How to crochet an increase description. Basic techniques for knitting amigurumi

In this lesson we will look at the possibility of changing the number of loops in a row using the example of a single crochet and a single crochet.

So let's get started. Let's start with a single crochet.

To reduce the number of single crochets, insert the hook into the loop of the previous row (Fig. 1.1), pull out the loop (Fig. 1.2), then insert the hook again, but into the next loop of the previous row and pull out the loop again (Fig. 1.3). All loops on the hook (there are three of them) are knitted together (Figure No. 1).

Figure No. 1 - Reducing the number of single crochets

Now let's consider increasing the number of single crochets; to do this, insert the hook into the loop of the previous row, pull out the loop and knit a single crochet. Then insert the hook into the same loop again and knit a single crochet. This is how you knit as many single crochets as required according to the pattern (Figure No. 2).

Figure No. 2 - Increasing the number of single crochets

Let's move on to the double crochet.

To reduce the number of double crochets, yarn over, insert the hook into the loop of the previous row and pull out the loop, knit one loop and yarn over, then yarn over again and insert the hook into the next loop of the previous row. First we knit one loop and yarn over, then the remaining three loops (Figure No. 3).

Figure No. 3 - Reducing the number of single crochets

To increase the number of double crochets, double crochet, insert the hook into the loop of the previous row, and pull out a new loop. They knit a double crochet, then make a double crochet and insert the hook into the same loop, pull the loop again and knit a second double crochet; This is how you knit as many stitches as required according to the pattern (Figure No. 4).

A knitted toy consists not only of chain loops and single crochets. The round and oval shape is given to it using increases and decreases. How do we knit an increase? We simply knit two sc in one loop, thereby increasing the number of loops. How do we knit a decrease? We start like a regular sc - we grab the thread and pull it through the next loop, and now we grab the thread in the same way in the second loop. Those. There are three threads on the hook. Through all three at once we stretch the main one. Those. we immediately knitted two loops (see photo!).

There are several simple rules for knitting amigurumi that will help you make the toy as neat and harmonious as possible.
1. Select a smaller hook for the threads so that the fabric is dense. Any holes (especially if the yarn is dark and the filling is white) spoil the appearance of any toy.
2. According to the rules, amigurumi are knitted in a spiral and using two loops. Occasionally, the pattern indicates that a particular row should be knitted using the back or front loops (this is done for greater stability of the toy or for the convexity of individual parts of the body). But often needlewomen knit toys in one loop as a matter of principle. Oddly enough, this helps make the toy more miniature.
3. You need to knit tightly enough, but not so tightly that you can’t stick the needle in when stitching the individual parts.
4. It’s better to stuff toys with silicone, padding polyester, synthetic padding polyester or holofiber, but not with cotton wool (or even worse, with leftover threads and shreds).
5. Most often, all parts of the body are knitted separately and then sewn together. There are rare exceptions when the head and torso or torso and legs are knitted together.
6. It is better to sew body parts with the same thread that was used for knitting. If it is too thick, you can divide it into several parts. This will make the seam as invisible and neat as possible. You can also use strong denim or dental floss. It is important to remember that the stronger the better.
7. The ends of the threads must be hidden in the middle of the toy. They should not be short, as over time they can come out, which will ruin the appearance and unravel the fabric. Therefore, amigurumi.com.ua advises you to pay special attention to this!
8. Often, various fillers and weights are used for the limbs - hemispheres, balls, beads, plastic ovals or circles (for stability). For eyes - beads of different sizes, purchased eyes for toys, leftover felt, leather, fabric. The eyes can also be knitted or embroidered. For noses, you can take buttons, pieces of leather, fabric. You can also knit or embroider. For antennae - fishing line, wire or thread rubbed with wax.
9. You can tint faces and other parts of the body with regular cosmetics or acrylic paints. However, this must be done very carefully so as not to spoil the appearance of the toy.
10. Assembling a toy is a rather complicated process. This requires patience and experience. If the amigurumi can initially stand or sit, it is very important to find the center of gravity and balance the toy before assembly so that it can stand or sit well (or both). To do this, use pins: pin the legs, arms and check whether the bear or bunny is standing confidently enough. Only then sew on the body parts!
11. Usually the body of the toy is stuffed quite tightly, but the head should spring well and not be heavy so that amigurumi do not fall (they usually have a disproportionately large head anyway).
12. It is better to knit clothes for amigurumi from yarn that is thinner than the one from which the toy itself is knitted. If your doll or bear is up to 10 cm tall, then it is ideal to use iris for light clothes.

We all learn from mistakes. And in 90% of cases - on our own. Those who start knitting amigurumi also rarely manage to avoid blots. There's nothing to be ashamed of. Moreover, this does not mean that toys that are not tied according to the rules are less beautiful, cute and desirable. But you should always strive for perfection.
We have described the mistakes that occur most often when knitting amigurumi. We hope they will help you make your tiny animals and dolls even more perfect and perfect.

Attention! The headlines contain errors, not advice.

1. From complex to simple
Beginners often grab complex toys because they are more “alive” and cute. It is not right. You always need to start simple! From a small amigurumi with a minimum of details. This will help you understand the principle of knitting, try decreases and increases, and get used to the threads and crochet. If it doesn’t work out, it’s not such a shame to disband and start again. Of course, you may have natural talent (or you are already an experienced knitter) and it is quite possible to knit a complex toy the first time, but the rule “from simple to complex” is a very good one.

2. We knit loops on one wall
Amigurumi is knitted on both sides of the loop. It is clear that if you knit only the front or back wall, the toy will also work, but a not very aesthetic scar will appear on the fabric, which spoils the appearance of the product. It should not exist (unless otherwise indicated in the diagram). Toys tied only by one side of the loop are more elongated and thinner, i.e. They will be somewhat vaguely similar to the original.

Look at photo 1: these bears are knitted according to the same pattern. However, the right one is behind the back wall of the loop, and the left one is behind both. The scar is clearly visible on the right. Moreover, he is thinner and longer, which for a toy is more of a disadvantage than an advantage.

3. Knit counterclockwise
Yes, at first we really knit counterclockwise, but after a couple of rows the product needs to be turned out and continued knitting clockwise. This is exactly the front side of the amigurumi (i.e. the starting thread should remain inside). You can easily recognize the wrong side by these lines in each row ------. Why is it bad to confuse the back and front sides of knitting? Imagine that you have to sew a ball out of fabric. And you accidentally sewed it inside out. What will happen? Ball with seams on top. Not very pretty, is it? Increases and decreases also form a kind of seam - they are slightly more convex on the wrong side than regular single crochets. Therefore, these very “seams” stripes will be visible on the heads and other parts of the body of bears, bunnies and dolls. Therefore, it is better to knit clockwise, turning the fabric inside out at the very beginning.

Look at photo 2. This is the front side of the amigurumi. This is exactly what the body parts of the toy should look like. Look at photo 3. This is the wrong side. Here there is a starting thread and dashes, which were described above.

4. On the decrease we skip one loop
There is such advice somewhere on the Internet. But it's not right. If you are knitting a decrease, then you need to not just skip a loop, knitting only the next one, but thread the thread through both loops and knit together. This way you can avoid holes through which the stuffing will show through.

5. Holes in the canvas do not spoil the appearance
They even spoil it a lot! A brown bear with white padding showing through its paws, body and head does not look entirely aesthetically pleasing. And even if you are knitting a completely white toy, it is better that the toy is as dense as possible. So that none of your friends can guess what's inside. To do this, it is important to take a hook that is thinner than the yarn. Those. If you usually crochet acrylic with a No. 3 or larger crochet hook, then hooks that are smaller than No. 2 are best suited for amigurumi. For "iris" - No. 0.6-1. If during the knitting process you see significant holes in the fabric, urgently change the hook to a smaller size and try to knit more tightly.

6. We do not correct mistakes during the knitting process.
It is always a pity to unravel the fabric if there is quite a lot of knitting, and the mistake is only noticed now. But believe me, if you continue to knit, you may have to unravel even more. If you leave it as it is, the toy may turn out to be “author’s” (that is, not similar to the original). Or you will always remember this mistake when looking at the toy. Therefore, it is better to fix everything at once.

7. Even cotton wool is suitable for stuffing
No, cotton wool will not work. It cakes, so the toy will very quickly lose its appearance. In addition, cotton wool absorbs moisture very well, but the worst thing is that it does not spring, and the toy will be oaky and heavy. Believe me, you probably have padding polyester or silicone at home. This could be stuffing from an old jacket or an unnecessary small decorative pillow purchased from a store. You can also use stuffing from a cheap Chinese toy.

Look at photo 4: this is the filler most often used by needlewomen (silicone). You can buy it at a furniture store.

Knitting amigurumi patterns is very easy. It is much more difficult to understand the circuit itself. Let's consider three options - a verbal description in Russian, diagrams in tables and figures, and Japanese diagrams in pictures. Let's start from the simple to the complex.

Descriptions in Russian

These are the simplest and most accurate descriptions. For beginners, it is best to start with them. Fortunately, on the Internet there are not only sensible descriptions of beautiful toys, but also detailed master classes with photographs and explanations.

1. amigurumi ring (it can be knitted in several ways, but amigurumi.com.ua suggests you start with 2 ch and knit 6 sc in the second from the hook, after which you can pull up the starting thread to close the hole if it suddenly appears)

2. a row of air loops, which is transformed into an oval by knitting circular rows. Therefore, if it is written: “2 ch and 6 sc in the second loop from the hook” - this is an ordinary circle, and if it says: “Cast 6 ch, knit 4 sc, starting from the second loop from the hook...” - this is an oval (it comes from circular knitting on top and bottom of a chain of air loops). The second method is most often used for legs and less often for arms (but the head, body, and other parts can be knitted in the same way).

When the amigurumi ring is ready (most often this is the 1st row, although sometimes needlewomen consider the first two loops as the 1st row, and 6 sc as the 2nd), we move on. It is very important to pay attention to the numbers that are indicated at the end of the row in brackets. This is the total number of loops that should be obtained. For example:

1st row: cast on 2 ch and knit 6 sc in the second loop from the hook.

2nd row: * increase *. Repeat * 6 times.

Those. Row 1 is an amigurumi ring. 2nd row - six increases (6 sbn, which we already had + 6 increases = 12 sbn). Those. in the second row there should be 12 loops, as indicated by the number in brackets.

The third row we knit increases in every second loop (i.e., again 6 increases: 12 + 6 = 18).

However, it is worth paying attention to the fact that in some descriptions the first row may not be taken into account.

Beginners have the most problems when it comes to knitting in the round without increasing or decreasing. Often these rows are designated by needlewomen as “no changes”. This means that there should be the same number of loops in the row as in the previous one (which is additionally indicated by the number in brackets). But many understand this as “we knit in the same way as the previous row,” i.e. with allowances. As a result, instead of a rounded part, you get... a wave or a flower. To avoid confusion, recently on the website we began to indicate in the pattern instead of “no changes” - “sc in each loop in a circle.” Those. row without increases or decreases.

Be sure to use a marker when knitting (it can be a pin or a colored thread that will mark the beginning of the row). Thanks to it, you will never lose the beginning and end of a series, you will not get confused in the numbers, and, accordingly, you will save yourself time.

There are also difficulties with marking repetitions. These can be parentheses or asterisks. For example:

3rd row: * 1 sc, increase *. Repeat * 6 times.

3rd row: (1 sc, increase) 6 times.

These are two variants of writing the same thing and means that a combination of one single crochet and one increase must be knitted 6 times.

Schemes in tables and numbers

Such tables are also not uncommon. Reading them is more difficult, but quite doable. True, a little experience in amigurumi knitting will not hurt here. The table consists of several columns - the number of the row and the number of loops that should ultimately be obtained (look at photo 1). Those. if the piece starts with the classic 6 sc, then then (most often) the number of loops in each subsequent row will increase by 6 loops: 12, 18, 24, 30... If knitting starts with 7 loops, then - 14, 21, 28 , 35 respectively (i.e. 7 increases per row). However, check all the details with the photo, since the leg will most likely start with a chain of air loops.

Complex details, such as legs or a muzzle, are knitted slightly differently. Those. in these cases, most often there cannot be uniform increases and decreases. For the leg, decreases are knitted on one side only, which helps shape the toe. If this is the face of a cat or a hare, then the increases will only go along the top of the nose to give the correct shape. If you have knitted similar details, you will cope with this task. But if suddenly it doesn’t work out, you can ask for advice here.

Japanese patterns in pictures

These are the most complex schemes. But you can also learn to read and understand them. Of course, you are unlikely to be able to learn hieroglyphs, but knitting a toy is easy.

Japanese schemes are very similar to the schemes in the tables that we looked at above. Those. The Japanese give the diagram itself in symbols and a sign next to it: the first column is the number of rows (read from bottom to top), the second is the total number of loops in the row. It is important to use both a table and a diagram in symbols here. Most often, Japanese toys are quite simple and they increase and decrease evenly. However, to avoid errors, it is better to check this according to the diagram. A cross in the pattern is a sc, a cross in a tick is an increase, a cross in a house is a decrease.

Patterns can also be multi-colored (when a part of the body is knitted in two or even three colors). This is marked in the diagram in symbols.

How to recognize which part of the body is which? Check with the picture of the toy itself. Most often, the toy is knitted from the head - this is the largest detail. The legs and tails are the smallest and thinnest. If you connect all the details according to the diagrams, then in the process it will not be so difficult to figure out what goes where. But if you are not confident in your abilities, try searching on the Internet for translations of Japanese diagrams - most of them are already in Russian.

Look at photo 2. The number 1 marks the diagram in symbols. Here are rows with increases (6 rows). Number 2 marks the part that goes without increases (sc in a circle - 3 rows) and then - with decreases (4 rows). The number 3 indicates the row numbers in the table; they must be counted from bottom to top. The number 4 is the number of loops in each row. Those. Based on this diagram, we draw the conclusion: you need to start with an amigurumi ring, in which there are 7 sc, then we make uniform increases (7 in a row). From the 7th to the 9th row we knit sc in a circle, starting from the 10th we make 7 decreases per row.

How to widen or narrow knitting? The answer is obvious - you need to add or subtract stitches or loops. This can be done at the edges of the row, or inside it. Increases and decreases at the edges are needed if you need to knit a flat fabric of any non-rectangular shape. By changing the number of columns within a row, various convex elements of clothing (for example, darts or folds) are mainly obtained, but flat ones (for example, corners) can also be obtained. In addition, increases and decreases within a row are necessary when knitting in the round, but this will be discussed in a separate chapter.

Increases within a row

5 double crochets in one loop, it turns out to be a right angle

second row of corner

Let's deal with the additions first. Inside the row they are made simply: several stitches are knitted in the same loop - as many as needed according to the plan. Sometimes the extra column is replaced with a loop - then a hole is obtained. This is often done when knitting openwork fabrics or to decorate solid knitted seams, which are obtained when the increases in subsequent rows are located on top of each other. But there are a huge number of ways of mutual arrangement of columns and loops in places of increases. Take paper and pencil and see for yourself (hopefully you've made sure to draw diagrams of all the patterns you've connected and have had enough practice).

version of the corner with holes (loops instead of 2 and 4 posts out of five)

2 double crochets in one loop

in the next row we insert the hook between the columns knitted in one loop

hook and pull the thread without tightening the knitting

Draw a row of double crochets. Now think about how we can knit 3 stitches in several rows in a row over the same place in the middle of the row so that the pattern turns out beautiful, symmetrical? Draw how you imagine it (just don’t say “I can’t” - try it and see for yourself that you can do it). Now do the same for four (this is more difficult, because four is an even number, and the seam will have a “double middle”) and five stitches. In the last example, try replacing some of the increase stitches with loops, draw them in the same way as they are knitted, i.e. near the top end of the stick-post. Do you see how the holes turn out?

Try the same for two columns. In the first row it will be easy - just knit them in one loop, but here’s what to do in

2 columns connected from the hole between two columns of the previous row

small angle resulting from the increase

next row? Where is the midpoint between the two bars? She is between them. You gradually learn the variety of bases for knitting: you already know that you can knit a stitch on two half-loops, you can on each of them, you can crochet a stitch from the face or from the back, or you can insert the hook between two posts. And this is not a complete list. When knitting a stitch between two stitches, note that the thread, as when knitting convex stitches, travels a longer path, and do not tighten the knitting.

Have you tried it? Compare the size of the angles that are obtained in each case: the fewer columns are added, the more obtuse the angle. Now knit everything you drew. In the future, you will be able to choose how many columns and how to tie them in order to get the increase you need.

Increases around the edge

at the end of the row, another double crochet is added to the last double crochet at the same base

we cast on the lifting loops, make a yarn over...

this is how the obliquely expanding edge turned out

and we knit a stitch above the first stitch from the edge, where previously only the lifting loops were located, so that at the beginning of the row we have an additional stitch

Increases along the edge are made in different ways. In a simple case, to the last element of the row, another one is added (the same or another - experiment with this, depending on the size of the angle there may be different options) in the same loop. It doesn't make sense to add a lot - try it and you'll see why. Sometimes, if the next row needs to be made protruding above the previous row (like a balcony or cornice), then at the end of the previous row a chain of loops is knitted - the basis for this cornice (do not forget to add lifting loops to this chain). When you turn the fabric over to knit the next row, the chain will turn wrong side towards you - knit it that way, do not turn it over to the right side, otherwise it will be twisted.

But what to do if such a protrusion needs to be knitted not at the beginning of the next row, but at the end of the one

rectangular protrusion at the beginning of the row: cast on loops - the basis for it at the end of the previous row

and knit stitches on these additional loops - the ledge is ready

Which one are you knitting now? After all, there is nothing further to knit this row on, since the base columns have run out, i.e. previous row. How to continue it? In this case, you can knit the missing loops of the base at the same time as knitting the columns of the row on them.

This is done like this (let’s try it with double crochets as an example). You have connected the last column

protrusion at the end of the row: insert the hook into the base of the last column

pull out the thread - this will be the base loop for the first protruding column (i.e. we have a hook inserted into the base loop)

pull the thread from the base, as always, there are 3 loops on the hook

pull the thread through 2 loops

row, you have one loop on your hook. Yarn over to knit the next stitch, insert the hook into the base of the previous stitch (the last one in this row), hook the thread and pull out a loop as usual - this loop will be the base for the new stitch. Now look carefully at your knitting - the new base loop for the new stitch is put on the hook, but you can say it in another way - the hook is inserted into the base loop. It's much clearer that way, right? What to do next? Then we proceed in the same way as when knitting a double crochet: you have made a yarn over and the hook is inserted into the base loop, now you need to hook the thread and pull it through this loop, then hook the thread again and pull it through 2 loops on the hook, and then repeat this action. Everything as usual. The column is ready.

and again after 2 loops, completing the column

rectangular projection made of two posts

Here's a useful activity for your blanket - tie the corners for it, adding as many stitches on top of each other in the middle of the row to make a right angle. At the same time, find out this question. I give the answer, but first find it yourself: for single crochets - 3, single crochets - 5, etc. Start knitting from the inner edge of the corner - can you guess why? Tie one corner like this, and tie the second one, adding columns on the edge. Leave two corners so you can practice decreasing the columns later.

An increase is simply necessary when you knit a circle or a ball-shaped product.
To increase, you need to knit two single crochets in one loop.
For example, you need to connect a circle:

1 row. Take a hook and knit a chain of 5 VPs. We make a ring from the chain.

2nd row. We knit 6 sc into a ring (single crochet).

3rd row. We knit two sc in each loop. There are 6 increases in a row and a total of 6 + 6 = 12 RLS in a row.
(Increase) * 6 times = 12 p.
4 row. We make increases through the loop. There are 6 increases in a row and a total of 12+6=18 RLS in a row.
(RS, Increase) * 6 times = 18 p.
5 row. We make increases through two loops. There are 6 increases in a row and a total of 18+6=24 RLS in the row.
(2СБН, Increase) * 6 times = 24 p.
6th row. We make increases through three loops. There are 6 increases in a row and a total of 24 + 6 = 30 RLS in a row.
(3СБН, Increase) * 6 times = 30 p.

If you want a larger circle, then continue knitting. The algorithm, I hope you understand.

Decreases are necessary when you knit a circle or a ball-shaped product.
To decrease, you need to knit two stitches together.
How to make an invisible decrease:
1. Thread the hook into the loop:

2. Grab the working thread and thread it through the loop. You will have two loops on your hook:


That is, as if you are knitting a single crochet, just don’t knit it all the way. And immediately start knitting the following stitch:
3. Thread the hook into the next loop and grab the working thread. You will have three loops on your hook:


4. Thread the working thread through three loops on the hook at once:


Thus, we knitted two single crochets from two loops and got one loop. This is what the decrease looks like:

For high-quality crocheting of clothing and other items, you need to learn several ways to add and decrease stitches in a knitted fabric. The accuracy and angle of the edge depends on the choice of method for modeling the product.

Easily add edge posts

At the beginning or, respectively, at the end of the row, in the first or, respectively, last loop of the previous row, knit two or three single crochets.

Adding a large quantityloops around the edge

At the beginning of the row cast on the appropriate number of chain stitches, then make two chain stitches for lifting and knit double crochets over the cast-on chain of chain stitches, and then the entire row.

At the end of the row* make one yarn over, insert the hook into the bottom of the last stitch, grab the thread and pull out a loop, grab the thread again and knit one air loop. Then knit 2 times each of the 2 loops on the hook *. Repeat from * to *.

Adding two stitches within a row

Knit three stitches into one loop of the bottom row.

Adding a loop within a row

Knit two stitches into one loop of the bottom row.

Method 2: Between two stitches, cast on one air loop, into which you knit an additional stitch in the next row.

Simple decrease in stitches along the edge

At the beginning of the row perform a lifting loop, skip one loop of the bottom row and start knitting a new row from the second loop of the bottom row. Or method 2: perform a lifting loop, insert the hook into the first loop of the bottom row and pull the thread; then insert the hook into the second loop of the bottom row and also pull out the thread. Grab the thread again and knit all the loops on the hook (knit both loops in one go).

At the end of the row skip the penultimate loop and knit one single crochet into the last loop of the bottom row. Or method 2: insert the hook into the third loop of the bottom row from the edge and pull the thread, then insert the hook into the penultimate loop of the bottom row and also pull the thread. Grab the thread again and knit all three loops on the hook, then knit one single crochet into the last loop of the bottom row.

Decreasing one columndouble crochet around the edge At the beginning of the row, knit two chain stitches, skip one stitch of the bottom row and continue to knit a new row over the second stitch. At the end of the row, skip the penultimate stitch of the bottom row, then knit the last stitch into the last loop of the bottom row.

Decrease two columnsdouble crochet around the edge

At the beginning of the row, make one lifting loop, knit one single crochet into the first and second loops of the bottom row, then make another lifting loop and knit double crochets from the third loop of the bottom row. At the end of the row, knit a single crochet into the penultimate loop, and leave the last loop undone. Turn the product by casting on one air loop, skip a single crochet and start knitting double crochets from the second loop of the bottom row.

Decrease within a row

To decrease one or two loops inside a row, you should knit two or three stitches together, that is, with a common top.

Bevel

It is often necessary to smoothly bevel the edge or round the neck; to do this, it is necessary to gradually increase or decrease the height of the columns.