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Weave a rose brooch from beads. Beaded brooches - handmade beauty

I decided to transfer my information on the “Irish Rose” pendant and canvas embroidery here. Maybe it will be useful to someone.

This publication is not exactly a master class. This is most likely a list of useful tips when creating my brooch.
So, I’ll start with the diagram and then the questions that were asked to me personally and my answers to them will follow.

Scheme:

1 question:
I can’t figure out how to attach a flower embroidered on canvas to felt so that the edges don’t fray?
1. Answer:
I coated the edges with transparent glue. In general, the whole rose was on the back, then I cut it out, then I went around the edges again, where I saw what was needed. Then I glued it, but not to the felt, it’s still a bit thick (I’ve been looking for ways and materials lately to make everything thinner), to the stiffy stuff beading foundation. After that, I went through the edging with beads (it hides the remains of the outline), cut out and then cut out the leather and the closing row of beads. I did this

2. Question:
I was thinking: what if I didn’t coat the canvas with glue, but glued a thin dublerin? The canvas should not crumble. Haven't you tried that?
2. Answer:
I don’t know about dublerin, I tried something else (I don’t remember the name), but there was a problem, it didn’t dry like glue, it didn’t stiffen and the needle always came out sticky, it was impossible to sew. That's the only reason I settled on glue. (E-6000 glue) But try, look... Perhaps your method will be better (with doublerin, if you don’t need to weld it to the canvas) and then please, if it’s not difficult for you, share with us
2a.Answer:
I tried it, I report: doublerin is not an option! Glue will be more reliable.

3. Question:
I don’t know what a “brooch converter” looks like. Can you show me?
3. Answer:
This is what the horizontal one looks like:

There are also vertical

This thing can be worn on any brooch. A pin needle is inserted into the tube and fastened. And then you can put a chain through the loop, a neck ring (like in my photo), in general, whatever your heart desires. I like that I bought one and you want it with one brooch, but you want it with another.

Vertical, with example:

4.Question:
At what distance from the embroidery should I cut? You wrote about the covering, which hides the edges of the canvas. Do we also sew this row in checkers or how do we trim the cabochon?
4. Answer:
1) The first time I cut off about a millimeter, it was even a bit much. Then I cut off almost right at the bead itself (but this is only provided that the glue holds everything on the back side! It feels like you are cutting thick paper). I stopped at about that distance! Scary! It seems like “what if everything falls apart now, and I’ve been embroidering so much!”
But that’s how I cut it - at a distance of 1 bead from the embroidery. Yes, it’s close and labor-intensive, but there are no gaps. (When they ask me how I determine this distance, I answer “The distance of tangible practice,” you will feel this already from the second rose, if suddenly I explained something wrong. When I have already glued the canvas to the felt , then I cut the felt the same way as on the lining of the cabochon.
2) I don’t follow the edging of the rose according to the cells, there are almost none there anymore, everything is cut off and it even grabs the felt. I'm just making a silhouette that will make it easier to make a finishing edge without sharp corners.

5. Question:
Question about leaves for a rose. How do you make them so voluminous? Some kind of filler? Please share your secret! And also, do you embroider by casting a whole arc of beads at once (between the veins of the leaf)?
5.Answer:
This was the first time I made leaves like this and I also encountered the fact that I was not sure how to do it and what would come of it. I leafed through the book about church sewing again (no, not the whole book, but individual pages with pictures). It says about flooring. Firstly, it should be across the beadwork. Two types of flooring - felt (I used it in a pendant with an iris) and I used threads for knitting (like on the leaves of a rose). I can’t say what size, but it’s thicker than usual for sewing, thicker than floss, probably these are suitable for markame. I made them like tubercles, there are no threads in the middle of the leaf (I don’t explain it well, there is a picture in the book). That is, I made it like the edging of a leaf and then filled it in. The middle, like the ridge-spine of a leaf, is beads, along the edges of this spine there are tubercles made of macrame (vertically), across the top there are beads (horizontally)
Since I didn’t know whether it was possible to collect a lot of beads on such a tubercle on one needle (this is related to the question of casting an arc) or whether it was possible to sew as with regular embroidery, I made the leaves small. There is no crayfish step, everything holds tightly and you can’t get to the flooring, it doesn’t stick out. It seems there were up to 7 beads in the arc. But, now I’m embroidering something else and I know that you can take 2,3, 4 or whatever you’re used to and then at a crawling pace or whatever it’s called. Well, come back, not the entire arc at once. And at the same time it lays down evenly.

Yes! I forgot the most important thing! I don’t remember if I said it or not, but the leaves are NOT embroidered on canvas! They are already embroidered on felt covered with linen threads.

So, MK for flooring with felt here - www.livemaster.ru/topic/219687-kole-lovtsy-... But I have felt on an adhesive backing, if you want the tubercle to be more convex, then I glue a small base under the flooring, then more and more (like in a brooch with an iris) until I almost reach the edge. There are 4 felt floorings.
But the book is Ubrus_3, there are photographs, if I wrote something wrong in the explanation, then you can understand from the photo. The book lists all types of flooring. I downloaded it on BI about two years ago. Now I don’t know where to look for her. It definitely won't hurt. It's the third book

6.Question:
Hello! I probably won’t be the first and won’t be the last to ask you about how to process the canvas after embroidering a pattern on it?
I intended to glue the crystal to the felt for a moment and sew it on like a regular embroidery next to two, but the question is: won’t the glue come out through the canvas and beads onto the face?
6. Answer:
I was also afraid that the glue would seep through. But it turned out that it was so viscous and thick that it didn’t have time, and there wasn’t much of it. It only remains on the reverse side. I can even say more. One rose, which was unsuccessful, was already covered with leather and then it happened that it was torn. I started remaking and realized that beads can be easily cut and reused! But I repeat that I used E-6000 glue. I can't say anything about others. It is transparent, hardens almost instantly, and is designed specifically for beaded jewelry.

7.Question:
I’m basically familiar with canvas embroidery, but I just have a couple of questions. As far as I understand, you embroider with a 15-pointer. I have selected size 10 beads. Wouldn't it be too rude?
7. Answer:
The 10th bead, I think, will suit the Irish Rose, since the rose itself is small, but it cannot be a brooch, it will be a little large, but I think it will be nice in the form of a pendant. I’ve just never embroidered 10, only 11 and 15. I seem to have 10 in my paintings, but I’m not sure. But (!) If you embroider with a 10-point stitch, then the size of the canvas should of course be different. In the comments I indicated No. 18, but you will need to try either 14 or 16. You need to see where the beads will fit better. My student embroidered, it seems, 11 on 14 count and it fit well, she didn’t buy 16. But I’m not sure, try it!

8. Question:
Yes, here’s one technical question: is there some trick in the layout of the beads so that the volume of the flower is visually visible? I tried it, but it didn’t work. Your flower looks voluminous.
8. Answer:
This is of course the color ratio first of all! And here are some tips that haven’t really sunk into my head, but I’ll try to say. Two dark colors on the shadow are very important! Don't be afraid that the dark one will be very dark - it doesn't matter! I have it metallic. The second one should be a little dark - transparent or luster (I don’t know how in Russian, but there are color classifications - luster, crystal matte, transparent, metallic, etc.) but a similar color. That is, two dark ones are close in color (the second is lighter, but a little), but different in shine, I would say so.
(Now I might get confused in the classification. I’ll definitely clarify the names)
Next come the colors of roses, and the main thing here is not to take transparent! He will definitely get lost!
For this I use the colors silver lined and opaque! (It is advisable to take for the first work (!) a color much (!) lighter than the colors of the shadow) It should be radically different!
But in the light (the lightest) roses should be taken either matte or transparent! It's either white or something close to it.

And also, I saved and printed out diagrams of different roses and looked at the shadow and light. I attached different beads to the pattern.
It is the correctly selected colors and their classification that will give the effect of volume!

9.Question:
Do you embroider the entire row at once or in fragments until you embroider one color? I tried this and that, didn’t notice any difference. How will be correct?
9. Answer:
I embroider a row at once, so it’s more even. Let me explain why
Since my creativity began with embroidery of pictures (cross stitch, satin stitch, beads and mixed technique), I paid great attention to such a technical issue as the “ideal wrong side”. If you have cross-stitched, you will understand me. When on the wrong side all the threads go vertically (or horizontally, as you are used to, I like verticals, sorry), then there are no distortions. The beads will lie more evenly. And if the thread jumps from row to row in a chaotic manner, “chasing” only the nearest color, then somewhere sooner or later it will be a little inaccurate and the canvas may stretch. (Steaming soaked canvas with beads is a thankless task, the work will suffer. If such a feint works with a painting, since the beads are larger, then it is better not to do this with a brooch) This is a whole science and a whole mathematical calculation when, when embroidering with a cross, you need to make the perfect reverse side.
Sometimes it seems that there is no difference. But at competitions when paintings are exhibited, you could simply faint from how the quality affects the appearance (insert a mouse fainting here), how the light falls on the beads, and so on. The quality of work consists of such seemingly insignificant details at first glance. I am for quality, starting from the smallest details.
10. Question:
Do you embroider on a hoop?/ How do you achieve such even flat embroidery, can you share the secret?
10. Answer:
I haven't embroidered on a hoop for a long time. I embroider on impregnated canvas. It is tougher + add glue and here you have a smooth, woody base. The same thing with felt (or beading foundation), I take only (!) soaked one. When they saw my works at the exhibition, the first thing they asked was “How did you achieve such even embroidery??? They are very even in plane!” Yes it is. The reverse side is not crumpled, the skin lies flat and taut as if on a drum. But this is not due to the cardboard layer! And simply because all the embroidery was originally embroidered on an impregnated base. Whether it's canvas or felt.

11. Question:
Yes, you also wrote about some other book at the beginning under number 3, but who is the author?

12. Question:
I got a charming flower in red tones. I want to ask, it’s a very unpleasant moment, but I’m an honest person and if you say no, then so be it. I would like to sell a rose according to your scheme, is this possible or not?
12. Answer:
I'm very glad it worked out for you!

Since they took from me a pattern that I personally drew, based on the pillow embroidery pattern (as the inspiration), the question that the pattern is NOT mine disappears. The diagram is mine, personal, and I consider it unacceptable to use it for printing in magazines!- this answer does not apply to Marianne, the author of the question.

There are probably times when there is a replication and you need to ask the author for permission, I don’t know, but I don’t fall into any of the categories.
This is your rose, you decide what to do with it

13. Question:
Information about the brooch converter is simply priceless!!! Tell me where can I buy them? How are they written in English?
13. Answer:
brooch pin converter. I buy in a store or online (I gave a link to a store in the USA). It is only one size so far, so you need to select it for a specific pin so that it does not dangle. I think they will be releasing different ones soon.
13 Question:
This store does not work with Russia, with Etsy delivery is expensive, you need to team up with someone. Thank you very much, it turns out we had it at greenbird, I also found it on etsy based on your translation, but... it’s expensive. But it's a really great idea!!!
13a Answer:
Ahh, I got it. Maybe some kind of established system, through someone... I didn’t think about it. There was once a link here and people formed groups and ordered goods there.
Then, I think, it’s easier to write greenbird a question about whether they plan to replenish products with this article. I understand that he was. Maybe they are just waiting for demand

14. Question:
How to strengthen and impregnate canvas or felt?
14.Answer:
I don’t know what solution they impregnate canvas and felt in factories. Canvas and felt impregnated with a solution for rigidity are commercially available.

15. Question:
Now I also embroider on canvas, but my beads lie diagonally. You have it right. Is this some other technique, or am I doing something wrong?
15. Answer:
I embroider diagonally - from left to right (top to bottom), and the next row is the opposite - from right to left (from bottom to top)
I took a closer look and here they really are diagonal. In this embroidery, the flower itself is not very unfolded, but in another embroidery, the flower for the brooch is just unfolded... (Brooch “Constance”)

16. And one more modest piece of advice from me:
If you start choosing a pattern to embroider a rose, a flower (whatever your heart desires), then count the number of beads horizontally (widthwise), preferably up to about 40. If there are already 50-60, then this is a large pendant . This design will not work on a brooch and will have to be reworked. 35-40 is the ideal number for a brooch! This is in my opinion (judging from my experience)

Pattern of the brooch “Constance”
Special thanks to Lenochka Bergman.

A beaded brooch is an original and very beautiful accessory that invariably emphasizes the charm and grace of its owner. Today we will tell you how to weave such decorations. We have collected for you the best ideas for inspiration and step-by-step master classes that even novice masters can handle.

In this article you will find all the necessary information on how to make a beaded brooch with your own hands, as well as some valuable tips and interesting patterns. Some (more complex) accessories come with weaving patterns, while others come with an accessible description. In our selections you will find brooches embroidered on felt, as well as wicker jewelry. Flowers, birds, leaves, dragonflies and other most popular bead crafts - you can make all this and much more yourself.

Before starting work

If you have never worked with beads before or your familiarity with weaving techniques is superficial, you should pay attention to beadwork master classes for beginners. Brooches are quite simple accessories, but each of them has its own nuances. For beginners, it is best to take a closer look not at wicker jewelry, but at those embroidered with beads on felt.

The simplest brooches are petals, embroidered flowers, birds and other decorations that do not require small details. So, for example, to make a beaded brooch in the shape of a woven flower bud, you will need to weave several petals separately and then carefully fasten them together - this is not too easy. For an embroidered flower, all you need to do is draw an image and attach beads to it.

In a word, it is better for beginners not to take on bulky brooches. However, you should not take this as a rule - it is quite possible that you will be able to do something complex with your own hands the first time.

Which beads to choose?

The choice of beads for a homemade brooch depends on its style. In some cases, you will need not only standard round beads, but also several other types of beads.

The following usually works:

small beads with a large hole for a needle;
standard glossy or matte beads;
beads in the form of grains of rice;
bugles;
small and medium size beads;
half beads;
rhinestones;
ornamental stones.

Other accessories for creating a brooch:

felt;
fabric base (for example, denim or wool);
threads (preferably silk);
fishing line;
needles of various sizes;
glue gun;
tweezers.

You won't need all of these materials, but usually many of them go into the work at the same time.

Master class: brooch in the form of an owl

This step-by-step instruction will appeal to beginners, because you can make such a brooch with your own hands in literally half an hour, and to “assemble” it you will need the simplest materials. The master class should not be neglected by those who have been working with beads for a long time, because owls are very popular today. This means that you will get a fashionable exclusive brooch that even the most advanced fashionistas will envy.

What do we need?

large beads of several colors;
beads in the form of grains of rice;
two large rhinestones of the same size;
thin fabric base;
cardboard;
thick leather base (can be replaced with thick material);
thread or fishing line;
Super glue.

How to do it?

First of all, we design the owl's eyes. To do this, we string small beads onto a fishing line or thread and close it into a circle slightly larger than a rhinestone. Connect the circle and place a rhinestone pupil in the center. Glue it. We fix the eyes on a fabric base using thread or glue.

We sew a beak made of oblong dark beads and a bang made of light beads to the base. The owl's head is almost ready, and this is already half of the brooch.

Draw the owl's body and add a few more elongated beads to the head. We sew another row of beads around the eyes - we use the same small beads.

We lay out beads in a continuous row along the contour of the body. You can string beads onto a fishing line and then sew them to the base of the brooch. We do the same with the owl’s body: we collect it on a fishing line and glue or sew one bead at a time.

We cut off the excess fabric and glue the future brooch to a small oval piece of cardboard.

Then we make two holes in the leather base for a pin, insert it and glue the structure to the workpiece.

We make the legs and wings using small oblong beads, add another row to the body to hide the excess fabric. Ready!

Try different color combinations. Make your owls black and white, brown, or even very bright. In any case, your homemade beaded brooch will turn out very cute, touching and original. This is a great gift and a wonderful everyday accessory for girls and women of any age.

Master class: bird brooch

A very beautiful brooch on felt that any woman will like. In this step-by-step instructions you will find a pattern for weaving and embroidering a bullfinch, but your bird can be anything - it depends on the chosen pattern and colors.

What do we need?

a piece of felt;
sew-on rhinestones;
standard size beads (two or more colors);
bead needle;
thread or fishing line;
pin or ready-made accessories for a brooch.

Please note that felt can easily be replaced with a piece of woolen fabric or any other material (glued with cardboard and a piece of leather - for reliability).

Before you start, you need to choose a stencil of any bird and print it. If it is not possible to do this (or you are good at drawing), then copy the image on paper. The main thing is that you have a ready-made template of the size you want the brooch to be. We advise you to pay attention to our selection of bird stencils.

How to do it?

Place the bird figurine on the felt and trace it. Cut it out.

We cover the wing with large rhinestones. Glue or sew them.

We cover the wing with beads. To do this, fasten the thread from the wrong side, string two beads and make a seam. You can sew on one at a time if your rhinestones have a complex shape.

We make the trim along the contour of the future brooch. It’s better to do this in several passes and don’t be lazy about changing the thread and tying knots - this way the rows will lie more evenly.

Add a second, third and other colors to create the bird's breast and neck.

Fill all the small details with beads (you can also fix them with glue), and then make another additional row along the entire contour.

The brooch is almost ready. All we have to do is cut out another piece of felt using the stencil, connect it with a pin, and then glue it with the embroidered part, placing the stencil itself between them.

This beaded brooch can decorate not only the lapel of a jacket, but also a fabric handbag. By the way, it is believed that birds bring good luck, so your homemade brooch is not only a beautiful accessory, but also a kind of talisman.

Master class: brooch in the shape of a clover

A beaded brooch in the shape of a clover leaf is your talisman of good luck. This accessory looks great on a scarf, jacket, handbag and even on a hat. Cute, neat, original - this brooch will be a great addition to your look.

What do we need?

green felt;
green satin fabric;
small beads with a small hole;
brown rhinestone;
green beads;
green bugles;
flat wide beads;
a piece of leather;
pin or ready-made accessories for a brooch;
threads;
Super glue.

How to do it?

First you need to draw a quatrefoil on paper: yourself or using a stencil. Transfer the image to felt.

We string small brown beads onto a thread and close the ring. It is better to do it in two rows.

We sew fabric to one half of the clover. We also cut it out in advance using a stencil. To make a beautiful fold, use thread and beads. For convenience, it is better to stretch the felt over something.

We place a rhinestone in one of the corners, and on top the ring that we made in the second step. We process the outline with green beads. We fill the space with beads and seed beads of various sizes in random order. Parts can be sewn or glued.

Gradually fill all the free space with decor.

Release the felt from the clamp and cut off the excess.

Glue a pin or hardware and a piece of leather to make a strong base. The brooch is ready!

You can give such a homemade beaded brooch as a gift or simply always carry it with you for good luck. This is a very beautiful accessory that will make you stand out and be remembered by others.

Bonus: video lesson

In this master class you will learn how to make a sponge brooch - another popular accessory today. In a similar way, you can make a brooch with any other image.

Choose any of the presented master classes and be sure to try making a beaded brooch with your own hands. It's quick and easy, and as a result you will get a very beautiful accessory that you will wear for many years. In addition, your brooch will be unique: even if you choose a popular silhouette, the colors and sizes of the jewelry will be exclusive. Create and wear with pleasure!

Watch the master class and you will learn how to weave a composition with roses from the “Pink Queen” beads.

Order a set of composition materials at.

Composition with roses Pink Queen

To create one rose we will need:

or beads of primary color 70 grams;
3 shades of beads - 10 grams each;
4 shades of cuttings for greens - 30 and 3*20 grams;
for petals 0.4 mm;
wire for green leaves 0.4 mm;
5 mm wire for rose stem;
threads for assembly;
floss;
green floral ribbon;
glue;
narrow nose pliers or round nose pliers;
wire cutters;
ruler;
spinner for setting beads.

If you want to purchase a set of beads for this master class, write to us by email: zakaz@site and we will select beads of any color according to your desire.

Greenery

Big leaf

CO (central axis) - 6 cabins. KN (round bottom), OV (sharp top). There are 8 arcs in total in the sheet. After the 6th arc, add 1 bead per CO. Look very carefully at how the sheet ends at the bottom: 2-3 turns and that’s it - then the wire goes smoothly.

We MUST stitch the sheet with monofilament so that the arcs do not move apart.

For one rose we need 2 large leaves. For convenience, the photo was taken on checkered paper: weave it based on the size in centimeters (not the number of beads).

Middle leaves

CO - 6 cuttings, 7 arcs in total. After the 5th arc, we add one cutting point to the CO. KN, OV. Only 4-5 leaves (number of branches as desired). They must also be stitched with monofilament.

small leaves

CO - 5 cuttings, 7 arcs in total, after the 5th arc we add 1 cutting per CO. KN, OV. It is not necessary to flash them (only if the arcs move apart a lot). There are only 8-10 leaves - there should be 2 times more of them than average leaves.

Leaves in three sizes for comparison.

Stitching a sheet with monofilament

We thread the monofilament through the needle and tie a double knot. If the antennae turn out to be long, then shorten them.

We start stitching the sheet from the edge: we thread the needle through the first row and insert it BETWEEN the threads - into the loop where the knot is.

Tighten the loop well so that the knot is on the wrong side of the sheet.

Do not tighten the rows of monofilament too much - it will break, and the sheet may become deformed. We go through the last row with monofilament twice (for reliability).

We secure the thread at the end: we thread the needle, draw the thread AROUND the stitching, and bring the needle back into the loop formed.

And we repeat this (again for reliability).

We cut the thread close to the cutting so that there are no large tendrils. This is what the firmware looks like on the reverse side, but on the front side it is completely invisible.

Sepal

We collect 20 beads, after one we go back.

Important! We make the “tail” long, thus strengthening the axis. We twist the loop at the bottom, as for regular weaving, leaving a little free space on the axis (the beads should not fit tightly).

We weave the first arc through five beads, KN (round bottom), OB (sharp top).

We weave the second arc through 3 beads. KN, OV.

We weave the third arc through 3 beads, OB, KN. At the bottom we make 2-3 turns, then we cut the loop and lay the wire evenly.

One rose needs 5 sepals.

Assembling twigs

We take the floss threads and divide them into 3 parts, that is, 2 threads each.

Each of my leaves has three 0.4 mm wires, so they hold up well. It does not need additional strengthening. Be sure to check your leaves: whether they stand on their own; if necessary, reinforce with additional wire.

We begin to wrap the thread, leaving the tail at the bottom (it will close later). We lay all the wires parallel to each other, there should be no twists.

We lay the thread flat all the time, without twists. Now this is not important, but when we collect the stem of 6 threads, it will be very important. We tighten the thread very tightly, it should bring all the wires together (there should be no tubercles).

We fasten the thread from below, simply passing it between the wires.

We wrap a large sheet 2 cm and cut it off.

You get two finished sheets; you don’t need to do anything else with them.

Pay attention to how your hands should be positioned when winding: the thread is taut all the time, this is the only way it will lie flat.

We also wrap the middle sheets by 2 cm.

We wrap small leaves by 1 cm, but do not cut off the excess thread from the second leaf; we will continue to collect the twig with it. The branch has three leaves: a medium leaf in the middle, small ones on the sides.

We put all three sheets together, make several twists (very tight!!!), then wrap them by 1.5 - 2 cm. Here the middle sheet is in the middle, the small ones are on the sides. We make 4 - 5 such branches (depending on how many leaves you wove).

Petals

Central petals

One rose needs 2 of these petals.. Central axis (CO) - 9 cuttings (18 mm), 5 arcs. KV (round top), KN (round bottom). We watch the round top very carefully: if necessary, press down the wire with a fingernail - where it wraps around the axis at the top. We weave from the main color of the cutting, the edging in the last row is with the darkest beads. We stitch with monofilament (on a delicate satin hem the wire will look very rough). We can’t do without firmware; we’ll bend it.

The axis at the top has gone sideways; on larger petals this will be even more noticeable. The cutting is quite large and it is difficult to maintain round, even rows. The most important thing is to ensure that the shape of the petal is maintained.

Second type of petals

Total you need 3 of them. We cut the 0.4 mm wire: two pieces of 15 cm each. We attach the working wire with beads to them. We do not cut the working wire from the coil yet.

We put 9 cuttings (2 cm) on the axle, and at the top of the axle we move it apart - approximately 60 degrees.

Let's start weaving. We reach the first axis and wrap around it. Here you can see that the working wire sticks out slightly upward.

Immediately press it down with your fingernail: then the petal will be round at the top, without steps.

We leave one bead between the axes, wrap it around the second axle, and go down as usual.

We weave four rows in the same way. Starting from the fifth row, at the top we CHANGE the weaving to purl. To do this, we insert the working wire from below, under the axle. We bend the axes themselves a little upward.

As soon as we started weaving with beads (that is, the last three rows), we begin to weave the petal below with a boat. To do this, we tighten it a little at the bottom: that is, we take 1 less bead than if we weaved evenly. We weave with the lightest beads.

In this way we bend the axes upward when weaving, and at the bottom we tighten them with a boat.

This is what the finished petal looks like. Middle row with beads: at the edges - the lightest beads, in the center - darker. The top row is the same dark beads.

This is the petal on the outside. The axes at the top must be cut off and the petal sewn in the middle.

This is a side view. It can be seen that it is convex at the bottom.

This is a close-up view: knit 4 rows, purl 4 rows, the colors are clearly visible.

We shape the petals: bend the edge down and make a protrusion in the center.

We give the shape below. We place our hands on BOTH sides in this way: at the top - inward, at the bottom - outward. The petal has a distinct guitar shape. At the top you need to press your thumbs tightly inward, making a “waist”, but do not press the rows against each other. And at the bottom you need to stretch with your index fingers.

The hands should stand like this: the thumbs press down on top, and the index fingers form a rounded bottom on the back side.

As a result, we should get this petal shape.

Third row petals

They weave similarly to the petals of the second row. You need to weave 4 of them. For two 0.4 mm wires 20 cm long, we collect 10 cuts.

We weave 5 rows, KV (round top), KN (round bottom).

Starting from the 6th row from the top, change the front weave to the purl one. From the 7th row, add beads to the edge of the petal. The first row is only the lightest beads. Starting from the 7th row, we begin to weave the petal at the bottom with a “boat”.

The next row with beads: the edge - light beads, in the middle - a little darker, then - light again. Don't forget to lift the axles up while weaving.

The third row is completely made at the top with slightly darker beads.

Last top row: edge - beads a little darker, then darker, then again a little darker. There are 10 rows in the petal.

The petal is completely woven. This is the inner concave side of the petal. At the bottom, all rows are purl. Above: 5 rows - purl weaving, 5 rows - front weaving.

This is how the petal looks from the side, with a pronounced “boat” at the bottom.

This is the outer convex side. We cut off the axle at the top and stitch the petal in the middle with monofilament.

We give the petal the shape of a guitar, as with the previous petals .

The last type of petals

For one rose you need to make 5 of them. We make this design from 3 pieces of 20 cm each. The wires should be located at an angle of 90 degrees to each other.

We put 1 bead on each of the three axes and begin to weave rows. Everything is round everywhere, that is, KV, KN.

We make 8 complete rows. It's okay if the axes move a little to the side (as long as the petal is round).

We weave the 9th row with a cutting. Only on the TOP axis do we change the front weaving to the purl one.

We begin to weave with beads (you need to leave a piece of working wire at least 50 cm). We weave the first row only with the lightest beads. One felling short of the side axis, we make a hitch. I immediately lift the top axle up (it does not lie flat like the side axles). At the bottom I pull the wire tightly, so the petal begins to curve slightly into a “boat”.

We go back, but add slightly darker beads to the middle. And we make a clue again.

We go back only with slightly darker beads and reach the bottom. We finish the arc.

We weave a full arc, adding the darkest beads to the middle.

We make another full arc, with the darkest beads at the top.

The petal is ready, cut off all the wires. This is the outer CONVEX side. We do not stitch the petal.

This is the inner concave side. We wrap the petal up at the top.

This is a side view.

Shape the petal. Bend the petal with your finger at the top in waves. Near the lateral axes we bend it slightly inward.

Our petal is ready!

Assembling a rose

We weave the middle: 3 loops of 15 beads each (from the darkest edging beads).

We roll the central petals into a tube: do this carefully, as the cutting can easily burst.

We take a wire with a diameter of 5 mm, wrap it with 10 cm of tape (this is not necessary - just so that the petals do not slip during assembly). The length of the wire depends on the height of the future vase.

We insert one central petal into the other.

We drip glue onto the end of the wire and “plant” our middle.

We put the central petals on the wire, lower them down so that they cover 2 cm of the stem wire (this is necessary for the rose to keep its shape).

The petals should be slightly higher than the middle.

We wrap the petals at the bottom to the stem with threads to match the leaves.

We coat the bottom and the joints of the petals well to the middle with glue. Don't be afraid to use a lot of glue, as it will be covered in this place by the petals of the next row. The main thing at this stage is that the rose does not fall apart.

We wrap the petals of the second row - 3 pieces. Nuances during assembly: at the bottom, the petals on one side overlap each other. The petals are located at the same angle to the stem.

At the top, the petals of the second row should be at the same level as the center petals. If the rose is assembled correctly, then the two central petals and the next three are at the same level.

Coat it well with glue: below - near the stem and at the junctions of the petals.

This is the kind of preparation we should get. Checking how the rose looks from above, whether the petals are positioned correctly .

When we are sure that everything is assembled correctly at the top, we tighten the petals with thread so that they do not fall apart while the glue dries.

After this, I hang the rose upside down and wait for each row of petals to dry completely. Only after this do I start gluing the next row - this ensures that the previous row of petals does not move while I apply the next row.

We begin to glue the next row of petals. Distribute 4 petals evenly, glue along the seams and near the stem.

Place the petals “overlapping”: one side to the other and in a checkerboard pattern relative to the previous rows.

This is how it should turn out: the rose is shaped like a glass.

The previous petals have dried, you can glue the next row.

Apply just a little fresh glue to the protruding part of the petals.

We wrap the last row of petals: make sure that they are evenly spaced and “overlapping” on one side.

Apply glue to the joints and underneath (not too much so that it dries and is not noticeable later). We begin to wrap the sepals.

We lay the sepals with the wrong side down, placing them ALONG THE AXES of the large petals - directly on fresh glue.

Distribute the sepals evenly over the petals.

Carefully coat the base of the bud and 2 cm of the rose trunk with glue.

We cut off 20 cm of wire, string a green strip of the main color onto it and wrap it around the sepals.

We make 5 turns around the trunk with the cutting - this will be the peduncle. Fasten the wire well.

Our bud is ready. We wait until the flower dries, then we will wrap the leaves.

This is what the finished rose should look like.

We continue to collect our flower.

Wrap the stem with floral tape (this is optional). I do this for two reasons:

firstly, this way the threads fit better, they do not slide along the wire;
secondly, with the help of tape I even out the thickness of the stem: where there are no wires from the petals, the stem becomes too thin, and I make 3-4 layers with tape.

We wrap the stem 5-7 cm, screw on one large leaf.

We wrap another 1-2 cm, screw the second large sheet, but on the other side (so that the sheets look at each other).

After 2 cm we screw the branches in a checkerboard pattern. Focus on the height of your vase: if necessary, you can increase or decrease the distance between the branches. Branches should be located on all sides of the stem.

We continue to wrap the stem down until the very end. To secure the thread, I coat the tip of the wire with acrylic glue.

Our rose is ready !!!

Bend the sepals down and straighten the leaves.

Congratulations! You are well done!

See you soon.

Bead embroidery is a pleasant and fashionable hobby for beautiful girls and women. A variety of beads of different colors and their amazing combination with felt and canvas allow you to create stylish jewelry with your own hands. Gifts decorated with beads acquire luxury and nobility. This master class is presented with weaving patterns.

Rose brooch made of beads with step-by-step photos

Prepare the necessary materials:

- beads;
- canvas;
- needle and thread;
- fishing line;
- felt 0.2 cm thick;
- cardboard;
- ruler;
- padding polyester;
- glue gun;
- pin.

First, decide on the color of your leaves and select beads taking into account your wishes. Cut out 7x7 cm squares from canvas, padding polyester, or cardboard measuring 8x8 cm. Take a bouquet from a towel or fabric as a sample of your bead embroidery.

Take pink beads, thin fishing line, and a needle, and start embroidering a rose on the canvas according to the pattern. You can add your imagination to your work.

Now embroider the stems and leaves so that you can see where it is better to place the 3 roses. Decorate the contours of 2 roses with beads. Give the leaves volume by collecting 7-8 beads on a fishing line, thread them 2 times into the canvas to secure it tightly.

It is necessary to cut the cardboard in the shape of a flower, carefully maintaining the size of 8x8 cm. Make 2 squares of the same size from felt. Cut the canvas into an oval shape 6.8x5.8 cm.

Embroider the remaining parts of the flowers and leaves. Choose the embroidery method that is convenient for you, left to right or right to left. It is important to carefully pull the line so as not to spoil the canvas and straighten the beads. For convenience, each new fishing line can be secured with beads on the reverse side, and upon completion of work, remove them and tie knots and hide them under the stitches of the fishing line, helping with a needle.

We move on to the pleasant final stage - this is sewing the canvas to the felt with a beautiful stitch, gluing 2 felt flowers to each other with a glue gun, placing a padding polyester between them to soften the brooch. Attach a pin to the back side, and for use by a child, glue a bobby pin, wrapping it with a satin ribbon.

An amazingly beautiful decoration for elegant ladies is ready. To be original in clothes and jewelry, to have your own unique taste is the dignity of the inner and outer beauty of the beautiful half of our humanity. Surprise and give moments of happiness to your loved ones and friends by making cute beaded gifts for them with your own efforts.

We will need:

Beads: brown and beige rainbow, size 12; gold, dark green and green light;
Faceted beads in gold, green, burgundy and beige colors. Natural garnet and chrysoprase beads;
Brooch base and gold-colored fittings (bead huggers, shaped metal beads);
Non-woven fabric (or felt);
Leather, thick paper, Moment glue;
Monofilament and beading needles.

When creating a rose we will use the mosaic weaving technique. For convenience, I drew two diagrams: the first is a diagram of weaving the middle of a rose, and the second is an example of creating teeth on the edge of the petals. When starting embroidery, mark the center on the base with a line and draw a flattened spiral a little closer to the edge from the center. We embroider it with brown rainbow, and use beige beads along the edges. Please note that the sum of beads must be odd. Now we fill the voids inside the spiral with dark green, and then weave along the sewn brown beads using the mosaic technique, not forgetting that the edges should be light and therefore we use beige rainbow beads for them.

Now that the center of the flower is ready, we weave 4 petals around, slightly overlapping. We draw an outline on the base, embroider it with beads and fill the inner gap with dark green. To make the rose brighter and more interesting, I sew more faceted gold and green beads in between. We make the petals slightly higher than the center by adding 2 rows. We weave cloves on the edges. To make the petal stronger, we pass the needle and thread repeatedly along all the outer beads and tighten.

Only after finishing the petal do we draw the outline of the next one, because you never know what will happen. The larger and longer the petal, the higher it should be due to the added rows. The next petals should overlap slightly in the center.
We make the lower petals smaller, rounding the bottom of the rose. Here’s another trick: for the beginning of the petal, I choose wider beads at the base, and narrower ones for the edges, which is why I roll them inward. Each rose is individual, because... it does not use one template. A flower is created from the center, and how its petals will be arranged is up to the master and his taste. It is better to choose a color for filling the voids between the petals, darker, darker, or at least to match the materials that you are going to include in the work.

Cut out the finished rose. I tint the bright white edges of the base with brown acrylic paints. I embroider tightly and, of course, in such cases the base of the embroidery is deformed. Then, when gluing the work, I have to put something heavy on top so that the product comes out even after the glue dries. You can't do that with brooches. Then I simply cut out an opening the size of a brooch base in a hard box and use it all the time.

I cut out a blank from leather to decorate the reverse side. I mark the places where cuts are required and use scissors to cut out two holes for the spring and the eye of the fastener on the fastener. I coat it with glue, insert a needle with a spring and the eye of the fastener into the cut holes. Then we glue a pattern made of thick paper to the back of the embroidery (a postcard or a candy box will do). It should be 2-3 mm smaller than the contour of our rose. Then we apply glue to the inside again and glue it to the suede side of the leather with the fastener. We place the future brooch on the box with the clasp in the opening and, placing something weighty on top, go and rest for 15 minutes, letting the glue dry.

Having rested and gained strength, we proceed to lining the edge of the pendant with dark green beads. After trimming the edges, we start decorating and then, like fantasy, it starts to whisper. In my case, I decorated the bottom with pendants made of beads and gold fittings. The edges were trimmed with green lights with gold beads and faceted beads.
Each work is a complete improvisation, without precise diagrams. I wish you all good luck, inspiration and success in all your endeavors!

Source http://biserok.org/brosh-osennyaya-roza/

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