Excellent knitting raglan for women. Raglan on top with knitting needles: a detailed description of openwork models with diagrams

/ 13.02.2017 at 12:27

Greetings, my dears!

Somehow, on a blog, I posted a detailed master class about, in which one of the types of raglan lines was considered with this knitting method. But there are a lot of raglan lines (RL for short), and today let's look at how to knit other simple raglan lines with knitting needles from above. I singled out such lines as the simplest because, having understood the principle itself, you can invent them yourself, whatever you like in your own way. The main thing is that they fit well with the main pattern.

And the main principle is clear and obvious: along the ragged lines, loops for the details of the front, back and sleeves should be evenly added. Add loops, as a rule, after 1 row (in the front rows) 1 loop on both sides of the RL. Thus, it turns out that in total, thanks to the ragged lines, 8 loops are added through the row - 2 for each of the 4 RLs.

• True, there are exceptions, as, for example, in the case of the aforementioned master class. There, 2 loops were added on each side through 3 rows, which in total turns out the same as 1 loop through a row. By the way, if suddenly something is not clear from the following, then it is advisable to read the article with this MK, since the materials of the articles are connected.

There are times when the raglan line does not want to be highlighted. In this case, it kind of imitates a seam. Here's how it looks on a regular garter stitch:

And this is how the same radar looks like on a more complicated pattern (this):

This RL is knitted as follows. First we do. We add 4 loops for RL to the total. That is, for each RL you need only one loop!

Then we collect the loops minus the loops of the front (remember? To get a sprout, for the front of the loop we add gradually with air loops, at the same time forming a recess for the front). From this one loop, intended for RL, it will be necessary to knit 3 loops in the front rows - front, front:

Knitting from one loop of 3 loops (front, yarn, front).

In the first row for knitting the product, we distribute the loops as follows: hem, 1 loop for the RL (we immediately knit 3 from it), the number of loops of the sleeve, 1 loop for the RL (we knit 3 from it), then the number of loops of the back, 1 loop for the RL (we knit from it 3), the number of loops for the second sleeve, 1 loop for the RL (we knit 3 from it), edge.

In the purl rows, we knit three RL loops formed from knitting 3 loops in the previous row from the 1st loop in the previous row (but if you knit everything garter stitch, then knit these loops too). In the next front rows, the RL is already visible, that is, you can see where you made 3 out of 1 loop. Here you knit 3 again from the middle loop of these 3 loops, and include 2 side loops in the main pattern according to its pattern.

Raglan line with double crochets on both sides

Another type of the simplest radar. Here everything is as easy as shelling pears: take one or 2 loops (this will be the central axis of the raglan line), knit them in all rows either with the front or wrong side, and on both sides of them in the front rows, double crochet. In the purl rows, these yarns can be knitted with ordinary purl loops - then the RL will be with holes, as here (I dare say, a rather primitive example, and not quite aesthetic, in my opinion. I show it only to make it easier to explain the meaning):

If the yarn is knitted in the purl rows with the usual purl loop (1 loop between yarns).

Or, in the purl rows, knit yarns with crossed loops in the rhythm of the main pattern. Then it will look something like this:

If the yarn is knitted with a crossed loop (2 loops of the front surface between the yarns).

What is good about this method? And the fact that as an "axis" for the RL you can take not only 1-2 loops, but also any vertical track of some pattern - narrow, or wider. It may be, or a tourniquet. There may be some vertical element of an openwork pattern.

It is only desirable to knit one loop of the wrong side on the sides of the braid, or this vertical element, in order to somehow separate them, and next to these wrong loops, make additions with crochets.

Such radar can serve as an additional decoration for the product. And it might look like this:

With this method, in each specific case, you need to think about how to calculate the loops. If the "axis" of the raglan line is wide enough, then the loops of this "axis" should be included in the number of calculated loops for the details of the front, back and sleeves.

• Example: Suppose you have already done, and for the back of the neck you need 35 loops, and for one sleeve - 15 loops (on the front, if you remember, we do not collect loops, only on the RL front). You want to make the “axis” of the raglan line, on the sides of which there are 1 loop of the wrong side, as here:

In total, such an RL is needed for the “axis”: 8 + 2 = 10 loops. Consider that half of these loops belong to one part, and half to the neighboring one, that is, out of these 10 loops, 5 are, for example, on the shelf, and 5 on the sleeve.

For the first row, we collect: 35 (number of loops for the back) + 30 (number of loops for 2 sleeves) + 10 (number of loops for 2 halves of the RL front) + 2 hem - a total of 77 loops. And when you knit the first row, then between the raglan lines for the sleeve and back, take the number of loops minus the RL loops.

Thus, the calculation of the loops for the first row is as follows: hem, yarn over for adding along the RL, 10 loops of the axis RL (braid + 2 purl on the sides of it), yarn over for adding, 5 loops with the main pattern for the sleeve, yarn over for adding, 10 loops of the axis RL, yarn over for inc, 25 sts in base pattern for back, yarn over for inc, 10 sts in RL axis, yarn over for inc, 5 sts in base pattern for sleeve, yarn over for inc, 10 sts in RL axis, yarn over for inc, hem.

Simple raglan line of 2 loops 3 loops

This RL is similar to the one described in the MK mentioned at the beginning of the article, but it fits a little easier. There are also “fans” here, only they are knitted not from 3 loops 5 through 3 rows, but from 2 loops 3 loops through a row. When calculating the loops, you need to take into account that on each side of the part, 2 loops will go for the radar fans.

For the first row, we collect: loops for the back and 2 sleeves + 4 loops for 2 RL front + 2 hem. In the first row we knit: edge, from 2 loops 3 loops (RL front fans), right next to 2 loops 3 (RL sleeve fans), then we knit with the main pattern the number of loops of the sleeve minus 4 loops on the RL, again 2 fans of 2 loops in a row 3, then the number of loops of the back minus 4 loops for RL, 2 times in a row from 2 loops 3 loops, the number of loops of the sleeve minus 4 loops for RL, 2 times in a row from 2 loops 3 loops , edging.

In even rows, 3 loops, which were formed from knitting from 2 loops in the previous row, are knitted with purl loops.

In subsequent front rows, we include side loops from a pair of fans of the previous front row into the main pattern, and from a pair of those 2 that are located next, we again knit 3 loops each:

Knitting "fans" from 2 loops 3 (we insert the needle immediately into 2 loops and knit 3 loops - front, yarn over, front).

And also, if you wish, you can put either 1 purl or 1 front loop between the fans, if you want there to be no holes in such a RL:

Between the "fans" 1 purl loop is inserted.

1 front loop is inserted between the "fans".

General recommendations when choosing a basic pattern and a raglan line

In order to choose the right raglan line for your product, in my opinion, the rule should be as follows: any RL can be suitable for simple, fine-textured patterns - both simple, inconspicuous, and beautiful wide, for example, in the form of a braid.

But the larger and more intricate the main pattern, the simpler the radar should look. Or it must somehow “echo” with the main pattern. It all depends on your taste and inner sense of harmony.

And what is very important: if you use as the main pattern not just stocking or garter stitch, but a pattern with 2 loops or more, then this pattern should diverge symmetrically to the sides of the raglan line! Otherwise, the view will not be the same ...

It is for this reason that not every pattern can be suitable for knitting raglan from above. It's just not always possible to choose a pattern so that it is symmetrically located along the ragged lines, and even at the same time, it suits the number of loops for details. In a word, every time you need to think over and calculate everything very well.

Well, that's all for now. I will be glad if this material is useful. And then, perhaps, there will be a continuation: we will also consider other, more complex types of ragged lines ...

Classic sweater - raglan knitted according to all knitting rules

Sweater - raglan knitting

Women's raglan sweater with classic knitting needles and 2*2 ribbing.

The size: XS/S (M, L, XL, 2/3XL, 4/5XL)
Bust: 71-86.5 (91.5-96.5, 101.5-106.5, 112-117, 133-137, 142-157.5) see
End circle: 94 (103, 113, 124.5, 140, 160) cm.
Materials: 4 (5, 6, 7, 8, 9) skeins of Caron Simply Soft (100% acrylic, 170 g/288 m), 4.5 and 5.0 mm needles, 4 stitch holders.

Sweater - raglan knitting, description:

Back:** With smaller needles cast on 82 (90, 98, 110, 122, 138) sts.
1st row (front side): * 2 front., 2 out., repeat from * to the last. 2 loops, 2 faces.
2nd row (wrong side): * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * to last. 2 loops, 2 purl.
Repeat the last 2 rows for elastic - 6 cm.
Along the last row of rib from the wrong side, inc 3 (3, 3, 1, 3, 5) sts evenly along the row = 85 (93, 101, 111, 125, 143) sts.
Switch to large needles.
Work in stockinette stitch until piece measures 40.5 (40.5, 40.5, 42, 42, 42) cm.
Bind off for armholes 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4) sts on each side = 81 (89, 95, 105, 117, 135) sts.**

Only for size 2/3XL and 4/5XL:

1st row (facial side): 2 faces., 2 faces together. left, knit to last 4 sts, k2tog. right, k2.
2nd row: purl 2, purl 2 together, purl to last 4 sts, purl 2 together. behind the back wall, 2 purl.
3rd row: knit as 1st row.

For all sizes:
1st row (facial side): 2 faces., 2 faces together. left, knit to last 4 sts, k2tog. right, k2.
Rep last 2 rows – 23 (21, 23, 16, 16, 8) times = 33 (33, 35, 35, 37, 37) sts.
Slip sts onto extra needle.

Before: knit as a back between **-**.

Only for size 2/3XL and 4/5XL
1st row (facial side): 2 faces., 2 faces together. left, knit to last 4 sts, k2tog. right, k2.
2nd row: purl 2, purl 2 together, purl to last 4 sts, purl 2 together. behind the back wall, 2 purl.
Repeat the last 2 rows 4-14 times.
Then repeat the 1st row 1 more time = (95, 73) loops.
Knit a row with purl stitches.

For sizes M, L, XL, 2/3XL and 4/5XL only:
1st row (facial side): 2 faces., 2 faces together. left, knit to last 4 sts, k2tog. right, k2.
2nd row: purl 2, purl 2 together, purl to last 4 sts, purl 2 together. behind the back wall, 2 purl.
3rd row: knit as 1st row.
4th row: knit with purl loops.
Rep last 4 rows - (1, 1, 5, 3, 2) times = (77, 83, 69, 71, 55) sts.

For all sizes:
1st row (facial side): 2 faces., 2 faces together. left, knit to last 4 sts, k2tog. right, k2.
2nd row: knit with purl loops.
Rep last 2 rows – 15 (13, 15, 8, 8, 0) times = 49 (49, 51, 51, 53, 53) sts.
Neck:
1st row (facial side): 2 faces., 2 faces together. to the left, 10 persons., 2 persons together. right, rotate work.
2nd row: out. loops.

Track. row: purl 2
Close loops.

From the right side, remove the central 17 (17, 19, 19, 21, 21) neck loops on an additional knitting needle, connect a new skein of yarn, knit 2 faces together. left, knit to last 4 sts, k2tog. right, k2.
Track. row: purl. loops.
Continue dec 1 st at neck side with dec raglan as before until 4 sts remain on needle.
Track. row (wrong side): purl. loops.
Track. Row: K2 together. to the left, 2 persons together. right = 2 loops.
Track. row: purl 2
Close loops.

Sleeve: With smaller needles, cast on 38 (38: 42: 42: 46: 46) sts.
Knit with an elastic band 2 * 2 - 6 cm.
Simultaneously inc 3 sts evenly along last row of rib from wrong side = 41 (41, 45, 45, 49, 49) sts.
Switch to large needles.
Knit in stockinette stitch for 6 rows.
Inc 1 st on each side on next row, then every 6m (4m, 4m, 4m, 4m, 4m) row = 67 (59, 63, 81, 83, 85) sts.

Only for sizes M, L:
Continue inc on every 6th row until you have (73, 77) sts on needle.

All Sizes: Work in stockinette stitch until piece measures 43 (44.5, 44.5, 42, 40.5, 40.5) cm.
For armholes cast off on each side 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4) loops = 63 (69, 71, 75, 75, 77) loops.
1st row (facial side): 2 faces., 2 faces together. left, knit to last 4 sts, k2tog. right, k2.
2nd row: purl 2, purl 2 together, purl to last 4 sts, purl 2 together. behind the back wall, 2 purl.
3rd row: knit as 1st row.
4th row: out. loops.
Rep 4 rows 2 (3, 2, 2, 0, 1) times = 45 (45, 53, 57, 69, 65) sts.
1st row (facial side): 2 faces., 2 faces together. left, knit to last 4 sts, k2tog. right, k2.
2nd row: out. loops.
Rep 2 rows 17 (17, 21, 22, 28, 26) times = 9 (9, 9, 11, 11, 11) sts.
Slip stitches onto extra needle.

Collar: sew raglan seams.
With smaller needles, knit 9 (9, 9, 11, 11, 11) loops of the left sleeve, knit 1 central loop; pick up 19 stitches along the left side of the front neck, knit 17 (17, 19, 19, 21, 21) faces. front neck loops with an additional knitting needle; pick up 19 loops along the right side of the front neck; Knit 9 (9, 9, 11, 11, 11) sts of right sleeve, dec 1 center st; knit 33 (33, 35, 35, 37, 37) back neck sts from additional knitting needle, dec 2 sts at the same time = 102 (102, 106, 110, 114, 114) sts.
Starting from the second row, knit with an elastic band 2 * 2 - 9 rows.
Switch to large needles.
Continue knitting with an elastic band until a height of 23 cm.
Close the loops with an elastic band.

Assembly: sew the sides and seams of the sleeves.
Sew the collar seam.

Let's learn to knit raglan sweaters from the top, quickly and beautifully.
Threads can be any, both plain and sectional, here to your taste!
My strings are like this

I will knit for my son 9 years old

First you need to calculate the loops on the neck-
1-we knit a sample, and count how many loops are in one centimeter, I have 2.5 loops per 1 cm
2-then we measure the neck, in the place where the collar is planned, I have it 28 cm
3-now we are counting on the sprout (I say right away, the girls are not afraid, this is necessary !!!)

With a knitting density of 2.5 loops per 1 cm and a neck girth of 28 cm, 70 loops must be dialed on the knitting needles. (2.5 x 28) Each raglan strip consists of 2 loops. The remaining loops are divided into three equal parts - back, front, sleeves.
I have it 62: 3 = 20 + 20 + 22

We divide the resulting parts into front 20, back 20 and sleeves are 22 loops, which means that each will take 11 loops.

But the neck in our front is deeper than on the back, so we need to make an amendment.

1) so that the sleeve is not wide, you need to narrow it by 1.5 cm, while increasing the back and front. So 2.5 (density) is multiplied by 1.5 = 3 loops, which means that only 8 loops need to be added to the sleeve. and the front and back will become wider by 3 loops, it turns out back 23 and front 23

2) the sleeve loops are knitted in four steps and by the time all the sleeve loops are knitted, the number of back and front loops should be the same. To do this, it is necessary to take into account the loops that are added along the back of the ragged lines. For example, if the loops of each sleeve are knitted in 4 steps, then 4 loops will be added to each raglan line of the back, which means the number of loops on the back will increase by 8. Therefore, it is necessary to calculate so that at the beginning of work the front was wider than the back by 8 loops. In my example, subtract 4 loops from the back loops, adding them to the front loops.

Then on the back I will have 19 loops, and on the front 27.

4-now you can knit starting to pick up loops on the back, knit back and forth, gradually adding loops, I have 19p on my back,

then raglan loops - 2, be sure to double crochet before and after raglan loops !!!

then we move on to the sleeves, gradually adding this to me 3,2,2,1, (we distribute the loops in descending order and in 4 steps !!!)

again raglan loops - 2,

then we add loops on the front 1,1,1,1,2,3 and the central 9 loops. (distribute the loops in ascending order and in 7 steps !!!)

All the sprout is knitted, now we knit in a circle.

We knit the yoke to the height of the armhole, you can attach it to your blouse, you can measure it, but then you will need to distribute the loops on additional knitting needles.
Important!!! we knit one row by making crochets between raglan loops, we knit the second row by knitting this yarn, i.e. together from the inside of the row

I got 18 cm to the armhole, now we leave the sleeve loops on separate knitting needles

and like this on the model

How many centimeters to knit raglan can be seen from the table, but it is still advisable to try on a model in order to already know exactly how much to knit to the armhole !!!

Tied to desired length

switch to rubber

when the rubber band is tied, we begin to close the loops on this video

I did the same in pictures.
I just knitted the first loop of faces, then the trace goes from inside, in front of it we make a crochet from ourselves

knit a loop

yarn over through this loop

then the first loop of faces, stretch through the inside

trace a loop of faces, in front of it we make a crochet towards ourselves

knit a loop

we stretch this knitted person, through the crochet

then the loop remaining from the first broach, we stretch through the knitted loop

and so all the loops ..

and like this on the model

Let's move on to the sleeves:

we throw the loops on stocking needles (to knit without a seam, in a circle), tie a thread and raise the loops in the resulting seam so that we do not have a hole, I got 4 additional loops

then we need to cut them, through a row

here is the path

http://tamica.ru/page/kalkuljator-ravnomernogo-dob...li-ubavlenija-petel-obnovilsja
but you can calculate it yourself, I really don’t know if this is right, but I do it myself (the main thing is that it turns out):
1) we need to count how many loops on the fishing line, after reducing the additional loops 66p
2) then we measure the sleeve to the bottom 28cm and you can immediately subtract the length of the elastic band from this length 4cm = 24cm
3) measure the wrist 15 cm, multiply cm by the number of loops in 1 cm -2.5, we get the desired number of loops on the wrist 38p
4) from the loops on the fishing line we subtract the loops on the wrist 66p - 38, we get how many loops we need to remove 28p
5) divide the remaining length of the sleeve by the number of loops on the wrist and get how many centimeters we need to decrease the loops, translate them into rows of 24 cm: 28p = 0.8cm and I got that after 3 rows you need to make reductions (rows of reductions are also considered)

We knit the sleeve to the desired length, go to the rubber band and close the loops in the same way as on the body of the sweater.

knit the second in the same way

Now let's move on to the collar:

we tie the thread anywhere, on my back, in front of the sleeve and begin to pick up loops

/ 21.09.2016 at 10:52

Hello my dear!

In this detailed master class, I want to introduce you to one of the ways how to knit a raglan from above. As an example, consider knitting from the neck of a children's blouse with a raglan sleeve entirely without seams.

Unfortunately, now this method of knitting is not used so often. And in vain, since knitting sweaters in this way has a number of advantages:

1. The product does not need to be sewn! And in addition to saving time and effort on stitching, the product without seams is very suitable for children's clothing - no extra hard scars.
2. When knitting from the neck from top to bottom, you can try on a thing at any time and adjust its size - the width and length of both the entire product and the sleeves.
3. You do not need to bother with knitting armholes and sleeves, the product lies well on the shoulders and does not gather around the armpits (as in models knitted evenly - without an armhole line).
4. It is very convenient for knitting children's things also in the sense that the thing can "grow" with the child. After all, children grow very quickly, and moreover, they grow mainly in height. If a children's sweater beautifully knitted by you from high-quality yarn suddenly becomes short, or the sleeves become short, you can easily dissolve the closed bottom loops and just knit them. And even if there is almost no such yarn left, come up with an option with multi-colored stripes or a jacquard pattern.

In the master class, for greater clarity, I specifically consider a variant of the model, which is mainly related to the simple design of the raglan line. If you master this knitting method, you can then apply it to knit sweaters of any size, with and.

Here we go?

The meaning of the raglan line (hereinafter I will write RL for short) is to uniformly add loops along it - from the neck to the line of the armpits. As a rule, after one row, 1 loop should be added on each side along each of the four RLs, that is, in total, after 1 row, due to ragged lines, 8 loops should be added per row.

In the method that I will show in this MK, 2 loops will be added on both sides of the RL - a total of 16 loops in a row every 3 rows (in every 4th row), which is the same for the total number of added loops , which is 8 loops through a row. The method is as follows: in each 4th row in the face of the work, you need to knit 5 from 3 loops (front, yarn over, front, yarn over, front). These fans come in pairs, one on each side of the details of the back, front and sleeves, and in contact with each other form this RL:

• Note: At the junction of the fans, small holes are obtained in the form of an openwork. If you want to use the same RL, but without openwork, then you can insert an additional 1 loop between the fans and knit it with either the wrong side or the front stitch.

Getting started and the top of the product

I will conduct a master class on a specific example of a simple model of a children's sweater and with a specific calculation of loops. I will get a small blouse for a baby about 1 year old. But for work I used thin yarn "Pekhorka - Children's Caprice" and circular knitting needles 2.5 mm. If you take thicker yarn and knitting needles, then with the same number of loops and rows you will get a larger product. Focus on your measurements and.

In this MK, I will not dwell on how to calculate loops for knitting raglan from the neck, since this is a topic in which this is described in detail. Here the goal is to show the process itself.

So, we collect 52 loops, of which: 24 loops on the back, 10 loops on the sleeves (10 x 2 = 20 p.), And further, ATTENTION: we don’t dial loops for the front, only loops for two of its radars – this is 3 x 2 = 6 loops,+2 edge loops.

We do not collect loops for the front detail, because we will gradually add them along the edges in the process of knitting with air loops - to form a deepening of the neckline. If this is not done, then the product will “pull” back and sit badly! This is one of the mistakes knitters make when knitting raglan from the neck.

If you want to learn more about the formation of the neckline, then please look - I tried to explain there as best I could.

And now in detail on the rows:

1st row(front side of the work): edge, knit 5 out of three loops (this is a fan of the RL front), again knit 5 out of 3 loops (for the RL of the right sleeve), 4 front loops directly for the sleeve, knit 5 out of 3 loops ( RL sleeves on the other side), again from 3 loops 5 (this is already RL of the back), 18 front loops of the back, from 3 loops 5 (RL of the back on the other side), from 3 loops 5 (RL of the left sleeve ), 4 front loops of the sleeve, from 3 loops 5 (RL of the sleeve on the other side), from 3 loops 5 (RL of the front), edge - in this row we distributed the loops for parts and RL.

• Note 1: From 3 loops 5 for RL fans we knit like this: we insert the right knitting needle into 3 loops at once (photo 1) and at the same time we knit the front, yarn over, front, yarn over, front (photo 2) from these 3 loops. After that, we drop 3 loops from the left knitting needle, and on the right knitting needle, instead of 3 loops, we get 5 already:

And one more thing: if you knit purl loops in the purl rows in the classic way (I, as a representative of the old school, usually knit the "" purl loop), then you will have to insert the knitting needle into 3 loops at once under the front walls (as you usually knit facial), and not as shown in my photo.

• Note 2: as you understand, from the number of loops that we have for the back and sleeves, we subtracted 6 loops for the RL. In the same way, you need to do it in the case of performing other types of RL - the number of loops necessary for knitting them, subtract from the total number of loops for the back or sleeve, and knit the remaining loops with the main pattern. You can change the number of loops for the back and sleeves to suit your size.

After knitting the first row, loops for the RL, back and sleeves are distributed.

3rd row: knit an air loop at the beginning of the row with a crossed front loop, then all the front loops. At the end of the row, add 1 VP.

4th row: VP at the beginning of the row, knit with a purl crossed loop, then knit all the loops with purl, and at the end of the row add 2 VP already.

5th row: 2 VP, dialed in the previous row, knit with facial crossed loops, 4 facial (loops for the front), from 3 loops 5 (2 times in a row), 8 facial (sleeve loops), from 3 loops 5 (2 times) , 22 facial (back loops), from 3 loops 5 (2 times), 8 facial (sleeve loops), from 3 loops 5 (2 times), 4 facial (front loops), at the end of the row 2 VP.

This is what knitting looks like at the end of the 5th row. The outlined radar lines are already visible, and at the end of the row you see 2 VPs:

Now you can carry out a control loop count. The number of loops on the back and front should be equal. Now, after the 5th row, for the backrest in total (together with the RL loops) we have 32 loops, and for the shelves - 11 loops each. Therefore, for the shelves, you need to add 5 more loops to get 16 loops, and then there will be as many loops for the front as for the back (16 x 2 = 32 p.). Therefore, we knit further:

6th row: 2 VP at the beginning of the row, knit purl crossed, then all the loops are purl, at the end of the row 5 VP.

7th row: We knit 5 VPs with crossed front ones, then all the front loops, at the end of the row 5 VPs.

8th row: We knit 5 VP with crossed purl, then - all the loops are purl.

Now we have the same number of back and front loops, and there is no need to add air loops. We continue to knit simply in stocking stitch, at the same time doing the RL, as described above, and knitting the hem to get a chain-like edge (we remove the first, the last one is wrong).

Important Notes:

1. If you knit a product of a larger size, then you need to add loops for the front in accordance with your size and the desired depth of the neckline. So, after adding 2 VPs, in the next rows add 3 or 4 VPs each, you can add 3 VPs several times in a row, then a large number of loops to equal the number with the back - this all needs to be adjusted for each product and cutout individually.
2. If you plan to knit a one-piece fastener strap, then in addition to the front loops, you need to get more air loops on each side of the loop for the straps - loops of 5-6, and accordingly knit them already, like straps, performing welt loops on one of them. In my version of MK, I suggest that the straps be tied separately later.
3. If you plan to knit a product without a fastener, like a sweater, or a pullover, then after the number of loops in front and back is equal, you need to connect the ends of the row and continue on

Continuation of knitting back and front

Next, we continue to knit, performing the addition of loops with the help of the RL, until we reach the line of the armpits. You can determine this either by trying on the product for the future owner, or guided by the dimensions of the pattern - we look at the length of the RL (in my case it is 16 cm), as well as the width of the back-front and sleeves.

Then we proceed as follows. On the front side of the work we knit the loops of the front (left shelf) inclusive with the front loops of the RL front loops (we no longer do additions from 3 loops 5). Next, we remove the loops of the sleeve with the loops of its RL inclusive using a knitting needle on a thick thread of a contrasting color, we tie the ends of the thread.

We continue to knit back loops. Having knitted to the second sleeve, we re-shoot its loops on a thread in the same way, and then we knit the row to the end with the loops of the right shelf. Now we only have back and front loops on the knitting needles:

We continue to knit the main “body” of the jacket evenly to the length you need. As I already wrote at the beginning of the article, it is not difficult to determine the length now - just try on this, for now, sleeveless jacket. Fortunately, both circular knitting needles with a flexible connection, and the fact that the loops of the sleeves are assembled on an elastic thread, make it possible to do this without difficulty. Well, if there is no one nearby to try on, we check the sizes according to the pattern.

My dears, when I prepared this MK for you, I did not set out to knit some super model. On the contrary, I wanted it to be as simple as possible, so that it would be more visual for beginners. And then I “carried away”, and I decided to embellish this “training model” somehow. I came up with a pattern that would be combined with the front surface, and at the same time contained elements of fans from a raglan line. This is what came out of it:

Today, hand-knitted things have become very fashionable. It is worth noting that the easiest way to make models with a raglan sleeve. Knitting from top to bottom, you can knit both a dress and or a cardigan.

The model is sewn - a profitable option for a "growing" little thing

You can knit on top, then do the same back and front. And after that, put all the details together and sew. This is one of the simplest ways of knitting things, since the master does not have to suffer with knitting the armhole and sleeve hem, and then sewing in the latter.

It should also be noted the practicality of knitting this model from above. If it is necessary to lengthen the part, only the last row closing the loops is dissolved. Next, the master simply ties the desired value, and the thing becomes longer.

That is why raglan-style things are so often knitted on top for children. Even if the baby has grown up and the blouse has become not only short, but also narrow, you can knit the insert strips and sew them into the side seams of the product. Moreover, these stripes may well be of a different color and even a different texture - now combined things are fashionable.

Pros and cons of knitting from above in a circle

But more often, knitters use in their models the method of knitting from above round, from the neck to the bottom with one thread. This option does not include stitching parts, so it is much easier to perform.

The practicality of such a product is also in the fact that the yarn practically does not break. Therefore, if you want to dissolve the finished product and make, for example, a beret from a former blouse, it will not leave much difficulty, because the thread will be practically without knots and breaks.

However, there are some downsides to this type of work. When making a raglan model with knitting needles from above, the master must carefully calculate everything in advance. After all, even a small mistake to correct in the course of work will not be possible. This is for stitched models, you can remove the excess fabric in the side seams. Here, everything will remain in sight. And all the fixes are in one thing: having dissolved, you need to start executing the model from scratch.

Correct calculation is the key to success!

Before knitting a raglan with knitting needles from above, you need to make a small piece of fabric from the selected yarn with the pattern that you plan to use in the model. Usually a sample of 20-30 rows with a width of 15-20 loops is enough.

So, the sample for the calculation is completed. Now you should measure the resulting width. Let's say the craftswoman scored 20 loops on the knitting needles. The width of the sample turned out to be 8 cm. We make the calculation:

• Subtract from the number of loops 2 edge. 20 - 2 = 18 (sts).
• Divide the resulting number by the width. 18: 8 = 2.25 (loops in one centimeter).
• We measure the girth of the neck. And it should be remembered that the head should easily pass into the cutout. Let's say we chose a girth of 40 cm (knitting tends to stretch a little, so the head will easily squeeze into such a neck).
• We multiply the knitting density (number of loops in one centimeter) by the girth of the neck. 40 x 2.25 = 90 (loops). This will be the initial number of loops that should be typed on the knitting needles to complete the first row if the model has a raglan sleeve with knitting needles on top.

Calculation for a model made under the throat and without a fastener

Now you should calculate in which places you will need to make additions for raglan.

To do this, the total number of loops is divided by 3. In this example, it looks like this. 90: 3 = 30 (loops). This will be the number of stitches in both sleeves. If you get a fractional number, for example, 22.5, then you can ignore 0.5 loops. Usually only the whole number is taken as a basis. In this case, it will be 22, especially since 22 is easily divisible by 2, since the model will have two sleeves. If the master had 23.5 loops, then it would be more convenient to increase the number to 24.

By dividing the result by 2, the master will receive the number of loops in the initial row for each sleeve. In a specific case, 30: 2 = 15 (loops).

The remaining loops will go to knitting the back and front, 30 loops in each section, respectively.

Making additions when knitting raglan from above

So, let's consider the simplest version of the work. This is knitting raglan with knitting needles from above round under the throat without a fastener. To perform it, you need to dial the required number of loops on the knitting needles and tie a "pipe" of sufficient length with an elastic band. Then the addition of loops begins to make a model "raglan on top" with knitting needles. A master class of this process will help the novice master to become a real pro in this matter.

• The required number of loops is typed on the knitting needles.
• The first row is knitted with the selected pattern.
• At the same time, the loops on which additions will be made are calculated. These places are marked with colored rubber bands or thread. To make it more accurate, half the number of the back is laid off from the beginning of the row, that is, in our example it will be 15 loops. A rubber band is put on the knitting needle.
• Next, the beginning of the sleeve is performed - 15 loops are knitted and an elastic band is put on.
• Now lay off the front loops - 30 pieces. Mark this place again.
• Sleeve - again 15 loops.
• From the second row, the addition is already beginning. You can simply yarn over around the marked loop. You can knit three from the loop (crochet, front, yarn) or make 5 out of 3. This is how the “bird track” pattern is knitted.
• The third row and all subsequent odd ones are done with a simple knit, where the yarn is knitted as a separate loop.
• The knitting algorithm for the second row applies to all subsequent even rows.

Here is presented to help the novice master, who undertook to knit a raglan model on top with knitting needles, a diagram that clearly demonstrates the beginning of the addition process.

Calculation of the increase in loops in the armpit area

And here is the top part of the model completed. The product reaches the shoulder joint, which means that knitting raglan with knitting needles from above passes into another phase. It's time to transfer the loops intended for knitting the sleeves to spare knitting needles or remove them to twine or linen elastic. It should be tied in a ring so as not to miss the loops.

With the main thread, the master continues knitting in a circle, moving from the back to the front. In places where the back ends, you should dial additional loops on the knitting needles. Their number is calculated in this way.

The girth of the chest is multiplied by the density of knitting. For example, this size is 92 cm. We remember that the density of our knitting is 2.25 loops in one centimeter. 92 x 2.25 = 207 (loops).

The final stage of work on the model

Now the master knits in a circle with the selected pattern until the product is the desired length. After that, you should tie an elastic band or just close the loops - it all depends on the chosen model. At the end of the work, the thread breaks, is fixed, and its tip is hidden from the inside.

The loops of one of the sleeves are transferred to the knitting needles. The main thread comes into play. Knitting is carried out in a circle. Near the elbow bend, you can slightly reduce the width of this part of the product. When the sleeve reaches the required length, they knit an elastic band or simply close the row. Do the same with the second sleeve.

Raglan with a slit at the front of the neck

It is known that the heads of babies do not always easily fit into sweaters under the neck. Therefore, when making a raglan style with knitting needles on top for children, the master often chooses a model with a slit, thereby increasing the neckline.

The calculation of the total number of loops is carried out according to the scheme described above, adding 2 to the result. The process itself is no longer circular, but with the rotation of the product. It is possible to trim the collar of the neck with a stripe of the "tangled" pattern.

This drawing is pretty simple. This is an alternation of facial and purl loops. Only over the front ones should be knitted purl, and vice versa. That is, it turns out, as it were, an algorithm for knitting an elastic band, but with confused loops. Hence the title of this drawing.

Moreover, along the edges of the rows, it is also best to knit the strips with a "tangle" pattern. In principle, this is the only difference, because the model is knitted in almost the same way as the raglan on top with knitting needles, the master class of which was described above.

After the strap reaches the required length, knitting becomes circular. The algorithm of work further fully corresponds to that described above.

Raglan jacket with a through fastener

The difference between this model with a sweater on a placket at the collar is that the row does not join into a ring. The whole jacket is knitted in rows with the turn of the product. And to calculate the total number of loops, not only 2 edge loops are added to the result, but also the number of plank loops (1 time).

For example, at the very beginning, we found out that for a regular raglan from above, it is required to cast on 90 loops around the top. Now let's adjust their number in accordance with our model. We also make a jacket with raglan knitting needles on top on a through fastener, which means that you need to add 2 hem and plank - where the buttons and loops will be placed. Usually it is 7-9 loops. 90 + 2 + 9 = 101 (loop).

The bar itself is shaped symmetrically on both sides of the row. Moreover, on the bar on which it is planned to make loops, the master knits "holes" at the same distance. To do this, you can knit 2 loops together in one row in one row, and on the wrong side make a yarn over in this place. In the next row, the yarn is knitted in the usual way. The result is a "hole" for the loop.

If the buttons are large, you need to close 2-4 loops in the right places, and on the wrong side of this row, add the number of previously closed loops in the same place. Then the hole for the loop will be larger.

Knowing how to knit raglan on top and calculate the number of loops for work, it is quite possible to model other product options. Experienced craftswomen use knitting braids along the front, make slots for pockets, make collars of various configurations and make necks of various shapes.