Mk - crocheted slippers "white dogs". Children's knitted dog slippers with knitting needles with a description Knitting children's slippers with knitting needles in the shape of dogs

You can always buy beautiful boots at your nearest pet store. But will they be comfortable? When making shoes for a dog with your own hands, it is not difficult to take into account all the anatomical features - the position and size of the paws, the instep angle, the ideal height of the boot. And the best part is that sewing or knitting boots for your four-legged friend is not at all difficult.

Before we start cutting out and sewing, let’s remember the important nuances:

• It is clear that since a dog has four paws, there must also be four boots. But shoes should be sewn in pairs: the hind and front paws differ in the size of the feet, instep, and distance from the foot to the joint. You need to measure two paws - the front and back separately;

• shoes should not slip, so the material for the outer part of the sole should be rough. You can attach a strip of Velcro to the sole, but it will collect dust and small debris;

• In no case should shoes be tight, so you need to sew with a small margin for the movement of the paw back and forth when walking. Consider the length of the nails and the fact that the toes splay and protrude forward when the dog leans his entire weight on the foot. To ensure an accurate shoe pattern for dogs, measure the paw in a standing position - the pet rests completely on the limb, does not squat when measuring the front foot and does not lean forward when you touch the back paw;

• As a fastener, it is more convenient to use something that tightens, rather than a zipper or buttons. It is important that the fastener (elastic band, Velcro, braid on the fastener) does not squeeze the limb and does not interfere with the bending of the joints when walking. Poor blood circulation in the paws quickly leads to hypothermia! In addition, the dog will probably try to take off such a shoe;

• To prevent shoes from chafing, it is better to make the seams external. Especially if it is a winter model made of thick tanned fabric, fur, or thick leather. Rough external seams can be hidden under braid, piping or a decorative overlock stitch.

When walking, dogs rest on their toes, rather than on their entire foot, like a human. For them, the comfort of shoes is extremely important - altered paw placement quickly leads to chronic joint diseases. Therefore, first of all, always think about comfort, and only then about beauty. A dog with shoes should walk the same way as without them - walking confidently, not mincing. The shoes will have to be remade if the pet's paws move apart, the shoes fall off, the sole is clearly not under the foot, the socks point anywhere but forward.

If you urgently need to sew protective shoes for large breed dogs with your own hands, this option is ideal (the dog has cut his paw, but there is no “rescue” boot). These shoes are not very suitable for long-term wear. For small dogs and pets with lean, skinny legs, a few extra stitches will be needed. The material needs to be soft, elastic and waterproof. The sole can be strengthened by sewing a piece of thick non-slip fabric on the outside.

So, the inner oval or circle is equal to the outline of the foot (you need to measure the length and width). Line CD is the desired boot height.

• cut out a circle/oval from the fabric according to your measurements and a couple of cm for the hem at the top;

• place the dog’s paw in the center, directly on the fabric;

• we lift the fabric up, covering the paw and metacarpus (as if we were packing a flower pot);

• We make several tucks with pins, collecting excess fabric into darts (all excess goes to the outside of the boot). Please note that the boot must be put on freely, i.e. There is no need to tighten the width too much with darts;

• You can sew a thick felt insole inside or sew a sole on the outside. You can leave the boot soft, but the fabric should be waterproof;

• sew along the line of the darts, trim off the excess protruding fabric;

• we turn the top and pass the elastic band or cord on the fastener. We do the same tightening around the metacarpus, immediately above the foot.

Read also: Trick dog training

Comfortable two-piece boots

This shoe pattern for small dogs is suitable both as the basis for winter boots and for sewing light raincoats or anthers. The boots fit quite comfortably on the paw if the fabric is thick and holds its shape. The insole and/or sole can be reinforced at your discretion - with thick leather, a piece of tanned leather, felt, or left soft. Light boots to protect from moisture and dust can be sewn in literally half an hour, winter boots made of fur or leather take a little longer - you will need an awl to make punctures and strong threads.

• draw the sole according to the measurements of the foot plus seam allowances;

• draw a trapezoid, the height of which is equal to the height of the shoe, and the width is equal to the circumference of the metacarpus. At the bottom of the trapezoid there is a wave, as in the picture. Its rise will be at the back, at the heel (the narrowest point of the trapezoid is the back of the boot), and the sharp angle will be at the toe of the boot. We are looking for an approximate wave shape - it is convenient to cover the foot with paper or an unnecessary piece of fabric, estimate the bends and mark them with chalk/felt-tip pen. And then transfer the pattern from the “draft” to the fabric.

• we process the top (in the photo there is a checkered decorative edging along the top, but it is better to use an additional loose elastic band);

• fold the trapezoid in half and fit the sole. The seam that connects the sides of the trapezoid must match the toe of the boot, i.e. lean into it. The fold will be at the back, behind the heel. Sew the part to the sole;

• Now we sew the trapezoid along the lines (orange color in the picture). The back is vertical, and the front part is slightly beveled due to the inclination of the sides of the trapezoid. If there is a lot of excess fabric, you can make a front dart just above the foot (see number 1 in the photo). Around the metacarpus, just above the joint, we pass a lace or Velcro strip (number 2 in the photo).

Boots with tongues

Part 1 is the side of the boot, you need two of them per boot (or four if you want to insert a lining made of fleece or other warm material). The length of the tongue is approximately equal to part 1, i.e. boot height. The sole follows the contour of the foot (detail 3). Part 4 covers the toe and, together with the tongue, forms the front part of the shoe (you can see how sneakers are sewn - it will become clearer). To sew comfortable shoes for small breed dogs with your own hands using the pattern below, you will have to do several trial fittings. Use paper or scrap fabric for rough fittings.

• We sew the heels of the sides together and sew them along the oval to the sole, starting from the back of the shoe. For now we sew to the middle of the sole;

• sew the tongue and toe;

• sew the toe to the front of the sole;

• We sew the sides to the end, connecting them to the toe. The tongue remains free, the side parts do not need to be sewn along the tongue to the very top, otherwise it will be difficult to pull the boot onto the paw;

• All that remains is to pass a lace or Velcro tape around the metacarpus. If the boots are high, you need an additional elastic band or another tightening lace on top. If you are sewing shoes for a large dog, you can insert a strip of fabric between the side parts and the sole, the width of which corresponds to the height of the foot from the floor to the beginning of the joint (see the next pattern, this strip is used there).

Read also: Darling dog food

Comfortable boots for any weather

If you sew from thick leather with a lining, you get warm winter boots with a high top. But the pattern is also suitable for sewing nylon raincoats.

Compare the drawing with the photo below - it will become clearer what’s what. Detail 1 – a sole with a slightly cut heel (the heel is not round, but almost straight). Part 2 – the top of the boot, covering the foot to the beginning of the metacarpus (to the place where the boot begins, i.e. the entire top). Part 3 gives additional space inside the boot - its width is equal to the height of the foot from the floor to the joint, and its length is equal to the circumference of the sole. Part 4 folded into a cylinder is the boot (the height is at your discretion, but low boots hold up worse).

• sew the strip (item 3 in the figure and photo) to the sole (1), in a circle;

• sew the upper part of the boot (2) to the front strip, not all the way;

• The bootleg (4th part) remains open and is not sewn. Sew the bottom of the boot (the back fold) to the strip behind the heel and to the top of the boot in front. The edges of the boot remain free and open - this makes it easier to put on and take off shoes. To prevent the paws from getting wet and freezing, on one side of the boot you need to sew a shelf (5 in the picture) - a strip of fabric, like under the zipper on trousers.

• We try on the shoe and find a place just above the joint, just above the foot. Here you need to sew a pair of drawstrings (loops made of strips of fabric) to the boot, through which the Velcro strip will pass. We simply wrap the tape around the metacarpus and tighten it a little (so that the boot does not fall off, but also does not squeeze the paw). If you make two rows of Velcro, the dog will happily splash through the mud without noticing the bad weather: such shoes do not slip, do not twist, and do not change the position of their paws.

Good afternoon, friends!

Olga Andreeva seems to have become interested in knitting slippers and sent a second wonderful work - funny children's knitted slippers with knitting needles in the shape of dogs. Well, such charmers! There is also a description of knitting.

Hello, readers of the blog “The Comfort and Warmth of My Home”!

I already wrote about myself in a previous article. Today I want to present another work for the competition. These are children's slippers knitted with knitting needles.

My nephew recently arrived with his little son Levushka. He is 1.5 years old. My sister, Leva’s grandmother, just met her grandson, because they live in Moscow.

I wanted to knit something for the baby. From the remnants of melange yarn, which I used to knit slippers and socks for the competition, I knitted ordinary socks. And then I decided to knit some funny slippers in the shape of dogs. Now the baby is running around the room in them.

Materials for slippers

The slippers are knitted with two types of blue thread: wool with acrylic and grass.

I knitted with wool in one thread, and with grass - in 2, because these threads were very thin.

I used 2.5 mm circular needles and double needles to knit the nose.

Knitting pattern: garter and stocking stitches.

For decoration, we bought ready-made eyes, and the dog’s nose was embroidered with black thread.

The slippers are sewn on the back.

Knitting children's slippers with knitting needles in the shape of dogs

We start knitting children's slippers from the top. We take the necessary measurements and calculate the number of loops based on the sample.

Top

On circular knitting needles I cast on 44 stitches with blue wool thread and knitted 3 rows in garter stitch.

Then I changed the thread to grass and knitted 8 rows with the same pattern.

Spout

Let's move on to knitting the nose of the slipper. We select 12 central loops for the nose. There are 16 loops on each side.

We knit the first 16 loops, then continue to knit only the central 12 loops with stocking needles, and leave the side 16 loops on one and the other side on ring knitting needles.

We knit the toe of the slipper in stocking stitch to the required length, up to the little finger. I got 22 rows.

Then we decrease the loops. We knit two stitches together at the beginning and end of the row. In the purl row we do not decrease, we simply knit according to the pattern. So we cut 3 times until there are 6 loops left on the stocking needle. We cut the thread, then tie it to the main thread.

Sides

We cast on 14 loops on both sides from the outer side loops from the nose of the slipper. And starting from where we stopped when we started knitting the nose, we continue to knit on ring needles in the round using garter stitch. We tie the threads that we cut when knitting the nose to the blue thread.

We will end up with 66 loops on our knitting needles (6-point, 14 loops on both sides that we cast on, and 16 that remained on the ring knitting needles).

We knit 10 rows in garter stitch with blue wool thread. Then 4 rows - with grass and 2 more rows - again with blue woolen thread.

Sole

Let's move on to knitting the sole of the slipper. There are 66 loops on the knitting needles. We leave 8 medium ones for the sole.

We knit 36 ​​loops with knit stitches, then knit 2 together.

Unfold the knitting. Remove 1 loop, knit 6, then purl 2 together, unfold the knitting again.

So we knit the middle loops of the sole in garter stitch, knitting 2 knit stitches together in the front row and 2 purl stitches together at the end of the purl row. In this way, we reduce the side loops until there are 4 loops left on each side on both sides.

The length of the sole is approximately 15 cm. I made them a little larger, because a child’s foot grows very quickly.

Heel

Tied the sole. We have 8 loops on the central knitting needle, and 4 on the side knitting needles. We begin to knit the heel. Remove the first stitch from the central part and knit it with knit stitches.

Two loops out of 8 remain on the central knitting needle; we knit them and the first loop from the side knitting needle together.

Unfold the knitting. We remove the first loop, knit with the front ones, again 2 loops remain on the central knitting needle, we knit them and the first with the side on the wrong side together with the wrong side.

We repeat again - unfold and knit, knitting 3 together at the end of the front side. front, purl - 3 together purl.

Knit like this until only 1 loop remains on the knitting needle.

We tighten the thread, leave it longer and sew the back of the slipper with a needle.

The slippers are knitted. Now we will decorate them.

Decoration of children's knitted slippers

First we will knit the ears for the dog. We have double ones. The lower part is knitted with blue wool thread, the upper part is knitted with grass.

We cast on 5 loops per ear and knit 14 rows in garter stitch. Then we knit 2 stitches together on both sides. There are 3 loops left on the knitting needles, close them off.

We knitted 2 ears with wool thread and 2 grass for each slipper. We sew pairs of ears together and sew them on the sides of the slippers.

On the front we embroider the nose of our dog with black thread. My daughter Ksyusha did this and helped a little. We attach the eyes with hot glue.

Funny pets knitted slippers, crocheted parts were used for finishing. These indoor shoes will keep your feet warm both in autumn and winter.

Size 35-36
For knitting you will need: yarn (50% wool, 50% acrylic, 300 m/100 g) - 60 g dark brown, "Carolina" yarn (100% acrylic, 438 m/100 g) - leftover black, "Travka" yarn (100 % acrylic) - remains of light brown and dark brown colors, knitting needles No. 2.5, hook No. 2.75, padding polyester.
Garter stitch: persons and out. rows - only faces. loops.
Rib 1x1: knit knit 1 alternately. p. and 1 p. p.

Knitting density: 18 sts x 30 rows in garter stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
How to knit slippers with knitting needles. Description of work and knitting patterns.

Start knitting with soles. On the knitting needles with a dark brown thread in 2 additions, cast on 26 stitches and knit with garter stitch, adding on both sides in each 2nd row 6 times x 1 stitch = 38 stitches. Then knit 4 rows without adding, then decrease on both sides sides in every 2nd row 6 times x 1 p. = 26 p. Next, knit the upper part with knitting needles. To do this, cast on an additional 7 stitches on the knitting needle (continuation of the sole), turn the work. Knit the resulting 33 stitches, at the end of the row add another 1 stitch. Then from this edge add in every 2nd row another 5 times x 1 stitch (like on the sole of a slipper). Knit 12 rows straight. Then cast off 20 stitches from the heel side and knit the remaining stitches with garter stitch needles for another 6 rows straight. Then start decreasing from the toe side in every 2nd row 6 times x 1 stitch. After that, from the heel side, cast on 20 stitches again and knit another 12 rows with a 1x1 elastic band. Close the loops. Make a seam.

Ears: Using dark brown “Grass” yarn, crochet the slippers in 5 rows of st. b/n. In the next row, after knitting the side part and reaching the fold line, add 1 brown thread and knit the eyelet using non-woven stitches according to the pattern. After knitting 10 rows in half-stitches, return to the front of the product and knit 3 tbsp. b/n and make the second eye in the same way. Then tie the ears and side part with 1 row of stitches. non-woven thread “Grass” of light brown color.

Muzzle: Using Carolina thread in 2 folds, cast on 16 stitches, knit 2 rows straight with garter stitch needles. Then increase on both sides in every 2nd row 2 times x 1 p. = 20 p. Knit 18 rows without adding, then decrease on both sides in every 2nd row 4 times x 1 p. Knit another 18 rows straight and close the loops. Tie the part around the entire perimeter 1 next to the st. b/n. Then knit another 1 row of st. b/n, skipping every 2nd st. the previous row so that the muzzle tightens.

Spout: Using black thread in 2 additions, cast on a chain of 3 air. p., close it in a ring. Knit 6 tbsp. b/n in the ring. Next, knit in a circle with single stitches, evenly adding 6 tbsp. in every row. When you get a circle with a diameter of 3 cm, pull the part along the edges, stuffing it with padding polyester.

Assembling parts of knitted slippers: Sew the muzzle with the narrow part between the ears, lightly filling it with padding polyester. Also fill the wide part with padding polyester and sew it on. Sew the nose onto the muzzle. Sew or glue the eyes.

Based on materials from the magazine "Knitting is fashionable and simple. We knit for children" 2013

Master class on crocheting slippers.

For size - 36-38.

Sole length ready-made slippers- 26 cm.

Yarn consumption- 170g.

Materials:

• Yarn Pekhorka Autumn (25% wool, 75 PAN volumetric. 200g/150m)
• hook No. 6.5;
• black yarn Podmoskovnaya for nose and embroidery;
• black and white felt;
• two black buttons with a diameter of 18 mm;
• white threads;
• needle;
• synthetic fluff in the nose;
• felt sole.

The yarn is very thick, so I would recommend using an even larger hook than mine. At the time of knitting, my largest was only 6.5.

Description of knitting slippers

The patterns are all done by hand, as they were invented, knitted and unraveled on the fly :)

Sole

We knit the sole according to the pattern below; if you need a larger size, then increase the number of air loops in the cast-on chain. I have 12 air points.
The slippers ended up being wide, but this is also because I stretched them to fit the width of the sole. You can also fit in with a wool sock :)

Pattern for knitting soles:

+ - these are single crochets; with a stick at the top- this is half-st. with one crochet.
Knit 3 rows according to the pattern.
4th row: tie according to the pattern. Set aside, do not cut the thread.

Length when unstretched is about 24 cm.

Upper part of the slipper

The top part consists of 15 rows, knit according to the pattern below.

Pattern for knitting the upper part of the sneaker:

Attention! Rows 5 and 6 are not indicated in the diagram - we knit 14 sts.
and 9, 10 rows - knit 12 tbsp.

Place the upper part on the sole and determine the beginning of the stitching.
We connect by knitting 1 row of st. b/n. On the sole diagram this is the 5th row. The increases in this row are indicated on the side - it turns out that there are 3 columns on the heel and toe.
6th row: step forward.

Ready! tear off the threads, hide. Also, if you are “bothered” by the holes in the middle of the sole, you can tighten them with a thinner thread using a needle.

Ears (4 pcs.)

8 rows according to the pattern, 9th row. - crayfish step.
Then I sewed it with threads.

Eyes

Black ovals are approximately 4-5 cm. I cut out 4 black and 4 white ovals.
I laid the white ones on the black ones with a shift towards the middle, and sewed on the buttons. Then I stitched the white circles with a “forward needle” stitch.

Then along the black oval to the slippers.
I sewed on the ears, bending them in half.

Nose

Hook No. 3. 3 v.p. into the ring.
1 rub.: 10 tbsp. b/n.; 2 rubles: 20 tbsp. b/n; 3 rubles: 30 tbsp. b/n; 4, 5 rubles: 30 st. b/n.
Fold it to the bottom with a corner, fill it a little with synthetic fluff and sew it on the muzzle.
Embroider the mouth.
All the muzzle is ready.

DOGGY SLIPPERS. Size of knitted slippers: 35-36 For knitting you will need: yarn (50% wool, 50% acrylic, 300 m/100 g) - 60 g dark brown, Carolina yarn (100% acrylic, 438 m/100 g ) - remains of black color, yarn "Grass" (100% acrylic) - remains of light brown and dark brown colors, knitting needles No. 2.5, hook No. 2.75, padding polyester. Garter stitch: knit. and out. rows - only faces. loops. Rib 1x1: knit knit 1 alternately. p. and 1 p. p. Knitting density: 18 p. x 30 rows in garter stitch = 10 x 10 cm. How to knit slippers. Start knitting from the sole. On the knitting needles with a dark brown thread in 2 additions, cast on 26 stitches and knit with garter stitch, adding on both sides in each 2nd row 6 times x 1 stitch = 38 stitches. Then knit 4 rows without adding, then decrease on both sides sides in every 2nd row 6 times x 1 p. = 26 p. Next, knit the upper part with knitting needles. To do this, cast on an additional 7 stitches on the knitting needle (continuation of the sole), turn the work. Knit the resulting 33 stitches, at the end of the row add another 1 stitch. Then from this edge add in every 2nd row another 5 times x 1 stitch (like on the sole of a slipper). Knit 12 rows straight. Then cast off 20 stitches from the heel side and knit the remaining stitches with garter stitch needles for another 6 rows straight. Then start decreasing from the toe side in every 2nd row 6 times x 1 stitch. After that, from the heel side, cast on 20 stitches again and knit another 12 rows with a 1x1 elastic band. Close the loops. Make a seam. Ears: Using dark brown “Grass” yarn, crochet the slippers in 5 rows of st. b/n. In the next row, after knitting the side part and reaching the fold line, add 1 brown thread and knit the eyelet using non-woven stitches according to the pattern. After knitting 10 rows in half-stitches, return to the front of the product and knit 3 tbsp. b/n and make the second eye in the same way. Then tie the ears and side part with 1 row of stitches. non-woven thread “Grass” of light brown color. Muzzle: using Carolina thread in 2 folds, cast on 16 stitches, knit 2 rows straight with garter stitch needles. Then increase on both sides in every 2nd row 2 times x 1 p. = 20 p. Knit 18 rows without adding, then decrease on both sides in every 2nd row 4 times x 1 p. Knit another 18 rows straight and close the loops. Tie the part around the entire perimeter 1 next to the st. b/n. Then knit another 1 row of st. b/n, skipping every 2nd st. the previous row so that the muzzle tightens. Spout: using black thread in 2 additions, cast on a chain of 3 air. p., close it in a ring. Knit 6 tbsp. b/n in the ring. Next, knit in a circle with single stitches, evenly adding 6 tbsp. in every row. When you get a circle with a diameter of 3 cm, pull the part along the edges, stuffing it with padding polyester. Assembling the parts of knitted slippers: sew the muzzle with the narrow part between the ears, lightly filling it with synthetic padding. Also fill the wide part with padding polyester and sew it on. Sew the nose onto the muzzle. Sew or glue the eyes.