A yellow jacket will be the best addition to your wardrobe. Remarkable people style: Vladimir Mayakovsky

The capital of the Republic of Tatarstan has lost the main platform for underground and rock bands. Muscovites came there to open an anti-cafe

Today in Kazan, on the site of the once cult institution “Mayakovsky. Yellow Jacket” opens the Mayakovsky loft, a “creative space for young people,” as stated in the press release of the event. As BUSINESS Online found out, the owner of Kofta, Andrey Pokrovsky, due to unprofitability, leased the club to a Moscow company, which decided to reformat the once main rock venue in the capital of Tatarstan. About the rise and fall of the legend of the end of the 2000s - in the material of our newspaper.

Today in Kazan, on the site of the once cult institution “Mayakovsky. Yellow jacket" opened loft "Mayakovsky"

"In fact, the club lived almost all the time on subsidies from third-party business"

Concert promoters working in Kazan have more headaches - the Mayakovsky club is closing. Yellow jacket. However, in this case we are talking about parting with a real legend of the city's concert life. Over the 10 years of its existence (in April, the Yellow Jacket celebrated its first serious anniversary), this site has become a cult in its own way.

The reason for the closure of the club, in which the legendary Russian rock bands once performed, is banal - unprofitability. About this "BUSINESS Online" was told by the owner of the institution Andrey Pokrovsky, whom our correspondent found dismantling the sign of the institution. “Upcoming concerts have been cancelled. We phoned everyone, apologized, settled everything with those with whom there were some money moments, ”he said.

According to Pokrovsky, concerts held several times a month did not bring profit, and the rest of the time nothing happened in the institution. “In fact, the club lived almost all the time on subsidies from third-party businesses,” our interlocutor admitted. According to one of the businessmen, whose office is located nearby, one of the key roles in the sad fate of "Mayakovsky" was played by the parking lot, which was closed by the nearby construction site. As it turned out, in September, one metropolitan company contacted the owner of the Yellow Jacket and offered to rent an unprofitable club. The landlord refused to provide details about the Muscovites and the terms of the deal. “An offer was received, we did not refuse,” Pokrovsky replied laconically.

The reason for the closure of the club, in which the legendary Russian rock bands once performed, is banal - unprofitability

"BUSINESS Online" found out that the premises for its activities were acquired by the company "Union Group". Her areas of interest include IT and the development of cultural spaces in the format of anticafe and coworking - the latter, however, is a somewhat new activity for them. Of similar completed projects, Union Group has a loft and a time cafe in Samara called Concrete Decorative Pot. Mayakovsky will be reformatted according to the same principle. Yellow jacket, which will now be called the Mayakovsky loft.

The new tenants decided not to drag it out and sent out press releases the day before, according to which the opening of the loft will take place tonight. “Mayakovsky creative space will become a new center of attraction for the creative youth of Kazan. Here, young people will be able not only to take part in creative events, but also to realize their own ideas, act as organizers and ideological inspirers of projects,” the press release says. Hard rock is not in the format of the new curators of the institution, student and non-alcoholic events will be held here. Entrance to the territory will be free.

THE TOILET IN WHICH MAYAKOVSKY IS READING

“Of course, it’s hard that this happened, we worked for 10 years, we lasted so long. They could still, of course, hold out, but it was already hard to pull the whole thing. A very big responsibility in organizing concerts is a very costly industry, ”Pokrovsky shared.

“When it all started, in 2007, the city basically needed such a platform,” recalls the first art director of the restaurant-club in a conversation with BUSINESS Online. Alisa Vyatkina, whose name is associated with the heyday of the "Yellow Jacket". - Not a single club at that time was engaged in the importation of third-party artists, including foreign ones. All this happened within the disco framework, but there were no club concerts in Kazan. Perhaps this was the reason for the success. It is necessary to add here an unusual interior, design and in general the general concept of the institution itself. The clubs "Boomerang" and "Wings" in one person at that time sunk into oblivion, but there was still a narrow format.

Initially, it was assumed that Mayakovsky would be a pretentious restaurant for wealthy people. However, everything was decided by chance: a concert of the Va-Bank group was accidentally arranged there, and the owners of Kofta realized that concerts could be held indoors. An unusual interior, good cuisine at that time, an intriguing name - all this played on the institution. Even going to the toilet was a real highlight here. There, poems by Vladimir Mayakovsky were constantly heard from the loudspeaker.

At that time, Kazan was hungry for a party place that could unite a creative diverse audience. For example, Sergei Shnurov, then having just dissolved Leningrad, he gave his first concert in Kazan in the Kofta, having arrived there with his Ruble. And when Lyapis Trubetskoy called in the capital of Tatarstan, the club could not accommodate everyone at all. In addition, various local festivals began to take place there - from Harokat to a concert in support of the fight against diabetes, where local groups could perform. Around the institution formed its own party. According to the recollections of one of the leaders of the club, sometimes it came to the ridiculous: one of the businessmen came to agree on a corporate party, made a deposit, but, seeing that the Goths were going to the concert, took the deposit and abandoned this idea.

Such youth activity could not pass by the authorities. In 2008, the management of the institution received a prosecutor's order on the inadmissibility of violations federal law"On Counteracting Extremist Activities". It seemed suspicious to prosecutors that Mayakovsky was gathering people who were members of informal youth movements, but simply Goths, punks and skinheads, to which the club employees then rightly noted that all of the above informals simply could not gather in one place, otherwise a scuffle would begin. It seems that the claims of the authorities were limited to this.

In the early years of Mayakovsky's work, this was the main and, perhaps, the only place for non-commercial music and hangouts for the corresponding audience.

“THE WHO HAVE ALREADY ATTENDED THIS CLUB, TODAY HAVE ALREADY GROWN OUT OF THE “JACKET”

In the early years of Mayakovsky's work, this was the main and, perhaps, the only place for non-commercial music and hangouts for the corresponding audience. Musicians of all formats and ages performed there: from representatives of the Kazan indie scene to such artists as Auktyon, Kalinov Most, Brazzaville, Mine Surveyor Kunst, Billy's Band, John Forte, Alina Orlova, Sergey Babkin .. .

“At that time, the most underground, creative, interesting youth of our city gathered in the club. Over the course of a year or two, the public simply began to trust us, even if we brought unknown musical groups. People, not knowing what they sing and what kind of music they play, just came, trusting our taste. And there was a certain intimacy in this, because we knew our regular guests by sight. And we are still friends with many, ”continues Vyatkina.

The club also gathered Tatar contemporary performers under its roof, such as Zulya Kamalova and Mubai. Even the prima of the Tatar pop scene came to the concert of the latter Hania Farhi, the club format of parties for her then also turned out to be no stranger.

Nevertheless, the club gradually began to lose its popularity among the Kazan public. Leapfrog with constantly changing art managers only contributed to this. Concerts of visiting stars of the alternative scene became less and less, there were events of a local format. It was felt that the club needed an update, however, what it should be, the owners of the institution, apparently, could not understand.

“Unfortunately, everything has its beginning and end. Probably, the fact that Mayakovsky was not updated, no rebranding was carried out, influenced its closure. Yes, and those who once visited this club, today have already grown out of "Kofta". Hopefully there will be new site, but now, it seems to me, the public is fed up and a lot of establishments have opened. And perhaps there is no such need in club concerts. Everything goes into a smaller format or a larger one,” says the first art director of the Yellow Jacket.

"THE PLACE WAS DEFINITELY SIGNIFICANT AND THE ONLY ONE IN ITS NICHE"

BUSINESS Online experts are unanimous: the closure of the Yellow Jacket is a serious blow to the concert life of Kazan.

Leonid Baryshev- Head of the tour and concert agency "ArtOtdel":

- I'm actually very sorry that the "Yellow Jacket" closed, because the underground bands, rock bands that cannot afford large halls, in fact, were there, performed there. Young people came there and listened to these commands and spent time there. And I don't even know where they'll go now... It's not clear where. Because there are no sites in the city for them. That is, we do not have such clubs with a capacity of 400-600 seats, with equipment, with sound, a stage. For example, in "Salt", where the audience of similar tastes can gather, it simply does not fit.

Anton Salakaev- leader of VIA "Volga-Volga":

— Over the past decade, or even more, this is one of the best venues, which has been promoted by the performance of various interesting underground rock bands and festivals. Frankly speaking, there was not the best sound in the city, and this is probably due to the configuration of the club itself, but the club played a serious role in the life of Volga-Volga. This year we are celebrating our 20th anniversary and are making small video sketches about the iconic places that influenced our development: of course, Mayakovsky is also mentioned there.

I not only played there myself, but also often attended concerts of bands that I love. "Auktyon" and "Lyapis Trubetskoy" I saw on these sites. Kofta has always had a close, kind, homely, I would say even kitchen, atmosphere, in contrast to large venues. And it will be difficult to quickly find an alternative to Mayakovsky in Kazan in the near future. Everything was there: the location, and a good stage for small rock concerts. Just in last years the guys needed a good manager who would continue to bring interesting teams. It seems to me that this is a miscalculation in marketing. But on this moment I do not see a serious alternative to this site. There are clubs that could take on the functions of Mayakovsky, but so far they do not have such zeal. These are either commercial establishments, the owners of which think only about profit, or these are clubs, semi-restaurant options that seem to position themselves as alternative location, but did nothing to gather young teams under their roof.

As long as there are young people who play and listen to rock, one cannot say that this direction is dead. It is clear that rock cannot fight rap battles, it has faded into the background. Maybe as an ideology this movement is not so strong. But because of the closure of this kind of sites, rock will die. Nevertheless, in Kazan there is a large army of people who want to go to live performances of bands. If one of the owners of the premises would contact me in terms of assistance in promoting a new place, I would gladly give a couple free concerts.

Dmitry Zeleny— art director of Rockstar Bar (former art director of Mayakovsky):

- I worked at Mayakovsky in 2012-2014. The closure of the institution is a tragedy for Kazan, because the place, of course, was iconic and the only one in its niche. There is no alternative to the Yellow Jacket in Kazan. There were no suitable venues where you can hold a concert of a group gathering up to 500 people before. Now, as a promoter, I am approached by groups that had concerts scheduled at Mayakovsky, but I simply cannot physically make them at my Rockstar Bar.

Kazan lost (it is not known for how long) many artists who simply have nowhere else to play in the city. Some venues are too big, some bars are too small. When something will open and who will do it, I can’t even imagine. There is, of course, the Hermitage, Korston, but, let's say, I can't make a concert by the Distemper group in the Hermitage because the venue is too expensive to rent. As a result, the concert will not only be unprofitable, I will simply go into a monstrous minus. And in general, doing a concert for 250-300 people in a hall for 5 thousand people is ridiculous and ugly.

Not only underground bands performed at Mayakovsky. Various performers came - from rap to hard rock. Who hasn't performed there since the existence of the club - from monsters like "25/17", "King and Jester" and "Lyapis Trubetskoy" to unknown underground poets! It seems to me that the shortage of such places is explained by the fact that Kazan is not a fatal city. More than once I came across a situation when they organized a concert of some group in Kazan and the next day, as part of the tour, she went, say, to Izhevsk, where the population is half that in the capital of the Republic of Tatarstan. But at the same time, the audience at the concert for any group was two to three times larger than ours. Moreover, they didn’t make any posters there, but there was Our Radio. Now we have this radio station, but the club is no more.

Evgeny Vasiliev— founder of the concert agency MAD DOD Concert Agency:

- For the underground, there was and is a tiny Amnesia club, but Mayakovsky is still more serious for groups. In general, the organizers of mid-level concerts have nothing to do, because there is no alternative venue for them. It is necessary to build a new institution for 600-800 people, with good sound and light. And this requires serious investments - I think about 10 million rubles, in order to do everything well. But the problem is not even in money, but in the fact that "business in Russian" is counting on a quick return. That is, after investing, everyone wants to quickly get super profits. This story won't work with a club.

19-05-2002

“Let's throw Pushkin off the ship of modernity,” Mayakovsky urged at poetry evenings at the Polytechnic Museum in Moscow touching verses to Pushkin with the most respectful Alexander Sergeevich, allow me to introduce myself. Mayakovsky". Yes, he sincerely signed the manifesto of the futurists, which really contained a call to “throw Pushkin, Dostoevsky, Tolstoy ... from the steamboat of our time.”

But this was not at Soviet power, and even before the First World War, the tone in the movement of futurists - professional shocking showmen, was set by completely different people (Burliuk, Kruchenykh). Young Mayakovsky in a yellow jacket was then the same futurist as Picasso later was a communist, i.e. quite decorative.

With this yellow sweater, such a story happened. Mayakovsky, everyone knows, had two oddities in life:

1. He was extremely passionate and was ready to play any conceivable and inconceivable games, most often cards: poker, "thousand", point, fool - if there were no cards, he played chess, dice, checkers, spillikins, dominoes, ping-pong, billiards, twigs, in a Chinese game incomprehensible to anyone old game ma-jong, bought in Mostorg - he always had a roulette in the form wrist watch, he often twirled it just like sometimes Franciscan monks sort out a rosary, thinking about the eternal - even, just walking down the street, he made a bet with another random companion - guessed the number of cabbies they met and won the one whose guessed number was closer to real - or just arguing over who is louder and more likely to spoil the air ...

2. He was painfully clean, tried to take a bath and change shirts every day, miniature soap dishes and napkins were constantly in the pockets of his suits and coats to wash his face and hands whenever there was at least some opportunity for this - whether at home whether at a party, on a train, in a restaurant...

Dirty, yellow, clearly women's jacket does not fit into the wardrobe of the poet. Nevertheless, numerous witnesses saw Mayakovsky in this jacket several times at public poetry evenings at Moscow State University, in the hall of the Conservatory, in the Palace of Culture of the Russian railway. This jacket was even written in the press.

The matter was simple. On one of his trips to Europe, Mayakovsky met Gorky in Capri and showed him his poems.

Gorky received the new Russian poet with great enthusiasm. They spent 8 days together.

But, as it turned out later, they talked not only about literature. Gorky, living in Italy, became more addicted to roulette than to his favorite cocaine. Every Thursday he hired a fishing scow and, putting on a wide fisherman's straw hat, went straight to Monaco for a couple of days, to the nearest casino. There he squandered his next fee for the "Song of the Petrel", victoriously distributed in the most unthinkable translations in almost all countries of stupid aging Europe.

Within a couple of hours after they met, the future great writers learned the most important thing about each other and, trying not to waste time, began to play. We played poker for high stakes. In the first two days, Mayakovsky lost a lot, he even sent to buy a pistol in order to pay in full.

But on the third day, fortune turned its back on Alexei Maksimych. He lowered the winnings and began to hand over his. On the eighth day (Mayakovsky's Italian visa was ending)

Gorky decided to stake his mistress Fanya Shub. Mayakovsky won. But he did not take the elderly woman. He took off all her clothes and returned them to Gorky. He threw away the woman's junk, leaving only a yellow jacket.

Returning to Russia, for the first six months at poetic evenings he wore only this jacket. Newspapers vied with each other to report on the unthinkable outfit of the futurist. So the male Mayakovsky demonstrated to the male Gorky his victory over him.

Gorky in Capri, reading the Russian press, tore the hair on his head.

The dishonored Fanya Shub left Gorky and soon married the KGB agent Zorya Volovich.

In 1930, she was arrested by the French police in connection with the high-profile case of the mysterious disappearance of the White Guard General Kutepov. Zorya managed to steal her from the prison hospital and safely take her away from France. They appeared in Moscow at the beginning of 1931. Zorya, with the rank of major, worked in the Operations Department
e OGPU. One of his most important tasks was to change the eagles on the Kremlin towers to five pointed stars. In 1937, Zorya Volovich and Fanya Volovich were executed as French spies.

The yellow jacket also did not survive. Mayakovsky's poems about that successful win in Capri have been preserved:

Oh! This night!!

Despair tightened tighter and tighter himself. From my crying and laughter
The muzzle of the room squinted with horror
And the face, carried away from you, rose up as a vision,
You blazed with your eyes on his carpet,
As if dreaming of some new Bialik
The dazzling queen of Zion of the Jews. II

Do you know why, by order of the People's Commissar Lunacharsky, the operetta by Franz Lehar was removed from the repertoire “ Yellow jacket”, which was a huge success?

The libretto for the operetta, composed based on the events you describe by the money-hungry Burevestnik, Lehar received just from Fanny and in the version that you outlined. In fact, Mayakovsky failed to get rid of her, and even more so to take away her lucky yellow clip from the favorite of all literary Europe.

Bored with the monotony of spending time in the villa and the miserliness of its owner, Fanny at first decided to simply go to Moscow, but on the spot she quickly figured out the revolutionary situation and since then has not parted with the poet, who at first glance seemed promising to her.

Extremely much, not to say everything, she did for his career.

We note only this fact: only Lunacharsky trusted her to accompany Mayakovsky on foreign business trips. During one of them, in Paris, she met with Lehar.

The international adventurer at that time already bore the surname Kaplan and lived in the same apartment with Osya, Lilya and Volodya in Merzlyakovsky Lane, where the State Museum of V.V. Mayakovsky. Located on the departmental squares of a well-known institution on the Lubyanka, this museum keeps many secrets. The photograph of Fanny R. Kaplan is also on display in the permanent exhibition, and, by the way, not even one.

Yes, but Kaplan's photographs, as you know, have not been preserved, you say. Indeed, even her well-known portrait by Kazimir Malevich, after the well-known events, the Chairman of the Cheka, comrade Dzerzhinsky, smeared it with his own hand black paint. The point here is this: Fanny Kaplan had a striking portrait resemblance to Vladimir Mayakovsky. Unlike the ill-healthy and shy young man She had a thunderous voice and offhand manner.

Having vast experience in communicating with almost all the outstanding writers of Europe of that time (among them, besides Gorky, we also note H. J. Wells), she did not particularly talk with the young poet.

Locking him in the apartment, she went to parties, and when she came from them, sometimes midnight after midnight, she strictly counted the lines written. Being drunk, she could beat. It was during this period that the poet switched to the inexplicable style of writing poetry with the famous Mayakov stairs.

However, for the sake of justice, it should be noted that she, apparently, beat Max and Hera, whom she did not abandon and regularly visited one in London, the other in Capri - only this can explain the simultaneous flowering of the talents of these three and a number of Soviet and foreign classics .

Fanny's diverse talents have always been highly valued in the Cheka. The rest is public knowledge. During a rally at the Michelson factory, the Latvian riflemen let the revolutionary poet see the leader without hindrance ... Subsequently, for this operation, Fanny, on the proposal of the Cheka, was awarded one of the first Orders of Lenin, and immediately after the action she was urgently transferred to another area of ​​​​work: it was time to return to her homeland from - beyond the boundaries of the Petrel of the Revolution. The yellow jacket was handed over to a special museum, the play of the same name was removed from the repertoire, the poet stopped performing at the Polytechnic University, wrote a long poem “Vladimir Ilyich Lenin”, and shot himself a few years later. The following verses were found on his body, for some reason they were no longer written in a “ladder” at all.

Bourgeois, bourgeois, rednecks, fraera,

Hurry up hide fat body in the cliffs!

Freedom, freedom, eh-eh without a cross!

So let the storm come on stronger, fuck!

Eh-eh, dance... III

There is also such a version. The main role in this performance was to be played by the then wife of the People's Commissar Natalya Aleksandrovna Rosenel, but the part of the "Yellow Jacket" was written for contralto, while Rosenel had a lyric-dramatic sop
early. Lunacharsky wrote official notes (not musical) to Lehar, demanding to change some notes (musical) and, at the same time, the interpretation of the operetta, but the fascist composer considered it below his dignity to answer the little bald communist minister of education. Then Lunacharsky ordered Prokofiev from abroad in order to change the contralto part to at least a coloratura mezzo-soprano. But nothing came of this either - the cunning Prokofiev used his visit for personal purposes, gave several concerts to the astonished public and fled back to Europe.

From Prokofiev's diary (publication prepared by D. Gorbatov):
"I am introduced to everyone, including several half-forgotten faces from the artistic world of pre-revolutionary times. Lunacharsky's wife, or rather one of the last wives, is a beautiful woman when viewed from the front, but much less beautiful when you look at her predatory profile She is an artist, and her last name is Rosanelle...
<-…>- We pass into another, small living room, furnished not without comfort.

Lunacharsky pulls out the first number of LEF - new magazine published by Mayakovsky.

LEF - means left front. Lunacharsky explains that Mayakovsky considers me a typical representative of the LEF.
It is all the more useful for you to listen, - he adds, - Mayakovsky's appeal, placed in this issue.
Then Lunacharsky, not without enthusiasm, reads Mayakovsky's letter to Gorky in verse very well. The writing is really sharp, and some of the formulas in the verses are just fine. Idea: why, they say, Alexei Maksimovich, when there is so much work in Russia, do you live somewhere in Italy?

Here we see Prokofiev's evidence that Mayakovsky, who had long ceased to wear a yellow jacket on public performance, continues to mock Gorky. And Lunacharsky, in the end, was simply faced with a choice - either to change his wife once again, or once again to make an operetta. The second option was less expensive.

Irina Sirotkina
What color is Mayakovsky's yellow jacket?

The fact that Mayakovsky is not a bronze monument from Triumphalnaya Square, but a living person with a strong and warm body and a normal desire to dress and decorate this body, was reminded to us by the exhibition “Mayakovsky's haute couture: the art of dressing”. The title-matryoshka consists of two parts: “Mayakovsky: Haute couture» — a chapter from the book by Larisa Kolesnikova (Kolesnikova 2008) 1 , who for many years was in charge of the Museum's memorial fund; “The Art of Dressing” is the name of the magazine designed by the artist Valentina Khodasevich.

Behind the glory of Mayakovsky as a poet, his first incarnation as an artist is forgotten. So, both in painting and in clothes he had excellent taste. And he knew how to create an image. He could, for example, take a yellow ribbon from his sister and tie it around his neck instead of a tie: “I never had a suit. There were two blouses - of the most vile kind. A tried and tested way is to decorate with a tie. No money. I took a piece of yellow ribbon from my sister. Tied up. Furor. This means that the most noticeable and beautiful thing in a person is a tie ”(“ I myself ”). Like a real artist, Mayakovsky wore bows of different colors and mufflers of black and yellow squares. On the self-drawn cover of his first poetry collection "I!" a bow adorns.

At the exhibition, I finally saw what shade Mayakovsky's famous yellow jacket was. This shade is warm, canary, or, in the words of the poet himself, the colors of the sunset:

I'll make myself black pants

Yellow jacket from three arshins of sunset.

The mother of the poet A.A. sewed a jacket from fabric with a black vertical stripe. Mayakovskaya. In a yellow jacket and top hat, Mayakovsky looked stunning - so much so that the police forbade him to perform in this jacket. The poet disguised himself: he came in a jacket, and before going on stage he changed into a jacket. "Veil Jacket" - Mayakovsky wanted to name the first collection of his poems. Fatovsky image gave him confidence in public speaking:

It's good when in a yellow jacket

the soul is wrapped up from the inspection!

The first tour of the Futurists - David Burliuk, Vasily Kamensky and Mayakovsky - owes much of its success to the yellow jacket. The futurists, according to Kamensky, received royalties for the evenings "shalya-pinskie". Gone are the days when Mayakovsky's only coat was donated by Burliuk. After the tour, a pink moire tuxedo with black satin lapels, a red velvet waistcoat appeared in the poet's wardrobe, shiny jacket, fashionable coat.

In the most lifeless post-revolutionary years, Mayakovsky knew how to maintain his life - on the Lubyanka, in a tiny room-boat, where a wardrobe trunk served him as a wardrobe. Only later, in the apartment on Gendrikovo, a solid wardrobe appeared, with a folding shelf and a shaving mirror. The cabinet is also at the exhibition, and next to it is a photograph of Mayakovsky shaving in front of this cabinet with a crazy look and straight razor in the hand. You involuntarily think about its end - and, as a defensive reaction, Mayakovsky's well-known joke pops up. Once he wanted to borrow a razor from his neighbors and was refused. "The razor is busy and will be busy for a long time," they told him unkindly. “It’s clear: you shave an elephant,” the poet snapped.

In the 1920s, together with the constructivist artists Alexander Rodchenko, Varvara Stepanova and Lyubov Popova, Mayakovsky worked on creating a new, Soviet way of life - beautiful, comfortable and mass-produced things. His older sister Lyudmila, who graduated from the Stroganov School, worked as a textile artist at the Trekhgornaya Manufactory and Krasnaya Roza factories. The exhibition has samples of her fabrics, as well as those of Popova and Stepanova; the latter are constructivist, an early version of op-art that arose much later. The LEF magazine edited by Mayakovsky also published theoretical articles on clothing (copies of the articles by Warst (Varvara Stepanova) “Costume today– overalls” and Osip Brik’s “From painting to chintz” are presented at the exhibition), and clothing models. In the exposition - two tracksuits Varvara Stepanova (reconstructed by N. Levit): red and white blouses, a skirt and shorts of constructivist forms, sewn from cheap calico, contrast sharply with Mayakovsky's solid wardrobe: an English cap, thin French shirts, a tweed coat. In 1927, he gave a lecture to the working people on the theme "Give a graceful life."

Some believe that Mayakovsky's "bourgeois" predilection for beautiful clothes and accessories instilled in the poet Lilya Brik, herself a fashionista and dandy. Because of this predilection, the proletarian poet subsequently gained the reputation of a "Soviet dandy." Of course, after meeting Lily in 1915, Mayakovsky's appearance changed: in a photograph with her, he looks in love, happy, and more elegant than ever. But elegance and artistry, as the exhibition once again convinces of this, was characteristic of the poet before, and much later, acquaintance with Lily. Having met with Mayakovsky, Theodore Dreiser wrote: “Dynamic, he looked like a boxer and dressed like an actor” (Kolesnikova 2008: 42). On the slender, athletic, plastic Mayakovsky, any clothes sat perfectly - and a blouse, and a tuxedo, and home jacket whom he especially loved. He did not share the elegance and convenience - and in clothes, and in shoes. The Dutch journalist Niko Rost met the poet on the Kurfürstendamm: “A free stance, reminiscent of a boxer, his figure was noticeable among pedestrians. He walked as wide as a sailor on land” (ibid.: 112). Together they went to buy Mayakovsky shoes. He chose sports shoes with thick soles - "strong as Russia" and turned out to be the most expensive. He generally had expensive tastes. But is good taste can be cheap?

order Moskvoshveya,

our country

rush

around your neck,

Mayakovsky wrote, but he continued to bring clothes for himself and outfits for Lily from abroad. By the way, a pair of shoes from the Weston company, brought from Paris, has been preserved. Shoes are like new. “The eternal thing,” Mayakovsky spoke of the Westons. Yes, they turned out to be eternal, but only because they were once on the feet of the poet. He himself, under any clothes, remained naked and free:

Let's rip off the nonsense of jackets and cuffs,

paint starched breasts under the shell,

bend the handle on a table knife,

and we'll all be at least for a day, but the Spaniards.

So that everyone, forgetting their northern mind,

loved, fought, worried.

the earth itself

call to the waltz!

Take the sky up again

invent new stars and expose,

so that, frantically scratching the roofs,

the souls of artists climbed into the sky.

Literature

Kolesnikova 2008- Kolesnikova L. Other faces of Mayakovsky. M., 2008.

Note

1. I would like to thank Yulia Nikolaevna Sadovnikova, head of the exhibition department of the Museum, for her help in preparing the review and for providing the photographs.

Vladimir Mayakovsky is one of the greatest poets of the revolutionary era and the king of outrageousness in Russia at the beginning of the 20th century. Some even call him the punk of his time. The expressive, satirical, topical work of the poet was inseparable from the way of life he led. A player, a rebel and a spendthrift, his eccentricity manifested itself in everything: in creativity, in love, in life, in appearance.

Mayakovsky did not recognize mediocrity in clothes, he dressed mainly abroad. He was one of the few representatives of Soviet art who managed to impress Yves Saint Laurent. The portrait of the poet hung in the house of the famous couturier, although they did not know each other.

Futurism yellow jacket

Ivan Bunin wrote about Mayakovsky: "Here is his famous yellow jacket and savage painted muzzle, but how evil and gloomy this muzzle is!" This item of the poet's wardrobe at one time gained fame no less than Audrey Hepburn's little black dress in the movie Breakfast at Tiffany's. In Russia at the beginning of the 20th century, clothes yellow color men did not wear, so the sight of Mayakovsky caused an extremely indignant reaction. The yellow jacket received attention from everyone around and even became part of numerous notes in the press.

Versace shirt, 50500 rubles (FarFetch)

Cane and flared coat

The poet preferred free ones to fitted coat models. He was very fond of a flared coat and often complemented the image with a cane. After the First World War, the cane ceased to be a popular attribute. men's suit, Mayakovsky continued to use it as an element of his style.

Coat Aquascutum Vintage, 17966 rubles (FarFetch)

Headwear: top hat, hat, flat cap

Mayakovsky preferred headdresses, both familiar to his contemporaries and rather outrageous. The last one is the cylinder. The image was often complemented by a bow tied around the neck and the already mentioned cane, which made him somewhat similar to Oscar Wilde from the world of the proletariat.

Cap York Hat Co, 2490 rubles (Code7)

Bright jackets

The poet did not ignore the color and pattern and, in addition to the yellow jacket, wore bright jackets and vests. At a tailor in Simferopol, for example, I made a pink jacket with black satin lapels. In addition to pink, there was also velvet red and checkered. Colored ties were also not alien to him.

Jacket Circle of Gentelmen, 30360 rubles (TsUM)

Pea coat

Pea coat has become another iconic thing for Mayakovsky. The poet was a popularizer of the emerging fashion trends, and the pea jacket at the beginning of the 20th century was just moving from the category of military to the category of everyday clothing.

trench coat Michael Kors, 30200 rubles (FarFetch)

Do not forget about the handmade squirrel, which the poet fed in the theater buffet with sweets that were scarce in those years. To please the image, he removed a tooth and cut his hair bald. Provocation, in the case of Mayakovsky, became the key to success.

If you want to add an extraordinary thing to your wardrobe that can “revive” any set of clothes for the fall-winter season, you can safely choose a yellow sweater for yourself. Such interesting detail wardrobe will be easy to combine with other things. So that you can see for yourself, let's figure out what to wear with a yellow sweater.

Who will suit the yellow sweater

Pullover yellow shade can look good on ladies with different type figures. When choosing such a thing, you should be guided by the following general patterns:

• If you have a “pear” figure, you should give preference to products with large viscous. Oversized products will look good on representatives of this type, in addition, they can afford models light colors, which will visually increase their breasts.

• Girls like " hourglass» You can wear all variations of this sweater, including products with various horizontal and vertical prints. You only need to make sure that the chosen thing goes well with other details of your image.

• Young ladies with an inverted triangle figure should stop at models from fine yarn. Fine cashmere products will look perfect on them, especially if they pick up a voluminous bottom for them - loose-fitting trousers or a flared skirt - any such decision will be really successful.

• Women with a "rectangle" figure should give preference to products with a vertical strip - they will visually lengthen the figure and make it slimmer. Representatives of this type should also be very careful with the question of what is best to wear a yellow sweater. They should combine such a wardrobe detail with straight skirts or trousers, in which case their figure will look quite harmonious.

• Young ladies with an "apple" figure should try on free models with interesting decorative elements in the chest and neck area. These will look the best on them.

Also, young ladies who choose such a sweater need to take into account their color type. So ladies with a cold skin tone should choose pale, slightly grayish shades of yellow, but any products of a saturated tone should be avoided. Also, representatives of the “winter” or “summer” color type should give preference not to classic sweaters, but to sweatshirts, under which you can wear a blue or green blouse that will look better with them. natural shade skin. But representatives of the "autumn" or "spring" type can choose different shades of yellow - from bright to muted colors - all of them will look quite harmonious on them.

Tips to help you choose fashion sweater by body type:

What colors go with yellow

Yellow things look good in combination with clothes. various shades. Most in harmony with this bright tone will look beige, all shades of grey, brown and of course black. Festive combinations with it can create and White color all shades. Use these combinations if you want to get a fairly restrained, concise look.

If we talk about more bright colors that can take place in such an image, then they include coral, blue, blue, purple. You can also experiment with a yellow-green combination in clothes - this option can be considered a classic. In addition, yellow is quite free to harmonize with various similar shades, including lemon and orange, if this color scheme suits you. Just don't forget to complement the image with neutral beige or black accessories, in which case it will look interesting and not too colorful.

Caution, however, should be exercised when choosing clothes with bright prints and accessories for yellow clothes. Such decisions are best avoided. An exception may be things with stripes, as well as small details of your image (for example, a handbag) with a pattern that has a complex print, always with yellow elements.

What to wear with a yellow sweater

Elegant Women's sweater bright color will go well with various details of your wardrobe. If you want to wear this item in style, you can use these combinations with it:

• Denim set. You can choose for such a combination in casual style as tight trousers, as well as currently popular boyfriend models or flared ones. A sweater for such a combination is better to choose a straight line. Also remember that the image in this style does not require catchy accessories: add earrings with yellow inserts to it, shoes on flat running brown, as well as a large bag to match such shoes.

• The combination of a sweater with a classic high collar and clothes in sports style. In this option, you can also use a sports-style coat and shoes like sneakers or sneakers, as in the photo. This is the only case when such a combination would be quite organic.

• Sets in boho style. In this case, it is advisable to combine a yellow sweater with straight wide colored skirts, flat shoes, and you can also add a fur vest to your bow. The image can be completed with bright ethnic accessories: wooden beads, beaded gerdans, as well as earrings with feathers - the choice of details for such an outfit is very wide.

• Pair with a long flared skirt and high heels. This set is perfect for lovers. romantic style in clothes. Please note: in this set, the top of a delicate yellow shade will look best.

If you choose a sweater for your office wardrobe, give preference to models from fine expensive yarn and freely combine them with strict pencil skirts, as well as graphite-colored trousers (a combination with beige or light gray will also look good, but not a black and yellow look).

To make your image look restrained, be sure to complement it with a vest or a warm jacket. straight cut. It is better not to experiment with accessories in this look: choose neutral black or brown shoes and a bag to match it, as well as small jewelry made of yellow metal without decorative inserts.