How to make hinges for dolls. Guide for creating a doll for dummies
Article type:
A response to my own frustrations about the lack of a tutorial on how to make an articulated doll.
Well, let's go))) I hope my guide will bring you more luck)
Step 1: Planning Your Doll
Time to start planning. Please put a tick in your brain that this, like all subsequent steps in this guide, are important. At a minimum, plan to make all the doll clothes, accessories, wig and eyes yourself and never sell them, that's something you need to think about. The first thing you need to plan is the size your doll.
There are several traditional size definitions used by puppeteers for articulated puppets. This is due to the fact that the factory manufacturers of dolls, when buying, selling (or if you were given a doll) try to make it easier to select the right size of clothes and other accessories for them. Also, it can be very difficult to make realistic eyes and hair for a doll, so you can buy ready-made wigs and acrylic eyes made by professionals)) Buying eyes that fit well in the doll's head can be a disaster.
Dimensions:
TINY BJD: These dolls are mostly around 6 inches height sometimes there are quite crumbs about 4 inches high (15-10cm). Standard Price for such dolls from about $ 100 to $ 300. Pros: dolls are adorable, easy to store, cheap to make, mainly designed for children and easily fit into factory dollhouses Cons: very catastrophically difficult to work over such a doll and fit all the details to each other friend. also, due to the small size of the elastic band that connects all the details can be not durable. |  |
CUTIE BJD: These dolls are usually made to look like children, the growth of such dolls is about 8-11 inches (20-28cm) and the cost of such dolls is about $ 200-400 Pros: They are usually popular with people adoring babies or baby dolls, only more realistic. not expensive to make Cons: because of the small size enough complex in sculpting, detailing and fitting parts to each other. Also, the rubber band can often break. when stretched. |  |
DOLLFIE: DLOFI is actually a brand of dolls made by Volks. usually their height is about 12 inches (~30 cm) is the same as a standard barbie. a doll of this size costs about $30-100. Pros: You can use Barbie accessories which are quite cheap. They are still small but better posture than TINY BJD. Cons: again, difficulties in working with details and rubber band. Due to the size it is difficult to make a good one. sculpting detail. |  |
MiNI or CHILD BJD: they are usually made similar for cute kids) their size is about 11-14 inches (28-35cm). The cost is about $250-500 Pros: These dolls are GREAT for making baby dolls for adult size BJD dolls they are proportional) Cons: Difficult to sculpt harmoniously detailing for both adult BJD and for a child. Clothes of similar size dolls may not fit due to proportions close to Chibi proportions. |  |
LARGE or SUPER BJD: the largest size for BJD dolls and the most popular. The growth of such dolls reaches 22-27.5 inches (56-71cm) and cost them maybe over a thousand evergreens. Pros: Dolls are very realistic and enough big even huge. If you are good at skill of modeling and casting, then you can raise enough money to sell these dolls. Cons: They are big. May be difficult to store them safe. They also need clothes and personal wardrobe. They can be expensive to manufacture. |  |
Another not unimportant detail that needs to be taken into account is the area of \u200b\u200bthe working space. A small doll is simpler and easier to make than a large doll, which can take up a lot of space and make more of a mess. clothes and other accessories for large dolls, when you don't make them yourself, are substantially more expensive than clothes for small dolls, due to the more laborious process involved in making them to look more realistic.
A good size for beginners, believe it or not, this is a big doll. It is easier to fill your hand for sculpting, grinding, fitting parts and, as a rule, they are stronger. As always, a bigger doll, more cost in making it. I advise you to practice making MiNY BJD or DOLLFIE size dolls at the beginning, it will not be so expensive in materials, will not create a lot of mess for you and is not difficult to sculpt.
Step 2: building a drawing of the doll
The most frequently overlooked step by impatient puppeteers is the most important drawing.
Don't skip this step. I'm serious. The most important for making a correctly proportioned doll! Without a drawing, you can miss out on one leg being larger than the other, a crumpled or flat face, and any sizing issues. The key is symmetry. Don't skip this step.
What we are going to do now is to draw the doll in front and on the side in her real future growth.
The drawing must be drawn on thick paper that is quite difficult to damage and drawn or outlined with ink that will not fade over time. Making a doll takes a lot of time, and the drawing will be needed until the very end.
Preparing materials: what we need
1. A sheet of paper large enough to fit a drawing of a full-length doll, front and side i.e. twice)))
any thick paper, cardboard or drawing paper.*
2. Ruler or tape measure (you may need for large drawings), officer's ruler or compasses.
3. Pencils and eraser
4. Pen or special varnish to protect your drawing from fading.
5. music))
*you can also buy graph paper and protect it.
Turn on the music) This is the secret to long work and greater concentration. I can't do anything for long without her)
Next, put the paper in front of you on the table, on the left side of it, put the ruler to the top left edge of the paper. We begin to draw the exact size of our doll to the millimeter. Find 1 inch or 1 cm on the ruler, depending on which ruler you are using. Make a small mark on the edge of the paper exactly 1 cm.
(remember, the size of the paper should fit the full height of the doll TWO times, 1 in front and 1 on the side. this is not critical but it will save you from disappointment later.)
Using a ruler or tape measure, make marks along the entire height of the leaf exactly 1 cm. Usually lengths the entire ruler is not enough to make marks on the entire height of the sheet, use the last mark as the beginning of the sheet, move the ruler down and keep marking like at the beginning. |  |
When you're done, and mark as many as close to the edge as you can do the same on the other side of the sheet. |  |
Also, I'm sure that my drawing is not very neat... Therefore, I do not recommend using it for comparison xDDD
Next, you need to find something even and long enough so that you can draw a line from one edge of the paper to the other. It can be anything with a flat and even edge (something you won't cut yourself with) to keep the pencil straight. I usually use a piece of the same paper, a ruler, a large sheet of cardboard or whatman paper, which also has a smooth edge)
Lay a ruler or whatever you have chosen across the paper, using the first marks as guides. Now carefully align the ruler by connecting the first dots from both ends of the sheet. When you've leveled the ruler, hold it firmly so that it doesn't move and draw a straight, dark line across the entire width of the paper. Do this all over the sheet.
Now you have lined paper) Good job. I hope everything went smoothly and your squares will not be all different sizes, as in the sample I gave, they should all be the same)
Next, you must decide what proportions your doll will have. Practice drawing on a blank sheet of paper, or several, until you are sure that you have achieved the balance you need in the image) This stage in the creation of the doll requires artistic skills, since you must draw at least something similar to a person with suitable proportions. Practice drawing a person with the proportions you need from the front and side in a natural relaxed pose. You will need to transfer the details to the drawing to be sure that everything will be neat. And remember: drawing from the side and front.
This part of the guide will help you make parts of the drawing symmetrical.
So, you have a pretty image for your future doll, on a SEPARATE large, durable sheet, drawn (or painted) in front, as shown in picture #1. You will notice a slight asymmetry between the arms, legs, sides of the face, etc.
To fix this, you will need to erase the less desirable half of the body, circle the remaining half, and make a mirror image to complete the picture. There are several ways to do this.
I'll tell you the easiest way I know.
note: you can also draw the hinges in the next step which will help you make them symmetrical as well. In master classes, they often skip this and go straight to the finished drawing.
A do-it-yourself articulated doll is quite real. And confirmation of this is the mass of master classes of beginner needlewomen. If you have perseverance and scrupulousness, you have good modeling skills and artistic taste, then it is likely that you will understand how to make a articulated doll the first time and everything will work out.
We will try to tell and show in detail for beginners everything about the process of creating a articulated doll with our own hands. The whole process will be accompanied by a photo. The photos were taken from different master classes, since after reviewing many, we did not find the ideal ones, which show everything in full. But at the heart of 2 of them: from the author Minchenko Tatyana Vladimirovna and tatala.
Articulated dolls are cast and molded (plastic, papier-mâché, clay, porcelain). Let's look at the 2nd option, since it is less expensive. And the materials can be bought in a set.
The whole process of creating your own doll can be divided into 3 large stages:
- Preparation of tools, materials, idea of a doll and drawing a sketch.
- Modeling, baking, primary processing and the first assembly of the doll.
- Finishing and artistic transformation.
Preparation of tools, materials, idea of a doll and drawing a sketch
Tools must be prepared in advance, so as not to get into a hopeless situation later and not spoil the work. You will need your manicure set, and preferably a dental one. You will need tiny drills, files, needle files, an awl, wire of different thicknesses, an elastic band (round), sandpaper of different textures, as well as brushes. You need a set like this. And most importantly, plastic is a self-hardening material that is capricious - it does not tolerate drying out!).
Even before starting work, you need to come up with an image of your doll to the smallest detail: age, gender, physique. We recommend everything sketch. For a natural body look, you need to study anatomical structure. Of course, you can do it easier - just take sketch from the internet, but then the doll will be deprived of individuality. But for starters, you can. Also take optimal size: 15-20 cm is small and requires special painstaking and skill, 50-60 cm is large and will take a lot of time and expense, 25-30 cm is the very thing!
So, you can take such a sketch
Modeling, baking, primary processing and the first assembly of the doll
We proceed to the second most laborious stage. I suggest sculpting body parts in the following order:
- body and head;
- hinges (globs);
- leg-arm and articulated fit.
All parts must be hollow except for the hands and feet.
Body molding can be done in several ways. 2 optimal ones - based on foam (take with a fine texture - it will be easier to cut out the desired shapes) and based on foil (wrap in cling film to make it easier to pull out later). In both versions, we make the base 8-10 mm smaller than the sketch and try to fit the base to the sketch as clearly as possible.
We build up the molded base with clay (with gradual baking for 15 minutes and put in a cold oven) or plastic to the desired proportions. Do not forget to constantly apply the workpiece to the sketch and check for symmetry. Of course, we rub with sandpaper until smooth. In the lower part of the body, you need to make round recesses for the hip joints. The same should be done for the shoulders, only smaller. In the same way, we make blanks for legs and arms.
This is how the head turns out. There is a lot of work - you need to gradually get to the right facial expression. The stages of modeling can be mastered with the help of albums on modeling people.
When the torso and head are relatively ready, we proceed to the hinges. We need such a set.
You can simply roll them to the desired size (we put them in the recesses on the body), or you can use cling film. It is very important to sculpt the hinges of the correct spherical shape so that the chrysalis moves well.
While it dries, you can mold the hands and feet.
Now let's move on to the next step. We need to cut the torso with a nail file like this and pull out the foil or foam.
Get it.
Now we carefully cut out the upper part until the cut is smooth and reduce the inner part in thickness so that it can be put on the upper part.
We also cut the legs and arms at the places of the supposed fold. Clean out the foil.
As you can see, the upper hinges in the legs and arms are already glued. We apply the necessary hinges and glue it on the plastic to the bottom, stretch the desired shapes, clean it. We clean the upper part and rub it in a semicircular shape so that the hinges go well.
We also do the legs. With glued balls it turns out like this.
But you can make not a ball in the knee, but a hinge. This is how it looks.
If we make balls, then before inserting them into the legs, you need to cut holes in the hinges with a drill. Like this.
Preparing feet and hands for assembly. To do this, we cut holes with a nail file and insert hooks.
So we prepare the head.
Provided that you like all the shapes, everything is sanded and smooth, we are ready for the first assembly. To do this, we collect gum as follows.
This is a hand mount. The elastic is carried from top to bottom and clings to the hook of the wrist.
The next elastic band is for connecting the head and legs. Also, using a homemade hook, we stretch the elastic band to the feet.
We try to see if our creation is worth it, if all the details are in place, if they rub anything.
Finishing and artistic transformation
Now we disassemble, cover with pink pastel, tint the body and face. And we collect again. Next, we make hair, paint, dress!
So, have you always liked to model something, and do you look with delight at the sophisticated dolls on the shelves of the store? But did you know that articulated ones are made very simply, and the result most often exceeds the counter goods? However, it is worth considering that the occupation requires patience and perseverance. In this case, the result of the work will please you and your loved ones. You will have your own beautiful doll, which will be original and unique.
Articulated dolls: making
First of all, we choose the material for work. It will be plastic for modeling, which can be purchased at a specialized store. We make the base-body from ordinary foil and wrap it with cling film - this is our frame. In the same way, we do the rest of the body of the doll. After our plastic hardens, we take out the foil from the doll. Thus, we save material.
Next, we will work on the detailing: cut the arms and legs into three parts. We attach hinges to the hips. These parts must have a perfect spherical shape.
fold in the correct order, make small holes for the thread.
We sculpt the feet and use wire for the base in the fingers.
The smoothness and flawlessness of the skin is the main highlight that articulated dolls can boast of. With your own hands, you need to polish the entire body, using a soft cloth for this. On the head of the doll we make a small indentation, where the hair will then be attached. We pay special attention to those places where the hinges are held. If you leave the surface rough, then these parts will subsequently scratch it.
We collect all the parts of the doll together, check that they fit perfectly with each other. Next, prime the parts of the body. We also use acrylic paint. We paint the details with an acrylic decorative coating. To make it more convenient to work, we put the parts on the cocktail tubes. After priming and complete drying, we rub the dry pink pastel and slightly outline the bulges on the body of our doll with it. Then varnished. You can use silky-glossy, or you can use matte.
Now the most interesting part begins - we paint the face of the doll. Don't forget to highlight the eyes. To do this, you can use which are attached to super glue. Use a toothpick to secure your hair so you don't get your hands dirty. We fasten the hair into a notch made in advance on the head.
We collect all the parts of the doll together. We make small holes in the feet and hands, where we insert a flexible wire. For it we cling an elastic band. We use one to connect the arms and legs together, and the second to connect the head and chest. We tie the rubber bands tightly together. So, you have seen that BJD articulated dolls are not such a difficult task. The main thing is to show your imagination and set out to bring the matter to the end. In this case, your craft will be worthy of the brightest applause.
Articulated dolls with their own hands are a kind of exclusive, so they are widely in demand around the world. When creating your model, put as much personality into it as possible, never be afraid to experiment. And draw inspiration from the faces of dancers and actresses. It is worth warning that do-it-yourself articulated dolls should be started after you create a few anatomical sketches of your full-length doll.
Let's start. Part one, for me the most uninteresting and even boring ... but you can not do without it.
First you need to make a drawing. Or take any ready-made one from the Internet ... like this. But it seems to me that it’s better to draw it yourself ... so your doll will be different from others, with its own author’s personality. Think about what kind of finished doll you want to see ... plump ... thin ... what age .
For work, this time I use fimo puppen miniature. As always, food foil and a few tools that make the job easier.
We make blanks from foil, from time to time we apply them to the drawing ...
Stick to size and shape.
We stick with a thin layer of plastic. Approximately 1mm-1.5mm. We bend the already stuck blanks in the right direction and bake in the oven at the temperature indicated on the pack of plastic that you will use. We put in a cold oven for 15-20 minutes. To be continued ...
If there are any strongly convex bumps, then you need to fix it with the help of sandpaper or there are sponges for polishing nails so that nothing sticks out too much. Rub not to fanaticism, but just smooth it out a little.
Then an interesting thing begins .... but difficult. We stock up on an anatomical atlas and study where which muscles are located. A great option is to look at yourself in the mirror with different eyes ... ... children are also wonderful objects for this business. For my daughter, it will no longer be a surprise if I moreover - for no reason I’ll say “show your knees” or “show your shoulder blades.” She will demonstrate them to me with pleasure, and then she will be proud that she took part in the creation of a new doll))). More to the point.
I always start sculpting from the torso. The first time I sculpted from the head and made a mistake with the size .... it turned out to be too small. In addition, it will be easier to pick up facial features if the body already exists (this is the case for me). already baked plastic. We try not to touch fresh plastic (already molded parts). Attention!!! We sculpt only in front of the torso. We don’t touch the back part at all. And thus, looking at ourselves, children, we try to repeat the atlas. This is, as it were, a three-dimensional drawing.
Adding a Neck
Add small details and chest
And so gradually we go down we go down ...
and bake again for 15-20 minutes. We put it in a cold oven. I clarify this then that it will be a completely different time when it is hot.
So on ... a good three with sandpaper, removing all the bumps (three just before what they did last) Three to the conscience. First large, then smaller.
Now we turn over and perform the same actions with the other side. At the same time, holding the baked part.
We bake, cool, three. We try to observe symmetry. I don’t have symmetry yet, but now the main thing is to do the main thing, and then you can refine it.
We make legs from sticks ... (sorry for the background ... this is my worksheet on which I bake the parts)
bake, three ... after baking, it will be possible to correct the symmetry ... add somewhere ... cut off somewhere
The next stage ... and let the hand not tremble)) cut the carcass
We take out all the foil, helping ourselves with tweezers and other hand tools.
Slightly round the edges of the lower part and cut off the thickness of the upper part
it should turn out something like this so that the top is worn a little on the bottom
add roundness at the bottom and build up the chest
I try to make such a breast model for the first time, I try something new on each doll (hinges, type of figure, etc.) Otherwise, it’s not interesting to do the same thing.
Remembering childhood and rolling balls
bake, three a little ... so that each time to repeat, I’ll clarify ... bake each time for 15-20 minutes NO MORE !!! into a cold oven. And only when everything is ready, bake for the last time for 30 minutes according to the instructions. I explain ... if you bake longer, then it will be difficult to rub with sandpaper.
cut out holes for the femoral joints, trying on the balls.
And traditionally we bake. It’s better not to bake according to this scheme, but to save up several parts to bake at the same time (to save electricity)
At the moment we have this.
since I am not planning an anorexic, we are building meat on the legs ...
for some reason I missed the moment when you need to stick the balls to the legs
we do the same with the hands ... from the sticks we make a semblance of hands and stick the balls, in the body we make holes for them.
Continued tomorrow...
We cut out the insides, leaving a thin wall. Despite the fact that it is thin ... it is still strong.
We finish the handles, stick the balls to the bottom and cut the top to a thin wall, like the legs.
we make blanks for the palms and feet
Well ... let's continue ... I didn’t have time to post it yesterday, but this does not mean that the work was standing)))
We have knee joints ready. About how to make them ... sculpt something like this
Front view
Side view
try on to the legs ... and long and hard rub and spit, adjusting and trying on ... otherwise I can’t explain this process. fitted) and the middle between them, as it were, a continuation of the leg. Here are the hinges that I make this time in work
we also got legs (I made a heeled foot, as I'm going to make her shoes or sandals with heels)
and pens
now for the technical part...drilling, cutting holes and making s-hooks
Here is a test build
I don't want to scare you, but that's only half the job.
Now we disassemble everything again and three until we turn blue, meticulously examining and looking for jambs. First with a larger skin, then smaller.
Assembling again. If you add these cups to the elbow joints ...
then the mobility of the hands is doubled
twist, turn, see if everything works well ...
start making the head
And then I got so carried away ... that I forgot to take a photo of the intermediate process, so I describe it in words.
We cut out two round holes in the head blank, insert the pre-prepared eyes there, close up with plastic from the inside (you can see it in the first photo) and start making the face.
everything is already here except for the eyes
Then we tone the body and face (optional)
photo with a flash, in fact it is not so shiny, more like a shine like healthy human skin ... tomorrow I will take another picture in daylight. The eyes are still in the process. Apparently tomorrow I will set and finish the master class.
So here are the eyes. On the first photo you can see how they are initially. Then we paint the recess in the desired color, draw the pupil and cover it in several layers with varnish so that there is a hemisphere on top.
here they are in dry form
here are the dried
in the head we have prepared such recesses for the eyes
insert eyes
stick with a piece of raw plastic
and voila.....))) they are already looking at us...
here are our pens
and legs
generally
Well, our master class ended ... it turned out in 10 days. Thank you for your attention. I wish you all creative success and hope to see your topics, with your articulated dolls (I hope I worked up an appetite for you). Well, now who goes where, and we choose the image, make a topic about the doll itself and get ready for the shopik)). Good luck to everyone!
The popularity of articulated dolls is easy to explain. After all, it reproduces an exact copy of a person, with all the anatomical features. The design, using hinges at the fastening points, makes them very flexible, and endows them with the ability to take a variety of poses and even express mood.
Many mistakenly believe that we owe the invention of articulated dolls to countries such as Japan, Korea or China. This is far from true. The first models made in this technique were known in ancient Rome, Egypt and Greece. The material for them was clay and wood, and they were collected using ropes and pegs.
In our time, the value of these dolls is not only that they look like people, but also in their personality. And for this it is not necessary to do it yourself. It is enough to buy even a serial one, and thanks to the properties of the material from which it is made, change its appearance.
Japanese jointed doll
Although it was not the Japanese who invented and created the first toy on hinges, it still owes its revival to this country. The Japanese company Volks was the first to offer a model that the owner can create for himself, feeling like a Pygmalion, wallowing his Galatea. I also call them Super Dollfie, BJD for short.
Despite its diversity, BJD still has certain standards. They are proportions and sizes. Since only thanks to the large size, it is possible to create a model with full detail of all anatomical features.
The very first BJDs had a standard size of 60 centimeters. Then the product began to "grow up". Initially, up to 65, then up to 70 centimeters, and it seems that this is not the limit.
There are other categories of swivel toys, smaller ones - tiny and mini. Quite crumbs from 9 to 35 centimeters, somewhat reminiscent of standard dolls and therefore are created with all the attributes inherent in them.
The average size is 35-45 centimeters, this is a compromise between quality, since it is already possible to work with such a model, giving it individuality, and the price - it is cheaper. Well, everything above 45 centimeters is considered large.
Japanese BJDs are also distinguished from ordinary toys by the material. They are not made of plastic, but of polyurethane resins. This material is more pleasant to the touch and resembles porcelain. It is thanks to him that products can be modified, armed with sandpaper, needle files and other cutting tools.
The process of creating such a product is quite laborious and expensive. First, the sculptor-designer manually makes all the details. Then silicone blanks are created on them, in which parts of the body are cast. But such blanks do not last forever and can only be used to create a few prototypes, and then the process begins anew.
Naturally, taking into account the cost of material, equipment, rent, salary costs and other factors, the cost of one hinged product rolls over. The price of one basic model is 300-700 US dollars.
But this is the cost of a new model. And due to the fact that they are usually produced in a limited edition, then getting into the secondary market, its price rises even more. And this is a great incentive to learn how to make articulated dolls with your own hands, even if not for sale, but for yourself.
Articulated dolls made by hand
Getting started, get used to the idea in advance that your doll is unlikely to be a masterpiece. This is still a long way off. But the fact that it will be bright, individual, with its own name and character, with its own history of creation is for sure.
In the process of creation, each person turns into a creator, so it is not surprising that the resulting product turns out to be animated. And, quite possibly, it will become a talisman of good luck. Most importantly, do not forget to all the materials and tools, stock up on a good mood.
There are many technologies for creating such dolls. In order to decide which one to work in, first select the material from which it will be created.
Material for articulated dolls is divided into types:
- self-hardening, such as papier-mâché and Efaplast;
- baked - all types of plastic, polymer clay;
- molding - porcelain and polyurethane.
We have the first two. The injection method is already factory. The whole process of creation actually depends on what model will be - textile, papier-mâché, self-hardening clay or other material. For example, a textile articulated doll is sewn from a special milky or flesh-colored doll textile. And to create it, you will undoubtedly need a pattern.
There are many workshops on the Internet for sewing a textile articulated doll, and patterns in the right size are also given there.
If the product is made of solid material, then the pattern will be replaced by a diagram in which the model is drawn in profile and full face with all the maximum possible details. Naturally, the pattern and diagram of a textile and polyurethane articulated doll is drawn in full size.
Master class on creating a plastic articulated doll
Let our first doll be made of modeling plastic. This material is sold in a specialized store. You will also need foil and cling film. Using the scheme, we make the frame of the base-torso, arms, legs and head from film and foil.
This is done as follows:
- First, we sculpt the details of the desired size and contours from the foil. In order not to deviate from the scheme, constantly apply them to the drawing. This is necessary in order to maintain the desired dimensions and proportions. Then we wrap the parts with a film, and then we wrap the frame with a thin layer of plastic, 1-1.5 mm thick. Next, using the instructions, bake the plastic in the oven;
- After the details are baked, using our knowledge of anatomy, using sandpaper or a nail file, we begin to grind the details, giving them the necessary depressions and tubercles. Where, in your opinion, there is not enough plastic, we increase it. Just remember, after each build-up of plastic, the product must be sent to the oven for hardening. This is both creative and routine work;
- After the parts are processed, the torso, arms and legs are cut, and the frame is carefully removed from them. And in its place are flexible tubes or rubber cords. Arms and legs are cut in one place, where the joints are fastened in a person - the elbow and knee;
- In their place, hinges are molded in size. You also need to make blanks for the palms, fingers and feet. Everything is tried on the legs and arms, filed and rubbed until, in your opinion, it fits perfectly;
- Loops or metal hooks are inserted into the ankle area, as well as the joints of the forearm, palm and neck. The whole model is assembled on two rubber cords. They go through the whole body. One stretches from one ankle to the neck, and then to the second ankle. And the second cord stretches from one wrist over the shoulders to the other. Consider the degree of cord tension so that the product does not turn out to be loose or pinched. Also, feet, palms and head are attached to the elastic for their hooks;
- Next comes the polishing and finishing work. "Leather" is polished with a soft cloth to perfect smoothness, then primed and stained with acrylic. A small indentation is made on the head for the hair. Then the bulges on the body and face are covered with crushed pink pastel, everything is fixed with varnish;
- In continuation of the work on the design, you need to paint the face, attach the hair and stick or draw cilia. Any image can serve as a prototype for a face. It can be a famous actress or singer, or maybe just a face you like.
