How to finish the edges of thin fabric. Edge processing by hand
Of course, overlock is a necessary thing, therefore, with experience, any novice dressmaker comes to the need to buy it.
However, this does not mean that you need an overlock here and now! If you have not been sewing for a very long time, then you can manage with a sewing machine for a long time and quite successfully. About ways to process allowances without overlock, we will tell further!1. Zigzag scissors
Easiest and fastest of all possible ways. All you need is good quality zigzag scissors.
The disadvantage of this method: it is suitable only for slightly and moderately loose fabrics. If your material tends to crumble, processing with zigzag scissors, alas, will not interfere much with this.
2. Straight stitch with hem
Very simple and fast way- fold the edges of the cuts inward and iron, and then lay a straight line along each folded edge. As an option - you can perform such a seam without a hem.
3. Zigzag stitch
This line is in all modern typewriters, and it is impossible to overestimate its importance! As for the processing of sections with a zigzag stitch, there is only one difficulty here - dense, thick fabrics can be easily overcast with a zigzag, which lies neatly and evenly on them, but thin and bulk materials, knitwear can be "naughty" and as a result, the processing will not look too aesthetically pleasing.
The easiest way to work seam allowances with a zigzag is to sew a little back from the cut, and then trim the excess close to the zigzag. If you are working with light fabrics, you can put the allowances together, again stepping back from the edge, lay a zigzag, cut off the excess allowance, then iron the line to align it a little, then iron it in the right direction.
Zigzag stitches can also be sewn with open and closed cuts.
Read how to sew knitwear on a sewing machine!
4. Fake overlock
Imitation of an overlock (fake, false overlock stitch) is found in many sewing machines and, alas, it is very inferior to a real overlock stitch - the stretchability of such a seam is much more limited.
5. French seam / topstitch
These techniques can be classified as more complex options. The French seam is used for finishing seam allowances on thin fabrics, giving a particularly neat result.
You will find a detailed master class on how to perform a French seam.
The hemstitch is often used when sewing shirts, jeans and bed linen. It is very strong and durable, and the result looks really professional.Read about how to sew a sewing seam in!
6. Processing "hong kong"
"Hong Kong" lining is a laborious method that is often used by top fashion designers and gives an impeccable result. Most often, this method is used in products made of thin and delicate fabrics - lace, silk and chiffon. Or in products with partial lining, for example, in jackets with lining only on the back or shelves.
Look for a detailed master class on the Hong Kong technique with lining!
Alternatively, you can process sections not with a lining, but with an oblique trim. This method is easier, and besides, you can "play" on contrasting shades inlays and fabrics, which gives a very effective result.
There are many ways to process the edges of the fabric, including designer and professional ones. But I will tell you about the simplest and most useful ones that you will need to sew cosplay, having only improvised means: the simplest sewing machine, thread, needle and candle.
1. On a sewing machine
a) Zigzag stitch
This is the most common type of fabric processing and is suitable for any type.
For fabrics with a satin weave (i.e. any iridescent fabrics like satin, crepe satin, etc.) or other "friable" fabrics, it is better to use a zigzag stitch with a small distance between stitches. (In the example, you can see that the greater the distance, the more likely that the fabric will split) (Rectangle: Zigzag 1)
There is also another option how you can use this seam. It is used if you need to quickly process and bend the fabric, and if the processing itself is not very important (for example, a petticoat, or some kind of multi-meter stage decoration).
You take the fabric, fold it over and go along the edge (which is already folded) with a zigzag seam. Those. it turns out you will kill two birds with one stone: you will process the edge that will not crumble and bend the fabric. (Rectangle: 2)
BUT the big minus of this line: it can be noticeable. And if the treatment on the suit should not be visible on your character, then this line will not work.
Processing option for this line:
b) "Help with a closed cut"
It is used for hemming the bottom of the product, the bottom of the sleeves, the edges of towels, sheets, etc. etc. The seam is first folded to the wrong side by 0.5-1 m, then again folded 0.8-3 cm to the wrong side and stitched (the width of the seam is 0.1-0.2 cm from the first fold). For getting quality processing products before finally sewing the hem, you must first lay a basting line and iron the hem. (Rectangle: Hem)
You can see a step by step illustration.
Or on this video.
2.Firing edges
This method is used just if you need to process the fabric discreetly. Burning the edges helps here. Of course, this procedure is very painstaking, because the probability of burning through the fabric or “burning” is more than necessary. + Can only be fired synthetic fabrics. Before you burn parts of the costume, take a piece of fabric and try it on it, because all fabrics “burn” in different ways (the corset satin that I used in the example is resistant to firing, but chiffon burns out “one or two”)
How to do it:
Take a candlestick for a “floating” candle (or an IKEA tablet candle in a metal case), light this candle and lead the fabric, holding it on the candlestick, the main thing is to draw in the same rhythm and not lift the fabric, because the higher the fire, the easier it is for them burn cloth)
(Rectangle: fired)
3. Manually
This is the way when there is no typewriter, but it is necessary to process it. Of course, the most masochistic, but what can you do for a good cosplay.
The technology is very well shown in this
Olans can decorate any product - be it a dress, a blouse and even a coat! We have already given you various shapes, and now we will tell you how easy it is to process the edge of the shuttlecock.
You can process the edge of the shuttlecock in different ways. If you are a happy owner of an overlocker with the ability to perform rolled seams - just great! The edge of the shuttlecock in this case can be processed with a rolled seam. The rolled stitch is much narrower than the overlay stitch, looks very elegant and is very easy to sew, just like a regular overlay stitch. It is only necessary to set the switches on the overlock to the “rolled seam” position.
The second and more time-consuming way of processing the edges of the shuttlecocks is processing with a zig-zag machine seam. This method of processing the edge of the shuttlecock does not require additional sewing equipment, and can be performed on any sewing machine. This type of processing makes the edges of the shuttlecock very thin and airy, moreover, in contrast to the processing with a rolled seam, an elegant wave is formed along the edge of the shuttlecock.
We will show you how to finish the edge of a chiffon frill. However, stretch chiffon, silk, muslin and any other thin dress fabric can also be processed in this way.
How to process the edge of a shuttlecock: a master class
We build a pattern of a shuttlecock
In order to build a shuttlecock without a compass, use this technology. Secure the pencil by pressing it firmly against the measuring tape. Press the centimeter tape to the center of the future semicircle (the radius is calculated).
Rice. 3. Building a shuttlecock pattern
Cut out the shuttlecock according to the pattern with allowances on all sides - 1 cm, along the outer edge - 0.5 cm.
Rice. 4. Cut the shuttlecock
Turn the outer edge 0.5 cm in and press lightly.
Rice. 5. Hemming the edge of the shuttlecock
For our master class, we use threads of contrasting color for clarity. However, you need to process the shuttlecock with threads that exactly match the tone of the fabric. Set the stitch length to 1.5mm and stitch width to 2mm on the sewing machine.
Rice. 6. Processing the edge of the shuttlecock with a zig-zag seam
Start sewing by lightly pulling on the ends of the threads. It is important that the needle pierces the tissue when it is in the left position, and in the right position it falls behind the tissue without piercing it. As you move the fabric, tuck the edge and continue working the edge of the flounce.
Rice. 7. Processing the edge of the shuttlecock with a zig-zag seam
After the entire edge is processed, with wrong side cut off the threads and excess fabric. Do this carefully by placing the scissors on the shuttlecock in this way. otherwise you risk cutting the shuttlecock itself.
Rice. 8. Trim excess fabric from under the edge of the shuttlecock
This is what a shuttlecock looks like ready-made: on the left - a scar of a seam, on the right - a processed shuttlecock.
Rice. 9. Processed edge of the shuttlecock in finished form
When you buy for yourself or your family new clothes, you, first of all, look at the appearance of the thing you like, you try on the product, you are satisfied. But, before you buy a product, you need to carefully look at how well it is sewn, whether everything is in order. Appearance products largely depend on correct execution seams. If a dress or skirt is sewn and processed with a sewing machine, then it is clear that the seams look nice and neat. You understand this, because you yourself also know how to sew.
Modern Sewing machines have many functions that allow you to sew with high quality and neatly overcast the seams. Some craftswomen even have special device, which is called "overlock", which further facilitates the work of processing seams. But what if your machine does not have such functions? What to do then? Learn to do the same work manually, with a needle and thread. A little patience, knowledge and you will succeed. But first, you need to get acquainted with some basic stitches that are used in hand sewing.
Materials needed for overcasting the edges of the product manually
- Needles. They are sold in sets numbered from 1 to 12. The needles must be sharp, without flaws, so that they do not damage the fabric when sewing. It is better to choose needles with special coating in the area of the inlet for the thread, with the so-called golden ear. The thread is inserted into such a needle easily and glides when sewing without problems.
- Threads. They, like needles, must be selected for the fabric from which you sew. The choice of working thread depends on the thickness and type of fabric, on its color.
- Thimble. Train yourself to use this tool. The health of your fingers depends on it. It will protect them from injections and wounds, which will then interfere with your work and cause your bad mood. And this is unacceptable when you sew. Choose a thimble so that it fits snugly on your finger. It didn't squeeze it, but it wasn't great either.
- scissors. After overcasting seams or finishing work with finishing details, be sure to cut the working thread, and do not break it. This can distort the seam and ruin your clothes.
- Marker. There are special water-soluble pencils. In order for the overcasting seam to be neat, it is better to mark the place of the stitches.
Variety of hand stitches
We know in what situations the ability to process the edges and details of clothes manually can help us out and we have selected the tools that we need for this. Now you can start learning different ways How to make an overlock stitch by hand. There are several types of hand seams for processing seam edges. Most often used overcast seams. They are used for overcasting the edges of the part so that the fabric does not fray, for joining fabric parts, when working with soft toys etc.
Hemming seams
You have finished tailoring your product and have processed all the internal and external details in the ways that you considered the most suitable in this case. It remains to hem your work. And in this case, you will again need your ability to perform hand seams. In these cases, it is better not to use the machine.
10 ways to process cuts without an overlock After all, no matter how wonderful the overlock lines of a good overlock are and no matter how cool and professional the cuts processed by them look, but, alas, not all sewing lovers have such right tool in his sewing business. But it's not a problem! Sections of cut details can be processed without overlock. There are plenty of ways to do this. So choose, I don't want to. 1. Processing slices using the "resources" that other people have. To do this, you can seek help from friends, relatives or neighbors who are engaged in tailoring for themselves and their families. And who have in their "set" of tools for sewing - overlock. You can contact a workshop or atelier for tailoring and repairing clothes. And there, for money, with pleasure, you will be processed any cuts and any overlock line. 2. Slices may not be processed at all. Sections of parts cut from non-woven materials (leather, suede, neoprene, etc.) do not need to be processed at all. They don't crumble. When working with woven materials, the details of the pattern can be laid out so that the edges of the allowances of long and even cuts coincide with the edges of the fabric on which they are laid out. And then the sections of the stitched cut parts, cut along the edge, will not need to be processed. But there is one but. A dense, inflexible edge can pull together the completed seam. Therefore, its edge must be cut with scissors to a depth of 0.5-0.7 cm, every 7-10 cm. 3. Treatment of sections by firing. Modern textile fabrics very often contain one or another amount of artificial and synthetic fibers. The vast majority of these fibers melt when exposed to some very hot heat source. Here you can use this and melt the sections of the cut details, for example, with the flame of a burning candle, lighter, etc. Of course, you should first try to melt the cut on an unnecessary piece of the processed tissue. And it goes without saying that in this case it is necessary to act extremely carefully and carefully. In order not to be left not only without manufactured garment but don't burn down the house. On some products, this may form an unpleasant to the touch, hard scar. So this needs to be kept in mind when planning such a processing method. 4. Slicing special tool. There are means to prevent fraying of the product. What is it and how does it work? To begin with, the sections need to be trimmed so that they are beautiful and applied to them special glue. When the glue dries, the fibers of the canvas will be tightly glued together. 5. Processing cuts with zigzag scissors. Sections of light fabrics with a fairly dense weave of fabric threads can be treated against shedding with special scalloped scissors or zigzag scissors, with a cutting edge in the form of teeth. In this way, allowances can be processed: seams vrazutyuzhku and seams in a hem with an open cut. For reliability, before cutting out the cuts with cloves, on the allowances of the seams at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge of the cut, you can lay the usual machine stitch. 6. Processing sections with an open cut hem. Sections of stitched seams can be processed by turning and stitching. Such processing of slices must be planned in advance. Because to fulfill this species seam allowances should be cut to 2-2.5 cm. In the case of slightly curved, convex or concave cuts, it is recommended to lay a line along the edge of the allowance at a distance of 0.5-0.7 cm from the edge. If the cuts are straight, then you can not lay. Then, along the line or, if it is not there, at the same distance from the edge - 0.5-0.7 cm, the cuts of the allowances are tucked on the wrong side, and along the edge, at a distance of 0.1-0.3 cm from it, a line is laid . This method of processing sections is suitable for thin and medium fabrics. But it is not at all suitable for transparent and thick fabrics. Despite the fact that the hem sections remain open, this method of processing the sections is quite effective. From the wrong side of the product, the cuts look neat, and a tight fold prevents them from crumbling during washing. 7. Slicing double seam(reversible, French, zaposhivochny). With the help of such seams, straight sections of cut parts can be simultaneously connected and treated from shedding. 8. Processing cuts with a machine zigzag stitch and special sewing machine stitches. "Zigzag" and other special stitches of the sewing machine, you can simply overcast, or sew and overcast at the same time on woven and knitted materials. The special stitches of the sewing machine look especially good on cuts of dense, heavy fabrics. And the most accurate and even such lines will turn out if they are laid before the seam is completed. But, alas, these are not overlock lines. Therefore, regardless of whether they will be laid before or after the seam, in any case, so that such lines do not tighten the edge of the cut, they must first be laid at some distance from the edge of the allowance, and then very carefully cut off its excess, trying not to touch no way scissors thread stitching. 9. Processing cuts with manual overcasting lines. Types of manual overcasting lines: oblique stitches, loop stitches, cross stitches. To make hand stitches neat and even, at a distance from the edge of the cut, such as the width is planned hand stitch, you can loosen the upper thread tension and sew a machine stitch. And it will serve as a guide - a limiter, so that the length of the stitches of the hand stitch is the same. And after the hand stitch is completed, the machine stitch can be easily removed. Of course, it takes longer to process cuts by hand than on the same sewing machine or overlock. But if you relax, with a calm heart, sit down for this work, then you can imperceptibly process all sections of the product by hand in a very high quality. 10. Processing slices with edging. In a similar way sections of products are processed outerwear from thick, loose, fleecy fabrics without lining. For example, from velveteen, tweed, denim, gabardine, velvet, thick woolen fabrics, etc. Or when, for example, the bottom of the product is so figured that on one side (front), you can see all the insides (allowances), the other. In this case, no other kind of slicing is suitable. Such processing is generally suitable for any other cuts and, of course, for decor. From the wrong side, the edged sections of the finished garment look great. Everything looks very neat, even, besides, the edging cuts are reliably protected from shedding. The fastest way to trim cuts can be done with the help of purchased in specialized stores, already completely ready for use, braid, ribbon, piping, oblique trim, or make them yourself from woven or knitted material. A purchased single-layer bias trim is a braid that is cut out along the bias thread of the fabric, sold with allowances already folded in advance, and ready for use.
