Models of knitwear skirts with patterns. Tailoring from knitwear

Walking through the park in a T-shirt and shorts, sometimes you still want to wear a skirt - long, light, airy. And complement it with a short open top. With this thought in mind, you wander around the shops, but either the size is not quite right, or the quality of the fabric, or the design... I wish I could sew it myself! But I really don’t want to understand these complex patterns. Sound familiar?

Today we will look at modeling summer suits that do not require any patterns: simple models of skirts that can be designed directly on the fabric, and models of summer tops of the “bustier” type, which are made using the “tattoo” method, that is, directly on a mannequin or on your figure.

Description of models (Fig. 1)

Model 1. Suit made of cotton fabric, combined. The skirt is multi-tiered with a yoke up to the hip line, with a “mesh” insert, with a zipper, and decorative trim along the bottom of the product. Bustier-type top with a yoke and loops for a lacing belt sewn into the waistband.

Model 2. Suit made of lightweight knitted fabric with a printed pattern. Bell skirt with elastic waistband. Top with a wide sash. The bodice of the top has both shoulder and waist pleats. The waist of the top is high. There are also waist folds on the back (instead of darts).

How to sew all this, and even without patterns?

The simplest skirt in design is conical. “Bell” is a variation of it. There are both “flares” and “sun”. This skirt is built based on a segment of a circle (Fig. 2 on the left).

Bell skirt

Line OH - lobar tissue. TT1 - waist line, BB1 - hip line, HH1 - bottom line of the product, TN - skirt length (don’t forget seam allowances and loose fit). Single-suture, seam along line T1H1. Along the TN line is the fold of the fabric. Depending on the direction of the pattern, the panels of the skirt are arranged along the length (as in photo 2), then it will be two-seam.

Tiered skirt

Also easy to build (Fig. 2 on the right). Classic tiers - each subsequent one is 1/3 larger than the previous one. In our version, in order to highlight the “mesh” tier, all the tiers above the mesh are only slightly larger than the previous ones, and below the mesh they are strongly flared so that the skirt is folded (photo 1). The proposed option is a skirt with a yoke. The yoke is part of the bell skirt (figure TT1B1B). For a more fitted option, darts and a zipper are used in the side seam.

What are the similarities and differences between these skirts?

The similarity is the upper part of the skirt. Only in knitted model 2 it is looser, with an elasticated belt (it will then be covered with a wide sash from the top), and in cotton model 1 the upper part is in the form of a yoke.

Differences. The bell is cut from a whole piece of fabric, it has only one side seam (or two, if the fabric pattern has a direction). And multi-tiered - from several strips of fabric, you can combine multi-colored ones or use a contrasting finish for a single-color fabric.

Knitted top (for model 2)

The property of the fabric allows the use of large folds; in combination with a wide belt, the model will emphasize the waist and enlarge the bust. See fig. 3.

The picture does not show a belt; it is cut from a strip of the desired width. The waist line is in the middle of the belt (therefore, it turns out that the visible waist line is high), and its lower part covers the belt of the bell skirt (photo 5, 6). The neckline is to the waist. Skinny girls can afford this neckline (photo 5); for larger sizes it is better to extend the fasteners to the desired height. (Photo 4)

Bustier top (for model 1)

Bustier with yoke (Fig. 4, photo 8). A “false belt” in the main color of the suit is sewn into the front to emphasize the waistline (photo 14). The bustier is also cut with an allowance under the bust, but instead of folds, the fabric is gathered (the whole suit is more fitted). (Photo 3)

Fitting, costume decor

On knitwear with a pattern it is possible without decoration; there is already an accent - a neckline in combination with a belt (photo 5). Matching matte mother-of-pearl buttons (photo 7). Careful processing of seams.

For model 1 - a lacing belt (photo 9, 10), matching mini buttons (photo 11), trim as a continuation of the straps (photo 8, 9).

Decor - belt loops (photo 10), mesh tier on the skirt (photo 12), decorative trim along the bottom of the product (photo 13).

Well, the costumes are ready (photo 14,15). Now you can go to the city park and to the beach. On hot days, you so want to enjoy the last rays of the sun, so that in the frosty winter, while going through things in the closet in search of woolen socks, you suddenly stumble upon these summer suits and “hang” for half an hour. Remember the hot summer and how she puffed over “this bell”, how she injected herself more than once because of the “tattooing method”, how proudly she then wandered along the beach in a new suit, burning her heels with hot sand... Waking up from her husband’s tenth question: “What are you doing?” ?”, tear off the crumpled things from your cheek, answer in fascination: “I sewed this myself”...

Polina Vertinskaya

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Sewing from knitwear can be a lot of fun if you know some rules for working with it. Its main feature and difference from other materials is its elasticity. Thanks to her, knitted items are comfortable, convenient, and beautifully emphasize the curves of the figure.

Determination of elasticity of knitwear

The elasticity of knitwear makes it possible to somewhat simplify patterns - due to the stretchability, the item fits well on the figure without additional seams or darts. When sewing from knitwear, you can do without zippers - elastic knitwear stretches easily and then returns to its original size.

Changing the pattern when sewing from knitwear

Changing the pattern directly depends on the chosen model. If we sew a loose item - a wide blouse in the form of a "hoodie", a skirt or dress with folds or gathers - then the elasticity of the material does not matter, and there is no need to change the pattern.

If you use ready-made patterns from a magazine, then all increases and decreases are already taken into account in them in accordance with the recommended material. Therefore, be sure to pay attention to what fabric is recommended for the chosen model.

For those who make patterns with their own hands, you need to learn to understand this issue, because the result is worth it!

If we are going to sew a tight-fitting model from elastic knitwear that follows the contours of the body, the pattern needs to be reduced. This means a base pattern without allowances for a loose fit, that is, exactly repeating the dimensions of the body.

When working with fabrics, an increase is usually made for the looseness of the fit, and when sewing from elastic knitwear (tight-fitting models), a decrease is made.

The knitwear from which we are going to sew will help us determine the amount of reduction in the pattern. The steps are the same as when determining the elasticity of knitwear, only we stretch it not as much as possible, but as much as our finished model is expected to stretch on the figure. That is, lightly, so as not to dangle, or a little stronger, so that it can be felt on the body - it depends on the desired result.

Let's see how our 10 cm have increased - let's say, up to 12 cm.
10 cm from 12 is 83%.
Calculation: 10/12*100=83
This means that the pattern needs to be reduced in width to 83% of the original. For example, with a hip circumference of 104 cm, we create a skirt pattern with a volume of 86.32 cm.
Calculation: 104*83%=86.32

Another important point when sewing from knitwear. When stretched in width, the knitwear is shortened in length. The stronger the tension is planned, the more you add to the length of the pattern. This can also be clarified experimentally: stretch the canvas widthwise (in a hanging position), measure the length before and after stretching.

If we are sewing a top, dress, etc., please note that in tight-fitting models, the neckline and armholes can greatly increase in size when put on the figure. Therefore, you need to cut them out minimally, just to fit, and then check the dimensions on the figure.

Sewing from knitwear often causes difficulties - the sewing machine skips stitches. This happens when working with dense materials - the needle in such knitwear does not move freely, “sticks” to the material, “pulls” it along with it, and does not slide.

As a result, the stitch formation mechanism does not work.
Therefore, for sewing you need to use special needles for knitwear. These needles have a rounded point that does not pierce the threads of the material, but pushes them apart.

This makes sewing easier, helps to avoid thread breaks at puncture sites and the formation of “arrows”. Such an error can hopelessly ruin the item, and it will not be noticeable immediately, but during wear.

If the machine skips stitches even with a knitting needle, you will have to get creative. Try changing the needle (needles of different thicknesses behave differently), change the threads - they can also affect the quality of the seam. Another option is to place strips of paper under the foot along the seam and stitch along it. It's labor-intensive, but the seam turns out well. The paper is easily removed.

Knitted seams

Naturally, when sewing knitwear, elastic seams must be used. Otherwise, the product will be pulled at the seams and in the future the threads in the seams will break.

Our main goal is to achieve elasticity of the seams. Every modern machine has elastic stitching. The simplest type is zigzag. Choose a small zigzag width - 1-2 mm, medium step - 2-3 mm.

You can sew knitwear with a regular straight stitch. In this case, during sewing, the material should be fed under the foot in a slightly stretched state. One hand holds the knitwear in front of the foot, the other - behind the foot, while the knitwear is stretched. This can also be done with the fingers of your left hand.

The final stitch should be soft and not tight. The thread tension needs to be adjusted so that the stitch does not pull, but does not loop. In any case, you need to fine-tune the machine by testing different stitches on scraps of knitwear.

To hem the bottom of the product, use a double needle. It gives a double stitch on the front side, and a zigzag on the back side. The seam turns out to be elastic, similar to a stitching stitch.

In general, the edges of the product can be processed in different ways. For example, finish the bottom of the skirt with a tight zigzag, or sew the hem with some decorative stitch available on your machine. The bottom of the sleeves can be finished with narrow cuffs, saving you from processing the hem.

You can also use the property of knitwear to curl along the cuts. We cut out the strips of knitwear so that their longitudinal edges curl towards each other. We adjust these stripes from the front side along the edges of the product (neck, bottom of sleeves, etc.) so that the processed cut is ultimately not visible. We lay a line in the center of the strip, straightening the curled edges.

When sewing warm, voluminous or thick fabric-like knitwear, the hem of the bottom can be done with a blind seam by hand.

Consider ready-made things - you may see an unexpected solution.

This article provides the construction of pattern drawings for several styles of skirts at once. These are such popular styles among all women as a straight classic skirt (pencil skirt), a half-sun skirt cut on an oblique, and the widest skirt model at the bottom - a circle skirt. Recommendations are given for constructing a pattern for a flared skirt consisting of several wedges, as well as advice on how to calculate and place tucks on the pleated skirt.

Measurements for creating a pattern and fabric consumption

To create a drawing, you will need to take only three measurements: waist circumference; hip girth; skirt length. But keep in mind that their half values ​​are used to construct the drawing, except for length measurements. Half measurements of the waist and hips are designated St, Sat, respectively, half waist and hip girth.
To make the skirt pattern as accurate as possible, you need to take these measurements correctly, so if you have any difficulties, you can see the site’s article How to take measurements for a dress. It shows in detail and clearly how to take measurements for a skirt.

Do not forget that when sewing any clothes, when constructing a drawing of the pattern details, it is necessary to make allowances for loose fit in the calculations, which in these calculations are designated Pt, Pb, etc.

The fabric consumption for sewing a skirt depends, first of all, on the volume of the hips and, secondly, on the chosen style of the skirt. So girls whose hips exceed 130 cm will have to buy two lengths of fabric even for sewing a straight skirt. Up to 130cm, one skirt length plus allowances for hem and waistband is sufficient. As for the style of the skirt, for example, a circle skirt may require 5 meters of fabric with a width of 150cm. Be prepared for this, and you will find out more accurate fabric consumption when you create a skirt pattern.

To construct the drawing of this straight pattern, the following measurements were used: St = 38cm, Sat = 52cm, Di = 54cm. Increases Pt = 1cm, Pb = 1cm.

Before you start building a pattern, prepare paper, pencils, a ruler, a felt-tip pen, tape and scissors. The pencil should be soft, a felt-tip pen is useful for marking dots and main lines, and tape is convenient to use for gluing paper. See How to make a pattern and other tips for beginners.

To create a straight skirt pattern, it is convenient to use graph paper. The paper grid allows you to quickly and accurately draw basic lines. You can use another type of paper (tracing paper), but in any case, first build a right angle with the vertex T.

Hip line level for typical and similar individual figures: TB = 19.5 cm.
Bottom line level TN = Di = 54cm. From the obtained points T, H, B, horizontal lines are drawn at a distance of 53 cm and points T1, H1, B1 are placed. This distance is determined by the formula Sb + Pb = 52 + 1 = 53 cm.

Now the pattern mesh needs to be divided in half, into the front of the skirt and the back. The vertical line passes through point B2, calculated by the formula BB2 = (Sb + Pb)/2 - 1 = 25.5 cm.
For full figures with a large belly, the back and front panels of the skirt are designed to be the same width.

From point T2, set aside 1-1.5 cm upward and make a mark. Now you need to set aside 3.5 cm segments from the same point to the left and right and draw the upper part of the side line of both halves of the skirt and the slightly raised part of the waist line with a smooth line.

The amount of darts is calculated using the formula (Sat + Pb) - (St + Fri) = (52 - 1) - (38 + 1) = 14cm. This amount is divided by two and two darts will be 7cm. Moreover, the back dart will be larger than the front in the following proportion: back - 14/3 = 4.7 cm, and front 14/6 = 2.3 cm (4.7 + 2.3 = 7).
The position of the back dart is determined by the formula BB3 = 0.4 x BB2 = 0.4 x 25.5 = 10.2 cm.
The position of the front dart B1B4 = 0.4 x B1B2 = 0.4 x 27.5 = 11cm.
The back dart ends 4-5cm above the hip line, the front dart ends 10cm above the hip line.

The narrowing of the skirt is 1-2 cm, they are evenly placed to the right and left of the H2 point.

For freedom of movement, slits, folds, and slits are often made on the back panel of the skirt. In order for the fold to lie better, the middle line of the back panel is slightly retracted (red outline).

Measurements for drawing a skirt: St = 38cm, Sat = 52cm, Di = 80cm.

Let's consider two options for conical skirts: half-sun and sun. The main difference between such skirts widened towards the bottom is that they form beautiful and soft tails that lie evenly around the circle of the skirt. This effect appears due to the cutting of the fabric along an oblique line.

To create a pattern for such a skirt, it is not necessary to use paper. The pattern of a circle skirt or a circle skirt can be created directly on the fabric. See Semi-sun skirt pattern on fabric.

First, draw a right angle with the vertex at point O. From point O, a segment OT is laid down vertically, equal to the half-waist circumference multiplied by K (coefficient), which is equal for half-sun skirts - 0.64, and for full-sun skirts - 0 ,32.

Circle skirt: OT = 38 x 0.32 = 12.2 cm.
Half-sun skirt: OT = 38 x 0.64 = 24.3 cm.

From point T, a segment TB is laid down vertically, equal to an average of 19.5 cm.
From the same point T, lay down a segment equal to the length of the skirt, and place a point H.
For a half-sun skirt, from point O with radius OT, draw an arc until it intersects with the second side of the right angle at point T1, and with radius equal to OH, draw a bottom line HH1.

The circle skirt is built on a straight line, in the middle of which point O is marked. Coefficient K = 0.32.
Setting aside the segment OT = 0.32 x St = 12.2 cm on a straight line, draw a semicircle TT1 from point O with this radius.
From point T, lay a segment TN equal to the length of the skirt. From point O with a radius equal to OH, draw an arc HH1 - the bottom line.

Skirts cut on the bias must be left hanging for several days so that they stretch and take a permanent shape.
After this, the length of the skirt is adjusted to fit the figure. The bottom of the skirt is leveled from the floor using a ruler.

Pattern construction and modeling of flared skirts (gode)

St = 38cm, Sat = 52cm, Di = 80cm. Fri = 1cm, Pb = 2cm.

Di = 80 cm is set aside from point T and point H is placed.
From the same point T, a segment TB = 19.5 cm is laid off, which determines the line of the hips. Horizontal lines are drawn through points B, H, T.

Now you need to calculate the width of the wedge along the waist and hips. Most often, these skirts have a tight fit around the waist and hips.
T1T2 = (St + Pb)/n = (38 + 1)/2 = 19.5 cm (for a four-piece skirt), where n is the number of wedges in half size, since the calculation is based on the half-circumference of the hips.

Т1Т2 = (38 + 1)/3 = 12.7 cm (for a six-blade).
On the resulting segments, there should be a point T in the center.

The width of the wedge along the hip line is calculated using the formula: B1B2 = (Sb + Pb)/n = (52 + 2)/3 = 18cm, where BB1 ​​= BB2.

The width of the wedge at the bottom is taken according to the skirt model.
The side line is formed by a smooth line.

The waist line is designed as follows.
Segments TT1 and TT2 are divided in half, and perpendiculars are drawn from these points to the extended sides of the wedge. The waist line is drawn with a smooth line slightly raised at the edges (0.5 - 0.7 cm).
The sides of the wedge are equalized using the TN segment, that is, its sides are equal to the length of this central segment.

To build a wedge for a year skirt, first find a level from which to make an additional expansion.
The sides of the wedge are once again equalized after additional construction of the expanded part of the year-skirt. KN = K2N2 = K1N1.
The wedge of the godet skirt is designed symmetrically with respect to the vertical line of the TN on all parts of the godet skirt.

The pleated skirt pattern has the following measurements: St = 38cm, Sat = 52cm, Di = 54cm, Fri = 1cm, Pb = 3cm. This pattern is suitable for a girl with dimensions and height 164-96-104.
There can be any number of folds. This skirt model has 10 pleats.

In order to determine the distance between the folds along the hip line, it is necessary to make the following calculations:
((Sb + Pb) x 2)/n where n is the number of folds. ((52 + 3)x2)/10 = 110/10 = 11cm.

The distance between the folds along the waist line is determined in the same way:
((St + Fri) x 2)/ n = 7.8 cm.

The depth of the fold at the bottom should be at least 3cm (in this case, let's take 5cm). To prevent the folds from opening, you need to make a 1-2cm bevel on each side of the fold from the hip line to the bottom line.
The longer the length of the skirt, the greater the bevel, the more widened at the bottom this skirt will look.

If the construction of the skirt is carried out directly on the fabric, you can pre-process the bottom of the product. A circle pleated skirt often requires two lengths of fabric. In this case, the stitching seams must be located in the inner fold of the fold.

Construct a right angle with the vertex at point T. From point T, the hip level is plotted vertically: TB = 19.5 cm.
From point T, a segment TN is laid down, which is equal to the length of the product: TN = Di = 54 cm.
Horizontal lines are drawn to the right of points B and H. Line TN - fold line or seam inside the fold.
From point B, lay down the depth of the fold, which is equal to 6 cm (5 cm + 1 cm): BB1 = 6 cm.
Next, set aside the distance between the folds along the hip line: B1B2 = 11cm.
Find the middle of the fold:
B1B11 = B11B2 = B1B2/2 = 11/2 = 5.5 cm.
The middle of the fold coincides with the lobar thread.

A vertical line is drawn through point B11. The intersection with the bottom and waist line is indicated by points H11 and T11.
From point T11 to the right and left, segments are laid equal to: the distance between the folds divided by two. That is, 7.8/2 = 3.9 cm.
Equal segments are laid from point H11: (B1B2/2) + 1 = 5.5 + 1 = 6.5 cm.
The resulting points are connected by straight lines. Next, a segment equal to two fold depths is laid along the hip line, and the entire construction of the skirt pattern is repeated.

READY PATTERN FOR FREE.

Feminine, elegant, moderately sexy and equally strict - all these qualities in a woman will be fully expressed and emphasized by a PENCIL SKIRT.

Today, a pencil skirt can be made from a wide variety of materials, including leather, velvet, silk, knitted and lace fabric, etc. Any color! And if earlier FASHION insistently recommended wearing a pencil skirt only with high-heeled shoes, now the same fashion claims that a pencil skirt goes well with low-soled shoes.

In previous articles we presented you with several options for different sizes, today is another proposal on the same topic.

READY PATTERN FOR FREE.

READY PATTERN FOR FREE.

Pencil skirt is a kind of lifesaver for women of any age, of any build. Nowadays it has many faces like never before. Depending on the length, the presence of reliefs or other design elements, the material, finishing, etc., a pencil skirt can be completely different and appropriate in a variety of situations.

Finished pattern pencil skirts with two reliefs on the front panel, on the back panel there is a middle seam into which a zipper is sewn. In the same seam at the bottom of the skirt there can be a slit, vent, fold or flounce. We deliberately do not mark any marks on the pattern of the back panel and do not give any allowances, leaving the right of choice to you. Allow allowance for processing according to your decision.

How to create a skirt pattern for a specific figure based on your measurements(step-by-step instructions) can be viewed.

Modeling a pencil skirt described earlier in several versions.

A “godet” style skirt is an emphasis on femininity and showiness.

A year-over skirt fits perfectly into a work environment and may well look like a participant in a New Year's ball. It all depends on the design decision and the choice of fabric.

Today our attention is directed to girls and women whose girth exceeds certain conventions, called the standard.

Therefore our ready-made skirt pattern suitable for ladies with waist circumference 89cm, hip circumference 116cm.

The proposed “godet” style skirt consists of eight wedges, with pockets and a stitched belt. The length of the skirt is 76 cm.

Preparing the pattern for work is extremely simple.

Click on the diagram located at the end of the article and skirt pattern opens in a new window.

Print out the pattern sheets, cut and connect them according to the diagram.

In our wardrobe, among many different outfits, there are long-lived items.

Their usefulness and necessity have been tested by time. One of these things includes a skirt.

Classic straight skirt with vent at the back(instead of a slot there may be a fold or a cut). With a skillfully selected length, it will suit any woman.

Today we are paying attention to girls with curves. This ready-made pattern for a classic straight skirt with a vent at the back.