Sew up the inside welt pocket in the jacket. How to sew and sew an inside pocket to a finished jacket
Before sewing up a hole, you should pay attention to its size and frayed edges, as well as determine the type of fabric from which the torn product is made. A simple open seam will be much easier to sew up than a large torn hole in the fabric. If your thing just ripped open, then you can safely sew it along the seam using strong threads for this. If, on the site of the hole, there is not enough of a significant area of \u200b\u200bthe fabric, then it can be darned with threads or a patch can be applied.
Steps
Needle and thread selection
- Cotton, nylon, silk, jute, blended and other fine fabrics are best sewn with finer needles. In this case, the needle can be either short and have a length of only 2.5–5 cm, or longer if you need it. If you use a thick needle (about 1 mm thick) to work with these fabrics, it can leave visible holes in the fabric. If desired, use a thimble to protect your finger from needle pricks while sewing.
- If you are afraid of breaking the needle, choose a thicker needle. If your fingers ache from the force of piercing the fabric with the needle, help the needle pass through the fabric by resting on a hard surface. Some fabrics (like denim) are difficult to sew, so you have to push the needle with something hard.
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Make sure you have enough thread. If you are not sure about this, try attaching the existing thread to the torn place. Add an extra 25 cm to the estimated required thread length. Stitches eat up a little more thread than the direct parameters of the place being sewn, in addition, you need to have a supply of thread to tie a knot at the end of your work. Remember: the thicker the fabric, the more threads it takes to sew it up. If the fabric is thicker than 5 mm, then you may need twice as much thread.
Insert the thread into the needle. Check that the tip of the thread is even and not fluffy. If the tip of the thread is fluffy, wet it and then twist it with your fingers so that it can easily pass through the eye of the needle. If you have trouble threading your needle, use a needle threader.
Tie a knot. Hold both ends of the thread and tie a knot on the longer one (usually the one that did not go through the eye of the needle). This will keep the thread from popping out of the fabric when you start sewing.
- If you are going to sew up a torn knitted thing, then you will have to make a little more effort when tying a knot. Knitted clothes have very large holes between the threads of the yarn, when compared with ordinary fabric. In this case, to get started, you will need to tie a fastening knot with a needle and thread on the knitted fabric itself so that the thread does not go anywhere.
Sewing up a torn seam
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Find the torn seam. Compared to a regular hole, sewing up a ripped seam is quite simple. Where previously the fabric was sewn together, the thread simply broke and ripped, causing the layers of fabric to separate and form a hole. In most cases, a torn seam can be re-sewn.
- For example, a seam can tear in a pocket, which will cause all the little things to spill out of it, and it can also disperse on a sleeve, exposing the elbow.
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Turn the garment inside out. Get to the desired seam. Then you can lightly iron the torn area with an iron with a suitable heat setting in order to then carefully align the pieces of clothing along the old seam line.
Lay a new seam in the footsteps of the old. This can be done by hand (with a needle and thread) or on a sewing machine, using smaller stitches for extra strength. When laying a new seam at both ends, go a little over the remaining intact part of the old seam. Don't forget to tie a knot when you're done sewing. At the end of the work, be sure to cut off the excess thread. br>
- Sometimes you have to sew up a torn seam on the overhead parts of clothing, for example, on an appliqué or a patch pocket. In this case, it is required to take the threads exactly to match the original threads, since these places are clearly visible. When sewing a new seam in this situation, try to keep the same stitch length as in the original stitch.
Darning holes
Measure the hole. If the hole is too big, you will need patching fabric. If the pocket is torn, it will also have to be sewn up. You will need a patch that is the same color as the torn fabric and large enough to cover the entire hole.
Estimate the size of the hole. The most difficult to sew up are those holes in which a whole section of fabric is missing, for example, frayed holes on the knees of trousers or on the elbows of a jacket. Don't try to mend such holes without patching them, or you'll just pull the fabric together, distorting the garment and making it look untidy. [
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Apply a reinforcing patch. If the fabric is torn near the seam line or in the middle of the fabric (not at the seam), then you need to reinforce the torn area. Cut off a small piece of fabric of the same quality and color as the fabric of the garment. Place this piece under the hole, right side out. Then bring the edges of the hole together as much as possible without wrinkling the fabric. Install a zigzag stitch on the sewing machine and sew the edges of the hole with it, while grabbing the piece underneath to sew the hole as securely as possible.
- The result, of course, will not be invisible, but it will turn out quite neat. If you're sewing on an informal piece of clothing, you can use a contrasting color or patterned fabric for the patch, and add similar patches in other places to make them appear decorative. In this case, the patches can be applied to the front of the garment or made into appliqués to add a special design intent.
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Reinforce torn edges or frayed fabric with classic darning. Start sewing a line of stitches 2.5 cm from the torn area. This is especially important when the fabric has torn or thinned. Starting the darning with some distance from the hole will strengthen the fabric and prevent it from tearing further. Pass the needle through the fabric and carefully thread the dotted stitch, bringing the needle up and down. Try to stick to a stitch length of about 2 mm.
- If the edges of the hole are very frayed, try to strengthen them with a special liquid against fabric fraying before you start darning. This will make the darning more durable.
- If the garment is too tight, the darning may come apart when you put it on. In such a situation, try placing a reinforcing patch under the hole and mending the hole with it. Consider sewing on a button where the hole was mended, if appropriate. In any case, darn in such a way that it consists of a large number of interlacing stitches.
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After the first row of darning stitches, lay the second row in the opposite direction near it, and so on. Repeat rows of stitches in the longitudinal and transverse directions until you completely cover the hole with them.
- If the torn fabric has crumbled heavily, then it may need a turn around the edge. Before darning, fold the edges of the hole to the wrong side and secure them with stitches. The hem can be made just single or double, so that the fabric completely stops crumbling in this place.
Choose the right thread. If possible, use thread to match the torn garment. If the stitches are not visible from the front of the garment, then the color of the threads does not really matter. You can also take threads of a bright color that matches or contrasts with the color of the fabric.
Choose the right needle. If the fabric is thick and rough (denim, leather, layered fabric), use a sharp and thick needle so that you can pierce the fabric with it without too much effort. If the fabric is thin and delicate, then you can take almost any standard sewing needle; however, you can use a thinner needle if you wish.
Probably, many are familiar with the situation when, due to the constant carrying of keys in the pockets of the jacket, their linings very quickly become unusable - the fabric spreads, the seams are torn, and all the contents of the pocket fall into the lining of the product.
Sewing up the lining at the seam rupture or moving the seam slightly away from the spread of the fabric solves this problem only for a short time, after which the pocket becomes unusable again. The best solution in this case may be to replace the worn pocket lining with parts made of new dense fabric.
How to repair pockets or change the lining of pockets in a men's jacket with your own hands
Before proceeding with the repair, it is necessary to turn the jacket on the wrong side. The easiest way to do this is to open a small section of the bottom seam in the lining of one of the sleeves.
Quite often, finished products already have such a hole, sewn on a typewriter along the front side of the lining. It is technological and served precisely for turning things on the front side. You just need to find it. If there is none, you need to rip the seam of the sleeve yourself.
Through the hole, it is necessary to turn out the section of the jacket with the pocket processed on it and carefully study the technology of its processing. If the latter allows you to easily replace the pads, they should be marked with chalk (indicate the top and bottom), as they may vary in size. This simple operation will simplify the process of assembling the pocket with new linings.
Then you need to carefully flog the worn lining of the pocket.
They should be carefully ironed, because they will have to cut new pocket details.
In general, for the manufacture of pocket linings, there is a special fabric, the so-called "pocket". In fact, this is just a high-quality black calico. If not, you can use a piece of any other suitable fabric. The main thing is that it be dense and have low shedding and thread separation. As for the color of the linings, it is not necessary to choose a color similar to the color of the jacket, since this part of the pocket, firstly, is practically invisible, and, secondly, made in an interesting color, it can even become the “highlight” of the updated products.
Lining fabric should be carefully ironed. Then it is necessary to impose on it the details of the plucked lining. With tailor's chalk or soap, you need to outline them along the contours. All seam allowances will be taken into account. Then it remains only to cut out new linings along the marked lines, signing whether they are upper or lower.
After that, new linings should be sewn to the corresponding parts of the pockets.
Then you need to grind the lining of the pockets together. This operation must be performed with a small double stitch. Stitched in this way, the pockets last much longer and are not afraid of any loads.
The restored pocket must be turned out to its original position. Similarly, the second pocket should be repaired, after which it remains only to stitch the hole in the sleeve.
Pocket repairs are complete. Thanks to him, your favorite jacket will be able to serve for more than one season.
And, sometimes, it is this detail that is decisive when it comes to purchasing, for example, a jacket. Therefore, the lack of pockets where they are needed can leave a man without a purchase. But this situation is easy to fix!
In this tutorial, you will learn how to sew and sew an inside pocket to a finished men's jacket.
You will need:
A patch of lining fabric;Zipper;
Tailor's scissors ();
Tailor's pins ();
Threads and needle for sewing
How to sew an inside pocket
Step 1
For a pocket measuring 17x19 cm, cut a rectangle 40 cm long and 19 cm wide (including allowances).
The size of the pocket also depends on the wishes of the owner of the jacket.
Step 2
Turn the allowances for short sections of the pocket detail to the wrong side, baste and iron.
Step 3
Baste or pin a zipper to short sections with tailor's pins.
Step 4
Attach the zipper with a special foot.
Step 5
Close the zipper only to the middle of the part and turn the pocket inside out.
Step 6
Align the pocket so that the zipper is as high as possible and pin off the side seams with tailor's pins.
Step 7
Sew the side seams. In the zipper area, sew back and forth twice as a bartack.
Step 8
Cut off the zipper tails.
Step 9
Finish open seam allowances with a narrow zigzag stitch and turn the pocket right side out.
The side seams of such a pocket can also be sewn from the front side. In this case, treat the open sections with an oblique inlay.Step 10
Iron your pocket.
Step 11
Delay the pocket around the perimeter.
How to sew an inside pocket
Step 12
Sew the resulting pocket by hand, with blind stitches, to the lining of the jacket shelf.
Exactly the same pocket can be sewn on the lining. How to do this, see.
Important!
The fabric for the pocket and lining should be light but strong. Otherwise, the pocket will weigh down and pull on the lining of the jacket.Even if there are still frosts ahead, we will begin to prepare for spring.
We sew a light jacket on a synthetic winterizer. (although it can be made warmer if desired.)
We will sew something like this:
This, of course, is a down jacket, but ours will be even more beautiful.
We will not suffer with a stitch of fabric, there are a lot of fabrics already quilted on a synthetic winterizer on sale. Beautifu...
When choosing a fabric, pay attention to whether there is a thin interlining between the main upper fabric and the padding polyester. If there is, then very good. The synthetic winterizer will not climb to the surface.
It's rare, but it happens.
We need fabrics: jacket length + sleeve length + 20 cm for hem and seam allowances. If your size is from the 50th, then add another 15-20 cm to the collar.
I still did not manage to buy already quilted fabric, we will quilt ourselves.
ready-made ones were either expensive: 2,500 rubles a meter, or lining fabric was fastened onto a synthetic winterizer. It was passed off as a "jacket" at 650 rubles per meter.
Raincoat fabric for stitching needs a thin one.
The girls asked about natural fabrics. They are usually denser and quilted for insulation will "stand". Natural jacket fabrics are more suitable for men's jackets and for sewing parkas.
So my expenses are:
Raincoat fabric (250 rubles per meter) - 1.5 m
synthetic winterizer (60 rubles per meter with a width of 1.5 m) - 2 m (just in case, 1.7 m is also possible)
The main fabric is obtained for 540 rubles.
You will also need lining fabric.
Take the usual synthetic, inexpensive, durable, which does not break apart in your hands. As much as raincoat fabrics.
If the fabric is an unusual color, the tone of which is difficult to match the zipper, then first find a suitable zipper, and then adjust the length of the jacket to fit it.
If the jacket is black, white, gray, etc., then it will be easier to pick up a zipper for it.
We will buy later, the right size.
When the jacket is long, it is convenient if the zipper has 2 sliders. When you sit down, you can unfasten the bottom.
The synthetic winterizer is thinner, thicker - puffier. Note that the thicker the padding polyester, the puffier your jacket will be.
There is also a holofiber and some other insulating materials. Take any insulation, except for batting. With batting, the jacket will be unbearable.
We will quilt already cut out details.
There was a question about what threads are suitable for stitching. I saw on sale jacket fabrics quilted with thick threads, such as jeans are sewn. Handsomely.
But can you quilt just as beautifully?
Thick threads usually create problems when sewing. If you make a weak tension, then the loops on the front side of the fabric appear, if you make the tension stronger, it tightens the fabric.
So most likely we will quilt with the same threads as we sew.
I can't say for sure yet. I will open my jacket, try different threads for stitching, and then I will tell you.
Some girls asked about knitted cuffs on the sleeves. Not every city has ready-made cuffs for sale, you can, of course, knit them yourself, but I planned sleeves without cuffs.
Taking measurements
Tune in, taking measurements is a very important stage.
I remind you that you need to tie a cord or elastic band at the waist to fix the location of the waist line. We have a lot of measurements just from her.
To build a pattern for our quilted jacket, we need the following measurements:
1. Chest girth (measured horizontally through the most protruding points of the chest, the protrusion of the shoulder blades is taken into account on the back)
2. Waist circumference (horizontally at the narrowest point of the figure)
3. Girth of the hips (horizontally along the widest place of the hips through the most protruding points of the buttocks, taking into account the protrusion of the abdomen)
4. Neck girth (horizontally along the base of the neck)
5. Shoulder length (measured from the line of intersection of the shoulder and the line of the circumference of the neck to the end point of the shoulder)
6. Shoulder girth (measured at the fullest part of the arm)
7. Width of the front (measured along the front between the armpits)
8. Back width (measured along the back between the armpits)
9. Length of the back to the waist (measured from the point of the beginning of the shoulder to the waist line).
10. Front length to waist (measured vertically along the front from the point of intersection of the base of the neck and the shoulder line through the most protruding point of the chest to the waist)
11. Side height (measured from the waist line to the armpit)
12. Sleeve length (measured on a slightly bent arm from the end point of the shoulder to the wrist)
13. Wrist circumference
14. Shoulder height oblique (measured along the back from the spine at the waistline to the extreme point of the shoulder)
15. The length of the product from the waist (measured from the waistline to the line of the desired length of the product)
The girls asked how to take measurements from themselves.
Difficult. Some measures are impossible at all. For example, back width.
Someone will have to ask.
Show the assistant a picture of how to take the desired measurement, and check the correctness of the execution in the mirror.
If you don’t tend to change your body size often (well, at least the length :))), then measurements taken once can be useful for sewing several things.
Building a pattern
I will not torment you with the theory of selection and calculation of increases for a jacket.
I offer ready-made figures. If you have doubts, or you are used to checking everything, then measure some ready-made jacket, the degree of fitting of which suits you. You can take your increment values.
In any case, increases and their distribution by standards are not constant. Only you determine what degree of freedom your jacket will have. Bigger gains give more freedom to fit, smaller gains will make the jacket fit more.
1. I suggest taking an increase in the chest (to the whole chest girth) from 15 to 20 cm. No more than 20 cm. If you take 20 cm, the jacket will be very loose.
2. An increase in the Girth of the hips - 10 - 15 cm. If you take a smaller increase in the chest, then take a smaller value for the hips.
3. An increase to the waist will turn out by itself, then you will see from the construction.
4. increase to the width of the back 4-5 cm, to the width of the chest - 3-4 cm.
About the rest of the increase, I write in the construction.
immediately write the increase in the measurement plate, so as not to get confused.
I do this: opposite the name of the measurement, I write the exact measurement from the figure, and next to it is a measurement with an increase and circle it.
And it is clear that when building we use a measure from a circle, and a measure from a figure is useful for checking or for building another pattern.
shelf
1. Draw a horizontal line. This is the waistline. We sign so as not to get confused.
2. Stepping back from the right edge of the paper 5 cm, we put a point on the waist line through which we draw a perpendicular. This is the mid front line.
3. We set aside from the waist up along this line of the middle of the front the measurement of Dtp + 1 cm, the so-called increase in the package - by the thickness of the quilted fabric (length of the front waist + 1 cm). Let's call the resulting point A3.
4. Draw a perpendicular to the point A3 to the left.
5. On this perpendicular, set aside the value (Osh (Girth of the neck): 6). Let's call the resulting point A4.
6. Down from point A3, set aside the depth of the neck. It is 1 cm larger than the width. Point A5
We increase the neckline of the shelf in width and depth by 1.5 cm so that the collar does not sting :)
8. From the received point down, set aside 4 cm for the bevel of the shoulder. Let's call point 4.
9. We draw the line A4.4. Extend a little beyond point 4.
10. From the waist down along the line of the middle of the front, set aside the value (About (girth of the hips): 5).
We draw a perpendicular from the resulting point to the left. This is the hip line. We sign.
That is, the distance from the waist line to the hip line is calculated by the formula (Ob: 5).
Back
1. From the middle of the front along the hip line, set aside the value (Chest girth) plus the Increase in the chest: 2) (Og + Pg): 2.
Draw a perpendicular from the obtained point. This is the middle line of the back.
2. Along the line of the middle of the back up from the waist, we set aside the measurement Dst + 2 cm, an increase due to the thickness of the quilted fabric (Length of the back to the waist + 2). We call the resulting point A.
3. Draw a perpendicular from point A to the right. Set aside the value on it (Osh (Girth of the neck): 6). Set point A1.
4. Down from point A set aside 2 cm. This is the depth of the neck.
After drawing the neck line, expand it by 1.5 cm. This is necessary for outerwear.
We increase the neckline of the back only in width by 1.5 cm. Leave the depth until trying on 2 cm.
5. From point A1 to the right, we postpone the measurement Dp plus 1 cm for a good fit and plus 1 cm for freedom (Shoulder length + 2 cm)
6. From this point down, set aside 3 cm for the bevel of the shoulder. We get point 3.
7. We draw the line A1,3. On it once again set aside the measurement Dp + 3 cm.
Build a tuck in the middle of the shoulder. The middle of the tuck is perpendicular to the line of the shoulder. Dart length 8-9 cm, tuck solution 2 cm.
8. We check whether the measurement corresponds to Vpk (Shoulder Height oblique) on the drawing. We measure from point Tc to point 3. If more, leave it like that until fitting. The main thing is not less. If less, then reduce the bevel of the shoulder (from the horizontal line of the shoulder, we do not set aside 3 cm down, but smaller. As much as you need according to your measure of the Vpk).
9. From the waistline, we set aside the measurement Wb (Height of the side). We draw a line from the middle of the back to the middle of the front. Let's sign the "line of the chest."
At the intersection of the line of the chest with the line of the middle of the front, we get the point Gp, at the intersection with the line of the middle of the back, we get the point Gs.
Opening and stitch
The hardest part is over. Only pleasures remain
cutting
Before cutting, be sure to check the fabric for defects. It is ideal to do this even when buying or when receiving from a client. But before cutting, we examine the fabric again, suddenly something was missed or a new one appeared.
If you are worried that you may have built the pattern incorrectly, are afraid to ruin the fabric, then cut the jacket from unnecessary cheap fabric, from an old sheet, for example.
Try it on, make sure that the jacket still "fits" on you, that the sleeve sits in the armhole, etc., and only then cut your raincoat fabric.
We impose patterns on the fabric, observing the direction of the shared thread, the direction of the pattern (if any) and the pile, pin with tailor's pins.
We circle each pattern with chalk along the contour, we draw the second contour stepping back to the seam allowance.
Since the jacket is outerwear, and even with a padding polyester, and if you still quilt yourself, then allowances for seams along the shoulder, side seams, along the armhole, along the middle seam of the sleeve we make 2 cm, along the neck - 1-1.3 cm , allowance for hemming the bottom and bottom of the sleeve is at least 5 cm.
Cut out without unfastening the pattern from the fabric.
Small details must also be applied to the fabric, check that everything fits, but do not cut it out. During fitting, sometimes you have to change the length of the collar, and even the shape. It is better to cut out small details after trying on.
Stitch
For stitching, we draw on the front side of the cut details with a sharply sharpened remnant (chalk can be poorly peeled off the fabric) lines along which we will quilt. It can be rhombuses, squares, just horizontal or vertical lines. Do not invent a very complex pattern, it will be very difficult to quilt.
We impose a part, for example a shelf, on a synthetic winterizer and cut out a synthetic winterizer along the contour of the part with a small allowance, cm 2-2.5.
We chop off the detail of the cut and the synthetic winterizer along the contour and along the stitch lines quite often so that it does not move during work.
First, we lay a line along the contour of the part, stepping back from the edge of 4-5 mm, cut off the extra padding polyester along the edges, then we quilt the entire part along the pre-drawn lines.
The stitch length is maximum.
Fitting
I think everyone has already cut their jacket. Let's move on to the example.
For sampling you need:
1. Sweep the shoulder and side seams, the middle seam of the sleeve, sweep the sleeves. "Collect" the product.
2. we do not sweep the collar, pockets, cuffs, but we prepare at least patterns
Fitting
We pierce the product as it will be in finished form.
What you need to pay attention to when trying on:
1. The overall balance of the product.
We look to see if the shelf or back is overtightening. This may be the case if the measurements of the length of the back to the waist or the shelf to the waist are incorrectly taken.
2. The position of the shoulder seams.
We look if the line of the shoulder seam goes too far to the shelf or back
3. Shoulder length.
The length of the shoulder should be proportional to the silhouette of the product (a loose silhouette corresponds to an elongated shoulder)
4. Shoulder height
We look for diagonal folds in the shoulder area, which disappear if the shoulder is raised.
5. Neckline
The fabric should not "run" around the neck.
The neckline should not be too large, but it should not be tight either.
6. Side seams.
They should be vertical unless the model says otherwise.
7. The degree of fit of the product in the area of the chest, waist and hips.
Perhaps we are talking to the client.
8. The width of the product at the level of the measurements of the width of the chest and the width of the back.
Move a little to determine the degree of freedom in this area.
9. Bottom of the product.
We check the horizontality of the bottom line, if the model does not intend otherwise.
10. Sleeve fit.
See if the sleeve "sits" well. I point out the diagonal creases on only one side of the sleeve to the incorrect fit of the sleeve.
Check if the sleeve height matches the armhole. The height of the eyelet needs to be changed if it has diagonal creases on both sides.
11. We specify the length of the product and the length of the sleeve.
12. We specify the shape and size of the collar by applying a pattern.
13. Refine the shape and size of the pocket and flaps. If it is a consignment note, we pin the pocket pattern in place, if it is welt, we simply mark it with lines.
We mark all changes, stabbing with tailor's pins, we additionally do
Clarifying notes.
We make changes to the cut according to the pinned pins and according to the notes that you made during
Sample time.
The second fitting is necessary if the figure or model of the jacket is complex, and after the first fitting it is not clear whether the product will fit well after making changes to the cut.
The second fitting is carried out in the same way as the first.
basics
After trying on, we make adjustments to the cut. We mark the location of the pockets.
The site has a video fitting of another jacket, see if it can be useful in some way:
Pockets
I decided to simplify - we will make a pocket just with a piece of paper, without a zipper.
Such a pocket can be made on both shelves below, and as an internal one - on a lining in the chest area.
Be sure to practice making a pocket on a piece of fabric. Do 1,2,3 pockets for training until you get a good one.
The width of the pocket (leaves) in finished form is 2 cm, length - 14-15 cm for a women's jacket, 16-17 cm for a man's. The main thing is that the hand freely enters the pocket.
We need to cut out:
A leaflet (a rectangle from the main fabric of the fabric is 4 cm longer than the entrance to the pocket and 6-7 cm wide),
Valance (rectangle from the main fabric of the same size as the leaflet), pocket burlap (from lining fabric, can be from the main one)
Glue the leaflet with glue.
1. draw the entry point to the pocket:
Width, pocket length and midline (turquoise line)
2. on a piece of paper and on a valance at a distance of 1 cm from the edge, draw lines of stitching
3. from the side of the middle of the shelf, attach a leaflet to the midline face to face, from the side - a gap
3. Sew leaflet and valance
4. make a cut along the midline not reaching 1-1.5 cm to the end of the lines, at the ends - obliquely to the corners (pink line on the pocket marking)
Be careful not to cut to the last stitch 1-1.5 mm, so as not to damage the thread
5. turn the valance and leaflet on the wrong side, sweep the leaflet, folding it to the desired width - up to 2 cm
6. sew 1 piece of pocket burlap to the leaflet (into the seam of attaching the leaflet to the shelf)
7. unscrew and sweep the burlap as it will be in finished form, sharpen the pocket in the face from the side where the leaflet is attached (for fastening and finishing). You can lay a line stepping back 1-2 mm, you can use the foot.
8. sew 2 piece of pocket burlap - to the free edge of the valance
9. fasten the injections (according to the width of the pocket), which we got when notching to the corners, with a line, as if to attach them to a piece of paper
10. stitch pocket burlap details
11. Sew the remaining 3 sides of the pocket
Even if you do not make welt pockets on your jacket, learning how to make this pocket will be very useful to you.
Top sewing. Lining
The jacket is sewn simply:
1. stitching the shoulder seams
2. sew the top collar into the neck of the jacket
3. attach a zipper to both shelves
4. we sew the sleeve into the armhole
5. we grind the side seam and at the same time the seam of the sleeve
Lining
The lining is cut out according to the same pattern as the top of the jacket, minus the bands and back facing (I highlighted them in pink).
From the main fabric we cut out the selection and facing of the back
From the lining - the rest
The seam allowances at the shoulder, side seams and on the lined sleeve are the same as on the top of the jacket.
On the bottom, the seam allowance is 1.5 cm, on the bottom of the sleeve - 3-4 cm
1. stitching the pick to the shelf
2. we sew the facing of the back to the detail of the back
3. we stitch the shoulder seams on the lining
4. we sew the lower collar (from the main fabric) into the neck of the lining
5. we sew the sleeve into the armhole of the lining
6. we grind the side seam of the lining and at the same time the seam of the sleeve
On the lining in the chest area, you can make a pocket. You can invoice or not be too lazy and make a welt with a leaflet, such as I described in the last post.
Jacket is ready!
Stop being lazy, let's finish the jacket. I have walked mine a couple of times.
Here's what happened
And here is how the lining is sewn to the top of the jacket:
1. We fold the upper part of the jacket and the lining face to face, grind along the middle of the shelf, where the zipper is, and along the collar. We lay the finishing line (stepping back on the foot) along the zipper and along the flyaway part of the collar.
2. We turn the sleeve inside out, straighten the lining on the sleeve. If necessary, cut the lining of the sleeve, it should be the same length as the sleeve in the finished tucked form.
3. We process the bottom of the sleeve to a hem with a closed cut (tuck 1 cm, tuck another as much as you left for the hem). The lining is simply inserted into the collar.
4. We sew the upper and lower collars together along the seam allowance (the one between the collar and the neckline)
5. We attach the lining to the top in the shoulder area.
6. We process the bottom of the jacket in a hem with a closed cut (tuck it 1 cm, tuck it in as much as you left for the hem). The lining is simply inserted into the collar.
Jacket is ready!
Here is the back view without the belt
Here with a belt
My mannequin, unlike me, has a size 2-3 chest. In my opinion, this jacket fits him perfectly without any darts. So this cut seems to be suitable for both thin and curvy girls.
P.S. Girls! All questions about the cut and tailoring of this jacket you can ask the author of the article Elena Kucherova
Leather jacket repair
A new problem. The entrance to the pocket of the leather jacket was torn.
You shouldn't grieve. There is always a way out of any situation. You can throw the thing away, or you can try to repair it. You never know what you can do till you try.
We do not want to change the design of the jacket, so we choose a restoration close to the original.
1. Vyparivaem belt
2. Undermine the side seams. If possible, I do not cut the entire product so that there is less work.
3. In this case, cut out pieces of damaged skin on one side and symmetrically on the other. 
By chance, a piece of skin of the right color turned out to be at hand. We cut out blanks from it according to the size of the cut out flaps, not forgetting to add a 2 cm seam allowance and outline the entry points into the pocket.
With the help of pins, we transfer the marks to the wrong side. 
We will prepare 2 doleviks from adhesive non-woven fabric 4 cm wide, length: pocket entrance plus 4 cm 
and glue it with a not very hot iron without steam through a paper towel. Be sure to check the temperature on an unnecessary piece of skin. 
On the front side, draw the frame of the entrance to the pocket 
Burlap pockets with surviving facings will be ironed, if necessary, we will restore, sew holes 
Put the burlap on the drawn frame and sew to one side ,
leaving long tails of thread. We bring the threads to the wrong side and tie knots. Do not cut. Tails will come in handy later. 
On the wrong side, we outline the frame, if this has not been done before, and cut out the entrance to the pocket. We cut in the middle from the center to the ends without reaching 1 cm to the edge. We cut to the corners at 45 degrees. 
To fix the allowances, glue the transfer tape around the perimeter. If there is none, you can smear it with shoe glue and nail it with a hammer 
