Amazing leather products or how I started working with leather. Working with leather: types of work, tools and technologies Leather working techniques

Greetings to all, dear needlewomen! Have you ever seen original, beautiful, sometimes surprising in their design -? This includes various jewelry and unique clothing items. Also, do you know about the existence of decorative leather finishing? But this is a whole art, needlewomen who know how to work with leather were real craftswomen and were always highly valued among the people. I have always been very attracted to leather as a material, of course I I decided to master this type of needlework and I already have some experience in this matter. So, I want to tell you how and when I came to work with leather. Suddenly this activity will interest you too.

It all started with retirement. I never thought that in retirement life takes on a completely different side. Going to collect certificates from the social security service to apply for a pension, and most importantly, the category in which I will now belong - “pensioner”, horrified me. What will I do at home?! Well, a house, a household, a husband, children, grandchildren, but what for the soul? After the active work of the teacher, when you give all your best with preparations for lessons, notes, notebooks, extracurricular work, preparation of visuals. Gray, monotonous everyday life began, depression, thoughts that no one needed me. There is no need to get up early and run to work, dress up, and prepare for lessons. The everyday quagmire begins to suck you in so much that it is difficult to extricate yourself from it.

On one of these days, my sister came and showed me her new work - leather jewelry. She retired before me and immediately started doing handicrafts: , crafts, leather jewelry. Her husband, jokingly, calls her “Nature’s Orderly,” because she doesn’t pass by some twisted branch or crushed furry cone, she puts everything into action.

Although I myself have been sewing for a long time, and these are also my hobbies, I have never been involved in making jewelry, and even from leather, I thought that I was not capable of such a thing. Her work delighted and surprised me so much that I was also inspired by this idea. , several more are no worse, each with different curls and decorated with rhinestones, collected from them for a necklace - stood before my eyes for a long time. Light in weight, elegant, painted ivory, it looked elegant, well-made and expensive.

Since I sew, I understood how the flowers were assembled, but how to make the edges of the petals round and look like plastic? You can't just do that with scissors. It was then that my sister revealed the secret: I cut out flowers, “fry” them in a frying pan, paint them, and collect them. I was shocked by the simplicity of the work. At that time, I did not yet know the properties of leather during heat treatment. Then, of course, I read and studied a lot about leather and working with it. Fortunately, there are books, and much can be found on the Internet. I couldn’t help but try this, there is always leather in the house: old bags, belts, jackets, jackets, skirts, trousers. Moreover, it has been planned for a long time - it’s really time to say goodbye to some things. Leave what you need, everything made of leather, and put the rest in your suitcase and...

At that time, there were no tools (except scissors), no paints, or glue at hand at home. But the desire to try to do something similar leather flowers, was the strongest. When the first batch of “fried flowers” ​​came out, I felt such pleasure and joy - IT WORKED!

A little about skin.

The oldest noble material mastered by mankind is the skin of cattle, pigs, sheep, horses, goats. For a long time, leather has served people faithfully: clothes, shoes, jewelry, paintings, crafts. At all times there were not so many leather craftsmen and leather working methods they kept them secret, passing them on only through kinship. Therefore, as I already said, leather craftsmen have always been valued and treated with great respect. The wealth of expressive properties of leather is amazing. It goes well with delicate chiffon and nylon, with thick drape and metal, various stones and fur, feathers and beads, creating all sorts of decorative effects of matching and contrast. In work it is pliable, elastic and pleasant. Not complicated homemade leather jewelry Any woman can do this, you don’t have to be an experienced craftsman. All you need is desire and a creative mood.

The most necessary tools.

It must be said that leather working tools are expensive (from $30 to $700) and cannot always be found on sale. But to get started, you can purchase it by visiting handicraft store.

The most popular one is the hole puncher.

Sharp tailor's scissors, small manicure scissors, curly scissors.

A construction or stationery knife, replacement blades, a shoe knife (only it needs to be sharpened often).

Metal wide ruler.

Tweezers (hold parts during heat treatment).

Flat surface for cutting strips and cords. Kitchen plastic boards and modeling boards will do.

Tools for flowers (photo 2).

Hot glue gun, PVA glue, Moment glue.

An old style frying pan or candle.

Acrylic paints.

I have listed only the minimum necessary tools for working with leather. Almost all of them are in every home. This is enough to get started. Of course, if you do embossing and engraving on leather, then you can’t do without various punches, stamps, and a vice.

How to prepare your skin for work.

Washing leather.

Open old, used leather clothing, clean the seams from threads, remove gaskets and zippers. Rub dirty areas with a washcloth or brush. Soak the skin for 15-20 minutes in warm water with soap suds, add 50 grams of salt per liter of water, a little table vinegar (for elasticity). Suede can be washed in warm water with ammonia added or in warm milk with baking soda added.

Drying the skin.

You can dry the skin between old newspapers or rags under a press so that they can absorb moisture. When newspapers or rags get wet, they can be replaced with flat plates so that the skin dries and is smooth and even. While the skin is slightly damp, lubricate it with castor oil, adding a little ammonia to it. I even lubricate the skin with simple vegetable oil. Or make a mixture of warm water and butter, add ammonia. Apply with a brush or soft cloth. Make sure that the skin does not become too oily. Take the leather in your hands, remember it, it is elastic and ready to work.

As you can see, it's not all that complicated. Take heart, dear needlewomen! Start with the simplest things. The skin is so addictive that you won’t notice how you move from a simple product to a complex one, you start looking new ideas. And this hobby can develop into a business. In any case, there will be no more problems with gifts for family and friends. Paintings, jewelry, leather crafts are always expensive, beautiful and last a long time. Good luck to all of you in your creativity!

We all know that leather is a wonderful material for making quality shoes and outerwear, as well as various bags, gloves, jewelry and much more. In this article we will look at the basic tools for working with leather yourself. Since the first clothes of our ancestors were the skins of the animals they killed, the method of sewing clothes from natural materials remained practically unchanged. But what tools does modern industry offer us for making leather goods ourselves?

Devices for marking leather

Before making any marks, the leather flap must be leveled, stretched on the work surface and carefully secured.

Important! Avoid drawing patterns with chalk, because leather is an expensive material, and marking in this way will not be accurate enough.

There are special two-color pencils for working with leather; if you don’t have these, you can use a marker, felt-tip pen or regular pen.

Important! Don't forget that you are dealing with non-waste material. Even small pieces of leather material can come in handy someday.

What is sanding?

Sanding is an important and delicate process that can give the leather the thickness you need. At the junctions of parts, you need to evenly reduce the density of the material, but if you do not have material of the required thickness, you will have to sand its entire surface.

Important! It is advisable to learn this on small scraps of leather left after cutting the product, because in case of an error, you don’t mind throwing them away after use.

For such work, you will need a special tool for working with leather with your own hands - a plexiglass stand, which must be placed on the table approximately like a school notebook - at an angle to the edge of the table of about 70 degrees:

• The skin lies on the tile with the side up, and is located closer to the front and right edges; press it tightly with the fingers of your left hand.
• With your little finger, ring and middle fingers, grab the knife from below, place your thumb against the end, and press the tool with your index finger from the top in the center.
• The knife blade, index finger and forearm should be in one line during the sanding process.
• Work should begin from the edges, gradually moving away from you.
• The knife should be held with a slight tilt to the right.
• Cut thin layers of skin: to do this, move the knife parallel to the surface of the plate.

Important! Do not place the fingers of your left hand in front of the knife - this can easily cut you.

• When doing this type of work, first cut off the long edges, then the short ones, and lastly, if necessary, the middle.

Important! This may be difficult for beginners, but with experience and a good tool for working with your own skin, the procedure will not require much physical effort.

• Manufactured products can be coated with varnish, shoe polish, mastic or beeswax. To apply them, use a special sponge or soft cloth, and then polish the surface with a piece of flannel, which will protect the future product from contamination.

Important! To fix the color of a painted product, it is recommended to cover it with a layer of leather varnish or egg yolk.

How to cut the material?

Sharp scissors and a knife will help you successfully cut leather materials. For this purpose, you can use a shoemaker's, wallpaper or stationery knife; a medical scalpel is also suitable. You need to have at least three pairs of scissors:

• To cut straight lines or cut thick leather - tailor's large ones.
• For curves, use medium-sized scissors.
• For cutting out small details, use small manicure tools.

Important! It is best to start cutting with straight lines, because with a knife you can cut while the leather is secured, and then, after detaching it, you can cut it along the curves.

Today, there are special kits of tools for sewing leather with your own hands on sale, which can be purchased as a complete set.

How to stitch leather?

Working with leather at home may involve sewing products in one of two options:

• manual;
• mechanical.

Sewing leather mechanically

Enterprises engaged in the professional production of leather products have special sewing machines. Such equipment is more powerful than conventional home analogues, and is also equipped with two, three, and tetrahedral needles.

One of the most important problems of home sewing is the fact that the leather does not slide well under the foot, because this can lead to distortions, folds, and thread breaks. Some craftswomen try to deal with such problems on their own using the following tricks:

• lubricate the skin with soap;
• put newspaper on it;
• pulling the material by the edge.

In this way they are trying to help the sewing machine. However, our advice to you is not to skimp on small things, but buy a special roller foot and a set of faceted needles. Such devices will help protect your product from unnecessary problems and make working with leather with your own hands pleasant and convenient.

Hand sewing leather

The sewing method depends on the material you are going to process:

• if the leather material is dense, use an awl or shoe hook;
• if it is thinner leather, you can use a regular sewing needle.

Important! To protect your hands, do not forget to use a thimble.

Also, special attention should be paid to the choice of threads, because not every thread is suitable for processing leather. So, it is worth abandoning the use of cheap synthetic or nylon materials. It is best to use cotton or linen threads.

Skin bonding technology

Proper skin bonding is carried out in several stages:

1. First the cleaning is done.
2. The material is degreased.
3. The required layer of glue is applied to the prepared surface of the material.
4. The applied substance must dry.
5. A small amount of adhesive is applied again.
6. The parts are pressed tightly against each other.
7. The glued product is placed under the press for a specified time.

Important! If a tear is found in the material you are using, it can be secured with tape, however, this is only a temporary measure.

Many who are interested in sewing very often have to work with natural and artificial leather. Handmade bags, leather jewelry, various crafts and even leather paintings look very original and stylish. But most often, working with leather involves repairing leather clothing, replacing zippers, restoring torn areas, etc.

There are many books on teaching the technique of sewing natural leather by hand or using a sewing machine, which tell in detail about the purpose of certain tools for working with leather.
I offer only a few basic recommendations that will be useful to anyone who decides to repair a bag, jacket, etc.

Working with leather has many “secrets” and little details that you need to know and take into account. For example, when cutting out paired parts, you need to remember that leather stretches more in the transverse direction than in the longitudinal direction, so paired parts need to be cut in any direction, but only in the same direction.

Do not chip the skin with pins. Punctures leave marks on the leather, and if you change the zipper on a leather jacket or bag or jacket, you can easily see this.

Soft leather can be sewn on a sewing machine using a regular #80 or #90 needle. But for sewing rough leather or thickened areas, a special needle for working with leather is required. Even for hand sewing leather, the leather needle looks special, instead of a point it has a triangular tip.
When sewing leather, the stitch length of a sewing machine should not be too small, since frequent punctures will cause the leather to tear at the joints.

You need to cut the leather with a special shoe knife on a plastic board or plexiglass. You can also use a wooden surface, but then the tip of the knife will cut into the wood.
A shoe knife, rubber glue, adhesive seam enhancers, a thimble, strong synthetic threads and a small hammer with an awl - this is a mandatory kit for any home “furrier” who decides to replace a zipper in a bag or repair a torn section of a leather jacket.

What kind of sewing machine can you use to sew leather?

Not every sewing machine can sew leather; treat your sewing machine with care and do not try to sew thick and rough fabrics, leather products, especially bags. As a last resort, you can use a Podolsk or Singer manual sewing machine, but not modern “seamstresses”, which cost 5 thousand rubles.
To work with leather, special industrial sewing machines are provided or, as a last resort, the instructions should indicate that this machine can be used to sew leather clothes.

If you sew leather on a household sewing machine, be sure to buy special needles and a foot, with a wheel (as in the photo) or a roller. Then the skin under the foot will not “slip” and the machine will easily advance the product without forming a seat on the top layer of leather.

If you don’t have a foot or it doesn’t fit (Podolsk sewing machine), then in order to make the leather move easier under the foot, you can sew it through thin paper, which can then be easily removed.

Sewing machine threads need to be strong and elastic. But only nylon threads (as in this photo) are not intended for machine sewing. They are only used for manual leather work or industrial sewing machines.

Technology of sewing genuine leather and suede

When sewing suede products, you need to take into account the direction of the pile, otherwise the parts will have a different shade.
The leather is ironed from the wrong side with a low-heat iron without steam through a dry cloth.
To prevent the top part from stretching relative to the other, purchase a special foot with a Teflon-coated sole, as in this photo. Teflon feet cost much less than special leather feet.
The ends of the seam threads must be securely fixed with several knots, since machine stitches on leather products do not secure them and therefore they tend to unravel easily.

Working with leather is impossible without glue. The glue is applied with a brush onto a cleaned and degreased surface. Universal adhesives such as PVA and Moment, as well as rubber glue, are very effective.
Repeat the procedure of applying glue several times to thoroughly saturate the skin. At the same time, make sure in advance that the glue is not too liquid, otherwise the skin will get wet.
Set the parts treated with glue aside until the adhesive has dried “to the point of casting”.
After some time, connect the parts together. Place the glued parts under the press. You can even lightly tap these areas with a hammer.
Using a cotton swab or rag, immediately remove excess adhesive solution so that it does not damage the front surface of the leather.

How to install fittings on leather products

Any handmade leather item must be decorated with fittings. Large metal rivets and buttons, buttons, blocks, locks greatly decorate leather goods.
Buttons are sewn to the skin only if there are buttons on the wrong side.
Before punching holes for the buttons, they are strengthened either with pieces of leather or thick adhesive fabric.
Installing buttons requires a special tool. You can get by with homemade devices, but this installation method produces a lot of waste, then purchase more buttons than required.
Before installing a zipper into a leather product, you should secure it. Instead of basting with thread, adhesive tapes or glue are used. Sometimes even ordinary paper clips can “help”.
The edges of the cut skin areas are glued with special skin enhancers (tapes). On one side, a weak adhesive is applied to such a tape.
The puncture with a needle leaves holes, so the seam is done only once. As a last resort, a seam is laid along the old holes.

After finishing working with leather, the appearance of the product can be refreshed.
You can remove marking lines with soap and water and ammonia, then wipe with a cloth moistened with petroleum jelly or glycerin.
Heavily contaminated areas on the skin can be washed with warm, unboiled milk, rubbed with whipped egg white or half an onion.
White skin is cleaned with a mixture of milk and beaten egg white.
Patent leather should be wiped with a cloth soaked in glycerin or cleaned with a swab dipped in milk.
Suede can be cleaned with sawdust soaked in gasoline (the remaining sawdust is cleaned off with a brush), or an ink eraser, as well as fine-grained abrasive paper.
Stains from household grease are removed with gasoline or talc and a solution of oxalic acid. But be careful, you can remove the paint along with the stain.

Leather paint in aerosol packaging is very easy to use: it is sprayed by holding the can at a distance of about 20 cm from the skin and quickly moving it along the surface to be painted. After a ten-minute break, the next layer of paint is applied. This operation continues until the surface of the skin acquires an even and durable color.

Some tips on how to sew and cut clothing items made of leather or suede.
1. Select patterns that do not require planting. Complex shapes in this case are easier to create using construction seams than using darts. In the past, tailors tried to use as few stitch lines as possible on leather goods. Currently, leather production has become thinner and softer and leather products have more seams; often even leather clothing or accessories are sewn from small scraps of leather.

2. Kimono and raglan sleeves are easier to make when sewing leather clothes than set-in sleeves. If you are making a set-in sleeve, measure the increase in fit. It should be no more than 1.5 cm. It is better to make a shirt-cut sleeve, as it has a looser armhole.

3. You must be sure that your patterns are correct. Therefore, it is good to use the pattern that you have already worked with. Or the prepared pattern should be checked on a mock-up made of non-woven material (non-woven fabric without glue) or inexpensive fabric, and only after that it should be marked on the skin and cut.

4. Before cutting the leather, mark holes and thin places on the wrong side of the leather so that you can avoid them when cutting. Carefully lay out the patterns, make sure that the paired parts (right and left shelves, right and left sleeves, etc.) are cut out in a mirror image. Mark contours, lines and marks on the underside of the skin with a ballpoint pen or soft pencil, or a special marking pen. Mark seam and hem allowances. Some marks can be made using notches or adhesive tape. The seam allowances should be the same width, which makes it easier to sew together the cut pieces.

5. Leather stretches in different directions in different ways, so when cutting it is necessary to maintain the same direction of paired and mating parts. When cutting suede, you must follow the direction of the pile. The pile should be directed from top to bottom.

6. The needle leaves puncture marks on the leather, so leather parts are not swept away and stitching seams are not ripped out. To pre-connect the parts, use adhesive tape or paper clips. There is also a special pencil for fixing seams from Guetermann. The pencil does not leave a mark on the sewing machine needle. By the way, glue is a certain problem when sewing. It clogs the eye of the needle, causing gaps in stitches and even thread breaks.

7. Use overstitched, overstitched or covered stitches. You cannot press or press seam allowances like you would on fabric. Instead, they can be glued with rubber glue or another, which remains elastic even after polymerization (drying). There are special adhesives from Rudolfix, as well as NT 2 glue from Gütermann. If you don't have glue, machine stitch the seam allowances in position.

8. It is recommended to use a special interlining for leather LE 420 as a gasket, which is glued with an iron.

9. The fastener is made with a zipper, loops (stitched, overcast and hinged) and buttons. The buttons must be riveted. They are installed in hardware installation workshops.

10. If you do not have such a convenient tool as in this photo, then smooth the seams with the handles of scissors.
First, place the seam allowances from the inside out using short taps and smooth them out. Then do the same on the front side with the seam groove.

11. Working with leather involves ironing the leather with a non-hot iron without steam through a dry cloth from the inside of the product. Before ironing the item, try it on a small piece of leather.
Ironing leather is not recommended because the hot sole of the iron can cause the leather to change its properties, become stiff and shrink in size. But sometimes when working with leather it is necessary to put an adhesive pad. Then you need to iron very carefully and always only on the wrong side, placing an iron pad under the sole of the iron.

Leather is a very interesting material. Due to its organic origin, it has properties that greatly distinguish it from traditional fabric for making clothing. And despite the fact that leather parts are cut and sewn using needles and sewing machines, this material cannot be treated in the same way as woven fabrics!
So, what's wrong can't be done with skin:
1. You cannot iron thin clothing leather, especially with steam! (only ironing with a low-heat iron is allowed) The collagen fibers that make it up are organic and curl up when exposed to high temperatures! As a result, the skin becomes rough, brittle and deformed. But this same property of leather, to curl up from high temperatures, is widely used in decorative work with leather. So, heating the petal of the future flower over the flame, it bends inward and the petal takes on a beautiful convex shape. In addition, blanks for future brooches are fried in a frying pan and even boiled in boiling water. This technique is called "boiling"
2. The skin must not be washed off! No, of course, if you really want to, then who can stop you? But the marks that the needle leaves on the skin when sweeping will remain on it forever. Actually, when sewing on a sewing machine, you need to feel almost like a sapper who makes a mistake only once. It will not be possible to correct a crooked stitch by simply unraveling; the stitch will have an untidy appearance.
3. It is believed that leather cannot be washed. At the same time, fats are washed out and the skin becomes rougher. But this depends both on the skin itself and on the washing solution. Some types of leather are quite tolerant of soft washing in warm water using laundry soap. Then, however, the skin will need to be lubricated with a glycerin solution.
That, in fact, are all the restrictions.

Everything else can be done with the skin. This is such beneficial material! Thanks to the porous structure, leather clothes do not get hot even in summer! And the plasticity and decorativeness of this material leaves enormous scope for imagination.
And so the main question actually arises: “Where can I get the leather?”

In fact, this is not a problem; there are both whole skins and discarded remains on sale. The main thing is to find places where they sell it.)

In addition, leather is a very durable material and lends itself well to restoration. Therefore, you can safely use old jackets, raincoats, boot tops, and gloves. I will not write here about leather restoration. There is material on this topic on the Internet.
Let's dwell on the types of leather.

Leather comes in vegetable and chrome tanning. But chrome is more common. In addition to tanning methods, there are clothing, haberdashery, lining, furniture and shoe leather. Also, by the name of the livestock, they distinguish between bull, sheepskin, goat, pork, calfskin, and other exotic animals.

According to the processing method - suede, split leather, nubuck, perforated, embossed, etc. Also, according to the processing method, there are coated leather (dyed with nitro paint, a relief created by a press) and uncoated leather - dyed, but not additionally processed leather.

Leather has two sides: the face, the actual processed leather part, and the bakhtarma - the underside fleecy part.

Split is a type of leather that is formed when a layer of leather is sawn and divided into two parts. The upper leather part is used for thin clothing leather, and what was cut off is a bakhtarma on both sides. Looks like suede. It is less durable than regular leather and is hygroscopic (permeable to moisture). This is the cheapest type of leather. Used in the haberdashery industry to make bags and as a lining in footwear.

Suede is leather with an additional treated fringe part, due to which it has a beautiful fleecy texture. Unlike split leather, the underside of suede is leather.

Nubuck is a surface (leather) that has been treated in such a way that it becomes a little like suede, the surface becomes somewhat rough. Nubuck, although beautiful, is very capricious in processing. The slightest drop of glue or solvent leaves an irreversible mark on its surface.

There is also a type of leather called chaprak, which is the strongest and thickest leather. It is used to make soldiers' belts, saddles, and harnesses. On such leather, due to its thickness, it is good to use this type of decorative processing such as embossing.

These are not all types of leather, but these are the ones I have encountered
When selling leather, it is measured in square decimeters. That is, the cost is written for a square measuring 10 by 10 cm.
But actually my “combat arsenal” are the tools that I use in my work.

1 Drawing and drawing tools.) The fact is that marking the skin often becomes a real problem. Soap and chalk do not always help, since they are powerless on patent leather. Markers and pens are only suitable from the inside out, as they leave indelible marks. And if I need to make markings along the face on glossy leather, an ordinary awl comes to my rescue, and for straight lines, a coping wheel.

For fair skin, such achievements of clerical thought are suitable as a “write-erase” felt-tip pen, one side of which draws a line, the other has a sponge soaked in a substance that erases this line. You can also use disappearing fabric markers. Well, for the lines on the back I use a simple pencil, a ballpoint pen, a rollerball pen, markers of different colors (it all depends on the looseness of the bakhtarma, the looser it is, the more difficult it is to draw a clear line and only markers can save you)
2 Piercing and cutting instruments:

A knife with a beveled blade is indispensable when working with leather. It is used for sanding (cutting off excess thickness). A shoe knife is used for the same purpose; it has a one-sided sharpening, so that the lower part of the leather is not cut through when sanding.
Utility knives are used for straight cutting, such as cutting strips of leather. A circular knife is used for the same purpose. If you master working with it, you can cut leather more smoothly
Scalpels - standard and small (eye) - are used for incisions, incisions, finer scaling, and also for cutting out patterns on the skin.
Tailor's scissors are used for figure cutting. For example, blanks for flowers. Nail scissors are designed for curly cutting of small parts.
Awl for marking and punching holes in leather
Sewing tools

A leather needle differs from a sewing needle in that it has a pointed tip, rather than a blunt one, similar to a miniature blade. Due to this, such a needle does not push apart, but cuts through the fibers of the leather and the leather is sewn much easier. And this rectangle, the same sticker on the foot that allows the foot to slide over the skin when sewing, is an alternative to the fluoroplastic foot. And I personally like her better. And this is my regular foot with this sticker on the back.
Additional tools.

Cutting board. It is a wooden board with a piece of linoleum glued onto it. It is better to cut leather on linoleum. Better yet, purchase a special cutting mat. My arms can’t reach it, or rather my legs can’t reach it...to the store)).) A piece of tile is used for polishing. For this operation, a perfectly flat, smooth and hard surface is simply necessary. Tools for sharpening knives. The knife must always be sharp and must be sharpened frequently during the process.
By the way, sanding is one of the main operations and it is imperative to master it. The fact is that the leather material is quite thick and these transitions in thickness, when one part is superimposed on another, are hidden; if we thin out the combined edges, the product looks much neater and often the transitions are almost invisible. In addition, when sewing bags made of thick leather, it is simply necessary to sand down all the stitched allowances, otherwise the seams will not take on the desired appearance. Well, in the case when you need to bend the edge of the leather, it will be easy to do if the edge becomes thinner than the main part. To scarf, place a piece of leather on a smooth surface and with a special knife, at an angle of 45 degrees, in the direction away from you, begin to cut off the bakhtarma, holding the piece of leather with the other hand. If the knife is sharp, then this operation will not cause any particular difficulties. This is what it roughly looks like

Tools for installing fittings. Pliers for installing eyelets. Designed for eyelet size 4 mm. Alas, I’m still only dreaming about a press for installation.

Manual punches. 2 are homemade, and one 8mm one I bought at Gamma. Punching pliers are used to punch holes in fabric and leather. Dimensions vary up to 6 mm.

Here are the Holniten fittings themselves, eyelets.

Holsters are installed to secure parts. In jeans pockets to secure seams, on bag handles. They often have a purely decorative “decorative” function. There are double-sided (a decorative cap on both sides) and one-sided (the second side of the leg does not have a cap). Eyelets consist of two parts: the eyelet itself and a fixing ring, which is placed on the inside and additionally supports the eyelet from falling out ) To install one-sided holniten you can do without a special press, just a hammer and a teaspoon. We place a teaspoon down under the cap of the holniten so as not to deform it upon impact, and hit the flat part with a hammer.
In addition, to work with leather, soft plastic wire is sometimes necessary. I use copper wire and various beading wires

And these are biting-grasping instruments. Or simply put, wire cutters (for cutting wire), round-nose pliers (for twisting it into rings), and pliers for all other supporting, pulling and squeezing operations.

And this is a device for burning. In essence, it’s an ordinary soldering iron, but it has several attachments that allow you to make lines of different thicknesses, and a couple of ready-made stamps. I don’t use this demonic machine very often, but it is irreplaceable when processing edges and holes on dark leather.

The leather can be painted with acrylic paints, but not in a thick layer, to avoid future cracks, and covered with matte or glossy acrylic varnish. But it is best to paint the leather with car paints from a spray can, which are sold in hardware stores. This coloring turns out, firstly, even, secondly, more durable than painting with acrylic, and thirdly, elasticity is maintained. One disadvantage compared to acrylic is the terrible smell of such paint, and therefore work with it only in a ventilated area. Well, it is better to paint the product according to the result of the work, because many paints will not withstand heat treatment, which is very often used in leather decor.

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