Bathrobe female pattern 54 size. Wrap-around bathrobe with shawl collar and turn-down

Now let's try to sew a wrap-around robe. And today we'll try to design a loose robe with a dropped sleeve and a shawl collar. Many people ask how to sew a dressing gown? ... The answer is simple: a couple of meters of beautiful and pleasant to the touch fabric and you will turn from Cinderella into a princess. Believe me, sewing a bathrobe with your own hands is very simple.

How to sew a wrap dressing gown: a simple pattern.

Dressing gown silhouette - loose with set-in sleeves and cuffs, dropped shoulder, shawl collar. Overlapped robe with belt and shawl collar.

Choose the length of the bathrobe at your discretion, long or short. In this article, we will consider a pattern for 50-52r-r, for a height of 176 cm.

Choose a beautiful silk fabric as the material. When choosing acetate lye or viscose (they are beautiful and inexpensive), you will need 3 m 50 cm with a width of 100-110 cm or 3 m with w = 140 cm.

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As a finish, you can choose a contrasting piping, you can also cut out cuffs and a collar from another fabric.

Robe cut.

• We build patterns according to the presented figure. All details are given with allowances, except for the pocket.
• Pocket: add 4 cm to the top cut, 1 cm to the side and bottom.
• Belt: 1.5cm * 12cm, if the fabric is narrow, then 75cm * 12cm, respectively, but if the length of such a belt seems small to you (or there is a tummy, then you should make it longer).

We perform in the following order.

• The part of the front and back must be folded with the right side inward and the shoulder seams are sewn (seam width 1.5 cm), overcast them.
• We cut out the shawl collar one-piece with pick-ups and with a central seam on the back.
• This central seam must be stitched both on the collar with a collar and on the shelves. In order for the collar to be tighter and “not led” during sewing, glue the collar with a non-woven collar, overcast the inner section.
• On the back, stitch the collar into the neck (after all, the pepper with the collar is one-piece).
• Fold the front sides of the one-piece collar and the robe itself and stitch, starting from one side, going to the shawl and then, finish at the end of the second side (seam width 0.7 cm).
• If you planned to use a piping, you can pre-sew it on the main details or do it at the same time, connecting the robe with the selection.
• Turn inside out, in the collar area, make notches according to the allowance, in order to turn it out easier and better. You can sweep the seam.
• Sew on the selection, one-piece with a shawl. Please note that on the back, the stitching seam of the lower collar should be closed by 1-2 mm by the upper one.
• Sew the sleeves into the armhole, from notch to notch. Process the bottom of the sleeve with cuffs (5 cm wide, cut out by analogy with the bottom of the sleeve), or lace, or simply overcast and fold.
• Iron the allowance along the bottom and inner edges and stitch onto the shelf detail (with a seam 0.2 cm from the edge), observing the notches.
• Stitch the side seams of the dressing gown, simultaneously with the sleeves (seam width 1.5 cm).
• Overcast and fold the top of the pocket, you can also process it with lace and ribbons. Iron the allowance along the bottom and inner edges and stitch onto the shelf detail.
• Overcast the bottom of the robe and fold it over (seam = 1 cm).
• To make a belt, sewing along one short and long sides, turn it inside out, fold the edge by 1 cm and stitch the second tip (seam = 2 mm).

That's all, as you can see, sewing a wrap robe with a shawl collar is quite simple. And if you don’t like bathrobes, try sewing it, at home it will be very, very comfortable.

I also suggest watching a video on how to sew a dress - a bathrobe based on a sketch by designer O. Nikishecheva.

From an ordinary terry sheet measuring 180 by 130 cm, you can sew a dressing gown with a hood. There is only one condition - the measurement of the circumference of the hips should not exceed 110cm, otherwise the robe will not fit in width.

The design of the bathrobe is extremely simple and economical: not a single centimeter will go to the rags.

Fold the fabric across and mark the center center line. From it to the left and to the right, set aside ¼ measurements of the circumference of the hips. Mark the length of the product, the length and width of the sleeve, how to do this can be seen in the drawing. Cut the armholes and shoulder seams, cut out two squares measuring 17 by 17 cm - they will go to pockets or gussets if you want to make the sleeves looser. Please note: there is no need to make an incision along a 16 cm long line - the hood and the robe are connected here.

Sew into the armhole. Then stitch the shoulder seam and the sleeve seam at the same time - they continue each other. Sew the corners of the hood and sew the bottom of the hood to the neck. The floors of the dressing gown and the bottom can be edged with braid or hemmed on the machine with a zigzag seam.

The bathrobe can be made long, but then the sheets are not enough, you will have to use the usual terry cloth.

The armhole (the place where the sleeve is sewn to the “body”) is half the width of the sleeve. Naturally, where it says "armhole", you need to make an incision.

As in the designer - cut and folded. There will be no problems at all.

Information for those who like to dress beautifully and fashionably. I found an interesting website http://www.stock-center.ru, this is the official website of the Stock Center chain of stores, which have been leading the market for over ten years. Goods in stores for buyers with low and average earnings, but despite this, the models are very rare, high quality and beautiful. Here you can find branded clothes and at very low prices. Stylish ladies will not be disappointed by visiting the site, there are a lot of not only clothes, but also shoes and other goods. Shopping, as you know, is the best cure for depression, and if it doesn’t hit your pocket yet, then a great mood lift is guaranteed!

Home clothes should be comfortable and loose, but at the same time, you want them to look no less attractive than the day off. This is especially true of the most common option for the home: a bathrobe. If you can't find an attractive model in the store, you can sew it yourself - for example, a wrap dressing gown: elegant, but spacious, and even though it is not at all fitted, well emphasizing the figure. How to sew a wrap dressing gown?

A classic wrap dressing gown can be made without side seams - just the top ones, between the shelves and the back. In addition, it often lacks even sleeves and buttons, which are replaced by a belt. However, you can simply make a hidden clasp so that the product does not lose its lightness. For such a dressing gown, it is recommended to take thin and not too smooth fabrics: cotton, chintz, cambric.

• A pattern for a wraparound robe can be built without even performing complex calculations: its silhouette is free, as a result of which special errors of 2-3 cm do not play a role. In addition, there are no tucks in it, which also simplifies the sewing process.
• The basis of such a bathrobe is a rectangle. The full width (MN segment multiplied by 2) is equal to the hip circumference with the addition of 5-8 cm. The NP segment, which marks the smell, is set to a width of 15 cm, and is relevant for the left and right shelves.
• The length of the product is chosen arbitrarily, so this value is not indicated on the pattern. The height of the side (from the waist to the bottom of the opening of the sleeve) is 17-20 cm, depending on how loose the sleeve should be. The same applies to the depth of the neck.

There is no particular problem in combining the details: first, process the opening of the sleeve with a zigzag or using an overlock, then sew along the top of the shelves and back, and then also process the neck and edges of the product. If you need to make a hidden fastener, it is recommended to put it at the intersection of the waist line and the vertical from point N.

• The finished dressing gown can be supplemented with a slanting inlay, put on the edge of the shelves and neck. It is not recommended to process the bottom. For plain robes, the trim is cut out of the same material; for fabric with a pattern, a satin or satin ribbon is taken so that it does not argue with the main pattern.
• If you want to make sleeves for such a robe, refer to their classic pattern, but do not narrow them to the wrist: the main idea of ​​wrap robes is lightness and freedom, which can be seen in every detail.

This version of home clothes also belongs to products with a wrap, however, it has some peculiarities: in particular, a kimono robe is not sewn fitted - it is always loose clothing, if we turn to traditional oriental clothing, and also suggests the presence of a wide sode sleeve. In addition, such a robe has a belt, which can be either a standard width (2-3 cm) or closer to the Japanese obi - 10-15 cm.

• The kimono robe pattern consists of 6 parts: a one-piece back, left and right shelves, as well as sleeves and 2 belt parts. Even a novice craftswoman will cope with the construction. The recommended material for such a product is silk, as required by traditional rules. But you can replace it with another lightweight fabric.

All details are built from classic rectangles, so it’s quite difficult to make a mistake here. The length of the belt is chosen arbitrarily, depending on how it should be tied. The most commonly used formula is OT + 40 (45) cm.

• The length of the classic kimono robe is up to the middle of the leg: it is with this calculation that the silhouette will look elegant and attractive. The width of the back is calculated as the "width of the back" multiplied by 1.2-1.5. In this case, the front half and back are equal in width to each other.
• The bevel on the shelves, coming from the neckline, ends at the waistline, and the lower points of the side cuts for the sleeves should be about 15 cm higher.

The parts are sewn together as follows: first, the shelves are sewn to the back with the top seam, and the fabric left for allowances is ironed back. Then the sleeves are added, and the shelves are connected to the back along the side seams. It remains only to sew the details of the belt so that it is dense and empty inside, and the kimono robe is ready to move into the wardrobe.

Universal home clothes can and should be aesthetic, individual and interesting. Therefore, it is worth spending time on its independent production. An excellent option for such clothes can be called a bathrobe. Practical and comfortable, it will help in creating coziness "near the family hearth." Among its advantages - a variety of styles and ample opportunities for decoration.

A dressing gown is a shoulder garment that is fastened from the neck to the bottom of the product with buttons or with a flared side. Covers the trunk and legs partially or completely. This item is considered clothing for home and leisure, has no gender and age characteristics. It is worn by men, women and children. A kind of women's dressing gown is a peignoir.

Experienced craftsmen even create fantasy products from silk and satin fabrics, decorate them with lace, frills along the side, pleats along the neckline, make darts and detachable coquettes. The result is a design model. But even with little experience in tailoring, you can design an individual pattern of a home dressing gown and make a comfortable and presentable thing. There are many simple styles that do not require laborious drawings.

Most robes are designed according to the classic dress pattern, adjusting it in size, adding the necessary details (cuffs, belt, hood). Home clothing is good because it does not require rigid canons - you can trust your instinct and imagination. Of the mandatory steps - for example, the calculation of fabric. The amount of matter is adjusted for the volume of the chest (especially if it exceeds 100 cm), the shape of the sleeve, the freedom of fitting.

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The history of the appearance of the bathrobe

In modern fashion, the bathrobe has become a household item of clothing worn after showering and for relaxing. He became, first of all, the personification of elegant women's underwear and an item that is worn on a wet body.

The history of the dressing gown began many centuries ago in the East. The name is of Turkic, Arabic origin and means "clothes". It was, as a rule, outerwear for men, protecting from all adverse factors: heat, wind, cold.

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In Europe, robes were traditionally worn at home as an intermediate step between underwear for sleeping and attire for going out. This type of clothing was of greater importance in the upper strata, it was possible to take breakfast with the family in it. Peasants, of course, did not have such household items.

Types of bathrobes

A variation of a cut similar to an oriental robe is Japanese kimono clothing. Some modern models of home wear and peignoirs have taken this historical type of product with wide sleeves as a prototype. A kimono robe is always without a fastener, but has a wide side and is tied at the waist.

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There are also gowns, which are special clothes: for doctors, laboratory assistants, cooks, workers. Each profession has its own standards for workwear as a uniform. For example, a kitchen worker's coat should be white, a technician's coat should be gray or black, a loader's or warehouse worker's coat should be blue.

The most comfortable and common model for wearing at home is a wraparound bathrobe. The free silhouette does not restrict movement, the wide front side gives freedom of step, the absence of a fastener makes it easy to put it on and take it off.

This model is worn by everyone without restrictions. The silk option is suitable for girls who love long breakfasts and weekends at home. A shortened product made of dense velveteen, cotton gabardine, silk will appeal to men who work at home in the office. Traditional terry robes are worn after waking up and taking a bath, adults and children, regardless of age.

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Pattern of a homemade dressing gown for the smell

To sew such a product on your own, you need to understand how to build a pattern for a classic women's wrap dressing gown. The model is made of flowing satin fabric or not very thick terry cloth. Freedom of fit allows you to use almost any base for further modeling. The design of the shoulder product is taken as the basis for the construction. It can be the base of a dress, a blouse, even a light jacket with a soft shoulder line or a coat.

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1. On the existing base, it is necessary to expand the half horizontal dimensions to the value of the Half-girth of the chest + 8.0-12.0 cm. The increase depends on the model and the selected fabric.
2. Line up a straight vertical line through the widths along the chest, waist, hips, to the bottom line.
3. Close chest tuck. Level the shoulder and waist darts.
4. Lengthen the line of the shoulder slope to 15.0-18.0 cm.
5. Build a new, straightened armhole, deepening it to 25 cm or more.
6. Modeling on the basis of the sleeve. Expand it across the entire width according to the model.
7. Construct a new armhole according to the length and shape of the armhole.
8. On the shelf, carry out modeling to design the line of the board and the smell. To do this, draw a line from the point of the base of the neck to the corner of the waist line / side seam. Depending on the model, the edge of the finished bead may reach the side seam or be slightly shorter.
9. Check out a new neck line, with the transition to the board.
10. Depending on the model, draw the design of the side and neck. The edge of the side and the neck can be finished with either a hood or a shawl collar, turning into a pick, or a decorative edging, equal in width to the removed belt.

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Sleeves and details

In dressing gowns of traditional models, set-in sleeves are used. They are designed according to a single-seam base pattern, copying the contours onto paper. The length is adjustable according to size and desire - as a rule, it is 7/8 according to the basic scheme. On the sleeve, you can make a turn-down or tuning cuff. It is necessary that its length be equal to the width of the finished element, so it is better to cut it out after trying it on. For turn-down varieties, an allowance of up to 1 cm is made to ensure freedom of fitting. If the fabric is voluminous, the armhole is further deepened.

To calculate the length of the belt, you need to measure the waist circumference and add up to 50 cm for tying. To prevent the left shelf from sagging, additional ribbons are made into the seam for the selection from the inside. The patch pocket, like the belt, is cut out separately, rounding the corners along the bottom, and stitched 12-15 cm below the waist. The hood in a bathrobe is more often a decorative detail, but you can replace the collar with it. The long side is equal to the neckline along the back plus two lengths of the top of the shelves, and the short side is equal to the height of the shoulder plus allowances for seams and a loose fit.

Without a pattern, it is possible to model a dressing gown directly on the fabric. The cut of the selected matter is folded in half, forming the median axis of the back along the fold. A segment equal to ¼ of the circumference of the chest is laid off from it with an increase in freedom of fitting and seams.

Progress

1. Draw and cut the neckline - 2 cm from the back, 7 cm from the front.
2. Draw a line along the shoulder with a 2 cm bevel.
3. Adjust the length of the shoulder on the back and front - they should be equal.

So that the thing does not turn out to be narrow in the chest, an overlap is made in this zone - a fold or assembly. If a belt is supposed, it is cut out from the main fabric, cutting off along the bottom of the canvas.

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A bathrobe is a traditional cozy clothing for the home, which is easy to sew with your own hands. Simple design and cut do not require deep knowledge and special skills. By choosing a high-quality fabric, you can create a product that is worn not only after a shower, but also as comfortable beautiful clothes for the home.

Today we will cut a small dressing gown without a pattern, a dressing gown without sleeves, wraparound, short. Do-it-yourself wrap dress without a pattern. We will build everything immediately on the fabric. Who watched the topic of cutting a pink topic without patterns, it will practically be the same, but a slight difference in this topic will be associated with the texture of the fabric - the top was cut from knitwear, and we will cut the dressing gown from cotton, and the presence of a slight smell in the dressing gown pattern. In exactly the same way, you can cut not only a bathrobe with a smell, but also a dressing gown with buttons. The main condition is that the shelves coincide along the line of the center of the front.

In order to build a robe pattern, you must have a minimum of measurements: chest circumference (write down 1/4 of the measurement), waist circumference (write down 1/4 of the measurement), hip circumference (write down 1/4 of the measurement), bust height (measure from shoulder lines to the high point of the chest, back width (40 cm), back length (one fourth of the height) to the waist, product length.

We align the fabric and cut off the excess, the edge and begin to apply our measurements to build a pattern. When we cut without patterns, we first build a pattern for the back. We draw a waist line from the edge of the fabric - it depends on the length of the product, we measure the length of the product from the edge of the fabric and put a point, we have it 53 cm plus 1 cm for the hem, from this point we draw the waist line. After that, from the waist line upwards, we postpone the measurement of the length of the back (40 cm) and mark the point 7 of the cervical vertebra, draw a line. Set aside half the width of the back - 20 cm and draw a line for the width of the back. Measure DS (back length) set aside half from it, that is, 20 cm.

If someone has not watched the video on how to sew a top without a pattern, I remind you how to measure the width of the back, if we are not sewing according to the basic pattern, but building a pattern on the fabric, we measure the back width differently than when building a basic pattern, we take a centimeter for measurement and measure from shoulder to shoulder, see photo

Before us, the lines are the length of the product (the edge of the fabric), the waist line, the chest line (it is also the armhole line), the line 7 of the cervical vertebra will go into the sprout and the neck line and the shoulder line.

There is a measure of the width of the back on the fabric and it is necessary to mark the hip line, approximately 17 cm. The distance from the waist line to the hip line can be from 17 to 20 cm (for very high growth), we take the average - 17 cm.

Along the lines: 1.chest, 2.waist, 3.hips - we set aside pre-calculated measurements - this is 1/4 of the volume of measurements taken - chest circumference, waist circumference and hip circumference.

After that, we move on to our half-girths and set aside 30 cm along the chest line, about 26 cm along the waist line, about 30 cm along the hip line. We circle these points with a smooth line, so that the side seam line looks natural, we draw it so that the point along the waist line is out of place and we have a surplus that we can take into a tuck along the waist line approximately in the middle of the shelf.

We are building a tuck, the depth of which will depend on the difference in width between the side seam line and the point obtained by marking the measurement of the half-circumference of the waist.

Now you need to set aside the point of the width of the sprout. On average, it is 7-8 cm. We take 8 cm, since this is a bathrobe and we outline the line of the sprout, see photo

From the highest point of the sprout, we draw a line of the shoulder with an inclination. And having these lines, we can draw the back of the armhole.

If you need to lay a tuck along the shoulder line on bulky areas in the shoulder area, you can make a tuck, but extend the shoulder line and draw the armhole line to it so that the points coincide.

From the line of the hips draw a line down. The back pattern is ready. We cut out the pattern of the back, on it we will build a pattern of shelves. The back has a central seam.

back pattern is ready! on the pattern you can see: the length of the product, the line of the hips, waist, chest (armhole), neck line, sprout, shoulder line and armhole line, tucks are marked along the waist line from the center of the back and side seam, as well as in the middle of the back

When building the front of the robe, we will also learn how to build a smell. In a product with a smell, there is a line of the center of the front and it must be marked so that the shelves, when superimposed on each other, coincide along the line of the center of the front, this is important.

we lay the line of the center of the front and mark the width of the smell

We lay out the pattern on the fabric so that we have enough space on the fabric to leave the fabric on the smell. We mark the front center line on the fabric, do not confuse the edge of the product and the front center line.

Then we transfer the waistline to the fabric. We draw on the fabric the line of the edge of the product that has become our smell.

Now it is necessary to note the balance that we can have from 1 to 2.5 cm. The balance of 3 cm is already a very large size and a very high chest, so it is rare and for no particular reason never take a balance of 3 cm ..
Balance 1 cm is size 46-48, 1.5 cm -50 - size 52, 2.0 cm - size 54-56. For myself, I take 1.5 cm.

So, the shoulder width is the same, and the height along the shoulder line at the neckline is 1.5 cm higher.
There are no changes in volume, but it is necessary to build a chest tuck. The peculiarity of laying a tuck with such a cut is from 4 to 9 cm maximum, it is not recommended to lay a tuck more with such a cut. I usually have a 7 cm tuck.
From the point of the beginning of the armhole of the back, she set aside 7 cm upwards. And to the line of the shoulder she laid a rounded line of the armhole of the shelf, see photo

Is it clear how we built the line of the shoulder and the smell (from the line of the center of the front we added an even piece)? The line of the side seam of the back and the front are exactly the same in shape and will be sewn together very easily.

definition of a tuck and its construction

What is raised along the line of the side seam for the tuck 7 cm will go into the tuck. The front part of the armhole of the shelf was built from it.

From the end of the smell from the waist line, the point where the belt will be sewn to the beginning of the shoulder line is connected by a straight line.

From the shoulder line, we set aside the chest height of 29 cm and note where we have the center of the chest, it is about 11 cm. this value. This will be the top of our tuck. From the line of the side seam, it absolutely does not matter from what place it is necessary to measure 7 cm and draw the tuck lines to the point of the top of the chest. The top of the tuck was found from the measurement of the height of the bust and from the center of the chest. Pay attention to the armhole line, two rounding lines, it is better to round more.

The shelf pattern is ready, we cut the finished pattern. After we sweep the tucks, the side seams will match perfectly.

Let's start sweeping. On the fabric, be sure to mark the waist line with a notch. Transfer the darts and center front lines. We will lay the center line in front of the lining seam with a thread of a contrasting color.

fabric chintz bathrobe with a wraparound seam is visible in the center of the front and the width of the smell

On the shelf we lay the waist lines with a slope so that there is no such tuck on the stomach. The width of the tuck is exactly the same as the excess in the line of the side seam of the back. The location of the waist tuck is found from the location of the point of the top of the chest. If the difference between the volume of the hips and the waist is significant, the excess can be removed in additional tucks along the waist line. And we transfer all the necessary lines from one side to the other. Having spent a little time transferring lines and laying a laying seam along the center front line is much easier and better than getting lost while sewing a product and then looking for information on how to fix defects, my rule is not to make defects so that you do not have to fix them later.

We swept away one detail and try it on.

It would be possible not to make tucks at the waist, but our trade offers so many shapeless things that if we do it for ourselves, then let's create more beautiful clothes that do not look like a bag. All the advantages of the figure, while they are, must be emphasized.

I want to draw your attention to the darts, taking into account your individual characteristics, find your location of the tuck for your figure. Regardless of which cutting system and method you use, remember that this understanding comes with experience, so sew more and study your figure and look for the right cut for you, everything comes with experience, only in this way you will find exactly what exactly what you need. Another point that I want to draw your attention to is uniformity. It is impossible to remove all the difference only in the side seam or in one tuck, everything must be distributed evenly a little bit. The last thing we need to do is sweep the shoulder seams and the product will be ready to try on. All the details when sweeping coincide, since initially there was a correct construction of the pattern.

The photo shows a cushioning seam along the center line of the front. On the smell, we set aside as much as you want and as much as the fabric allows from 8 cm to 12-13-14 cm. Usually 13 cm is enough.

This is what the coat looks like

Even in such a sour cream, the product looks good. Such a simple dressing gown looks much more advantageous compared to those expensive things from the store, in which we become completely shapeless. If we have skill and a good pattern in our hands, we will always look well and expensively dressed. In finished form, there may be a fringing in one of the colors of the fabric, maybe I will make a pocket, there will still be ties - a belt, and the ties will also be from the inside of the robe.

Preliminary fitting showed that the fit is perfect for the figure, on the chest, along the tuck lines from the side of the back. The neckline is slightly rounded and not very deep. If you are in doubt about how to draw the neck line so as not to deepen it very much, you can determine it after trying it on.

Any person can master such a simple style, if the model is sewn quickly it gives inspiration to create other things, but if the thing is tightened during the manufacturing process, this can discourage any desire to create something.

For those who have already purchased a course on the cutting system 10 measurements https://site/10_merok/ or just about to buy it, this video shows how to work with the smell. Also on the dressing gown can be buttons to the desired length.

If you find this video useful for yourself, if you liked it, share it with your friends, leave comments, write your reviews. All the best, I was with you, Paukshte Irina Mikhailovna!