Nike Air Max sneakers: history and the most famous models. History of Nike Air Max Hybrids
We talk about key points Nike Air Max line. This material— an overview of the thirty-year history of the technology that created a new style in sports and on the streets.
Nike Air Max 1 (also known as Air Max 87)
By creating the first model under the Air Max label, designer Tinker Hatfield literally turned the industry upside down - his idea shifted the usual focus from the top to the bottom of the design. Inspired by the Georges Pompidou Center for Art and Culture in Paris, where pipelines, elevators and escalators are carried outside the building, Hatfield decided to expose a capsule with an inert gas in the sole - the Air Sole Unit.
The original 1987 Air Max 1 colorway boldly combined bright red with hints of white, and the "Max" prefix denoted an increased capsule volume compared to previous Air sneakers. 30 years later, the Air Max 1 remains one of the line's most popular silhouettes, but the experiments of that time were just beginning.
Nike Air Max Light (also known as Air Max II)
Not a very popular silhouette that rarely appears in current releases. The reasons are obvious - outwardly it hardly differs from its previous brother. However, it had the advantage of having a closed Air Sole Unit in the toe, as well as a lightweight design that aimed to improve upon the Air Max 1 without the need for new innovations.
Nike Air Max 90 (also known as Air Max III)
Wanting to increase the athletes' records, Tinker Hatfield acted in the only logical direction - increasing the volume of the air capsule. Combining such a sole with an upper turned out to be more difficult than he thought, so in the final version it is divided into three parts: this allows you to use various materials and technologies in one place. The Air Max 90's signature colorway is the "Infrared" colorway with red accents on the polyurethane details, but when it was first released, a similar model was called "Hyvent Orange."
Nike Air Max 180
An elegant solution that moved the Air Sole Unit closer to the outsole, making it possible to view the capsule from three sides, including from below - hence the name, indicating an angle of 180 degrees. The development was led by a team led by Tinker Hatfield and Bruce Kilgore, and Nike Chief Innovation Officer Dave Forland called the Air Max 180 one of the most labor-intensive silhouettes in Air Max history.
Nike Air Max 93 (also known as Air Max 270)
More is better. Continuing the trend, the sneaker once again features an enlarged inert gas capsule that extends to the heel. The development of polymer materials technology has made it possible to raise the angle of the Air Sole Unit to 270 degrees - more comfortable, more expressive, more stable. For some reason, the Air Max 93 did not become as popular as its other brothers, and despite the huge number of releases in 2014-2015, 2016 passed in complete silence for them. We are waiting and hoping.
Nike Air Max 95
An important sneaker for the Air Max line, in which young designer Sergio Lozano reflected his ambitions: “Everyone around me said ‘just have fun,’ and I was young and a little naive, so that’s all I needed to hear.” The Air Max 95 is inspired by anatomy - its structure resembles the human body, where the lacing and eyelets are ribs, side details- muscles, the heel and sole - the spine, and the mesh - imitation leather. General form The sneaker also evokes the layered look of the Grand Canyon, where layers are gradually revealed on the walls—the Air Max 95 follows the same principle. The main innovative role in the silhouette was played by the visible Air Sole Unit inserts in the toe, which previously appeared in the design only hidden. The original coloring was also recognized as a success: “everyone said that gray couldn’t be sold, but I wanted to prove otherwise,” says Sergio, who implemented a neon design with gradation of gray shades.
Nike Air Max 97
One of the most controversial Air Max silhouettes. For the brand's first major anniversary, it prepared a full-length Air Sole Unit that runs the entire length of the sole, and borrowed the upper design from the Air Max 95 with its wavy lines. The result was a silver sneaker that most people either hated or loved. But that was 20 years ago - now the attitude towards them is more loyal, mainly because of the piece of history that they carry.
Nike Air Max TN (also known as Air Max Plus)
Standing on the threshold of the new millennium, Air Max TN in 1998 amazed even fans of futurism - the curved lines of the design resembled an alien device, and the sole acquired a mechanism that regulates shock absorption depending on the load of the foot in a particular place - it was called “Tuned Air”. In terms of the number of modifications released, Air Max TN can compete with Air Max 1, and its appearance guarantees relevance for at least another ten years.
Nike Air Max 360
In 2006, Nike's engineering capabilities grew to design a durable and reliable Air Sole Unit in even larger sizes, and they accomplished what they had been planning for almost twenty years. The Air Max 360 was the first sneaker to feature no outsole in the traditional sense at all - only Air elements that can be seen from any side.
Nike Air VaporMax
The Air VaporMax silhouette is preparing for a presentation on March 26, at , but we already know what will be inside: full meeting achievements and developments of the brand over the past three decades. Stretchy and breathable Flyknit is placed directly on the Air Sole Unit: where previous versions of Air required an additional rubber layer for protection and durability, the innovation today allow you to combine all parts of Nike Air on one layer. Thanks to this, each part of the sneaker is able to move separately and take any shape - the culmination of Air Max, preparing to leave no less a mark on history than the Air Max 1 in 1987.
Celebrates the 20th anniversary of a recognizable model from the 90s - Air Max 97. For some, this is a completely new silhouette, but for certain people this is a classic on par with the tracks of Notorius B.I.G. “Hypnotize” or Big Pun “Still Not A player”, which at that time were played on the radio from early morning until late at night. This design is still considered futuristic, although progress has stepped far forward. Designer Christian Tresser created a unique model that is recognizable and in demand 20 years later.
Many questions remained in the shadows and Christian did not share all the details, since he worked in the company and could not disclose certain points. But based on the fact that he no longer works at, he shared interesting memories. We invite you to read an interview with the designer of the Air Max 97 model.
Ray P: Tell me please, do you have a pair from 2017?
Christian: No, I don't even have the original 1997 pair. There is another release that is in the box behind me.
Ray P: ABOUT I'm very surprised, to be honest. Since 1997, the style has changed significantly and many retro designs have not withstood the change of generations and trends in fashion, but your model was able to withstand and became legendary. When you developed this design, did you expect this effect? Did you want to do something futuristic?
Christian: At that moment I was doing what I really liked and what inspired me. I had a clear feeling to do this, I didn’t think much about 20 years and so on, but tried to fully invest in this idea. At the moment of working on the model, I discarded all other designs, and I drew my inspiration from nature and materials.
Ray P: I myself am inspired by the things around us, nature, ordinary walks. I myself try to appreciate all the little things and they really inspire.
Christian: This is the very essence. When I go to a store, I try to find unique sneaker designs so that the designer's style can be seen. At the moment, most of the designs are the same and the manufacturer is trying to use 3D printing. On the one hand, this is something new, but the style and originality of the design is lost.
Ray P: Please tell us about the ideas that were used in this silhouette and what details were in the development process?
Christian: I incorporated a lot of ideas into the Air Max 97. Materials, design, and so on. I tried to make the design of the model like a book that you read and you can highlight each element of the sneaker separately.
The basis for creating the silhouette was a drop hitting the water and after which waves appear. At that time, mountain bikes became very popular, they actively used 3M material for a reflective effect. I used these little things in the design and they blended very organically into the overall concept.
I remember very clearly the moment when I presented the design to management. It was such a unique silhouette that many employees didn't know how to react to it. I didn't want to release an ordinary sneaker, I wanted to create something unique. And I am very glad that I succeeded, after this design I began to develop models for football.
Ray P: How do you see your brainchild in 2017?
Christian: I'm glad that this model is worn with absolutely everything and is still popular.
Ray P: If I look at the prototype of your sketch, the model hasn't changed much from the initial design. What did you change anyway? How it was?
Christian: From the first moment of design development onwards, the sample really hasn't changed much. A couple of elements changed and that’s it. I always tried to be more open to different design solutions, if something needed to be changed, we did it. The development of the design itself is only the initial part of the process, albeit a fairly large one.
Ray P: Thank you very much for the interview, it was very nice talking with you.
Christian: Thank you.
Throughout the history of Nike Air Max, many models have appeared. unusual design with the introduction of new technologies. The history of the Nike Air Max 97 model is interesting not only for its innovative solutions, but also for its futuristic design, which appealed to fans of electronic music.
The iconic air cushion, developed by Nike engineers, has undergone changes from year to year. And in 1997, its appearance became so different from previous silhouettes that its popularity instantly elevated the model to the pinnacle of running sneakers.
Designers collaborating with the company put forward new ideas that decided the fate of the Air Max line. In addition to the world-famous architect Tinker Hatfield, who went into shoe design, an equally worthy inventor, Sergio Lozano, worked in the field. It was he who developed previous models Nike Air Max, but the 1997 silhouette redefined the look of athletic shoes.
The visible capsule system was proposed by Tinker in 1987 when creating the first model that won world fame. Sergio went further and made the layer visible along the entire length of the foot. The transparent cushion was visible from all angles, giving the sneakers a unique style.
But this is not all that is new. The upper of the Nike Air Max 97 is made of parallel lines symbolizing speed. A similar image can be seen on night roads, when car lights are reflected with bright rays. But the designer's main inspiration was the Japanese high-speed train "Shinkansen", in the image of which he came up with the appearance of the sneakers.
For a more durable design in top part Air Max 97 a metal mesh was installed. The look consisted entirely of silver lines with similar metallic shades. That is why representatives of rave culture immediately secured the model for themselves. I liked the bright metallic silhouette, symbolizing high-speed and digital technologies. football fans and representatives of electronic music movements. Some fans of 90s pop culture also couldn’t pass by the silver Air Max.
silver bullet
Air technology along almost the entire length of the foot has reduced the amount of foam and at the same time improved the shock-absorbing properties of the shoe. In addition to the model's classic metallic silver color, the silhouette is available in black and metallic gold. There's even an option with pink accents called "I Love Nike."
In 2017, the brand celebrates the 20th anniversary of the Nike Air Max 97, and in honor of this, it is re-releasing the revered futuristic model. Most requested color scheme received the name "Silver Bullet". After all, because of him, sneakerheads continue to hunt for their favorite silhouette. Metal Max is ready to hit store shelves around the world.
Last update: 11/17/2018
As Nike unveils the latest reboot of the franchise - the Air Max Zero - we explore the origins of the world's most recognizable sneaker. Since they were first introduced in 1987, the Nike Air Max with its visible air bubble has been Nike's last crossover sneaker. Almost 30 years later air bubble shows no signs of rupture.
Nike designer Tinker Hatfield deservedly gets credit for designing the original Air Max 1. It's worth noting that enthusiasts also owe a debt of gratitude to Renzo Piano, Richard Rodgers and Gianfranco Francini. It was these three architects who came up with the creation of the postmodern Pompidou Center in Paris. Their open frame concept with its transparent tracks and bold shots of color inspired Hatfield, a trained building architect, to transfer the idea to footwear.
“I specifically went to Paris to see the city, but also to visit the Pompidou Center,” recalls Hatfield. “It was a building turned inside out, with a glass skin underneath. Back at [Nike headquarters] in Oregon, I met with the technicians who were working on the larger Air-Sole units. I conveyed my thoughts: maybe we could also demystify the Air-Sole technology and create a shoe that is unlike any other."
“Air Max 87 at Nike Store,” Air Revolution Store Mailer, 1987
The son of a basketball coach, Hatfield was a star athlete and played for his state in both basketball and college football. He won a scholarship to study architecture at Oregon State University, where he worked on a team led by coach and Nike co-founder Bill Bowerman. He began working for Nike as a corporate architect in 1981.
“I was designing some unique buildings and offices and things at the time. People said, “This guy should make shoes.” I didn't insist on it; frankly speaking, I knew it was inevitable. When it happened I thought, 'Yeah, let's go,' he told The Guardian in 2013. “Even as a young architect, I was always the lead architect. Even in the beginning I always led creative process to the end and packaging.”
Hatfield's athletic background combined with an architectural approach helped him approach sneaker design in a new way. He wanted the Air Max to be visible from afar and to have a unique silhouette. Innovation helped Nike reach new level business.
“It sparked a lot of discussion,” says Hatfield. “The sneakers had new colors, they were worn and they weren’t crazy. The shoes were designed to be breathable, flexible and fit well. But the fact that it had an air window in the sole and the color of the frame around it meant that the shoe was very different from other shoes in its time."
The design innovation was groundbreaking. Nike famously used The Beatles' song "Revolution" in a 1987 TV ad that featured John McEnroe and Michael Jordan, helping to build the brand into a household name.
It is important that Nike Air Max sneakers were not just sports shoes. Nike has amazed everyone perfect combination functions and fashion. Unlike many other icons of the 1980s, both the technology and aesthetics have stood the test of time. "Nike Air became theirs business card" says Gerald Flores, Chief Editor US sneaker magazine Sole Collector. "Not only was it a game of variable performance, but they also looked really cool."
“The Nike Air Max looks like a supercar with a glass sunroof to show off the engine.”
"The Air Max is like a supercar with a glass sunroof to show off the engine," says Winnie Tan, assistant editor of Australia's Sneaker Freaker magazine. The man who first invented this “engine” was aeronautical engineer Marion Frank Rudy. He pioneered the concept of walking on air in the late 1970s when he developed a polyurethane capsule filled with compressed gas and showed it to Nike co-founder Phil Knight.
This Air-Sole was then customized by David Forland, Nike's director of cushioning innovation. He was responsible for bringing Hatfield's vision to life. They managed to repeat the trick with fresh Air Maxes released every few years. “It was easy to repaint them and do it all over again. They weren't overly processed,” says Hatfield.
The evolution has gone from the purity of the original Nike Air Max 1 in red, to the neon illuminated gradient overlays of the Air Max 95 and the futuristic silver bullet of the Air Max 97 to the exoskeleton of the Air Max Plus. Every design is a victory. He is pursued by obsessive collectors around the world.
High-profile fans have also helped keep Air Max at the top of popular culture. Barack Obama runs in a pair of Air Max. Kanye West was a devotee until he signed his deal with Adidas. Rappers Eminem and Dizzee Rascal developed their own. The series became so big that Nike even announced their anniversary dedicated to it. March 26 is currently Nike Air Max Day.
Since their introduction in the 1980s, sneakers have never been more popular than they are today. This was partly due to explosions in in social networks, which helped broaden their appeal and instantly diffuse new styles.
“Sneaker culture came about because it was a niche for something much more mainstream without losing its cool factor,” says Lobban. "Generally, casual wear"is definitely more important than ever before," he adds, "so high-end or luxury sneakers fit right in."
Of course, every successful franchise has a prequel. Nike has released the Nike Air Max Zero, dubbed the “up to 1.” They are based on Hetfield's first 30-year sketches from 1985. "At first glance I like Nike design Air Zero,” says Kevin Norman, who is considered one of the world’s most prominent Air Max fans. “They have a classic Air Max 1 silhouette with a visible window in the midsole. But there are elements of [another Nike shoe] Huarache in the back and the design of the sock on top and the innovative heel strap - modern form modernization".
Tinker Hatfield at Nike headquarters, Portland, Oregon, March 2015
A Manhattan energy salesman by day and impresario by night, Norman has more than 300 pairs of Air Maxes in his collection. But his favorite pair of all remains the original. “The Air Max Zero may be based on early designs, but the Air Max 1 is still the shoe that started a dynasty. Architecturally, it’s the foundation.”
Looking back at how successful the line has become, it is surprising to learn how difficult it was to start these early foundations. Hetfield recently revealed that he struggled to come up with his first Air Max. “A lot of people tried to fire me for [designing] them at Nike,” he said. "I'm proud to be named after someone who breaks the rules a little here and there."
Air Max 90
Arriving in 1990, these sneakers had more air volume in their sole. Air Max 90 included ribbed plastic panels and several lacing options to create perfect shape. President George W. Bush had a pair specially ordered with AIR PRES branding.
AIR MAX 93
Like a bumper on a car, the air unit flows around back sneaker with 270 degrees of visible air.
AIR MAX 95
This design is based on the human body: the sole represents the spine, the eyelets represent the ribs, and the layered panels and mesh symbolize muscle fibers and flesh.
Air Max 97
Inspired by Tokyo's bullet trains, the shoes' silver uppers and reflective tubes give them a futuristic look. The air unit stretches the entire length of the shoe.
Air Max 360
In 2006, nearly 20 years after the original Air Max debuted, the 360-degree air unit realizes Nike's original vision of being completely air-powered.
Air Max Zero
The Nike Air Max 1 was not designed on the first try. Rather, it was the result of several design iterations, one of the earliest of which is the Air Max Zero concept. Original sketches appeared in the Nike archives, and the result is true to the original vision realized in modern materials and designs.
1987 left a noticeable imprint on culture: Michael Jackson's seventh studio album "Bad" and George Michael's debut album "Faith" were released, The Simpsons appeared on screens, and Nike released the first sneakers from the Air Max line - Air Max 1. In honor of the upcoming and thirtieth anniversary debut silhouette, we tell you everything we know about it.
Chief Architect of Nike Air Max 1
Many are familiar with Tinker Hatfield's contribution to the history of Air Max, but it is impossible to do without his mention in an article about the Air Max 1. First coming to Nike through an acquaintance with Bill Bowraman, the company's co-founder, Hatfield designed new offices. Four years later, in 1985, he was asked to come up with a new sneaker design: Nike was losing ground due to competition from bolder brands offering bright and memorable models.
Tinker Hatfield, Air Max 1 designer
Tinker Hatfield didn't follow Nike's marketing plan or corporate guidelines, so he had a chance to create something rebellious that went against the established strategy. The Nike Cortez and Nike Tailwind silhouettes satisfied consumers in the past, but not in the second half of the 1980s. Hatfield was inspired by travel, and a trip to Paris became the catalyst for one of the most ingenious decisions of his entire life. The Georges Pompidou Center has an interesting architecture - all communication elements, including stairs, escalators and elevators, are located outside the main building. “I’m not sure what I thought about the shoe design based on what I saw. I just remember that it turned my view of architecture upside down,” Hetfield says in an interview.
Center Georges Pompidou in Paris
Despite protests
The original plan was to simply enlarge the Air Sole Unit, but Hetfield ended up removing part of the outsole to expose the cushioning. At the time, Nike, on the contrary, was trying to reduce the size of their technology, and showing it off seemed crazy - what if the Air Sole Unit pierced or weakened the design too much? “There was widespread discussion that I had gone too far. People wanted to fire our team,” Tinker Hatfield comments on the development process. Fortunately, he had enough confidence to bring the idea to fruition.
Air Max 1 sketches
The Air Max 1 was introduced on March 26, 1987 as part of the Air Pack, which also included the Air Trainer 1, Air Sock, Air Revolution and Air Safari. The risk was great, but the reward was greater - after the release of Air Max 1, Nike's performance rose to its highest level since its founding in 1964. The rich history of Air Max development allowed Nike to create a new generation of advertising: the brand openly talked about all the twists and turns along the way and provided statistics that speak of its obvious superiority over competitors in terms of cushioning.
One step ahead
The first Air Max 1 featured suede and nylon mesh in a combination of white, gray and red. The Georges Pompidou Center influenced not only the way Air was used in the Air Max 1, but also the original colorway: the building's exterior services are highlighted by red trim, so Hetfield used red accents to make the Air Max 1 make a statement even in a crowd. Already on next year, in 1988, a version with a full-grain leather construction was introduced, making it more suitable for everyday use.
Nike used statistics to compare with competitors for a reason. The fact is that the openness of the Air Sole Unit allowed it to expand beyond the sole. This only happened under strong pressure from sudden impacts, so it had little effect on the vulnerability of the capsule, but had a noticeable effect on comfort. The issue of reliability in general was one of the main ones for buyers: not everyone considered the capsule with an inert gas strong enough to wear regularly. But time proved the opposite: after years, the sole was already worn out, but the Air Sole Unit worked just as stably.
Air Max 1 collaborations
Individual collaborations in the sneaker industry were rare before the 2000s, and the Air Max 1 was no exception. The first joint release took place 15 years later, in 2002, when Nike collaborated with the Japanese store atmos. The model combined the look of the Nike Air Safari with the silhouette of the Air Max 1, creating a unique sneaker that is considered one of the best Air Max 1s. But there are other contenders that could compete for the top 10: the Parra x Patta x Nike Air Max 1 “Maroon” triple collaboration ”, the CLOT x Nike Air Max 1 SP with a translucent toe, and the HUF x Nike Air Max 1 “Hyperstrike”, limited to just 24 pieces.
Atmos × Nike Air Max 1 "Safari", 2003
Projects featuring Air Max 1
The legacy of the Air Max 1 is truly enormous. In addition to being a father figure to the Air Max line, the Air Max 1 silhouette lives on as a legend in its own right. This is the only sneaker to have a book dedicated to it: in 2011, designer Matt Stevens launched a project on Kickstarter with the goal of printing a book with one hundred Air Max 1 designs. The project eventually raised $40,369 and was successfully completed. In 2016, Nike debuted with nine of the most dedicated Air Max collectors, and this year they will present the Air Max 1 “Master”, combining the best colorways from its thirty-year history on one canvas. Follow the announcements so as not to miss its appearance in BRANDSHOP, but in the meantime, we invite you to familiarize yourself with the history of Air Max 1 personally from the Nike Sportswear team.
