How to sew lace on a machine. Stitches for sewing complex fabrics: silk, lace, velvet
172846 10/02/2019 7 min.And the most wonderful dress sometimes needs reconstruction: has it shrunk after washing, has it turned out to be uncomfortable to wear, has the hem been damaged (torn, stretched out, has a stain), is it something that has retained its appearance but has not had time to “grow” with the teenager, or does the style need to be remade for .
Get the outfit, material, sewing tools. Activate your sewing talent and get ready to create magic!
There is a more labor-intensive, but interesting option, when the lower part of the skirt is cut off as evenly as possible at a level of 5-10 cm from the hem. The insert is used to reconnect the cut to the main part.
Sometimes an additional scattering of rhinestones, sequins or beads is used in lace knitting. A dress with such decor may well be suitable as a dress.
Sometimes ultramini length is unacceptable - use light lace
Translucent canvas adds solemnity and gloss to the image
Playing with contrasts: an additional stripe
If you need to add about 10-20 cm to the length, use a similar fabric in a contrasting color: sew a white or bright yellow stripe to black, and black to red. You can get creative by making a canvas of stripes of different colors and widths. The simplest thing, if the texture of the product allows, is to connect thick satin ribbons.
An original way to lengthen an outfit is to wear a strip of artificial elastic leather (matte or patent leather) or translucent fabric.
As an option, make the bottom variegated, but for harmony you should add an element from the same fabric. This outfit can be ideal if you choose.
Inserts on the sleeves and along the hem look organic and interesting
The first method is at chest level:
- make a brooch in the form of a decorative bow or flower;
- tie an elegant scarf around your neck, like Maya Kristalinskaya’s;
- attach a patch pocket;
- sew buttons covered with fabric for insertion.
The second way is to transform the sleeves by changing:
- the length of the insert, similar in color or style to the one that will be placed along the hem;
- cuffs, completely replacing them or creating new ones;
- style, adding patch pockets;
- button tightness.
The black insert made the knitted outfit more stylish
We work at waist level
Changing the length of an outfit for one reason or another is possible not only along the hemline. More labor-intensive, but no less interesting work is also possible along the waistline.
When transforming a sheath dress, difficulties will arise with altering the darts. They need to be unraveled and a yoke made of fabric similar to that from which the product is sewn.
If the skirt is wide, then it can be easily pulled down. The simplest thing is to take a thick knitted fabric and sew it between the upper and lower parts of the clothing, which can be separated by a belt. It is extremely important to know how.
The ideal insert can be obtained from a piece of fabric identical to the main product
The upper part of the insert should correspond to the waist circumference. The bottom one needs to be taken a little wider. It is better to make the insert from two trapezoidal pieces. Then the item will fit well.
A yoke is not necessarily a rectangle. The central part of both the upper and lower sections is sharpened, and at the same time appropriate changes are made to the cut of the product.
Look for incredibly stylish formal dresses that suit all body types.
Shuttlecocks
Fluffy ruffles are ideal for a straight skirt or a tight knitted outfit.
The flounces and train are an excellent tandem
Shuttlecock mounting options:
- directly along the front side of the skirt, when the cut lines of the flounces are decoratively processed and remain outside, the hem line appears under the insert;
- The upper cut of the flounces is attached to the skirt from the inside. The hem will be on the front side;
- the edge of the hem and flounces are aligned on the front side. The connecting seam will be on the inside.
Flounces are obtained by loosely casting the edge of a rectangular fabric onto a thread and then attaching it to the main fabric. You can make one layer or several.
Translucent case
The translucent case is sewn from the appropriate material - organza, chiffon. A rectangular cut can be stitched along the edges and sewn to a thick elastic band, which can be easily hidden under a decorative belt. But it will take more time and effort than a case.
A translucent case will transform even the most modest outfit
You can make a translucent wrap skirt with a wide belt that wraps around the waist. This will add lightness to your outfit. Particularly well suited.
The element creates the illusion of length and looks very original.
How to beautifully lengthen a knitted dress
Knitwear tends to stretch. Therefore, an outfit made of this material must be lengthened either through a cut at the waist with a corresponding insert, or through a neat extension of the hem.
The insertion method is also suitable for knitwear
It is important to pay attention to the weight of the piece being sewn: the knitwear will not support the fabric that is too heavy and will sag.
The work is performed with special needles for knitwear. Otherwise, holes will appear first, which will eventually turn into arrows.
For natural knitwear, for example, the insert fabric should also be non-artificial. In cases where only a few centimeters need to be added, elastic lace is added.
Modern craftswomen and beauties will be interested in reading about fashionable staple dresses in the Russian style.
If you are good at crocheting, you can turn the outfit into a masterpiece: using the hem threads as a base, tie the lace to the required length. If you have the skills and the design matches the model, pay attention to Irish lace, where separately knitted elements come together to form a unique pattern. Using the same materials, you can...
Short knitwear will be decorated with expressive lace
A knitted dress looks great, tailored exactly to your figure, with a light fluffy skirt made of chiffon, tulle, or organza.
You can also make a case from translucent fabric, shortening it at the front. If the fluffy one is a petticoat, then the “tail” is sewn on with flounces, and its base is fixed to the petticoat.
How to lengthen a wedding dress
The most difficult option is with full skirts.
How you can change your wedding outfit without spending extra money
But it can also be extended:
- sewing an additional layer of matching lace along the bottom row;
- slightly embroidering the junction of the corset and the skirt, if necessary, a strip of fabric is delivered there;
- an additional layer of tulle sewn directly onto the petticoat will make the dress both fuller and longer.
Read more about how to choose a wedding dress based on your body type.
Chiffon extension
Video
This video will tell you how easy it is to lengthen a dress with your own hands.
Even without special skills, it is quite possible to completely sew or transform an item by hand using a small piece of fabric and scissors. Show a little imagination and get an original new dress!
Master class: How to sew lace correctly
Delicate cambric or thin knitwear and lace stitching (inserts) are a classic combination for models in lingerie or romantic style. If the longitudinal edges of the lace stitching are not edged, and there are fabric allowances along them, then simply iron these allowances to the wrong side and stitch the lace stitching as described below. Then trim the lace allowances along with the stitching seam allowances.
First preparation
Cut out the pattern pieces from fabric with seam and hem allowances. Transfer the seam lines, bottom lines, all marking lines and marks, including the direction line of the grain thread, to the wrong sides of the cut pieces.
Important: to transfer markings to cut details made of white or transparent fabric, do not use colored copy paper - the marking lines will show through from the front side of the dress. In addition, not all fabrics will be able to completely remove color marks from carbon paper. Use white carbon paper and a copy wheel with a smooth edge without teeth (Prym) - the marking lines will be solid, clearly visible, and light gray in color.
Transfer the seam lines for lace stitching to the right sides of the cut pieces by hand using large running stitches.
STEP 1
Place the lace stitching on the front side of the cut piece between the lines of the stitching seams, pin and stitch to the edge. Cut the fabric under the lace between the seams along the middle line (see photo).
STEP 2
Iron the fabric under the lace up/down. On the front side of the dress, sew a tight, narrow zigzag stitch over the lace stitching seams. On the wrong side of the dress, carefully trim off the excess fabric close to the zigzag stitches (see photo).
STEP 3
If, at the same time as the lace stitching, you need to stitch the hem allowance on the bottom and trim the edges of the cut, then first stitch the lace as described in step 1 and cut the fabric lying under the lace. Then press the top seam allowance upward. Turn the hem allowance to the right side of the dress and stitch along the edge of the slit from the fold to the bottom seam of the lace stitching (see photo).
STEP 4
On the seam allowance, make a bias cut at the bottom seam, attaching the lace stitch to the last stitch of the vertical seam (see photo).
STEP 5
Turn the hem to the wrong side and pin exactly above the bottom seam of the lace. Iron it. On the front side of the dress, place a dense, narrow zigzag stitch over the lace stitching seams (see photo). Carefully trim away excess fabric close to the zigzag stitches. Along the edges of the cut and the ends of the lace stitching, make a narrow hem and stitch it into the edge.
Lace is a favorite material for wedding dresses. Although many dressmakers consider working with lace fabric to be very difficult, you will be pleased to know that these difficulties are somewhat exaggerated. The advantage of lace is that it does not need to process the sections and cut them out only along the grain thread. In addition, a good result will reward you for all your efforts.
Properties of lace.
Lace fabric for a wedding dress, as a rule, has a complex pattern. The popular lace tulle, like many other types of lace fabric, has a mesh (or honeycomb) as a base, on which the pattern is repeated and protruding loops (picot) along the scallops.High-quality lace fabrics are very thin, they can be decorated with hand or machine embroidery, braid, ribbons, sequins, pearls, beads or seed beads. The honeycomb structure of lace fabric allows you to ignore the direction of the grain thread and work creatively with patterned motifs and scallops.
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Lace fabrics and canvases are usually of small width and are used for cutting yokes, trims or appliqués. Sometimes the entire bodice and sleeves are made from lace fabric. Machine-made lace has patterned repeats along its entire length and not always scallops and processed edges. Some motifs of such lace are repeated quite often and can be cut into strips to finish the edges of the product. You can choose well-matching stripes for finishing the edges of lace parts.
Layout of lace patterns.
Lace fabric can be used for the entire dress or just for its individual parts. When purchasing lace fabric, pay attention to how much material is required in terms of the pattern as well as the layout of the lace patterns.Consider whether you can make the best use of this lace fabric for your project.
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See how the lace itself, its pattern, weight and density will combine with the style of your dress. Consider the direction of cutting the lace: will you need to cut it lengthwise, widthwise, or cut out individual patterns or edges with scallops.
Look carefully at the lace pattern: can you use individual sections of it for finishing? You can decorate the edges of the product with lace scallops, in addition, decorate the product with lace appliques or edge the lace edges with braid. Depending on the type and weight of the lace fabric you choose, you must decide whether you will use a backing and, if so, what kind.
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Some very beautiful dresses are made without lining. Choose only a lining that will not affect the appearance of your lace. It is better to use lining fabric for transparent lace; it can be the same color as it or another, or even contrasting. Lining will make your dress tighter, more comfortable and allow for a better fit.
Some laces are thin, but very prickly. For them, it is better to use an almost invisible thin mesh or tulle as a lining fabric. The lining can be shiny or matte. Try combining lace with satin, taffeta, organdy, crepe, voile or fine leotard.
When working with light-colored lace, cover your work surface with a smooth, dark fabric and lay the lace in a single layer on the fabric. Lay out all the paper patterns on the lace, paying attention to how the lace patterns lie on the right and left sides of the front and back, as well as in the middle.
Either pin the parts onto the lace with thin pins, or press them with weights. You only need to cut out lace fabric using cutting scissors.
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Open the lace.
When cutting lace, try to ensure that its pattern is not disrupted by the seam, but ends near the seam. Carefully plan and lay out your paper patterns, similar to how you would work with tartan. Arrange the patterns evenly and think about how to join the parts. Having achieved a good result, secure the paper patterns with thin pins or weights.Lace embroidered with ribbons, where the ribbons highlight the floral motifs, requires more careful thought, although the well-known statement that lace does not fray is true, however, your results will be better if you do not cut the ribbons that frame the outer line of the design.
To make it easier to cut out the lace while maintaining the integrity of the pattern, use thread to trace the line of the motif. Use a thread of a different color to mark the stitching line. Cut the lace behind the stitching line, although you can allow a regular seam allowance of 1.5cm or more if the piece is large. Only cut out the lace when you are sure you have drawn the lines correctly.
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Needles and threads.
Take pieces of lace and check which threads and needle size are suitable for sewing it. If you are using a size 80 needle, thread the machine with cotton or polyester thread. Hold the lace along the front and back of the seam to keep it from bunching, but don't pull. Set the stitch length to 2.5mm and sew slowly. Change the stitch length, combination of needles and threads, thread tension until you achieve a suitable result. If the foot gets stuck in the lace, its sole can be wrapped in polyethylene or use another foot, for example for sewing denim or satin stitch embroidery with a roller. If you still need to string the lace onto the foot, sew through tissue paper or a transparent interfacing. If the lace gets caught in the needle clamp, use a straight stitch or place a strip of tissue paper under the fabric.Traditional methods of seam and dart edging work well with matte, lined, or edged lace. These seams can be adjusted at the last fitting. Seams on thin lace are processed with double stitching or overlock. This type of stitching is very difficult to correct.
Connecting the lace parts along the marked lines.
Lay the pieces on top of each other, matching the lines of the same patterns. Baste the part along the seam line with a contrasting thread, make the necessary marks with a curly stitch. In this case there is no need to make marks.
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Stitching the overlay seam.
Secure the bottom edge of the piece with small zigzag stitches. Check your machine's manual to determine which foot and stitch length you should set.
4
Seam processing.
After stitching the pattern, trim off the excess allowance on the top lace piece. On the wrong side, trim the seam allowance close to the stitches. The darts should be ground in the same way.
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Lace applique.
Application placement.Sometimes it is not possible to place the pattern pieces so that the scallops are where you want them to be, such as at the neckline or along the bottom edges of the sleeves or skirt. In this case, the edges are trimmed with stripes with scallops or appliques, for which lace braid with scallops is also quite suitable.
You can also cut scalloped strips from existing lace fabric or cut patterns from the inside of it. Place the lace strips on the edge you want to trim. For the best effect, try to distribute the lace patterns evenly: small patterns will look better on small details, such as collars and cuffs, and larger patterns will look better on large details, such as a skirt.
Lace edge trim.
Apply the applique to a section of fabric so that a single piece is formed. If the part being processed has sharp curves, iron the applique into shape using steam or notch the applique so that it lies more evenly; pin and baste.
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To create the same scalloped hem as on our dress, cut a large triangle of scalloped lace to secure along the bottom of the front of the dress. Place the scalloped edge over the already sewn skirt front.
Sew by hand or machine stitch near the top edge of the lace. To decorate the rest of the bottom, cut out a scalloped strip following the design motif. Pin to the finished hem of the back panel of the skirt, placing the inner edge of the scallops along the entire bottom edge.
The lace motif from the back panel of the skirt should end so as to overlap the sides of the front appliqué; try to make sure that the motif is not interrupted along the entire edge if possible. Imperceptibly and firmly bend the straight edge of the scallops with your hands. Without grabbing the dress, connect the ends of the motif from the back panel of the skirt with the appliqué on the front panel of the skirt on your hands, imperceptibly and firmly.
To complete the top edge of a large appliqué on the front panel of the dress, place individual motifs cut from leftover lace to create a continuous, beautiful lace design. Sew the motifs onto the arms firmly and discreetly.
Cutting out the fabric from underneath the lace applique.
Sew the inside edge of the appliqué using a zigzag stitch, or sew over the edge on your arms. Cut the main fabric close to the seam to make the applique sheer.
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Lace applique on satin.
Pin the appliqué with the wrong side to the right side of the satin. Baste. Sew the applique along the edge and inside the pattern using small stitches by hand, trying to keep the lace and satin lying smoothly. You can stitch the applique to the edge using a narrow zigzag or straight stitches if it looks nice.
The amazing magic of lace... it adds elegance, tenderness and sophistication to any thing, be it an elegant dress, fashionable jeans, a dinner tablecloth or just an ordinary napkin. Today we will tell you in detail how to sew delicate lace yourself, so that you too can feel a little like a sorceress.
How to sew lace with your own hands in MK: some important tips
Sewing lace to fabric is, in general, not difficult, and it can be sewn to absolutely any type of fabric. In any case, to work you will need a needle, threads of a suitable color, scissors and, of course, lace.
Before proceeding directly to sewing, the lace needs to be washed, as it may shrink, and this will lead to unwanted tightening of the fabric. Next, after washing, lay your lace inside out on some soft surface (maybe a towel) and iron it carefully - this way the reliefs of the lace patterns will be preserved in their original form. We remind you that you can see many useful tips in the video lessons under the article.
If you decide to simply sew the lace to the fabric without making any gathers, you need to place the edge of the lace overlapping the edge of the fabric, and then baste it. Next, you need to sew it on a machine using a zigzag seam (in principle, you can use ordinary stitches, but zigzag is preferable).
If you are sewing lace to the hem of a dress, where it is expected to have either folds or gathers, then first we recommend sewing everything on a machine using a wide stitch along the edge, then gathering it on a thread, carefully basting it to the product, and only then sewing it with a zigzag. .
We sew the lace to the fabrics using regular and bow folds.Don't be put off by the name. This is not at all difficult - you just need to take material that has a repeating pattern. Next, you need to pinch the folds at equal intervals (whether they are counter or regular) and immediately baste them onto the edge of the product. In this case, it is allowed to sew lace not only along the edge, but also directly in the center of the item, which is most often used for finishing. For example, lace can be sewn anywhere on jeans.
In addition, sewing lace is allowed in the middle of the product - along the yoke, at regular intervals along its entire length. In this case, you can choose the type of seam to suit your taste. It is not necessary to use a simple line; you can also resort to the help of the much-loved “zigzag”.
In order to sew on the sewing (as you know, usually only one of the sides is processed), it is better to place the main fabric on top. In this case, it is preferable to use some kind of decorative stitch, of which any machine (modern, of course) has a huge amount. The threads here can be either matching the tone or contrasting.
Sometimes it becomes necessary to sew lace elements to each other, for example, when sewing it to a tablecloth or to a napkin, where you need to combine the corners. The secret is that if you use a regular stitch for this, the seam will turn out thick and completely ugly. Such a seam will “cut” the pattern. To avoid this, we recommend using extra lace. This is necessary in order to use a different stitching method. Using scissors, carefully cut out the design strictly along its outline. Next, apply the cut out “applique” to the other part in such a way that the pattern on one piece fits beautifully and correctly with the other. All that remains is to secure the resulting structure with needles, baste along the contour, and then sew it all in the same “zigzag”.
As we have already said, lace inserts on clothes look extremely stylish and impressive. If you want to sew an original straight lace insert, say, to a blouse, then first baste it face up to the fabric, and then carefully stitch it as close to the edge as possible. Cut out the fabric from the inside out, and fold the resulting edges, hemming them using an over-the-edge seam.
Figured lace is ideally sewn not on a machine, but by hand. To do this, we place it “face” to the fabric and baste it along the curved edges with small stitches. We cut the fabric from the inside out, and then carefully hem the edges. Voluminous lace will look especially impressive if it is sewn to a skirt.
How to properly and quickly sew lace to knitwear?
Since craftswomen often need to sew beautiful lace onto knitwear, we will consider this issue in more detail. Of course, there are many opinions on this issue, but we will offer you only one, the safest, in our opinion, option.
So, for work you will need not just a sewing machine, but also a double knitting needle. It can be purchased at any specialized sewing store. Having selected the desired step width, sew the lace close to the edge of the knitwear (in fact, almost overlapping). After the stitching is completed, turn the product over to the wrong side and carefully trim off the excess knitwear with scissors.
Video on the topic of the article
In the video materials presented below, you can more clearly familiarize yourself with the procedure for sewing lace to different types of fabric and various elements of clothing.
