Magnificent eternal fences from a natural stone. How to make a stone fence yourself

Strong, aesthetically pleasing and durable stone fencing can be an excellent protection for your home. To build a stone fence is quite within the power of every resident of a country house, the main thing is to try hard.

Pros and cons of stone fencing

Stone is one of the most common materials used to build fences. Stone fencing is a weighty argument that buyers take into account when buying a house.

Advantages of stone fences:

  1. Strength. It is quite difficult to break or make a hole in such a fence, you cannot do without special devices and tools, which means that your home will be under good protection.
  2. Durability. A stone fence can last for many years, centuries-old buildings are known, which become architectural monuments. Such fences easily endure adverse weather conditions: heat and cold, winds and rains.
  3. Presentability. Fencing buildings made of stone always catch the eye, because they are beautiful, moreover, they often testify to the wealth of the owners.
  4. Compatibility with other materials. The stone is easily assembled when building a fence with wooden and metal fragments. Often, forged metal delights or wooden elements become decorations for a stone fence.
  5. Fire resistance. A stone fence will become an effective fence against the penetration of fire into the territory of a suburban area from the outside.
  6. Environmental Safety. Stone is a natural material, so you can be one hundred percent sure that there are no dangerous effects of stone buildings on human health.
  7. No size restrictions. A stone fence can be built in the dimensions that are necessary according to the design idea, there are no "prohibitions" on the parameters, the stones can be laid out to the required height and width.

With all the positive characteristics of this material, some disadvantages of a stone fence should be taken into account:

  1. High cost. Stone is an expensive material, its installers also value their work not cheap, so a stone fence is a pleasure for wealthy people. It is possible to save money if you build such a fence yourself and collect stones for the construction of the fence.
  2. "Pickiness" of stone structures. The significant weight of such buildings implies the presence of a solid foundation under them, therefore stone structures need a reliable soil foundation, areas with soil vibrations, with nearby groundwater are unacceptable. A reliable and durable foundation is a prerequisite for the construction of a stone fence.
  3. The complexity of the process (the construction of a stone fence requires a lot of time and effort).

Choice of stone material

Having weighed all the pros and cons of stone fencing structures near houses or summer cottages, it is necessary to decide on the material from which the fence will be built.

To build a stone fence, you can use:

  • cobblestone;
  • pebbles;
  • limestone;
  • sandstone;
  • dolomite stone;
  • granite, etc.

Each of the listed materials helps to solve certain problems and, accordingly, is suitable for different protective structures. An important point when choosing a stone is its cost, which can also be different.

Preparatory stages

Like any serious project, building a stone fence with your own hands requires preliminary preparation. First you need to decide on the place and size of the future building, calculate, select and purchase material, acquire the necessary tools. The preparation also includes cleaning and leveling the site for the future fence. Any debris, trees and plants will interfere with the construction of the protective structure.

Based on the cost of the selected material and the dimensions of the fence, we draw up an estimate and figure out whether such construction is within our power. Of course, a self-built stone fence saves the cost of a team of builders. Therefore, we will try to do without hired workers, applying our own strengths and skills.

Area calculation

  1. Measure the width of the tape base of the fence and add eight centimeters on each side. For example, 45 + 16 = 61 cm (0.61 m) - this is the width of the foundation part of the fence.
  2. Measure the length of each side of the fence (from the corner posts). For example, let's take the length of each side - 10 meters.
  3. The base area of ​​each side of the stone fence is calculated as 10 m, multiplied by 0.61 m. It turns out 6.1 m 2.
  4. Further, this figure is multiplied by the number of sides of the fence (usually 4, but there may be options if one of the sides is being built by neighbors, etc.) 6.1 x 4 = 24.4 m².
  5. If the fence is not solid, but there are sections with a gate or garage doors, then subtract their dimensions from the resulting 24.4 m².
  6. When calculating the area, the area of ​​​​the pillars is also taken into account (if they are also made of stone).

In general, calculating the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe foundation of a stone fence is a purely individual matter; every novice builder can cope with this. If you doubt your abilities, contact the specialists who will make all the necessary calculations and draw up a project.

Fence dimensions

Depending on the functions assigned to the stone fence, the acceptable dimensions of this structure are selected. Fences can be low, in which case they play a decorative role rather than a protective one. Some owners use a stone in the fence to decorate their homes, here we are talking about the decorative function of a stone structure around a house or cottage. Such fences can be of completely different sizes and configurations.

The average parameters of a solid solid fence, behind which you can hide from prying eyes, are as follows: height - 2 meters, width of spans between racks - 2.5 meters, width of supporting pillars - half a meter.

Material selection

A fence built of cobblestone will be very durable and retain its natural flavor. However, under natural conditions, the choice of color for such a material is not very rich. You can dream up and arrange the cobblestones according to shades, or you can not go in cycles in color, relying on intuition.

Cobblestone can be acquired by walking through the fields, but it is better to purchase it in specialized stores. Usually they lay out a fence of stone specimens with one flat side, if there is none, then they cut the cobblestone. It is desirable that the cobblestones be approximately the same size. This will greatly speed up and simplify the construction process.

For the construction of complex structures, as well as for the design and strengthening of corners, pebbles and gravel should be taken. These small stones are also suitable for laying out patterns in a stone fence. Fencing entirely from this small stone is rarely made, it is used to fill the metal mesh in the construction of gabions.

Rubble stone is suitable for "playing" with the design. Buta produces unique beautiful spans with a unique configuration. The length of the edges of such stones varies between 55–400 mm, which is what original designers use in their style decisions. Rubble stone can be used both for the construction of the base of the fence, and for its finishing.

Dolomite has a big plus - a flat shape, it is obtained during blasting in quarries. Such a stone is more often used as a material for cladding, but its use as the basis of a fence is not excluded.

Limestone fencing is easier to build because it is softer than other stones, but this material is not suitable for building fences in areas with a humid climate. Limestone (shell stone) does not withstand high humidity and low temperatures, and buildings from it begin to quickly collapse. If you nevertheless took this stone as the basis for the construction, then in order to extend its service, try to treat the limestone with special compounds - water repellents.

Durable, resistant to sub-zero temperatures material - sandstone. It has been used by builders since ancient times for various works. The advantages of this material are in its multifaceted color shades (stones of green-blue, yellow, red, brown colors are found on sale), which allows them to be used in accordance with the design of the entire site. During construction, you can take sandstone with a different surface - chipped or polished. Sandstone is often used even when laying the foundation, this is due to its high strength.

Material calculation

Before proceeding with mathematical operations, you need to determine the entire list of necessary materials (in addition to the stone itself):

  • material for waterproofing;
  • fittings for poles;
  • reinforcing bars (d = 10–12 mm);
  • boards for the construction of formwork;
  • sand, gravel, cement.

On the Internet resources you can find programs that allow you to calculate the required amount of materials.

The base of the fence is an expanded area for pillars and "ribbons" between them, filled with concrete. Piles are used to strengthen this structure. An example of the calculation can be seen in the figure below. The calculation algorithm can be as follows:

  1. Calculation of the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe foundation of the supporting column - we multiply the values ​​\u200b\u200bof the width, length and height.
  2. The total amount of concrete for the posts will be equal to the area of ​​​​the foundation of 1 column, multiplied by the number of supports.
  3. The volume of concrete mix for the base of the spans between the posts is calculated by multiplying the length, width and height of this part of the fence.
  4. The number of spans, multiplied by the number obtained in the previous paragraph, gives the total volume of concrete to fill all spans.
  5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 to determine the amount of concrete mix for piles.
  6. Adding all the volumes, we find the value of the total amount of concrete for the fence.

Required tool

In order for the work to be argued and not to stop, try to stock up in advance with everything necessary for construction. You will need:

  • shovels of different types (shovel, bayonet);
  • concrete mixer (or improvised means that replace it);
  • sets of containers of various sizes (for concrete, water);
  • hammers, sledgehammers (for crushing stones, driving piles, etc.);
  • plumb or level;
  • roulette;
  • a device for measuring angles (an ordinary square of large sizes is suitable);
  • screwdriver, nails, screws;
  • welding machine (can be replaced with wire) - for fastening reinforcement bars;
  • stakes and cord (for marking).

Stages of building a stone fence

After carrying out the preparatory work, you can proceed to the actual construction of the fence. This process is time-consuming and difficult, so you should stock up on patience and perseverance.

Foundation laying

Strip foundation - the basis and guarantee that the fence will last a long time. This structure must be continuous, even in those places where there will be openings (gates, gates, etc.).

The sequence of actions during the construction of the foundation of the fence is as follows:

  1. With the help of a cord and pegs, we mark the future fence. You can use the services of professionals to determine the boundaries and locations of the fence posts.

    Fence marking - a necessary stage in the construction of the fence

  2. On the marked area, we dig a trench, the width of which should be 8 centimeters more than the width of the fence on each side. For example, the width of the fence is supposed to be 30 cm, which means that you need to dig a trench 46 cm wide.
  3. We lay a layer of sand at the bottom of the dug hole and tamp it down. From improvised wooden materials (boards, plywood, etc.), we construct a formwork (slightly higher than the proposed strip foundation), lay the reinforcement.
  4. With the help of a special shovel (screw) we make holes for piles up to 70 cm deep and 15 cm wide. We also place sand at the bottom of these recesses and tamp them down.
  5. On top of the sand we pour our gravel 10 cm thick.

    On the marked area, we dig a trench, the width of which should be 8 centimeters more than the width of the fence on each side

  6. Then we fill the trench with formwork and piles with a concrete mixture. The reinforcement must be covered with concrete by at least 20 mm. A mandatory action is the compaction of concrete, for this a deep vibrator is used. Concrete should be poured in a continuous stream, at one time, avoiding the separation of this process for several days. Hollow concrete cubes - foundation cups - will help in strengthening the entire fence structure. You can make them yourself, or you can buy them ready-made, but you will have to pay a fairly large amount.
  7. After pouring, we withstand more than a week, while it is desirable to build a blind area - to protect the foundation. You can use sheets of roofing material or thick polyethylene. Periodic moistening of the poured foundation will give the structure additional strength and protect it from cracking.
  8. After the concrete has hardened, we remove the formwork and clean the top layer of the foundation from debris and dirt.

    The poured concrete is covered with roofing material

Stone preparation

While the foundation is going through the solidification stage, you can not waste time and prepare the stone. Sorting, cleaning and drying of material are mandatory manipulations during construction. If the stones are too convex, their surface is cut off with a hammer and other tools, trying to give them a flat shape.

Larger stones are set aside for the installation of support posts, small specimens are prepared for use in the construction of spans. You can also disassemble the stones by color, dividing suitable color shades into groups.

Pole installation

The rigidity of the structure and its reliability largely depend on the supporting pillars. Racks are installed on concrete bowls that were built earlier. Support poles can be built in a variety of ways. It is convenient to use a sliding formwork for these purposes (a box of boards of the required dimensions, without a bottom). This formwork is located in such a way that the channel is in the middle, then the solution is poured.

The following manipulations are repeated for each row of stones:

  • select stones of the right size;
  • they are laid tightly against the walls of the formwork;
  • take out the stacked stones;
  • prepare a solution;
  • stones are laid and fixed with mortar.

Watch the solution carefully - it should not be too liquid. When the formwork is filled to the end with rows of stones with mortar, you need to “build up” the formwork by placing a second wooden box without a bottom on the first one and fastening them with self-tapping screws. All actions are repeated until the second box is filled. Then you need to wait at least a day for the resulting part of the column to dry out, and continue this process until the support is built to the desired height. The first part of the formwork must be removed, leaving the second, and the third level of support must be attached to it, etc. Mortar must be added to the seams between the stones (cement - 1 part, sand - 3 parts). Excess solution and dirt must be removed with a foam sponge dipped in water.

Photo gallery: installation steps for supporting fence posts

Stone laying

In parallel with the installation of pillars, it is possible to carry out work on laying stones in spans. The optimal size of stones is 20–25 cm. The sequence of actions is as follows:

  1. Apply cement mortar to the base of the foundation (cement:sand = 1:3).
  2. Lay out the first row of stones, turning them flat side up.
  3. Between the stones, pour a solution into which you can add a color scheme of a certain color. To avoid hardening of the solution, these manipulations are carried out quickly, without rest.
  4. After laying one row, give it time to harden and only after that continue laying the stones.

Video: building a stone fence

Tips from seasoned builders:

  1. When working with the solution, make sure that its particles do not fall on the front of the stones. If you notice the solution on the stones, then it must be urgently removed, preventing hardening. If, nevertheless, areas of stones with a hardened solution have formed, use a metal brush mounted on a drill to remove it.
  2. Start laying out spans from the outer borders.
  3. Use a cord or rope stretched from the beginning to the end of the span - for orientation in laying rows of stones, so that the fence is smooth, without distortions.
  4. Use dressing - laying the stones of the upper row with support from the stones of the second or third underlying row.
  5. To get a smooth edge of the fence, select stones of the same height for the last row. The same result can be achieved by applying a cement screed.

There is an old way of laying stone that does not require mortar. In this case, the building will not be fragile, as it might seem at first glance. If you are interested in this method - watch the video on this topic.

Video: laying stone without mortar

Completion of stone fence construction

To make your structure look neat and not look like a pile of stones, you need to give it a finished look. For this, stitching is done. The solution fills the seams between the stones at different depths, due to which it is possible to achieve a decorative look of the fence.

The most convenient time for such manipulations is 3-4 hours after laying the stones, later it will be more difficult to do this, because the solution will become tight and less pliable. For jointing, use trowels, scrapers, a metal brush, foam rubber and hydrochloric acid solution (30%), do not forget about safety precautions and put on rubber gloves. To divert excess liquid, special caps are put on the pillars.

Decorating a stone fence is a purely individual matter. You can add decorative elements made of wood, forged fragments, drawings from small stones, giving the fence a special beauty and originality.

Building a stone fence with your own hands is a long and laborious process, but the result will please its creator and everyone around. Try to build a stone fence yourself and you will not regret it!

Even today you can see elements of fences built by our ancestors centuries ago. Initially, the essence of the construction of fences was only to protect their territory from outside encroachments. But a person is characterized by a sense of beauty, as well as anxiety about how others perceive him - he needs more beautiful, more useful and more durable. And which of the natural materials is best suited for the construction of such a fence? Correctly! A natural stone.

How to arrange a stone fence on the site

Installing a fence on your land is an old tradition. Originally intended for protection, at present it has also become an element of decor and an indicator of the status of the owner.

One of the popular materials for the fence device is building stone of natural or artificial origin. The reason is its strength and durability, allowing stone structures to serve many generations of people. The widest choice and the natural beauty of the material make it possible to fit such a fence into the exterior of any site.

Advantages and disadvantages of stone fences

Speaking about the positive qualities and disadvantages of stone fences, we will make a reservation that qualified manufacturing of such buildings is implied. The advantages should include:

  1. Durability of fences. They can serve for many decades and even centuries.
  2. Environmental friendliness. Natural materials do not harm the environment.
  3. The ability to harmoniously fit a stone fence into the surrounding landscape.
  4. Resistant to the effects of any climatic phenomena.
  5. A variety of types of stone and ample opportunities when choosing laying methods.
  6. Excellent compatibility with other materials such as wood, metal, corrugated sheet and more.

A fence made of such material can be inexpensive, especially when building with your own hands, but it can also emphasize the elitism of the site when using beautiful expensive stones.

With many positive qualities, stone fences have a significant drawback - high labor intensity of manufacture. Being a heavy structure, such a fence requires a powerful foundation.

Types of stones for the fence

Building stone for the fence can be purchased at hardware stores or markets. If possible, you can prepare it yourself. For masonry, the following types of stone are usually used:

  1. Boulders or cobblestones. They are inexpensive and widely distributed in nature. The stone is durable, resistant to the effects of the natural environment. Easily processed by chipping, which allows for masonry fitting in place. The most common gray or brown-reddish color.
  2. Granite. Strong and durable material, processing is difficult. In appearance, it sometimes resembles marble.
  3. Dolomite. A stone of a beautiful texture, usually flat in shape. It has high strength characteristics, but is easy to process. It comes in different colors, in nature it is white or gray.

    Fences made of dolomite (flagstone) are technologically advanced, beautiful and durable

  4. Limestone, also called shell rock. The material is light in weight and very porous. It has a pleasant appearance, which is used for finishing work. It has low thermal conductivity, therefore it is used for the construction of buildings. The mineral is easy to process, while showing enviable durability in mid-latitude climates. At high humidity, the surface of this material must be additionally treated with water-repellent compounds.
  5. Sandstone. Very beautiful natural stone of various colors. It is close to granite in strength.
  6. Pebble. It has a very beautiful appearance, in construction it is used as an auxiliary material for filling voids in the process of building stone fences.
  7. Booth. This term defines shapeless stones of various types.

Fences made of artificial building stone are also popular. Usually these are concrete-based materials with the addition of various dyes. With performance characteristics similar to natural stone, fences made of such material are erected with much lower labor costs.

Preparing to build a fence

To prepare for the construction of the fence, you need to calculate the need for materials and the cost of them in order to assess your financial capabilities. For this you need:

  1. Calculate the area that the fence itself will occupy. This will allow you to correctly determine the amount of concrete and reinforcement to create the base plate. Its width depends on the bearing capacity of the soil under the foundation. This is a strictly individual indicator for each site. It is determined by specialists based on the results of exploratory drilling at the construction site and laboratory analysis of samples. Such a service can cost 6-9 thousand rubles, but these costs can be offset by saving materials.
  2. Determine the height of the foundation. The indicator depends on the presence and magnitude of the slope. The normal protrusion of the concrete foundation above the surface is 15–20 centimeters. Given the slope, it can be higher.
  3. Calculate the width of the base for the fence. It depends on the caliber of the stones used for the construction. From practice it has been established that it should be at least two maximum sizes. A normal indicator is considered to be a fence thickness of 60-80 centimeters.
  4. Based on the above indicators, calculate the volume of concrete that will be needed to build the foundation of the fence.

This is the first stage of the calculation, the results of which may have to be corrected.

  1. Determine the main material for the fencing device. This means that the choice consists in assigning the desired type of material to a certain fraction. Thus, the thickness of the span of the fence is determined.
  2. Using the height of the span, assigned by the builder, it is possible to calculate the amount of material required for one section.
  3. Based on the data on the specific gravity of the material, the mass of material for the span of the fence is calculated.
  4. Knowing the weight of the material and the mass of the foundation, which was determined earlier, it is possible to calculate the specific load on the soil of the foundation and the upper structure of the fence. If it exceeds the permissible loads, consider using another material or a combined fence design with partial use of substitutes.

An example of calculating materials for a fence

First of all, we define the object of calculation. It is most convenient to calculate the need for one span, consisting of a column and a jumper between individual sections.

The dimensions of the pillar are determined by the quality of the soil and the depth of soil freezing in the construction region. The sole of the post must in any case be below this point. To install it, you need to dig or drill a hole of the required depth plus 35-40 centimeters. This "plus" is needed for drainage of gravel and sand with a layer of up to 30 centimeters, which must be carefully tamped and spilled with water to compact.

Drilling a hole for the base of the pillar can be done with an ordinary garden drill. After the drainage device, the metal base of the column is vertically installed on the bottom, for which you can use:

  • metal beam or channel from No. 12;
  • round galvanized pipe with a diameter of 100–120 mm;
  • square pipe 60x60 or 100x100 millimeters;
  • corner 150x150 millimeters;
  • square or round frame of reinforcement or mesh.

The base of the column is lowered into the pit and it is concreted with a mortar of brand 200 to the level of the base of the foundation. Next, you need to install the formwork and in one go fill the rest of the foundation with preliminary reinforcement.

Photo gallery: phased construction of the foundation for a stone fence

Rods give the pillars strength for many years Formwork installation is carried out carefully and strictly according to the rules to ensure the strength of the foundation Proper pouring and exposure of the foundation gives it high durability. Support base for stone fence

The calculation of the number of sections for a fence 36 meters long (approximately 10 acres with a square plot) is as follows:

  1. We take into account the length of the gate and wicket space. For gates, the distance between the axes of the supporting pillars is 3.6–4.2 meters, for the gate 1.8–2.2 meters. The total length of the unfenced area will be (on average) 3.9 + 2.0 = 5.9 meters.
  2. The length of the fence when fencing the rest of the space will be 36.0 - 5.9 = 30.1 meters.
  3. The distance between the axes of the fence posts should be 2.5–3.0 meters, we calculate the number of sections: 30.1: 2.75 = 10.95, we accept 11 pieces.
  4. Further, the volume of each component section is multiplied by their number and we get the need for each material separately.

Instruments

When erecting a fence, a number of different operations are performed in turn, each of which requires a specific set of different tools. The main tools are listed in the table.

Table: basic tools for pouring the foundation

Stage of workContents of operationInstrumentsNotes
1. Site clearingRemoval of vegetation and soil layerShovels bayonet and shovel
2. Marking the foundationTaking measurements and tightening the cords along the contour of the support baseConstruction cord, wooden pegs, axe, hammer
3. Digging a trenchExcavationShovels bayonet and shovel
4. Tampering the bottom of the trench with a vibrating plateCompaction of the soil base along the bottom of the trenchvibrating plateRent possible
5. Drainage device along the bottom of the trenchBackfilling a layer of gravel 30 centimeters thick and sand 15 centimeters, tamping by hand, wateringShovels bayonet and shovel, garden wheelbarrow, rammer, garden hose
6. Formwork installationInstalling a foundation fence made of wood and face slabs: sawing beams and boards, sharpening stakes and dowels, assembling the frame with nails, installing face slabs and spacers with screwsHacksaw, axe, hammer, screwdriver
7. Fitting installationCutting bars of required length. Laying bars in a trench, knitting reinforcing meshBulgarian, side cutters, pliers
8. Preparation of concrete solutionDosing of components, mixing and mixing solutionShovel shovel, concrete mixer, bucketconcrete mixer rental available
9. Pouring the foundationSupply of mortar into the trench, tamperShovel shovel, manual rammer, vibratorit is possible to rent a vibrator
10. Control of horizontal foundationChecking the fill with an instrumental methodBuilding laser level
11. Formwork dismantlingDismantling the foundation fenceCrowbar, crowbar with nail puller, hammer

Stone fence device step by step

One of the reasons for not using natural building stone is the difficulty of masonry. But if you understand and understand the principle, there is nothing particularly complicated in it.

Methods of laying from natural stones

There are several ways of laying natural stone.

Masonry "wild"

The wall is formed from stones of indefinite shape and different sizes. The stone is laid on the base, the next one is carefully selected according to the maximum adjoining to the previous one. The flat edge is oriented to the front side of the fence. Stones are fastened with masonry mortar. One span is filled between the pillars, while the work must be stopped when the first signs of the mortar hardening appear. Next, you need to cut the seams. To do this, use a durable plastic bag filled with a solution. The solution is fed to the seam through the cut corner and distributed over the unfilled places, then the seams are cut. A large stone is placed along the front and rear plane of the masonry, the middle is clogged with debris and gravel, poured with mortar, and rammed. The best materials for such masonry are shale, rubble, dolomite and sandstone.

Plank masonry

The principle is the same, but the stones before laying are subjected to squaring to give a shape close to rectangular.

Laying flat horizontal

It is carried out with oblong stones of layered minerals of natural origin, which are placed horizontally when laid.

Laying flat vertical

The same materials are used, only they are oriented in the vertical direction.

rubble masonry

For it, rounded stones of approximately the same size are used. Masonry is made using formwork. The gaps between the stones are filled with gravel of medium fraction and filled with masonry mortar. As the space fills up, the formwork builds up and work continues.

For laying walls made of natural stone, experience and certain skills are needed. However, starting from a non-responsible site, any home master is able to quickly understand the principle of action and do the work on their own with high quality. However, it must be remembered that this work will require a considerable investment of time and effort.

Finishing work

Above, we have already considered the procedure for performing preparatory work during the construction of the fence. Speaking of the final phases, you need to cut the seams. To do this, you need a tool:

  • metal brush;
  • scraper;
  • seam trowel;
  • sponge.

How the seams are filled with a solution bag, we have already discussed above. Stitching is done 3-4 hours after filling. Otherwise, the mass will begin to harden and the formation of joints will be problematic.

First, the surface of the stones must be cleaned with a brush from traces of the solution. After that, you need to form the seams using a trowel or scraper.

To give the fence a final look, it must be washed. Hard-to-remove traces of masonry mortar can be removed using a solution of hydrochloric acid at a concentration of about 30% and a sponge. The operation must be performed with rubber gloves. Otherwise, chemical burns cannot be avoided.

The final operation in the construction of the fence is the installation of caps on the poles and the top on the spans of the fence. This will prevent water from getting inside the masonry. Otherwise, when it freezes, the entire structure may be destroyed.

  1. Starting construction on a suburban area, you need to consider the harmony of the composition. The color scheme of the roof of the house should be in harmony with the tone of the fence. In this case, the exterior will look like a single whole.
  2. At the end of the installation of the fence, it is desirable to cover it with a special varnish. It will highlight all the natural beauty of the stone. This operation is mandatory in case of high porosity of the material.
  3. If the site has a slope, it is necessary to provide for the installation of drainage holes at the foundation stage at the lower points. This will prevent the accumulation of water in the area.
  4. The remains of stone from the construction of the fence can be used to pave sidewalks on the site.

Video: natural stone fence device

Each owner who dreams of making not only the house, but also all the buildings on the site truly exclusive, thinks about how to fence his site with a fence. A stone fence is an ideal option to give completeness to the appearance of a building. Yes, and costs can be greatly reduced if you build this structure with your own hands.

Natural stone has been used in building and interior decoration for thousands of years. However, now such material is very expensive. However, there is a way out. You can make an artificial stone with your own hands, and it will practically not differ from natural. The price of such a product will be much lower than natural.

The use of stone in interior decoration allows you to achieve completely unexpected results. You can decorate the room in the style of a knight's castle, a fireplace framed in slate will look especially attractive, and columns trimmed with stone will look beautiful.

However, with all its richness of forms and colors, natural stone also has disadvantages. These include:

  • high price;
  • heavy weight, not every wall can withstand such an additional load;
  • significant transportation costs.

In order to be able to use stone in interior decoration and overcome the described shortcomings, an artificial stone manufacturing technology was created.

Cladding with artificial stone

Outwardly, natural and artificial stone are practically indistinguishable, at the same time, the latter is devoid of all the shortcomings of natural stone and can be made to imitate any natural stone, and even its texture is repeated. By the type of surface, an artificial stone can be:

  • chipped, as if beaten off by a hammer and having an uneven surface and edges;
  • sawn, having smooth, even edges;
  • rubble, resembling ordinary natural boulders;
  • arbitrary, embodying the designer's fantasies in form and surface;
  • decorative.





For specific design tasks, a wide variety of types of surfaces may be required - for finishing a fireplace, arches, columns. You may need stones with elements of a marine theme, for example, with traces of shells. So in the manufacture of artificial stone with your own hands, you can get exactly what you need according to the requirements of the plan for finishing a specific surface. One of the most popular types of stone is slate.

What is artificial stone made of?

Strange as it may seem, there are several different options for making a stone. According to one technology, cement, fine sand, and water are used. According to another, they are made of gypsum or alabaster. There is a manufacturing option when polymeric materials are used as a binder. Therefore, the composition of artificial stone for production on its own can be determined based on the available materials and the ability to manufacture stone.
The entire manufacturing procedure is not super complicated and can be performed by anyone with a certain diligence and careful observance of technology. This does not even require special conditions, work can be performed directly in the apartment. Therefore, the material proposed below can be perceived as a kind of instruction for the manufacture of artificial stone.

Manufacturing process

The main materials for the manufacture of stone, as noted above, are cement and gypsum, or alabaster. In any case, using gypsum or cement, the manufacture of an artificial stone with your own hands begins with the selection of the initial sample and the creation of a mold in which the stone will be cast in the future.

Having several such models, it will be possible to quickly produce the required amount of stone. As a model stone, it will be justified to buy several stone samples that are suitable in shape and size in a store.

Although you can use commercially available ready-made silicone models. They are a ready-made kit for the manufacture of artificial stone.

How to make a model

The production of the mold begins with the choice of a sample, for the role of which a stone suitable in shape and size is selected. For the form in which the stone will be cast in the future, silicone is used. Make or use an appropriately sized box, slightly larger than the reference stone. This box will serve as the formwork.
It and the selected stone must be coated with a thick layer of grease or some other lubricant. The stone is placed at the bottom of the box. It is necessary to make several pieces of such formworks and forms to increase productivity.

After that, silicone is poured into the formwork. To compact it, it is rammed with an ordinary paint brush moistened with soapy water. As the latter, you can use the usual Fairy. After filling the mold with silicone, the surface is leveled with a spatula moistened with Fairy.
The filled molds dry for two to three weeks, after which the formwork is disassembled, the sample stone is removed, and ready-made silicone molds for artificial stone are obtained. If there are small defects on the surface, they are sealed with silicone.
True, here there is an alternative option for making a mold, but it will be possible to return to this a little later, after we fully consider the technology of manufacturing artificial stone that has been started.

Getting from cement

At this stage, the work is carried out in several passes. Initially, cement and sand for the first layer are mixed in a ratio of 3: 1, everything is mixed until a homogeneous mixture is formed. The desired color is obtained by adding dyes, approximately 2-3% of the amount of cement, but this must be established empirically. Water is added to the finished mixture and stirred until approximately thick sour cream, dyes are mixed with water.

The resulting mixture is laid out in a mold to about half and compact everything by tapping and shaking for about a minute. Then a metal mesh is placed over the finished solution to give additional strength to the stone and poured with a second layer of the solution. To save money, you can not add dye to the second portion of concrete.

On the top layer of the solution after pouring, small grooves are made with a nail or any stick for better adhesion to the wall during installation. As can be seen from the described technology, it is quite simple and allows you to do without special equipment for the manufacture of artificial stone.

After twelve hours, the stone is removed from the mold and left to dry and gain strength for two weeks. After removing the stone, the mold is washed with Fairy, this procedure must be repeated after each pouring.

Gypsum production

It should be noted that the manufacture of artificial stone from gypsum is carried out in the same sequence. There are only nuances associated with the fact that gypsum quickly hardens. Therefore, it must be prepared as much as necessary to make one stone, then it is necessary to breed a new portion. Citric acid can be added to gypsum to slow down the setting.

The holding time for solidification of the material will be different, this procedure takes several tens of minutes. Before pouring gypsum into the mold, it is necessary to lubricate it with oil to calmly remove the finished stone from the mold.

If there is a desire and opportunity, then according to the described technology, you can organize the production of artificial stone with your own hands. Moreover, a stone made of cement can be used for both interior and exterior decoration.

Coloring of artificial stone

In the manufacture of stone, we added a dye to its composition. However, you can simply paint it with paint after manufacturing. This requires special paint and a brush of any size. The painting process is as follows:

  1. it is necessary to wipe the surface of the stone with a clean cloth and remove sand, dust, cement;
  2. apply with a brush on the front surface with a uniform layer of paint;
  3. after the paint has dried, it is possible to apply a second and third layer to achieve the desired shade.

Manufacturing alternatives and tutorials

Now you can consider the option of how to make an artificial stone without using a sample and silicone. All this is shown in the video:

As you can see from the above example, you can generally do without any expensive materials.
It should be noted that the stone can be made using ready-made sets. They include a ready-made polyurethane form. How to make such products with it, in the following video:

Artificial stone, installation

Artificial stone can be mounted on virtually any surface, up to wood and drywall. When installing a stone on a tree, special surface preparation will be required, it will be necessary to make additional moisture insulation and crate. At the same time, when installing stone on brick or concrete, no additional work is required, only surface leveling.

Fastening the stone to the wall can be carried out using cement mortar or using special adhesive solutions or special types of glue. Installation can be done with or without seams.

When installing with jointing, a gap remains between the stones, its size should not exceed 2.5 centimeters, which is then filled with grout. This option is more economical, but for some types of stone, laying with jointing is simply not suitable, they only need to be laid completely.

Before starting the installation, the stones are laid out on the floor and their best location is selected, if necessary, adjusting to each other.

Laying stone begins with corner elements, then around window and door openings. And only after that are the installation of horizontal rows.

The process of stone installation can be viewed on the video:

It should be noted that additional care for the surface lined with artificial stone is not required. As a protective measure, you can protect the wall from excessive moisture. This is done with the help of special compounds. After application, they make the stone water-repellent.

Do-it-yourself artificial stone is a great opportunity to get very impressive results in interior decoration through the use of such an extraordinary material. And all this can be done by yourself without significant costs and the use of special equipment.

The fence from a stone has a set of distinctive features and advantages. Such fences are characterized by incredible reliability, texture and durability. For construction, you can use the most diverse stone material, which allows you to translate into reality an infinite number of design ideas - the finished structure can harmoniously fit into any landscape.

The service life of a stone fence as such has no limits. It all depends on the quality of the masonry mortar and the correctness of the work. The arrangement of the fence must be approached with the utmost responsibility. Of course, for this you can invite a team of professional builders, but in such a situation you will have to spend a lot of money. And why do this if you can handle all the necessary measures on your own?

First of all, we choose the material for the construction of our fence. We can lay out rubble or hewn stone. Hewn stones are called stones with specific sizes and a certain shape. They are best used for masonry. In the absence of experience in laying stone, pillars are definitely recommended to be built from hewn elements.

The rubble stone has an irregular shape and allows you to build structures with a unique design. It is from this material that it is recommended to lay out spans - it will turn out very beautiful and original.

Among the most popular materials for laying stone fences are limestone and dolomite, as well as granite and sandstone.

We buy or extract the required amount of the selected stone on our own, and then we prepare the following working tools:

  • a concrete mixer or a container for preparing a mortar manually;
  • roulette;
  • shovel;
  • Master OK;
  • level;
  • rods and cord for marking.

A few words about preparation for work

After preparing all the necessary tools, we proceed to planning. We need to draw a sketch of the future fence, taking into account the features of its spatial placement and size. In terms of dimensions, focus entirely on your preferences and financial capabilities. The average height of such fences is 2-2.5 m.

We clear the site from plants and debris, level the ground and transfer the drawing to the area. For marking, we use any stable rods and a strong rope. We drive the marking posts into the ground along the perimeter of the future structure, pull the cord between them and proceed to the next step.

We make the foundation

The stone structure will have a solid weight, so before starting its construction, we must pay due attention to the arrangement of the foundation. We will build a fence on a solid tape reinforced base - the best option for a heavy fence.

We make the width of the foundation approximately 15 cm more than that of the finished fence. The height of the base (part of the base protruding above the ground) is chosen at our discretion. Builders recommend that it be at least 10-15 cm. We will focus on this value during the further construction of the formwork.

First step. We dig a trench about 70 cm deep.

Second step. We fill the bottom of the pit with a 5-centimeter layer of sand. The pillow is carefully tamped.

Third step. We install formwork. It can be assembled from boards, plywood and other suitable materials.

Fourth step. We lay a reinforcing frame on a sand cushion. To strengthen the fence, 8 mm bars will be enough. Reinforcing in 2 layers. First, we lay a mesh of reinforcement at a height of 50 mm from the sand cushion.

We fix the second grid 50 cm below the ground level. To fasten both reinforcing layers and additionally strengthen the foundation, we first drive reinforcement or pipes with a diameter of about 10 mm into the ground.

Fifth step. We pour concrete. We remove the formwork after at least 2 weeks. The concrete itself will gain strength in about 1 month.

We build pillars

We will build the pillars using the sliding formwork method. The recommended dimensions of the pillars are 300x300 or 400x400 mm at your discretion. We will assemble the formwork itself from boards, fastening them with self-tapping screws.

First step. We expose the formwork for the first row of stones. We maintain the selected dimensions of the pillars.

Second step. Temporarily lay out the first layer of the column without mortar. Stones should fit to the walls of the formwork as tightly as possible. We exclude gaps between masonry elements.

Third step. Having carefully calibrated the stones for laying the first row, we lay them already using the mortar. We use a thick cement mixture. If the stones have even edges, simply lay them on the mortar like a brick. If the edges of the elements are uneven, you will have to tinker a little longer. In such a situation, we additionally pour the solution into the gaps between the stones. Similarly, we will lay out all subsequent rows.

Fourth step. Having filled one row of formwork, we put another on top of it and continue laying the pillar. We will follow a similar sequence further on.

Fifth step. After waiting a day after laying out the first tier, we dismantle the lower part of the formwork. At the same time, we leave the overlying fragment in order to be able to fasten the next tier of the wooden structure.

Having removed part of the formwork, we carefully seal the gaps between the stones with a thick cement mortar, providing a neat appearance of the pillar and making it more durable. In the future, we will perform stitching. Guidance for this work will be given below.

Helpful advice! To ensure that the masonry does not collapse, we give each of its tiers the opportunity to gain strength within a day, and only after that we continue to work.

Laying out spans

The foundation and pillars are ready. We can start laying out spans. The optimal size of stones for laying sections is up to 20-25 cm. Such elements are relatively light in weight, which makes working with them easier and more convenient. If necessary, we break large stones into smaller fragments with a hammer or crush them with a perforator.

We will fasten the stones with a thick mortar from a portion of cement and three portions of sand. If we want to get seams of a color different from the solution, we add dry dye to the mixture.

As a rule, the width of the stone pillar exceeds that of the span section. In view of this, the wall must be evenly displaced in relation to the outer and inner sides of the pillars.

We perform the work in the following sequence.

First step. We apply the cement mixture to the base.

Second step. Symmetrically lay out the stones on both sides of the span. We connect the edges of the section with a thread. We will be guided by it during further laying.

Third step. Completely lay out the first row of the span, filling the space between the faces laid out in the previous step. Stones are best placed flat side up. Cracks and voids are filled with a thick cement mixture.

We give the masonry to gain strength during the day and similarly lay the next row. So we work until the planned height is reached. Rows are strongly recommended to lay out with dressing.

Helpful advice! To get an even upper line of the fence, we lay out the last row of each span from stones of the same height.

In the process of laying, we work with the utmost care. We try to prevent the cement mixture from getting on the front side of the masonry elements. If the solution does get on the stones, we immediately clean it off.

Fence Finish

To make the fence look more attractive, we perform stitching. They can be convex, shallow and deep. The third option allows you to visually expand the volume of masonry. Otherwise, be guided by your preferences and features of the design idea.

For stitching, we prepare the following:

  • wire brush;
  • scraper;
  • foam rubber.

Seams are most easily embroidered 3-4 hours after laying. Further, the cement mixture becomes too tight and difficult to joint.

We work in that order.

First step. We clean the stones and seams with a wire brush.

Second step. Using a scraper, we create neat grooves in the seams up to 10-20 mm deep (at our discretion).

Third step. My fence. To do this, we use foam rubber, a brush and a solution of 30% hydrochloric acid. We observe precautionary measures: we work with acid in protective gloves.

The fence is ready.

Additionally, to decorate the fence and ensure quick removal of atmospheric moisture, we install special caps on the poles. If desired, the design of the fence can be supplemented with all kinds of forged elements - this remains at the discretion of the owner.

How to make a gabion fence

The process of making a gabion fence. Installation of gabions does not require special preparatory work. The walls of the boxes and the covers are interconnected by special spirals or strapping wire. Then the boxes are filled with natural material. In the central part it is allowed to lay stones of a smaller size, and at the edges necessarily large ones. When laying stones, it is necessary to reduce the formation of voids. The gabion is filled gradually, first by one third, after which the box is fixed from the inside, then the procedure is repeated

Length x Width x Height, meterCell, cmWeight of 1 grid, kg
1x0.5x0.5 (Zn 240gr/sq.m.)6x106,8
1x0.5x1 (Zn 240gr/sq.m.)6x1013
2x0.5x0.5 (Zn 240gr/sq.m.)6x1012
2x0.5x1 (Zn 240gr/sq.m.)6x1018,5

Successful work!

Video - Installation of a gabion fence

Video - Construction of a gabion fence

Video - Do-it-yourself natural stone fence

Currently, for the construction of fences, there is a huge variety of materials and technologies. Stone is considered the most durable of all. From it are obtained reliable, textured and durable fences. For the construction of such a fence, you can hire craftsmen, but why overpay if it is quite possible to build it on your own? Let's understand the intricacies of the process.

Pros and cons of stone fences (table)

+ -
The service life of a stone fence is at least half a century. It all depends on how responsibly you approach the masonry process.Some types of stones have a very high price.
The stone is an environmentally friendly and safe raw material, as it belongs to natural materials.The stone fence is very heavy, so its construction will require a solid and powerful foundation.
A wide price range, which depends on the type of stones and their fractions.
Fireproof material.
It is easy to mount.
Due to the aesthetic properties of the stone, the fence will go well with any landscape.
The stone can be combined with other materials.

Varieties of stones

Fences made of stone began to build a long time ago. Since ancient times, such fences have protected people's homes. Modern builders and landscape designers often take natural materials as their main raw material.

There are a huge number of types of natural and artificial stones on the market, from which you can get confused. Choosing the right stone is very important. With it, you can emphasize the style of your site.

  1. Cobblestone. In another way, it is called a boulder stone. It is the most common and affordable option due to different factions. Despite the fact that it is simple, its strength is higher than that of other species. The disadvantages include its gray color, which is not to everyone's taste. The red-brown color of cobblestone is less common.
  2. Gravel. It is also considered a popular option. Fences from it can take any form. The combination of coarse and fine gravel allows you to create original fences. Small gravel can fill the iron frame. To create a durable fence, gravel is combined with brick.
  3. Dolomite stone. Differs in a flat form, different sizes and thickness. The place of its production is mountain quarries. This is a high quality natural stone. The constructed fence from it will be durable and attractive.
  4. Limestone. There are shell rock, marble-like limestone and bryozoan. It is soft and therefore easy to handle. For beginners, this is ideal. Its disadvantages include the fact that it absorbs moisture. So that it does not destroy the stone, it is necessary to pre-treat it with a water repellent.
  5. Sandstone. The use of this stone for the construction of fences has been going on for a considerable number of years. It is a durable, frost and moisture resistant stone.
  6. Booth. Mined from sandstone, limestone and dolomite. Irregular stone. Its edge can be from 15 to 50 centimeters. From it not only build fences, but also trim them.
  7. Fake diamond. Recently, its popularity is growing due to the fact that it is much cheaper than natural. Most often it is made of concrete with the addition of pigments. Finished copies practically do not differ from their originals.

Combining stones with other materials

The original combination is a combination of wood and stone.

Thanks to these natural materials, the fence blends in harmoniously with the environment. True, to make such a fence is quite difficult. Special skills and preliminary developments are required.

Gabions have been very popular lately.

Translated from French, it means "stones in a grid." The basis for such a fence is a mesh of thick metal wire. Fine and medium gravel is poured into it. In addition, fragments of bricks, rubble and other stones are often poured into it. The fence can be of any shape. The end result is an attractive and durable fence.

The combination of stone and brick is the most popular fencing option.

The fence turns out to be presentable, durable, resistant to temperature extremes and weather conditions.

Preparatory work

The preparatory work includes the design and acquisition of all necessary tools and materials. The fence project and all the necessary calculations can be done using special online programs from open sources. The choice of material depends on your financial and taste preferences. Description of the most popular above. And from the tools you will need a concrete mixer, a tape measure, a shovel, a trowel, a building level, pegs and a rope.

The preparatory work also includes clearing the territory, leveling the ground and marking. The latter is carried out by driving in pegs and pulling a rope between them along the perimeter of the future fence.

Foundation

As mentioned earlier, the stone fence has an impressive mass, so the arrangement of the base must be approached with all responsibility. A solid tape reinforced base is ideal.

The width of the foundation should be 150 millimeters greater than the width of the future fence. The height of the plinth is up to you. The main thing is that it should not be lower than 100-150 millimeters.


support poles

For the construction of pillars, the "sliding formwork" method is used. The optimal dimensions for supports are considered to be 30x30 or 40x40 centimeters. The formwork is assembled from boards and fastened with self-tapping screws.


Ideally, give each tier a day to dry before laying the next one. Thus, the pillars will be more durable.

Laying out spans

After the base and pillars are built, you can begin to build spans. The optimal size of stones for them is considered to be 200-250 millimeters. Due to their not too large mass, they are easier and more convenient to work with. Large stones can be broken with a hammer or crushed with a perforator. The stones are held together with a thick mortar made from sand and cement in a ratio of 3:1, respectively. Adding dry dye to the mixture will allow you to get seams of a different color than the solution has.

First you need to apply a cement mortar to the foundation. Then symmetrically lay out stone elements along both edges of the span. To make it easier to navigate in the masonry, the section is marked with a stretched thread.

Lay out the entire bottom row of the section. Fill in all the gaps between the edges. The flat side of the stone should be facing up. Before you start laying out each subsequent row, as in the case of the construction of pillars, leave the masonry for a day so that it dries. Use the dressing when laying out the rows.

Finishing work

To give a more attractive look to the fence, it is necessary to perform jointing.

The seams are convex, shallow and deep. The latter option visually makes the masonry more voluminous.

To work on the seam, you will need a scraper, a wire brush and a piece of foam rubber.

It is easiest to open the seams about 3-4 hours after the masonry is completed. Later, the cement mortar becomes stiff and difficult to joint.

  1. First you need to clean the stones and seams with a wire brush.
  2. With a scraper, create neat ditches in the seams, the depth of which should not exceed 1-2 centimeters.
  3. Then the fence must be washed. This is done with the help of foam rubber, brushes and 30% hydrochloric acid. At the same time, do not forget about safety measures - use protective gloves.

As additional decorative elements, you can use forging or let climbing plants grow along the fence, and so on. It all depends on your imagination.

How to make a gabion fence

Fences from gabions (stones in a grid) are rapidly gaining popularity among others. This is facilitated by a number of advantages:

  • Such a fence reliably protects from wind and street noise.
  • Hides your privacy from prying eyes.
  • The fence is visually attractive.
  • Withstands heavy loads.
  • Easy and simple to install.
  • Economical and durable.
  • Perfectly tolerates temperature changes and any weather phenomena.
  • Such a fence can be erected on any terrain.
  • You can fill it with different materials.

How to choose a grid?

In order for such a fence to be as durable as possible, special attention must be paid to the selection of material. There is a wide variety of nets for the construction of the fence, which have different shapes and mesh sizes. Most often, a chain-link mesh is used, which can be tension and sectional. The cells in it come with a round, square and other section.

When choosing a grid, do not go wrong with the size of the cells. Stones should not fall out through them.

Do-it-yourself construction stages

The foundation for a gabion fence is made according to the same principle as described above. Make the posts in the same way as for the previous fence. The distance between them should be no more than 5 meters. As soon as the base and supports are completely solidified, proceed with the installation of gabions.

First you need to form a frame from the grid. Lay the rolls on the ground, unroll them and level them. Carefully fix the grid to the supports and foundation.

The last step is to fill the grids with stones.

Video: building a gabion fence

Video: highlights of laying buta

A stone fence will become a reliable protector of your dacha. It will serve you for a very long time. Its construction is a simple process. By following the recommendations and tips described above, you will not have to spend money on workers. You can do this job on your own. Good luck!


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