How to braid a steel cable correctly. How to braid a steel cable - a process diagram that is understandable to everyone

The most difficult, but also reliable way to create a loop (ogon) at the end of the cable is weaving. This method is better known as chalka. The technology of binding into fire is not difficult, but requires physical effort. You can weave any cable, the main thing is that there is enough hand strength for this. In the future, under a critical load, such a loop will not open, and if a break occurs, then definitely not on it.

Materials and tools:

• sharpened steel rod;
• insulating tape;
• tight gloves.

Weaving rope into a loop

The first step is to prepare the steel rod. For a sling with a diameter of 4 mm, it is enough to sharpen a long nail or screw into a kind of awl. For a thicker cable, you can use a pry bar and a strong screwdriver.

The end of the sling is divided into a pair of identical strands. This is done with the tip of the rod.

You should work with gloves. The rod is threaded through at the beginning of the cable, after which it is used as a lever. It should be rotated against the direction of binding. You should get 2 dense bundles without a separate wire breaking out. It is desirable that their length be 2 times longer than required to form a loop. It is better to leave the filamentous cable at the base of the weaving.

Next, the fluffy strands are aligned in the middle crosswise so as to obtain an eyelet of the desired length.

After that, the remaining ends are alternately screwed into the screw body of the loop. They fit perfectly in those places where the braid was previously woven.

First, one branch of the cable is screwed to the whole sling, and then the second.

It turns out a finished loop, but with protruding long tails.

They also need to be woven. Here begins a more difficult task, especially if a massive cable is being pulled. You need to cut the threads, because further they will interfere.

You should take the loop in one hand or clamp it in a vise. A rod is attached to the beginning of the loop.

It must be rotated counterclockwise. As a result, the rod begins to twist into the cable, while inserting the remaining ends of the loop into it.

As soon as the tails are completely woven into the cable, the rod can be pulled out. On this work can be considered almost finished. It remains only to wind the electrical tape on the double section where the wire protrudes.

It is needed to prevent injections in the fingers and palms. Instead, you can use heat shrink tubing or wind a thin soft wire in solid turns.
The loop prepared in this way can be used anywhere. Such chalk is used by miners and builders. In everyday life, you can braid a cable for towing or for lifting a bucket from a well.

Bursting tests

Let's take a cable with two braided loops using the same technology, but of a smaller diameter.

Steel is a material that perfectly withstands the heaviest load. Properly woven elements form a powerful support. Depending on the type of weaving, only a certain structure is selected for special requirements and tasks. But even the strongest steel rope can break, after which it becomes necessary to create a loop at the end. And you can weave a steel cable yourself, even in the field.

The purpose of the steel cable

Steel cables in most cases are the main load-bearing element of transport, lifting and road mechanisms. They have found their application in such industries as oil refining, coal industry, agricultural and transport engineering, construction industry, river and sea transport. The choice of steel cables to be used depends on the nature and mass of the given load.

The main scope of use of cargo steel cables is traction and lifting industrial mechanisms. These are overhead cranes, drilling devices, stretch marks for various operational purposes, excavators, a ship's lifting transport system, and oil production devices. For the movement of objects with people (hoisting mechanisms of mines, elevators), cargo-human ropes are chosen.

Reinforcing steel ropes are mainly used for reinforcing reinforced concrete structures. Also in construction, a steel cable is used as load-bearing elements of various structures, an auxiliary element of earth-moving equipment. Thanks to a reliable design, it is easy to withstand the steel cable loads that are exerted during construction manipulations, for example, lifting concrete slabs to a height.

Rope slings are also made from a metal cable - flexible load-handling devices that are necessary for suspending cargo from hooks and other working bodies of a lifting machine. Slings are used when performing loading and unloading operations and transporting especially bulky goods, in which there are special loops, eyes and clamps for gripping.

Steel wire structure

A steel rope is a flexible metal product that is made from steel wire and consists of strands twisted together. High carbon galvanized wire is typically 0.4 - 3 mm in diameter with a tensile strength in the tensile procedure of 130 - 200 kgf/mm2.

In the middle, the cables have a core. The top of the rope is coated with aluminum or zinc to impart stainless properties. The core plays the role of an internal support for the strands, prevents them from falling through to the center and is needed to resist the radial pressure of the cores under loads on the rope, preventing transverse deformation of the product. It is made from different materials: metallic, organic, natural or synthetic.

Organic cores are made from hemp, sisal, manila or cotton fabric, they contribute to the formation of a round shape of the rope and, when impregnated with an anti-rotting lubricant (gun grease, petroleum jelly, rope ointment), reduce friction between the wires. Mineral cores are made from asbestos and used in cables that are designed to work at high temperatures. The lubricant, which is impregnated with the mineral core, penetrates into the places between the wires during the use of the steel rope, while protecting it from corrosion.

For the outer layer, it is customary to use a thicker wire, so the steel rope is indispensable for work associated with friction or in chemical environments. The zinc coating of the wire, which enhances the characteristics of the steel cable and protects the rope from rusting, comes in three varieties: LS - for light conditions, SS - for medium conditions, ZhS - for harsh conditions and use in sea water. The wire is produced in three grades: I, II and B. The highest quality wire, which has high mechanical strength and toughness, is the material of the highest grade B.

The structure of the rope is indicated by three numbers, expressing the number of strands, the number of wires per strand and organic cores. For example, a record of this type “6 X 37 + 1 OS” means: a six-strand cable, which has 37 wires in strands and one organic core. The more wires in the strand and the smaller they have a diameter, the more flexible the steel cable will be.

Steel ropes, in addition to a significant bearing capacity, are highly flexible. One of the indisputable advantages of such cables is their resistance to sharp dynamic loads. Since the wear of these products occurs gradually, you will be able to identify defects in these devices in a timely manner.

Varieties of construction cables

Depending on the number of wires in the cable, steel ropes come in various flexibility - less flexible ropes of 42 wires; flexible steel cables of 72 wires, each strand has 12 pieces around a hemp core; products of increased flexibility, which are made of 144 thin wires in each strand, 24 around the hemp core.

Steel cables are divided into three types by design:

1. A single lay rope consists of one strand, the wire of which has the same diameter and is twisted in one or several layers (up to four) in a spiral around one wire.
2. A double lay cable is called a cable work cable. It is made by twisting several strands in one or two layers around a single metal, mineral or organic core.
3. Three-strand cables are twisted from several cables, which in this case are called strands. Strands of triple and double lay ropes consist of wires that can have the same or different diameters.

According to the level of twisting, steel cables are twisting and low-rotating. According to the core material of the rope - with a metal core (steel single-strand and steel wire) and with an organic core (fiber, natural, synthetic, fiber, fiber reinforced).

According to the combination of lay directions of steel cables and its elements, the ropes are:

• one-sided lay: the direction of the rope and the lay in the wire strands are the same;
• cross lay: the direction of the lay of the wires in the strands is opposite to the direction of the lay of the strands into the rope;
• combined lay: with simultaneous practice in the rope of strands of the left and right lay directions;
• triple lay: cross lay with the opposite direction of the lay of wires and strands.

Use of steel wire

I would like to warn you in advance against using very thin ropes, although the price of a steel cable in this case will not be too high. Also remember that the thinner the wire, the more the cable is subject to wear and corrosion. The most corrosion-resistant cables are made of stainless or galvanized wire. Cables made of copper-plated or non-galvanized wire can quickly rust and break, especially in bends.

The most reliable and functional in operation is a galvanized steel cable. The technique of its manufacture consists in the specific interlacing of steel wire of various transverse diameters. In addition, the core, which is located in the central part, is coated with a special lubricant and anti-rotten impregnation to enhance resistance to various types of influences.

The main task of caring for a steel cable in the conditions of their use is to preserve the structure and shape of the product, which was given to it during manufacture, and protect it from corrosion and mechanical damage. When storing a rope that is wound on a drum, its axis should be parallel to the floor on which the drum is installed.

During long-term storage, the products should be periodically inspected along the outer layer, they are also applied with a continuous film of rope lubricant. Torsiol-55, Torsiol-35, GOST 20458-75, BOZ-1 can be used as a lubricant according to technical documents. The cable must be cleaned of dirt and old grease in various ways before applying the lubricant. The easiest is cleaning with cotton ends and steel brushes. When it is applied to the cable, the lubricant temperature should reach 80-100 degrees Celsius.

Weaving of steel cable

Of course, steel ropes have greater strength. However, if you have identified a break in the steel cable, you need to carry out work to restore it, which begins with an inspection of the cable. At the break point, the ends should be removed with metal scissors or wire cutters. The main thing is that the ends of the rope are cut off evenly.

For this, the cable is placed on the edge of an I-beam or channel beam and sorted out with a hammer. Or cut off unnecessary parts with a cutting wheel, if an angle grinder is available, and dispose of. For safety reasons, it is recommended to carry out all work with the cable in mittens or gloves.

The cable must be untwisted to a length of 60-80 centimeters and divided into strands. Then one strand must be bent at a distance of 30 centimeters from the whole part of the cable and braided with another, moving towards the main part of the steel cable. Using the mount, the rope must be braided for another one or two turns with the free end. Similar actions should be done with the following strands. The loop will end up with ugly protruding ends.

Wrap one end on two interlaced branches and hide, wind the other end in the opposite direction. Better yet, braid the existing three parts, giving them the shape of an ordinary pigtail. With the help of the third strand, you need to wrap the pigtail, weave it into a loop and wrap it around the pigtail again. The procedure is continued until there are free ends, while each rod is directed towards the previous one and their ends are brought inside the pigtails.

To avoid injuries and greater reliability, it is recommended to fix the pigtail in several places with clamps, the role of which can be played by pieces of steel wire, which are tightly wound with pliers and hidden inside the pigtail. At the end of work, for safety reasons, the braid is wrapped with insulating tape, this is shown in the video on how to braid a steel cable.

To obtain a strong and reliable connection in the process of weaving a steel cable, it is necessary to create a uniform load on the strands and strive for their symmetrical laying. And this is true for different types of steel ropes. In the process of work, it is recommended to periodically crimp the places of weaving.

Creating a loop on the cable

In some situations, it becomes necessary to learn how to braid a loop on a steel cable - when lowering submersible pumps, to create a stretch for the antenna and tow cable. It will not work to tie a knot from a steel rope due to its rigidity. But the loop at its end you can make quite neat. As with weaving a steel rope, you need to cut off the ends of the tattered cable. Lay the cable on a massive base and hit the sharp end of the hammer several times in one place. You can use a grinder for this purpose.

As a result, you will get a smooth, neat end of the rope without kinks. Unwind the steel cable about 60-80 centimeters. Using a screwdriver, you need to divide it into two parts in thickness. With a 7-strand rope, there should be 4 strands in one part, and 3 strands in the second part. Wrap both parts around each other and make a loop about 10 centimeters in diameter at the end of the steel cable.

When doing this, take into account the reduction in the diameter of the loop of the rope during the weaving process by the size of the thickness. To form a loop, the main 4-strand part of the steel cable must be bent towards the 3-strand part. Lay the second part of the rope in the grooves of the main part of the rope.

Wrap around the handle alternately the remaining ends of the two strands that are woven. Next, wrap each of the four free strands alternately first around the handle, then weave this strand into a loop and wrap it around the handle again. For reliable termination of the loop, at the end of the cable, ensure that each strand passes into the loop, in relation to the previous one, in the opposite direction.

Cover the ends of the previous strands of steel rope with the subsequent ones until two strands are free in your hands. Gently insert them between the strands of the cable loop with a screwdriver. Wrap this place with insulating tape. They can also be embedded in flattened tubes. In this way, you will be able to hide the ends of the steel cable and make the loop on the rope less traumatic.

Fire on a steel cable

Before making the fire, it is necessary to apply a strong temporary mark at a certain distance from the end of the steel rope, fix the ends of the strands with marks, and then dissolve the end part of the cable onto the strands. Then the cable should be laid in the form of a loop of the desired size and the running strands should be punched. There are many methods of punching, but we will consider only the most common method.

It is convenient to perform the first punching if the fire turns its curved part towards the worker, and the running strands are placed on the right. Draw the first running strand into the cable against its descent from right to left, under 3 root strands. The second and third strands are pierced under two and one strands, respectively. When you make the punching of the first 3 strands, you need to turn the fire over, and then punch the 4th and 5th running strands.

The fourth strand is punched under two, and the 5th - under one strand of a steel cable. Then you can turn the fire over again and give it its original position, punch the sixth running strand into the cable, which is inserted under one strand of the steel product in the direction of its descent. This completes the first punching procedure.

During the subsequent punching, each running strand is inserted from right to left into the rope according to the rule “strand through one under two”. At the end of each punching process, the strands should be tightened, which can be done, depending on the thickness and strength of the steel cable, manually or with the help of hoists or a vice. To reduce the thickness of the steel rope at the point of punching, it is recommended to punch three strands four times, and the rest three. Chop off the ends of the running strands at the very rope, after which the product is caged with tinned wire.

The rope is a complex wire product, it bears a great responsibility, therefore the quality of the steel rope must be at its best, and it is so important to know how to properly braid the steel cable or make a loop and fire on it.

In the manufacture of standing rigging for a sailing vessel, a stainless steel cable of 7x19 design can be used. In cross section, it looks something like this:

The traditional termination of the ends of such a cable by weaving an eye with a thimble is carried out without special tools, which gives high strength and reliability of the rigging. A variant of "crane" weaving is described here, which gives a very dense and compact fire.

Tools

For work you need: a pair of worn-out flat screwdrivers with "clogged" edges, one of which is sharpened "on a cone", pliers, or better pliers, a hammer, a roll of masking tape and gloves. It is highly desirable to have in addition a small angle grinder with a cutting disc, and a solid vise.

They work, for example, like this. Preparation for punching the first strand.

Weaving technology

We prepare the cable - we make a brand at the end of a pair of turns of masking tape and cut off the protruding parts of the strands. We measure three or four hoses from the end of the cable (full turns of any strand) and make another brand in this place. Until this point, the cable will unwind into strands. After that, we try on the thimble to the cable, roll it along the cable and find the place of the top mark in the middle of the thimble.

We securely fasten the middle of the thimble to the cable with nylon. To do this, it is convenient to use strands from scrap nylon ends, which are always on the boat.

We bend the cable around the thimble and fix it in a vise.

Securely (!) We fix the cable on the thimble. The appearance of the product will depend on this. I use a nylon cable folded in half, held by the "eight", tightening the loop of the cable around the thimble. Once again, this should be a really tight and reliable fastening that does not allow the cable to move relative to the thimble.

We fix the thimble in a vice so that the “tail” is on the left. This is the "front" side of the future fire. We are looking for the first strand, it is shown by an arrow. We weave this strand to the thimble and punch it under two strands of the cable on the other side of the “downhill” fire - from left to right. In the same place, but under one strand, we break through the strand next to the first on the left (second). The braided strands are numbered clockwise.

It will look something like this.

The ends of the braided strands must be fixed with stamps from a pair of turns of masking tape.

We turn the fire on the other side, or go to it from the other side :).

In the depths of the flame there is strand number six, adjacent to the first, we unwind and punch it under two strands so that it comes out next to the first. From this side, the punches go “against the descent”, that is, from right to left. This is easier to do if the cable is punched with piles and the strand is introduced into the punching obviously higher, then settling it in place.

The next strand - number five, breaks through there, but under one strand.

Again we return to the "front" side of our fire.

Strand number three is introduced in the same place where the first and second made their way, but "against the descent." The photo shows how this is done with a pile. Under the same strand, where the third was pierced, the fourth is carried out, but on the other hand - “downhill”, and UNDER the third. The core (it can be distinguished in the photo and in life in a different direction of the twist) breaks through in the same way as the fourth strand, and comes out nearby. Here options and personal creativity are possible, the core can beautifully go to the first strand :).

On this, the first punching of the fire is completed. We check the correct location of the strands, tighten the slack, cut off the core, upset the strands in place with a hammer.

Second punch

In order for the "crane" fire to acquire the necessary strength, three or four punches are enough. The second and subsequent punches are made against the descent - from right to left, through one strand under two. It is necessary to track and eliminate an unpleasant feature by tightening the strands - the strands collected in the first punching slide relatively easily relative to each other, and leave their places during further punching, the fire “swells up” and becomes loose. On thick rope, a tight mark around the first punch helps to hold the strands in place. For the same reasons, it makes sense to start the second punching from the loosest strand. It could be the fourth one, which we hit last, or some other one, depending on the situation.

Sequentially we break through the strands counterclockwise and complete the punching with a “lock”.

The completed punching looks like this - all the strands come out through one, all are on the same level.

We beat the fire with a hammer and make the third punching, repeating the technology of the second.

After chopping, we cut off the strands and cage the place where they exit the cable with black electrical tape.

After installing the shrouds and tightening them under the working load, it makes sense to tightly wrap the entire fire with the same electrical tape or nylon cable.

This lesson requires some skill, the first lights usually come out unsightly, but each subsequent one is more beautiful than the previous one. So it makes sense to practice on scraps. When working with piles on a dense cable, the core wires are often affected, this must be monitored during punching and corrected. Well, the safety precautions should be at their best - eye protection from steel strands flying around, even if covered with marks, sharp piles and great efforts require attention and good hand protection.

fires

well

Alternative descriptions

Loop at end or middle of panel mounted cable

Roman Emperor

The method of forming a permanent loop on the cable with the interlacing of its threads

oogen literally eyes) - a marine ring at the end or in the middle of the net, with which accessories are worn on a sparrow (mast, crest, etc.),

(Border) is a bass repertoire song. Later he switched to the word "gon"

Thief in Slavic mythology

Sealing ring

Front ring

Ring (marine)

gorge about. old.

How to seduce a rope: instructions for beginners. How to tie the end of the cable with your own hands

and zap. small lamp. the tail is an animal, the stem is old. church error. and old. The word probably comes from the periphery, fire or overtaking. still. handcuffs, protein cells separated from fur; white bearded fur; In the tail there is also a tail, tails, tail intestinal dust of furry animals that women wear around their necks. Swan weapon, swan. Hunting. tail, fire or broken.

rut; in the temple, rule; wolf, diary; fox and horse, pipe; rabbit, flower; eyelids, fan, earth rabbit, arrow; on a bear, kutsyk; in cat breed, drummer, etc. on slags, crayfish, snakes, bugs; in cancer, neck; in fish, splash; cock, hair; peacock, turkey, bicycle. Root and living part of the tail, reptile; hair on it, swagger. Fire, sea. Solve with a loop; the loop. Ogong grotstag, a loop that puts them on top of the mast.

Fur roll with tails; so wear fur scarves, ferrets, sables. Pigeon - a pigeon, a pig whose tail has a bicycle. Fire, fire, fire

Loop in ship cable

Loop at the narrow end of the lasso

Loop at the end of the cable (navigation)

Loop at the end of the cable that is mounted on the bar

Loops by the sea

Rescue Solution

Hinge on grate (marine)

Horses in shape...

The method of forming a permanent loop on a cable with the interlacing of its threads is similar to splitting

(Border) is a bass repertoire song.

Later he switched to the word "gon"

How to braid a broken winch cable

Section: Articles

dutch fire

Dragged from http://www.off-travel.ru/site/[..]iew&id=113&Itemid=38

Looking at the sufferings of full wires of every kind and class with cables, I decided on this opus.

More precisely, suffering with the termination of cables. I can offer you a simple and reliable way to embed a cable into a loop, while you can embed into a loop and a hook and an earring and anything you like. All you need is a sturdy flat-blade screwdriver and... Your vehicle
All dimensions are approximate and are given for an 8 mm cable, which I have been using for more than one year, so I can bring them as a keepsake.

The end of the cable should be without kinks, even, preferably evenly cut off.

To chop it off evenly, it is enough to put it on an iron base (for example, if there is no rail, I use a 3 kg sledgehammer) and hit in the same place with the sharp end of the hammer, or the angle of its “butt” (I don’t know how called). Strokes 10-15 - the cable is cut off.

Now we divide the cable approximately in half in thickness.

“Approximately” - because one strand will be superfluous (There are either 7 or 9 strands). To divide, use a screwdriver.

IMMEDIATELY AND FOR ALWAYS: Use gloves or mittens when working with cables and be VERY careful and gentle when working with the ends of the cable - this wire will pierce any glove.

We dissolve the cable by about 60-80 cm (the longer, the more reliable the termination, although it only seems to be).

When dividing, you will have one more strand - rope. Since it does not obey the laws of a metal wire, we separate it into a separate "stream", but, for now, we do not cut it off. In PHOTO 5, it is clearly visible.

Now we proceed directly to the manufacture of the loop: two separated parts of the cable at a distance of 15-25 cm from the whole cable are parted and directed towards each other and folded.

Hooks and earrings need to be taken care of at this stage. We begin to wrap one part around the other. In this case, a solid cable is formed on a loop; for this, we make sure that the halves of the cable lie in each other's hollows left after “unwinding”.

In the next two photos

the WRONG position is indicated, the cable “does not fold”, respectively, return to the position indicated in photo 5 and start braiding in the other direction.

On the first turn, it should look like this:

Thus, slowly, we wrap the “shoulders” of the loop to the “base” with free “tails”.

When all!",

rested on a non-untwisted section of the cable, you need to try very hard and wrap the “tails” for another turn, for this you may have to make an effort and “stretch” the loop to the sides.

In this case, the TAILS MUST LIE IN THEIR PLACES.

So what should happen:
The cable, beautiful and shiny, ends with a no less beautiful loop, but at its base 30-40 cm of “tails” stick out IN DIFFERENT SIDES, that is, at an angle of 180 degrees.

Well, now the most interesting (in any case, I was struck by the simplicity of thought).
Remember, we needed your car???

It's even better if it's ALREADY planted in the shit to the very ... No, not to the most, we need its tow hook, but rather the ball of the towbar. Let's start. You put the loop on the towbar, insert a screwdriver into the loop (mounting, crowbar - depends on the thickness of the cable), take the screwdriver with both hands on both sides and pull your mobile out of the swamp.

At the same time, the screwdriver begins to screw into the cable, rotating around it - help it, and do not forget to pull out the released rope strand and hold the “tails”.

It's strange, but the "tails" are happily woven into the cable !!! True, for this they need to be corrected. Well, that's the whole trick ... When the "tails" run out, you need to carefully close them up - you can flatten the tube, and I just wrap it with electrical tape, because there is no load here.

Once in the fields, I just wrapped them with a rag - so that they would not puff and prick.

We take out the screwdriver and cut off, finally, the boring rope strand. ALL! the cable can be used for more ... many years.

Applicability: I was taught this method by truckers with their 30 mm cables (remember "wire, scrap").

Personally, I used it on 6mm, and on 8mm, and on 10mm cables, and on “vehicle cutters” - it works perfectly everywhere. With the 5th-7th weaving, it will take you 3-5 minutes for one loop, of which 2 minutes - unweave and then wrap with electrical tape.
Good luck!

Comments

Comments and continuation from the forum http://club.lr.ru/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=9591 .
The method is called "Dutch Fire".

Significantly reduces strength, it is impossible to put the thimble. The strands are simply “pulled out” from each other. The phenomenon is less noticeable, the larger the size of the fire itself. The strength is within the normal range, if for an 8mm cable the length of the plexus is somewhere around two meters, as far as I remember ...

Suitable only as a temporary measure. As soon as the screwdriver passes to the cut of the strands, they hit the fingers and unwind, as they lie on the surface of the cable. There is a high probability that they will stretch and slip out. Friction is not enough to either braid with wire or put locks. But as a temporary measure, it is better (easier, and the cable does not deteriorate) to use 2 or 3 locks, which are sold in the same place as the cable.

The normal method (with strand punching), unfortunately, is much more laborious ...

Koush is a good thing.

True, a couple of times the jackla bolt in the thimble pinched, they were lured to pull it out. Since then, all extension cables have been braided according to the Dutch Fire system, secured with screw clamps. In principle, it holds very well, at least the 9500 winch does not parse them.

If the thimble is correct, the cable is more likely to break.

It's just that the thimbles are for steel and synthetic cables, they differ in the thickness of the back. Those that are very thick for steel ones cannot be bent. When buying, you need to look, sellers often do not know.

If two screw locks - horseradish will sort it out.

If three - rather the cable will break.

Simple Fire Rope

Copy-paste from http://m-uzel.ru/article/ogon/[..]na_ctalnom_troce.htm

Performance.

Before proceeding with the manufacture of the fire, it is necessary to impose a temporary but strong brand at some distance from the end of the cable, to fix the ends of the strands with stamps; and then unravel the end of the cable into strands.

After that, the cable is laid in the form of a loop of the desired size and the running strands are punched.

There are several methods for first and subsequent piercing, but only the most common method is described below.

It is convenient to perform the first punching if the fire is facing the worker with its curved part, and the running strands are located on the right.

The first running strand is drawn into the cable from right to left, against the descent of the cable, under three root strands. Second and third running; strands break through, respectively, under two and one strands (Fig. 3.a, strands 1, 2, 3).

When the punching of the first three strands is completed, the fire must be turned over, after which the punching of the fourth and fifth running strands is performed. The fourth strand breaks under two, and the fifth - under one strand of the cable (Fig. 3.b, strands 4 and 5).

Then it is necessary to turn the fire over again, giving it its original position, and punch the sixth running strand into the cable.

It is inserted under one strand of the cable in the direction of its descent (Fig. 3.c, strand 6). This completes the first punch.

During subsequent punching, each running strand is inserted into the cable from right to left according to the rule “through one strand under two” (Fig.

3.d). At the end of each punching, the strands must be wrapped, which is done, depending on the thickness of the cable, manually or with the help of a vice or hoist.

To gradually reduce the thickness of the cable at the point of punching, it is recommended to punch three strands four times, and the rest only three.

The ends of the running strands are cut off directly at the cable itself, after which the cable is caged with tinned wire.

A finished fire on a steel cable is shown in fig.

Application. A simple fire is made on mooring and towing cables, on steel slings, etc.

Comments

To make it convenient to do, a special chalk-steel tube is made on one side of the handle and on the other the tube is pointed. Having hooked the cable core with the sharp end of the tube, the passage core is inserted into the tube and then the tube is simply pulled out.

Imagine a steel tube with a diameter of approx. 10 mm and a length of 200, which at an angle of 15 degrees was cut down with a file from one end and a handle was attached to the other end. With a sharp end, you pry off a strand of a braided cable, with the notch of the sawn tube up, you put the woven strand into the notch, and so on in the period until you get bored. A similar, but more convenient and durable industrial tool is called a pile.
If you have never woven a steel cable, I highly recommend that you first practice on a thin one (3-5mm).

Take 8-10 later.

Related topics
Recommendations
Do not use steel rope for towing. At the slightest jerk, there is a risk of breaking the cable, or, worse, tearing out the towing eyes. Use the "PAT" jerk rope (see Breaking Force, second photo from top).

average score: +2.67 respondents: 3

How to knit knots. 12 reliable knots for survival.

Bowline - gazebo knot.

Bowline . (photo: brig-club.ru)

People not familiar with nautical terminology may think that the name "arbor knot" comes from the verb "to chat" or from the noun "arbor".

In the maritime language, the name of this node comes from the "gazebo", but not from the usual, but from the marine arbor, which is a small wooden board - a platform that serves to lift a person onto the mast or lower it overboard during painting or other work.

This board with the help of cables is attached to the lifting cable with a special knot, which is called the gazebo knot. Its second name is bowline. It comes from the English term "bowline", denoting tackle, which is used to pull the windward leech of the lower straight sail. This tackle is knitted to the leech of the sail with a bowline knot, or simply a bowline.

This is one of the oldest and most amazing knots ever invented by man. Archaeologists testify that the gazebo was known to the ancient Egyptians and Phoenicians for 3000 years BC.

The arbor knot, despite its amazing compactness, simultaneously contains elements of a simple knot, half-bayonet, weaving and straight knots. The elements of all these nodes in a certain combination give the gazebo node the right to be called universal. It is surprisingly easy to knit, even with strong traction it never tightens "tightly", does not spoil the cable, never slides along the cable, does not untie itself and is easily untied when needed.

The main purpose of the gazebo knot is to tie a person with a cable under the armpits as a means of insurance when climbing to a height, lowering overboard or in a smoky room during a fire on board a ship. You can insert a gazebo into the non-tightening loop of this knot.

The easiest knitting method. Always in life. the ability to quickly tie a bow knot around your waist can come in handy.

You need to be able to do this with one hand with one continuous movement of the brush, in the dark, in 2 - 3 seconds. It's not hard to learn this at all.

Take the root end of the cable in your left hand, with your right hand encircle the running end behind you around your waist.

Take the running end in your right hand and, stepping back about 10 centimeters from its end, hold it in your fist. Take the root end in the left hand and stretch the left hand forward. Now, having the root end of the cable slightly taut, with the right brush with the running end clamped in it, go around the root end of the cable from top to bottom towards you and up away from you.

Try to make such a movement with the brush so that it does not completely fall into the loop. Next, wrap the running end around the stretched root end to the left, intercept it with the thumb and forefinger of the right hand.

Pulling the right hand out of the loop, simultaneously push the running end into the small loop. Holding the running end with the right hand, pull the root end with the tape. After doing this several times in a row, you will learn how to tie a bow knot on yourself, in the dark or with your eyes closed. Imagine the following situation: you find yourself over the side of the ship in the water, they throw you a line from the deck, along which you cannot climb up, because it is slippery. By tying a harness knot around your waist and moving the resulting armpit loop, you can ensure that you are safely pulled out of the water onto the deck.

This magnificent knot has saved the lives of sailors more than once. To untie the gazebo knot, it is enough to slightly move the loop of the running end along the weakened root of the cable.

Portuguese bowline.

Portuguese bowline. (photo: kakimenno.ru)

Works just like a regular bowline.

It is used in cases where it is necessary to tie two loops at one end at once. For example, lifting an injured person. Then the victim's legs are threaded into loops, and a half-bayonet is knitted around the chest under the armpits with the root end. then the person will not fall out anywhere, even if he is unconscious.

Knot "eight".

"Eight" .

This knot is considered a classic. It forms the basis of a dozen other, more complex nodes for various purposes. In the form in which it is shown here, this knot in maritime affairs serves as an excellent stopper at the end of the cable so that the latter does not splash out of the block pulley. Unlike a simple knot, even with strong traction, it does not spoil the cable and can always be easily untied. To tie the figure eight, it is necessary to encircle the running end of the cable around the main one and then pass it into the loop formed, but not immediately, as in a simple knot, but first winding it for yourself.

This knot can be applied to the rope handles of a wooden pail or bucket if the rope passes through the two holes on the protruding ends of the wooden staves. In this case, after threading the rope through both holes, at its ends, on the outer sides, the rivets are tied in a figure-eight. With two figure eights, you can securely attach the rope to the children's sled. To prevent the hand from slipping off the end of the dog leash, we advise you to tie a figure eight. In addition, it serves well for attaching strings to the tuning pegs of violins, guitars, mandolins, balalaikas and other musical instruments.

The figure-eight knot is very easy to knit and can be done with just one hand.

1. Perform the first stick.
2. Then pass the running end under the root.
3. Pass it through the first peg and tighten the knot.

Dagger Knot.

Knot for tying two cables or ropes.

It is considered one of the best knots for tying two large diameter cables. It is not very complicated in its scheme and is quite compact when tightened. It is most convenient to tie it if you first lay the running end of the cable in the form of a figure of the number 8 on top of the main one.

After that, thread the elongated running end of the second cable into loops, pass it under the middle intersection of the figure-eight and bring it out over the second intersection of the first cable. Next, the running end of the second cable must be passed under the root end of the first cable and inserted into the figure-eight loop, as the arrow indicates. When the knot is tightened, the two running ends of both cables stick out in different directions. The dagger knot is easy to untie if one of the extreme loops is loosened.

How to knit a dagger knot.

(photo: poxod.ru)

Straight knot.

Archaeological finds indicate that the Egyptians used it about three thousand years before our era. The ancient Greeks and Romans called it Nodus Hercules - the Hercules or Hercules knot, because the mythical hero Hercules tied the front paws of the skin of the lion he had killed on his chest.

The Romans used the straight knot to stitch wounds and heal broken bones. It consists of two half-knots, sequentially tied one on top of the other in different directions.

This is the usual easiest way to knit it. Sailors, who have been using this knot since ancient times to tie cables, use a different knitting method. Weavers who use a straight knot to bind broken threads of yarn tie it in their own way, in a special, convenient way for them.

With heavy loads on the tied cables, as well as when the cables get wet, the straight knot is strongly tightened.

How can a straight (reef) knot be untied, which is so tightened that it cannot be untied and will have to be cut. A straight knot, even wet and tightly tightened, is untied very simply, in 1-2 seconds.

How to knit a straight knot.

Take ends A and B in your left hand, and ends C and D in your right hand.

Pull them strongly in different directions and tighten the knot as tight as possible. After that, take the root end A in your left hand (so that it does not slip out of the hand, make a couple of hoses around the palm). Take the running end B in your right hand (you can also wrap it around your palm.). Pull the ends sharply and strongly in different directions. Without releasing end A from your left hand, hold the rest of the knot in your fist with your right hand, holding it with your thumb and forefinger.

Pull root end A to the left side - the knot is untied. The whole secret lies in the fact that when the ends of A and B are jerked in different directions, the straight knot turns into two half-bayonets and completely loses all its properties. It is also easily untied if you take the root end D in your right hand and pull the running end B strongly to the left.

Only in this case, the end of G must then be pulled to the right, and the rest of the knot (half bayonets) to the left. When untying a straight knot in this way, remember that if you pulled the running end to the right, pull the root to the left and vice versa.

When untying a straight knot, one should not forget that with what force it was tightened, it is necessary to pull one of its running ends with the same force.

Fishing bayonet, anchor knot.

A very reliable node.
One of the most critical uses of a knot in maritime affairs is tying an anchor rope to an anchor.

For five thousand years of the existence of shipping, people for this purpose could not come up with a more reliable knot than this one. Proven by centuries of experience in maritime practice, this knot is recognized by sailors of all countries as the most reliable for attaching a rope to an eye or to an anchor bracket. The fishing bayonet (or anchor knot) is somewhat similar to a simple bayonet with a hose.

How to braid a steel cable - a process diagram that is understandable to everyone

It differs from it in that the first of the two half-bayonets passes additionally inside the hose that wraps around the object. When using this knot for anchoring, it is always necessary to grab the running end with a scrum to the root.

In this case, even with a very strong pull, the fishing bayonet does not tighten and holds securely. It is fashionable to safely use it in all cases when working with cables, when they are subject to strong traction.

Tightening choke.

This knot is also called the scaffold or "hanging" knot.

But despite this, it also finds other uses in maritime affairs. It is used for temporary fastening of a cable for objects floating in the water or for throwing and fastening a cable for any object on the shore. This knot has an advantage even over such a good knot as a half-bayonet garrote, in that the running end of the cable cannot slip out of the loop, and therefore a tightening garrote is considered more reliable.

On sailboats, this knot was used to fasten the root ends of the mars-sheets and mars-git and other gear in cases where it was necessary to have these ends ready for recoil. To tie this knot, the cable is laid in the form of two loops of the same size.

Both loops are surrounded several times with the running end of the cable, after which this end is passed into the loop facing the root of the cable, and, pulling out the extreme loop, they are clamped in it. A tightening noose can always be easily untied by pulling on the root of the cable. This gloomy knot can be used well in maritime affairs in two ways. Firstly, according to the scheme of its knitting, it is convenient to store the cable in the form of a compact bay.

By making this knot without a loop at the running end of the throwing end, you will get excellent heaviness. If you find it not heavy enough, dip it in water before use.

Flat knot.

It has long been considered one of the most reliable knots for tying cables of different thicknesses.

They even tied anchor hemp ropes and mooring lines. Having eight weaves, the flat knot never tightens too much, does not creep and does not spoil the cable, since it does not have sharp bends, and the load on the cables is evenly distributed over the knot. After removing the load on the cable, this knot is easy to untie.

The principle of a flat knot lies in its shape: it is really flat, and this makes it possible to choose the cables connected by it on the drums of capstans and windlasses, on the welps of which its shape does not interfere with the even overlap of subsequent hoses.

In marine practice, there are two options for knitting this knot: a loose knot with tacking of its free running ends to the root or half-bayonets at their ends and without such a tack when the knot is tightened. A flat knot tied in the first way (in this form it is called a Josephine knot) on two cables of different thicknesses almost does not change its shape even with very high traction and is easily untied when the load is removed.

The second knitting method is used for tying thinner than anchor ropes and mooring lines, cables, with the same or almost the same thickness. At the same time, it is recommended to first tighten the tied flat knot with your hands so that it does not twist with a sharp pull. After that, when a load is given to the connected cable, the knot crawls and twists for some time, but, having stopped, it holds firmly. It is untied without much effort by shifting the loops covering the root ends.

As already mentioned, a flat knot has eight intersections of cables and, it would seem that it can be tied in different ways, there are 256 different options for tying it. But practice shows that not every knot from this number, tied according to the principle of a flat knot (alternating intersection of opposite ends from under and over), will hold securely. Ninety percent of them are unreliable, and some are even dangerous for tying cables designed for strong traction. Its principle depends on changing the sequence of intersection of the connected cables in a flat knot, and it is enough to slightly change this order, as the knot receives other negative qualities.

Before putting this knot into practice for any important business, you must first remember exactly its scheme and tie the cables exactly along it without any, even the most insignificant deviations. Only in this case, the flat knot will serve you faithfully and will not let you down.

This marine knot is indispensable for tying two cables (even steel ones, on which a significant effort will be applied, for example, when pulling a heavy truck stuck in mud on half a wheel with a tractor).

Bag knot.

(photo: hermes-sz.com)

In the fleets of different countries, sailors kept their personal belongings in different ways - in bags, lockers and suitcases.

In the Russian Imperial Navy, large and small suitcases made of gray canvas were used to store the personal belongings of sailors. To carry the bags, the sailors attached a piece of shtet to them, with which they tied them with a bag knot.

Climbing knot - riding loop.

It is used for attachment points on the base rope and for attachment in the middle participant's bundle, for which he received his second common name.

For tying a rope to the main and intermediate anchorages, for temporary isolation of a defective (broken) piece of a working rope.

The knot is notable for the fact that it is easy, in comparison with the eight, to be untied and equally well tightened in both directions. When jerking from one side, it does not slide along the rope.

Amphora node.

This knot is not simple, but with its help you can make an excellent rope handle for carrying a bottle, a jug, and in general any vessel with a small protrusion on the neck.

Barrel knot.

This knot is used when there is no special sling or device for lifting full and open drums in a vertical position.

On the middle part of the cable with which they intend to lift the barrel, a half-knot is knitted. The half-loops of the knot are spread apart and cover the middle part of the barrel with them. The lower part of the loop runs along the center of the bottom of the barrel, the free ends of the cable are connected with a straight knot, and if the cable is already fixed at one end, then with a gazebo.

How to tie a tow rope

A reliable tow rope is one of the most needed items in the trunk of an entire car. On the shelves of modern auto parts stores, you can find a lot of types of cables: nylon, polypropylene, iron, flat, braided, ropes.

Instruction

1. Traditionally, motorists who purchase towing cables prefer cables with carabiners and metal hooks.

This simplifies the application, and, say, in frost or rain, there is no need to knit knots.

2. When towing, the cable is hooked obliquely, from the left eye of the towing vehicle to the right eye of the towed vehicle. This helps reduce the force of the jerks and allows the co-driver to have a better view of the road behind the towing vehicle. However, some motorists reasonably believe that the place where the carabiner is connected to the cable reduces its safety.

3. In order to tie the tow rope to the car, several tried-and-tested knots are used, say, a tow knot and a bowline (or a gazebo).

4. Towing knot Throw the end of the cable onto the hook of the towing machine from left to right with a loop so that the free right end of the cable extends from below from under the tensioned cable to the left side. Make a primitive loop on the free left end and overlap it on the hook, pull the free end on the right side out of under a tight rope.

Fire with a thimble on a steel cable

Now make a primitive loop from the free end of the cable on the right and loop it over the hook again. Secure the free end with an ordinary knot.

5. Bowline or gazebo knot Take one end of the cable in your hand, bend it, twist it into a loop. Bend this loop to the cable and pull another loop through it (as in crochet). This loop is movable. Now insert the remaining end of the cable into this loop, pull it to the required loop size and put it on the tow hook.

This knot is strong and excellently untied after towing.

Note!
Not all cables, as they say, are identically suitable. It would seem that the strongest iron cable has significant drawbacks. It rusts, and additional precautions must be taken when applying it. A rebounded iron cable is much more likely to break a person's bones. The rules of the road also did not ignore the sore subject of towing a car. In accordance with them, the length of the towing cable must be at least 4 m, and the cable itself must be marked with red flags.

Unfortunately, even the strongest steel cable can break. As a result, there is a problem of connecting two parts of a metal product, and therefore it is necessary to create a loop at its end. As a rule, you can braid the end of the cable yourself, even if it breaks away from home.

Main functions

Steel cable - the main bearing element of load-lifting mechanisms. It is used in all industries, ranging from agriculture, engineering, construction, shipbuilding, to the oil refining and coal industries. According to the thickness and endurance, power and possible carrying capacity, the steel cable is divided into several types. The choice depends on the goal and the need to perform certain tasks. The main component of product selection is the ability to withstand a certain mass of cargo.

The main area of ​​use of steel edges is their use as traction mechanisms. The cable is used for drilling rigs in stretching for all objects that require a certain fastening. In addition, steel ropes are necessary for the movement of goods. They are also needed for lifting mechanisms for freight and passenger elevators.

Reinforcing steel rope is used for reinforcing reinforced concrete products. In addition, the cable is used as load-bearing and auxiliary elements of various structures. Its use provides reliability, which is achieved due to the main characteristics of the element that can withstand any load. A cable is especially needed in construction, when there is a need to supply reinforced concrete slabs to the desired height.

Rope slings are made from metric steel ropes - a special type of steel cable, which differs from all main types in its special flexibility, strength and ability, due to flexibility, to grab the load for suspension by the hook in order to deliver the load to its destination. Steel slings are used during unloading and loading, in the transportation of the heaviest, bulky goods, which have loops, brackets, eyes for this purpose, in order to carry out a strong reliable grip.

Steel element design

Due to the interlacing, the cable has the ability to stretch, thereby allowing you to transport cargo of various masses. There is a core in the middle of the braided rope strands. Outside, the metal steel rope is coated with a special zinc or aluminum alloy. This provides the product with protection against corrosion. The core in the center of the rope performs the main role of supporting all the braided strands, preventing them from falling through, facilitating the pressure resistance from the braided strands during loading, thereby preventing transverse deformation of the element. For the manufacture of steel products, different materials are used:

• organic;
• natural;
• synthetic.

Organic material used in the manufacture of cable cores:

• hemp;
• sisal;
• beckoned;
• cotton fabric.

All these are the materials due to which the round shape of the rope is formed. Thanks to special impregnation, cannon grease, petroleum jelly and rope ointment, friction between the strands is reduced.

The mineral material is asbestos. Its main task is to allow the product to be used at high temperatures.

Lubricant, penetrating between the strands, protects the product from corrosion. The outer layer of the steel cable is made of thick wire. In this connection, the steel rope is the connecting part of the product. This is the most suitable option for the use of wire rope in chemical conditions. Zinc - the outer layer of the wire, which protects the product from rusting.

There are three types of zinc coated steel cable:

• LS - a rope for working with a light load;
• SS - cable for medium conditions;
• ZhS - a rope that is designed for use in more severe conditions, for example, in water.

In the production of cables, strands of wire are used. At the same time, for the manufacture of each type of product, a wire of a certain type of grade is used: I, II and B. The highest quality wire with increased strength is grade B wire.

Varieties

Depending on how much wire is used in the rope, steel ropes have several flexibility options. The most flexible of them have 42 wires, the flexible ones already consist of 72 pieces, that is, 12 in each coil around the central core. And the high-flex cable already has coils of very thin 24 wires per strand, for a total of 144 thin wires around a central steel core.

Construction types

There are three types of steel cable construction:

• Single rope. The design of this type differs from the others in that it consists of only one strand, where all the wires around the central core have the same diameter, are twisted in several or in one layer in a spiral around the core.
• Double rope. This design consists of a double lay, one or two layers of wire in strands, wrapped around a central metal core.
• Ropes with a three-strand construction, when three-strand ropes are twisted into one element. This type of steel rope components is also called strands. It consists of two or three strands of wire with the same or different diameters.

Terms of Use

First of all, it is worth warning everyone who buys a cable for work. It is quite thin, so if you braid the cable with your own hands incorrectly, it will unwind. There are several reasons for this.

First of all, this is possible due to a poor-quality product. This usually applies to very thin elements. In addition, it should be remembered that the thinner the diameter of the wire in the strands, the more often the cable breaks. The product is also often susceptible to corrosion. Therefore, it is better to buy a cable with an anti-corrosion coating. To date, the most resistant to corrosion are products made of stainless or galvanized wire. But a cable without such a coating quickly becomes covered with a corrosive coating, quickly deteriorates and can break at the most inopportune moment.

The most reliable in operation is a galvanized steel cable, made using a specific technique for interlacing steel wires of different diameters. At the same time, the core located in the center has an increased resistance to various influences, since it is coated with a special lubricant and impregnation, which has an anti-rotten property.

The main task in the care of a steel product during its use is the preservation of its structure and shape, which was created at the time of manufacture. This means that such a rope should only be stored in the drum. In cases of long-term storage, the entire surface of the steel rope must be carefully treated with a special lubricant. For these purposes, a special lubricant or film is used:

• "Torsiol-55";
• "Torsiol-35";
• BOZ-1.

The main condition during the application of the lubricant is to clean the entire surface of the cable from contamination, remove dirt, and clean its parts damaged by corrosion. Places of damage must be covered with a special anti-corrosion agent. And only after that, using a special brush, treat the entire surface of the product with a lubricant.

Weaving

How to braid a rope? This question always arises when it is torn. In fact, all strands of wire, woven into a single product with a strong core, have high strength. But there are times when even the strongest cable can break. The main thing is that a gap or a place of damage to the integrity of the element is detected in time. To do this, it is necessary not to neglect the extra check, which should always be carried out before starting any work.

To prevent the cable from unwinding, it is necessary to braid it with a loop in places of a possible break. And bite off the untwisted sections with wire cutters. This is necessary so that the end at the place where the cable is woven into a loop is even, all the wires converge and do not have different lengths.

How to braid a cable if you have never encountered such a problem?

In order to properly braid a steel product, you need an I-beam. Through it, as a rule, the ends of the product are bent. Excess parts are cut off or cut off with a cutting wheel. If there is an angle grinder, the remnants of the cut-off part from the cable must be disposed of.

All work is carried out in the presence of special clothing. Mittens and goggles will protect against small wires getting into the eyes and reduce the likelihood of splinters from the cut off residues.

Step-by-step instruction

As a rule, sooner or later any cable unwinds. First you need to unwind the cut-off sections of the cable at a distance of 70-80 centimeters from the end of the product. Then the untwisted parts should be divided into two parts. Next, you need to braid one part of the piece for one or two turns, leaving the ends free. After that you need a mount. With its help, it is necessary to weave two more turns, weaving the remaining strands. It should be a strand. True, the ends after that will stick out.

And yet, how to properly braid the cable if the ends are uneven? In fact, everything is correct. After weaving the strands into a loop, you will always get protruding ends.

To complete the connection, you need to wind one end onto two woven branches and hide it, and wrap the other end of the cable on the reverse side. Better yet, take the existing three parts and weave them together, according to the pigtail principle, and wrap the resulting pigtail with the third strand, weave a loop here and wrap it around the pigtail again.

The whole procedure is repeated several times until the free ends run out. In this case, each rod must be directed towards the next inside the pigtail, with the establishment of their ends.

Often beginners are faced with the problem of how to braid a cable. And for them, it's a really dangerous job. Therefore, in order to avoid injury and give the braid greater reliability, the braided pigtail must be fixed in several places using special clamps. The role of the clamp can be performed by ordinary pieces of steel wire. They are wound in a certain area at the place of interlacing of the strands with the help of pliers, bending the strands of wires inward.

Safety during work

To avoid injury, the pigtail must be wrapped with electrical tape.

To get a strong connection after weaving, it is necessary to distribute the strands evenly. This will allow in the future to equally disperse the load throughout the product during operation.

We figured out how to braid the cable into a loop. Thus, this issue has been sorted out. But how to braid fire on a cable? To do this, you must first understand what fire is and the principle of its weaving.

Basics and features of the device

Before proceeding with the manufacture of fire, you need to fix the ends of the product with a brand, after which the rest of the end should be dissolved into strands. The next step is to lay out the untwisted part of the cable with a loop of the required size and punch through the running gear of the strands. There are many methods to weave fire on a wire.

It is important to make the first punching correctly if the fire with the curved side is turned to the working part, and the running parts of the cable strands are located on the right. In this case, you need to take the first running strand, draw it into the cable against the descent in the direction from right to left under the 3 main strands. The second and third strands break through under two and into one, respectively.

When the punching of the first three strands is completed, the fire must be turned over so that it is possible to punch the fourth and fifth running gear of the strands. And so to the end of the rope. The remaining ends of the running strands need to be chopped off, and the product itself should be caged with wire.

Finally

A cable is a complex wire structure that carries a lot of responsibility. Therefore, the quality of the product must be at the highest level, and for this you need to know how to weave a steel cable correctly, how to properly braid it into a loop. And even if the work is done for the first time, it is still necessary to do everything efficiently, firmly and reliably. To do this, even a beginner must know and understand the basic nuances of weaving a cable. It is important to remember that the quality of operation of the product and, of course, your own safety depend on the work performed.

We have sorted out tips for a beginner on how to braid a cable.