History of perfume brands. Famous fragrances from the house of Guerlain

Jacques Guerlain is the nephew of Aimé Guerlain, the son of Gabriel Guerlain, a representative of the third generation of an eminent family of perfumers. He was the creator of many Guerlain fragrances that are considered classics, sold today and highly regarded in the perfume industry.

Jacques Guerlain had real talent. Perfumer Ernest Beaux admitted that when he mixed notes of vanilla, he created the scent of caramel, and when Jacques Guerlain did this, the legendary Shalimar was born, which became one of Guerlain's pioneering scents and a classic in perfume history.

Jacques Guerlain began creating fragrances under the guidance of his uncle at the age of sixteen. In 1906, he independently developed his first perfume, Après l’Ondée. Jacques has always been very organized and disciplined. These qualities helped him become the third master perfumer in family company. He talked little about himself and rarely gave interviews, preferring to spend his time in the laboratory. Some of his works, created for dignitaries and celebrities, have been forgotten, but many remain famous to this day.

Besides his work, Jacques Guerlain loved opera, impressionist art, horse racing and his garden. He drew inspiration from music, literature and painting. He had the opportunity to realize all his ideas and boldly follow his instinct. He was a perfectionist, so he tried to bring any fragrance to perfection, to make the composition as complete as possible. The most common notes in his aromas were Provencal herbs, amber, leather and musk. His last job became the Ode fragrance, released in 1955. The perfume was composed by Jacques in collaboration with his grandson, eighteen-year-old Jean-Paul Guerlain, whom he taught in the art of perfumery. Jean-Paul Guerlain became the last master perfumer in the family and proved himself a worthy successor to his grandfather.

The story begins when Pierre Francois Guerlain was born, who, having trained as a chemist, opened his own pharmacy business. It was this small store that produced the first bottles Guerlain perfume with the poetic title “Soul of Flowers”. Buyers were found quickly, however, it brought great fame, which was specially created for Napoleon III.

It took a lot of time to prepare the Imperial cologne, but the result demanded it. Pascal presented a crystal bottle, on which a bee was emblazoned in gilded relief, to the emperor. And Napoleon’s delight knew no bounds. This day became very significant for Pascal: he was appointed the official imperial perfumer, and high-ranking persons did not stop placing orders for him. To preserve the memory of his rise in his career, Guerlain decides to preserve the engraving that turned out to be so successful and makes it his logo. Honeycombs are still used on Guerlain bottles today.

In 1864, Pierre dies, and his sons, Gabriel and Emme, take up his business. Gabriel has a commercial bent and takes control. A romantic guy Aimée takes up perfumery.

In 1889, Aimé released a sensational fragrance: Jicky is dedicated to his first love, it is the first perfume that has top, middle and base notes of the aroma. These perfumes began to use synthetic ones along with natural ingredients. Jicky was a fragrance that suited both men and women. And the name Jicky is the name of a young lady who will forever remain in the heart of Aimé Guerlain.

In 1910, Aimé Guerlain left the world, and his work was continued by his nephews, Jacques and Pierre. History likes to repeat itself: Pierre is engaged in commerce, and Jacques is composing. The masterpiece Shalimar, which was created by Jacques Guerlain, is still popular in our time. In 1955, grandson Jean Paul helped his grandfather create the Ode fragrance. “Ode” is the first creation of Jean Paul and, sadly, the last creation of Jacques - he died in 1956. Jean Paul studied perfumery with his grandfather from the age of 15, and although he had no education and was absent-minded, his grandfather left the matter to him: it was Jean who was able to accurately convey the smell of daffodils, obtaining it from an artificial element.

Jean Paul did not let his grandfather down. Working hard, after four years Jean released a popular fragrance for men - Guerlain - Vetiver. The guy works day and night, negotiates with suppliers of raw materials, brings perfection to chemical formulations, conducts experiments with odors.

Jean Paul's main source of inspiration was women. He dedicated the Guerlain Chant d’Aromes perfume to his first wife, and his second wife received the Samsara fragrance. The film by Françoise Sagan was released, and the fragrance Chamade was released especially for the main character Catherine Deneuve. "Only the smell can transform scary woman into a beauty,” said Jean-Paul. Jean understood perfectly well that perfumes and perfumes are kind of relatives.

The successful perfume company Guerlain has achieved worldwide fame: a huge number of hits for men and women were created by the brilliant perfumer. However, progress does not stand still, and Guerlain perfumes are undergoing adjustments. Synthetic components are replacing natural ones with amazing speed, and many fashion houses take advantage of this and reduce costs by . Compete with perfume aromas, which are three times cheaper, is not at all easy, but Jean Paul also refused to switch to synthetic materials. Finally disappointed, Jean Guerlain sells his business to LVMH, a fairly well-known corporation.

And for the first time in almost 200 years, fragrances are completely modified, replacing natural component synthetic. The smells seem to be the same, they even acquired a special durability and brightness, but the soul of the great Guerlain dynasty is no longer embedded in these fragrances.

House of Guerlain) - French perfume house, run by a family Guerlain from its creation in 1828 until 1994. Since 1994 the company Guerlain came under the control of the French transnational company LVMH (Moët Hennessy - Louis Vuitton).

Guerlain I is one of the oldest operating perfume houses in the world.

Founder Houses Guerlain- Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain.

Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain, the son of a manager at a spice company, began his career when he was 19 years old as a sales representative for companies involved in the production and sale of perfumes. cosmetic products. While studying chemistry in England, Pierre-Francois learned about soap making and flower distillation, and decided to try using his skills. In 1828, not far from the Arc de Triomphe in Paris, he organized a small factory producing cosmetic products, and then opened a store on the ground floor of the luxurious Le Meurice hotel, located on Rue de Rivoli. The location was very fortunate, since the Le Meurice hotel was a favorite place for the English of high society. The store sold perfumes and cosmetics from England, attracting a high-class clientele, as well as the first inventions of the Guerlena. Among Guerlain's products, Liquid Bloom Rose, a lip balm with a light pink tint and Golwond whitening lotion.

At that time, English perfumers were considered the best in the world, but Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain dreamed of changing that. In just a couple of years, he turned his store into one of the most attractive places for high society. Pierre-François began experimenting with aromatic compositions, creating the colognes Supérieure and Royale, and then, in 1830, the cologne Imperiale, which combined the refreshing scent of citrus and Provençal herbs. At that time, perfumery was quite primitive, offering only simple compositions of extracts of herbs, flowers and citrus fruits. Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain tried to adhere to the most high standards, both in the selection of raw materials and the final product, and then in its presentation.

Pierre-François Guerlain always communicated with his customers, and this gave him a clear understanding of what products his customers needed. Subsequently, direct marketing will become distinctive feature companies.

In 1842 Guerlain tried to offer my perfumery and cosmetics to a large Parisian department store, but having received a refusal, he decided once and for all to independently sell his own products.

First catalog Guerlain dates from 1830. It had a fairly varied assortment. cosmetic products- nourishing cold cream Froide de Limaçons with snail extract, pink cold cream and cucumber cream, skin whitening, Blanc de Perles cream, brightening the skin, cucumber milk for cleansing the skin, Persian cream, moisturizing the skin of the hands, Patti cream, brightening freckles, Savon soap made from whale oil, as well as a unique product at that time, Epilotoire, which allows you to remove excess hair on the face and hands.

From decorative cosmetics in the company's assortment Guerlain there were de Lys powder, which provides an alabaster complexion, aux Fleurs powder with a delicate floral aroma, delicate de Cygne powder, and very popular lip balms among ladies - Baume de la Ferte, with a high tannin content, protecting lips from cracks and Roselip - A long-lasting pink balm with rose extract, placed in a small porcelain jar, this balm was successfully sold until 1958.

The catalog also presented our own perfume compositions. Were especially popular perfume"Soul of Flowers"

In 1840 Guerlain Together with his sons, he moved to the fashionable Rue De La Paix, where the perfumer acquired new clients. One of Guerlain's first famous customers was the French writer Honoré de Balzac, who asked him to create an eau de toilette especially for himself. The writer laid the foundation for a new service, the creation of personal aromas.

In the same 1840, Pierre-François Guerlain opened his own perfume factory in the Paris suburb of Colombes and produced the first solid blush, Rouge au Carmin de Chine, packaged in porcelain jars. By the middle of the 19th century, Guerlain became not only the most fashionable, but also the highest paid perfumer in Paris.

In the 1840s, the Guerlain catalog constantly expanded with new perfumery and cosmetic innovations - Bloom of Roses liquid blush, strawberry cream Crème à la Fraise, Rouge de Court, Rouges de Carthame, Rouge de Damas, Alba Pulvis powder, Otto Rose Soap, Tresor de la Bouche tooth powder, Antiseptique teeth cleaning products, etc.

In 1840 (according to other sources in 1878), the first commercially successful eyeliner, Pyrommée, translated as "the secret of the fiery gaze", was produced. Legend has it that Guerlain learned the secret formula for creating this product from the Armenian Pasha, who lifted the veil of his harem for him. And although eye makeup in the 19th century was associated mainly with actresses and ladies prostitute, many high-ranking persons bought the treasured ivory jars.

Since 1842, Guerlain's company has managed to win the trust of the most demanding customers of almost all the royal courts of Europe. Queen Victoria, Queen Isabella of Spain, Queen Marie of Romania, Empress Elisabeth of Austria, Emperor Alexander III and his wife Empress Maria Feodorovna became his regular clients. For the House of Romanov, the perfumer created the fragrances Cour Russie (“Russian Courtyard”), Moscow Glory and L’eau de Cologne Imperial Russe (“Russian Imperial”).

Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain reached the apogee of fame in 1853, when he was born colognen Imperial - L'Eau de Cologne Impériale is an extraordinary fragrance created by order of Emperor Napoleon III for his wife Eugénie de Montijo. A native of Spain, she could not get used to the new climate and often complained of inexplicable melancholy, bad feeling and headaches. After the coronation, the French emperor wanted to find some special gift for his young wife.

Convinced that the reason for his wife’s sadness was nostalgia for his native Andalusia, Napoleon III turned to Guerlain and ordered to create a perfume filled with the aromas of Andalusian fields, reminding the empress of her homeland. The perfumer agreed, although he had no idea what Spain smells like or how to cope with the imperial fantasy.

After a series of experiments, Pierre-François Guerlain managed to create the ideal cologne formula, in which the concentration of essence was minimal, no more than 5%. When applying just a few drops to the skin, one could feel how the first floral notes of lavender and verbena revealed themselves, then the intensifying accords of bergamot and lemon, intertwined with orange blossom. Guerlain placed cologne into the simplest bottle and, having signed the label by hand, sent it to the emperor’s residence.

Cologne made the proper impression, Evgenia stated that her health had improved and even the migraine that had been haunting her had subsided. Fascinated by the aroma, the Empress said that Guerlain managed to “fit all of Spain into one bottle” and asked her husband to appoint Pierre-François Guerlain as chief court perfumer. For a long time Imperial cologne was produced only for Empress Eugenie. But times have changed, which means that political and economic foundations have changed. The role of France in the international arena was very high; Napoleon III believed that his country should not only lead in trade and industry, but become the epicenter cultural development for the rest of civilization. Taking advantage of the situation, Guerlain turned to the emperor with a request for permission to sell L’Eau de Cologne Impériale to the general public, including abroad, so that the world would know about the achievements of the French in the perfume industry. Having received imperial permission, Guerlain ordered a special bottle for cologne from the masters of Pocher & Du Courval, which reflected his high origin perfume. This is how a magnificent glass bottle with relief bees, which were part of the heraldic ornaments of the Bonaparte dynasty, was born. After some time, Guerlain ordered an even more luxurious version of the bottle, where the bees and some ornaments were covered in gold. Imperial cologne raised the company of Pierre-François Guerlain to unprecedented heights, laying the foundation of a perfume dynasty.

After the death of Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain in 1864, the perfumery business passed to his sons, Aimé Guerlain and Gabriel Guerlain. stood before the heirs difficult task- not just to maintain the glory of the perfume house, but also to prove that they not only benefit from the achievements of their father, but also know how to create like him. The brothers divided responsibilities among themselves - Gabriel, who has excellent business skills, took control of the company into his own hands, and Aimé, a born perfumer, went down in history as a professional who laid the foundations modern perfumery, started creating aromas.

New Guerlain house fragrances- Fleur d'Italie (1884), Skine (1885), Rococo (1887), Bouquet Mademoiselle (1890) - were very popular. The catalog of cosmetic products expanded rapidly. Poudre de Cypris powder, Rose du blush Moulin, Providence Huvé Guerlain cream that protects the skin from the sun, Secret de Bonne Femme, a moisturizing cream with a subtle scent and much more.

In 1889, Aimé Guerlain created a sensational Jicky scent, one of the first spirits, which were created with the addition of synthetic components. In their perfume composition Coumarin was used, notes of wood were combined with lavender, iris, vanilla, lemon, and a number of spices. In addition, in the formula spirits included components of animal origin - the substance civet, extracted from the anal gland of the civet, ambergris and castoreum.

The legend says that the legendary perfume Guerlain Jicky – Jicky were named after the girl with whom Aimé Guerlain was in love as a student in England, and with whom he was forced to break up. There is also a version that Jicky is the nickname of Gabriel's son Jacques.

In 1890, Aimé Guerlain created Excellence perfume, in 1892 - Belle-France, and in 1894 - Cipricime.

During the Franco-Prussian War of 1870, Aimé Guerlain developed a formula for protective and skin-soothing balm for nurses, as well as Camphrea cream, which destroys bacteria and masks imperfections on the face. This miracle cream is still produced by Guerlain

Aimé Guerlain created a cosmetic product that has become a cult favorite - the world's first red lipstick in a cylindrical tube, called Ne m'oubliez pas (Forget me not). The lipstick was a red-pink lip wax placed in a special case with a button into which, after using the first wax stick, a new stick could be inserted.

In 1910, after the death of Aimé Guerlain, the perfume business was passed on to representatives of the next generation - Gabriel's sons Jacques Guerlain Pierre Guerlain. The brothers also divided responsibilities among themselves - Pierre was involved in the development of the company, and Jacques was involved in the creation aromas.

With time Jacques Guerlain will be called the “main nose” of the perfume house. Each generation of the famous dynasty created fragrances that became a sensation. Jacques Guerlain created such legends as Après l "Ondée , (1906), L "Heure Bleue (1912), Mitsouko(1919). In 1904 he released a perfume pair for the bride and groom. Jacques Guerlain called this pair, which became a wedding gift for a family friend, Mouchoir de Monsieur and Voilette de Madame. But a truly legendary creation Jacques Guerlain became perfume Shalimar - Shalimar, which means "Gardens of Love", created in 1925.

At that time, fashion for everything oriental was widespread in Europe, and Jacques Guerlain created the world's first oriental scent. And he was inspired by the legend about the love story of the Indian ruler Shah Jahan and his wife Mumtaz Mahal. When Shah Jahan's beloved wife died, the legendary white marble mausoleum Taj Mahal was built in her memory, which became her tomb, and a beautiful garden was laid out next to the mausoleum. Perfume Shalimar House of Guerlain is still releasing.

In 1914, Jacques Guerlain commissioned the famous architect Charles Mewès to design a building for the Perfume House on the Avenue des Champs-Élysées.

Jean Guerlain went down in the history of perfumery not only as the creator of legendary fragrances, but also of products that marked the beginning of a new era in the cosmetics industry.

His credit includes scented powder Shalimar spirits La Poudre C"est Moi, Lynx eye pencil, available in four shades - black, blue, brown and light brown, Citron moisturizing lemon cream, aromatic hair product with fragrances Jicky perfume, L'Heure Bleue, Shalimar, Mitsouko, first long lasting lipstick in a case with a tassel Rouge d'Enfer, which appeared in 1924, and in 1936 - Rouge lipstick Automatique. In 1936, eye shadows were released in a rich color palette - blue, light brown, silver blue, light and dark green.

In the 1930s house Guerlain started releasing sunscreens- sun protection oil and daily cream for protection from the sun and freckles.

In 1939, on the ground floor of a boutique on the Champs-Élysées, Jacques Guerlain opened a beauty salon offering a range of different skin care treatments.

Jacques Guerlain developed his own approach not only to creating fragrances, but also to packaging design. The creation of each new perfume became an entire concept, including bottle design, branding and packaging. House of Guerlain began collaborating with the famous French company Baccarat crystal, which created the Champs-Elysées crystal perfume bottle in 1904 - Champs-Elysées .

Bottles for the Guerlain house were designed by talented designers Georges Chevalier, a representative of the famous French company Baccarat, Italian sculptor Robert Granai, and one of the creators of the bottle design was Gabriel Guerlain.

The most famous creations of Jacques Guerlain - perfume Après l "Ondée, (1906), perfume L "Heure Bleue(1912), Mitsouk perfumeo(1919), Shalimar perfume(1925), Liu (1929) , Vol de Nuit(1933), a perfume named after the story of Jacques Guerlain’s friend, French writer Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, “Night Flight”, perfume Coque d'Or(1936), created for another friend - the legendary impresario Sergei Diaghilev, as well as Sous le Vent perfume(1933), made for the famous dancer Josephine Baker and Oda perfume(1955), created together with his grandson Jean-Paul Guerlain.

Jacques Guerlain's grandson Jean-Paul learned the intricacies of perfume making from his grandfather at the age of 15. His abilities were passed on to him by inheritance. They said that he could recognize about three thousand odors. But above all, he knew how to create aromas. In 1955, frosts unprecedented in France destroyed all the daffodil bulbs, but buyers were of little interest in the vagaries of the weather. Jacques Guerlain told his grandson: “Do you want to become a perfumer? Recreate the scent of the daffodil yourself.” And Jean-Paul coped with this task.

Jean-Paul Guerlain proved himself to be a worthy successor. In 1951, the perfume house launched the first serum, L’Emulsion d’Ambroisie, to maintain skin softness and improve its structure, applied before using day cream.

In 1959, Jean-Paul released the fragrance Vetiver, which allowed him to take a strong place in the dynasty of talented perfumers. This perfume was created for men - they mixed the smell of tobacco, leather, tree moss, Indian root and vetiver. The perfume stands on a par with the masterpieces of the Guerlain company.

In 1965, inspired by his passion for horse riding, Jean-Paul came up with the second famous men's fragrance Habit Rouge - named after the rider's red jacket. When creating fragrances, Jean-Paul was often inspired by female images. For his first wife in 1962, he developed the perfume Chant d'Aromes. - Song of aroma, and in 1969 another one was released oriental scent Jean-Paul Guerlain Chamade- Heartbeat, which the perfumer was inspired by the novel of the same name by Francoise Sagan. In 1979 they were born Nahema perfume, dedicated to the heroine of one of Scheherazade’s fairy tales, which tells the story of two sisters – equally beautiful, but with different characters. The first of them, Makhani, was gentle, sweet and sympathetic. The second, the mysterious Nahema, was a mystery to everyone.

In 1975, the Parure - Decoration line of skin care products appeared, and in 1980, the line anti-aging cosmetics Issima.

In 1989 it comes out aroma Samsara , which translated from Sanskrit means “wheel of life.” Its red bottle, created by the Italian sculptor Robert Granai, repeated the silhouette of a Khmer dancer exhibited in the Musée Guimet in Paris.

Following the traditions of his ancestors, Jean-Paul Guerlain literally blew up the cosmetics market with an innovative line in 1984 Terracota bronzer powders .

In 1987, Jean-Paul created an innovative Météorites powder- Meteorites in the form of small multi-colored balls - white for brightening, green to reduce redness, as well as purple, pink and pearlescent for radiance and shine.

The Terracotta and Météorites lines for tanned skin are still the brand's bestsellers today.

Since 1994, exclusive right to use the brand Guerlain belongs to the Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy corporation, which is a world leader in the luxury goods segment. Led by Bernard Arnault, the corporation acquired a controlling stake. Jean-Paul Guerlain continued to create for another eight years fragrances for the Guerlain brand.

In 2002, Jean-Paul Guerlain retired and has been the house's leading perfumer since 2008. Guerlain Thierry Wasser became one of the most famous modern perfumers; currently, a team of perfumers who are no longer related to the famous dynasty are engaged in the production of perfume products of the legendary House.

The Guerlain house was founded in 1828, and throughout the 184 years of its existence, the dynasty has carefully preserved traditions. During this time, many masterpieces were created that were included in the golden fund of the world perfumery and cosmetic art, and the perfumes Eau de Cologne Imperiale, Jicky, Shalimar are today considered the cultural heritage of France.

"Perfume is the most powerful form of memory," says Jean-Paul Guerlain. This is a double tribute to the deep respect - the very nature of perfume and the longevity of the House, created in 1828 by his ancestor Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain. After all, the name "Guerlain" has been around for 170 years. wear perfume of the highest quality.

The French tradesman Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain, in search of happiness, left his small town of Abbeville and moved to London, where he got a job at a soap factory. Having become seriously interested in chemistry, he quickly advanced in his career and returned to his homeland as a representative of an English company. Soon he managed to create his own soap factory in Paris, for the sale of whose products he opened a small shop on the Rue de Rivoli in 1828. Pierre-François-Pascal was fond of creating aromatic compositions, and then hardly anyone could have imagined that the owner of the store would become the personal perfumer of the royal dynasties of Europe... In the meantime, the tiny factory began to produce Guerlain's first floral colognes "Senteurs des Champs" in a remote Parisian suburb ( "Field Paths") and "Esprit de Fleurs" ("Flower Scent"). In his shop you could also buy other aromatic goods: shaving lotions, lavender water, fragrant powder. Particularly popular were the compositions that the perfumer made with his own hands. Gradually his clientele became more and more distinguished.

Napoleon III went down in history as a fine connoisseur of female beauty, a great lover of luxurious balls and grand celebrations. According to the tradition of his royal predecessors, he married the beautiful Eugenia Montijo, a Spanish aristocrat, the daughter of a Spanish count. The story of this marriage is not entirely ordinary...

Her mother Maria's parents lived in Paris and were adherents of Napoleon Bonaparte. Then Maria, while still a girl, became friends with the son of Napoleon's daughter-in-law Queen Hortense - Louis Napoleon. One day a boy brought his girlfriend a bouquet of violets with a gold ring on it. Subsequently, many years later, it turned out that it was the engagement ring of Empress Josephine, which all the servants had been looking for in the palace for a long time and unsuccessfully. Maria, having learned what kind of relic she possessed, gave the ring to her daughter, hoping that it would bring her happiness. Once in London, Eugenia met Prince Napoleon, and he remembered the ring that many years ago he had so frivolously but so beautifully given to a childhood friend. The prince considered himself somehow incomprehensible mysteriously associated with young Evgenia. Maria herself reminded him of this at every opportunity, trying to ensure that her daughter caught the eye of the future monarch; her dresses were certainly decorated with bouquets of violets. One day, in 1851, the lovely Eugenia appeared at a ball with violets in her hair and a bouquet on her shoulder. Napoleon III was finally defeated, and 2 years later Eugenia became the French Empress.

Empress Eugenie in 1856

The tall, blue-eyed Spanish woman is as brilliant as the sky before sunset; she appeared more and more often in salons.

Octave Aubry, Eugenia’s biographer, wrote about her: “She had a clear, sober, almost masculine mind, although she lacked education. But she was more balanced than her mother, was not as greedy for entertainment and inspired more respect. She carried evening dresses, certainly sewn in the best ateliers, with a huge neckline, in which very feminine, softly falling shoulders flaunted... In the manner of standing up or sitting down, walking around the salon, bending slightly, in the ability to respond to compliments, open or fold a fan, she showed so much grace and undoubted dignity that one could not help but be amazed."

On January 30, 1853, 45-year-old Napoleon III and 26-year-old Eugenie were married at Notre Dame Cathedral by the Archbishop of Paris. The day before, Eugenie and Louis entered into their marriage in the Tuileries. Crowds of Parisians greeted the Empress dressed in white with jubilation. satin dress, the couple greeted their subjects for a long time on the balcony in the Tuileries.

Jean-Leon Gerome - Napoleon III and Empress Eugenie, 1864

Empress Eugenie in 1880

The image of Eugenia was painted by contemporaries-artists, and it also inspired Guerlain, who, for the wedding of the crowned couple, presented the young bride with the scent “Eau de Cologne Imperiale” (Imperial Cologne) that had just been created especially for her. Both the form and content of Guerlain’s creation were striking: the bottle was made of crystal, and on the cork there were bees burning in gold - the emblem of the Bonapartes, the glorious legacy of the Merovingian “Kings upon Kings”. The aroma of cologne struck Evgenia with its tenderness and sophistication. Soon the Empress granted Guerlain the title of Perfumer of His Majesty's Court, and Napoleon III allowed the use of gilded bees to decorate the rest of the bottles - so the bee became a symbol and Guerlain houses. Later, golden honeycombs also appeared on the bottle. The fame of the wonderful perfumer spread throughout all European dynasties: royal compositions were created for His Majesty the Kings of England, Spain, Austria, Romania, as well as for the Royal Court of the Romanovs. The most famous people era used the scents of Guerlain - Sarah Bernhardt, Balzac. When Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain died in 1964, he left his sons his perfumery enterprise in excellent condition and the traditions of the House.

Very soon his original perfumes stood out among the products of fragrant waters of that time. Under Napoleon III, Guerlain opened a new store on the Rue de la Mira, which later became a center of sophistication and luxury. Napoleon III, and especially Empress Eugenie, was interested in Guerlain's compositions. Especially for the red-haired beauty of the queen, Pierre Guerlain created the perfume Eau Imperiale (Imperial Water), which exists to this day. Framed in gold and strewn with bees in relief, the bottle has not changed since its creation. The perfume is suitable for both women and men, thanks to a magnificent bouquet of lemon, bergamot, orange blossom and rosemary.

They say that when Napoleon came to his wife’s apartment, he used it. Following these perfumes, Guerlain releases Parfum Imperial, Bouquet de rimperatrice, Bouquet de Napoleon and Del ice du Prince.

Sons Pierre-Aimé and Gabriel took over the management of the company in 1890. In 1889, Aimé created the perfume Jicky, one of the first modern perfumes to contain synthetic aromatic substances. And although they were presented as a men's scent, they instantly captivated women.

Jacques Guerlain was so confident that one day he would have a store on the most famous avenue that in 1904 he created the perfume Champs-Elysees (Champs-Elysees) and released it in a bottle in the shape of a turtle.

One evening in 1912, when the sun had already set and the night had not yet fallen, when time seemed to stop and vibrate in a state of love, friendship, aching tenderness, when a person was in harmony with nature, and infinity with the moment, Jacques Guerlain experienced an extraordinary feeling that cannot be expressed in words... Only perfume can do this, and he creates his masterpiece L "Heure Bleue (Blue Hour), an incomparable scent that combines rose, heliotrope, iris with jasmine, vanilla and neroli.

His two other creations Mitsouko (1921) and Shalimar (1925) perfectly and accurately reflect the spirit of the crazy years. Mitsouko are said to have been named in memory of a Japanese woman who fell in love with a British officer during the Russo-Japanese War. Here, amber, vetiver and peach, oakmoss, lilac and hesperid aromas create a surprisingly intoxicating chypre-fruity aroma.

As for Shalimar, tempting, “forbidden”, seductive, sensual, ardent, enveloping, Jacques Guerlain was inspired by a true story that has become a legend. The great ruler of India, Shah Jahan, loved his wife Mumtaz Mahal very much. She died in childbirth, and the king was so inconsolable that he built the most magnificent white marble mausoleum, the Taj Mahal, in memory of his beloved. Adjacent to it wonderful garden Shalimar ("Garden of Love"). The unique creation gave birth to one of the most famous perfumes in the world, based on incense, benzoin, patchouli, vanilla, opopanax, bergamot and iris with a slight scent of amber.

In the 1930s, another unforgettable milestone appeared: Vol de nuit (Night Flight, 1933) - in memory of Saint-Exupéry.

In 1956, the tradition of the House of Guerlain was continued by Jean-Paul Guerlain, one of the most authoritative "sniffers" of our time. In 1959, he released Vetiver perfume, a woody-spicy perfume that combines the aromas of vetiver root from the island of Haiti, lemon, pepper, musk and tobacco.

Then the perfume Habit Rouge (Red Cloak) appears, about the creation of which Jean-Paul Guerlain himself said the following: “Clubs of bluish haze became entangled in the crimson lace of sunset summer. The ringing silence of the morning was broken by the barking of dogs, accompanied by the commanding singing of a hunting horn. Flashed and disappeared with a bright red flash " The scents of bergamot, vanilla, and birch bark envelop and relax, creating an original warm aura.

His perfumes Chamade (Heartbeat, 1969), Raguguet (1975), Nahema (1979), Jardin de Bagatelle (Garden of Amusements) continue the floral motifs as perceived by the artist. “Never in my life will I forget the aroma of peonies and lilies from my grandfather’s garden, nor the smell of honeysuckle rising upward. And the true shock will never be erased from my memory: the tart smell of fragrant tobacco... and mountain daffodils, I saw them once in Switzerland. .. the plumeria dope that struck me in Senegal. Having been captured by the “Garden of Amusements” and the “Garden of Love”, lilac, forest lily of the valley or the divine left-handed flower, I believe that I will die, happy, choked by the smells" (J.-P. Guerlain, Decoration internationale, April 1985).

The ideal perfume, Coco Chanel said, is one that “anticipates a woman’s arrival and reminds her of her when she leaves”...

“Perfume is the only thing a woman should remain faithful to all her life,” says Catherine Deneuve, for whom the unique Nahema fragrance was created.

1995 marked the release of Un Air de Samsara (Aura of Samsara), fresh, light, delicate, airy, mysterious and sweet, a mixture of woody and floral scents. Today Guerlain is synonymous with perfume. Since the opening of the company, more than 200 types of perfumes from the Guerlain company have entered the market. Many of them have become classics and all, without exception, deserve a separate story.

Luxury, restraint and always high quality- these are the main features of Guerlain. The perfume house from France is famous all over the world and is considered one of the oldest in the country and the world. Since 1828, the company has been headed by several generations of this family, famous for its perfumers. Over the 190 years of the house's existence, about 700 fragrances were created. Respect for the values ​​and traditions of past years, combined with innovation, sets Guerlain apart from other perfume brands.

History of the Guerlain brand

Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain is a native of France, he was born in 1798 in the town of Abbeville. About him early years little information has been preserved, but still in at a young age he went to conquer Paris, where he worked for some time for various manufacturers of perfumes and cosmetics, including the famous L.T. Piver. Then, after studying chemistry in England, Pierre returned to the capital of France, where in 1828 he opened his own Guerlain store, selling fragrances, soaps and other cosmetics.

Business was going well, the store repeatedly moved to more spacious and conveniently located premises, and Guerlain quickly became famous for the simplicity of his ideas with unsurpassed quality of products. It is known that the perfumer, Napoleon Bonaparte, Queen Victoria and other famous personalities of the time, cultural figures, nobility and members of the royal families of Europe. The first women's perfume from Guerlain, called Esprit de Fleurs, appeared in 1829 and was dedicated to Pierre's wife.

The founder of the perfume house Guerlain died in 1864, leaving his business to his two sons - Aimé and Gabriel. The first took up the development of new fragrances, the second - organizational issues and sales. The period of their management of the Guerlain house was very successful, marked by the release of many new products and some perfumery achievements. It was Aimé Guerlain who came up with the idea of ​​dividing compositions into top, middle and base notes and the first ever partially synthetic and unisex fragrance. Jicky was originally created for men, but the warm, herbaceous sound of coumarin in its composition attracted the attention of women. Other famous women's compositions of this time are Fleur d'Italie (1884), Skine (1885) and Rococo à la Parisienne (1887).

In 1910, management of the perfume company passed into the hands of the next generation of the Guerlain family - Jacques, who devoted himself to creating perfumes, and Pierre, who took over development and promotion. The Guerlain brand is becoming more and more popular, fragrances are created for celebrities, and sales begin outside of France.

Masterpieces of Jacques Guerlain:

1. Mitsouko (1919), which absorbed Japanese motifs.
2. Shalimar (1925) is an oriental fragrance inspired by the love story of the Indian ruler Shah Jahan and his wife. After the death of his wife, the inconsolable husband ordered the construction of a luxurious tomb for her, now known as the Taj Mahal.
3. Liu (1929) is a bright and sunny floral-green composition, called by critics a real hymn to femininity. Its popularity was so great that in 2005 the brand returned it to its product range.
4. Ode (1955) is a floral-aldehydic fragrance that became the last creation of Jacques.

Perfumes from Jean-Paul:

In the period from 1956 to 1994. The brand was run by Jean-Paul, one of Jacques' grandchildren. Under his leadership, Guerlain gained worldwide fame. Such famous perfumes as:

• Chant d'Aromes (1962);
• Chamade and Chamade Extract (1969);
• Samsara and several of its flankers (1989 and later).

In 1994, Guerlain was sold to the LVMH corporation, whose ownership remains to this day. Jean-Paul continued to create for the brand for some time, but in 2008 he finally retired. Currently, the position of chief perfumer of the company is occupied by Thierry Wasser.

What interesting things were created for women in Guerlain at the end of the 20th and beginning of the 21st centuries:

1. Numerous flankers of the oriental composition Shalimar 1925;
2. Aqua Allegoria line of light natural fragrances;
3. Perfume series Champs Elysees;
4. Cherry Blossom line dedicated to Japan and its love for sakura;
5. Extensive perfume collection La Petite Robe Noir;
6. Idylle, Insolence and their flankers.

Who created for Guerlain

For a long time, the main perfumers of the brand remained the men of the Guerlain dynasty: Pierre-François-Pascal, Aimé, Pierre, Jean-Paul. And only in 2008, an outsider, Thierry Wasser, began to lead the creation of new perfumes in the company.

Other perfumers were also involved in the creation of one or more fragrances for Guerlain:

1. Delphine Zhelk, who participated in the creation of the unisex composition Lui based on Liu from 1929.
2. Silvanie Delacourt - some perfumes from the Insolence, Elixir Charnel, Aqua Allegoria lines.
3. Marie Salamagne is a trio of fragrances in the Aqua Allegoria series.
4. Maris Roucel - individual compositions from the Insolence, Aqua Allegoria, L"Instant de Guerlain collections.

In addition to them, Guerlain collaborated with: Olivier Polge, Sonia Constant, Sophie Labe, Christophe Reynaud and other famous perfumers.

Brand corporate identity

With all the current diversity of fragrances and perfume houses, Guerlain creations remain recognizable due to their exquisite style. Guerlain's pyramids of compositions rarely contain many notes, but how carefully they are selected and how harmoniously arranged.

The Guerlain perfume brand is famous for its love of... natural ingredients, and the content of synthetic molecules in fragrance pyramids does not exceed 20%. The company carefully monitors the quality of these same ingredients - Guerlain’s management regularly inspects the plantations where they are grown and processing plants.

Each and every Guerlain fragrance boasts a remarkable packaging design. The brand is confident that in the perception of the entire perfume composition its appearance plays an important role. Guerlain compares the value of a beautiful bottle to the importance of a good dress for a woman.

Another characteristic feature of many Guerlain creations is the signature perfume accord, nicknamed “guerlinade”. It contains notes of , and Tonka bean, but the exact formula, of course, is kept secret.

• 
  
• 
  
• 
  
•