Perfume types. Persistence of different types of perfumes

only on the basis of whether they like its flavor or not. But after all, perfumes, like cosmetics, are rarely universal. They are divided into groups, each of which has its own characteristics. According to the classification compiled at the beginning of the 20th century by leading French perfumers, all perfumes are divided into the following groups:

• Floral;
• Citrus;
• Fern (fougère);
• chypre;
• Oriental (animalistic);
• woody;
• fruit;
• Ozone (oceanic).

A little later, in the middle of the 20th century, tobacco and leather aromas were added to this list, as well as specific cooking perfumes with the smells of coffee, whiskey, champagne, figs and other drinks and products.

Floral fragrances

Perhaps this group is most popular among women of the "summer type", especially blue-eyed blondes. Floral perfumes include fresh and sensual fragrances with base notes , jasmine, narcissus, violet, mimosa and other fresh flowers. As a rule, perfumes of this group are suitable for day and evening, but you have to be careful with them, because the pure floral scent is very intense: a few extra drops, and it becomes too heavy and defiant, especially in hot weather.

Perfume of the flower group is not recommended for young girls: these fragrances are addressed to accomplished women who are already 30 years old. For young ladies, such youth options as floral-citrus or floral-fruity perfumes are more suitable - they have a light, understandable, fresh and attractive aroma.

Examples of popular floral perfumes: "Noa" and "Anais Anais" by Cacharel, "Delicious" and "DKNY 212" by Carolina Herrera, "Love of Pink" by Lacoste.

Citrus flavors (Hesperides)

Alluring citrus perfumes have no age restrictions. You can often hear that citrus perfumes are called "Hesperides". They got this name in honor of the daughters of the ancient Greek god Hesperus, who guarded the mysterious "golden apples" with magical properties - oranges - in the magic garden.

Fresh, subtle citrus aromas of lemon, bergamot, grapefruit, orange, tangerine are perfect for all women without exception, and especially for red-haired beauties, sophisticated and feminine. It should be noted that the perfumes of this group are an excellent choice for business people, both women and men.

It is believed that a discreet and unobtrusive citrus aroma attracts the interlocutor and contributes to success in concluding even very important deals. Citrus perfumes belong to the daytime category. It is not customary to use them for evening "going out" and special occasions.

Popular citrus perfumes: "EauFraiche" by CristianDior, "Signoricci" by NinaRicci, "BrownSugar" by Fresh, "AcquaFiorentina" by Creed.

Fougère (fern) aromas

"Fern" is translated into French as "fougre" ("fouget"). Therefore, this group of fragrances got its name. Mostly it includes perfumes with base notes of oak moss. Also an obligatory component in the composition of fougere perfumes is lavender. The group of fern perfumes is very extensive. Traditionally, it is divided into fougere greens (smell , for example), spicy (aromas of spices), fruity, floral (geranium).

Fougère perfumes and eau de toilette are unisex and are very popular with both men and women who love slightly tart, invigorating and illuminating fragrances. Fern perfumes are daytime, they go well with youth style of clothing, suitable for active sports. Women of mature age can recommend fougere perfumes with notes of oriental spices, but for young girls - fougere fruity aromas or bouquets with light notes of bergamot and greens.

Popular fern perfumes: "Nobile" by Gucci, "EgoistPlatinum" by Chanel, "CoolWaterWoman" by Davidoff, "Aztec" by Yves Rocher.

Chypre group

Dynamic, rich chypre perfumes gained extraordinary popularity in the middle of the 19th century. It is curious that chypre perfumes owe their name to the Greek island of Crete, on which a special kind of exotic Mediterranean oak moss grows, which is always present in the base notes of all the fragrances of this group. As a rule, rich smells of moss are combined in perfume compositions with subtle citrus or floral notes, sometimes with smells of fresh fruits and hot spices.

Chypre perfumes can be classified as universal, but among men they have more fans than among women. The representatives of the stronger sex can be offered magnificent chypre fragrances with notes of tobacco and suede, but for the ladies - fresh chypre perfumes with aldehyde floral notes of jasmine, lily of the valley, rose, as well as perfumes with hints of bergamot and patchouli. Chypre perfumes are more suitable as an evening option for special occasions, but eau de toilette is the perfect choice for daytime perfumes for every day.

Popular chypre perfumes: "Miss Dior 1947" by CristianDior, "Chance" by Chanel, "Yohji" by Yohji Yamamoto, "Essential" by Paloma Picasso.

Animal group

Animal perfumes are perfumes with base notes made from oils of animal origin. First of all, these include classic amber perfumes, in which strong base notes of amber prevail - a substance produced in the endocrine glands of the sperm whale and which has a very rich and pleasant smell. Also in the group of animalistic fragrances are perfumes based on- a special strong-smelling secret produced by the glands of animals such as musk deer or beaver. Both amber and musk perfumes are bright, persistent, spicy, rather heavy and… very expensive, since the cost of a gram of natural amber and musk is many times higher than the cost of a gram of precious metals.

Almost all animalistic perfumes belong to the category of elite evening winter perfumes for mature women. It is highly discouraged to use perfumes of this group during the daytime, and especially in hot weather: under the influence of strong heat, ambergris and musk can change the smell far from for the better.

Examples of popular animal perfumes: MagieNoire by Lancome, Poison by CristianDior, Wild Musk by Coty.

tree group

The popularity of woody perfumes is growing day by day. Gorgeous forest fragrances with base notes, sandal, , vetiver, cedar, fir, pine, juniper cannot leave anyone indifferent. Perfumes and eau de toilette of the tree family for men are mostly strong perfumes with a sharp and dryish aroma. In collections for women, combined woody-citrus bouquets with a slightly sweet smell are most often found. Also, for the fair sex, many perfume brands offer tart cedar-citrus compositions, unusually rich perfumes with base woody-incense notes, delicate “liqueur”-woody aromatic bouquets with top and middle fresh fruity notes.

Woody group perfumes mostly belong to the category of universal evening perfumes.

Examples of popular forest perfumes: Burberry "The Beat" by Burberry, "Armani Code" by Armani, "BluedeChanel" by Chanel.

Fruit group of perfumes

Fruit group perfumes are classic summer casual fragrances designed for romantic, gentle and self-confident women and girls who want to emphasize their sophisticated attractiveness. In the family of fruity perfumes, it is worth highlighting the fruity-floral subgroup: these are very fresh and delicate compositions with notes of raspberry, cranberry, melon, watermelon, green apple, pineapple, exotic flowers with slight echoes of vanilla, tart cinnamon and tonka bean. There are a great many variations on the theme: they are produced by almost all perfume brands. Fruit eau de toilette belongs to the daytime category, while perfume can also be used as an evening option.

Examples of popular fruity perfumes: "Funny" by Moschino, "Addict Shine" by CristianDior, "Tropiques" by Lancome.

Ozone group

Ozone perfumes are also called oceanic. They can only be described in two words - the extraordinary freshness and purity of the endless expanses of the sea. Ozone perfumes are equally well suited for women of any age, but they sound especially attractive on young girls who want to fully emphasize the charm of their youth. Also, many perfume companies produce men's ozone group toilet waters - they are addressed to slightly conservative representatives of the stronger sex, who prefer very restrained, but at the same time deep aromas.

In perfume compositions, the ozone base is traditionally combined with floral notes of rose, bergamot, jasmine and citrus notes of bergamot and grapefruit.

Examples of popular ozone perfumes: "Ocean Lounge" by Escada, "Dune" by CristianDior, "Happy" by Clinique.

Aldehyde group

In a separate group, it makes sense to single out and - synthetic perfume compositions, which are very widely represented on the modern market. There are practically no separate components in them: chemical components, mixing with each other, create a wide variety of aromatic compositions with original and sometimes unique shades.

Opinions about aldehyde perfumes can be found very different - from enthusiastic to sharply negative. It can be said for sure that the perfumes of the aldehyde group are distinguished by their expressiveness, saturation and durability. Therefore, it is undoubtedly worth paying attention to them, especially for women who are looking for non-standard and slightly extravagant compositions. By the way, one of the first aldehyde fragrances created by perfumers is the famous Chanel No. 5, Marilyn Monroe's favorite perfume. Comments are unnecessary here.

We really hope that this article will help you choose and buy perfume for yourself or as a gift.

Enjoy excellent and refined aromas and be unsurpassed every day!

Products of modern perfumery are produced in different types and for various purposes. They can be liquid, solid or powder.

The main products of perfumery are perfumes, colognes, perfume and toilet water.

Perfume

Perfume is a mixture of extracts dissolved in alcohol with the addition of a fixative of animal origin. Perfume contains 15-22% perfume composition, which is dissolved in 90% alcohol. The mixture includes the most expensive flower and plant essences, the proportion of odorous oils is 20 - 40%, sometimes even higher. Such a mixture, the most concentrated, is called Parfum by the French, Parfume by the British. Most often, perfumes are produced in small bottles with a capacity of 7 ml or 15 ml. Perfume bottles are exclusive, some are works of art. Therefore, it is not surprising that this is the most expensive perfume. Persistence of perfume 5 - 10 hours, maybe more.

Perfumery water (Eau de Parfum)

To date, the most popular and sought-after type of perfumery products. If spirits undeniably take first place in terms of strength, then perfumery water is second. The share of odorous concentrate is 15-25%. The perfume composition contains 12-13% aromatic raw materials in 90% alcohol. Eau de parfum is sometimes referred to as daytime perfume and is less long-lasting than perfume. On average, the smell lasts 4-5 hours, on clothes much longer. It should be applied with caution on clothing, for example, on silk and jewelry this should not be done.
Eau de parfum is sold, as a rule, in a spray bottle, which is very convenient for both transportation and use.

Toilet water (Eau de Toilette)

In toilet water, the concentration of odorous substances is from 8–10% to 20% in 85% alcohol. This is a lighter type of perfume. It is suitable for use during the day and in the hot season, as well as for work. Perfumes for men are most often represented by eau de toilette, and the concentration of the fragrant mixture in it is somewhat lower - from 6 to 12%. The share of light, refreshing ingredients is slightly higher than the share of warm and persistent ingredients. Eau de toilette stays on
2 - 3 hours. You have to spend more toilet water during the day than perfume, but this suits many, since the price is more affordable and the variety of containers: 30.50.75.100 ml.
Toilet water is sold most often in the form of sprays.

Cologne (Eau de Cologne)

This is the least concentrated product - 3 - 5% extract in 70 - 80% alcohol. Eau de Cologne is more often indicated on bottles of aromatic e-liquids for men. However, in general perfumes, the designation Eau de Cologne is also used for a refreshing liquid with a slight citrus effect. But the type of perfume made in the USA with the designation cologne is equal to Eau de Parfum.

Refreshing water - sports water - L "Eau Fraiche, Eau de Sport

This type of perfumery contains 1-3% perfume composition in 70-80% alcohol. This perfume is most often with a citrus smell, light, transparent, airy, filled with the aroma of freshness.

Deodorant

This type of perfumery is used as a means of hygiene, but is used not only in its intended purpose, but also as an aromatic agent. Deo Parfum is both aromatic and refreshing.

Shaving lotion

The concentration of odorous substances is quite low 2 - 4%. It is best to use such a perfume product as a hygiene product with a perfume of the same name. In addition to aromatic raw materials, Aftershave contains various therapeutic and prophylactic components that moisturize, soften the skin, and protect against irritation.

Dry perfume (sachet)

Perfumes - sachets are designed to perfume linen. These are bags made of fabric or paper, in which the plant mass is: rose petals, lavender, crushed orris root, etc. The bags are shifted when stored in the closet, linen that retains the smell of plants. Sasha used to be used not only for linen, but put in pillows or hung on the bed to the headboard so that there was a pleasant even sleep, so that insomnia would not torment, and the nervous system would calm down.

Smoking Essence

Essence is an alcoholic solution of fragrant substances. A few drops of such a liquid, poured onto a heated metal surface, are enough for the aromatic vapors to surround you with their fragrance and create an atmosphere of comfort, freshness and enjoyment in your home.

smoking paper

Strips of paper impregnated with a solution of fragrant substances are also used to flavor rooms. Frankincense, myrrh and other resins are often used here. These strips are held over the fire, and the atmosphere is fragrant and soothing.

Body lotion

It is also related products to perfumery or toilet water. The lotion contains oils and emulsifiers that blend closely and envelop the skin. They are usually used after a bath.

Bath oil

Oil is added to the bath. Used as aromatherapy. The scent is much stronger than the lotion.

These were the main types of perfumery products. And the next publication will tell you how you can save on perfume purchases.

Smell is something that we can feel at the subconscious level. He can both bewitch and repulse. A pleasant smell attracts us like a precious stone, and we experience pleasure when inhaling the aroma. There are many divine fragrances in nature. In order to enjoy your favorite aroma at any time, a large number of artificial ones were created. Therefore, it became necessary to classify them. What types of perfumes are on the market should be known to every woman who wants to keep up with the times and take care of herself.

The classification of aromas is presented in a large number of options: German, American, French, etc. Different firms and specialists put forward their own classifications. Between 1990 and 2001, the perfume community in France became one of the most famous. You should determine which group the smell of your favorite fragrances belongs to, and you will choose the one that suits you. It is important to know and understand the groups of fragrances that are found in all classifications. We offer you the main groups of aromas.


The perfume composition consists of head, core and base notes. The head note creates the initial impression of perfumery. Then the key aroma is revealed - the core note. The main note is a train that envelops its owner.

Floral fragrances
This group is the most common. Floral perfume embodies the extraordinary aroma of freshly cut flowers. These can be the smells of roses, lily of the valley, jasmine, lilac, lily, peony, mimosa, carnation, violet, magnolia, chrysanthemum, daffodil, etc. Perfumes of the flower group create a feeling of purity, freshness, tenderness and sophistication. Floral fragrances can be worn at any time of the year, but most of all they will be appropriate in spring and summer. Surrounding yourself with this light delicate aroma, your attribute must certainly be a good mood. Floral scents are great for cheerful, cheerful and romantic women.
Examples of "fresh" well-known fragrances are: Cool Water Woman, Dune, Kenzo, Chanel No. 5, Climat.

Oriental (oriental) fragrances
These include the smells of oriental resins, musk, vanilla, patchouli and sandalwood. Oriental group perfumery embodies a passionate, mysterious, burning, deep aroma. Oriental scents are great for evening celebrations. For a woman who wants to wrap herself in mystery, this scent is perfect.
We offer you fragrances: Black Pearls by Elisabeth Taylor, Casmin by Chopard, Opium by Yves Saint Laurent, etc.

Marine (oceanic, ozone, air) fragrances
Marine aromas give a feeling of freshness and coolness. They carry the smell of the sea surf, the morning breeze. Light, clean, tonic aroma - an indispensable assistant for a business meeting.
Notable fragrances are Duna by Crictian Dior and Sunflower by Elizabeth Arden.

woody fragrances
Woody notes are most often used in men's perfumes. These include the smells of sandalwood, rose bush and patchouli, dry cedar, myrtle, musk and blue iris. Such aromas create a feeling of severity, warmth and velvety.
Representatives of the family are the fragrances Salvadoro Dali by Salvadoro Dali, Paloma Picasso by Paloma Picasso.

Fresh (green) flavors
These include the smells of leaves, mowed grass, citrus plants, first spring flowers, green vegetables. Fresh scents include lavender, rosemary, juniper, bergamot, hyacinth, and more. They go well with summer heat and light-colored clothes.
Green fragrances are popular and well-known: Chanel No. 19 by Chanel, Gio by Giorgio Armmani.

Chypre fragrances
Chypre notes carry a feeling of freshness, coolness. They include scents of sage, patchouli, resin, oakmoss, and the like. Chypre fragrances are suitable for elegant, independent, self-confident women. The most suitable season for chypre notes is winter. They are perfect for nature lovers. Chypre perfumes are rich and aristocratic. They combine delicate sweetness and revitalizing freshness.
Examples of the chypre group of fragrances are Halston, Miss Dior.

Aldehyde flavors
These include synthetic fragrances that do not exist in nature. Compositions with the addition of aldehydes are colorful, juicy, intense. Aldehyde fragrances are suitable for cool weather. They are ideal for romantic, tender women.

Citrus flavors (Hesperides)
Citrus perfume embodies the aromas of lemon, orange, mandarin, grapefruit and bergamot. These smells create lightness and freshness, they are great for summer time. Citrus aromas are in harmony with young women who prefer to always be on top.
Popular fragrances: Eau de Rochas by Rochas and Gieffe by Gianfranko Ferre L*Eau par Kenzo.

fruit flavors
These include aromas of apple, pear, apricot, pineapple, orange, peach, bergamot, neroli, papaya and other fruits. These scents carry youth and femininity. They are suitable for any time of day and season. Fruit flavors are suitable for everyone who appreciates a healthy and energetic lifestyle. Sweet. Terry like peach and fresh like citrus.
Notable fruity fragrances include Jess by Jessica McClintock, Lauren, and Liz Claiborne by L. Claiborne.

Leather fragrances
This group of fragrances is masculine. They recreate the natural smells of the skin - smoky, tobacco, the smell of burnt wood, etc. Leather notes are aromas of juniper, birch, resin, various essential oils with a neutral smell.
Examples of leather fragrances are English Leather by Dana, Royal Copenhagen and Pour Lui by Oscar de la Renta.

Fougère (fern) aromas
This fragrance was created in 1882 by the French perfumer Paul Parnet. It is dominated by scents of lavender, geranium, forest moss, with notes of coumarin and bergamot. Since the fern has no smell, the toilet waters of this group have freshness with a slight bitterness.
Fern fragrances are Baryshnikov by Parlux, Cool Water Woman by Davidoff.

Spicy flavors
The aromas of this family are slightly sweet. They contain the sharpness of pepper, laurel with woody shades. The aroma contains notes of ginger, cinnamon and cardamom, as well as the smell of cloves and lavender.
This group includes: Coco from Chanel, KL from Lagerfeld.

Culinary flavors
The classification of spirits by some authors includes this group. The basis of such aromas is figs, chocolate, dates, rice, cheese, tea, coffee, scotch, whiskey, port wine, champagne, etc.

Since ancient times, attempts to classify odors have been made by scientists belonging to various fields of science. The naturalist Carl Linney in his Odores medicamentorum (1756) developed a system of seven classes (spicy, fragrant, amber-musky, garlic, goat, repulsive, fetid); around the same time, doctor Albrecht von
Haller proposed a much simpler classification of just three categories (pleasant, unpleasant, and "intermediate" odors). At the end of the 19th century, the Dutch psychologist Hendrik Zwaardemaker reworked the Linnaean system, adding ethereal and burnt aromas to it (thus, nine categories were obtained) and dividing some classes into subclasses:

1. Essential odors (acetone, chloroform).
2. Spicy smells.
2.1. Camphor (camphor, needles).
2.2. Spicy (cloves).
2.3. Anise (anise, menthol).
2.4. Citrus fruits (lemon, orange).
2.5. Almonds (bitter almonds).
2.6. Others (laurel, cinnamon, lavender).
3. Incense.
3.1. Floral (jasmine).
3.2. Violets (violet).
3.3. Vanilla (vanilla).
4. Amber-musky (ambergris, musk).
5. Garlic.
5.1. Garlic (garlic).
5.2. Arsenic (arsenic).
5.3. Halogen (bromine).
6. Burnt (toasted bread, tobacco smoke).
7. Caprylic, or goat (cheese, sweat, urine, semen).
8. Repulsive (some varieties of orchids, some insects).
9. Fetid (rotten meat, feces).

Soon there were attempts to calculate smells not in two-dimensional, but in three-dimensional perspective. According to the idea of ​​Hans Henning (1916), any smell had to find its strictly defined place inside the so-called "perfumery prism", at the corners of which there were basic, primary smells (floral, fruity, herbal, burnt, smelly, resinous) . Another similar system, based on four "psychologically basic" smells (pleasant, sour, burning, caprylic), was proposed in 1927 by the Americans Crocker and Henderson: they proposed to assign to each smell a value from 1 up to 8 on these scales; thus, using this system, it is theoretically possible to describe up to 8888 different aromas.

In the 1960s the American scientist J. Amour, within the framework of his stereochemical theory of odors, returned to the seven-part classification (essential, camphor, musky, floral, mint, caustic and smelly). If the task of calculating all conceivable flavors was largely theoretical in nature, being thus the prerogative of the exact sciences, then the narrow
The problem of classifying perfumery smells became more and more acute as the popularity of perfumery grew: the perfume manufacturer, seller and buyer needed some common language.

At the turn of the XIX-XX centuries, many perfumers tried to create their own classification. In 1870 Eugène Rimmel proposed a rubricator of 18 categories; in 1887, Septimus Piess put forward his idea of ​​the “odophone”, which helps to create harmonious scent chords (for example, ingredients from the groups “do”, “mi” and “salt” form perfumes “c major” in this system).

In 1926, the American William Poucher published Perfumes, Cosmetics and Soaps, in which he also attempted to classify

smells. In 1936, the classification of the French pharmacist Rene Serbelo appeared, in which there were as many as 75 classes - too many to be used in practice.

Much more convenient was the classification of the French perfumer Henri Robert (creator of fragrances No. 19 and "Cristalle" by Chanel), which contained 18 categories:

1. Sour smells (vinegar).
2. Fruit smells (fruit, mint, anise).
3. Camphor scents (camphor, rosemary, pine needles, thyme).
4. Linalool scents (rosewood, lavender, coriander, bergamot).
5. The smell of orange blossom and jonquil (a kind of narcissus).
6. Jasmine scents (jasmine, ylang-ylang).
7. Vegetable smells (lilac, lily of the valley, narcissus, hyacinth, etc.).
8. Spicy smells and their main components (sweet peas, nutmeg, ginger, cinnamon).
9. Honey smells.
10. Rose and geranium scents.
11. Iris, violet, mignonette.
12. Woody scents (cedar, sandalwood, vetiver).
13. Pepper scents (patchouli, pepper).
14. Mosses, licorice.
15. Tobacco.
16. Vanilla.
17. Herbal amber notes, cypress, sage.
18. Animal notes, beaver stream, musk, qi-betin.

Much later, in 1983, several well-known French perfumers (Raymond Chaillant, Yuri Gutsats, Jean Kerleo, Raymond Poulican, Henri Sebag, Henri Robert's nephew Guy Robert, etc.) created the "Technical Committee" of the French Society of Perfumers (STPF - Societe Technique des Parfumeurs de France). One of the main goals of the committee was to develop a classification that would most fully reflect the state of perfumery. In 1984, the first version of the classification appeared
French Perfumery Committee, covering only women's fragrances. It had five categories: floral, chypre, fougère ("fern"), amber and leather scents. Three of them (floral, thorn and amber) were subdivided, in turn, into subcategories.

The second version was proposed in 1990: masculine scents were already present in it, the categories of citrus and woody scents were added, and fougere and leather scents began to be divided into subcategories. The latest version of the classification, dated 1998, still includes seven categories subdivided into 45 subcategories. In her
already reflected the fact that in the early 90s a completely new perfume type arose - "marine" aromas, however, it was decided not to single them out in a separate group, but to distribute them according to the "gender" attribute: women's fragrances fell into group B8 ( "floral-marine"), and masculine - in E7 ("tree-marine"). However, for the so-called "edible" or "gourmet" smells, even such a solution was not found, they were simply scattered into different groups.

CLASSIFICATION OF THE FRENCH PERFUMERY COMMITTEE (CLASSIFICATION DES PARFUMS ET TERMINOLOGIE, EDITION SOCIETE FRANÂIS DU PARFUM, 1999)
A. Citrus
Al Citrus ("Eau Folle" by Guy Laroche, "Signoricci" by Ricci)
A2 Citrus-spicy ("Eau de Lanvin" by Lanvin, "Cacharel pour Homme" by Casharel)
A3 Citrus-aromatic ("Eau de Dali" by Dali, "Green Water" by Jacques Fath)
A4 Citrus-chypre-floral ("Eau de Rochas" by Rochas, "Eau Sauvage" by Christian Dior)
A5 Citrus-woody ("Drakkar" by Guy Laroche, "Armani pour Homme" by Armani)
A6 Citrus-woody-floral ("SCOPE" by Cal-vin Klein, "Bvlgary" by Bvlgary)

B. Floral
Bl Monofloral ("Diorissimo" by Christian Dior, "Narcisse Noir" by Caron)
B2 Floral Lavender (English Lavender by At-kinsons, Agua Lavanda by Puig)
VZ Flower bouquet ("White Linen" by Estee Lauder, "L" Air du Temps" by Nina Ricci)
B4 Floral-aldehyde (“No. 5” by Chanel, “Ma-dame Rochas” by Rochas)
B5 Flower green ("Vent Vert" by Pierre Balmain, "Fifth Avenue" by E. Arden)
B6 Floral-fruity-woody ("Nahema" by Guerlain, "Kashaya" by Kenzo)
87 Floral-woody (“Amarige” by Givenchy, “Fahrengeit” by Christian Dior)
88 Floral Marine ("Cool Water Woman" by Davidoff, "Acqua di Gio" by Armani)
B9 Floral-fruity ("Les Belles" by Nina Ricci, "So de la Renta" by O. de la Renta)

C. Wine glass
CI Fougère ("Jicky" by Guerlain, "That Man" by Revlon)
C2 Aromatic Floral ("White Jeans" by Versace, "Para Hombre" by Loewe)
SZ Amber Amber (“Skin Bracer” by Mennen, “The Dreamer” by Versace)
C4 Aromatic spicy ("Old Spice" by Shulton, "Enigme" by Pierre Cardin)
C4 Aromatic fougere ("Jazz" by Yves Saint Lau-rent, "Drakkar Noir" by Guy Laroche)
C5 Aromatic fruity ("Escape for Men" by Calvin Klein)

D. Chypre
Dl Chypre (“Chypre” by Coty, “Pour Monsieur” by Chanel)
D2 Chypre-fruity ("Mitsouko" by Guerlain, "Sables" by Annick Goutal)
D3 Chypre-floral-aldehyde ("Aromatics Eli-xir" by Clinique, "Diva" by Ungaro)
D4 Chypre leather (“Talisman” by Balenciaga, “Deep Forest” by Bogner)
D5 Aromatic chypro ("Phileas" by Nina Ricci, "Trussardi Uomo" by Trussardi)
D6 Chypre Green ("Miss Dior" by Christian Dior, "Polo" by Ralph Lauren)
D7 Chypre Floral ("Donna Trussardi" by Trussardi, "Chromatics" by Estee Lauder)

E. Woody
El Woody ("Santal de Mysore" by Shiseido, "Vetiver" by Givenchy)
E2 Woody-citrus-coniferous (“Bvlgary pour Hom-me” by Bvlgary)
E3 Woody-spicy ("Ricci Club" by Nina Ricci, "Comme des Gargons White" by Comme des Gargons)
E4 Woody amber (“Chaos” by Donna Karan, “Santos” by Carder)
E5 Woody aromatics (“Xerius” by Givenchy, “D” by Dunhill)
E6 Woody-spicy-leather (“Acteur” by L. Azzaro)
E7 Woody-nautical ("Kenzo pour Homme" by Kenzo, "Eau d" lssey" by Issey Miyake)
E8 Woody-fruity ("Feminite du Bois" by Shi-seido, "Dolce & Gabbana pour Homme" by Dolce & Gab-bana)

F. Amber
Fl Soft amber (“Vanilla Muse” by Coty, “Loulou Blue” by Cacharel)
F2 Floral-spicy-amber (“Accenti” by Gucci, “Organza” by Givenchy)
F3 Citrus-amber ("Petits et Mamans" by Bvl-gary, "Habit rouge" by Guerlain)
F4 Floral-woody-amber (“Tocade” by Rochas, “Obsession for Men” by Calvin Klein)
F5 Floral semi-amber (“Youth Dew” by Estee Lauder, “Le Male” by Jean-Paul Gaultier)
F6 Floral-fruity-amber ("Nilang" by Lalique, "Fou d" EUe" by Lapidus)

G. Leather
G1 Leather (“Tabac Blond” by Caron, “Derby” by Guerlain)
G2 Floral Leather (Knize Ten by Knize, Centaure Cuir Etalon by Pierre Cardin)
G3 Tobacco Leather (Royal Copenhagen by Swank)

At present, the classification of the French Perfumery Committee has become widespread. An alternative to it can only be the geometric classification of the American company Dragoco, which is an octagon - a “perfume-dimensional octagon”. However, this clear form imposes even more severe restrictions on the content. If French perfumers, although reluctant, are forced to add new groups to their system in accordance with the needs of the time, then Dragoco classifiers are forced to “drive wedges” into their offspring: in the latest version of 2002, there are already four faces out of eight
are divided in half, so it would be more correct to call this figure a dodecagon (dodecagon). And this, of course, is not the limit. Today, the classification is outdated and no longer applies.
In the classifications created by other perfume organizations, there is even less logic and more curiosities: for example, in the American training center Per-fumer's World, teaching is based on a system whose classes correspond to the letters of the English alphabet - for convenience memory.Psychologists classify perfume from a completely different point of view: they are interested not so much in the properties of the fragrance itself, but in the effect that it has on the mind.One of the options for such a classification is offered by Dr. S. Jellinek.He identifies four facets of the feminine nature: sophistication, sportiness, naturalness and seductiveness, and perfumes, in his opinion, can be divided into two scales: "warmth - cold" and
romance is independence. For example, in the romantic group, cool fragrances (“Eau de Givenchy” by Givenchy, “Calyx” by Prescriptives) are more suitable for women who value harmony with nature, while warm ones (“Noa Noa” by Otto Kern, “Tendre Poison "from Dior) - seductresses. As for classic perfumes (“Rive Gauche” by Yves Saint-Laurent, “Chanel No. 5” by Chanel), they are in the center of the table by S. Jellinek and, in his opinion, are suitable for all occasions.

When choosing a perfume, many of us pay attention to strange abbreviations like EDT, EDP, PDT. Of course, manufacturers of aromatic compositions do not just create such inscriptions on packages and bottles, allowing consumers to evaluate the durability and quality of the selected copy. What is the concentration of perfume, what categories are most often represented by well-known brands and how to determine the percentage of aromatic substances, water and alcohol in the composition? This article will help you understand this and much more.

A perfume composition is a set of aromatic substances or oils that are intentionally dissolved by perfumers in alcohol of varying concentrations. Thus, the durability of the perfume, the duration and intensity of its sound are determined. In the art of perfumery, there are four main categories of fragrances by concentration, but many brands complicate the classification by bringing their own variants to the list. What surprises the modern world with well-known perfume manufacturers and is it worth bypassing the classic categories of fragrances in search of something special? Let's figure it out together.

Perfume (Extrait de Parfum). The presented type of aroma composition is often produced in small bottles, since the amount of oils is high. The concentration of aromatic substances in perfumes ranges from 15 to 40%, which makes them very persistent. Perfumes remain on the skin for a long time, and their maximum intensity falls on the base notes. The muffled sound of the perfume is characteristic of the compositions of the Guerlain fashion house, in particular the Shalimar fragrance, first released in 1925.

Thanks to a special technique for creating perfumes, perfumers achieved an impeccable result. Initially, they mixed the aromatic components of the composition, evaluated the final result, and only then diluted the concentration of the perfume with an alcohol solution. The average durability of perfume is 5-10 hours. Depending on the method of application, exposure to weather, skin type and temperature, the audibility of the fragrance can be significantly longer.

Perfumed water (Eau de Parfum). This type of perfumery became popular in the twentieth century and is still the most popular. Its difference from perfumes is a lower concentration, which in this category of fragrances ranges from 10 to 20%. The intense longevity of the eau de parfum falls on the middle and final notes of the pyramid, so the fragrances are considered very versatile. Eau de Parfum can be used as an evening or daytime fragrance, with a longevity of 3 to 5 hours. An interesting fact: the first composition released not in the format of perfumes, but with the concentration characteristic of eau de parfum, was Chanel Coco. The incredible demand for this fragrance was the impetus for the birth of a new category in the world of perfumery under the acronym "EDP".

Toilet water (Eau de Toilette). This class of perfumery contains from 5 to 15% of the extract of the composition and is available in fairly large bottles. Eau de toilette appeared earlier than perfumed water, and its popularity today has reached its highest level. This type of aroma composition can be used in combination with deodorants, creams, body lotions and aftershave. That is why most fragrances for men are created in the format of eau de toilette. The fragrance of this class of perfumery is enough for 2-3 hours. Eau de toilette is an excellent choice as a daytime perfume.

Cologne (Eau de Cologne). At the sight of this piece of perfumery art, most of us have associations with vintage compositions filled with notes of cloves, lily of the valley or spices. However, today this class of perfumery is no less popular than in the 19th century, and the musical scale of modern colognes has been incredibly modernized. The mega-popular perfume houses Christian Dior, Acqua di Parma, Bvlgari and others did not neglect the creation of this magnificent and legendary version of fragrances, for which they gained even more fans in the face of true perfume gourmets. As Françoise Donche, who is far from the last place in the art of perfumery, said, “Colonies are something that can be classified as true values.” And she is definitely right. The concentration of aromatic oils in colognes traditionally does not exceed 5%, and their sound, although short-lived, is very intense. This class of perfumery is produced in voluminous bottles and often without an atomizer.

In the modern world, you will not surprise anyone with classic types of fragrances, so perfume manufacturers use sophisticated terms or a classification of compositions that they personally invented. So, for example, until the nineties, the French brand Guerlain used the term instead of the usual designation Eau de Parfum Parfum de Toilette. A similar concept was used by the perfumers of the House of Christian Dior, creating something between eau de parfum and perfume. The exclusive work has acquired the name Esprit de Parfum and was embodied in the still-produced Dior Poison perfume.

In the classification of perfumery, a special place is occupied by body mist and hair mist ( Perfume Mist, Brume de Parfum, Voile de Parfum). These compositions are made using 3-5% oils and do not contain alcohol, which makes them as safe as possible for those with sensitive skin or as an anti-phototoxic version. The hair mist has good staying power. Thanks to the foresight of specialists from popular brands, their products are available in different concentrations, which allows you to combine your favorite fragrances and use them for their intended purpose at the same time. Body mist is not only a perfume, but also has a moisturizing effect on the skin.

The classification of perfumery does not exist in order to indicate the high cost and "brand" of the fragrance, but in order to distinguish the intensity of the sound of the perfume pyramid and understand what time of day this or that perfume is intended. It is important to remember that the more essential oils in the composition, the more prolonged and muffled its sound will be. Be aware that perfume is invisible clothing that can influence the feeling of confidence, so be as careful as possible when choosing your fragrance and be guided solely by your sense of smell!