The best shoes for hiking in the mountains. Hiking shoes

Whether you are going hiking in winter or summer, through the forest or through a swamp, or into the mountains; it could be a bike trip or rafting, and shoes are chosen based on this. There are no universal shoes. And it can't be. Each type of shoe is designed for something.

When hiking, your legs experience a lot of stress. In order to protect your feet from injury and to prevent them from getting tired for a long time, you need to choose the right shoes for hiking. Shoes should be chosen based on the hiking conditions. Whether you are going hiking in winter or summer, through the forest or through a swamp, or into the mountains; it could be a bike trip or rafting, and shoes are chosen based on this. There are no universal shoes. And it can't be. Each type of shoe is designed for something.

SNEAKERS
Sneakers are ideal shoes for hiking on flat surfaces. For example, on the road it is best to wear sneakers. Soft, comfortable, mobile, lightweight. An important advantage of sneakers is the price; cheap sneakers can also be good. In general, if the trip is for several weeks, then it is best to take a pair of sneakers in addition to the main shoes. For daytime stops or overnight stays, wear sneakers, and air out and dry your main shoes. But sneakers are not suitable for every terrain. For example, they are very uncomfortable to walk through swamps or wetlands. But in the mountains, on the contrary, it is comfortable - the ankle is movable, the foot is easily controlled. Sneakers are not always suitable for our forest, since we have many wetlands.

TREKKINGS
Trekking shoes are trekking boots, something between sneakers and boots. In general, at the moment there are so many different trekking models that they are no longer similar to each other. Trekking is comfortable, soft, and quite light. Much stronger and more durable than sneakers.
Their main disadvantage is the price. Good trekking doesn't come cheap. It is also important that caring for them is more difficult than for sneakers. Trekking shoes use a special membrane in their design to absorb and remove moisture. But if you scoop up water with your foot several times, this membrane may deteriorate. A variety of products are sold for trekking ears - gels, sprays, powders. Drying them near the fire is strictly contraindicated. Some types can also be used in winter

BOOTS
Boots are the most versatile footwear. Swamp, forest, mountains, flat road - boots can pass all this. Another question is at what cost. Boots, of course, are not very comfortable in the mountains. In the swamp they are simply irreplaceable, but in the taiga they are like nothing else. Good boots can be inexpensive. The main advantage of boots is ease of use, low cost, and reliability. The main drawback is that they are heavy and not very comfortable. It takes a long time to get used to boots, but once you’ve gotten used to them, you won’t find better shoes. Ideal for a winter hike. Shoe covers are a necessary thing, but not for everyone. Basically, they are needed only by water workers - fishermen, water tourists

BUCKLES
Boots are boots with a high top. The height of the shin varies, but generally it reaches the middle of the shin. It is lighter than a boot, just as durable and shock-resistant (unlike sneakers and trekking boots), easy to use, and low maintenance. The high ankle allows you to fix the ankle, which is important - the possibility of foot dislocation is practically eliminated. In the swamps, ankle boots are not very comfortable: by the end of the day the skin gets wet, the lacing gets caught on all kinds of branches. In the mountains, wearing them is generally contraindicated - in the mountains you need a movable shin, but in the ankle boots the ankle is fixed, so it cannot be dislocated, but a fracture of the shin is quite possible. For winter hikes you need insulated boots. Boots are heavier than sneakers or trekking shoes. The leg does not breathe well in them. And generally speaking, you need to get used to them, just like boots. For example, I’m used to ankle boots, and I don’t see any better shoes for hiking.

What shoes should you choose? When choosing shoes, you must proceed from the hiking conditions and individual requirements (weight, care, etc.). Personally, I use ankle boots. I have winter and summer ones. Winter ones - insulated with fur, summer ones - with a cordura top. When choosing ankle boots, you should pay attention to the sole - the sole should be soft, but durable, stitched. The soft sole wears out quickly, but does not slip on ice (glass, tile, linoleum). The tread must be deep. It is very important that the tongue is hemmed high: the higher, the better. Ideally, the tongue is hemmed all the way to the top, but it is acceptable if it is hemmed just above the ankle. If the tongue is not hemmed, or hemmed low, the boots will scoop up water. You should also give preference to models with a soft upper edge of the ankle. In the standard "military" model it is hard and rubs your calves. In order to avoid this, you should beat off the edge of the ankle with a mallet. The same applies to boots. Shoes should be chosen taking into account the fact that you will wear them with a wool sock, that is, go half a size up.

When choosing any shoes, remember the rule - the fewer seams, the less they leak. Basically, shoes allow water to pass through the seams, so choose models with the fewest seams, that is, the fewer pieces of leather used in sewing, the better.

If you buy leather shoes (combat boots, boots, boots), pre-treat them. To increase water-repellent properties, you can soak the skin and seams with melted goose fat, shoe polish, or, in general, something that repels water. I just soak the boots with cream. Impregnating is not the same as lubricating. You need to soak your shoes with cream several times until completely absorbed. Exactly new shoes! If you can’t do this right away, be sure to dry your shoes before impregnation. It takes me half a tube of cream to soak a pair of boots.

For hiking, the best shoes are well-worn low-heeled boots, preferably with grooved soles. The boots should be spacious enough to accommodate a felt insole and a thick (woolen) sock. You can take boots one number larger than usual. If they are too loose, you can put not one, but two insoles in them, or put a cotton sock on top of a woolen sock. Before going on a hike, boots should be soaked several times with a special ointment for sports and hunting shoes, sold in sports stores, or with any unsalted fat. This is done as follows. A layer of fat is applied to the boot with a clean cloth, and then it is slightly heated on gas. When the fat is absorbed - it seems to the eye that it has simply dried - you need to apply another layer and warm the boot again by the fire. But be careful - as soon as the grease dries, you must immediately apply the next layer, otherwise the skin may warp from the heat. This procedure is repeated several times. During the heating season, you can lubricate your boots and place them under a radiator overnight. This method is safer for boots, but the smell from them will last all night. It must be borne in mind that if too much fat is absorbed into the boots, their quality may deteriorate - the leather will become too soft. Therefore, if, with strong pressure on the leather of the boot, fat begins to squeeze out a little, then further impregnation must be stopped. If the boots are rigid or form folds (most often transverse at the toes or longitudinal at the ankle), it is useful to place them in spacers.

To do this, the toe part of the shoe must be tightly stuffed with paper (it is best to roll it into tight rollers), and some object that provides space, such as a glass jar, must be inserted into the heel. In this case, you need to make sure that it is inserted tightly and straightens the folds on the skin. To do this, the outside of the jar itself is lined with paper rolls, wooden blocks, in general - with any suitable objects that are at hand. In addition, you should definitely break in your boots by walking around in them. A common mistake that tourists make when choosing shoes is that they purchase boots literally on the eve of the trip. The result is worn out feet, blisters, and sores. So, any low-heeled boots are suitable for hiking. Low shoes are worse: they do not support the ankle. It is good to use basketball shoes with a thick insole when hiking. However, one must keep in mind that when they get wet and then dry, the sneakers shrink very much. Therefore, when purchasing sneakers for a hike, you need to choose their numbers two more than regular shoes. At home, they should be wetted under the tap and then dried. Then the sneakers will acquire the size that they will actually take on a hike. If they turn out to be a little big, then, like boots, you can put a double insole or put on a second sock. Low-top sneakers and tennis shoes are also suitable for hiking, but their drawback is that, like low shoes, they do not support the ankle. High-heeled shoes are absolutely not suitable for hiking: you simply cannot walk any significant distance over rough terrain in them. Various sandals and sandals are also not suitable. In hiking conditions, the foot “walks” too much in them, and the straps, as a rule, are not reliable. Even less suitable for hiking are mules and slippers. Even ordinary slippers with thin soles are uncomfortable for hiking. You can easily stub your fingers in them when you bump into tree roots or potholes in the road; on hard ground, your heels quickly become wobbly and begin to hurt; Finally, they provide poor protection against sharp objects that may accidentally get caught on the road. For hiking in the off-season, during rainy and muddy times, rubber boots have proven themselves well. They should also have a felt insole, and if size allows, then two. You can put a wool sock (one or two) in your boots. If you sew felt or fur socks for your boots, you can wear them in the snow, at least until it gets too deep.

Ordinary army-type tarpaulin boots did not take root on campaigns. They are too heavy for summer and do not have the waterproofing properties of rubber boots for off-season hiking. During a hike, any hiking shoes should be dried periodically. Even in dry weather, it can get wet on the inside from sweat, on the outside from evening or morning dew, from an accidental step into a puddle, etc. It is best to dry shoes in the sun, and if there is none, in a place sheltered from rain in the air, preferably in wind. If there is dry hay nearby, stuff it into your shoes. Drying shoes near a fire, which novice tourists love to do, should be done with great caution. Under the influence of heat, shoes can easily either burn, or lose elasticity, or crack. Learning to take care of shoes drying by the fire is not so easy. No wonder there was a saying among tourists that a person does not become a real tourist until he burns three pairs of shoes by the fire. Therefore, it is generally not recommended to dry shoes directly near the fire. It is much better to place it somewhat to the side, where warm air reaches (but not heat or sparks). In this case, care must be taken to ensure that warm air penetrates inside the shoes. To do this, they usually put it on sticks stuck into the ground, after removing the insoles for separate drying. If there is any doubt that the heat is too high for drying, it is better to move the shoes further away without hesitation. In the end, let the boots remain a little damp, otherwise you may end up without them at all. All this, however, does not mean that you can do without drying your shoes altogether. Shoes thrown haphazardly do not have time to dry overnight, even if the night is dry. Damp shoes easily rub your feet, and in the off-season they can cause colds and even frostbite. By the way, it is very useful to have a second pair of shoes with you in case the first one does get damaged when drying, or the tourist wears his foot and needs larger or softer shoes, or, finally, just so as not to sit barefoot, while your boots dry. On long hikes, given the possibility of shoes breaking down, experienced tourists always take a second pair. For Sunday hikes, it is enough if the second pair is taken by one or two people, depending on the size of the group.

There are only two main requirements for hiking shoes: they must be comfortable and meet the conditions of the hike. The best boots are not the most expensive ones in the store or the ones your friend rave about, but the ones that fit comfortably on your feet and allow you to comfortably complete a particular hike. We will choose based on these principles.

General rules for choosing shoes

Choose according to your hiking conditions

First, the shoes should be designed for hiking. City boots, running sneakers, army boots are a bad option. Hiking shoes are designed to provide comfort and safety on specific terrain that is not found in the city: to protect the foot from twisting, hitting rocks, getting wet, and so on.

Secondly, shoes must correspond to the conditions of a particular hike. and in the fall in the Elbrus region you need different shoes. For and you need different shoes. Therefore, the first thing you need to do before choosing shoes is to find out the hiking conditions.

Beginners should take shoes “with reserve” - not by size, but by characteristics. Due to insufficient experience and poor muscle preparation for mountainous terrain, the legs require better protection. That is, where sneakers are enough for an experienced tourist, it is better for a beginner to take boots. Where light boots are enough for an experienced person, a beginner should go for tougher ones. In addition, if you are going to continue hiking, you should think in advance so that the same boots will serve you in future trips. But extremes should also be avoided. Beginners often choose the heaviest mountain boots for their first hike. And if this is not a hike of the fourth category of difficulty, where such shoes are really needed, they will be heavy and uncomfortable.

Trying on different shoes

Take your time and try on everything that is offered in the store to suit your hiking conditions. Shoes come with wide and narrow lasts, high and low insteps - each manufacturer has its own characteristics, and this needs to be understood in the store. Walk around the store in boots - the shoes should not “press a little” and be “a little uncomfortable” - on a hike this will result in complete hardness. Don't count on your shoes breaking in - modern shoes either fit your feet right away or don't fit at all.

Bring a spare pair of shoes when hiking

These could be light sneakers or sandals, or even rubber slippers. Spare shoes are needed primarily for camp - to come, take off your boots and give your feet a rest. You can cross fords in it so as not to get your main boots wet, or after a hike you can take a walk around the city. You also need spare shoes in case something happens to your boots - for example, you accidentally burn them at a fire while drying them, this also happens. At least you can get somewhere with sneakers or sandals.

When you have spare shoes, your feet in the camp will rest from heavy boots / adventure-journal.com

Boots or sneakers

Beginners often have a question: what is better, boots or sneakers? If you are going on your first hike, be sure to get a list of equipment from your leader. It will tell you what shoes are needed for a particular hike - and you should trust the leader, because he has already walked this route and knows what to expect from the trails and weather. But you should also understand for which hikes boots are more suitable and for which sneakers. Let's figure it out.

When are boots needed?

• First hikes for beginners with poor physical fitness,
• Multi-day treks with a heavy backpack on poor or no trails, e.g.
• Hikes of any duration in the off-season or winter.

On hikes where you have a heavy backpack on your back, there is a risk of twisting your ankle. This risk is especially high for beginners with minimal physical training - the muscles and ligaments are not yet prepared for this type of load. That's what boots are for. They fix the shin, the leg is more stable on stones and scree - on such terrain it is easiest to twist the ankle. If the terrain is difficult and you are a beginner, you should wear boots even when hiking without a backpack - just take lighter boots. The same thing applies to hiking in spring and autumn - boots protect against dirt better than sneakers, so they are justified even on one-day trips without backpacks.

When are the sneakers enough?

• Light day hikes on easy terrain
• Hiking with a light backpack on prepared trails
• Hiking by experienced hikers with a light backpack

Sneakers are suitable for novice hikers only for hiking without a backpack on simple terrain. For example, one-day walks in Crimea, or trekking in the Alps with overnight stays in shelters. Experienced hikers with trained ligaments and muscles can walk in sneakers and longer routes with a backpack, but on good trails. The main principle is that the better the preparation (both of the legs and the tourist himself), the more situations when you can go in sneakers instead of boots.

Each shoe has its own hiking conditions.

How to choose trekking boots

Trekking boots are divided into three categories:

• boots for light trekking (or hiking) will be needed in Georgia and the Elrus region.
• boots for average trekking (classic), for example, are needed for the mountainous Crimea and Khibiny.
• take boots for heavy trekking to Elbrus, to the Tien Shan and to Altai to Belukha.

Light, medium and heavy are not just about the weight of the backpack, although there is certainly a connection. The lighter the boot, the lighter the backpack and the terrain should be, and vice versa, the heavier the backpack and the more difficult the terrain, the heavier the boots should be chosen to ensure safe passage of the route.

Light trekking boots

An example of lightweight trekking boots. The low cuff and flexible sole provide comfort, while at the same time protecting the ankle better than in sneakers.

What is this

Light trekking boots can be loosely called “sneakers with ankle support.” These boots usually have flexible soles and soft leather or textile uppers. They are soft enough for your feet to feel like they are in slippers, but at the same time they secure the ankle - not as rigid as in more serious boots, but enough for simple terrain. These boots have many advantages: they are light, you don’t need to break them in - if the last fits, your feet are immediately comfortable. The downside is low wear resistance, especially for models with a large number of parts and seams.

For what

Their purpose is weekend hikes, simple routes along good trails and all hikes that are considered non-category, with a backpack weight of no more than 15 kg. For example, trekking in Nepal or the Alps, easy hikes in Arkhyz, Crimea, Altai, Svaneti, routes along European hiking trails.

Beginners with poor physical fitness or tourists with a lot of weight also need such boots for simpler routes, for example, hiking without a backpack on simple terrain. Experienced hikers choose these boots for longer and more difficult routes - their feet are prepared for mountainous terrain, so excessive rigidity is not required from the shoes.

Medium trekking boots

Medium trekking boots are stiffer, provide better ankle support and are suitable for hiking with a heavy backpack.

What is this

Classic hiking boots with a stiffer sole and a higher shaft that provides good ankle support. The upper is usually made of leather or a leather/textile combination, with durable rubber edging around the perimeter that protects against cuts on scree.

For what

Hiking with a heavy backpack (up to 20 kg) along unprepared trails, simple hikes in northern regions with a harsh climate (Kola Peninsula, Scandinavian countries, Kamchatka, Chukotka), sports mountain hikes of initial categories (up to 2-3 k.s.). Beginners with basic physical training and overweight tourists should choose these boots for simple hikes with a light backpack.

Boots for heavy trekking

Heavy trekking boots are made from a single piece of leather. They are stiff and heavy, but your feet are safe on difficult terrain and under a backpack / wildernessmastery.com

What is this

Very durable boots with rigid, non-bending soles and rigid ankle support. They are usually made from a single piece of leather, so they do not get wet and are very durable. The disadvantage is that they are heavy; it is unusual and difficult for beginners to walk in such boots. It makes sense to buy such boots in advance and break them in - not only so that they “fit” your feet, but also so that your feet get used to heavy shoes. You need to choose such boots especially carefully - all the inconveniences are tolerated much worse in them than in light ones.

For what

Routes with difficult terrain, harsh conditions and a heavy backpack (25 kg or more). These are category mountain hikes, hikes in the off-season and on difficult terrain: snow, ice, scree, kurumnik. The rigid sole allows these boots to be used with soft climbing crampons, and some models have a rear welt for attaching semi-automatic crampons.

Such boots are sometimes recommended to novice hikers for their first sports hikes, but this is wrong. It’s already hard for a person in unusual conditions, and there’s also a kilogram of weight on his feet. The exception is overweight tourists; additional leg protection will not hurt them. For the rest, light or medium boots are enough for simple hikes, but heavy ones are needed for really harsh conditions.

How to choose trekking sneakers

Hiking shoes are very different from trail running shoes. Even on prepared trails there may be stones, tree roots, slippery areas, and so on. All technologies in trekking shoes are aimed at protecting the foot on the terrain. This is not the case in running models, because such dangers simply will not be encountered on asphalt. So, although it is possible to use running shoes for a hike, it is not safe.

Trekking sneakers are lighter and more comfortable than boots. But they are only suitable for prepared tourists.

Here's what the right trekking shoes should have:

• Outsole with good grip. Soft rubber and deep tread hold up on wet ground, grass, muddy paths, and scree. Asphalt sneakers have smooth and slippery soles.
• Toe protection. Hitting your foot on a rock in the mountains is easy. If the sock is soft, like in asphalt sneakers, the pain will be hellish. Special protective pads on the toe soften such impacts and keep your fingers safe
• Hard block. Protects the foot from twisting when moving on uneven surfaces. Of course, it doesn't provide as much ankle protection as a boot, but it's still better than a soft tarmac shoe.
• Durable materials. Trekking sneakers are not made of mesh, thin fabrics and other materials that will tear on the first snag. Durable textiles, leather, suede - these are the right materials for hiking shoes that will last for many years.

There are two categories of sneakers suitable for hiking - for trail running and actually for trekking. They differ slightly in appearance and functionality.

Trail Running Shoes

Designed for running in the mountains or off-road, which means they are also suitable for hiking. These are light and flexible sneakers that grip the terrain well, protect the foot and allow you to move quickly and comfortably along the route. Naturally, without a backpack or with a light backpack. The downside of these sneakers is their fragility - due to the lightweight materials, they break down faster.

Examples of trail shoes that can be used for hiking

Trekking shoes

Heavier, but more durable sneakers with a fairly rigid sole and wear-resistant upper materials. In such sneakers, experienced hikers can walk long routes with a relatively light backpack, and beginners can go on day hikes and walks without a backpack.

Examples of trekking shoes

Frequently asked questions when choosing hiking shoes

Will they not slip?

A soft rubber outsole provides the best grip on slippery surfaces. One of the most famous is the Cotnagrip sole, which Salomon uses in its shoes. Boots and sneakers with such a sole provide excellent grip on almost all types of terrain where grip is required: on stones, logs, wet ground. They don’t hold up on snow and ice, but no sole is capable of such miracles. The disadvantage of this sole is a consequence of its tenacity - soft rubber quickly wears out on stones. Of course, it won’t be erased in one trip, but it’s better not to count on decades of service.

But the famous Vibram in itself does not guarantee tenacity. This sole is known for its durability, but the rubber composition varies from boot to boot. The same rule applies here: the softer the rubber, the better it holds on wet terrain. Therefore, soft and light shoes will slip less than hard and heavy ones. But in any case, the Vibram sole should be trusted more than unknown manufacturers.

Don't they get wet?

Many people think that if there is a membrane in the boots, they will not get wet at all. In fact, the membrane does not provide a 100% guarantee against getting wet, especially if you experience a week of prolonged rain. Sooner or later, any boots that have seams get wet. The fewer seams, the less risk of getting wet.

Full leather boots will definitely not get wet - only if water pours through the top. However, if this happens, it will be difficult to dry them on a hike. Shoes made from pieces of textile do not get wet the first time while the membrane is working, but then they will still get wet. But they dry quickly - a couple of hours in the sun is enough for them to dry completely. It is useful to treat your shoes with water-repellent impregnation from time to time - it also reduces the risk of getting wet.

If you cross a river that is deeper than your shins, any shoes will get wet.

How to choose shoes in a store

• Never buy shoes from an online store. Even if you already have boots from this company, the new model may differ greatly in last or size range. Shoes must be tried on!
• ​​​​​​​Come to the store in the evening - your foot will swell a little in the evening, this will happen regularly during a hike, so it’s better to be prepared for it right away.
• Try on as many shoes as possible - everyone has a different last and there will probably be one that fits exactly on your foot.
• Try on shoes with two pairs of socks - your feet should not be tight if you get cold while hiking and put on another pair of socks.
• Check that your fingers do not rest on the edge of the toe. There should be about 0.5-1 cm of free space, otherwise you will break your fingers on the descents.
• If you are in doubt between two sizes, choose the larger one - it is better to add another insole or put on another sock than to suffer in a tight boot.
• ​​​​​​​Don't make a decision right away. If you like a particular model, walk around the store, up and down the stairs if possible, to understand how it will be in the mountains.

Healthy lifestyle, trips, tourism– all these concepts are becoming increasingly popular today. And each of them, of course, requires a special approach. Even if, at first glance, it seems that you don’t need to know anything special in order to be a tourist, this is not true. After all, if you are serious about tourism, then you need to be seriously “equipped.” Today we will talk about special shoes for tourism - what they are like and why they are needed.

To begin with, we note that ordinary shoes are not suitable for tourism. Just imagine - you will have to conquer mountains and make long treks across a wide variety of terrain, and on your feet you will have ordinary sneakers, which, as is to be expected, simply will not withstand such a load. Therefore, your wardrobe should have a separate place for hiking shoes.

Best suited for hiking trekking shoes, or trekking boots. They are very popular among experienced tourists who know that if we are not talking about a two-day outing into nature, but about a real hike, it is better not to skimp on shoes and buy good trekking boots in a specialized store.

But let's take a separate look at the types of shoes. After all, if your goal is not to dedicate your life to tourism, and the upcoming hike is not particularly difficult, you can get by with regular sneakers. However, this does not negate careful attention to the choice of shoes.

1. Sneakers and sneakers Suitable for ordinary simple hikes that have simple terrain, good especially in sunny, dry weather. Don’t buy sneakers or trainers that fit snugly when you try them on; they will rub your feet during the hike. It’s better to try on hiking shoes right away, using a thick terry sock. Lace up well, take a walk, if everything is comfortable for you, then use these shoes on a hike.

2. Trekking boots supported by inserted metal or plastic structures. Inside there is a moisture-wicking, warm layer of fabric, which includes a special Micro-tex membrane. You need to choose a boot model based on the geographical conditions in which the trip will take place. On hikes where there is high humidity, hiking shoes with a membrane lining made from a single piece of fabric are used, and on skiing, lowland hiking or winter hiking, they are made of nubuck or leather with additional insulation. Trekking sneakers are a lightweight version of boots; they are excellent for summer hiking in small mountains or over rough terrain. You need to buy sneakers or boots one or a couple sizes larger, taking into account a thick, warm sock.

3. High mountain boots in the upper part are made of durable plastic, it protects the leg from external damage and securely fixes the foot. If necessary, this part of the boot can be unfastened, leaving the inner boot. For low-temperature conditions, the inner boots are finished with heat-reflecting, silvery layers and are specially insulated. The sole was thought out in such a way that it would be possible to attach snowshoes, skis, and crampons to the shoes.

4. Boots for the plateau are insulated boots that securely fix the foot. They are equipped with a Vibram sole, which is reinforced with a steel plate. The sole has special welts for attaching snowshoes or crampons. The upper part of the boots is made of soft materials - nubuck with a shock-absorbing additional welt around the perimeter of the boots at foot level, in order to protect against negative influences, and from reverse leather. Although many tourists prefer the classics, modern technologies have moved forward, synthetic boots have been released, they benefit significantly in their weight characteristics, classic ones weigh two to three kilograms, synthetic ones - about two kilograms.

What you need to pay attention to when choosing shoes for hiking:

1. Waterproof. The ideal hiking shoes should be water-resistant. Genuine leather or synthetic breathable materials are acceptable. The sole must be stitched and rubberized.

2. Thick sole with tread. The sole of your hiking shoes should be quite rigid, thick, and have a large tread pattern.

3. High lacing. An important condition for a safe hike for your feet is shoes that fit tightly around the ankle. If you don't want to sprain your ankle, choose boots or sneakers with high laces. Moreover, note that these should be laces, and not Velcro or zippers, because only laces will not break or come off at the most crucial moment.

Let's start by imagining this situation: you are a tourist, walking with a heavy and large backpack on your back, somewhere in the taiga or in some tropics. You have a clearly defined plan of action, time to stop, spend the night, etc. And suddenly the sole of your shoe breaks, this throws you off the set pace and course. Instead of following a hiking plan, you will have to stop, patch your shoes, and get back on the route again. This is possible, but your shoes will no longer be your helper; they will let moisture through, rub your feet and tear again. That is why you need to choose high-quality and proven shoes.

Speaking of the sole. Trekking boots and sneakers are specially made with hard and elastic soles for more comfortable movement. Let’s say you are in the mountains, where the soil is quite unstable, so the sole should be similar to an SUV tire, just as elastic and with treads.

As for the design of the shoe itself, it must be rigid, otherwise your foot will ride in the shoe, and this is fraught with dislocations and sprains, which will only complicate your journey.

At the moment, there are many companies that make shoes for a variety of difficulties of your route, but among the trusted brands I would like to mention: Salomon, Campus, La Sportiva, Asolo and Teva.

To decide on the model of trekking shoes, you need to take into account a number of details and factors. Let's go in order.

Route complexity

1. Simple, easy- the most common walk through the forest or city in the summer. For such difficulty, you can choose regular trekking sneakers or sandals. In them you can easily go for mushrooms or firewood, walk around the city, and see all its sights. The sandals are made of a special sole with “spikes”. Due to this, they can be used on a long hike, but only as replacement shoes. Such sandals are made not only by sports companies such as Adidas or Nike, but also by companies that specialize in hiking shoes; they usually have more experience, and the shoes are correspondingly of better quality. Experienced tourists have come to trust Teva sandals, which are worn in Crimea and other warm regions or countries. As you know, our people love to save money and manage to walk their entire tourist route in sandals. Advice to all tourists: there is no need to wear sandals where the climate is unstable or cool.

Let's talk about sneakers now. The sneakers are not as ventilated, but they provide better support for the foot and leg in general. In them you will be more comfortable and confident to walk on uneven surfaces. Hiking shoes are made with a rubberized toe that gives protection to your toes from damage. The sneakers for the warm season have mesh elements inserted to ventilate the foot. We recommend using La Sportiva brand sneakers for easy routes.

There are sneakers that are completely mesh, such as Salomon sneakers. They can be worn when jogging and playing sports, in the warm season.

2. Medium difficulty level. Shoes of this difficulty can be used on long hikes in the summer. For example, hiking in the Crimea or in the Carpathians, where there are sharp ascents and descents, and where the terrain is quite bad. The difficulty is that you will have to carry a backpack, which will contain food, dishes and equipment for spending the night, and this will add about 7-10 kg to your weight. Bad shoes can lead to unpredictable injuries, most often to the ankle.

Based on this, you will want shoes made of regular leather or nubuck, with durable inserts and a rubberized toe. Also, such shoes are made with a high top, which allows you to load the ankle muscles well and without injury.

According to tourists, boots for easy routes wear out very quickly and can get wet even on the first day of the hike. However, in our country you can easily find shoes for ordinary light hikes, but boots for difficult hikes are quite difficult to find.

3. Difficult level. These shoes are designed for long routes with sharp descents and ascents, and a fairly heavy backpack.

Typically, the upper of such shoes consists of leather to provide good support for the foot. The sole of these boots is hard and almost does not bend. According to reviews from experienced tourists, we recommend Vibram soles. There are companies that use their own design, for example, Salomon uses its own ContaGrip sole. This sole is better than Vibram in terms of withstanding dampness, but it is inferior to it due to its fragility.

About the seams. Never buy hiking shoes with many seams when hiking in areas where there are rocks, as the seams wear off on the stones at a fairly high speed.

Some models have metal and plastic arch supports that provide rigidity to your foot. A hard sole is used to prevent your feet from getting tired on long hikes, and a curved sole is also used for comfort.

For hiking on cold routes, winter boots use an insulating layer. The most popular are Thinsulate and PrimaLoft, which have excellent thermal insulation properties. In non-insulated boots, wear-resistant foam is used.

The lining consists of membranes that allow the foot to ventilate and breathe. Small holes in the membrane allow moisture to evaporate, but they do not allow large drops of water to pass through, which is a significant advantage in warm but rainy weather. Such membranes include Gore-Tex, eVENT, Sympatex. There are also OutDry membranes, with their help, when the boot gets wet, the water remains outside.

Manufacturers offer us a huge selection of models of trekking and mountaineering boots. In this review we talk about the main categories of mountain shoes and illustrate the categories with the most interesting models from the AlpIndustry range. Let us agree right away that the proposed gradation is conditional. The final choice of boots for trekking, hiking or climbing depends on specific conditions (season, region, temperature, amount of snow, ice and rocky terrain, duration of the hike, etc.) and your individual preferences (features of the foot structure, fit, personal preferences in terms of brand, pad and thermal insulation properties).

Shoes for light and medium trekking

AlpIndustry employees Volodya Nikulichkin and Sergey Shkurat in the Elbrus region, 2016.

For short hikes that run mainly along trails, it is better to choose sneakers or low shoes - lightweight, comfortable on the foot, with a reliable, comfortable fixation system and a durable, grippy sole. Such shoes should not fit too tightly: there should be some room at the heel of the big toe. If you are in doubt between two sizes, it is better to take the one that is slightly larger.

If the route involves mixed terrain, there is a chance of encountering rough terrain, loose powder and even light snow, you should take a closer look at boots made of more durable materials that are resistant to rocks and snow, with reliable ankle support (this is important on loose descents) and a more powerful sole for excellent grip on varied terrain and wet surfaces.

Trekking shoes can be made of leather, synthetics, or a combination of both. Synthetic shoes are lighter and require less maintenance, but are generally less durable and hard-wearing than leather.

If the hike promises to be more athletic, for example, includes crossing glaciers, a lot of scree descents and ascents with a heavy backpack, you should pay attention to stiffer shoe models with a more aggressive tread pattern, which, if necessary, can be worn with soft crampons . A bonus is the presence of a Gore-Tex membrane, which will prevent your feet from getting wet when crossing streams and small rivers. These intermediate trekking shoes are one of the most versatile categories. Relatively light, durable, with grippy tread and good support, the same pair of trekking boots will come in handy on hikes in a variety of conditions and will happily move from your trunk to your kit for city clothes for bad weather.

Advice

When choosing, pay attention not only to the size of the shoes, but also to the width of the last (the last is different from different manufacturers, it’s worth trying pairs from several brands). This is the key to comfort and safety on difficult descents and ascents, as well as in the case of a long hike.

	Material: nubuck Membrane: GORE-TEX® Finger protection Sole: Meindl Multi-grip, PU shock absorber Weight: 1836 g (pair)
	Material: waxed nubuck Lining: GORE-TEX® Performance Comfort Footwear Insole: anatomical Air Active® Sole: Meindl Multigrip® Gummiprofilsohle mit PU-Keil Weight: 1140 g (size 4.5 pair)
	Membrane: Gore-Tex® Frame: Asoflex 00 MR Anatomical insole Lite 2 Finger protection Weight: 1440 g (pair)
	Material: waterproof nubuck 2.2-2.4 mm Membrane: Gore-Tex® Frame: Asoflex 00 MR Anatomical insole Lite 2 Midsole: Eva mono density. Finger protection Sole: Radiant Asolo/Vibram® Weight: 1440 g (pair)
	Sewn-in tongue Chassis: 4D Advanced Chassis™ Midsole: EVA OrthoLite® sockliner Weight: 1280g (pair)
	Material: textile, waterproof nubuck Membrane: GORE-TEX® Performance Comfort Footwear Lining: mesh elastic textile Sewn-in tongue. Chassis: 4D Advanced Chassis™ Midsole: EVA OrthoLite® sockliner Heel shock absorber, foam plastic Outsole: Non marking Contagrip® Mud Guard Weight: 1280g (pair)

Boots for heavy trekking

Members of the AlpIndustry expedition during the New Year's trek to Everest. Photo by group guide Vladimir Khitrikov.

Boots for long hikes through loose terrain, snow and mountain passes should be stiffer, more durable, provide excellent ankle support and stability on different terrain, and also be compatible with soft crampons. At the same time, remain as convenient and comfortable as possible. You will probably have to walk in them all day under a heavy backpack over rocks and snow for several weeks, overcoming water obstacles, passes and glaciers.

On the route, do not forget to lace your boots tightly on the descent to firmly fix the ankle - this will give confidence - and loosen the lacing on the ascents so that the shoes do not restrict freedom of movement and do not interfere with the flexion and extension of the ankle.

Advice

When choosing boots, pay attention to the presence of a membrane and/or water-repellent impregnation - this is a useful addition to all types of mountain shoes. When trying on trekking or mountaineering boots, try to walk around the store for at least 5-10 minutes to understand how the boots fit on your feet (try on both boots, and immediately with the toe and insole with which you plan to use them). Walk up and down; as a rule, specialized stores have special slides that imitate various types of terrain.

	Material: waterproof nubuck Membrane: GORE-TEX® Performance Comfort Footwear Insole: Air-Active Vacuum® anatomical Outsole: Meindl Multigriff® by Vibram Protective rubberized welt Lacing system: Digafix Weight: 1600g (pair)
	Material: moisture-resistant nubuck 2.2-2.4 mm Lining: GORE-TEX® Extended Comfort Footwear Fit: Asoflex 00 MR Anatomical insole: Lite 2 Sole: Asolo/Vibram Ascent + dual density microporous midsole + PU Anti-Shock insert Weight: 1560 g (pair size 8)
	Adaptive Fit Insoles: 3D molded Ortholite™ Midsole: Injected EVA foam, 65 Shore C, 14mm drop Sole: Vibram Arc "teryx Hiking (shell), rubberized textile (lining) Toe and heel protection Weight: 1120 g (size 8.5 pair)
	Material: nubuck Membrane: GORE-TEX Insole: Air-Active Sole: Meindl Multigrip+Vibram Wear-resistant toe reinforcement MFS vacuum system DiGAfix ankle support system Weight: 1760 g (pair)

Single-layer boots for summer mountaineering and difficult mountain hikes

A team of AlpIndustry employees on the top of Elbrus in August 2015.

More impressive and warm models, made of leather or synthetics, equipped with welts for any type of crampon, with a minimum of seams, a protective rubberized welt around the perimeter, high shafts and a multi-layer (warm, grippy and comfortable) sole. A pair for more challenging tasks than heavy trekking shoes. In cold conditions, you can complement single-layer boots with protective insulated shoe covers.

	Material: Idro-Perwanger leather 3 mm water-repellent Membrane: Gore-Tex Insulated Comfort Welt for crampons Midsole: 9 mm insulating lbi-Thermo Outsole: Vibram IBS with easy replacement Weight: 2050g (pair)
	Material: 2.8 mm Idro-Perwanger leather+high cut fubric cuff Membrane: Gore-Tex Performance Comfort Insole: 8 mm Nylon®, anti-torsion plate Outsole: Vibram® Impact Brake System Trek Welts for cats Rubber welt around the perimeter of the boot Weight: 1750 g (pair)
	Material: artificial leather, Panatex™ textiles Gore-Tex® membrane Smartlite® Protective Welt Stainless steel hinges TPU midsole Vibram® Mulaz outsole Weight: 1472 g (pair)
	Upper material: artificial leather, textile Gore-Tex® membrane Smartlite® Protective Welt Northotic™ Pro+ sockliner with gel heel unit, OrthoLite® cushioning in the forefoot and TPU CRADLE™ support Stainless steel hinges Four-piece molded midsole PU base and softening EVA insert TPU midsole Vibram® Mulaz outsole Weight: 1362 g (pair)
	Material: Hydrobloc® Perwanger/ Cordura® leather, 2.6-2.8 mm Lining: GORE-TEX® Insulated Comfort Midsole: Dual density PU wedge + Zamberlan® PCS EVO Inner sole: Zamberlan®Fiberglass Fiber Insole 5 mm + PE Block: ZTECH technical fit Outsole: Zamberlan® Vibram® Penia Weight: 1850 g (pair size 42)
	Material: natural moisture-resistant nubuck HS12, thickness 3 mm. Membrane: Gore-Tex Insulated Comfort. Insulation: GORE-TEX® Duratherm. Double tongue. Snow cuff. Midsole: Pro-Fiber XT 20. Outsole: Vibram® Total Traction Compatible with all types of cats Weight: 2000 g (size 42 pair)
	Material: GORE-TEX® Pro Shell Insulation: PrimaLoft® Rubber welt Knee height The seams are taped Protected front zipper Weight: 623g (pair)

Photo from the ascent to Lenin Peak, taken by AlpIndustry employee Mikhail Vyazemsky.

Purpose: High-altitude technical ascents
Approximate altitudes (on average): Up to 6000-7500 m in summer, up to 4000-5000 m in winter

Let's move on to warm models of mountaineering shoes, made of technological synthetics and having a double design: an outer boot with a protective gaiter plus an insulated removable liner (for example, with PrimaLoft). A layer of warm air is formed between the outer and inner boots; this design works on the principle of a thermos and provides excellent thermal insulation. At the same time, the boots do not create the feeling of bricks on your feet and allow you to work accurately on mixed and ice routes.

Manufacturers often rank mountaineering shoe models by height, even adding to the name an indication of the number of vertical meters (6000, 8000) or the names of mountain peaks (Mont Blanc, Denali, Everest). The final choice of model, however, is influenced by many factors: area, season, temperature, terrain specifics (the ratio of snow, ice and rocky areas and their complexity), as well as the level of training of the climber and the weight of the equipment. And thus, the same model can be seen on the feet of different climbers on completely different routes.

	Material: Water-repellent, wear-resistant Cordura Lining: heat-insulating four-layer Insole: Thermal insulating 3mm carbon Honeycomb Tech Outsole: Matterhorn + IBS Boa Closure System Welt for crampons Weight: 1940 g (pair)
	Material: Cordura, Lorica Lining: Thermal insulating four-layer structure Insole: Insulating 3mm Carbon Honeycomb Tech Outsole: Vibram Matterhorn + IBS Boa Closure System Welt for crampons Model size 49 Weight: 1940 g (pair)
	Material: cordura®, kevlar® Inner: zamberlan® z-thermo footbed, z.a.s. "zamberlan air system" Insole: zamberlan z-carbon Toe and heel: thermoplastic Sole: vibram® teton + zamberlan p.c.s. Construction: cemented Closure: sealed zipper with safety flap Weight: 2580 g (pair)

AlpIndustry employee Sergei Khmelinsky during ice training while climbing Elbrus, 2016.

Terrain: Lots of snow, little rocky terrain
Approximate altitudes: On average, up to 4000-6000 m in summer and up to 5000 m in winter, if the liner has sufficient insulation

The most budget-friendly shoes for winter mountaineering and expeditions are plastic boots. In addition, perhaps the most reliable and durable shoe option - hard plastic is extremely difficult to damage - and quite warm due to the liner (it is the thickness and materials of the liner that completely determine the degree of thermal insulation of a plastic shoe). They will perfectly protect your feet from snow and the vicissitudes of the terrain. The main problem with plastic boots is that the last is too hard and the lack of any kind of steam removal system from the inside. This is always relevant on the approaches, and sometimes - during warming or intense work - and during the assault. Koflach boots are traditionally considered more comfortable than other similar shoes, thanks to a special type of plastic and soft upper.

High altitude mountaineering boots - eight thousand meters

Participants of the AlpIndustry expedition "Everest-2017" on the approach to the North Col of Everest.

Purpose: high-altitude and winter mountaineering, extreme temperatures

Top segment. Sophisticated boots for harsh winter conditions: temperatures from -30 °C and altitudes above 6000-7000 m. These boots are used to climb eight-thousand-meter peaks in Nepal and the Karakoram. There is a multi-layer heat-insulating sandwich with a moisture removal system in the liner, and a hard, also insulated outer boot, lined with a special gaiter, sometimes with Kevlar inserts, of course a Vibram sole and welts for all types of crampons.

Photos from the AlpIndustry archive.

Choosing boots for trekking is a very important task; you cannot rely on the fact that any average-priced boots will allow you to successfully complete trekking or hiking. You should familiarize yourself with the main aspects of choosing hiking boots before purchasing them.

The topic of hiking shoes is very relevant, since the right pair will allow you to enjoy your trip as comfortably and safely as possible, without being distracted by troubles with your feet and making difficult terrain more accessible and passable.

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In the last article we already covered the topic in some detail, today we will look at “heavy weight” shoes - boots for trekking, mountain hiking and climbing.

Let's first define ourselves.

Trekking boots- high (from the ankle and above) specialized shoes for walking and climbing on difficult terrain in any weather. Made from artificial and (or) natural materials of increased strength and wear resistance and equipped with a specialized sole with developed lugs for reliable traction on various types of surfaces. In models for mountaineering or difficult mountain tourism, the sole may have a special design for securing crampons with rigid or semi-rigid fixation. The characteristic features of many models are also: extended anatomical lacing for better fixation of the leg; improved moisture protection; protection of the top from mechanical damage; protection of the boot from foreign objects. The sole (most often from a specialized manufacturer Vibram) with a deep self-cleaning tread.

To successfully choose shoes, you need to imagine for what conditions one or another type is better suited. When do sneakers “end” and boots “begin”? Of course, there is no universal recipe. The general trend towards lighter equipment and faster routes is leading to the increased prevalence of running shoes. Personally, I have repeatedly met people wearing sneakers far above the snow line in the mountains, and I myself have more than once climbed winter Toubkal (4167m) in sneakers. However, sneakers will never be able to completely displace boots even from summer tourism, let alone winter ones. So, when can we quite clearly assume that we need to take trekking (mountain) boots on a hike when going on or during a hike, or in another case?

You will have to travel over very difficult terrain - rocky surfaces, scree slopes over small and medium-sized stones. The boots will protect your ankles from painful impacts on rocks, and your ankle from sprains.

It will be wet and dirty. If you often have to wade through knee-deep water, then boots will not save your feet from getting wet. But wet grass, muddy logging roads, frequent stream crossings, and heavy rainfall simply scream at you: take your boots!

Snow, cold. There are almost no options here. No, you can, of course, take more serious sneakers, gaiters, warmer socks, thicker insoles... But do we need it? If it’s a couple of days for a hike, then okay, for an experienced tourist this is the way to go, but what if not? Let's take the boots!

Classification of hiking boots

Classification, of course, is a very conditional thing, but it will help us decide a little. Now there are a lot of models on the market and it is possible to choose shoes for your specific tasks. You can buy a universal pair “for all occasions,” but you need to be prepared for the fact that, like any compromise, it will lose to specialized solutions. This option is perfect for a user who does not travel too often or an experienced traveler who goes on a long trip with a variety of conditions.

Below is an approximate division of trekking boots into main classes, which will allow a beginner to “focus”, which is very important when choosing - good boots are not cheap.

LIGHTWEIGHT TREKKING BOOTS

In fact, a “transition link” from the world of sneakers to the world of “serious” trekking shoes. The trekking shoe just grew in height and became a boot. Main distinguishing features: relatively soft sole for bending and torsion; lightweight upper materials, often a combination of thin leather/reverse and synthetic inserts (the upper is rarely made of one piece of material, it is usually multi-component); light weight; often a "sneaker design".

They are well suited for light trekking where there is no continuous snow cover, for simple rocks, viaferat, and will also perform well in the city. After wearing the sneakers, you will immediately feel better support and confidence in the support of your ankle, which is especially noticeable when carrying a heavy backpack over uneven surfaces.

UNIVERSAL TREKKING BOOTS

As the name suggests, these are the most versatile and common type of hiking shoe. These are rather just “trekking (or mountain) boots,” because when they talk about hiking boots, they mean them first. To some extent, these are shoes “for everything” - you will see tourists wearing such boots in any corner of the world; they are often used even in the heat, if increased protection and fixation of the foot is required. This type of footwear is chosen for both summer and winter, especially when you are planning a rather difficult hike. But it will perform best at moderate temperatures - from +15-20 to -10-15 degrees.

The main distinguishing features are that the sole is quite hard, with a deep tread, but still it is not as “oaky” as in heavier models and in specialized mountaineering shoes. It bends when walking, so you can walk long distances in these boots without any extra effort. Also, the sole is thick enough to, on the one hand, hide a multi-layer structure that can reliably support the foot of a person of any heavy weight and be wear-resistant, and on the other hand, have good enough thermal insulation that allows hiking on solid snow or ice cover. As a rule, the soles of universal trekking boots do not have special devices (welts) for crampons with rigid fixation, but they can be used with conventional, “soft (universal)” crampon fastenings. Ice climbing is best done in specialized shoes. The top of the boot is often leather (in this variety the classic still predominates), sometimes combined. There are models made from one piece of leather. They are particularly durable and have improved moisture protection, but are more expensive. Typically, such shoes have a medium height, but lovers of high shoes can really find such an option. There are also options for hunters and military with a specific design - sometimes they are also bought for hiking.

In general, it is in this segment that the choice is so extensive that it makes the purchase more difficult than easier. Therefore, the better you imagine your “perfect boot” before purchasing, the easier it will be for you in the store.

BOOTS FOR HEAVY (DIFFICULT) TREKKING

A general name that is usually used for hikes that involve frequent and prolonged movement over very difficult terrain, climbing (often using mountaineering techniques). These boots are also used for walking in cold conditions. This is a kind of symbiosis, a “transitional link” between trekking shoes and specialized shoes for high-altitude and technical mountaineering. This type of boots is especially popular among experienced mountain tourists, because they have to move through the highlands and sometimes make several rather difficult ascents during the hike.

What are the characteristics of such shoes? In appearance, it is more reminiscent of ordinary trekking boots, but at the same time more powerful and heavier. The most reliable materials are used - thick leather, Kevlar, ABS plastic. The sole is already almost completely rigid, often with welts for crampons, but the profile and tread are still more “tailored” for walking than for climbing.

In other words, these shoes are quite niche; such a division is generally quite arbitrary, since the line between this class and mountaineering shoes is very blurred.

MOUNTAIN CLIMBING BOOTS

This is a rather specific class of shoes, primarily intended for technical (with the use of special equipment and on difficult, usually vertical terrain) and high-altitude ascents to the peaks.

KEY FEATURES. These are usually the most innovative shoes, using the latest advances and technologies in their design (even if the boot looks classic in appearance), with the maximum degree of protection for the foot - after all, the conditions in mountaineering are very extreme. Design and construction can often also differ from what we are used to; As a rule, brightly colored shoes are used. Now on the market there are many extremely lightweight designs in which low weight and extreme functionality come to the fore in comparison with the resource of the boot. Of course, such shoes are more expensive than just trekking ones and at the same time they are not so comfortable for long walks on flat terrain due to the very hard sole with a relatively flat profile. This shape allows you to comfortably move around rocks and ice climb while wearing crampons. To secure the latter, mountaineering boots are equipped with special welts on the front and back, or only on the back (on lightweight models). It is in this type of footwear that natural materials have recently been actively replaced by artificial ones. The fact is that the latter better meet the main criterion of mountaineering - the maximum possible weight reduction with maximum functionality. The resource here is secondary. Therefore, modern fabrics, rubber, plastic and composite materials are increasingly replacing very durable and wear-resistant, but heavy leather. Mountaineering boots often have additional insulation - after all, in the mountains, at altitude, it can be very cold all year round.

In boots for technical mountaineering, the main emphasis is on the convenience of climbing in them on the most difficult terrain and lightness of design. A good fit on the foot is achieved by a special shape of the last and long lacing from the toe. The sole often has a special climbing zone with a smooth tread on the toe for better grip on the rock.

In shoes for high-altitude climbing, the most important criterion is maximum thermal insulation. Boots for climbing eight-thousanders can withstand temperatures down to -60 degrees for some time! At the same time, they weigh quite a bit. Often these shoes are also used for polar expeditions. It has a multilayer design and is made, as a rule, only from artificial materials.

WHAT TO PAY ATTENTION TO WHEN PURCHASING

WHERE TO BUY? Everything on the Internet is now generally cheaper than in the store. But even experienced tourists and climbers who have changed more than one pair of shoes can make a mistake when choosing in an online store. It is not recommended to buy your first pair or shoes from an unfamiliar manufacturer online. Remember that the miser pays twice. At a minimum, you will have to return the pair you've been waiting for from several days to several weeks and order a new one. Therefore, if you do not have a lot of time for such feats, buy in large equipment centers with a good assortment and qualified staff. Keep in mind, however, that each distribution center distributes a certain number of manufacturers and you will be persuaded in every possible way to purchase products from these manufacturers. Of course, you can try on in the store and order elsewhere...

RECOMMENDATIONS AND ADVISERS. Most beginners have more experienced and reputable friends who are happy to help with advice when choosing equipment. But often their advice is categorical and categorical. Take THIS and that's it! Why? Because it suits me, it will suit you too. It’s better to stay away from such advisors. Only you know about the structural features of your foot - fullness, instep height, some individual features require you to choose a comfortable last “for yourself”. A competent seller will definitely ask you questions about the structural features of your leg and your preferences and only then help you with your choice. Even very good manufacturers have different pads. You need to choose the one that suits you. Choose shoes carefully; they are usually bought for more than one year.

SHOES MUST BE MEASURED! Shoes for traveling need to be tried on very carefully. This should be done at the end of the day, with swollen feet, and used to try on hiking socks. Before purchasing, you need to spend at least 10-15 minutes in laced shoes. The shoes should fit you and be comfortable right away. Don’t expect it to “spread” and “sit down”. If you experience discomfort in the store, you will most likely have problems later.

FOOTWEAR AND INNOVATION. Choose shoes according to your criteria. Don’t be fooled by trendy and flashy designs and unverified manufacturers. With new, revolutionary models there is always a risk of serious disappointment. Do you want to become a tester of new ideas for the manufacturer at your own expense with an unknown result? This is a dubious idea that I recommend against. Proven solutions will not force you to leave the route or get into health troubles on a long hike. So be careful.

MEMBRANE. For high trekking shoes nowadays, the membrane is something present “by default”. In 95% of cases, a membrane in a boot is really worth recommending. It’s only better if it’s a membrane from GORE-TEX or EVENT. But if you are traveling to a VERY wet region, for example, to Norway or Kamchatka or somewhere else where you often cross knee-deep rivers without taking off your boots and many times a day, that is, if you are guaranteed to get your feet wet many times during the trip, then you don't need a membrane! Choose boots without a membrane and with a smooth leather lining. Such shoes can be dried on a hike, unlike boots with a membrane, which you will still try to dry (including over a fire) and which you will simply ruin. And remember - the membrane requires care and careful operation.

PROTECTION. If you are buying shoes for difficult hikes, you should take a closer look at models with solid rubber protection at the bottom of the boot. This will significantly extend the service life and protect your feet. I’m glad that “rubbing” has recently become a trend. For simple trekking and city walking, the boot can be worn without additional protection.

TONGUE. When choosing, pay close attention to the tongue design. This is often an area for manufacturer innovation. They often try to experiment with the tongue and not always successfully. Don't fall for the marketing scam! The tongue should be comfortable from the very beginning, this is a “risk zone” and you need to be very careful when trying it on. Many manufacturers offer the ability to adjust the height of the tongue. It's quite convenient. Make sure that the tongue does not cause discomfort - the best shoes are those that you stop noticing on your foot after a few minutes.

USING AND CARE OF YOUR BOOTS

I won’t write anything particularly new here. Keep your shoes as clean as possible, especially the inside. While hiking, take every opportunity to dry your boots and remove the insole. Remember that even the most beautiful membrane “breathes” rather conditionally, and even the most beautiful girls’ feet sweat. From time to time, treat the inside of the boot with hygiene sprays, and wipe with antibacterial wipes while hiking. Dry your shoes very carefully. Just in the shade in the wind or in the sun (but with feeling, do not overheat). Try not to overdry it or place it on a hot radiator. Many civilized shelters now install special shoe dryers, and you can also have your own for ski boots. You can also stuff slightly damp shoes with paper at night. If water is simply leaking out of your shoes (say, you fell into a stream), first wipe the insides with a hiking towel as thoroughly as possible, then with napkins or toilet paper, and only then begin to dry. As you sit near a cozy fire, remember that synthetics are very resistant to sparks and high temperatures. This especially applies to shoes with a membrane.

Shoes out of the box usually have a water-repellent finish (often referred to as DWR). Over time, it is wiped off with various abrasives such as dirt, washed off and begins to get very wet. Even if there is a membrane inside, it is still unpleasant. Therefore, apply a water-repellent coating yourself at home. The necessary tools for this are sold in equipment centers and on the Internet (be careful with the latter). You also need to purchase shoe washing products there (especially if the shoes have a membrane). It is better to clean shoes by hand; a machine is not as effective.

REMEMBER that trekking boots are only part of a system that also includes socks, gaiters (or shoe covers), as well as crampons, or an ice ax (for ascents). Only competent, comprehensive use of travel equipment will help create maximum comfort for you when moving even over very rough terrain. Much also depends on your skills. Good choice and exciting travels to everyone! The one who walks will master the road.