The mysterious badge on the lapel of the jacket - what does it mean. The hidden meaning of clothing details
Another keynote post on a topic that is covered on the web even worse than the fit of the suit. These are its "insides", all layers and components.
Many mistakenly think that a jacket is no different from a jacket or any other outerwear - as if it is a layer of the main fabric on the outside, a lining layer on the inside and pockets. Alas, this is a big misconception, in fact, the design of the jacket is much more complicated - if you look “through”, then in some places you can see at least a dozen layers of various fabrics! This is not only the main and lining fabric, but also collar, shoulder pads, pocket fabric, and other. A glossary of these details, without which there would be no costume, I will create today.
I will also give a small explanation - there are terms in the text bespoke and made-to-measure. Perhaps a little later I will do a long text about the difference in these approaches to tailoring, but for now I will only give basic definitions. Bespoke is a technology for fully personalized tailoring. By the standards of the client, all patterns are built from scratch, then the work is done by craftsmen who strive to create a costume to the maximum of manual operations. This is the most expensive, time-consuming and high-quality technology. Made-to-measure is a kind of "constructor" of a suit, which uses ready-made patterns. The client chooses what a limited number of details will look like (e.g. lapels, buttons, pocket shapes) and then the existing patterns are “customized” to the client's measurements by making changes and assembled into a product, most often with a minimum of manual operations. Despite this, made-to-measure is a qualitatively different approach than buying a jacket in a store and fitting it in an atelier. And with the above features, it's still the same suit made especially for you. Therefore, the first step in getting acquainted with individual tailoring, in my opinion, should be exactly MTM.
Unfortunately, most of the suits that you can buy today in the store (if your budget is no more than 40-60 thousand rubles) are made using the simplest technology, which is radically different from bespoke and made-to-measure - glue. This means that instead of 3-5 layers of beading, which must be processed and attached to the jacket by hand, one layer of material is used, which is heated with an iron and “glued” to the fabric, giving it shape. Below are some of the differences between these technologies.
So, let's begin. 
boards (shelves)- the jacket can be single-breasted or double-breasted. If the jacket is single-breasted, then it is fastened with one row of buttons, if double-breasted - with two, in this case, the two front halves of the jacket seem to “puff up” and lie on top of each other in two layers (which makes a double-breasted jacket slightly warmer than a single-breasted one). Nowadays, the first option is much more common, but this is what sets off the second one favorably. Some consider a double-breasted jacket extravagant, but in fact it is a completely classic style of clothing. In soothing dark colors, it will look even more elegant than its “lightweight” counterpart. Just remember that you can wear a single-breasted jacket unbuttoned, but it is highly undesirable to do so with a double-breasted jacket. For example, Prince Charles is very fond of unbuttoning his double-breasted jacket, for which purists and newspapermen often bonfire him. However, over the years, everyone seems to have gotten used to it and even reconciled.
Lapels- this is probably the most noticeable detail of the jacket. In the old days, the collar could be turned up and then the lapels could be fastened with an additional button to protect against the wind, but in our time, the lapels have become more of a decorative element that has lost its original purpose. Now “working” lapels are made only in hunting jackets and jackets.
Lapels can be of three forms:
Straight- the most standard option, where the collar and lapel converge at a right or pointed / blunt angle.
Acute(“swallow wing”) - bolder, almost mandatory for double-breasted jackets, but possible on single-breasted ones. The size of the "wing" can vary from a small protrusion to a huge departure, extending above the shoulder. This is already a matter of taste, but you are unlikely to find the latter option in stores (and not at tailors), so just enjoy the above picture.
shawl- this is the form in which the collar goes into the lapel (in fact, the name sounds exactly like “shawl collar”, not “shawl lapel”). It is used only in tuxedos and informal fashion jackets. Unless it is a tuxedo and you are over 20 years old, I would advise you to refrain from purchasing such an item. It can be compared with brogues from Dr. Martens with a chunky, contrasting rubber sole is kind of like a classic piece of clothing, but with a twist that turns it on its head. This solution may be interesting for an extravagant youth look, but definitely not for someone who strives for a classic style.
In order to prevent the lapel fold from looking flat and too straight, a special trick is used in bespoke tailoring - a silk or viscose ribbon is manually attached to the slightly stretched lapel rim (which will be discussed below), which “tightens” the lapel and creates a wrap around for it. inside. Now, instead of a straight lapel fold line, we see a small anatomical fit on the finished jacket, which also emphasizes the noble origin of the product. In the photo above, this part is made of purple material.
flare- this is a decorative (although, in the case of handmade jackets, functional too) stitching at the edge of the lapels, collar and / or pocket flaps. It is performed with a contrasting thread or a thread selected a tone darker than the fabric, which is either folded in half or initially thicker than usual. These small and imperceptible at first glance stitches are on the one hand a sign of a quality jacket, and on the other, an easy way to mislead the consumer, since these days not so much flare is done by hand. Most are made with an “invisible” machine stitch, which, however, is easily recognizable if you look at the lapel from the inside. There is no functional difference between hand and machine work in this case, but do not overestimate the jacket for having treasured stitches on it. :)
Buttonhole- a hole on the left lapel (on double-breasted jackets, often on both), into which boutonniere- a live flower or a metal/silk accessory. On mass store jackets, it is often not cut and performs a decorative function. In store products, better and simple made-to-measure (factory-made to order) is made on a typewriter, but cut. On jackets made by masters, it is made with silk threads by hand, due to which it can have a slightly untidy or at least unusual look. One of the fetishes of European (and today - Russian) connoisseurs is the “Milanese” buttonhole, which looks like it is put on top of the lapel. It is done only by hand and takes almost an hour of the tailor's time.
slots- These are cuts on the back of the jacket, providing freedom of movement and comfort when sitting. Jackets are made with one and two slots. Nowadays, two prevail, but in general it is a matter of taste. It is not recommended to buy jackets without slots, but they are rare in stores, not to say “rarity”.
Pickup- a detail that may not be obvious at first glance. This is a piece of the main fabric that is on the inside of the jacket - you may have thought that this is part of the "outer" fabric, but this is a misconception. The bead is cut out and stitched separately, acting as an “adapter” between the main fabric of the bead and the lining. Its size can be almost any - most often it is about half the width of the side (in the photo above - significantly at same).
Crinoline- a detail you've never seen before. In fact, both the material and the detail itself are called bortovka in Russian, which can mislead the reader. In this case, the part is assembled from the same material. So, a beading is several layers of dense fabric (hard linen, camel and horse hair and other dimensionally stable natural materials are used for details), which ensure the exact fit of the jacket according to the customer's figure. With the help of an iron, they are given a shape that repeats the human body. Then they are assembled with each other using hand stitches, which, unlike machine stitches, provide little dynamics of the layers relative to each other. This gives the product “liveness” and softness, while maintaining its shape. Also, the detail of the bead covers the lapel and is fixed to it with invisible hand stitches.
In the case of store-bought jackets (whether it's the entry-level H&M/Zara or mid-priced Russian brands like Tommy Hilfiger/Massimo Dutti), in 99% of cases you'll come across a glued bead construction. Instead of natural materials and hand stitches, you will find an adhesive piece firmly “stuck” to the fabric that holds the shape of the jacket in the simplest possible way.
There is also a “half-canvassed” option (in English - half-canvassed), in which “according to the rules” a part of the side is made above the waist, and the rest of the volume is glued. This is how they act in most Russian ateliers of individual tailoring of an average level, which they themselves directly admit. Most likely, a ready-made suit from a non-premium line of a boutique with a big name (“Corneliani”, “Brooks Brothers”, “Polo Ralph Lauren” - real examples) will also be made with a “half-flare”.
Collar- you can intuitively guess that this is a detail around the throat. The collar is assembled from two parts - upper and lower. The upper one on a classic jacket is almost always made from the main fabric, and the lower one (pictured) is either made from the main fabric and the side (in this case, the “side” is a piece of material that repeats the shape of the collar), or from felt (dense, but soft material, a close relative of felt and felt). To the latter, the main fabric is sewn by hand or, in the case of store-bought and made-to-measure products, with a machine zigzag stitch. Filtz can be bright and contrasting - it is not visible at all before the collar is raised, but when raised, it “colors” a conservative male image. By the way, a frequent argument in favor of bespoke tailoring is that it is almost impossible to achieve a perfect fit of the collar in the case of a “shop” jacket.
The line connecting the collar and lapel is called raskepom and is also done on bespoke jackets by hand with an invisible stitch.
Lining- this is not one detail, as it might seem at first glance, but five (repeating shelves, barrels and and jacket back). The lining covers all its insides from prying eyes, and is also often bright and contrasting. It is made from a sliding natural material (silk on the most expensive jackets, viscose / cupro on decent ones). Polyester is used only in the cheapest jackets, and since it is not ventilated, it is desirable to avoid its use.
There is also a whole category of unlined jackets (especially loved by Italians with their warm climate) - in them all the internal seams are visible and treated with oblique trim (a thin strip of fabric that covers and protects the cuts), and the side part (if any) is closed with an increased selection. Such jackets are lighter, softer and cooler than their "full-fledged" counterparts.
leaflet- so in a tailor's way an ordinary chest pocket is called. In no case should it be used functionally - only decorative, for wearing a silk / woolen / cotton pocket square. It is strictly forbidden to put handkerchiefs, notepads, pens and packs of cigarettes in it. An exception in the form of points is possible, but this is an act of the “violation of the rules that you know well”, therefore, if you are not sure about this knowledge, it’s better not to.
Shoulder pads- despite the fact that many jackets seem very thin, almost all of them have shoulder pads - their thickness varies from 1.5-2 cm of processed cotton (batting) to a single thin layer of beading (these are the lightest). In the case of a “correct” bespoke jacket, the pads will be made personally for your shoulders in an anatomical shape (for example, they will correct uneven shoulders with different pad sizes - almost all men have a downward bias of a more active arm, most often the right one). Lazier bespoke makers and made-to-measure ateliers will take something from the base of ready-made rubbers that, in their opinion, will suit you. Shop “shoulders” will be the same and equilateral, most likely made of foam rubber.
Sleeve slots- places on the edge of the sleeve where the buttons are located. Since there is no objective need to unfasten these slots, in our era on shop jackets they are made exclusively decorative, non-working (with the exception of certain brands of the premium category and most luxury ones). Of course, in custom-tailored suits, each of the buttons can be unbuttoned, and this works both for bespoke and made-to-measure. In order to subtly showcase the quality of the jacket, many men always keep the bottom button of their sleeves unbuttoned.
podkatnik- the most inconspicuous of all details, but at the same time mandatory for any jacket. Its shape resembles a boomerang, it is manually fixed together with the sleeve and the shoulder pad and creates a shape for the sleeve hem. Without a podkatnik, the sleeve would freely “fall” from the shoulder, and with it it keeps an aesthetic shape.
And also a little about trousers, so as not to get up twice:
Arrows- the standard for suit trousers of any era, a clear and straight line, ironed in the middle of the leg. “Correct” arrows on trousers with a pattern (plaid, stripe, herringbone) will divide the pattern exactly in half. The rule is simple - if your trousers have creases, then always iron them before leaving the house so that they look fresh and tidy. If your trousers don't have streaks (usually in such cases we are talking about informal trousers made of cotton or corduroy) - do not try to create them, they are not needed there.
belt loops- these are the parts on the belt in which the belt is held. They say that initially on Savile Row trousers are sewn without belt loops, and then they are added by the master at the additional request of the client. This is due to the fact that the fit of the trousers must be so perfect that it does not require any additional means of supporting the product at the waist. If there are still loops on the product, it is considered mandatory to wear trousers with a belt or suspenders (in no case at the same time!). However, wearing a suit without a belt is another way to flaunt custom-made clothing.
Pintucks- these are folds of fabric that are fixed by the master on the front of the trousers under the belt. There are trousers with two tucks, one tuck and no tucks. Nowadays, all fashion connoisseurs categorically insist on wearing only the latest, considering tucks too old-fashioned. However, in my opinion, this is a matter of taste - there are many men (especially over 30 years of age and with a build with a bias to fullness) who are very fit with neatly tailored trousers with tucks (in the photo above - one tuck turning into an arrow).
Cuffs (lapels)- one more detail, unpopular in our time and for this revered by connoisseurs. The name speaks for itself - these are the folded edges of the trousers, creating an additional layer around the shoe. If the trousers are properly sized at the ankle width and length, and well pressed, the cuff can be a great decorative element for an otherwise formal suit.
This mini-encyclopedia ends, who mastered - well done. I think that I will often refer readers of further materials to this, because, in my opinion, I have collected everything that was possible.
The material uses illustrations from Timelessman.com, SuitSupply, Styleforum.net and others.
Reposting to other resources - only with attribution ().
Details
Fitted fit
Rectangular lapels
Chest patch pocket
One inside pocket
Two slots on the back
No lining
silk
Silk is a natural fabric obtained from the cocoon of the silkworm caterpillar. Differs in smoothness, durability and noble gloss. Silk fabric has medium heat resistance and good hygroscopicity, it is easy to drape. This type of fabric does not stretch and does not shrink when washed, the surface has a noble sheen and tear resistance. One of the main advantages of silk is its ability to repel bacteria and unpretentiousness in use. When using silk, make sure that the fabric does not fade.
Cashmere is the down of several types of goats that live in the mountain ranges of China, India and Mongolia. The temperature in these areas in winter can drop to -30 degrees, so goats grow a thick undercoat. It is the material for making cashmere of the best quality. Goat down is combed out by hand and cleaned of debris and thicker wool. Ideal cashmere down has a thickness of no more than 16 microns in length, the length of the fluffs is no more than 36 mm. One goat only produces about 150 grams of pure cashmere per year, which is why a kilo of cashmere down can cost up to $100. Cashmere clothing retains heat for a long time, is pleasant to the touch, does not form pills and is durable. It is recommended to wash cashmere products only by hand, in cool water, using very mild detergents. Do not twist. Dry flat at room temperature.
wool
Wool is a group of natural fibers, the production of which uses the hair of various animals. Woolen fabric, due to its exceptional properties, remains one of the most sought after in the fashion industry. Such a fabric almost does not wrinkle, is durable, absorbs moisture well, perfectly retains heat and does not cause allergies. By type, wool is divided into ukle, baize, velor, gabardine, jersey, felt, flannel, tweed, drape, cashmere and cloth.
Men's jacket from the Neapolitan brand ISAIA. Model in blue with a small check pattern. The drawing imitates large texture and roughness. While the fabric itself is smooth. The material is made from 100% natural fibers: wool, cashmere and silk. This composition gives the fabric excellent properties: softness, pleasant to the touch texture, good thermoregulation (such a fabric retains body heat, but at the same time, protects against overheating). The cut of the jacket is straight, slightly fitted. This style will suit any type of figure. Two splines provide additional freedom of movement. The design of the model is informal: patch pockets, decorative patches made of natural suede on the elbows. Signature accent: The lapel buttonhole is adorned with a red coral sprig, which is the symbol of the fashion house and is said to bring good luck. A good choice for a casual business dress code or casual wardrobe. Pair with jeans and chinos. It will make an excellent style ensemble with a sports shirt and a knitted vest.
Details
Color: Blue Gingham
Fitted fit
Single breasted, two buttons
Rectangular lapels
The symbol of the brand "red coral branch" is located on the lapel of the product
Full length sleeves, one with a red label with the brand name
Decorative brown suede patches on the elbows
Chest patch pocket
Two patch pockets on the sides
One inside pocket
Two slots on the back
No lining
To paraphrase the famous saying, we can say that style lies in the details. These little things don't just add something, these little things form your style. One of the easiest, most affordable ways to spice up your style is to wear a pin, boutonniere, or tailcoat badge on your jacket lapel.
Classic old safety pins or a shiny lapel badge will definitely add flair to your wardrobe. Initially, pins and jacket badges served as a symbol of belonging to certain groups or political parties.
The lapel of your jacket is the outward representation of your personality. They are symbols of art, style, and an easy way to spice up your wardrobe.
Badges and pins for the lapel of a jacket have become more and more in demand in recent years. Of course, getting an individual style with a single badge or pin is not very easy, but in combination with this it will be much easier to do.
Lapel pins and pins continue to grow in popularity and there are many companies that make them, but if you're lucky enough, you can look for vintage pins, antique lapel pins. All this will definitely add charm and mystery.
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Jacket lapel pin
The pin is the original and most traditional style, and one of the easiest ways to add a gentlemanly touch to your look. They attach easily and securely to any jacket. In appearance, this is usually an ornament on a long needle, with a protective and fixing cap. To attach a pin to a jacket lapel, simply pierce the lapel of the jacket with the sharp end, then put on the protective cap.
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Boutonniere on the lapel of a jacket
A boutonniere is a badge made from a flower. Boutonnieres were popular before the invention of the lapel pin. And now, at weddings, you can increasingly meet the groom, whose jacket lapel is decorated with a boutonniere. The boutonniere is worn on the left side, over the heart. In addition, the boutonniere should not be small, it should be noticeable, but not too pronounced.
Flower pins are, of course, not made from a living flower. As a rule, they are made of cotton and silk. They can add a subtle touch of color or design and of course they have a longer lifespan than a real flower.
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Jacket lapel badge
The badge is the most modern type of decoration on the lapel of a jacket. Typically, badges indicate political affiliation or membership in certain clubs. Also, the badges on the jacket are often found among the military. If you visit an antique shop, you will see that most of the vintage lapel pins are military. This is due to the fact that initially the badges (or, in other words, francs) were a reduced copy of awards and orders. Badges tend to be very small and less intrusive, and don't clutter up the lapel of a jacket.
Jacket lapel badges come in two types: screw-nut closure and magnetic.
Magnetic clasps consist of two simple magnetic discs that hold the front and back of the badge together. They are perfect for those who don't want to have their clothes pierced. Their only drawback is that they are less secure and magnets lose their properties over time and the badge can be lost. Now there are badges with neodymium magnets, which are more durable.
Fasteners screw-nut- the safest and most durable badge fastening on the lapel of your jacket. A screw with a needle at the end pierces the lapel of a jacket, and a nut threaded onto the screw holds the badge firmly in place.
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How to wear
Of course, wearing them is appropriate. Lapel pins and boutonnieres are great for events such as weddings, anniversaries or celebrations. If you're going to be wearing a pin or boutonniere to work, then make sure it's appropriate for your workplace.
I would suggest having a few lapel accessories in your wardrobe: a boutonniere for a special occasion, a less modest pin for less formal celebrations or business meetings, and a badge for everyday wear to work. If you are not a politician, a military man and do not belong to a secret society, then you may well buy a badge with the flag of your state or the coat of arms of the city.
On the territory of Russia and the CIS countries, badges are rarely worn, and generally it is not customary to decorate the lapels of a jacket. An exception to this rule is festive days, on which a boutonniere can be pinned to the lapel, or the jacket can be decorated in some other way.
The way the badge is worn on the lapel of a jacket depends on the type of this decoration. Lapel badges vary:
- According to the method of fastening;
- According to the material from which the badge is made;
- According to the purpose and style of decoration.
Badges are usually attached to the lapel in one of three ways: on a pin, on a collet or on a special needle.
- Collet - a bar that is passed through the fabric through and through, and fixed on the other side with a special clamp. The collet serves for the most dense fastening of the decoration to the clothing material. Those insignia that are made to order are most often made with this type of fastening;
- A pin is the most popular method of fastening. Those icons that can be found on the free market often have just such a device;
- A needle with a special tip most often holds a tie pin, but sometimes such attachments are made for other insignia.
The most reliable fastening is a collet. The emblems, planted on the collet, hold very firmly, do not scroll and fit snugly to the fabric. Such jewelry cannot be accidentally hooked and torn off, unlike those that are held on with pins or needles. But it is quite difficult to buy an ornament that will be attached in this way, since they are sold only in specialized stores.
Lapel pins are made of brass, aluminum or steel, and sometimes other metals are used, including precious ones. As for the purpose of jewelry, most often on the lapel of a jacket they wear either insignia or signs of belonging to any social group. In both cases, they need to be worn in a certain way. As a rule, they are attached to the left lapel, that is, opposite the heart.
The tradition of wearing badges goes back to military insignia, buttonholes and shoulder straps. Initially, on the first models of jackets, there was a loop on the lapel, and on many models this element has survived to this day. If this loop exists, then the badge is attached in its place. If it is absent, then the emblem will have to be fixed “by eye”.
You need to fasten the decoration as follows: the badge is applied to the fabric so that there is a distance of 2-5 mm to the top and left edge of the lapel, and the emblem is placed vertically. Then, with a collet needle, it is necessary to pierce the material and fix the badge on the other side. As a rule, the collet has a thread at the end, and therefore it is not difficult to fix and remove the jewelry.
For many men, the question arises with what kind of jackets or blazers the emblem can be worn. Badges can be attached to the lapel of classic-cut jackets, and in some cases, sports-style jackets. A metal insignia will be appropriate even in a festive atmosphere, and therefore you can wear it even with a tailcoat, jacket or a festive suit. You can even attach a badge to a sporty blazer, although this type of item usually has embroidery or bright buttons on the lapel, and they do not need additional decorations.
We have already told how the “fifth” pocket on jeans appeared, and for this article we have compiled a selection of non-obvious details that you should pay attention to when you choose your jacket and shirt.
Blazer
The jacket confidently leads in terms of the number of details, whose origin, as well as functionality, are shrouded in a thick veil of mystery. Try to remember how many buttons are on your favorite jacket? One, two, three? In fact, at least seven: you just forgot about the buttons on the cuffs. These buttons are a legacy of the 19th century, when walking without a jacket was considered almost the height of indecency, and even surgeons sometimes wore jackets for operations. During dirty work, the sleeves were unbuttoned and rolled up to somehow protect them from stains. The conservatism of men's fashion has contributed to the fact that the buttons on the sleeves have survived to our time. Now, however, they are unbuttoned mainly on expensive jackets, over which a whole artel of tailors pored over. If you want your H&M jacket to be mistaken for the creation of thoughtful Italian fashion designers, arm yourself with a needle and thread and remember the labor lessons in the fourth grade. Realizing that the ability to cross-stitch will not help to open the buttonholes, you can take the jacket to a tailor who will do everything you need for a sum close to symbolic. An unbuttoned cuff button not only screams “My wearer can afford an expensive jacket!” but also makes you look less formal. We advise you not to overdo it and do not tuck the cuff - although, of course, you decide.
Another detail of the jacket, over the history of which the best minds of our generation are vigilantly struggling is the buttonhole in the lapel. On the left lapel of each jacket there is a small buttonhole similar to a button hole. In some models, a button is also found on the back of the right lapel, which can be buttoned up if it gets really cold. However, the buttonhole is mainly used for boutonnieres and flowers. If at the beginning of the last century, Bertie Wooster, a narrow-minded, but beautifully dressed hero of the novels of Palem Wodehouse, could buy a rose cut specially for a buttonhole from a street vendor, now it’s worth inserting a real flower into a buttonhole only on especially solemn occasions - while for less official events it’s suitable modest boutonniere. For example, like this:
The special charm of the details lies in the fact that they can be difficult to notice with the naked eye. This applies to the lining of the jacket to the fullest. Usually it is made from soft and inexpressive fabric, but with some desire and, again, a visit to the tailor, you can line the jacket to your taste. Moreover, the choice of jacket lining is that rare case when you can break away and afford a rich color or complex print. Here they will look more appropriate than anywhere else.
Blogger Karl-Edwin Herr captioned the photo: "Don't trust anyone who says 'no one will see the lining of your jacket.' Details are always important."
Shirt
When choosing a shirt, pay attention not only to how it sits on you, but also whether it is fitted. Fitted shirts are called with smooth cuts on the sides. Such shirts sit better on the figure and are not so much knocked out and puffed up when tucked into trousers. Some shirts have ribbing at the side cutouts for extra stretch. From the world of shirts, the side cut has even migrated to the realm of long-sleeved T-shirts.
Another important detail of a shirt is its cuffs. The difference between straight, cut and rounded cuffs is purely aesthetic.
Straight, due to their informality, will be better combined with a sweater, and rounded - with a jacket. Shirts with French or double cuffs stand apart. Such cuffs usually consist of two layers of fabric and therefore are somewhat thicker than their counterparts. In addition, they do not have buttons, so without cufflinks you will not be able to manage them. Shirts with French cuffs are best paired with a tuxedo, so if you're not the most frequent guest at social events, and photographers don't want to capture you on the red carpet, you're unlikely to need more than one shirt with cufflinks.
With buttons on a shirt, the situation is also not so simple. For example, on some shirts, the cut for the bottom button is not vertical, but horizontal - this is done so that when tilted, the shirt does not treacherously unbutton and expose to the world those parts of you that should not be seen by fragile minds. In addition to the horizontal slit, some manufacturers add contrast stitching to the last loop. This is primarily done for beauty.
However, if you are afraid of the possibility of being in the position of Tweek, the hero of South Park, who throughout the episodes of the series wears his shirt incorrectly buttoned, -
- take a closer look at the line of shirts from Gitman Vintage and start buttoning the shirt from the bottom contrasting button, you will avoid this disaster.
