Contrasting colors in eye makeup. How does it work in makeup? Techno style
The theory of color in the field of make-up is based on the so-called color wheel. It is a spectrum consisting of twelve colors. And in order to be able to correctly combine colors, you need to know what characteristics each of them has and which group it belongs to.
Coloring for makeup artists
Primary colors
Primary colors include: red, blue, yellow. They form a group of main base colors. This is explained by the fact that they cannot be created by mixing the remaining tones that are in the color wheel.
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Additional colors
These are colors that are created by combining two basic colors. For example, mixing yellow and red makes orange. If you mix red and blue, you get purple, and if you combine yellow and blue, you get green.
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Derivative colors
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achromatic colors
This group includes classic white and black, as well as all kinds of shades located between them. This color group also called neutral or colorless.
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Antagonist colors
Having thoroughly studied the arrangement of flowers in color spectrum, you can understand that the primary and secondary colors are located opposite each other. And the combination of these two colors makes up a pair of antagonist colors. Each of them harmoniously emphasizes the other and looks brighter and more contrasting.
This group is used in makeup not only to create a bright and catchy make-up. By using harmonious combination you can easily hide some cosmetic flaws. For example, using a green corrector that is superimposed on red can produce an achromatic white. Such manipulation is often used to eliminate redness on the skin of the face. Redness is neutralized and the complexion is evened out.
Coloring for makeup artists
Contrasting colors
These are two colors in the color spectrum, between which there are three intermediate colors. In make-up, these colors are used so that each of them emphasizes the depth of the other. This approach opens up new possibilities in the embodiment of the most daring, daring and outrageous ideas and allows you to create a bright and catchy make-up.
In addition, all colors that are located on the color wheel can be divided into cold and warm, as well as light and dark. Such a conditional division in the color spectrum helps to create a truly flawless make-up that will ideally fit the chosen image.
Hello Makeup Lovers. What do you think about makeup? Maybe from a set of brushes or from buying an eyeshadow palette? At the heart of makeup, as in the design of a website, flyer, storefront design, is the knowledge of color theory.
There are many descriptions of color theory in relation to different areas (web design, advertising, makeup, etc.), but personally I have not yet seen material anywhere in a form that is digestible and acceptable to me - so that I can understand, remember, and be able to tell, as they say, if they wake up at night.
I tend to believe that most people who are interested in makeup as a hobby or makeup artist profession are visuals (a visual is a person who perceives most of the information through vision). What is important for the visual? Picture. Therefore, in this article I will try to present the material in the form of logical blocks, visualizing it as much as possible, and I hope that this form will be useful, easily digestible and memorable.
So, color theory
The purpose of knowing the theory of color in makeup is to choose a suitable individual color scheme.
The color theory is based on the color wheel, which was proposed by the Swiss artist, theorist of the new art and teacher, Johannes Itten. Itten's color wheel is a spectrum divided into 12 colors.
Let's analyze in order what colors this color wheel consists of, and which of the "groups" each such color can be conventionally attributed to.
Primary colors
The three main pure colors that do not have any extraneous shades are called the main ones: yellow(top of color wheel) red(right Bottom part color wheel) and blue(lower left of the color wheel). Yellow, red and blue are the main, base or primary colors (hereinafter referred to as the primary colors), since these colors alone cannot be obtained by mixing other colors.
Additional colors
Complementary colors are those colors that are obtained by mixing two primary colors (yellow + red; red + blue; blue + yellow) in equal proportions. Complementary are the following three colors located on the color wheel:
Orange= yellow + red
violet= red + blue
green= blue + yellow
Derivative colors
Derivatives are those colors that are obtained by mixing one primary color (yellow, red or blue) with one of the additional colors(orange, purple or green). The derived colors are the following six colors of the color wheel:
yellow-green= yellow (primary) + green (secondary)
yellow-orange= yellow (primary) + orange (secondary)
red-orange= red (primary) + orange (secondary)
red-violet= red (primary) + purple (secondary)
blue-violet= blue (primary) + purple (secondary)
blue-green= blue (primary) + green (secondary)
Visually, all the colors of the color wheel listed above and how to obtain them are shown in the figure below.
All colors located on the color wheel can be divided into light and dark.
To light colors include the following colors: yellow (primary); orange, green (optional); red-orange, yellow-green, yellow-orange, blue-green (derivatives).
Whereas dark colors are: red, blue (basic); purple (optional); red-violet, blue-violet (derivatives).
In addition, all colors located on the color wheel are divided into warm and cold.
Please note that the color wheel consists of six warm and six cool colors.
warm are those colors in which the yellow component prevails over the blue: red, yellow (primary); orange (optional); red-orange, yellow-orange, red-violet (derivatives).
cold, respectively, are those colors in which the blue component prevails over the yellow: blue (main); purple, green (optional); yellow-green, blue-green, blue-violet (derivatives).
Achromatic and neutral colors
What about black and White color and - our favorite classic, you ask? So black and white, as well as all the areas of gray tones located between them, are achromatic, neutral or colorless flowers(Further - achromatic colors), where the brightest achromatic color is white, and the darkest is black.
Black and white colors are universal, and are combined with all other colors of the color wheel, with rare exceptions. An achromatic (gray) color or a neutral brown color that is not achromatic can be obtained by mixing the primary color with a secondary one, and the tone (saturation) of the resulting gray or Brown color depends on the proportions in which these colors are mixed.
How does it work in makeup?
Warm colors should be combined with dark achromatic tones (dark gray and black), and cold colors should be combined with light achromatic tones (light gray and white).
White color visually reduces the brightness of adjacent colors, making them darker. Black color, on the contrary, increases their brightness and makes them lighter. Also, black and white colors increase the contrast of adjacent colors. Some shades of neutral brown can be combined with a number of shades of achromatic gray, but beige, which is a shade of brown, is lost on a gray background.
Antagonist colors
As you have already noticed, primary and secondary colors are located opposite each other on the color wheel. And it is no coincidence. A pair of primary and secondary colors located opposite each other is called secondary colors or antagonist colors, because such a pair tends to emphasize each other. Antagonist colors are the following pairs:
Red Green
Yellow - purple
Blue - orange
Antagonist colors in a pair make each other seem brighter and more contrasting. You can appreciate it by looking at the illustration above. Red and green seem to glow, don't they?
How does it work in makeup?
Here are the simplest examples.
In order to hide redness on the skin, a green color corrector is used, which, when superimposed on red, gives an achromatic white and neutralizes redness.
To disguise dark circles under the eyes, use a peach corrector that neutralizes the blue undertone.
In order to refresh the yellowish tone of the face, use a lilac base, which lightens the skin somewhat and gives radiance.
Contrasting colors
These combinations are as catchy and intrusive as possible, in which one color emphasizes the depth of another. At the same time, move along the color circle to determine contrasting colors can be either clockwise or counterclockwise. Thus, for each color, you can choose 2 contrasting ones.
From the group of primary colors all colors are contrasting with respect to each other: yellow, red and blue. That is, these colors can be combined in any combination in a pair (red and blue; red and yellow; yellow and blue) or, if desired, in a trio.
From the group of complementary colors all colors are also contrasting with respect to each other: orange, green and purple. That is, these colors can be combined in any combination in a pair (orange and green; orange and purple; green and purple) or, if desired, in a trio.
From the group of derived colors you can make the following contrasting triples of colors (it is not necessary to use triples at all - two colors also look great together):
Red-orange - blue-violet - yellow-green
Yellow-orange - red-violet - blue-green
Yellow-green - red-orange - blue-violet
Blue-green - red-violet - yellow-orange
What is the difference between antagonist colors and contrasting colors, you ask? In fact, both of them form the most bright couples together, and their combinations give us room for imagination, creativity and self-expression in the selection of clothes and makeup.
How does it work in makeup?
For example, shadows purple hue can favorably emphasize the greenness of the iris of the eye. Fuchsia lipstick (red-violet) very advantageously emphasizes blue eyes (blue-green).
Such combinations are very well used, for example, in makeup for photo shoots, when you need to create a bright and flashy look.
neighboring colors
3 shades that are next to each other on the color wheel are also perfectly combined with each other. See for yourself:
Such shades work very well in mono-makeup, that is, when you need to do makeup in one color scheme.
Shades
You are probably wondering where on this color wheel are shades such as khaki, chocolate, cherry, plum, wine, pink, etc.? The fact is that these shades are obtained by mixing each of the 12 colors of the circle with neutral gray, while the degree of its “grayness” is responsible for the tone - see for yourself:
- if you mix red-violet with white, which is the lightest achromatic shade, we get pink;
- if you mix red-violet with dark gray from the achromatic line, we get cherry.
This is how turquoise, hazel and tangerine shades are formed.
Outcome
So, we got acquainted with the theory of color, which underlies makeup. Now we know that the color wheel consists of 12 colors, 3 of which are primary (pure), 3 secondary (obtained by mixing two primary colors) and 6 derivatives (obtained by mixing primary with complementary); that there is an eternity of achromatic colors (black, white and all shades of grey) and shades of brown obtained by mixing some primary colors with some complementary colors in varying proportions; that colors are divided into warm and cold, light and dark; there are contrasting colors and antagonist colors, which are the most striking and flashy combinations.
It turns out that this is possible. If you know a few simple rules make-up artists. They are borrowed, by the way, from artists and colorists. And used by representatives of these professions for hundreds of years, if not longer.
1. Explore the color wheel
The color wheel, or color wheel, is the foundation of the fundamentals in understanding the rules of color. For makeup, the theory of complementary colors is a real salvation, because harmony is formed precisely thanks to complementary colors. Pairs of colors that are opposite each other on the color wheel are called complementary. For example, for purple optional is . And vice versa, for orange - purple. These colors complement each other, hence the name. For now, let's remember this and try to put it into practice.
2. Shadows
The most big mistake- when women think that the selection of shadows for the color of the eyes is the choice of the same shade of shadows as the eyes. This is the wrong decision. Two blue shades do not add brightness and clarity to each other in any way, but, on the contrary, make each other dull.
The correct approach is to work on complementary colors. For example, for blue eyes, blue shadows will not add expressiveness at all, but bronze, copper and even red shades will help highlight the pupil, making it a bright sapphire or turquoise.
For brown eyes purple shades are the most advantageous, for green - brown, etc.
Note: an additional color can indicate not only which shade to choose, but also the nature of the color: cold or warm. If the complementary color to blue is red, then, in principle, any warm shade will be more advantageous than any cold one.
3. Blush
One of the top tips: - This is not a facial contouring product. That is, they do not "sculpt" the shape of the face, do not change it. Blush adds color to your face, enlivens it.
The second tip is the right choice of color. Try to attribute your skin to one of two types: 1) ivory, beige; or 2) bronze. For the first type, light, light shades, even chilly ones, should be used. And for the second type, darker and warmer colors are suitable. Look at the color wheel: warm shades are all those that are closer to red, and cool ones are closer to blue. Cold blush are those in which blue (blue) is present, at least minimally.
In summer, almost any skin becomes warmer (due to even very light), so summer blush should be warmer than winter.
And the third rule - do not use blush darker than your own shade of natural blush. You should pinch the skin on the cheekbones or lightly beat with the pads of your fingers, and you will see what a blush can be in saturation.
Makeup artists refer to universal product, that is, the rules for selecting colors according to the “warm-cold” principle do not apply to it. Because bronzer is a shade tanned skin, it can be present on any skin tone. And the bronzer suits both warm, olive, and fair skin. The only question is the intensity of the color of the bronzer.
4. Lipstick
First, use the rule that dark colors make the object visually smaller, and light ones, on the contrary, expand. Here the simplest example how it works: the circles are exactly the same size, but the black one looks smaller and the white one looks bigger.
Therefore, when thin lips it is better to choose a light lipstick, rather than a dramatic plum.
Another rule for choosing a lip color is to match the skin tone. The theory is the same as when choosing a blush: for cooler skin tones, you can choose cooler lipstick colors, and hot lipstick colors are suitable for darker complexions.
Consider also . It is good if the lipstick is from the same group of colors as the shadows. That is, if the shadows are cold, then the lipstick is cold. If the shadows are warm, then choose a warm lipstick. Harmonious image often the most winning solution.
But the fact is that using it to combine colors in the interior, wardrobe and make-up has some nuances. And since this article is about makeup techniques, as you already understood, we will consider the use of the color wheel in makeup. Or rather, consider small, but very useful tricks perfect make-up - color in make-up.
The eyes are the mirror of the human soul... And let's start with them. What color are your eyes? Surely you know that with the help of properly selected shadows you can emphasize and make brighter color eye. And how to make eyes brighter?
Let's start in order: we use "complementary colors" - these are those colors that contrast with each other. They are opposite each other on the color wheel. Why use them? - To highlight your eye color.
How it works? Let's take a closer look at the first example. Let's say you have blue eyes blue eyes), in the color wheel opposite of blue color is orange. Orange color in the shadows - it's not only peach and coral, but all shades of brown and beige.
It is worth noting that the first option (coral, peach shadows) suitable for girls With warm tone skin, and girls with a cold skin tone should stop at beige and brown shades.
And for owners of green eyes, shadows that contain red pigment (purple, lilac, burgundy, violet, etc.) are suitable. Please note that you should avoid cold pink shades. Since they will make your eyes swollen and teary, but at the same time blush on the cheeks of this color is quite appropriate.
Brown eyes accentuate shadows shades of blue, and those who are afraid to use blue shadows can be advised to use blue eyeliner or blue mascara.
But if you have black-brown eyes, it is better to use white color. And the lighting principle in the form of color shadows Ivory, golden beige, pastel yellow gold, etc.
And the last option is gray eyes. Happy owners gray eyes any shadow will do, and with the help of the appropriate colors of the shadows, you can get any “eye color”. If you want to "get" green eyes, use shadows with red pigment. To get brown eyes - shadows with blue pigment. Blue - warm neutral orange, beige, brown shades.
Please note, if not correct use colors can get the opposite effect. So green mascara or shadows will enhance the redness of the eye vessels on the cornea. And lipstick in purple shades will give yellowness to the teeth, etc.
The next principle of using the color wheel in makeup is based on the same complementary colors. But now let's take advantage of the fact that when they are mixed, we get a neutral grey colour, mixing on the skin, we get taupe shade. This property is useful for hiding skin imperfections. We cover all redness on the face with a green concealer, mixing it with the tone color. But we neutralize the bruises orange. yellow spots compensate purple, and purple circles under the eyes, respectively yellow etc.
Fashion shows often show us bright and exotic makeup, but outside of the catwalk it is still better to stick to more traditional approach and good color selection. Understanding the Basics color combinations will give you the opportunity to always be on top and create really thoughtful and stylish images. In order to create perfect makeup Here are a few key tips to keep in mind:
- the shade of lipstick according to the color type should match the shadows;
- foundation and blush should be carefully matched to the skin tone;
- eye color must be taken into account when choosing shadows.
Exploring the color wheel
Find and boldly use the color wheel, because harmony is achieved through correct application complementary colors. Complementary are colors that are located in color wheel against. The complementary color indicates not only the choice of shade, but also whether it should be from a warm or cold range. For example, if a warm red is opposite the blue color, this does not mean that they need to be combined in makeup, but that a warm shade will create a more winning combination.
Shadow color selection
The most common mistake is the choice of shadows according to the color of the eyes. This seemingly simplest way has long been criticized by the beauty community - the look becomes not expressive, but dull: the accent of the applied shadows muffles the color of the iris. The approach should be completely different - you need to work with complementary, contrasting colors. So, for example, blue and blue eyes are best emphasized warm shades copper.
Owners of brown eyes are the luckiest, but it is better to emphasize them with shades of purple. Green eyes demand brown flowers. When selecting shadows, you can also apply the rule " contrast temperature", that is, to a warm color you need to choose cold shade, for example, to light green - menthol. Another important rule in eye makeup - taking into account skin color when choosing the saturation of the shade of the shadows. Dark skin requires brightness, but on light dark shades look unnatural.
The right combination of colors
To create a fashionable two-tone makeup, you can recommend several win-win combinations.
- For gray and blue eyes you can use combinations of silver and gray-beige, pale pink and warm brown, gold and bronze colors. Makeup in a warm combination of champagne with a reddish tint will help to give the iris even more saturation;
- For brown eyes, choose a palette with beige, gray, black, graphite, purple and dusty pink flowers. For bright make-up suit a combination of olive and dark gray shades;
- Green eyes can be emphasized by a competent combination of champagne with a warm shade of brown or chocolate, as well as creamy with a rich brown-gray or ocher color.
When applying shadows light shade it is applied to the area of the inner part of the eye and under the eyebrow, and the moving eyelid is stained dark (starting from the middle). As you approach the outer corner of the eye, the shade should become more intense. Do not forget to pay attention to the careful shading of the shadows so that they smoothly transition from one color to another.
blush color selection
First and main advice when applying blush - remember that this product decorative cosmetics not suitable for sculpting the face, but is designed to revive its color. Right choice blush depends on the skin. For example, for skin light color- ivory or beige - light blush of cold shades (especially cold pinks) are suitable. For owners of bronze skin, warm shades of brown can be advised.
When applying blush, remember that for a competent combination of colors, they should not conflict with the shadows. Otherwise, you will end up with an 80s makeup effect. Use the color wheel to determine how your chosen eyeshadow color matches the blush shade. Warm brown shades shadows will look good with matte warm colors dusty rose type, blue shadows are emphasized gentle shade bronze, and green - peach or apricot.
Lipstick should be the same color "temperature" as your skin Lipstick and lip gloss colors
Lipstick, like other types of decorative cosmetics, should be selected based on skin tone. The selection rules correspond to the recommendations for the selection of blush: cold tones require the same “temperature” shades of lipstick, and warm ones are suitable for a swarthy face. For snow whites, you can recommend lipstick pink and beige colour, or a delicate peach shade. For those with beige skin suit light caramel, apricot, coral.
Olive skin works well with warm tones of red, cherry, and berry. When choosing lipstick, be sure to consider the makeup that you put on your eyes. Ideally, lipstick should be from the same group of colors from which the shadows are taken. Cold shadows are combined with "low temperature" lipsticks and vice versa. Only in this case, your image will turn out to be harmonious and seasoned in a stylish color scheme.
