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Culture and traditions of Portugal. Portuguese folk costume

National clothes Portuguese is colorful and varied. The main features of the women's folk costume - wide skirt saya (saia), usually striped or checkered, with a border along the lower edge; an apron of red, yellow, green or black; blouse (usually white) with long sleeves(in festive costume- embroidered); corsage or bolero; shoulder cape; white stockings and shoes with wooden soles, without backs, with heels.

A scarf is an integral part women's clothing. There are several ways to wear it: it is tied under the chin or so that the three ends converge at the crown; sometimes its ends are tucked up, and sometimes it hangs down the back.

Traditional men's suit constitute short trousers calsas with spats, shirt, waistcoat and wide belt (faixa), round felt or felt hat with wide brim - sombreiro (sombreiro). The homespun costume of the early 19th century has almost disappeared, but capa de houras, a brown woolen cloak with a hood trimmed with felt ornaments, is still worn.

Residents various districts there are differences in clothing. The costumes of the women of the Minho province are the richest and most colorful. A mandatory accessory for a Minho bride's outfit is a black or dark blue velvet or woolen skirt. It is adorned with gold trim. On the head - white lace scarf. The groom wears a light gray or black formal suit and a red flannel vest with silver buttons.

The peasant girls of Vila Franca de Xira (Tajo River Basin) wear a short white skirt over which a red flannel skirt is worn.

By Sundays they wear white skirts of a smooth cut, they put on a short apron; a bright scarf is tied with a knot under the chin. With the onset of cold weather, a huge dark-colored shawl serves as a cloak, covering almost the entire figure of the girl.

In the same area, peasants wear tight-fitting breeches, white shirt with frills and a double-breasted scarlet front flannel waistcoat. On the head is a green cap knitted with a stocking barrete verde, which gave the name to the holiday in Alcosheti. When it rains, they put on a sheepskin coat. Wealthy peasants prefer the Andalusian costume: tight-fitting trousers, short jacket and wide hat, which are worn in Cordoba.

The girls of Coimbra, a university city, wear a modest suit and a black headscarf around their heads with a knot around their necks.

The clothes of the population of fishing villages, as well as their way of life, are very original. On weekdays, men wear black knitted caps, shirts and trousers made of large-sized fabric. Women wear round black hats with small brim, black shawls tied tightly under the chin. On weekdays, fisherwomen go barefoot or in boots with wooden soles. On holidays, they wear leather or velvet-trimmed mules boots. Modern clothes townspeople is not distinguished by national color, although it bears the stamp of conservatism. Secular women wear in Portugal black dress. Even in hot weather you will not see them on the street without gloves.

The national clothes of the Portuguese are colorful and varied. The main features of the women's folk costume are the wide saya skirt ( Saia ), usually striped or checkered, with a border along the lower edge; an apron of red, yellow, green or black; a blouse (usually white) with long sleeves (embroidered in a festive costume); corsage or bolero; shoulder cape; white stockings and shoes with wooden soles, without backs, with heels.

A scarf is an integral part of women's clothing. There are several ways to wear it: it is tied under the chin or so that the three ends converge at the crown; sometimes its ends are tucked up, and sometimes it hangs down the back.

The traditional men's costume is made up of short pants. calsas with leggings, shirt, vest and wide belt (faixa ), a round felt or felt hat with wide brim - sombreiro ( sombreiro ). The homespun suit that existed at the beginning of the 19th century has almost disappeared, but the sara is still worn de hours - a brown woolen cloak with a hood trimmed with felt ornaments.

The inhabitants of different regions have preserved differences in clothing. The costumes of the women of the Minho province are the richest and most colorful. A mandatory accessory for a Minho bride's outfit is a black or dark blue velvet or woolen skirt. It is adorned with gold trim. On the head is a white lace scarf. The groom wears a light gray or black formal suit and a red flannel vest with silver buttons.

The peasant girls of Vila Franca de Xira (Tajo River Basin) wear a short white skirt over which a red flannel skirt is worn.

On Sundays they wear white skirts of a smooth cut, they put on a short apron; a bright scarf is tied with a knot under the chin. With the onset of cold weather, a huge dark tones a shawl covering almost the entire figure of a girl.

In the same area, peasants wear tight-fitting breeches, a white frilled shirt, and a double-breasted flannel waistcoat scarlet in front. On the head is a green knitted cap barretes Verde , which gave the name to the holiday in Alkosheti. When it rains, they put on a sheepskin coat. Wealthy peasants prefer the Andalusian costume: tight-fitting trousers, a short jacket and a wide hat, which are worn in Córdoba.

The girls of Coimbra, a university city, wear a modest suit and a black headscarf around their heads with a knot around their necks.

The modern clothes of the townspeople do not differ in national color, although they bear the stamp of conservatism. Secular women in Portugal wear a black dress. Even in hot weather you will not see them on the street without gloves.

Family and social life

In the cities of Portugal, families often consist of three to four people, in the villages - from seven to eight and even ten people. Usually elderly parents live under the same roof with children who already have families of their own.

Marriages in Portugal are early. Celibacy is a rather rare occurrence. Girls are taught needlework and caring for babies, they instill accuracy and thrift. In villages, boys from childhood work with their parents in the fields, and in cities, if parents are short of money, they start looking for work early. Communication between young men and girls is very constrained.

The peasants and fishermen preserved a preliminary agreement of their parents about marriage, quite long period courtship - patogo. The betrothed exchange traditional gifts: rings, roses, handkerchiefs embroidered with a heart and the names of lovers.

A church wedding ceremony is required. In many places, guests and relatives are accompanied to church along with the young and a cortege with the bride's dowry. wedding ceremonies, however, in last years become less picturesque. Church marriages registered without civil formalities. Divorces are prohibited.

The position of women in the family is unequal. Without the consent of her husband, she cannot dispose of her share of property, travel abroad, since the authorities will not issue her a passport unless she has her husband's written permission, certified in an official manner.

Public life in Portugal is built on the basis of the corporate system copied by the Salazarists from Mussolini. Dictator Salazar has unlimited power and rules the country with the help of a political police modeled on the Gestapo.

The constitution proclaims freedom of organization, but all must be approved by the government. Associations and organizations in Portugal are required to tell the authorities where their boards or committees are located, provide copies of their statutes and lists of members, and provide other details about themselves “for the benefit of state security". Contacts with foreign organizations are not permitted without government approval.

There is only one legal party in the country - the National Union, the rest can only operate underground. The elections to the National Assembly are organized in such a way that the opposition has no chance of success.

Salazar's favorite brainchild is the Portuguese Legion. It is a paramilitary organization created two months after the outbreak of the Spanish Civil War "to defend the corporate state from communism."

Salazar's organization Portuguese Youth, founded in 1936, unites children up to 14 years of age. Membership is mandatory. Every Saturday and Wednesday, boys and girls attend meetings where they are biasedly told about the history of the Portuguese Empire, about the dictator Salazar. Education is coming in a religious spirit.

The activities of student organizations are allowed only with the permission of the Ministry of Education. Elected leading figures of student organizations, including scouts, can also hold their posts only with the consent of the ministry. For supervision, a teacher is attached to student organizations, who, as a rule, is an informer of the Salazar Okhrana.

Trade unions, membership in which is mandatory, are divided into three main categories: 1) organizations of workers in various industries; 2) business associations ( gremios ) and 3) organizations of doctors, lawyers and engineers. This structure does not cover civil servants and people who are not employed, including peasants .

Workers pay contributions to the trade union fund for health insurance and unemployment, since the state does not provide such benefits. About 400 thousand agricultural workers, small and medium peasants are united in people's houses from which they receive benefits on the same basis. Fishermen are united in the so-called Houses of Fishermen. Their leadership is appointed by the government.

In the villages of northern Portugal, in the provinces of Traz-os-Montes and Minho, at the beginning of the 20th century. curious social institutions, vestiges of communal life. For example, roads, bridges, sheepfolds were built here together and belonged to the whole village. Pastures were also in public ownership. Cattle were grazed by fellow villagers in turn, the term of shepherding depended on the number of cattle owned by the peasant. If any family, due to the illness of the breadwinner or for some other reason, was unable to cultivate the plot, fellow villagers came to her aid. The duties of the headman were performed in turn by the heads of families. The headman oversaw public property, determined the tax on wine, which went to the needs of the community, and convened a council consisting of the heads of all the families of the village. The sounds of the bugle announced to the fellow villagers about the meeting of this council of elders, which resolved such issues as logging, irrigation, determined the time for harvesting and sending livestock to distant pastures.

Religion

About 93% of the Portuguese are Catholics.

Formally, the church is separated from the state, but in fact it is very closely connected with it and has a great influence on public life. On the eve of World War II, the Salazar government signed an agreement with the Vatican, according to which all public schools are taught according to programs approved by the Vatican, and teachers are appointed only with his consent. A Portuguese official must go to church - this is considered good tone, on this depends his promotion, and possibly the preservation of his place.

And yet the church in Portugal has less financial means than in Spain. There are fewer priests here and they feel more dependent on the Salazar regime than the Spanish Catholic Church from the French dictatorship. Protestants are allowed to worship freely. The highest clergy of the country actively supports the dictatorial regime.

The traditional costumes of some countries are truly adorable! And there are a great many national costumes in the world, even within the country. What to say about big countries from those living in its territory different nations! In addition, costumes have noticeable features depending on the specific region, the position of a person in society, purpose (holiday, wedding and everyday), gender and age. The national costume is something very ambiguous and very interesting, and this topic is extremely wide. Well, we tried to compile a list of countries with the most beautiful national costumes in the world.

Poland

As in many countries, the national costumes of Poland are different for different regions countries. But the most beautiful, in our humble opinion, is the costume of the Krakow district. Woman suit includes white blouse, vest, beaded, a colorful skirt, an apron and a red coral necklace. Not married women and girls can wear a wreath with ribbons, and married women put a white headscarf on their heads. The men's suit is blue vest with embroidery and tassels, striped trousers and a hat decorated with ribbons and peacock feathers.

Russia

Literally every region or republic of Russia can boast of its own national costumes: the traditional outfit of the Chuvash Republic differs from the costume of the neighboring Republic of Mari El, which, in turn, is not at all the same as the costume of the Republic of Tuva. In addition, it is very interesting to trace the history of costume modifications over the past centuries. But in any case, the Russian national costume is a large number of outerwear and interesting elements.

Mongolia

Deli, or degal, - traditional clothing Mongols, which is sewn from cotton, silk or brocade. The degel looks like a long caftan with a standing collar, which is the same for women in its style, and which is worn with a wide silk belt. Dagal is still worn in countryside, in cities it is worn on the occasion of traditional holidays.

China

Majority Chinese men wore black cotton boots, but wealthy people preferred to wear tight black leather boots or very bright, beautiful silk shoes trimmed with leather on the inside. Traditional chinese clothes in broad sense called hanfu, loose clothing such as a sweater and robe with straight wide sleeves and a wrap to the right. Local differences are in details - types of shoes, hats, etc.

Indonesia

The most famous Indonesian national costumes include kebaya, although initially this costume belonged exclusively to the culture of Java and Bali. Kebaya is sewn from silk, thin cotton or translucent nylon or polyester, and is decorated with brocade or embroidery with floral pattern. It is usually worn with a batik sarong or kain panjang. The traditional Indonesian headdress is a truncated cone-shaped songkok made of black felt, cotton or velvet.

Turkey

After 1920, many people in Turkey switched to Western customary dress, although a small part of the population still wears national costumes. The traditional clothing of men consists of a caftan, trousers, slippers and a turban. bright colors. Traditional clothing for women in Turkey includes harem pants, which are worn with outerwear various styles and length. The general female ensemble includes a gyomlek shirt, bloomers and entari (robe).

Portugal

Portuguese traditional costume is varied on regional level. But the main features of the women's folk costume are the wide Saya skirt, usually striped or plaid, with a border along the bottom edge; an apron of red, yellow, green or black; blouse (usually white) with long sleeves (on holidays - embroidered); corsage or bolero; shoulder cape; white stockings and shoes with wooden soles, without backs, with heels. A scarf is put on the head, which is tied either under the chin or so that the three ends converge at the top of the head. The traditional men's costume is short calzas with leggings, a shirt, a vest and a wide belt, as well as a round felt or felt hat - a sombreira. Sometimes a capa de houras is worn, a brown woolen cloak with a felt hood.

Japan

The famous kimono appeared in the 7th-8th centuries and at first it served lower form, but then turned into versatile clothing. Bottom part kimono sleeves formed a kind of hanging pockets, which the Japanese used for small items. The “robe” is wrapped from left to right and tied with an “obi” belt. Another traditional clothing of Japan is the haori, a short straight jacket with wide rectangular sleeves and a stand-up collar, which is connected in front with ribbons. The formal and ceremonial male Japanese costume is called "reifuku", and it consists of a kimono, over which haori and hakama are put on, a trouser skirt with hard folds in front and behind. traditional costume Japanese women consists of a futano skirt made of bleached cotton fabric and "kosimaki" made of more expensive fabric. A shirt "hadadzyuban" made of silk fabric is put on top. Women's kimono was girdled with a very wide obi belt, which is tied back to back.

Par regional de Viana do Castelo

Traditional m folk costume om Portugal considered to be the costume of the northern area "O Migno" , known since eighteenth century. It is also known as "VIANA suit" and is very common among folk groups Portugal.

There are two types of this clothing: one - has an internal source - distributed to COAST MARINA(NAZARE) (the sea coast (Nazare) and another - has an external source - common trends with the folk costume of the Gallegs (Spanish Galicia).
The costume consists of a white linen shirt, a fitted short jacket a (camisole), reaching to the waistline, shawls with fringe crossed at the chest (made of fine wool with a bright pattern, usually yellow and red). The skirt, with numerous embroideries (or without them) on the bottom, is worn over numerous puffy petticoats. They are called "SIETE FALDAS" ("seven skirts").

The outfit is complemented by an embroidered apron. Stockings white color, knitted from threads Perle and embroidered slippers - CHINELAS (typical for Portugal).

This costume has several varietiesdepending on the region. It is also called " LAVRADEIRA.
The simplest - " AFIFE", common on the coast, and more complex - "PORTUCELO" and "PERRE in the central part of the country.
Suit "PORTUCELO", in turn, presented VERMELHO (ROJO) - bright outfit in red colors. This is the most festive costume.

Traje de Afife

Traje de Sta Marta de Portuzelo

Another costume is "TRAJE AZUL". It is also decorated with numerous embroideries, but in blue and blue tones. This outfit is the most casual, formal, serious and, at the same time, very elegant.

Traje de Sta Marta de Portuzelo (Traje Azul)

The old costume "PERRE" is very solemn. It is usually done in black and green. Decorated with a black velvet apron. The head is covered with a black, red or yellow scarf.