home › Fashion and beauty › Russian national wedding dress. Wedding dress in Rus'

Russian national wedding dress. Wedding dress in Rus'

Olga Samoilova

Russian bride's wedding dress

Do not sew me, mother, a red sundress ...

The history of the Russian wedding attire begins in the post-revolutionary period, along with the separation of the church from the state and the abolition of the wedding. Until this period, a wedding dress in Rus' was called a wedding dress.

In the old days, a girl who gets married was considered "dead" for her past girlish life and for her family, since from the moment of marriage she went to live with her husband. Therefore, the women's wedding dress in Rus' changed during the wedding day, and consisted of pre-wedding and post-wedding.

The girl went to the wedding in "mourning", sad and modest clothes, as she parted with her girlish life. In some regions, girls walked down the aisle in black clothes and the same veil.

After the wedding, the bride changed into festive and elegant robes, red shades. The red color symbolized joy and the beginning of a new life.

Russian bride

The wedding dress for the bride mainly consisted of a complex of clothes with a sundress. The wedding sundress of the Russian bride was a real work of art - after all, it demonstrated the skill of needlework of the future hostess and the material security of her family. Often, wedding dresses were passed down from generation to generation and served as part of the bride's dowry.

Sundresses were skillfully embroidered with gold threads, decorated with beads and braid, and trimmed with gold and silver embroidery. It is not surprising that the wedding dress in Rus' for noble brides was distinguished by special wealth and luxury. It was sewn from brocade, and turned around with expensive furs and pearls. Often the weight of such outfits reached 15 kg.

On top of the sundress in some provinces, it was customary to wear a short, wide shower jacket, reminiscent of a jacket. She was also richly trimmed with embroidery, braids and gimps.

Part of the wedding attire was a wedding shirt, the sleeves of which, depending on the locality, could be puffy, tapering to the bottom, or long, with side slits. Such sleeves were called "weeping", and performed a "protective" function. It was believed that during the wedding they should not touch each other with their bare hands.

Under the sundress, the bride put on a large number of underskirts, which visually made her figure more magnificent, and also served as underwear.

Wedding headdress of a Russian bride

Headdresses of Russian brides

In ancient times, the bride's head was decorated with a wreath woven from wild flowers. Later, headdresses appeared that served as an interpretation of the wreath - ribbons, hoops covering the forehead and fixed on the back of the head. The headdress was also richly decorated. Hair could be loose, or braided into one braid.

A special place can be given to the decorations of the bride's braid. such decorations were called braids and were richly embroidered ribbons with voluminous pendants at the ends, embroidered with beads, pearls, fringe, lace.

Immediately after the wedding, the bride's hairstyle changed to two braided braids that wrapped around her head. The head was necessarily covered with a female headdress - a kokoshnik, a warrior, a magpie, or another type of headdress.

Groom's wedding attire

A curious detail of a man's wedding suit was a scarf. During the courtship, the bride gave her betrothed as a gift a silk or chintz scarf through the matchmaker. From that moment on, the entire pre-wedding period, right up to the wedding, the groom did not part with a gift that he wore as an ornament around his neck, or in a pocket of clothes so that its edge looked out.

The men's wedding attire consisted of dark blue pinstriped pants made of homespun cloth, an embroidered shirt and a woven belt. Sometimes the ensemble was complemented by a caftan or a fur coat. During the wedding, the groom was often girded with a skillfully embroidered towel.

The shirt was decorated with a wide pattern of red embroidery on the sleeves and hem. Sometimes the chest was also embroidered. The wedding shirt was prepared by the hands of the bride, who embroidered it with prayers, putting a kind of message into the pattern with the wishes of well-being, kindness and love.

Our site is regularly updated with interesting and unique materials and articles on the subject of wedding tips for newlyweds, wedding traditions and rituals, rules for guests at a wedding, funny wedding stories. If you would like to receive information about this, subscribe to our site's newsletter. We guarantee that your address will not be passed on to third parties.

The solemn and long-awaited wedding day should always take place in the style that the newlyweds choose. There are a lot of themes for a wedding, but folk style deserves special attention. The holiday will combine not only specific clothes, but also the traditions of the ancestors. Russian folk wedding costume should be on a special account, and it will have to be chosen with all care, it is even desirable to recall historical facts. And grandparents can suggest such traditions that have long been forgotten by everyone.

What did the wedding dress of the bride in Rus' consist of

The largest number of cultural monuments about wedding events has existed since the time of Kievan Rus. When Christianity was adopted, lovers began to openly celebrate the creation of a new family, this day was given special significance. So, at this time, folk costumes began to develop, which served as the wedding dress of the bride and the groom's attire. They always combined the richest fabrics, patterns, folk symbols.

Shirt

In all wedding folk costumes in Rus', according to custom, a shirt was found. It could be long or short, like a modern men's shirt. Only certain parts of this element of clothing looked out of the sundress, therefore they sometimes called such a shirt “sleeves”. These parts were embroidered with the most beautiful patterns. On the shoulders of such wedding folk shirts there were special inserts that were decorated separately. The fundamental difference between an ordinary daily attire and a wedding one is the richness of the processing of the second. They could not even come up with any white dresses then.

The shirt was worn under a wedding sundress and was an integral part of the folk attire. It was sewn from 4 pieces of natural linen fabric (occasionally from 2) and embroidered with silk threads. Multidirectional stitches were often used, which create the effect of a "live" ornament. The pattern itself could have a geometric format (sharp corners, endless lines or stripes) or natural (flowers, curls, leaves). This was chosen by the bride herself, as she did all the work.

Now, a Russian folk costume for a wedding must also have an embroidered shirt, but it already has a modified look - any colors are chosen, machine work is possible, not handmade. The bride does not need to sit over the hoop at night in order to be beautiful at the wedding - she should go to big stores and find the right version of a wedding shirt.

Sundress

The dress for the wedding was sleeveless, with narrow or wide straps. At the beginning of the development of solemn ceremonies, the sundress was wedge-shaped - it consisted of several parts, expanded to the bottom. And later he began to transform into a direct version of the cut. But in both cases, the waist was not emphasized, the sundress was free and hid all the parameters of the female body. Moreover, the material was so dense that even the shape of a woman was hard to discern.

Another thing now - for a wedding celebration you can wear the most fitting outfits that slim and open any part of the body. If you choose a folk style, then the format of the sundress must be preserved, but dressed in the way that was customary for our grandmothers. Make sure that the ornaments on such a wedding dress match your preferences - every pattern among the people means something and it is very important that these statements are combined with your worldview.

Apron

This part of the peasant attire also took place in a wedding dress. The apron in its shape is a bit like a modern apron and its purpose was the same. This element of clothing was also embroidered, but not as thick as a shirt or sundress. It was allowed to make it short with ties behind the back or long - through the neck. Different options for aprons allowed each newlywed to stand out, to be special. The girls showed their thriftiness in the ability to make a wedding dress.

For a modern wedding ceremony, you can prepare an apron, but it is not recommended to be in it at the whole event. There is only one reason for this - such an apron can cover the beauty of the sundress itself, since it is worn over it. It is better to use an apron for a certain part of the photo shoot, but not at the time of the wedding or celebration. Please note that many provinces did not have the tradition of wearing aprons with sundresses at all - which is why it is not mandatory at a wedding.

One or more belts

The belt has always been used to emphasize the waist, beautiful female forms. It is also a functional device - it keeps clothes on the figure. At wedding ceremonies, brides sometimes used such belts. They were embroidered, very dense and could be tied in different ways, since each one had a different length. Some newlyweds put on several belts at once in order to stand out and modify the wedding attire.

There are several ways to tie - with or without a knot, with a bow or with "twisted ends". The bride can wear a belt in different places: under the breast, on the belt. It all depends on which elements of the female body need to be emphasized and which ones to hide. For thin camps with wide hips, it is better to tie the belt at the waist, and if you want to visually enlarge the chest, then the belt should be fastened under it.

Petticoats

This element of wedding clothing does not perform such a big task, but in ancient times it was very often used. In the petticoat, the bride could go to bed on her wedding night. The technique of its implementation was the same as for a part of a sundress: wedge-shaped or straight cut. Below, such an element of clothing was embroidered with silk threads, and the upper part was sewn on an elastic band without fasteners.

For a modern bride, it is also worth choosing a petticoat - after all, she will peek out from the bottom of a sundress by 10-15 cm. Her choice should be based on color preferences, ornament. If the sundress itself is embroidered with satin stitch, and the bottom of the skirt is cross-stitched, it's okay, it will look even more impressive, but only if the patterns and colors are compatible.

Women's wedding headdress

A national Russian wedding dress is impossible without a kokoshnik. This headdress was present in every bride, since an uncovered head was considered a dishonorable act. A woman could goof off only in front of her own husband after many years of life, and for other family members and acquaintances this was out of the question. The headscarf was a daily wear item, not a festive one.

A modern bride, choosing a celebration in the Russian folk style, should purchase a beautiful kokoshnik for herself. This is a high half-hat with an open nape, decorated with various stones, beads, gold, and embroidery. The kokoshnik can be put on a special thin cap that hides the hair and protects the head. When choosing this option for the head, it is also worth thinking about the veil and hairstyle, since long hair is very clearly visible from under the kokoshnik. A long wedding accessory can be a gentle addition to the wedding look.

If you don’t want to wear a girl’s kokoshnik for a Russian wedding, you should choose a worthy replacement for it. A wreath of flowers - field or greenhouse - will be in place in conjunction with folk dress and ribbons. Since women's sundress and kokoshnik are often made in red colors, other accessories can be made in the same format. The main thing in the image is to correctly combine folk elements and modern ones. A folk costume with a bright necklace will look ridiculous, it is better to choose accessories that are not very defiant.

The meaning and symbolism of patterns on ancient Russian costumes

The wedding attire of the bride and groom of the folk style was necessarily embroidered with various reliefs, knitting could also be involved for this. And each such pattern had its own purpose. Depending on what was depicted on the wedding costume, married life could change. Therefore, in ancient Rus', the most kind, prophetic, correct signs were chosen. Here are some popular interpretations of the symbols:

The Star or Cross of Svarog denotes the folding and opening of the Universe. This is the grace from God, which should be carried through all life.
Belobog - this symbol brought good luck, light to the family. Such folk embroidery on a wedding dress means that everyday life will be full of joy and happiness.
Bogodar - means that all heavenly Gods will be favorable to the family. And everyone will be able to turn to the Higher Forces with any requests and prayers.
Volot was placed on the wedding dress of the groom and meant the strength, power of a person. For the husband to be the head of the family, the mother embroidered such symbols on the shirt.
The tree of Life. The name itself says that such a symbol indicates the beginning of a new round. In the modern world, it is embroidered to those newlyweds who are not going down the aisle for the first time.
Spiritual strength is embroidered on both women and men. The symbol will mean the overall power of the family and its resistance to external changes.

Shoes and jewelry of the bride

For feet in Rus', different types of shoes were used. In the summer, sandals were often taken. But in severe cold, folk felt boots made of wool were used. This truly Russian type of footwear was sure to be a dowry for every girl. And now Russians have a special passion for felt boots. Therefore, if you have chosen a Russian-style wedding, and even in winter, such shoes will be the perfect complement to your look. Otherwise, any beautiful shoes that are similar in color to the outfit may work.

As for the rest of the decorations, there should be a minimum number of them. The format of the Russian folk wedding costume is already very heavily decorated and does not require additional gloss. It is very easy to overdo it in this case: bright beads, necklaces, bracelets and rings are more suitable for a classic modern wedding dress, but not for a folk style. Let the embroidered sleeves remain the only moment that attracts the most attention.

Men's wedding attire

The man at his own wedding was less bright than his wife. The groom's suit included trousers and a long-sleeved shirt. The second element could be sewn right up to the waist. And all this was connected with a wide and long belt. This detail was embroidered with the same threads and patterns as a women's wedding dress. The sleeves and neck of the shirt were also in ornaments, symbolic patterns, this meant the wealth of the future young family.

At the present time, when choosing a folk style wedding, it is allowed to choose classic black options as trousers, but you need to work hard with the top. Since the shirt is the main colorful element, it must be done in the style of the bride's outfit. It is worth repeating the color scheme, the type of patterns and embroidery. For the base, you can use red - as the most popular in Rus'.

Photo of Russian folk wedding costumes

When choosing a style for your own wedding celebration, you need to look at a lot of already implemented ideas (in different photos, videos). Be especially careful when combining the images of the bride and groom, especially if a folk theme has been chosen. Here is a selection of the best folk wedding costumes in the Russian style, which can serve as the basis for the future wedding attire.

Wedding dress in Rus'

Olga Samoilova

Russian bride's wedding dress

Do not sew me, mother, a red sundress ...

The girl went to the wedding in "mourning", sad and modest clothes, as she parted with her girlish life. In some regions, girls walked down the aisle in black clothes and the same veil.

After the wedding, the bride changed into festive and elegant robes, red shades. The red color symbolized joy and the beginning of a new life.

Russian bride

On top of the sundress in some provinces, it was customary to wear a short, wide shower jacket, reminiscent of a jacket. She was also richly trimmed with embroidery, braids and gimps.

Part of the wedding attire was a wedding shirt, the sleeves of which, depending on the locality, could be puffy, tapering to the bottom, or long, with side slits. Such sleeves were called "weeping", and performed a "protective" function. It was believed that the bride and groom should not touch each other with their bare hands during the wedding.

Under the sundress, the bride put on a large number of underskirts, which visually made her figure more magnificent, and also served as underwear.

Wedding headdress of a Russian bride

Headdresses of Russian brides

Groom's wedding attire

Nowadays, many Russian girls dream of getting married in a fluffy white dress. But this tradition came to us from Europe, and not so long ago - in the XIX century. Previously, Russian girls were married in a sundress of any, but not white.

The color of purity and death

In many pagan civilizations, white symbolized death. In India, where most of the population is Hindu, white remains the color of mourning. Until now, Indian women who have lost loved ones wear a snow-white sari.

In the culture of any nation, the symbolism of the color of a person's clothing has always played an important role. So it was with the Russians. For example, in ancient times in the Slavic language the word "red" was a synonym for beautiful, and "white" also meant clean. In the pantheon of Slavic pagan gods, Belobog was present as the personification of the forces of light.

The peasants called Shrovetide days "White Week". Russian bogatyrs put on a white shirt under chain mail before an important battle, and merchants dressed in it after a bath, before a difficult and dangerous road. And they did this in case they had to accept death: they needed to meet it “clean”, finish their life path prepared. And in this sense, a white dress for a bride at a Slavic, Russian wedding was the most inappropriate choice.

sun dress

Russian girls sewed their own clothes for the wedding, and usually these were shirts embroidered with symbolic amulets and colored sundresses. A wealthy girl prepared three costume changes for a significant event. The first was girlish, ordinary in cut and material, but the best in execution was a “girlish” sundress of pink, yellow, green or blue. The second, wedding dress is a sundress made of expensive fabrics, usually red, raspberry or burgundy. It was embroidered with pearls, trimmed with gold threads, and in the northern regions - with expensive furs. The groom usually sent a headdress, shoes, a wedding ring and candles along with ancestral rings and necklaces that the bride was supposed to wear to the wedding.

On the second day of the wedding, the girl appeared in the groom's house in the third outfit - traditionally female attire with a matching headdress, symbolizing marriage, and with a wide belt at the waist. At the same time, fabrics for the costume were taken in hot golden, red and brown shades, and only occasionally black - the color of the earth, on which life directly depended.

royal fashion

If white is the color of death, then how did the tradition of wearing a white dress to a wedding come about? Some historians believe that Anna of Austria started such a wedding fashion. As a representative of the famous royal family of the Habsburgs, Anna was the daughter of the Spanish king, and at the time when they were going to marry her to the French monarch Louis XIII, Spain and France were on the verge of war. Anna did not want this marriage and was frankly afraid that her stay in a foreign land would end in death, so she herself chose a white dress for her wedding with Louis. The courtiers regarded this as an extravagant Spanish taste, because the swarthy girl in white was insanely good and looked like a cake.

And two centuries later, breaking the tradition, in a white dress she married Albert of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha Alexandrina Victoria, Queen of Great Britain and Ireland. But it was already a tribute to fashion - by that time, ancient Roman and ancient Greek culture was being rediscovered in Europe. In all noble houses they admired the beauty and conciseness of the marble sculptures of the Greeks and Romans in long white robes. Back then, archaeologists did not suspect that the statues had once been painted, and traces of paint simply did not survive on them.

After the wedding of the English queen, all her female subjects wished to be in white at their own wedding. This trend quickly spread throughout Europe, including Russia. At first, only Russian high-born noblewomen, who spent their entire lives in Europe, married in white dresses. And then, imitating them, the representatives of the other classes decided to leave the annoying sundress to illiterate peasant women. It was prestigious and fashionable to get married in a church in a long white dress, unless, of course, the bride's family had the money to order it abroad or to local foreign dressmakers. And since then, little has changed.

Russians wedding folk costumes are of particular cultural value. They are part of the history of our country, however, even in modern conditions, Russian wedding dresses are of great interest. Russian style, its unique wedding traditions remain a source of inspiration for many designers, and, of course, modern brides and grooms.

Features of the Russian wedding costume

Russian wedding suits differed from everyday clothes, first of all, in colors, materials of manufacture, and decor. Every detail of the outfit (and there were many of them - the wedding suit in Rus' was multidisciplinary) was important. The key differences can also be attributed to the way of wearing. As for the cut, it was about the same as for everyday clothes - loose, straight, not focusing on body features.

Russian dress with Mstera embroidery

As materials for the manufacture of wedding dresses, natural home-made fabrics were chosen - linen, wool. From flax, thin and light, they were made wedding shirts, A brides sundresses made from thicker fabrics.

Dress in Russian style

The choice of material depended on the wealth of the bride's family. Girls from wealthy families could afford clothes made from expensive purchased materials - velvet, brocade, silk. The clothes of brides from peasant families were sewn from simple fabrics, but they looked no less luxurious - due to exquisite decor, which was the embodiment of the unique talent of Russian needlewomen. As you know, it was the peasant girls who perfectly mastered the art of decor. And most clearly they showed their amazing talent in decorating wedding dresses.

Unique sundress decor

wedding in Russian style

basis bride's wedding dress was in Rus' sundress. These clothes were decorated with gold and silver threads, beads, bright braid. The most beautiful, of course, were the sundresses of brides from rich, noble families. They were sewn from luxurious fabrics, including brocade, decorated with natural pearls and valuable fur. Spectacular and expensive decor made clothes not only beautiful, but also quite heavy: sundresses of rich brides could weigh about 10 kg or even more.

Over the sarafan, the brides often wore shortened dushegrey - clothes that resembled modern jackets in cut. Soul warmers were also decorated - mainly with rigmarole, textured embroidery.
Another element of wedding attire is a wedding shirt. In different regions of the country, it was customary to decorate such clothes in different ways. Shirts also differed in cut: they could be long, short, narrow, wide, some garments had slits on the sides.

Under the bride's sundress, it was customary to put on several skirts at once - in order to give the figure a visual volume. Skirts were also used as underwear.

Headdresses of Russian brides

The invariable attributes of a wedding women's attire in Rus' were headdresses that were worn on hair, loose, or braided into neat braids. Special decorations were provided for braids - kosniki, which were beautiful ribbons with embroidery, natural pearls, openwork lace, beads, with massive pendants.

kosnik

Kosnik

The bride could wear one braid before the wedding, and after that she braided her hair into two braids that wrapped around her head. After the wedding, the girl put on a headdress corresponding to her status - a warrior, a kokoshnik, a magpie. Like other elements of wedding costumes, kokoshniks had luxurious decor. Of particular value were kokoshniks with pearls, which looked like real works of art. The attitude towards them was appropriate: pearl kokoshniks were revered as family heirlooms, and were passed down from generation to generation.

kokoshnik, embroidery with stones and glass on gold embroidery

wedding crown

Maiden's crown

Bride's belt

It is worth mentioning such a detail as belt. Belts made an advantageous accent on the beauty of the female figure, its forms. Such accessories also performed practical functions - they fixed clothes. For wedding dresses, skillfully decorated belts made of dense material were chosen. The method of tying the belt depended on the length of the accessory. In some areas, it was customary for brides to wear several belts at once - it was believed that this way the outfit looked richer and more spectacular. The belts were tied in a knot, their ends could be twisted.

groom's outfit

As for the Russian wedding groom's attire, it was the same in all regions of the country. The main elements of the costume were trousers made of cloth, a shirt with beautiful embroidery and a belt. Often the costumes were supplemented fur coats, warm, beautifully embroidered caftans - moreover, regardless of the season. At the wedding, the groom stood, girded with an embroidered towel.

Shirt the groom must have been decorated. Special requirements were imposed on the decor - red embroidery (if the shirt was white) along the hem line and on the sleeves. The chest area was also decorated with embroidery. Bright red shirts were also common, which looked especially festive. The color of the groom's trousers was not of fundamental importance, but bright colors were also preferred.

An interesting fact: the shirt for the groom was embroidered by his bride. It was customary for girls in Rus' to accompany the process of embroidery with prayers: in this way, the girl sent her betrothed a kind of message through the pattern, wishing him love, well-being, and health.

The cut of wedding men's clothing has remained unchanged for many centuries. Small changes concerned individual elements of clothing, for example, a collar. The kosovorotka, which today many associate with the national men's costume, appeared relatively late. Rather, men's shirts with a straight neckline can be considered primordially Russian.

Wedding attire as a tradition

Almost every element of the wedding dress in Rus' had a special meaning, was deeply symbolic. It is noteworthy that it was saved. Despite the difficult times that the country was going through, the traditions associated with the Russian wedding were carefully passed down from generation to generation. In many ways, thanks to this, they were saved. Many modern girls who get acquainted with the traditions of the Russian wedding costume often notice familiar features and elements.

Russian wedding dress today

Weddings in Russian style are becoming more and more popular. The bride in a kokoshnik, the groom in a beautifully embroidered caftan - something that has long been considered exotic, a manifestation of kitsch. Many newlyweds make a choice in favor of national costumes, refusing the usual formal clothes that have had time to get bored.

Russian wedding suit

Modern brides and grooms are attracted by the originality of the national wedding costume, its brightness, color, and unique decor. Spectacular, beautiful outfits in the Russian style create a truly festive atmosphere at the wedding, form a special mood for the groom, bride and their guests. Everyone who was present at wedding celebrations in the Russian style notes that national dresses truly adorn the newlyweds. Russian wedding clothes emphasize the femininity and beauty of the bride, and emphasize the masculinity of the groom.