Tunisian crochet bags. Bruges, ribbon lace, Tunisian knitting

Size

40 cm (length) x 30 cm (height)

You will need

Yarn (100% cotton, 212 m/25 g) in the following colors:
1 - ecru color;
2 - plum color;
3 - orange color;
4 - red color;
5 - turquoise color;
6 - blue color;
Tunisian hook No. 5.5; double-sided Tunisian hook No. 5.5; hook number 5.5.

patterns

Main pattern

Simple Tunisian knitting = 1 p. consists of 1 persons. and 1 out. R.

Plank pattern

Tunisian double crochet.
1st row: using a double-sided Tunisian crochet hook, as for simple Tunisian knitting, turn the work;
2nd row: attach the 2nd skein, close the item, as in simple Tunisian knitting; do not turn the work;
3rd row: knit with a thread from the 2nd skein, like the 1st row, turn the work;
4th row: knit with a thread from the 1st skein, like the 2nd row;
5th p.: knit with a thread from the 1st skein, like the 3rd p.

Always knit 2 p. in one direction.

Constantly repeat rows from 2nd to 5th.

Stripe alternation

Knit Tunisian crochet in 4 strands with the main pattern, while always using 2 strands of ecru color (color 1), and the other 2 strands alternate the next. way:
4 p. 1 thread of colors 3 and 5;
1 p. 1 thread of colors 3 and 6;
3 p. 1 thread of colors 2 and 5;
2 p. 1 thread of colors 3 and 2;
2 p. 1 thread of colors 3 and 4;
4 p. 1 thread of colors 4 and 6;
2 p. 1 thread of colors 5 and 6;
1 p. 1 thread of colors 5 and 3;

Sp. 1 thread of colors 2 and 6;
1 p. 1 thread of colors 5 and 6;

4 p. 1 thread of colors 5 and 2;
2 p. 1 thread of colors 4 and 6;
1 p. 1 thread of colors 2 and 4;
3 p. 1 thread of colors 3 and 2;
2 p. 1 thread of colors 4 and 3;
1 p. 1 thread of colors 4 and 6;
2 p. 1 thread of colors 5 and 4;
1 p. 1 thread of colors 5 and 2;
2 p. 1 thread of colors 2 and 6;
Z r. 1 strand of colors 3 and 2
= 46 p.

Knitting density

14.5 p. x 16.5 p. \u003d 10 x 10 cm, connected with the main pattern in 4 threads with Tunisian crochet No. 5.5.

Completing of the work

Front side

Dial 60 in. n. in 4 strands with Tunisian crochet (= 2 strands of ecru and one strand of colors 3 and 5 each)
and knit the main pattern with alternating stripes.

Then knit in 4 threads with ecru color 4 p. pattern for the bar and another 1 p. Art. b. n.

back side

Knit like front side.

Assembly

Fold the front and back sides inside out and tie both parts together 1 next to st. b. n. color 1 in 4 strands.

For pens, dial with color 1 in 4 threads of 5 ch. and knit 32 p. Art. b. n.

Sew the handles in the center from the inside to the upper edges of the front and back sides.

Photo: Verena magazine 2/2015

Tunisian knitting has a number of advantages. The most important of them is the high density of the resulting product, therefore it is very suitable for knitting bags, belts, blankets. You can read more about Tunisian knitting in my previous article "". And now we will learn how to crochet a bag using the Tunisian knitting technique.

To tie a bag with a long crochet hook using the Tunisian knitting technique, we need the following materials and tools:

Medium weight cotton yarn (125m/50g)

Hook for Tunisian knitting No. 3

Pin for open loops

2 pieces of bamboo handles measuring 20 x 12.5 cm

8 cm white rigid pad 90 cm wide

2 red faceted beads of various shapes

Main pattern. Simple Tunisian knitting. You can see more details about this knitting method.

How to crochet the bottom of a bag with Tunisian crochet:

Run the initial chain of 25 air loops and knit 56 rows (Fig. e-h).

How to knit the front side of the bag.

Attach the thread to the longitudinal side of the bottom and pull out 58 loops, while to obtain a clear outer contour, insert the hook not into the loop, but according to the picture. O.

In the first 16 rows at the beginning of the row after the 2nd loop and at the end of the row before the last 2nd loop, add 1 loop each, figure k= 90 loops. From the 17th to the 45th row, knit without increments. In the 46th row for the 1st pointed part, knit 37 loops, bind off the middle 16 loops and knit the 2nd pointed part on the remaining 37 loops.

Leave the loops of the 1st part on the pin. On the loops of the 2nd part, knit as follows: from the 47th row in the next 14 rows at the beginning of the row after the 2nd loop and at the end of the row before the last 2nd loop, reduce 1 loop each (figure j) = 9 loops. On these loops, knit another 13 rows. Finish the first part in the same way. Also complete the back side of the bag.

How to knit the side part of the bag with Tunisian knitting

Attach the thread to the short side of the bottom, see diagram o, and knit on 25 loops as described for the front side. In the 2nd row at the beginning of the row after the 2nd loop and at the end of the row before the last 2nd loop, decrease 1 loop each (figure j), decrease repeat 7 more times in each 2nd row = 9 loops. From the 17th to the 45th row, knit on 9 loops.

Knit the second side piece in the same way.

Sew the side pieces to the front and back sides.

How to crochet a bag valve with Tunisian crochet

Attach the thread to the edge of the back side between the pointed parts and knit on the middle 16 loops. In the 21st row for the buttonhole, skip the middle 4 loops and make 4 yarn over them (figure n1). Row finish according to the drawings n2 And n3. 5 rows from buttonhole * in the next both rows, decrease 1 loop on both sides, knit the next row without reductions. repeat from * until all stitches have been reduced.

The final stage of knitting a bag with a Tunisian crochet

Iron the part of the gasket measuring 20.5 x 6 cm on the wrong side of the bottom. For belt loops, fold the strips in half, turning inward, and sew. Insert handles. Cotton thread sew in the middle at a distance of 4.5 cm from the top edge of the bag 1 large bead as a button. Attach an icicle-shaped bead to the end of the valve.

This is how we got an interesting and functional bag, crocheted using the Tunisian knitting technique.

Ribbon lace.My master class on request.

Very beautiful vintage ribbon lace.
But many cannot make out his scheme. And so, having received numerous letters with questions, I decided to link the sample with step-by-step photos. I post my small master class.
I hope it will be understandable to everyone.

Getting started - a chain of 8 p., Connected into a ring with a half-column. Then st. without nak. we knit a circle of 5 rows. Knit in a circle, starting with a lifting loop, ending with a connecting half-column. Evenly add the missing number of columns.
1 circle-12 st
2cr-16 st
3cr-24 st
4cr-32 st
5cr-40 st. In this circle, except for the post. b. nak., the stems are also knitted. We knit according to this record:
1 lifting loop, 2 tbsp. without nak * 20 air. p., 1 half-column on the 11th loop from the hook, we get a loop-curl. Then we knit half-columns along the chain-stalk to a circle, 5 st without nak on the circle * Repeat between the stars, in total we get 8 stems with curlicue loops. At the end circle 2 tbsp. without nak and connect the circle with a half-column.

6 circle-6 air. pet. * 1 st single crochet in the middle of the stalk, 4 air. loops, 21 tbsp. with nak. in a loop-curl, 4 air, p., 1 st without nak. on the other side of the stem, 3 air. loops, 1 st with nak on the circle between the stalks, 3 air loops * Etc., we tie the stalks to the end of the circle. At the end of 1 st with nak in the middle of the first chain of 6 air. loops.

Please note that the mounts of the motifs are different. Vertically, the motifs are attached to the arch, horizontally - butt-to-leaf, and on the shoulders - also under the arch in all directions.
In order for knitting to be certainly continuous, you need to start from the lower left back motif, if you look at the product. Here I drew an arrow
Now let's get back to the diagram. Explanations:
1. If you knit the first (lower left) motive according to the scheme, then by knitting the second row, you find yourself in the gap between the petals. And in order to move to the next row, you need to tie as much as half of the petal, and we don’t need this extra thickening. So I suggest a little feint. Start the first motive with a chain of 10 air. loops (marked in black on the diagram) plus 6 for the center. Close 6 loops in a circle, knit 3 air. loops, fasten into the fourth loop of the chain. You get two chains together, which replace two columns. Then leave the remaining chain of 6 loops hanging to the right and knit the first row according to the scheme (yellow arrow). For the last arch of the first row, knit 5 loops and close in the last loop of the dangling chain (pink arrow). You find yourself in the middle of the petal, from where it will be convenient to go to the last row later.
2. In the last row of the first motive, knit two ears along the blue arrow. Closing the chain of the last ear in the middle of the petal, go to the next motif. The transition chain is marked in dark blue. For the transition chain, knit 9 air. loops - half of the arch of the first and second motives (on the diagram - type letter P between the motives) plus 15 loops and plus 6 loops for the center. Knit the first row of the second motive as in the first motive - three air. fasten the loops into the fourth loop of the chain, then along the yellow arrow, for the last arch of the first row, knit 5 loops into the sixth loop of the chain (pink arrow). Then again, leave the chain on the right and tie the petals with columns along the yellow arrow. Knit half of the last petal like this - after knitting all the columns, knit one loop (pink arrow) and fasten it to the second loop of the chain. Next, knit 4 loops and fasten along the green arrow to the fifth loop of the arch of the previous motive. In this case, your motives will be connected by the 9th air. loops (letter P). Then knit along the blue arrow, fasten the ear - along the green, then again along the blue. Then move on to the next motive. So knit 8 motives.
3. Knit the last row of the eighth motive in the orange arrow. Having knitted the second ear, knit 4 air. loops and fasten in the middle of the letter P. Then again 4 loops, half of the ear, fastening to the previous ear (green arrow). And so, along the orange arrow, you knit the upper part of the motives to the first motive. Knit until where the orange arrow ends. Then follow the bright red arrow to go to the second row of motifs. Please note that the number of loops in the transition chain between rows will be less than along between motifs, since the fastening between the rows will be butt. Here, for the transition chain, you dial 15 air. loops and knit as before. Only in the last row knit one ear along the burgundy arrow, not forgetting to attach it to the lower motives (green arrow). Then again the transition to the next motive (bright red arrow - the transition chain). Knit in the same way as the first row, only in the second row you still knit attachments to the lower motives (green arrows). Only in the fourth motif of the second row, the fasteners will differ (marked with blue arrows) - under the arch. In the fifth fastening motif as in the fourth. The remaining three motives are like the first three.
4. Return along the purple arrow, not forgetting to knit the bindings.
5. Next, knit two rows of four motifs, and in the fourth motif, in both cases, knit fastenings under the arch. Then knit two more rows of 8 motifs (in the fourth and fifth motifs for fastening under the arch).
6. Turn the knitting 90 degrees and follow the brown arrow (in the diagram on the left) to finish the left edge ..
Uhhh... already tired. I hope I explained clearly. (I save all the comments of JULIA. NGraf)


Girls, why do the Japanese have such schemes that are not Russian, everything is from right to left or are they all left-handed

To make the motive look more like an asterisk, three air. the loops that are needed for the connection do not need to be knitted. Instead, you need to knit three air. loops in the middle of the petal (indicated below by burgundy arrows) When you return, knitting the upper part of the motifs along the red arrow, knit a chain of 8 air at the junction. loops (their number may be different, you need to see how many loops you need so that the canvas lies flat and does not tighten anywhere), then close 4 more loops in a circle (red arrow to the center between the motifs), then 16 loops (8-there, 8- back) along the purple arrow, then 16 - along the green and 16 - along the blue, and at the end 8 - along the red. Received this type of cross. Continue to knit, not forgetting to attach to the ears of this cross in the right places.
In principle, this cross can be connected from any junction of motifs. I hope it helped.

http://club.osinka.ru/topic-20021?&start=1665
(I save all the comments of JULIA. NGraf)

Cambalina, your motive can be connected without interruption, but .... Firstly, it is large, and secondly, it is very openwork. It has a lot of arches from the air. loops. And if you knit without interruption, then the transition chain will be very long and you will need to climb many loops, which means that some arches will be thickened and will catch your eye. And the product itself will lose tenderness and delicacy. And if, God forbid, you make a mistake, then you will have to dissolve a lot. Therefore, I advise you to tie the motifs separately, but without the last row, and then tie them with the last row without interruption. Kill three birds with one stone - firstly, you don’t need to sew, secondly, tie everything with one thread and, thirdly, hide the tips of the campaign. If you want, I can draw a wiring diagram for you.


The black arrow marks the beginning. Knit three sides, fasten the last arch of the third side with two double crochets to the right place of the next motive. Next, knit the second motive, attaching to the first. Attachment points are marked with green dashes. The principle of fastening is half an arch, fastening to the previous motive, half an arch, double crochets to the current motive, etc. Kind of a zigzag. Knit on the purple arrow. Knit the upper part of this row of motifs along the orange arrow simply with arches, without attaching anywhere. Go to the second row of motives. The diagram is drawn for a flat canvas, so half-motifs are shown in the second row. If you need a round canvas, then there will be no half-motif with the number 1, but there will be a whole motif on the left in the second row. Knit along the orange arrows, to the place indicated by the red type "asterisk", in this place you knit air. loop half of the arch and fasten along the red arrow, so three times and again you get to this place from where you started, then you knit the fastening to the lower motive and further along the arrow. This "feint" is needed so that there are no holes in the corners. You tie the semi-motive on the right with single crochets. If you have a round canvas, then the second and all even rows will be shifted to the left. Well, follow the arrows. When everything is knitted, turn the fabric 90 degrees and knit the left side - in the case of a flat fabric, or wrap the fabric so that the right side is on top of the left and knit the left side, attaching to the right - in the case of a round fabric. Good luck.


It seems to me that this tunic is not entirely knitted, but cut from a knitted fabric. Moreover, the armhole is lowered, but not framed. Here I drew an arrow
And here is the side view here and the side seam is visible. Something tells me that you will not cut the knitted fabric.
And if you want the tunic to be in shape, then you need to change the hook number. Those. let's say you knitted on the hips with number 3, the next row should be knitted with number 2.5, and even the waist line - with number 2 or 2.25. Need to try. Tie the motifs with different hooks and measure the length of the motif. Well, count it.
And in order to tie the armhole honestly, make a pattern of the armhole line and the line of the armhole of the sleeve and apply it to the knitted fabric. And knit motifs according to the pattern, somewhere in half, somewhere without a quarter, somewhere without an eyelet.

Here are very rough armhole lines in red and sleeves in blue.



Knit the first motive from ear to ear along the blue arrow. Having connected half of the right upper ear of the first motive, go to the next motive, for this you gain 18 air. loops plus 6 loops for the center. The transition chain is marked in dark blue in the diagram. Knit the last row of the motif along the blue arrow, remembering to attach to the previous motif in the places marked with green dashes. Having connected half of the upper right ear of the second motive, go to the next motive. And so on until the desired length. Come back, knitting the upper quarter in the orange arrow. Having connected half of the upper left ear of the first motive, go to the next row of motives. The transition chain is marked in yellow. Knit the second row of motifs as the first, not forgetting to knit the fasteners. Knit along the pink arrow (although it is not very visible, here I stratified with color), return - along the burgundy one.

Here she is
Small, really. Copy to your computer and enlarge. The lifting chain is marked in black. Knit the last row along the blue arrows, the transition chain is indicated in bolder blue. Come back - on the red arrows. Go to the second row, the transition chain is highlighted in bold red. Come back - on the purple arrows. Mounting points are marked in green. True, I have not seen the product, so I doubt that the motifs are attached in the middle of the side, it seems to me that they should be attached only by the ears. But in the middle I drew fasteners just in case.




Explanations:
The first motif is the bottom left. The lifting chain is marked in black. Knit a motif, knit the last row of the motif (in your case, it is a pico harness) along the blue arrows to point 1. Ie. the lower part of the motive turns out to be tied, but the upper one does not. At point 1, go to the next motive, for this you knit 3 air. loops (half of the "pikoshka" of this motive) plus 15 air. loops (transition chain) plus air. loops for the central circle (most likely there are 4 of them). Total 22 loops. The transition chain is highlighted in blue. Knit the second motif, weaving the transition chain into it or climbing it if necessary. Knit the last row along the blue arrows to point 2. Etc. to the required length. Knit the last motif in the row completely. And on the orange arrow you begin to knit the last row of all already connected motifs. At point 3, go to the second row of motifs. Again cast on 22 stitches for the transition chain (marked in orange) and knit the motif. The green arrow indicates the place of attachment to the bottom row of motifs. Knit to point 4, here you need to tie a "snowflake". Dial 2 air. loops - half a pico plus 25 air. loops plus 4 loops - central. Total 31 loops. Knit a "snowflake" along the red arrows, not forgetting to knit the bindings marked with green arrows. Having connected the "snowflake" completely, you get to the place where you started knitting it and continue to knit the last row of the motive to point 5. Then again go to the next motive. Knit, not forgetting to knit the fasteners, to point 6. Here again you knit a "snowflake", etc. Having knitted to the required length, you return, knitting the last row of motives, along the purple arrow. And so on to the desired height. When you have knitted the entire fabric, turn the knitting 90 degrees and knit the left side. Something like this.

I chose a motif of 6 central loops and 18 columns with crochets around. It is clear that you can choose your own number of loops and columns. On the left, the red dash indicates the lifting loops. We knit along the blue arrow, for the transition we collect 3 air. loops plus 6 center. loops. We knit the motifs marked with numbers 1, 2, 3 and 4 completely, returning to the same place from which we started knitting this motif. Then again follow the blue arrow. Please note that due to the specifics of the location, the motives do not fit in half, but a little more, and in some places - a little less. The number of columns for this "more" and "less" will need to be calculated empirically. Having connected the desired length, we return along the red arrow. In the place where the arrow leads to the center of the motives, we knit 5 air. loops plus 4 central loops, then we knit around these 4 loops 7 "petals" out of 10 air. loops each, then another 5 air. loops and we get to the place where we started knitting the connecting motif. In the diagram, this motif (asterisk) is indicated by orange dashes. Next, we knit along the red arrow, not forgetting to attach to the asterisk in the places indicated by green dashes. We pass to the second row. We knit along the purple arrow, we return along the brown one. I think this diagram will be useful to someone.

Girls, I came up with another pattern for knitting a stole from the previous post. Seems simpler to me. I even wanted to delete the previous post, but then I thought that what is simple for me will seem difficult to someone and vice versa. Therefore, let there be two schemes. Some will like one, some the other.

Beginning of knitting - 4 air. we close the loops in a circle, 5 air. loops, knit in the blue arrow, i.e. we knit the whole circle and return back to the 5th air. loops. Then along the red arrow, again we knit the whole circle and back. Then blue. Here we knit two circles in succession (first half of one, then the whole second, then again half of the first) and return again. Next, the orange arrow, purple, then go to the next motive along the brown arrow. Further along the red, blue, orange, purple and brown arrows. We tied the desired length, we return along the pink arrow, then along the yellow, lilac, pink again. Returning to the very first motive, we go to the second row along the green arrow. Further on the drawing. Where the circle is already connected - we attach to it and return to the center, where it is not connected - we untie it and again return to the center. Please note that when knitting circles, you must not forget to attach to the previous circle. Something like this . I hope it's understandable.



Lift loops are marked in black. The last row of the motif (single crochet with picot) is knitted along the orange arrow. Having reached the transition point, knit an incomplete pico - 2 air. loops plus 14 air. transition loops plus 6 air. loops for the center. mug. Knit the entire motif, the last row - again along the orange arrow, not forgetting to attach to the previous motif (attachment points are marked in green). Knit the required number of motifs in length. Return on the blue arrow. Move to the second row. Be careful in the second row there are a lot of attachment points. And then follow the arrows of different colors. I specifically marked three rows of motifs so that you imagine that knitting is not even, there will be a shift in motifs. When you knit the required number of motifs in height, close the left edge of the motifs along the burgundy arrow. If you need to close the canvas into a pipe, at the time of return (burgundy arrow), attach to the rightmost motifs of the canvas. Good luck

Blue color indicates the lifting loops in the first motive. We knit in the green arrow. In the course of knitting, we knit the "ear" - we knit 5 air. loops, a circle of 4 air. loops (I saw that there is a circle in the photo of the bag in this place), a column with 4 crochets attached to the right place and then carefully return 5 air. loops. Mounting points are marked in blue. To move to the next motive, we dial 17 air. loops plus 6 loops for a circle. If necessary, in the course of knitting, we climb along the already connected transition loops. We knit to the desired length. We return to the red arrow. We knit the second row of motifs along the purple arrow, we return along the orange one. Do not forget to tie the "ears" and fasteners in the right places.

Explanations
1. Knit a motive, in the last row you knit 10 arches
2. Knit 5 air. loops (two - half of the 11th arch, one - the connection loop and two more - half of the arch of the next motive) plus 15 air. loops and plus 5 air. loops for the central circle. Total 25 loops.
3. Knit the second motive. When you knit the penultimate row, a chain of 25 air. loops should be reduced to 8 loops. Here you need to knit three double crochets with one vertex. You knit two lifting loops, one unfinished double crochet and knit all this pleasure through the third loop of eight one loops, then 2 air. loops, attach to the arch of the first motive, 2 air. loops, 3 double crochets with one top, 2 air. loops and again fastening to the arch of the first motive, 2 air. loops and further according to the scheme.
4. Knit 8 more arches, and then see point 2. .
5. Knit, repeating points 2 to 4, to the length you need along the blue arrow.
6. Come back, knitting the upper parts of the motifs, along the orange arrow
7. Go to the next row along the red arrow, return along the brown one.
The green dashes indicate the places where the motifs are attached.
Good luck.
SINCERELY , T.E. NATALIA GRAF.