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Mk Anna Sadskaya bear. Teddy bear from Anya Sadovskaya

I’m sitting on Odnoklassniki, not bothering anyone, and here Galya: “Anya, I need to write about myself.” Yes, writing about yourself is still a task... I can write about others, especially on emotions, but about myself... What could be interesting about me? Everything is like everyone else: home, family, work, “cockroaches” in the head. But “the party said – it is necessary, the Komsomol answered – there is.” I'll have to try it.

I was born at the turn of the 70s and 80s in the small village of Klichka in Transbaikalia. I lived there until I was eight months old, and then my mother and I returned to my grandparents. So I don’t remember my little homeland.
We lived further in Byrka, a steppe village in the south of the Chita region. This is my first homeland. I remember how we climbed the mountain to look around, and by the time you climbed, you’d have time to gorge yourself on “hare cabbage” and pick up a bag of Bogorodskaya grass, ordered by my grandmother (since then I’ve loved tea with thyme - a taste of childhood).
I remember how much I loved it when my grandfather took me fishing. Grandfather replaced my father, this is my everything, and for him I will always remain his most beloved granddaughter. Grandpa had a very interesting life, including the front, and, like most boys of that time, he did not receive a higher education, but he was very well-read and smart, and we loved to “scribble” about everything in the world. Unfortunately, he is no longer there...
And there were only two children on our Oglovskaya - me and Seryozha Danilov, so that’s why I started reading very early, and read avidly.

This is how we lived, didn’t bother, and then the whole family “breaks down”: my grandparents move to Novopavlovka, and my mother and I leave for Ryazan. Imagine what it’s like for a village girl to end up in a big city, then one of the cleanest cities in the USSR?! I fell in love with Ryazan, and even more so here everything was nearby, at hand, and my mother and I “had a blast”: we attended all the children’s performances and all the performances at the Ryazan circus. But we lived with relatives, and then my grandmother began to get sick, so we returned to Novopavlovka. But Ryazan remained an unattainable dream for me.

Novopavlovka, then a village located among forests, became my second home. This is where my love for mountains and pine forests comes from. It was great to lie on a stone above the trains and look at Khilok and the taiga stretching into the distance. We also really loved running into the forest to pick mushrooms (since then I just love mushrooms) and to pick berries. In the fall, pine nuts were brought in, and we nibbled on this delicacy all winter. And our famous frosts are down to forty degrees, but in winter our sun does not hide behind the clouds, and the snow crunches underfoot all winter. And my wonderful mother took us on hikes, played Indians with us, and simply took us to the regional center to theaters and museums. This is how my childhood passed.

After graduating from school, I, of course, went to study in Ryazan - this is my third homeland. The shy “country of birch calico” with blue ribbons of rivers and a beautiful necklace of Meshchera lakes. In Ryazan, I graduated from our Radio Engineering Academy, got married, my son was born, my sunshine, my love, my pride. When he grew up, we started traveling. At first, like everyone else, “at sea”, then Moscow was added, and then away we go...
At some point I wanted to share it with others and started posting photos on Odnoklassniki. That’s how Galya and I met “at the Zadorozhny Museum.” She suggested writing about trips, I tried, and you know the result: now not a single trip is complete without a story.
Traveling for me is a way to escape from work, escape into another life, and also get in touch with my favorite story. And the preparation for the trip itself brings no less pleasure than the trip itself: surfing the World Wide Web, finding all the reviews, photographs, and attractions. What could be more interesting?
And recently I began to discover such a close but unfamiliar Ryazan region. My third homeland turned out to have so many interesting, beautiful places!

This is how I live like everyone else: home, work, “my own cockroaches” in my head, and also trips around our endless Motherland, Mother Russia.

Author of the description: Anna Sadovskaya

We invite you to knit a gentle and airy girl, Chamomile. From a thin thread the girl turns out to be very tiny, but if you take thicker yarn, the doll will be taller.

Dear English-speaking friends! Free pattern in English in my group on the Facebook

For knitting you will need:

For the body Pekhorka “Lacy” (100% mercerized cotton, 280 m/50 g) – a little flesh color No. 068, a little white, yellow and green for clothes, hook 1.25 mm.
For hair Kamtex “Karakul stretch” (44% wool, 44% acrylic, 10% cotton, 2% lycra, 145 m/100 g) – a little white.
For the Vita cotton “Coco” flower (100% mercerized cotton, 240 m/50 g) – 10 g white and a little green, 1.5 mm hook. For the middle “Kuzya Klubochkin” from Color City or any other similar thread, for example, Alize “Softy”, Lanoso “Puf”, etc., 6 mm hook. For stability, you will need some kind of weight, something flat and quite heavy, no more than 4 cm in diameter, I used coins, which I placed between two circles cut out of thick plastic. The pupa is attached to the flower using an elastic thread (spandex), just a little is needed.
Filler (holofiber).
Copper wire with a cross-section of 1 mm for the frame of the pupa (65 cm) and beading wire with a diameter of 0.3 mm for the frame of the flower petals.
Eyes 5 mm, eyelashes, a little white felt.
If desired, dry pastel for tinting; you can tint in any other way you are familiar with.

When using these materials, the doll is 14 cm tall

You can ask any questions regarding the description on our forum

Abbreviations

sc– single crochet

dec– decrease (2 sc knit together)

etc– increase (knit 2 sc from one)

ss– connecting post

VP- air loop

psn– half double crochet

PRpsn– increase from hdc (knit 2 hdc from one)

UBpsn– decrease from hdc (knit 2 hdc together)

s1n– single crochet

s2n– double crochet stitch

The toy is knitted in a spiral, without connecting posts and lifting loops.

Thanks to this way of presenting the description, you will always know exactly where your increases or decreases should be, and your elbow/knee will always end up exactly where they should be. The offset of the beginning of a row when knitting in a spiral can differ for different yarns and at different knitting densities, so the alignment of the marker makes the description universal - from any yarn, in any hands, you will get exactly the part that it should be.

Crochet handles

The beginning of the row marker runs along the middle of the outside of the arm.

2nd row: (inc, sc) x 3 (9)

3rd row: 9 sc (9)

4th row: s2n, 8 sbn (9) – when knitting the first sbn after s2n, the double crochet stitch is folded in half, forming a bump - a thumb.

Row 5: (sc, dec) x 3 (6)

6th row: 6 sc (6)

Row 7: (2 sc, inc) x 2 (8)

Rows 8-15 (8 rows): 8 sc (8)

Row 16: 3 sc, inc x 2, 3 sc (10)

Rows 17-22 (6 rows): 10 sc (10)

For the left handle we knit another 1 sc, for the right - 6 sc. We fasten the thread and cut it.

We measure 12 cm of wire with a cross-section of 1 mm, bend one end, and wrap it with adhesive tape. We insert it into the handle. We fill the handle with filler in the upper part.

Crochet legs

The beginning of the row marker runs along the middle of the inside of the leg.

We begin to knit with white thread.

1st row: 4 ch, from the 2nd loop from the hook: inc, sc, 4 sc in the last loop, on the other side of the chain: sc, inc (10)

2nd row: inc, 3 sc, inc x 2, 3 sc, inc (14)

3-4 rows (2 rows): 14 sc (14)

5 row: (dec, 5 sc) x 2 (12)

6th row: 12 sc (12)

RIGHT LEG OF THE PUPA

Row 7: sc, ch 4, skip 4 sc, 7 sc (12)

Row 8 (we knit the heel): dec x 6 (first sc along the foot, then 4 sc along the chain and 7 sc at the foot)

We attach the thread to the post between the heel and foot on the side of the marker and knit the LEG:

1st row: sc in the space between the heel and foot, 4 sc in the foot, sc in the gap between the foot and heel, 4 sc in the chain of the 7th row (10)

4th row: 7 sc, inc x 2, sc (12)

11th row (behind the back wall of the loop): 2 sc, inc x 2, 6 sc (12)

Row 12: 9 sc, inc x 2, sc (14)

Row 13: 14 sc (14)

1st row: (sc, inc) x 5 (15)

2nd row: (ch, ss) x 15

Row 14: 2 sc, dec x 2, 2 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc (14)

15-21 rows (7 rows): 14 sc (14)>

We fasten the thread and cut it. Stuff the leg with filler.

LEFT LEG OF THE PUPPE

Row 7: 7 sc, ch 4, skip 4 sc, sc (12)

8th row (we knit the heel): dec x 6 (7 sbn along the foot, then 4 sbn along the chain and sbn along the foot)

We fasten the thread, cut it, and tighten the remaining hole.

We attach the thread to the 4th chain loop of the 7th row and knit a LEG:

1st row: 4 sbn along the chain of the 7th row, sbn in the space between the heel and foot, 4 sbn along the foot, sbn in the space between the foot and heel (10)

2-3 rows (2 rows): 10 sc (10)

4th row: sc, inc x 2, 7 sc (12)

We measure 20 cm of wire with a cross-section of 1 mm, bend one end to the shape of the foot, and wrap it with adhesive tape. We insert it into the leg. Stuff the leg with filler.

5-9 rows (5 rows): 12 sc (12)

10 row: 2 sbn, dec, 4 sbn, dec, 2 sbn (10)

Change the thread to a flesh thread, do not cut the white thread yet.

11th row (behind the back wall of the loop): 6 sc, inc x 2, 2 sc (12)

Row 12: sc, inc x 2, 9 sc (14)

Row 13: 14 sc (14)

Turn the knitting leg away from you and use the remaining white thread to tie the golf shirt around the front half-loops of the 10th row:

1st row: (sc, inc) x 5 (15)

2nd row: (ch, ss) x 15

We fasten the thread, cut it, hide the tip. Fold the collar down. Stuff the leg with filler. We continue to knit the leg:

Row 14: inc, 4 sc, inc, 2 sc, dec x 2, 2 sc (14)

Rows 15-21 (7 rows): 14 sc (14)

Stuff the leg with filler. We do not cut the thread, we continue knitting, connecting the legs into the BODY:

Row 22: ch 2, 14 sc along the right leg, sc along the chain, place a marker for the beginning of the row here, now the beginning of the row will be here (middle of the back), align the marker during the knitting process.

23rd row: sc along the chain, (13 sc, inc) along the left leg, 2 sc along the chain, inc, 12 sc, inc, sc (35)

We connect the wires from the legs together and wrap them with adhesive tape.

24 row: sbn, inc, 12 sbn, inc, 4 sbn, inc, 15 sbn (38)

Rows 25-32 (8 rows): 38 sc (38)

33rd row: 15 sbn, dec, 4 sbn, dec, 15 sbn (36)

Rows 34-35 (2 rows): 36 sc (36)

Row 36: 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec) x 5, 2 sc (30)

Rows 37-45 (9 rows): 30 sc (30)

We stuff the body with filler.

46 row: 5 sbn, 4 sbn together with the left handle (count 4 sbn from the last column of the handle and start knitting from the 4th column), 12 sbn, 4 sbn together with the right handle (count 4 sbn from the last column of the handle and start tying from the 4th column), 5 sc (30)

Row 47: 5 sbn, 6 sbn along the free loops of the left handle, 12 sbn, 6 sbn along the free loops of the right handle, 5 sbn (34)

We connect the wires from the handles with the wires from the legs and wrap them with adhesive tape. All 4 wires will go to the neck and then to the head.

Rows 48-49 (2 rows): 34 sc (34)

Row 50: 22 sbn, dec, 3 sbn, dec, 5 sbn (32)

51 row: 5 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, (2 sc, dec) x 3, sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, sc (25)

Row 52: sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, (sc, dec) x 2, 2 sc, dec, sc, 3 sc together, sc, dec, sc (17)

We stuff the body with filler.

Row 53: sbn, dec, sbn, 3 sbn together, (2 sbn, dec) x 2, 2 sbn (12)

Row 54: 2 sc, dec, 8 sc (11)

Row 55: 11 sc (11)

We fasten the thread, cut it, leaving a small end for sewing to the head.

We knit the doll's head

The beginning of the row marker runs along the middle of the back of the head.

1st row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring (6)

2nd row: inc x 6 (12)

3rd row: (inc, sc) x 6 (18)

5 row: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Row 7: (5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

9-15 rows (7 rows): 48 sc (48)

16th row: 15 sbn, dec, 2 sbn, dec, 6 sbn, dec, 2 sbn, dec, 15 sbn (44)

Rows 17-20 (4 rows): 44 sc (44)

21 row: 13 sbn, (inc, sbn) x 2, inc, 8 sbn, inc, (sbn, inc) x 2, 13 sbn (50)

22-24 rows (3 rows): 50 sc (50)

Now we will attach the doll's hair. The principle of hair attachment is shown on the head of another doll.

We wrap the Karakul stretch yarn from Kamtex on a book, notepad, sheet of cardboard or any other suitable template and cut it (the length of the cut thread is at your discretion - what length of hair you want to get).

We attach the hair as follows: insert the hook from the inside of the head into the beginning of the knitting (amigurumi ring) and bring it out, pick up the “hair” folded in half in the middle and bring the loop inside the head. We step back the required gap and stick the hook into the next column, again pick up the “hair” and bring it inside the head, drag it through the loop on the hook. Next, we proceed in the same way, picking up new “hairs” and pulling them inside the head, forming a chain of loops on the wrong side of the head. Each time we tighten the previous strand so that all the loops of the chain lie as close to the head as possible.

We fasten the hair up to the 8th row inclusive, starting from the beginning of knitting, each time skipping one row and one column. Keep in mind that with this method of attaching hair, the hair turns out to be quite thick.

Using any contrasting thread, we mark the location of the hair, taking into account that the marker for the beginning of the row passes through the middle of the back of the head.

We continue to fasten the hair inside this contour, skipping 2 columns and 3 rows. At the border of the contour, we attach the hair through 1 column and through 1 row. At the end, we secure the last loop on the hook by stitching it with sewing thread.

We continue knitting the head.

25 row: 3 sc, dec, 8 sc, (dec, sc) x 2, dec, 8 sc, dec, (sc, dec) x 2, 8 sc, dec, 3 sc (42)

Row 26: 42 sc (42)

Row 27: (5 sc, dec) x 6 (36)

28 row: 2 sbn, dec, (4 sbn, dec) x 5, 2 sbn (30)

Row 29: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)

Row 30: sc, dec, (2 sc, dec) x 5, sc (18)

We fill the head with filler.

31st row: (sc, dec) x 5, dec x 2 (grab the sc of the next row)

We fasten the thread, cut it, leaving a small end for embroidering the nose.

Decoration of the doll's face

My face design is just one of the options; you can design this doll in your own way.

We embroider the outline of the ear with a chain stitch using flesh-colored thread. Without tearing off the thread, we knit 1 row of sc along the contour, for the right ear we start knitting from the bottom, for the left - from the top.

Using the thread left after knitting the head, we embroider the nose. We visually determine the middle of the face and draw the thread between the 20th and 21st rows one column to the right of this middle. We retreat two columns to the left and make several stitches, forming a nose. The stitches lie freely, we do not tighten anything.

We cut out squirrels from felt in the form of circles, slightly larger in diameter than the eyes used. Glue the dolls to the head (the eyes are located between the 17th and 20th rows of the head). Glue on the eyelashes (I took the shortest eyelashes I had and even trimmed them a little). We embroider the mouth and eyebrows. You can slightly redden your cheeks using any tinting method that is familiar to you.

We knit shoes for amigurumi

We knit with a thread of the same thickness that was used to knit the doll itself.

1st row: 5 ch, from the 2nd loop from the hook: inc, 2 sc, 4 sc in the last loop, on the other side of the chain: 2 sc, inc (12)

2nd row: inc, 3 sc, PRdc x 4, 3 sc, inc (18)

3rd row: sbn, inc, 5 sbn, PRdsn x 4, 5 sbn, inc, sbn (24)

4th row (behind the back wall of the loop): 8 sc, 8 hdc, 8 sc (24)

5 row: 8 sbn, 8 hdc, 8 sbn (24)

6th row: 6 sbn, dec, hdc, UBpsn, 2 hdcs, UBpsn, hdc, dec, 4 sbn, dec (19)

7th row: dec, 7 sbn, dec, 8 sbn (17)

We fasten the thread and cut it. We change the hook to a smaller one (I took 1 mm) and with a thread of the finishing color we tie the shoe with one row of crab step for the remaining half-loops of the 3rd row. We fasten the thread, cut it, hide all the ends. We knit the second shoe in the same way.

We knit a sundress for amigurumi

We knit with a thread of the same thickness that was used to knit the doll itself. We start with yellow.

We cast on 32 ch, close it in a circle with a connecting column.

Rows 1-8 (8 rows): 32 sc (32)

Row 9 (behind the front wall of the loop): (ch, ss) x 32

We attach a white thread to the first column of the 8th row and knit using the remaining half-loops:

10 row: 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) x 5, 3 sc, inc (39)

11th row (behind the front wall of the loop): ss, (14 ch, from the 2nd loop from the hook: 13 sc, further along the dress: 3 ss) x 12, 14 ch, from the 2nd loop from the hook: 13 sc, 2 ss

Row 12 (we tie the petals): (miss ss, ss, ss, 9 hdc, 2 sb, ch 2, 2 ss, 9 hdc, ss, ss, ss skip, ss) x 13

Row 13 (for the left half loops): (3 dc along the dress, ch 18, from the 2nd loop from the hook: 17 sc) x 13

Row 14 (we tie the petals): ((miss ss, ss) x 2, sbn, 13 hdc, 2 sbn, 2 ch, 2 sbn, 13 hdc, sbn, ss) x 13

We fasten the thread, cut it, leaving a small end for sewing the petals.

The petals on the skirt will curl up, so we need to stitch them. Having retreated a few loops from the top of the skirt, we alternately pick up the upper and lower petals, connecting them to each other.

We secure the thread by slightly pulling the petals.

We attach a yellow thread to the 11th loop of the chain of the first row of the dress and knit FRONT:

1st row: dec, 8 sc, dec (10)

We cut the thread, re-attach it to the 1st column of the 1st row of the front and knit the 2nd row:

2nd row: dec, 6 sc, dec (8)

We fasten the thread and cut it.

We knit STRAPS: we attach the thread to one edge of the front and cast on a chain of 13 ch, with a connecting stitch we attach the chain to the back of the sundress, we knit another 1 dc along the back and return to the beginning of the chain, knitting 13 sc, we fasten the strap to the front of the dress. We knit the second strap in the same way. We tie the neck and armholes of the sundress as follows: (ch, ss) x in each column. We hide all the ends of the threads.

We put a sundress on the doll.

We bend the ends of the wire protruding from the body so that the resulting loop reaches at least the middle of the head, and preferably almost to the back of the head. If necessary, cut off the excess wire. Wrap the loop with adhesive tape. We hide all the threads inside the head and sew the head to the body.

Decorating an amigurumi doll

I knitted the middle of the chamomile from “Kuzya Klubochkin” from Color City, crocheted 6 mm:

1st row: 2 ch, in the first loop: 6 sc (6)

2nd row: inc x 6 (12)

Change the thread to “Soso” Vita cotton, hook 1.5 mm

3rd row: (5 sc in one column) x 12 (60)

In the next row, we begin to knit the upper tier of petals, knitting bead wire. To do this, we knit the required number of air loops and apply a wire folded in half. We knit the first column, grabbing only one wire (inserting the hook between two wires). We knit the second and then all the columns to the end of the chain, grabbing both wires.

We do not cut the wire, we knit it directly from the spool, each time trying on the length of the section folded in half along the chain of ch, and at the end of the row we cut the wire. We tie wire into the lower tier of petals in the same way.

4th row (behind the front wall of the loop, we tie the wire): ss, (18 ch, from the 2nd loop from the hook: 17 sc, further in the middle: 3 ss) x 19, 18 ch, from the 2nd loop from the hook: 17 sc, 2 ss

Row 5 (we tie the petals): (miss ss, ss, ss, 13 hdc, 2 ss, 2 ch, 2 ss, 13 hdc, ss, ss, ss skip, ss) x 20

6th row (for the left half loops, we tie the wire): (3 ss in the middle, 22 ch, from the 2nd loop from the hook: 21 sc) x 20

Row 7 (we tie the petals): ((miss ss, ss) x 2, sbn, 17 hdc, 2 sbn, 2 ch, 2 sbn, 17 hdc, sbn, ss) x 20

We fasten the thread and cut it. We wrap the ends of the wire with adhesive tape. We thread two pieces of spandex into the middle, securing them with knots on the wrong side. The resulting loops will hold our doll on the flower.

We knit the lower part of the flower in green.

1st row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring (6)

2nd row: inc x 6 (12)

3rd row: (inc, sc) x 6 (18)

4th row: sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) x 5, sc (24)

5 row: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

6th row: 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) x 5, 2 sc (36)

Row 7: (5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

8th row: 3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc) x 5, 3 sc (48)

Row 9: (7 sc, inc) x 6 (54)

10th row: 54 sc (54)

11th row: 4 sc, inc, (8 sc, inc) x 5, 4 sc (60)

Row 12: 60 sc (60)

13th row (behind the front wall of the loop): (sc, (hdc, s1n, hdc) x in one column, sc) x 20

We fasten the thread, cut it, leaving a small end for sewing to the flower. Sew to the daisy using the remaining half-loops. You need to put some kind of weighting material inside. I didn’t have anything suitable, so I put in the coins, taping them with adhesive tape to two circles of thick plastic.

Back Little bear.

We will need:

YarnArt “Suede” (100% polyamide, 135 m/50 g) - 60 g, hook 3 mm. You can use absolutely any thread, both fluffy and smooth, this bear will look great from any yarn.
For the hat and scarf - Adelia “Valeri” (50% acrylic, 50% wool, 146 m/50 g) - 20 g, circular or stocking needles 3.5 mm, for leaves and nose - “Iris” from Vita cotton (100 % double mercerized cotton, 125 m/20 g) - a little black, gold, orange, beige and red, 1 mm hook.
Filler (holofiber).
Cotter pins, washers and discs, the size depends on your knitting density and the threads used, I have discs with a diameter of 18 mm (5 sc) for the upper legs (4 pcs.), 30 mm (8 sc) for the lower legs and head (6 pcs. ) You can use any other fastening method convenient for you.
Wooden bead for a hat (I have a bead diameter of 10 mm), transparent glue.
Eyes (mine are 9 mm in diameter), a suede cord 3 mm wide for decorating the eyelids.
If desired - dry pastel for tinting, you can tint in any other way you are familiar with.

When using these materials, the bear is 20 cm tall.

Abbreviations:

sc - single crochet

dec - decrease (2 sc knit together)

pr - increase (knit 2 sc from one)

ss - connecting post

VP - air loop

psn - half double crochet

с1н - double crochet

s2n - double crochet stitch

Retreat for beginners, knitting correctly:

The toy is knitted in a spiral, without connecting posts and lifting loops.

Front side of the part: Back side of the part:

The description of knitting this toy is based on the fact that the beginning of the row does not shift throughout the knitting of the entire piece and runs in an even line, but since we knit in a spiral, without lifting loops and a connecting post, the beginning of the row will shift to the right, therefore every 4- 5 rows need to be knitted at the end of the row with an additional offset stitch so that the beginning of the row is again in the same place. These additional columns are not taken into account in the description of the rows.

Thanks to this way of presenting the description, you will always know exactly where your increases or decreases should be, and your elbow/knee will always end up exactly where they should be. The offset of the beginning of a row when knitting in a spiral can differ for different yarns and at different knitting densities, so the alignment of the marker makes the description universal - from any yarn, in any hands, the piece will turn out exactly the way it should be.

Stage 1. Upper and lower legs.

Upper legs

2nd row: inc x 6 (12)

3rd row: (inc, 3 sc) x 3 (15)

4-5 rows (2 rows): 15 sc (15)

6th row: 6 sc, dec x 2, 5 sc (13)

Rows 7-20 (14 rows): 13 sc (13)

Fill the foot with filler, loosely (the foot should be soft and bend easily). We retreat 2 rows down and insert a cotter pin with a disk (so that the decreases of the 6th row face forward). I have a disk with a diameter of 18 mm. We determine the required diameter of the disc as follows: fold the presser foot in half and select a disc that occupies the entire internal space of the presser foot without stretching the fabric.

You can insert a wire frame into the foot.

Note: in order for the paws to fit snugly to the body, you need to choose the correct diameter of the disk - it should be equal to the width of the paw at the attachment point. Do not stuff the upper part of the paw too much, it should be flat - then the limbs will look like a continuation of the body, and not separate, unrelated parts.

Row 21: sc x until the hole is closed.

We knit the second leg in the same way. Please note that you should have a right and a left paw.

Lower legs

The beginning of the row marker runs through the middle of the heel.

Row 1: ch 5, from the second loop from the hook: inc, 2 sc, 4 sc in the first loop, on the other side of the chain: 2 sc, inc (12)

2nd row: inc x 2, 2 sc, inc x 4, 2 sc, inc x 2 (20)

3rd row: 8 sbn, inc, 2 sbn, inc, 8 sbn (22)

6th row: 5 sc, dec, sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, sc, dec, 4 sc, dec (grab the sc of the next row, move the marker) (17)

7th row: 4 sbn, dec, sbn, 3 sbn together, sbn, dec, 4 sbn (13)

8 row: 5 sbn, 3 sbn together, 5 sbn (11)

9 row: 11 sc (11)

10 row: 5 sbn, 3 sbn in one, 4 sbn, inc (14)

Row 11: inc, 4 sc, inc, sc, inc, 6 sc (17)

Row 12: 7 sc, inc, sc, inc, 7 sc (19)

Rows 13-15 (3 rows): 19 sc (19)

We select the diameter of the disc: fold the presser foot in half and select a disc that occupies the entire internal space of the presser foot without stretching the fabric. For now we put aside the fastening.

16th row: 7 sbn, dec, sbn, dec, 7 sbn (17)

Row 17: 6 sbn, dec, sbn, dec, 6 sbn (15)

We fill the foot with the filler quite tightly. We retreat 3 rows down, 4 loops from the marker to the right (for the left foot) or to the left (for the right foot) and insert a cotter pin with a disk (I have a disk diameter of 30 mm). Fill the upper part of the foot with filler.

Left foot

Row 18: (dec, sc) x 2, dec, 5 sc, dec (11)

Row 19: sc, dec x 5 (6)

We fasten the thread, cut it, hide the tip.

Right foot

18th row: 5 sc, dec, (sc, dec) x 2, sc, dec (grab the sc of the next row) (11)

Row 19: sc, dec x 5 (6)

We fasten the thread, cut it, hide the tip.

The beginning of the row marker runs down the middle of the back.

1st row: ch 2, 6 sc in first loop (6)

2nd row: inc x 6 (12)

3rd row: (inc, sc) x 6 (18)

4th row: sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) x 5, sc (24)

5 row: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

6th row: 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) x 5, 2 sc (36)

Row 7: (5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

8th row: 3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc) x 5, 3 sc (48)

Row 9: (7 sc, inc) x 6 (54)

Rows 10-16 (7 rows): 54 sc (54)

17th row: 3 sbn, dec, 12 sbn, (dec, 4 sbn) x 3, dec, 12 sbn, dec, 3 sbn (48)

Row 18: 48 sc (48)

We insert the cotter pins of the lower legs between the 7th and 8th rows, 8-9 loops from the marker to the left (for the left foot) and to the right (for the right foot), twist.

19 row: 3 sbn, dec, 12 sbn, (dec, 2 sbn) x 3, dec, 12 sbn, dec, 3 sbn (42)

Row 20: 42 sc (42)

21 row: 3 sbn, dec, 10 sbn, dec, sbn, dec, 2 sbn, dec, sbn, dec, 10 sbn, dec, 3 sbn (36)

22-24 rows (3 rows): 36 sc (36)

25 row: 2 sbn, dec, (4 sbn, dec) x 5, 2 sbn (30)

Row 26: 30 sc (30)

We fill the tummy with filler, you can add a little glass granules. We retreat 5 rows down, 9 loops from the marker to the left (for the left foot) and to the right (for the right foot) - insert the cotter pins of the upper legs, tighten.

Row 27: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)

Row 28: 24 sc (24)

Row 29: sc, dec, (2 sc, dec) x 5, sc (18)

We fill the body with filler to the end. We insert a cotter pin with a disk for fastening the head (I have a disk with a diameter of 30 mm).

Row 30: (sc, dec) x 6 (12)

31 row: dec x 6 (6)

We fasten the thread, cut it, hide the tip.

The beginning of the row marker runs along the middle of the bottom of the head.

1st row: ch 2, 6 sc in first loop (6)

2nd row: inc x 6 (12)

3rd row: sc, inc x 3, 4 sc, inc x 3, sc (18)

4th row: 2 sc, inc x 3, 8 sc, inc x 3, 2 sc (24)

5 row: 3 sc, inc x 3, 12 sc, inc x 3, 3 sc (30)

6-8 rows (3 rows): 30 sc (30)

9 row: 5 sbn, inc, 2 sbn, (inc, sbn) x 3, inc x 2, (sbn, inc) x 3, 2 sbn, inc, 5 sbn (40)

10 row: 6 sbn, (inc, 2 sbn) x 9, inc, 6 sbn (50)

11th row: 50 sc (50)

Row 12: 9 sc, inc, (5 sc, inc) x 2, 6 sc, (inc, 5 sc) x 2, inc, 9 sc (56)

Row 13: 56 sc (56)

Row 14: 15 sbn, inc, 7 sbn, inc, 8 sbn, inc, 7 sbn, inc, 15 sbn (60)

15-21 rows (7 rows): 60 sc (60)

22nd row: 4 sc, dec, (8 sc, dec) x 5, 4 sc (54)

23rd row: 54 sc (54)

24 row: (7 sc, dec) x 6 (48)

Row 25: 48 sc (48)

26 row: 3 sbn, dec, (6 sbn, dec) x 5, 3 sbn (42)

Row 27: (5 sc, dec) x 6 (36)

28 row: 2 sbn, dec, (4 sbn, dec) x 5, 2 sbn (30)

Row 29: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)

We insert the body cotter pin between the 16th and 17th rows, on the marker line, and tighten it. We fill the head with filler.

Row 30: sc, dec, (2 sc, dec) x 5, sc (18)

Row 31: (sc, dec) x 6 (12)

We fill the head with filler to the end.

Row 32: dec x 6 (6)

We fasten the thread and cut it.

The beginning of the row marker in this part does not need to be aligned.

1st row: 2 ch, in the first loop: 6 sc (6)

2nd row: inc x 6 (12)

3rd row: (inc, sc) x 6 (18)

4-6 rows (3 rows): 18 sc (18)

Fold the piece in half and knit 9 sc through both fabrics.

We fasten the thread. We knit the second ear in the same way.

The beginning of the row marker in this part does not need to be aligned.

1st row: ch 2, 6 sc in first loop (6)

2nd row: (inc, sc) x 3 (9)

3rd row: 9 sc (9)

We cut the thread and fasten it.

Underlip

1st row: ch 2, 3 sc in first loop (3)

2nd row: ch, turn, 3 sc (3)

We cut the thread and fasten it.

“Iris” from Vita cotton, hook 1 mm.

1st row: 5 ch, from the 2nd loop from the hook: 3 sc, 3 sc in the last loop, on the other side of the chain: 2 sc, inc (10)

2nd row: inc, 2 sc, inc x 3, 2 sc, inc x 2 (16)

3rd row: sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, (sc, inc) x 2, 3 sc, inc, sc, inc (22)

4-5 rows (2 rows): 22 sc (22)

We fasten the thread, cut it, leaving a small end for sewing.

Decor

On the bear's face we roughly outline the points for the eyes and mouth. For me, the point of the mouth is located 4 rows lower from the beginning of knitting near the marker, the eyes are between the 8th and 9th rows, between the eyes there are 4 sc. The tightening point for the spout is between the 3rd and 4th rows between the eyes.

We insert the needle into the point where the mouth tightens and bring it out to the point of the right eye. We retreat the column, insert the needle, bring it out at the point of the mouth, and tighten it. We repeat the tightening several times, tightening the thread. We tighten the left eye in the same way, slightly pulling the points of the eye towards each other, forming the bridge of the nose.

We remove the needle at the point of the mouth. We insert the needle at the point where the nose is tightened (the thread goes over the fabric), bring it out at the point of the mouth, and tighten the thread. We repeat the tightening several times, securing the tightening with a strong knot, including the ends of the threads.

Sew the lower lip (the corner (the beginning of knitting the lip) is applied to the point where the mouth is tightened). We sew on the nose, filling it a little with filler; with the same thread you can embroider a bridge between the cheeks. Sew on the ears in any position you like, and sew on the tail.

You can tint the mouth and around the eyes a little (I didn’t tint the brown bear). We attach the eyes, glue a suede cord above and below the eye - eyelids. It seemed to me that my cord was too thick, so I cut off a little thickness of the cord for the upper eyelid, and for the lower eyelid I also trimmed the width. We knit the eyebrows directly on the bear’s head - 1 row of sc, clinging to the columns of the head.

Adelia “Valeri”, knitting needles 3.5 mm

We put 9 loops on the knitting needles and knit with an English elastic band 1x1

1st row: chrome, (1 purl, 1 knit) x to the end of the row, chrome.

2nd row: chrome, (we knit the loop knitted in the previous row purlwise, make a yarn over and together with it remove the next loop unknitted) x to the end of the row, chrome.

3rd row: chrome, (in front of the loop that we knitted in the 2nd row, make a yarn over and remove it unknitted, knit the next loop together with the yarn over hanging on it behind the front wall) x to the end of the row, chrome.

Repeat the 3rd row until the required length of the scarf (my bear has a scarf of 25 cm). We knit the last row like the first, close the loops, hide the ends of the threads. We tie a scarf to the bear.

Adelia “Valeri”, knitting needles 3.5 mm. We cast on 64 loops on stocking or circular knitting needles and knit in the round.

Rows 1-7 (7 rows): (K2, P2) x 16 (64)

Row 8: knit all stitches. (64)

Row 9: knit 16, knit 10, knit 11, knit 10, knit 15. (44)

Row 10: K16, cast on 10 stitches again, knit 12, cast on 10 loops again, k16. (64)

Row 11: all knit stitches. (64)

Starting from the next row, we make decreases, knitting 3 loops together as follows: slip the 2nd loop out of three onto the right knitting needle, knit the 1st and 3rd loops together, pull the resulting loop through the 2nd loop on the right knitting needle.

Row 12: K7, K3. together, (13 persons, 3 persons together) x 3, 6 persons. (56)

Row 13: all knit stitches. (56)

Row 14: (3 knits together, 11 knits) x 4 (48)

Row 15: all knit stitches. (48)

Row 16: knit 5, knit 3. together, (9 persons, 3 persons together) x 3, 4 persons. (40)

Row 17: all knit stitches. (40)

Row 18: (knit 3 together, knit 7) x 4 (32)

Row 19: all knit stitches. (32)

Row 20: K3, K3. together, (5 persons, 3 persons together) x 3, 2 persons. (24)

Row 21: all knit stitches. (24)

Row 22: (knit 3 together, knit 3) x 4 (16)

Row 23: all knit stitches. (16)

Row 24: (knit 1, knit 3 together) x 4 (8)

We cut the thread, tighten the remaining 8 loops, fasten the thread, and hide the tip.

We knit with a thin cotton thread, I have “Iris” from Vita cotton, 1 mm hook. Leaf diagram (verbal description below):

1st row: 20 ch, from the 2nd loop from the hook: 4 sc, 4 hdc, 5 dc1n, 5 dc2n, 8 dc2n in the last loop, on the other side of the chain: 5 dc2n, 5 dc1n, 4 hdc, 4 sc, ss in the first air loop (45)

2nd row: hdc, sbn skip, (3 dc1n, 3 ch, ss) x in one column, ss, sc, hdc, s1n, (3 dc2n, 4 ch, ss) x in one column, ss, sc, hdc, 3 s1n, (3 s2n, 4 ch, ss) x in one column, ss, sc, hdc, s1n, (2 s2n, 4 VP, ss) x in one column, ss, (hdc, s1n, s2n) x in one column, (s2n, s1n, hdc) x in one column, ss, (ss, 4 ch, 2 s2n) x in one column, s1n, hdc, sc, ss, (ss, 4 ch, 3 s2n) x in one column, 3 s1n, hdc, sc, ss, (ss, 4 ch, 3 s2n) x in one column, s1n, hdc, sc, ss, (ss, 3 ch, 3 s1n) x in one column, skip sb , psn, ss.

We do not cut the thread, we continue to knit the petiole: ch 5, from the 2nd loop from the hook: sc, 3 dc further along the chain, sl st into the last loop of the 1st row.

We fasten the thread and cut it, leaving a small end.

Similarly, we knit 6 more leaves of different colors.

Using a needle, we pull the remaining threads on each leaf along the petiole and thread it into a wooden bead (I have a bead diameter of 10 mm). We collect all the threads into a bundle, tie it in a knot, cut the threads, and lubricate the knot with transparent glue. Sew the composition of leaves onto the hat.

We put on a hat for our little bear.

From: Ryazan, Russia.

Traveling for Anna is, first of all, freedom, and then new experiences, places, people. Traveling is a different life, maybe even more real than everyday life. And for her, traveling is an opportunity to tell other people about the places she has visited, to “infect” them with the dream of visiting them! After all, just sitting in one place is so boring!

Traveling is not just about visiting new places. This is, first of all, broadening your horizons, this is what makes you an interesting person.

How long have you been traveling? Where was your first trip?

It depends on what kind of travel we’re talking about. The first unconscious thing (when someone drove you) - seven years old, my mother and I flew from Transbaikalia to Moscow, unfortunately, I remember little of it. The first conscious one (which I prepared) was in 2005, the whole family went to Arkhipo-Osipovka, the trip was extremely unsuccessful, I “don’t go to such places anymore.” The first blogging trip (which I describe) was in Kostroma in 2013.

Are you traveling alone or in a team? What qualities of a partner are most important when traveling?

Basically, I travel with someone, the composition of the team may change, but usually they are relatives or friends. It’s just that any trip for me begins with finding a good, inexpensive hotel in an interesting place, and then the details begin to be worked out, including who is traveling with me, and this is where it often turns out that “he who agreed gets the slippers.”

What qualities are important? Probably, first of all, trust, because booking hotels, trains, planes, excursions, and simply what we will visit, falls entirely on me, with all the ensuing consequences. True, lately the thought has been coming to me more and more: shouldn’t I go somewhere alone?

How do you choose a country (city, place) for your next trip?

When they approve the vacation schedule at work, I simply open the map and figure out where I can go on my free days, whether my husband can go by car or whether he will have to get there on his own, how much time it will take. Usually two or three cities “fight” for a place on the tour, and the one with good but inexpensive housing wins. And then I start layering museums and interesting places. Almost every city in Russia has interesting things to do, some are just more popular, and some are not so well known, but when you start “digging” it always turns out that it’s simply impossible to have time to see everything.

Have you ever found yourself in extreme situations? If yes, tell us about the most exciting one.

I’m not an extreme person at all, so I “put down straws” wherever possible. But still, I managed to get into adventures, but are they extreme?... The first of the situations was when we got lost on Mangup in Crimea. We decided to take a shortcut, a path, two steps to the side, there was forest all around and it was unclear where to go. It’s good that Vitya realized to move along the edge of the cliff, in the end, after about an hour we crawled out into a clearing, I even started crying. Since then, no paths.

The second situation is related to the car, when it just stopped right in the middle between Rostov and Voronezh. It’s good that Vitya noticed the sign to the settlement, so just like in that joke, we drove in reverse along the highway to the turn, got to the village where the car stopped completely, we couldn’t find an electrician (the only one was on a drinking binge), but we bought a battery.

In the end, my uncle saved us, he works for a fairly well-known international corporation, whose people are all over Russia, so the locals met us, took us to Kulibin, helped us buy spare parts, and after five hours we were driving like nothing never went home. By the way, this whole story happened on my birthday, such a unique gift.

How do you find your way around new places (GPS, maps, interviewing local residents...)?

By car, the best option is a navigator; if I’m moving on foot, then I like maps the old fashioned way; if you’re completely lost, use local residents. True, locals don’t always know what you need. I remember a weekday, half past twelve at night, we were circling around the center of Tula and didn’t know where to go, the locals couldn’t tell us until I guessed to name not Oryol, but the nearest town, then they waved at us and in the end we got to the right route.

Can you break any known stereotype about the places you have visited?

The fact that traveling around Russia is not interesting. Lately I’ve been hearing very often that our country is expensive, the roads are bad, and there’s nothing to see. In fact, our roads are not in perfect condition, but “horror” things don’t happen very often. Yes, and decent hotels can be found for quite reasonable money, and just look... I still can’t “close” the Ryazan region, and what can I say about the whole, I have plans not just for the year, but for years to come.

Which country (or culture) is closest to you in terms of its mentality? Are there places that are completely foreign to you?

I am Russian, and that says it all. And I travel mainly around Russia; I wouldn’t classify Belarus as a completely foreign country either. Why only Russia? To begin with, where I want to go, I need Schengen, but I don’t want to bother with a visa. Maybe if there were fewer beautiful places in Russia, I would be drawn from my “native land”, but for now I have enough places to travel here too. Although who knows, maybe he will be drawn to a foreign land.

What about completely alien places? Oddly enough, the Black Sea coast of the Krasnodar Territory. I know that again many people will throw slippers at me, but this is the only region of Russia where I “didn’t fit in.” I tried three times in different places, under different conditions, but the result was the same, a ruined vacation. So at the family council they decided to “give up” with this region.

What is the main purpose of travel for you? What has changed in your life thanks to travel?

To be honest, for the last six years I have been a bank clerk, with all the ensuing consequences. Therefore, for me, traveling is, first of all, freedom, and then new experiences, places, people. Traveling is a different life, maybe even more real than everyday life. Thanks to travel, I have become more self-confident, more flexible, and able to adapt to the realities of today.

Traveling is also a way to tell other people about the places I have visited, to “infect” them with the dream of visiting them!

Which of your trips do you remember most and why?

I “fall in love” with almost every trip I take, well, at least part of it. The last one struck Belarus and where I urgently want to return. Why? It’s a difficult question... I either have complete sympathy or antipathy with cities, as with people, but I can’t even explain what it depends on. With Kaliningrad and Minsk it worked out “one hundred percent” - they are my cities, that’s why I want to return.

What places would you definitely like to return to and why?

I have already accumulated a whole “baggage” of such places.

Firstly, Crimea. Everyone likes the sea, and if we add to this a huge number of different attractions, then my love for this region becomes clear. And now, this is perhaps the most patriotic place in all of Russia. Only Crimeans, having arrived on the continent, can say: “We don’t take Turkish tangerines, let them eat it themselves.” Secondly, I also love my Transbaikalia. Baikal is my childhood, my “sea”, my pine trees, my rivers, my mountains, but now I can’t get there.

Among the cities I love provincial Kostroma, carved Kozmodemyansk, strict, intelligent St. Petersburg, mysterious Kaliningrad, perfectly clean Minsk.

11.
Belarus. Mir Castle.

Where are you planning to go next?

Yes, the whole of 2016 is already planned. Although, in the wake of recent events (a sudden cold for the whole family and the cancellation of the New Year's trip), I am afraid that much may not happen. And so, the motto of 2016 is “Repeat what has been done”! I want to return to my favorite cities, immerse myself in their atmosphere again, I’m looking forward to meeting St. Petersburg and Kaliningrad.

We are all different, and what is “good for Foma is not always good for Erema.” Therefore, giving advice is a thankless task; it’s better to just talk about the places you’ve visited, and the readers themselves will choose what is really closer and more interesting to them.

And I can only wish and advise one thing: travel, and it doesn’t matter whether in Russia or not, in any case, this is a great opportunity to discover the World!

When compiling this collection, we could not have imagined that there would be so many different crocheted dolls on the Internet.

What skills will you need to crochet a doll?

Firstly, you should learn how to knit an “amigurumi ring”, because almost all parts of small toys are knitted on its basis. Thanks to this method, there are no holes at the base of the round parts. And such toys look much neater.
Secondly, you need to be able to knit in a spiral, without lifting loops. When you knit a piece with lifting loops using single crochets, a so-called seam remains. Sometimes it can be hidden, for example, on the head under the hair of a doll, but on the arms and legs it will not look professional.
Thirdly, you need to decide on the eyes, what kind of eyes you will make for the doll. It’s not for nothing that they say that the eyes are the mirror of the soul. The realism of the finished toy, its soul, will depend on the eyes. To begin with, you can make bead eyes, buy ready-made eyes in the store. But the height of perfection will be embroidered eyes or drawn using a special technique. Some needlewomen share their secrets for creating eyes. You can find videos like this on YouTube.
Fourthly, to create a frame doll you will have to learn the basics of working with wire.
Fifthly, you will need desire and a good mood! And also our selection to help you. Of course, we could not cover all the dolls that handicrafts knit and show on the vastness of our and foreign Internet. But we tried to show several interesting specimens. The main thing is that all of them have detailed descriptions and diagrams.

Dolls presented in our selection:

soft, they don't know how to stand on their own
frame dolls (they have a wire frame inside, they should not be given to small children)
interior dolls
small dolls - amigurumi
large dolls, most often without a frame
dolls - animals
dolls girls and dolls boys
fairy-tale, cartoon characters (like Santa Claus or Pinocchio).

Not only children, but also adults love dolls. This toy can be a great gift for your family and friends. Many needlewomen even successfully make money by selling their dolls.

Crochet dolls, works of our readers

For a long time, the idea of knitting a neat little ballerina with miniature pointe shoes, a tiny tutu and always a big bun has been spinning in my head :)) At first the idea was figurative, not designed into specific figures. Then I started experimenting, bandaged the nth
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Dear needlework friends! I would like to wish everyone LOVE for a lifetime, and give a small gift - MK “To a couple in love.” I will be glad if this MK is useful to anyone, and I wish everyone light loops and beautiful gifts for the holiday! Us
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Good day, dear needlewomen and site readers! Recently, toys related to the description of the Yo-Yo doll have become very popular. I also didn’t stand aside and knitted just such a doll for my daughter. Design options
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Hello! I would like to show you another version of my performance of the baby yo-yo - the simplest, in my opinion! According to the basic description, a doll is knitted, and the only removable decorations are a hat and a scarf. For a description of the Yo-Yo doll, see the link. At the same time, accessories
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Hello everyone! Lately I’ve been very interested in creating interior toys and now I want to introduce you to this cute baby owl! The baby doll is crocheted from half-wool, crocheted No. 2, with movable handles on a thread fastening. Clothes - cap and dress
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The author of the description is Tatyana Sakadina. My daughter asked me to give her a Lalaloopsy doll and specifically the Sailor for her birthday. I decided to make such a doll for her myself. I knitted from the photo. As I knitted, I made up a description, which I put on display.
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Original pattern and description in English http://stitch.hellooperator.net/free-patterns/amigurumi-doll/ Materials: I used cotton, which is suitable for 3mm crochet. The body, dress and boots are crocheted with the same yarn in 3.5mm crochet (I don't have a description
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Crochet doll Marina from Alexandra Yankovskaya

INTRODUCTION The difficulty level of the master class is simple, i.e. Even a beginner knitter can easily handle it. To knit a toy according to this description, you need to know how to make: 1. Amigurumi ring (or magic, sliding, magic ring) 2. Columns without

Crochet twig doll from Alexandra Yankovskaya

Bobblehead Twig The difficulty level of the master class is simple, i.e. Even a beginner knitter can easily handle it. To knit a toy according to this description, you need to know how to perform: a) adding/decreasing loops according to the circle rule b) amigurumi ring (or magic, sliding,

Gerda doll. Knitted according to Martina's doll's master class. Apparently the hook and threads are thinner than in the description. Our height is 25 instead of 38 cm. Hook 1.5, cotton thread. Author of the doll: Sandrine CAMPANA. The author has a doll about 38 cm, yarn 100%

Crochet dolls, toys from the Internet

Yoka doll. Master class from Larisa Glinchak.

I made all the calculations for hook No. 1.25 and “Iris” yarn, from which, in fact, my Yokis are knitted. The height of the dolls is 13 cm without hairstyle.
With “tails” of about 16cm. Acrylic hair Semenovskaya “Carolina”.
I have never seen such dolls on the Internet before, specifically Yoki, so I decided to show you how I knitted them, maybe it will be useful to someone. So, let's go?

Yoka, unlike many other dolls (this is the first time I’ve encountered this), is knitted with half double crochets, rather than the usual single crochets.

Crocheted dolls in a beret

Doll size: 34 cm. It is crocheted with size 2.5 or 3.

Crocheted dolls “Little ladies”

Crochet Candy Doll

You will need:

flesh-colored yarn,
yarn (small skeins) for hair and clothing,
hook,
filler for toys (holofiber),
stitching needle,
plastic eyes for dolls,
beads or other decorative elements.

Abbreviations used in the description:

V. p. - air loop
sc - single crochet
pst - half double crochet
dc - double crochet
ss4n - double crochet stitch
ss - connecting post
Increase from one loop - knit two stitches
Decrease - knit two stitches together (with a common top)

For knitting you will need:

1. Yarn
Yarn Art Jeans: 03 - milky; 07 - beige; 20 - pink; 62 - white; 68 - jeans.
Alize Baby Wool: 19 - water lily; 62 - cream.
Alize Cotton Gold:87 - charcoal gray.
Hook number 2.
Holofiber filler.
Doll tresses.
Screw eyes 5 mm.
Cardboard (for insoles).
Buttons and beads for decoration.

ALSENA doll. Summer fairy. Posted by Epic Kawaii

Crochet doll Cutie. Description from Nadezhda Volkova

For the body we will need Coton Gold yarn from Alize, 50 g, hook 2. We start knitting from the head and body, knitting in single crochets.

Crochet blotter doll. Author Larisa Klinchak

This doll has only three knitted body parts - head, torso and feet.
In order to knit them, we will need a hook No. 1.75 and flesh-colored yarn of a suitable thickness for the hook and quite a bit of colored yarn for the shoes.
My Blotters are knitted with Magic Baby yarn, 100% acrylic, 50g/185m.

Crochet doll Claire. Author Diana Yashnikova

This doll got in touch. The appearance was easy to come up with, but I had to get a little tricky with the execution of the details, since I still have little experience in crocheting. This is what happened in the end. Description below, if anyone is interested in this particular version of the doll.

For knitting you will need:

Alpina Vera yarn 100g/300m cotton with acrylic flesh-colored 1 skein, Lanoso Alara yarn 50g/140m cotton with acrylic light green, dark green and orange
Hook No. 3, knitting needles No. 3,5 and 3
Ribbon and 2 buttons

Tilda doll crochet (author of description Alona Rabinovich)

The doll's height is 34 cm. An excellent description for those who like Tildas, but never get around to sewing them. If you know how to crochet, then try crocheting this legendary doll.

Doll in striped stockings. Author Lyubov Erlygaeva

The doll's height is 24 cm. She can't stand without support, but she sits great :)

Required:

Acrylic threads 330m/100g (choose your own colors)
Hook No. 2-2.5
Filler

Legend:
VP - air loop
sc - single crochet
pr - increase, knit twice in one loop
dec - decrease, knit two loops together
ss - connecting post
dc - double crochet

Notes: The parts of the toy are knitted in a spiral using two walls of the loop, filled as you knit, unless otherwise indicated.

Crochet doll Chamomile. Author of the description: Anna Sadovskaya.

We invite you to knit a gentle and airy girl, Chamomile.
From a thin thread the girl turns out to be very tiny, but if you take thicker yarn, the doll will be taller.
The toy is knitted in a spiral, without connecting posts and lifting loops.

Crochet doll singer VIOLETTA.

You will need:

Yarn pink, red, gray, black, purple, white, brown
Hook 2.5
Metal wire
Beads for eyes
Darning needle
Filler synthetic winterizer

Crocheted Molly doll. Author of the translation: Tatyana Matyushkova

For the doll you will need:

yarn Gazal Baby Cotton (50g/225m)
safety eyes 12 mm
filler
hook No. 2
buttons
ribbon

Crochet Lalalupsi doll. Author Natalya Gorodnaya

Materials:

yarn of the main flesh color - in the photo Alize cotton gold is milky, the height will be about 20 cm (I will knit from alize bella milky)
yarn of other colors for dresses, accessories, hair (for hair it is better to take wool, it is lighter and more airy)
hook of a suitable size (I have No. 2)
wire for the frame (you can do without it), if there is no frame, then prepare cotton swabs, glue, tape to secure the head
buttons for the eyes of a suitable size (the doll in the photo has 8-9 mm)
filler

Crochet doll Elsbeth

Size 43 cm. The doll is crocheted No. 6.

Crochet princess doll

Material: yarn 30% acrylic, 30% polyamide, 40% wool, hook number 3, 2 safety eyes 1 cm diameter, filler, needle with a large eye.

PIN UP CHUMBLE from MISS HOOK. Translation - Lyuba Kostyunina

To knit a doll you will need:

hooks No. 5 and 3.5 cm
yarn 5 colors and a little red floss for lips
blunt-tipped embroidery needles
scissors
roulette
markers for marking stitches
eyes 2 pcs 12 mm each

Crochet chubby doll

Knitting density: 4 sc = 2.5 cm.
Knit in the round, marking the first stitch of the row with a marker thread.

The doll measures about 43 cm in height.

Materials:

180 m (200 yds) of body color or peach yarn
A little green yarn (letter A) and grape color (letter B) for a dress
Dark brown yarn for hair,
Pink yarn for lips and handbags,
Yellow and green yarn for flowers and leaves.
Hook F (3.75 mm) or G (4 mm)
90 cm (1 yard) tape 10 mm wide
Beads
Filler
Black eyes with a diameter of 9.5 and glue. Eyes can be embroidered.

A mischievous doll girl with an umbrella... Translation by Anastasia Dudnik

Difficulty: medium.
The doll's height is 40-50 cm.

For knitting you will need:

yarn Yarn Nako Pirlant. Colors: white, green, flesh-colored, black, pink, yellow
hook No. 3
wire
filler for toys

Crochet Lily doll from Carola Herbst

Translation - Lyubov Komkova.

Crochet boy doll Leva

For the body we will need Alize cotton gold yarn (milky, light beige, powder or another flesh color), you can take arn art jeans (the thickness is the same as alize). Hook 2.5 In fact, the yarn can be any one that is available to you, the main thing is to choose the color and the hook that matches the yarn.

Crochet doll with a set of clothes

The doll is crocheted from 30% acrylic, 30% polyamide, 40% wool yarn No. 3. You will also need 2 safety eyes with a diameter of 1 cm, a filler, and a needle with a large eye.

Crochet doll Alicia. Translation bysinka738

The finished size of the doll is 40 cm.

To knit a doll you will need:

acrylic yarn 250m/100g in the following colors:
purple, blue, white.
Yarn 600g/100m red, hooks No. 2,5 and 3
Filler for toys
Needle for tapestries
Artificial eyes with a diameter of 12mm
Wire for the frame - 20 cm.
Dry blush.

Crochet doll Rose from Zabbez

Anni - crocheted amigurumi doll

Anni - amigurumi doll Technique: crocheting, amigurumi Size: height 25 cm Materials: yarn, filling, hook, needle Girls of all ages love dolls - they are so beautiful, with a variety of clothes, they can be combed and dressed up. And playing with it off is a pleasure. Knitted dolls

We crochet the simplest frame doll

The author of the description is Vesnukhin from the Country of Mothers. Based on this description, you can create your own unique frame doll. Lira yarn was used for knitting. The doll turned out to be about 13 cm. The insole for the feet can be cut out of plastic covers. The simplest frame

To crochet a doll you will need the following materials: Kartopu organica (body color) – K1216 Kartopu organica (white color) – K010 Gazzal Baby cotton – 3426 Yarnart jeans – 29/562 1.75 mm hook scissors filler (for

Author of the doll: Yulia Suleymanova. The size of the doll is 35-37 cm. To knit the doll, the following materials are needed: The main version of YarnArt JEANS, it will include a description and photo. I will simply show an additional version of Krokha Troitskaya for comparison. I want to clearly see the difference and

Description author: natta_toys. We knit the head 1 6sc in ka 2 6pr 3 1sc, inc*6 4 2sc, inc*6 5 3sc, inc*6 6 4sc, inc*6 7 5sc, inc*6 8 6sc, inc*6 9 7sc, inc*6 10 8sc, inc*6 11-17 60sc 18 8sc, dec*6 19 7sc, dec*6 20 6sc, dec*6 21 5sc, dec*6 22 4sc, dec*6 23 3sc, dec*6 24 2sc, dec *6 leave the thread for sewing, fasten the eyes in 13-14 rows at a distance of 5 loops,

Materials: yarn of similar thickness and a matching hook, eyes, filler, glue, beads for the rim. I used blue and white colors from the Katia Amigurumi set, hair - Pekhorka Children's cotton, head - Lira Vita cotton. Legend: