How to photograph waterfalls and other scenes with water. Photography lesson
You can watch running water endlessly – it’s a well-known fact. Photographers can capture this moment indefinitely, transmit the image to many people, thereby creating the opportunity to admire the shimmering waves at any time, without leaving home. Modern technology helps them a lot in this matter, SLR cameras are able to convey the liveliness and movement of water with the correct settings, and monitors and televisions can reproduce the footage.
To learn how to convey mood, smells, and water movement, you need to actively train and learn the main rules for filming waterfalls and fast rivers. Firstly, the equipment must be selected correctly - the camera, the lens, the filters, and the tripod. Without them, you won’t be able to shoot smoothly and efficiently. Secondly, you need to know all the technical features of your camera. Therefore, to shoot something new, it is better to take a less suitable but proven camera than a new multifunctional one. And lose many hours in vain attempts to get the desired effects.
Filming waterfalls requires careful preparation, usually at least a couple of days and several important stages pass until the very moment of filming:
- selection of the necessary set of equipment
- search for location and shooting point
- choosing the optimal weather, time of day, season
- preparation of equipment, clothing suitable for the season and weather
- sighting shots with different settings
- The most labor-intensive stage is finding a place and selecting an angle, and the most expensive is assembling a “hiking backpack”, especially in the absence of any necessary equipment
Features of the terrain and landscape
Filming waterfalls and rivers has a number of advantages over other types - the object does not move, the landscape around does not change, so the time for preparation, shooting and the work itself is not limited. On the other hand, humidity, remoteness from civilization, and special photography modes do not have a very good effect on the camera. You must constantly ensure that no water gets on the camera.especially when changing lenses. There are often strong winds near waterfalls, so equipment should be safe, checked and securely fastened.
The following features are important when choosing a shooting mode:
- there are a lot of water particles in the air, each of which reflects and refracts light;
- splashes constantly fall on the lens, get ready to wipe it regularly (sometimes every 5 minutes) with a special cloth;
- streams move very quickly;
- the difference between the color of the water and the surrounding landscape can be very large, some areas turn out to be excessively dark;
- Not only the waterfall itself is important, but also the composition in the frame.
Necessary equipment
When it comes to the necessary equipment, it is understood that there are free funds that can easily be spent on purchasing tools. That the photographer is inexperienced and does not have enough equipment. That filming of this kind will not be the last in the work, and all the equipment will serve for a long time.
Camera. If you already have a camera, and it’s good enough, then feel free to move on to the next point. The main thing is that the camera has a manual settings mode, the ability to shoot at long shutter speeds, the lens is interchangeable, and the technical characteristics and internal menu are carefully studied. If you want, you can shoot beautifully with an inexpensive camera, if you have a good lens and the right skills. If you choose a model, then let it be a “DSLR” with an image stabilization mode, the ability to shoot in RAW and use lenses, and if it also does not have a crop factor, then it will be much easier to shoot. The remaining moments are successfully compensated by optics, correctly configured modes and a well-chosen tripod.
Lens. Small waterfalls are often surrounded by rocks, trees and flow through narrow gorges. Therefore, use a wide-format lens for such shootings, preferably a “zoom” type with a focal length of 18-20 mm. This lens is universal for a “landscape photographer” or a wedding photographer. If you plan to shoot a lot and for a long time in these genres, buy a good, expensive wide-format camera. It will serve for a long time and will allow you to efficiently perform almost all necessary activities and moments.
Tripod. Filming a waterfall requires wind and uneven surfaces to place the camera on. Therefore, the tripod must be of high quality and stable; not only frame stabilization, but also the safety of the camera depends on it. The number of turning directions in this situation is not as important as stability and workload. The latter must exceed the weight of the camera with lens and filter. And the ability to adjust the height of each leg separately will help you position the tripod more firmly on uneven surfaces.
Filters. It is quite difficult to photograph fast-moving water without filters; it turns out lifeless or too lubricated. Because water reflects and refracts the light falling on it, creating glare and overexposed pixels. For waterfalls, two filters are usually used: neutral gray and polarizing. The first evens out the color and removes glare from water flows, the second makes them more transparent and natural, reducing the overall brightness of the image. A modern version of the professional filter - variable gray - performs the function of the above and allows you to adjust the degree of darkness.
Replaceable batteries. A lot has been written about this on all forums and some photographers still find themselves in this situation. The camera uses a lot of power at long exposures, so the batteries drain quickly. A replaceable unit or spare batteries will come to the rescue. On a cold hike, even a double set. They take up little space, but the benefits are obvious.
Additional memory cards. The same situation arises with the camera’s memory; when shooting for a long time, the pictures are saved in RAW. It’s better to take several cards of 16 or 32 GB, this will make it easier to find what you need later, and there will be less lag when saving. Flash drives weigh and take up even less space than batteries, so you should have an extra 2-3 in reserve. An important point is to empty the memory cards immediately after shooting, so you don’t accidentally delete photos from someone’s wedding in the process.
Microfiber cloths for the lens. A waterfall is a wet enough phenomenon that you will have to get close enough to the water to capture interesting shots. Splashes from the streams will constantly fall on the lens glass. Take several special cloths for optics; you will have to wipe the lens every 5-7 minutes.
Time of day, weather
The waterfall is beautiful in any weather and at any time of the day, you just need to find the right angle and settings. In the daytime, excess light should be extinguished with filters, and at night, set the ISO higher to capture all the details. In summer, the waterfall is beautifully complemented by flowers, grass, and trees; in winter, everything is covered with fancy snow patterns. In spring and autumn, due to rain, most waterfalls become more powerful and the flow stronger. Some waterfalls flow very weakly during the hot period; this must be taken into account when choosing the time of year for filming. A preliminary visit to the site will allow you to assess the situation and select the optimal set of tools.
The same applies to the weather - it’s more difficult to shoot in rain or snow, but they won’t interfere with making beautiful shots if you want. The scorching sun is unpleasant for the photographer and the camera, but gives amazing shimmer on the water. Autumn is famous for fogs over the water; in the morning and late evening you can catch thick beautiful clouds over the waterfall. You can determine the desired weather using forecasts.
Camera settings and modes
Non-standard shooting always requires non-standard approaches and certain deviations from the shooting norm. The waterfall is no exception; we will shoot in RAW format, so that later we can correct the shortcomings during the processing process.
The first step is to set the settings to manual; it will allow you to avoid standard problems with focus and ISO. You can photograph the movement of water using a short or long shutter speed, the results will be completely different.
Keeping the aperture as closed as possible with a long shutter speed will reduce the amount of noise, while detailing will be at a fairly high level. To “find” the desired value, put it in the middle position and decrease it one step; when the quality goes down, you will immediately notice. It is better not to use extreme values (fully open or maximally closed aperture), as the resulting images are unlikely to please you with clarity and sharpness.
We set the ISO value to the minimum possible in this situation; when shooting during the day, light is additionally reflected from the water, which can lead to glare and flare. Long shutter speeds will enhance the effect; they themselves add noise and grain to the picture, and a large amount of light and information on the matrix will create a cacophony of colors.
Let's talk about exposure, each shooting is a unique and inimitable phenomenon. Weather conditions, camera, photographer's experience - everything requires trial shots and different options. We start with 1-2 seconds, increasing and decreasing the shutter speed as necessary at different settings. The optimal values range from 1 to 30 seconds; the longer the shutters are open, the more the water boundaries blur. Typically 20-30 sighting shots will reveal the most appropriate parameters for the situation.
Tips for shooting waterfalls from experienced photographers
The combination of parameters is best determined experimentally, so preparation for shooting can last several hours, and the shooting itself can take an hour or two. What novice photographers need to know before they start shooting waterfalls:
Long and short shutter speeds have a number of significant differences, each with its own advantages. Water can be removed at any value. With a short one, the flows will be natural, transparent, with a long one, they will merge into a stream and blur. Both effects look beautiful in photographs. An ultra-short shutter speed will allow you to capture seething streams, splashes and droplets of water in the air.
- Don’t rush to shoot right away, walk around, look for an angle for unusual shooting. Sometimes the appearance of one branch in the frame gives more than the entire composition. Fill the frame in all shots so that the photo shows more than just the waterfall itself. Rocks, boulders and cascades under the flow of water look gorgeous in the photo.
- The shooting angle should be at the level of the river flow, from below and against the movement of the water, in order to convey grandeur and dynamics. Experiment with scale, focus on individual details around the waterfall.
- “All weather is good…”, or practice shooting in any weather. If you can turn the vagaries of nature to your advantage, you can get a wonderful shot. In cloudy weather, natural light is scattered by clouds, and during rain, nature comes to life with new colors and shades, shadows become richer and colors more saturated.
- Taking close-up shots of water can produce amazing results. Bubbles at a shutter speed of 4 to 6 seconds draw fancy spirals on the photo, and pitfalls and obstacles form a pattern on the surface.
- If you exclude the sky from the picture, you can slightly “fill up the horizon” to improve the perception of the picture. In addition, the sky is a strong contrast with the gloomy wet stones and will appear as a white area in the photo.
- Display the histogram on the display; often the pictures come out overexposed, which is not always noticeable on the camera screen. During sighting shots, and during the shooting process, compare your inner feeling with the schedule and adjust the settings.
By applying these tips, you can get fairly decent pictures the first time, and with regular work, within a couple of months you can reach a completely different level of quality. Technical characteristics of the camera, weather, equipment, additional equipment - nothing can replace the automaticity of practiced skills, personal experience and developed photographic vision.
11651 Improving your skills 0
We continue to improve our knowledge in landscape photography. For me personally, this is a very difficult direction, despite its apparent simplicity, and it still does not give complete satisfaction from my photographs. That is why so much attention in our photography school is paid to the landscape, perhaps too much.
Landscapes in which water is present are extremely beautiful. From a flat, calm lake to a raging waterfall, water can dramatically change the mood of your photo. Let's look at four non-standard approaches that will help you depict water in different ways. This short lesson is dedicated to this.
Small depth of field
Shooting with a short focal length and a large aperture value (from 11 or more) is the most commonly used, but not the only way to depict natural reliefs. Why not look at them “from a different angle” - photograph with a shallow depth of field? This idea is effectively realized if there is an object like a flower, rock or tree in the foreground. It is these objects that can be brought into sharp focus.
For maximum effect, set your aperture to a small value, such as 4, and focus on a point in space that is as close to you as possible. The greater the distance between the point you sharpened and the background, the more “blurred” the image of the latter you can get.
At water level
Most often we look at the landscape from our height. Why not try lowering the viewpoint? When photographing the surface of the water, lower the camera as close to the water as possible. In addition to showing the scene you are shooting from a different angle, all kinds of reflections in the water surface will help enrich your photos.
Below the water level
How about installing the camera so that both the above-water world and the underwater world are visible in the frame? This approach will make your photos spectacular and original! But you shouldn't plunge your expensive camera into water. Take care in advance to protect the equipment from contact with liquid. To shoot in such conditions, you can use a cheap fish tank instead of expensive underwater camera equipment. To avoid worrying about the safety of your camera, first test the tank for leaks.
Additionally, you can install a neutral density gradient filter (ND Grad) in front of the front lens of the lens, which reduces the transmitted light through its absorbing part. In this way we equalized the lighting under and above the water. For convenience, use the remote control to release the shutter.
This setup is suitable for use in calm water, not at sea, as the top of the tank remains open and splashes can enter. In addition, due to any disturbance on the water, it is virtually impossible to fix the interface between the two media as smooth. And on the front panel of the tank, through which the lens “looks,” drops remain.
It may seem a little strange to walk around with a camera and an empty aquarium. But this is an excellent solution for implementing the proposed technique. It is easier to level the “horizon” in a parallelepiped-shaped glass tank than in devices and cases designed for underwater photography.
Creating vertical panoramas
We often see horizontal panoramas, but rivers and waterfalls may not fit into the usual “framework”. If a river flows down a slope and falling water falls off a cliff, the photograph will look more impressive in the vertical panorama format.
The simplest way to make a vertical panorama is to take photographs while holding the camera in a vertical position, and during the processing stage, crop to the panorama. If you want a high-resolution image for large-format printing, take a series of "horizontal" photos and combine them into a panorama in the editor.
That's all for today. Brief and untiring. I hope this tutorial was as helpful to you as it was to me.
All the photography to you!
There are different ways to look at water, such as a captivating backdrop from Hollywood movies, a dreamy forest stream... or perhaps as an element full of movement. Learn how to photograph water and what laws of photography it obeys. Let our six tips for photographing water help you improve your creative path.
The advantage of aquaphoto is that water landscapes are all around us. And almost every form of water can look good in photos. You can even find great shooting locations right near your home. And if suddenly you feel like “something” is missing, you can go further by water...
Photographing "Big" water
Large surfaces of water such as ponds, lakes and seas can look very impressive on camera. Look at the surface of the water at sunset, you will be surprised by what you see.
Canon 5D Mark IV, Canon EF 16-35/2.8 III, 1/13 S, F/18, ISO 100, 16mm focal length
The resulting image directly depends on the exposure. In the top example the shutter speed is 1/13 sec, but the picture will change dramatically as the exposure changes. So if you plan to use a gradient filter, or an ND filter, stop down the aperture too much to get greater depth of field, you will have to use , to minimize camera shake and be able to capture water at slow shutter speeds. Please note that the movement of the water will be blurred, and the picture will have a more dreamlike look.
Same place. Shot with Canon 5D Mark IV, Canon EF 16-35/2.8 III, 2.5S, F/22, ISO 100, 24mm focal length
Water photography is not an excuse to shoot only at sunset. You can also take photos throughout the day. You can also shoot large expanses of water, such as the sea. To prevent your photo from being boring, include a coastline in the landscape.
Canon 5D Mark II, Canon EF 16-35/2.8 II, 1/80 S, F/7.1, ISO 100, 16mm focal length
How to Photograph Surface Reflections
Coastlines look interesting on the surface of the water. Trees, buildings, mountain peaks - everything that is reflected in the water adds a unique story to the picture.
Canon 5D Mark III, Canon EF 16-35/2.8 II, 1/60 S, F/11, ISO 100, 35mm focal length
Please note that these photos can only be taken in very calm water. Study the "weather behavior" in a specific area. The photo above was taken early in the morning, the wind was strong the rest of the day and the top of the Matterhorn was only visible once.
It is easier to get a good image if the subjects are very close to a small water surface where there are no large waves, for example. The best candidates for water photography are small garden pools or small park lakes.
Canon 5D Mark II, Canon EF 16-35/2.8 II 1/320 sec, F/5.6, ISO 100, 20mm focal length
Another thing to keep in mind when shooting reflections: while for landscape photography it is recommended to place the horizon line quite high or vice versa low, when photographing the surface of the water it is best to place the horizon in the middle. Thus, due to symmetry, it will be possible to convey majesty and the photo will really shine. But you don't have to adhere to this recommendation at all costs; with sufficiently calm water surfaces, you can even take wonderful photos, as shown below.
Canon 350D, Macro-Revuenon 24/4, 1/40 s, probably f/8, ISO 100, focal length 24 mm
How to shoot water against the light
Backlit photographs require special photography skills. If you're lucky, the light won't be too intense and your camera will be able to capture the full dynamic range. In extreme cases, the sun will be too “fiery” in the picture. And since it is also reflected from the mirrored water surface, most of the image will be too bright.
If this problem is critical, there is an effective way to solve it. Take several identical photos with different exposure settings. A built-in camera function called " Exposure bracketing" (or similar). When you activate it, the camera will take a series of photos with different indicators when you press the shutter button. Next, combine the result into one photo in post-processing.
Canon 5D Mark IV, Canon EF 16-35/2.8 III, 1/160 to 1/1250 S, F/11, ISO 100, 23mm focal length
Photographing water using a polarizing filter
You can also use another trick for capturing reflections - use . Turn it until all unnecessary reflections disappear and you get a perfect water surface. To get an idea of the difference between shots with and without a polarizing filter, take a look at the couple of photos below.
Without polarizing filter. Canon 5D Mark IV, Canon EF 24-70/2.8 II, 1/80 sec, F/8, ISO 400, 25mm focal length
Using a polarizing filter. Canon 5D Mark IV, Canon EF 24-70/2.8 II, 1/80 sec, F/8, ISO 400, 25mm focal length
Meanwhile, you should not strive to always completely get rid of reflections. After all, they make water... water.
How to photograph water in fountains
The water in the city is quite photogenic. Since fountains are usually small in size, they can be easily walked around and photographed from different angles. This way you can take many different images in just a few seconds.
Canon 40D, Canon EF-S 10-22/3.5-4.5, 1/30S, F/8, ISO 100, 10mm focal length
Canon 40D, Canon EF-S 10-22/3.5-4.5, 1/160S, F/8, ISO 100, 10mm focal length
If the fountain is decorated with sculptures, you can choose the angle of shooting when they are reflected in the water. This will give you several more composition options.
Canon 40D, Canon EF-S 10-22/3.5-4.5, 1/80 S, F/8, ISO 100, 10mm focal length
Experimenting with your shutter speed can help bring your photo composition to life. Please note that a slow shutter speed will not freeze the movement of the water, the drops will be blurry. If you really want to stop the flow of the frame, use very fast shutter speeds.
Water jet close-up. Canon 5D Mark II, Canon EF 24-105/4, 1/640 S, F/4, ISO 200, 105mm focal length
Fountains photographed at night are another special case. In this case, using a tripod and long camera shutter speeds will help you capture the beauty of water with dignity. This is also a great way to get a shot without tourists. A long exposure works like an “anti-pipe filter”.
Canon 350D, Canon EF-S 18-55/3.5-5.6, 10.0S, F/22, ISO 100, 18mm focal length
Photographing water in streams and rivers
Flowing water can be a great way to add life to an image when photographing a landscape. Most of the frame can be occupied by the landscape itself, and the stream can add dynamics to the composition.
Pay attention to the shape of the watercourse. When it's just a straight line, you can get a good shot, but it won't be attractive, unless the arrow-straight water serves as a dynamic pointer and leads the viewer's eye to important subjects. Look for turns and fit them into the image. One common example is streams in a forest that form an S-shaped curve.
Canon 5D Mark III, Canon EF 16-35/2.8 II, 2.0 S, F/22, ISO 100, 16mm focal length
Try it
Take the photos from this one as a basis. Go to the nearest body of water and take pictures. An area near you can be very promising in terms of getting interesting photos of the water surface. Try it!
Canon 5D Mark III, Canon EF 70-200/2.8 IS II, 1.0s, F/16, ISO 100, 200mm focal length
Waterfalls are an interesting, but at the same time difficult, subject to photograph. Firstly, waterfalls are beautiful, secondly, they are often located in places with rather difficult lighting, and thirdly, they are very dynamic, because... are in constant motion. There are many tips for photographing waterfalls, but the main ones are quite simple:
1. Work with movement.
When photographing a moving subject, you can do it in two ways. Firstly, you can freeze motion using a high shutter speed, or vice versa, using a slow shutter speed, which will blur the moving subject, in our case water. Most photographers use the second option and blur the water, in which case you will need a digital camera and a tripod. A polarizing filter will also help if you have one.
2. How to photograph a waterfall.
Take a control photo. Before you start experimenting, turn on automatic mode, make sure the flash is off and take a photo of the waterfall. After taking a photo, pay attention to the shutter speed that the camera will select in automatic mode. Most likely, the camera will set a shutter speed at which the water will look frozen. The reference photo will be the starting point for comparing the results you get and the basis for choosing the shutter speed.
Shutter priority mode. Switch your camera to shutter priority mode. To get beautifully blurred water, try to use a shutter speed of one to two seconds.
Tripod. When photographing waterfalls, it is necessary that the camera be absolutely still while the camera shutter is open, this can be achieved with the help of a tripod. It sounds simple: set the camera on a tripod, set the shutter priority mode, set the shutter speed to 1-2 seconds and take a photo. But, unfortunately, in most cases everything is much more complicated. The problem with increasing the shutter speed is that more light enters the camera, and even on a fairly dark and cloudy day you will find that the photo is overexposed (even though in shutter priority mode, the camera will set the minimum aperture to compensate for slow shutter speed).
There are a few other tips you can use to reduce the amount of light entering your camera to improve your exposure levels.
Shooting time. Choose the right time of day and you'll have more opportunities to use longer shutter speeds. The best time is around sunset and dawn. It is also preferable to shoot on cloudy days rather than on sunny ones.
Filters. It will also help to use filters that will limit light entering the camera. There are many filters available, but I prefer to use a polarizing one, which not only limits unwanted light, but also helps improve your photos (by reducing the glare and reflections that abound in waterfalls). Another filter that can be useful is a neutral density filter, which helps reduce the amount of light - much like wearing sunglasses.
Aperture priority mode. If the shutter speed problem persists even when shooting in darker conditions and using filters, then try switching to aperture priority mode and selecting the smallest aperture value. On most cameras this is f22 or f36. The result of the selection will be that the camera will automatically select the slowest shutter speed for a given aperture. It may not be 2 seconds, but either way the shutter speed will be longer than your reference shot, resulting in more blurry water. Also, using a smaller aperture will allow for greater depth of field and more of the waterfall will be in focus.
Low ISO. Choosing a lower ISO will reduce the camera's sensitivity to light and allow the camera's shutter to stay open longer. This will also allow you to avoid unnecessary noise and grain and get more interesting details.
The correct shutter speed is, of course, important when photographing waterfalls, but there are also equally important points.
Bracketing images. When photographing waterfalls, it is important to take a series of shots at different shutter speeds and apertures. This can produce different views of the same scene with different water clarity, depth of field, and color levels.
Composition. Waterfalls can be photographed from different angles and in different ways, from wide-angle shots that show off the full beauty of the falls, to cropped shots that focus on small sections. Also pay attention to how the water flows. Somewhere there are multiple streams, somewhere there are splashes, somewhere there is a single stream. Try different angles on the waterfall and experiment with how different parts will look at different shutter speeds.
5. Don't get too carried away with blurring the water in your frame.
It's hard to resist the silky smooth flow of water, but don't make it your only subject. Try ultra fast shutter speed photography. This shooting method is especially effective for shooting rushing waterfalls with a lot of spray. Also, slower shutter speeds will require you to use a larger aperture, which will result in a shallower depth of field and add more interest to your photos.
After reading the theory, move on to practice and experiment, thereby improving your photographs.
NIKON D810 / 18.0-35.0 mm f/3.5-4.5 SETTINGS: ISO 31, F18, 30 s, 18.0 mm equiv.
Many photographers know a technique that can beautifully blur the water of a sea surf or a stormy mountain stream. But you have to travel far both across the sea and beyond mountain streams.
You can practice photographing water without leaving the city. To do this, you should pay attention to the city fountains.
The fountains of VDNKh in Moscow have become one of the calling cards of the capital. The most recognizable of them is “Friendship of Peoples”.
NIKON D810 / 18.0-35.0 mm f/3.5-4.5 SETTINGS: ISO 31, F14, 30 s, 18.0 mm equiv.
To blur the water, you need to take pictures at a long shutter speed, several tens of seconds. During such shootings, it is advisable to use a tripod. As for the camera, it must have a manual shooting mode. This will allow you to adjust the shutter speed within the required limits.
DSLR cameras are a good choice. They all have manual shooting modes, and many are affordable and easy to operate (like the Nikon D3300).
I used my main working tool for shooting - Nikon D810. This camera, along with the Nikon D7200 and Nikon D750, is suitable for advanced photographers. It is most convenient to use wide-angle optics as a lens. It will allow you to capture the entire scene, creating a real landscape shot. A kit lens (for example, 18-55, 18-105 or 18-140) can be used for our needs at a minimum focal length - it will give a fairly wide viewing angle. If we talk about specialized wide-angle optics, then for “cropped” Nikon cameras we can recommend the Nikon 12-24mm f/4G ED-IF AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor lens, and for full-frame ones - the lightweight and inexpensive Nikon AF-S 18-35mm f/3.5-4.5G ED Nikkor or the legendary Nikon AF-S 14-24mm f/2.8G ED.
If you try to take long exposure photos outdoors during the day, you will most likely fail because it is too light during the day. The chances of taking a successful shot in such conditions are higher if you have a high-density neutral gray filter (minimum ND64) lying around - with it you can significantly reduce the light flux passing through the lens. If there is no such filter, then it is most convenient to photograph at dusk.
In the evening, city illumination combines perfectly with natural light. And at night, when there is only electric lighting, photography is not so interesting, because the lighting becomes harsh, with contrasting shadows. As a result, the sky in the photo will be black and the lights will be too bright.
Think about the composition of the photo: find the foreground, determine the vantage point for shooting. Surely it will not be at your height, so try to sit down a little. As a rule, frames taken from low points look quite impressive.
To be able to shoot at long shutter speeds while maintaining high quality images, pay attention to the white balance setting. At dusk, I usually use the Shade or Cloudy white balance preset. If you're shooting late at night, it makes sense to use the Incandescent setting, as it's better suited to lantern light. Better yet, take photographs in RAW format, then you can adjust the optimal white balance during processing.
Having practiced photographing fountains, you will not be at a loss when taking pictures while traveling - on the seashore or in the mountains.
