How to use the pattern gradation scheme. Gradation of patterns of small parts and derivative patterns

61 Rules for the design of drawings of patterns. The location of the main serifs on the patterns

When constructing drawings of patterns, they use the regulatory and technical documentation presented in the general technical conditions of industry standards for various types of products.

Initial data for the development of basic drawings of patterns of the main parts of clothing are: a technical drawing of the model design of the product, processing methods, properties of the materials from which it is planned to manufacture the product.

conjugation and overlap connected slices. The slices are checked in a certain sequence: first, the conjugacy of the slices is checked, then the check for overlapping slices.

Overlay

All parts of the set of patterns must show the directions of the warp threads, the lines of the middle of the parts, the lines of the chest, waist, hips, control notches for connecting parts /

On the pattern of the back indicate the name of the product. A list is placed on one of the large parts ( specification) with the numbering of all the parts included in this kit. The following inscriptions are placed on all parts of the set of patterns:

the name of detail; technical description number; the number of details in the cut.

Mounting notches are applied to the patterns of parts perpendicular to the cuts for the correct connection of parts to each other. Usually, on sections longer than 40-50 cm, at least two notches are placed at a distance of about 10 cm from the end of the sections. At least four notches are applied on the sleeves and armholes. Notches are obligatory at the points of intersection of the seam lines with adjacent details, for example, on the sleeve hem for the shoulder seam, on the armhole for the top of the elbow seam of the sleeve, on the cut of the collar stand for the midline of the back and shoulder seam, etc.

Additionally, they put notches for pockets, sewing in individual parts and designating hem allowances. If two notches are nearby (one for the finishing part, the other is mandatory), leave a notch for the finishing part.

62 Pattern gradation. The main methods of gradation

Grouping method is reduced to obtaining patterns of clothing parts of various sizes as a result of combining two sets of patterns (medium and extreme sizes). After matching the patterns, the design points of the same name are connected by straight lines. These lines are divided by the number of parts corresponding to the number of intermediate sizes. The main disadvantage of the grouping method is that it is necessary to build drawings not in one, but in two dimensions. This method is used as a starting point for finding the increments at the main design points of typical schemes for the technical reproduction of patterns used in other methods, as well as for the reproduction of patterns of clothing details of complex models.

Essence beam method consists in the fact that from a certain point (focus) straight lines (rays) are drawn through all constructive points. From the contour of the part along these rays, increments are plotted. Based on the newly found points, the contours of parts of larger and smaller sizes are drawn.

This method is the simplest, but the least accurate. Its accuracy is primarily affected by the choice of the position of the starting point (focus). At different positions of the focus, the direction of the rays turns out to be different, the constructive points of the patterns are displaced, and their contours are distorted. The ray method can be used in the reproduction of patterns of individual parts of headgear and corsetry, the size increments of which occur in the radial direction.

63 Proportional-calculated method of gradation of patterns of clothing details

Gradation or technical duplication of patterns is the receipt of a set of patterns of all sizes and heights of the corresponding weight or age group according to the patterns of parts of a product of medium size.

Three methods of technical reproduction of patterns are known: grouping, beam and proportional-calculated.

The most widely used in the design received proportional-calculated method of reproduction of patterns. The essence of this method is that the structural points of the patterns are moved horizontally and vertically, taking into account the corresponding increments of the patterns along the horizontal and vertical axes in accordance with changes in the dimensional features of the human body and the position of the division lines.

The increments along the horizontals and verticals for each constructive point of the patterns are found based on a certain position of the point relative to the original (zero) lines (axes). For the main details of the shoulder products, the following arrangement of the base lines is accepted. On the back, the vertical line coincides with the middle of the back or a line tangent to the middle line of the back, the horizontal line coincides with the chest line (armhole depth) or the waist line. On the shelf, the vertical line runs tangent to the armhole line, the horizontal line coincides with the chest line (armhole depth) or the waist line.

73 Ways to check the correctness of the construction of the design of clothing. Pairing parts

The design drawing of the product must provide accurate conjugation and overlap connected slices. The slices are checked in a certain sequence: first, the conjugacy of the slices is checked, then the check for overlapping slices.

For check conjugacy lines along mating sections, locations of control signs, templates of the main parts are made of thick paper. The cut of the template corresponds to the seam line in the finished product. Templates of adjacent parts are laid on a plane, combining cuts of the same name 3–8 cm from the line being checked.

Conjugacy is checked by slices that are continuations of each other. These are cuts of the neck of the shelf and back, cut of the bottom of the shelf and back, cuts of the armhole, etc. The lines of mating cuts should smoothly move from one part to another at the junction of the parts.

The patterns of the back and shelves are folded, combining the lines of the side cuts for 8 cm from the armhole. At the same time, the pairing of the armhole line at the junction of the parts is checked.

To check the conjugation in the neck area, the patterns of the back and the shelves are combined along the line of the shoulder sections for 5 cm from the neck.

Checking the conjugation of the okat lines, the patterns of the upper and lower halves of the sleeve are combined along the line of the front cut for 8 cm from the top cut. The patterns of the upper and lower halves are also aligned along the line of the elbow cuts for 8 cm from the top cut and the pairing of the okat lines is checked.

Overlay check by sections that will be connected to each other in the product. These are side cuts, cuts of the connection of a shelf with a cutting barrel, cuts of sleeves, cuts of reliefs, side and step cuts of trousers, etc.

The sections to be connected must be close to each other in configuration. With this configuration of the connected sections, the manufacturability of the design is ensured, the aesthetics of the product is increased.

) patterns". Unfortunately, due to the small number of comments, I did not understand how much the topic turned out to be in demand and accessible in presentation. And yet, I will try to bring what I started to its logical conclusion.

Let me remind you that in previous articles on patterns, we examined the technical reproduction and detailed characteristics of gradation, which is most common in modern conditions of industrial clothing production.

As examples, I have already given the technical reproduction of individual parts. In order to create a general picture of the process in relation to a particular type of product, further in Figures 1-6 the main details of a women's jacket are presented in size and height according to.

Figure 1 - Scheme of gradation according to the size of the details of the back of a women's jacket (size group 84-104)

Figure 2 - Scheme of gradation according to the height of the details of the back of a women's jacket

Figure 3 - Scheme of gradation according to the size of the details of the shelf of a women's jacket (size group 84-104)

Figure 4 - Scheme of gradation according to the height of the details of the shelf of a women's jacket

Figure 5 - Scheme of gradation according to the size of the details of the sleeve of a women's jacket (group of sizes 84-104)

Figure 6 - Scheme of gradation according to the height of the details of the sleeve of a women's jacket

When grading patterns of parts by height, first of all, such an indicator as the difference in the lengths of products of adjacent (adjacent) heights, which is called the intergrowth difference, is taken into account.

Growth difference along the length of the product is set differently depending on the type of product and the ratio of its length to the total body length (height). For practical purposes, you can use the values ​​​​of the height difference values ​​\u200b\u200bgiven in Table 1. The height difference along the length of the sleeve (long) is set for all types of shoulder clothing the same, equal to 2.0 cm.

Table 1 - Inter-height difference in the length of garments

The displacements of design points from size to size and from growth to growth for the main parts of garments are usually presented in the form of summary tables, in which for each point the magnitudes of its movement horizontally and vertically are indicated. one adjacent size or height. Moreover, these values ​​are typical for increase size or height. If it is necessary to obtain patterns of smaller height or size, then the increments at the points do not change, and these increments are postponed in the opposite direction relative to the selected ones (see the previous article).

If it is necessary, bypassing the adjacent size, to immediately get the extreme one, for example, go from the 46th size to the 52nd, then the values ​​\u200b\u200bof the movement of the points indicated in the diagram immediately increase in proportion to the number of intermediate sizes. In our example, to go to the 52nd size, you need to go through 48, 50 and 52 sizes, therefore, the displacement values ​​at each of the points on the diagram must be tripled. I hope this is understandable. The new position of the construction points will be at the end of the diagonal of the rectangle built on the sides corresponding to the 3x horizontal and vertical increments.

Well, that seems to be all that I would like to tell about the gradation process. Of course, in three articles it is impossible to cover all the nuances of the process. These are just the basics!!! I will be glad if you share your experience of technical reproduction of patterns!!!

I would also like to note the fact that the use of separate programs for automating the process of design preparation for production (CAD) makes it possible to exclude the classical methods of pattern gradation. In this case, when working with the base size (subject to the appropriate settings), similar work is carried out in parallel with drawings and patterns the whole group of sizes for which the product is intended to be manufactured. What ultimately determines O a higher degree of accuracy in the development of the entire set of patterns.

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1. Determine the size and height options for the gradation corresponding to the given weight group and size subgroup of the base option. The required size and height options for figures should be determined according to OST 17 - 325 - 81, OST 17 - 326 - 81.

For example, the development of patterns for a women's jacket was carried out on a typical figure 158 - 96 - 104. This size is the base for the second fullness group, a subgroup of small sizes, which includes standard sizes 84, 88, 92, 96, 100, 104 and typical heights 146 152, 158 , 164, 170, 176. In gradation drawings, it is necessary to build 3 sizes down and two sizes up. For the base size 96, patterns of all the missing heights should be built: 146, 152, 164, 170, 176.

2. Construct the contours of the basic dimension of the assembly details. Apply gradation axes to each detail.

3. Choose a gradation method and scheme from among those recommended (1, 2, 4 ... 8) or available at the enterprise.

4. Draw a diagram of the gradation of the details of the back assembly. On the diagram, indicate the directions and magnitudes of gradation increments at characteristic points (∆х i, ∆у i).

5. Build gradation drawings by size, then by height. The drawings are made on graph paper in M ​​161.

6. Perform an analysis and refine the gradation drawings based on the results of comparing the lengths of the design parameters of the same name in the details of the extreme size options. The number of those analyzed includes the parameters controlled by the technical description sheet of measures. In tabular form, reflect the results of the alignment of the constructive increments incorporated in the controlled parameters.

Table 3.37

Analysis of the change in structural gains during gradation

7. Perform an analysis of conjugation, overlapping and invariance in the ratio of the lengths of the cuts of the patterns of the extreme size options.

Table 3.38

Analysis of changes in the lengths of joined slices after gradation

Table 3.39

Slice contingency analysis

Is it possible to make a graduation in the Valentina program? This is a question I've been getting asked more and more lately. The answer to the question is Yes, you can! But before I show you how to do it, let's clarify a little what gradation is and what possibilities it opens up for us.

What is gradation?

Gradation of patterns is the process of designing a set of patterns for clothing parts of various sizes and heights based on patterns for a product of medium size.

Gradation is also called the engineering and design process of obtaining a number of similar images of contour or design lines of clothing parts to established sizes by increasing or decreasing clothing parts of the original size in accordance with established rules.

In simple terms, you need to create a pattern for an average size and height, and then, based on it, build a set of similar patterns for other sizes.

What opportunities does gradation give us?

Fast, automatic change and reproduction of patterns in the program opens up a number of possibilities for us:

• Make patterns to order
• Create patterns for sale
• Create patterns for participants in master classes, marathons and competitions
• Sewing items for sale

Surely this is not all the possibilities of applying gradation. If you know more, write in the comments!

How to make gradation in "Valentine"?

We can build a drawing to the standards of any. For example, I took measurements for five standard sizes: 44, 46, 48, 50, 52.
Then we create copies of this file with measurements and interrupt (change) the measurements in the copies of the files to measurements of the 46th, 48th, 50th and 52nd sizes. Thus, 5 sets of measurements will be obtained.

And now, applying each of the files with measurements to this drawing, we can change the drawing to each of the standard sizes in a matter of seconds. We create a layout and save a file with a pattern for each size. The pattern is saved in PDF format. It can be printed on your home printer.

In a short period of time, we can multiply the drawing into a number of sizes.

What are the advantages of such a gradation - patterns do not need to be redrawn on tracing paper. A pattern of each size is obtained on a separate file. All we have to do is print it, glue it and cut it out.

We can use this set of standard measurements for various drawings. For those that we already have or that we will create in the future. That is, we need to work hard and create this kit only once. And we can use it repeatedly, as well as any parametric pattern in the Valentina program.

If you have any questions, write in the comments. I will be glad to help you.

© Olga Marizina

In professional language, the method that I will talk about is called gradation in a proportionally calculated way using pre-calculated increments. I will not clog the article with design terms, focusing on the fact that the material is read by tailors and sewing lovers of different levels of training, and I will try to state everything as clearly as possible. But, nevertheless, the topic of breeding patterns is quite complicated, so please be patient.

Schemes for changing patterns (patterns) in size

First you need to understand that changing the pattern from size to size occurs while maintaining the interdimensional interval. In simple terms, this means that each size differs from the previous one by exactly 2 cm (according to Cr - the half-girth of the chest, since the pattern is usually built on half the figure) 42 r, 44 r, 46 r ... and this interval when increasing or decreasing patterns must be kept along the chest line. It is also necessary to take into account and maintain the intervals along the waist line (up to 52 p. is 2 cm, then 3 cm) and along the hip line (up to 54 p. - 2 cm, from 56 p. - 2.5 cm). This rule is for those who change the pattern of the model within the standard sizes.

On the details of the pattern, 2 base lines are set, which remain motionless and make changes relative to them.

Back

• chest line
• line tangent to armhole

shelf

• chest line
• line tangent to armhole

​

Sleeve

• sleeve width line under armhole
• a line connecting the upper and lower ends of the front roll.

Trousers , front and rear halves

• seat line
• fold line

Skirt

• hip line
• center line of the front or back panels

​

Now, having established the main lines, you can proceed directly to changing the patterns (pattern details). To do this, you need to arm yourself with the diagrams below, according to which, and make adjustments. I remind you that changing the pattern by more than 2-3 sizes leads to an error and changes the final result not for the better. In order to reduce the pattern by size, you need to use the increments from the diagrams for each changing position of the point with a minus sign, i.e. in reverse order.

Adjustment of patterns from size to size

The first scheme for increasing (reducing) the basic pattern-base of the skirt from size to size for standard sizes.

Increase (decrease) of the base pattern-base.

It is easy to check whether the intervals between sizes have been preserved by adding up the increments in the area of ​​the chest line. 0.5+0.3+0.3+0.9=2cm.

Enlargement (decrease) of the sleeve pattern.

Enlargement (reduction) of the pattern of trousers.

If you need to adjust the pattern in accordance with the growth, use the diagrams below.

Correction of patterns for growth

I made all the schemes on the basis of the Gradation of patterns in the EMKO SEV system. WOMEN'S CLOTHING. They are designed only for basic basic patterns, and this is understandable, because it is impossible to make patterns for all existing clothing styles. The principle remains simple. INfirstly, the difference between sizes, heights,secondly, increments are distributed in proportion to the sections of the structure.

Another such moment, mostly larger increments are attributed to those parts of the pattern where freedom of movement is needed (armhole, back in the armhole area, etc.)

If any of you are interested in delving into the study of the issue of reproduction (change) of patterns, then you can do this by exploring the topic of the Unified Method for Designing CMEA Clothing (EMKO CMEA). I, on the other hand, tried to describe this method in a concise, simplified form, making allowance for the fact that our readers make clothes for an individual figure, and have the opportunity to take measurements and compare them with standard sizes, thereby checking the conformity of the pattern.

It is impossible to compare the sizes taken from the figure with the sizes on the corresponding parts of the pattern, because when developing the model, an increase in freedom of fitting is taken into account. Therefore, if you still compare your measurements with a pattern, keep this in mind!

In general, if you approach the issue of adjusting a pattern, reducing (increasing) its size, you need to think logically. If, for example, your size in the upper part of the figure corresponds to a typical size 46, and the bottom is 48 or even 50, so as not to buy two patterns and splice them at the waist (this is also possible, as an option), you can purchase one pattern of size 46 and using the diagrams from this lesson, change only the lower part of it.

Adjustment of the dress pattern, taking into account the features of the figure

With a change in pattern in size, we figured it out. Now, I want to talk a little about something else, when the figure is not standard.

In this case, of course, it is better to make individual patterns, just for you. For example, model them on the basis of our basic patterns, built to your measurements. You can build them using our basic pattern generators. And to model - focusing on our articles on modeling.

However, what if you still want to correct the finished pattern?

In preparation for the article, I visited many sites and forums on the topic of adjusting patterns, and a flurry of questions to the authors made me understand that the topic is very relevant. It is not possible to answer everything, but if in this lesson I can answer at least the main ones, I will be glad.

So you have come to our website and you liked the model, for example − this

you wanted to buy a pattern, but your figure does not fit into the dimensional typology, because it's true - each of us is unique! What to do? Is it possible to refuse an update? Let's try to solve the problem.

Let's consider a specific example. On the page with dress description click on the Show size grid button, where we select the size closest to your figure and height. (I will choose 44 p. height 164, my figure is between 44 and 46 p. in terms of parameters.) A plate with dimensional characteristics corresponding to this size falls out. For convenience, you can rewrite on a piece of paper in two columns, and in the third, opposite each typical value, write your measurements.

We also need to know the amount of allowance for freedom of fit for a given silhouette. The values ​​are in the table (but they can also be calculated - measure the sections of the structure and subtract the values ​​of the dimensional features from the resulting values).

Where Pg is an increase in the half-girth of the chest, Fri - to the half-girth of the waist, Pb - the hips, Pshs - to the width of the back, Pshg - to the width of the shelf, Pdts - an increase in the length of the back, Pspr - to the freedom of the armhole, Pshgor - to the neck.

We choose from the value plate - dress, tight fit. Since, our dress model is quite adjacent to the figure. We write down on a piece of paper with our measurements - the main ones. Here's what happened:

Let's get down to the most interesting - in the printed patterns of the selected model, we will measure the main sections of the structure and, taking into account the increases mentioned above, compare them with our own measurements plus the increases.

We have insufficient volume:

• in the chest area - 1 cm
• waist 4.2 cm
• hips 2 cm
• along the length of the front 0.6 cm
• in the girth of the shoulder (arm) 2.6 cm

Now let's proceed directly to the adjustment of the pattern.

Bodice. It is necessary to add 0.5 cm to the side seams to compensate for the missing size in the chest area and partly in the waist. And also, let's add 0.6 cm in the length of the front. Let's check the length of the side sections of the back and shelves, they should be equal. After the changes made, the length of the armhole has increased, this is in our favor, because. by the standards of our arm, we have more than a typical one and we will have to change the width of the sleeve, and therefore the armhole.

Let's continue with the changes. Waistline.

The previous actions gave us an increase in the waist in 1 cm . It needs to be increased by 3.2 cm . I propose to reduce the solutions of thalium tucks and add 0.6 cm to the side, but only in the waist area.

Remains the bottom of the dress. We increase the volume of the waist on the skirt pattern by adding 1.1 cm to the side seams and reducing the openings of the tucks (folds). At the same time, we increase the pattern along the hips by 1 cm at each side seam. It remains only to check the pairing of the tucks on the bodice and skirt, so that when combined, they fall exactly to each other, if you need to correct.

So we changed the dress pattern to fit our figure, I hope that my advice will be useful to you. Of course, it is impossible to tell about all the nuances within the framework of one lesson. But, I think, if you have questions regarding the adjustment of patterns regarding your figures, we will make another publication in which I will tell you how to solve them. So, I'm catching questions! Thank you for using our site.