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Funny snail made from salt dough. Modeling a souvenir snail from salt dough or cold porcelain

Who is she, answer me?
Carries a house on his back,
But he doesn’t crawl quickly.
It's called (snail).

We invite you to make a very interesting picture-craft, where your children will not only be able to draw different materials, but also to smear! You will get something useful and exciting activity, and the result will be very pleasing! This idea is perfect if you have been given the task of making or drawing a snail. Take note of our idea!

Our shell turned out to be very similar to a mandala. You can read more about how such drawings are made in master classes and

Materials:

thick sheet of A3 format;
cardboard;
acrylic (or gouache);
wax crayons;
watercolor;
brushes;
a simple pencil;
scissors;
salty dough(flour + salt + water);
PVA glue;
cereal;
pebbles, bones, beads, etc. for sink decoration.

How to do:

From white thick paper or cardboard, cut out a snail body and a round shell.
We paint it with acrylic or gouache and let it dry.
Glue ready-made plastic eyes or paper cutouts.
First we draw the background for the picture with wax crayons.
Now we apply a watercolor drawing on top of the wax crayons.
This is what the background looks like. Let it dry thoroughly.
Knead the salt dough (salt + flour in equal proportions and water). You can add a little paint to it to give it some color.
First we make a ball out of the dough, and then we’ll give him the shape of a pancake.
Grease the paper base for the shell with glue and stick the dough. Remove excess dough around the edge.
We decorate the shell with various cereals, peas, beans, bones, seeds, and beads. We talked in more detail about how such drawings are made in master classes and
The pattern on the shell looks like a mandala. We talked in more detail about how such drawings are made in master classes.

The snail is ready!!!

Place the finished work on a flat surface and let it dry for 1-2 days. Then you can hang it vertically!
If you want your work using salt dough to be durable, then cover it with acrylic varnish on top.

For work we will need the following materials:

Modeling clay (or plastic),

Wire (I have a knitting wire with a cross-section of 1.2 mm),

Insulating tape,

Tape,

Toilet paper,

Sewing threads,

Glue Moment-crystal transparent,

water emulsion,

Watercolor,

Aerosol varnish,

Round head pins,

Sandpaper medium-grain, fine-grain,

Wet wipes.

and tools:

Pliers,

Thermal gun + glue for it,

Scissors,

Stacks for modeling,

A thin drill.

That seems to be it.

First of all, I prepare three pieces of wire. The length of the segments is approximately 40, 35 and 30 cm. I bend all three in half.

I bend the middle segment in the following way, forming the body of the snail:

I bend the shortest one into an arc and try it on with the first one. It will become the back of the snail.

The third, longest segment will become the “house”. I put the pieces of wire next to each other, tried them on, and made sure that the proportions of the snail suited me. We can move on.

I take the first blank, spread the wires on the sides so that the body of the snail has a certain width and is not flat. The photo shows what I mean.

Using electrical tape, I secure the back of the snail in the neck and tail.

Bottom view:

The frame is ready, for now you can put it aside and work on the snail's head.

For work I will need clay, toilet paper, foil. I roll a relatively dense ball out of paper; its diameter is approximately equal to the diameter of the ball of clay that will be needed to work above the snail’s head.

I wrap the paper in foil and seal it. I give it the shape of an egg - the diameter of the workpiece is smaller on top than on the bottom. But, unlike an egg, the height of the head blank is approximately equal to its width.

I'm trying on the head blank for the snail frame. If the proportions suit me, I continue working on the snail's head. If not, it's time to correct the mistakes.

I cover the foil base with clay, making sure that there is no air between the clay and the foil, it will interfere with the work.

Another fitting and checking the proportions. Everything is fine? You can sculpt a face.

I push through my eye sockets thumb hands.

I outline the nose, but don’t highlight the nostrils.

I sculpt my upper lip. To do this, I place a small clay roller under the snail’s nose and smear it with sticks.

Forming lower lip similar to the top one.

Although the snail is not a humanoid creature, when sculpting its face I use the same rules as when sculpting a human head.

If you look in profile, the most protruding point will be the nose, the upper lip protrudes less, the lower - even less.

Between the nose and upper lip no acute angle.

I correct the shape, apply it, smooth it. I'm working on the jaw.

I apply clay in the form of a drop in the area of the cheeks on both sides.

I apply it, on one side I have already worked on the cheek, on the other - not yet.

The second cheek is coated, I will still correct the shape of the mouth.

I continue to work on the cheeks and mouth area.

I place a large cake of clay on the snail’s forehead and strips of clay in the area of the outer corners of the eyes.

I apply it.

I iron it.

I roll two clay balls and insert them into the eye sockets.

I apply it.

I showed the muzzle in sufficient detail, but in general the snail’s head has the following shape:

View from above:

Bottom view:

There is no need to make a hole at the bottom of the head. The presence of a hole for the neck allows the snail to turn its head. The neck part of the body blank will extend a couple of centimeters inside the head. If there is a hole, then through it you will need to carefully pull out the foil and paper located inside the snail’s head. This is easy to do using crochet hook, For example. Or a bent paper clip. Presence of foil inside toilet paper greatly simplifies the process of emptying your head. We use a crochet hook (clip) to pry through the foil and pull out the paper, then piece by piece we take out the foil that is already hanging loosely in the head. It's much harder to describe than it is to do.)

I put the face aside and, while it dries, I gain volume in the body and shell.

I place a wad of toilet paper between the wires that form the snail's body. If necessary, I fix it with threads (I just wrap it around it).

I wrap paper around the entire body blank.

I secure the winding with threads so that it doesn’t run away. In addition, this allows you to increase the density of the workpiece and reduce its volume.

Once again I wrap the paper around the body, increasing the volume to in the right places, I close the neck and tail.

I fix the winding with threads and try on the head.

I wrap the body blank with tape. This allows you to reduce the volume, smooth out irregularities, and compact the body of the cochlea. I perform similar actions with the sink - paper, then tape.

Here's what happened:

Now I cover the body blank with a thin layer of clay, smooth it and leave it to dry for a day. Once the head and body are completely dry, I will sand them down using sandpaper.

While the body and head are drying, you can decorate the snail shell. I simply wrap the workpiece with fancy yarn, gluing it with Moment Crystal glue if necessary. I start with the tail.

Completely wrapped and glued workpiece:

I continue wrapping the shell. For the second layer I use green cotton and yellow color. I start working from the thin end of the shell. I carefully glue the tails.

To cover the wide end of the shell, I crochet a circle of the desired circumference.

Of course, you can decorate the end in another way. For example, just continue to carefully glue the yarn. Or attach a felt flower.

I glue the knitted element.

I roll the shell up tighter. I like the empty space between the swirls of the shell. You can arrange the turns of the spiral close to each other, at your discretion.

After 24 hours, you can continue working with molded blanks. The body and head have dried out and now look like this:

Now you need to stock up sandpaper and iron the workpieces. We start sanding with medium-grain sandpaper, then fine-grain sandpaper. When the workpieces become completely smooth, polish them using a polishing sheet or nylon tights. I like to use a dried wet wipe for this purpose.

The ironed workpiece is primed with water emulsion several times. I dry each layer and skin.

Using a thin drill, I manually make holes for the snail's horns.

I'm starting to paint the eyes. I paint with watercolors. I choose the color for the iris. In this case I use yellow-green, green, ocher, umber, mars brown, sepia. I use the main medium green color to depict the iris. I work with a synthetic brush 000.

I outline the pupils using sepia.

I darken the iris along the contour using more dark shade green.

I paint the pupil more tightly.

I highlight the iris.

I darken the areas of the iris adjacent to the lower and upper eyelids.

I put highlights on the pupils.

I smooth out the color transition on the iris.

Using red ocher I highlight the smile.

Preparing the paint flesh-colored for tinting the torso and head. I use a water emulsion with a small addition of brown. I tint the workpieces, dry them, and skin them. I repeat the process 2-3 times until I am satisfied with the result.

Now you can finish painting the snail’s face - add eyebrows, darken the outline of the eyes, nostrils, and correct the smile.

When the painting and tinting work is completely completed, we cover the head and body of the snail with varnish. I use an aerosol.

Now with the help glue gun You can glue the horns to the snail. We work carefully so that at the joints we get small regular balls of glue, and not rough and unattractive drops. I apply glue to any unnecessary surface and dip the tip of a pin into it. Using rotational movements, I quickly remove the pin from the glue and insert it into the prepared hole in the snail’s head. You can also use second glue.

I also paint and varnish the horns.

I attach the snail shell to the body using hot glue. I apply a wide strip of glue to the back of the snail, apply it and press down on the shell.

If glue appears at the attachment point, it is better to decorate the joint between the sink and the back. For example, you can glue on top of the glue decorative cord or cover the joint area with paint to match the shell or body.

This is the snail that resulted from this master class:

Does your child love different animals? We invite you and your child to make a beautiful snail from dough. The color, size and shape of shells can be very different. And the number of these little animals will depend on your time and desire. Rest assured, the child will undoubtedly like both the process and the result. After all, you can not only admire a snail made from salt dough, but also play with it. What else does a baby need?! You can also give it to someone as a souvenir...

DIY salt dough snail

Material for work:

salty dough
matches (toothpicks, springs)
watercolor paints
toy eyes

How to make a snail from salt dough

So, let's sculpt a snail. First you need to prepare the dough itself. We recommend reading how to prepare salt dough in the article.

1. Sculpt the snail's head. Dry the part. Then turn it over and cover the uneven areas with dough.

2. Roll out 2 small sausages from the dough - these are horns. By the way, you can use small springs as horns. On the ends you can stick dough balls.

3. Connect the dried parts (head and horns) using a piece of dough.

4. Roll out the dough into a sausage and arrange it in a spiral.

5. Then we sculpt the body of the snail, which goes into the neck. Dry the part. Then turn it over and cover it with dough so that the side that was deformed during drying is rounded.

6. Glue all the parts together using the dough. Connect the shell and body using dough and a piece of a match, so that one half of the match is held in the shell, the other in the body.