Alpine skiing, clothes, equipment, rules of behavior on the slope, safety, terms, alphabet. Everything you need to know about skiing before you go to the shop or rental shop

ski geometry- these are the parameters of the width of the toe-waist-heel skis in mm. Sometimes this group includes the radius or depth of the sidecut. By the width of the waist, you can determine the main purpose of the modern skis: Waist less than 68mm - skis designed mainly for prepared tracks, waist from 70 to 80 mm - universal models, waist over 80 mm - off-piste skiing. The given values ​​are not constant.
In order to start picking up equipment, you need to decide on the style of riding, that is, how and where a person is going to ride. There are many different styles and directions. The main ones are:
Sports. Specialized models for sports disciplines: slalom, giant, super giant, downhill.
Freeride. The type of skiing is predominantly "off-piste" on a wide variety of terrain, including virgin soil, mounds, jumping from rocks and boosts.
Universal. A characteristic that indicates the use of the model, both on prepared slopes and in broken snow and virgin lands.
Freestyle "new school". Includes jumping, moving backwards, various exercises on the walls of the pipe and in the air, mogul. An offshoot is jibbing (riding on all kinds of railings) and freestyle backcountry (skiing with the same elements performed on natural terrain, usually in virgin soil).
Ski tour. A type of skiing holiday that involves skiing in mountains that are not equipped with ski lifts and snow groomers, when the ascent is carried out on skis on foot. Special boots and bindings are used.
Skicross. Relatively new ski discipline. On a specially prepared track with drops, springboards, turns, etc., several participants (usually four) start at once with the task of coming to the finish line first.
If a person is just starting to ride, and does not know which style suits him best, then his choice should be on models with a universal ski geometry.

What is "classic" and "carving"

Carving is a technique for controlling skis in a turn, based on guiding both skis on the edge in all phases of the turn. The first carving skis were presented by manufacturers as an option for those skiers who wanted to master carved turns, so many experienced skiers did not consider it necessary to switch to them. They rode the classics. Classics are skis without pronounced geometry (85-65-75). Compared to karvas (about 110-65-97) they were narrower.
Time has passed, carving has been refined and continues to be refined now. The toe and heel of the ski become even wider, due to this, the turning radius decreases. Skis have become smaller and are no longer selected taller, but taller or shorter. Nowadays it is no longer a question whether to ride on carves, the question is on which ones.

How to choose skis

If you are a beginner and want to learn how to ski more easily: skiing should be selected a little lower than the height by 10-15 cm (if the skier's weight exceeds 100 kg, then in height) and have not high rigidity. Than the length skis higher than the recommendations, it will be more difficult to control at low speeds, but at high speed it will be easier to control them. If length skiing below the recommendations, then at speed they become very "fidgety" and difficult to control. Than stiffness skiing higher, the harder it is to bend when entering a turn, but on hard snow (or on ice) it will hold the arc more clearly and not slip.
If you are no longer a beginner and know which style of riding suits you best, then when choosing a size skiing, you need to consult with the seller. Length skiing for the same person can differ significantly depending on the purpose of the ski. For freeriding - longer, for slalom - shorter. Beginners - shorter, experienced - longer, etc.

How to choose ski boots

Main differences ski boots these are stiffness (the stiffness index for different manufacturers may vary), pad width, clip material, the presence of thermoforming and various "bells and whistles" such as walking-skating switches, stiffness adjustment, etc. Concerning ski boots, here the rule applies, the more expensive does not mean better. Expensive ski boots these are, as a rule, sports models designed for several descents, and not for riding 8-10 hours a day. They have a very high rigidity (120 and above) and thanks to this the skier can clearly control the skis. Beginner skiers fit "soft" ski boots with stiffness up to 70 (if the skier's weight is above 100 kg, then the stiffness must be at least 60). In order to choose comfortable ski boots It is necessary to try on several models and, according to the sensations, draw a conclusion in which ones you feel most comfortable. The shoe should sit very tight on the leg. If you have chosen a boot in which the foot does not fit tightly, then in the future the foot in the boot will simply hang out, since the inner material tends to squash when skating. So after the seller gives you another model to try on, you don’t have to immediately say what is pressing for you.

After you have put on the boot, you must properly fasten all the clips, starting from the bottom. After all the clips are fastened, you should do a few lower leg bends forward (as if you were squatting). As a rule, the heel should go back, thereby making room for the toes. Only after that you can understand whether the shoe is the right size for you or not. After that, you need to decide if it is big for you. For this standing in ski boots You need to stand up a little on your toes (on tiptoe), if the heel starts to come off the sole of the boot, it means that it is too big for you and does not fit (allowable heel separation is 0.5 cm). After that, you should stand (not sit) in ski boots about 15-20 minutes, and if possible, then take it home and walk around for about an hour. If, after all that has been done, you don’t press or press anywhere, then these are your boots and you won’t have problems with them on the slope. If there is even the slightest discomfort or squeezing, then take it off and start measuring another model. If, having measured all the models in the store, you could not find the ideal option for you, then this is not a problem. There are more than 15 different companies - manufacturers that specialize in the production of ski boots and each of them has a different last for different types of feet. Perhaps you need to try on shoes that are not sold in this store. After all ski boots- this is the most important item of inventory, unlike skis and bindings, you will not want to change the right boots for many years.

How to choose ski bindings

Today, almost all companies produce exclusively high-quality and safe fasteners. They differ from each other in design, design, various adjustments and the rigidity of the release (measured in DIN). In order to choose bindings and correctly set the stiffness on them for your weight, you can use the formula: the skier's weight is divided by ten and one is subtracted. In the future, with an increase in technique and level of skating, you can increase the rigidity.

How to choose ski poles

Selection ski poles can be done in several ways:
1. Taken stick, turns over so that its tip is in your hands, and the handle itself is on the floor (vertically). Then you need to take your hand under the ring. If the angle at the elbow is straight (about 90 degrees), then it suits you in height.
2. You can simply subtract 50 cm from your height, this will be approximately the desired length of the stick. For example, if the height is 175 cm - 50 cm, then a stick 125 cm long is suitable for you.
The difference between women's and men's clothing.
Women's skis are designed based on the fact that women are lighter and less aggressive in skiing style. Given the structure of the female body for a more balanced stance, the mount is moved slightly forward during installation. The prefix L in the name of the model often means that these are models for ladies. Women's boot models are boots that take into account the features of the female foot: reduced heel height due to a wider and lower calf, higher instep, narrower foot and heel, lowered ankle axis. Usually with improved thermal insulation.

1. What must you buy before your first trip to the mountains? How to choose the right one?
- For the first trips to the mountains, it is not necessary to purchase a complete ski kit - at any rental you can take skis of any quality and manufacturer. But it is highly desirable to purchase boots that are well suited for you: the comfort of a skier is primarily determined by the convenience of his legs. It is necessary to choose ski shoes very carefully, sparing no time and effort to try them on. It is advisable to walk in each pair of shoes you try on for at least 10 minutes to understand whether they fit or not. It is worth remembering that the most expensive shoes are not necessarily the best. There are no "bad" and "good" companies, there are shoes that are best suited to a particular person. For the best choice of boots, we recommend that you contact specialized sports / ski shops, where they will help you find the best option.

A helmet, special ski socks and a mask are not a luxury or a fad, but essential items for a holiday in the mountains. The helmet should be light, comfortable and perfect for you. The distance between the eyebrows and the edge of the helmet (while the helmet must be properly dressed and fastened) should not exceed two fingers folded together. The helmet should not press anywhere. Think about whether you will wear a balaclava, and if so, it's better to bring it to try on. The inner "upholstery" of the helmet is crumpled over time, so that when trying on the helmet should not move back and forth. The helmet must have good ventilation and audibility. Don't forget to take your ski mask (if you have one) to try on and try it on with your helmet.
To correctly determine the length of the ski pole you need, you need to turn it upside down and take it so that the fist is pressed against the ring. If the arm formed a right angle with respect to the body when the elbow was bent, the choice is correct, in any other case, a different length of the stick is needed. The shape of the handle should be comfortable for your hand. The weight, flexibility and configuration of the poles only matter to experienced skiers and athletes.
A very important piece of equipment is goggles or a ski mask. Ordinary sunglasses may not be suitable for skiing, in the mountains it is very important to protect your eyes from wind, snow, increased ultraviolet at altitude and light reflection from snow. The optimal filter color is orange or dark yellow - this filter protects from the sun and provides good contrast visibility in foggy weather or on a cloudy day, when it is difficult to see the unevenness on the slope. Do not forget about accessories: ski gloves or mittens are a must, it is advisable to always have two pairs with you. Be sure to take sunscreen and lipstick with a high SPF with you, or buy all this on the spot - as a rule, they are sold in convenient packaging at any rental point or supermarket.

2. How to choose ski boots?
Once you've got your boots on (it's not easy the first time), get into a proper stance (or just bend your knees), listen to how you feel, and let your feet get used to it. If you are comfortable, the boots fit snugly and evenly around the foot, but there are no places where the pressure is too strong - everything is fine, we move on. In suitable boots, you can move your toes, but the foot should not have excessive freedom: move back and forth, sideways, or come off the insole too much. Do not expect to find “your” pair from the first fitting - all people are different, and their legs are also different. All manufacturers make shoes not only of different stiffness, but also with different shoe widths. Get ready to try on more than one pair of boots to feel how they differ and in which you can painlessly spend several hours on the slope in a row. Boots must be tried on with special ski socks (do not spare money on them, thinking that you can ski in ordinary sports socks - this is not so).

For women and children, there are special models of boots that take into account their anatomical features and are designed for different levels of training. Many modern models of boots involve thermoforming - a special fit to the anatomical features of a particular person. Specially fitted insoles make riding much more comfortable, they can be made in specialized stores.

3. How to choose the right ski clothing?
Almost most of the comfort during and after riding is provided by the right clothing. It must be multi-layered and provide maximum comfort when skiing in all weather conditions, protect from cold and wind and well remove moisture. Optimally, a rider's clothing should have at least 3 layers. Thermal underwear, fleece (jacket, turtleneck or sweater) and a protective layer - trousers and a jacket or overalls.
There is a large selection of so-called "mountain-beach" clothing - undoubtedly beautiful, but well suited for relaxing in a sun lounger, and not for intensive skiing. Many fashion brands make such clothes, and if you plan to sunbathe more than ride, then you can not change your favorite brand. Among experienced skiers who spend a lot of time on the slopes, time-tested specialist brands are popular. This group includes Phoenix, Goldwin, Descente, Kujs, Colmar, Spyder and some others. Slightly less money to spend on clothes Halti(official supplier of the organizers of the World Cup), Salomon, Volkl and Rossignol, while in terms of performance it will not be inferior to more expensive brands. If price is critical, look to "sportswear in general" brands such as Columbia and other less expensive brands.

To buy both beautiful and functional clothes, you need to look not only at its cost and appearance, but also at performance. It has long been a rule of good form for manufacturers to indicate the parameters of the fabric: water resistance (changes in millimeters of the water column held by the fabric), and vapor permeability (in grams of liquid that one square meter of fabric can pass per day). The general rule when choosing a model is this: for ordinary skiers who do not spend too much time on the slopes, a membrane with a water resistance of 5000 mm and a vapor permeability of 5000 g/sq.m/24h is sufficient. Of course, the higher these figures, the higher the price of the item. But the more chances that you will be comfortable in the snow and in the rain. No less important is the insulation - it should be thin and light. When choosing, special attention should be paid to the presence and convenience of additional details and their ergonomics - pockets and pockets, a functional hood, cuffs that are pleasant to the touch, etc. Good modern jackets have many useful details, for example, a special pocket for a ski pass, a "skirt" for skiing on snow (it's good if it can be unfastened), a mini-carabiner for keys, a special cloth for wiping glasses or masks). If you ride with a helmet (which we really hope), it makes sense when choosing a jacket to check if the hood can be put on the helmet - on windy days this feature can come in handy. The color of clothes is not the most important parameter when choosing, because on the slope they pay attention primarily to a beautifully skiing person. If you are going to a ski resort for the first time, try not to get an all-white suit - although this option looks attractive when trying on, in the mountains it merges with snow. In addition, with poor visibility, a person in a completely white robe is quite difficult to find on a slope.

4. How to choose skis?
If you have already tried your hand at the slopes and are sure that you will ski for more than one season, it makes sense to buy your own skis - they will pay off after the first trip to the mountains. When choosing skis, try to determine as accurately and objectively as possible your level of skiing and the type of slopes on which you ski. Otherwise, you run the risk of buying skis that absolutely do not suit you, and money will be thrown away. No need to take the skis too far, hoping that in the new season you will be able to participate in freeride competitions, since the plow turn has already been mastered. Skis differ not only in the target group for which they are created - for beginners, experienced, athletes, freeriders, but also in a number of characteristics. There are specialty skis, originally designed for various types of skiing (for example, slalom and giant slalom skis), skis for skiing off-piste, for jumping and acrobatics in snow parks, skis for ski tours, etc. However, for those who are just taking their first steps on the tracks, there is no need to delve into the details of the parameters, geometry, device and differences between different models.

5. Which manufacturer's skis are better?
There are no bad or good manufacturers, there are no bad or good skis - there are those that are best for you. The general rules for choosing skis are: the price when choosing skis is by no means the main determining factor. If you are sure that you will ski a lot and often, it is best to test the skis before buying. Alpine ski tests are regularly carried out by leading manufacturers, in the Alps tests are held at the beginning and end of the season. If this is not possible, but you want to buy skis, carefully study the test results and expert reviews in magazines and the Internet, and try to correctly assess your level of skiing and its dynamics. If you are training with an instructor, it makes sense to consult with him.

6. How to choose the right ski size?
If you are only going to ski in the Alps, choose skis 5-10 cm smaller than your height - if you prefer long turns and high speed. For lovers of frequent turns, skis designed for short arcs are better suited, 10-15 cm less tall. These rules work best with a normal ratio of weight and height of the rider. If the skier is overweight, it is better to choose a slightly more powerful model than a much longer ski. When choosing skis for beginners, the choice of manufacturer is unimportant, choose the “younger” (simplest) models and focus primarily on the design of the skis and their size.

7. How to choose skis for a woman and a child?
All manufacturers produce a whole series of women's skis, which differ not only in color, but are also better adapted to the characteristics of the female figure. When buying skis for a child, you don’t have to take them out of hand, trying to save money. Each ski size is designed for a specific age and height of the child, and skiing that is too long can be unsafe. In addition, children's skis are very liquid, and it is not difficult to sell them after the child grows up. For a child taking their first steps on skis, it is better not to buy too long skis. In any case, it makes sense to listen to the recommendations of a coach or instructor, or limit yourself to rental equipment.

8. How to understand the variety of ski models? What to look for when choosing?What are skis?

Freeride skiing First of all, they are intended for those who ride very well and own the technique of skiing off-piste in deep untouched snow (virgin soil). All manufacturers develop such skis taking into account the wishes of freeriders and off-piste skiing. As a rule, these are skis with a wide “waist” - more than 100 mm, often with special technological solutions to make the skis more manageable and stable. Among the models for freeride among professionals, it is especially popular Scott, Volkl, Dynastar, Armada, Black Crow, K2, Black Diamond and others - it is on them that the winners and prize-winners of the World Freeride Championship and other prestigious competitions ride. These are usually the most expensive skis in the line, and other major manufacturers make them - HEAD, Elan, Fischer, Atomic, Salomon, as well as a number of companies specializing only in freeride equipment.

Freestyle skis easy to distinguish by color and shape: twintip construction with rounded heel, particularly striking design and not the lowest price. Such skis are primarily designed to provide the skier with a comfortable landing after jumps and tricks. Some models use additional edge reinforcement under the boot, such skis are designed to perform tricks on the railing.

Women's skis produced by all the major manufacturers, and these skis differ not only in color and design (they do not have to have flowers on them). Like men's skis, women's skis vary greatly in their purpose, from "soft" skis for comfortable skiing for beginners to "aggressive" models for freeride or expert carving.

Sports or skis of the "Race" category - a special category of skis, designed primarily for competitions in various disciplines. This category includes long, heavy and extremely fast skis for downhill skiing, and slalom skis (the shortest of the entire sport ski line), as well as skis for super-G and giant slalom. "Slalom skis" can be distinguished by a pronounced difference between the width of the tip and the waist of the ski. Giant slalom skis have a larger radius, are longer than slalom skis, and are straighter. Currently, sports skis are produced by many well-known manufacturers: HEAD, Atomic, Fischer, Rossignol, Salomon, nordica, Volkl, Elan, Dynastar, Blizzard, Stoeckli and others. What is the Constructors' Cup for Formula 1 is the Alpine Skiing World Cup for manufacturers of alpine skis. Last season, the top brand in terms of total points earned in the overall standings for men and women was HEAD, for men - Salomon, for women - HEAD. In addition to these two brands, Atomic, Rossignol and Nordica, the top five (according to the results of the overall standings) last season also included athletes on Fischer, Stoeckli, Voelkl (see details on fis-ski.com).

Carving skis- currently the most common type of ski, designed for skiing on prepared slopes. These skis are more comfortable and “softer” than competition skis, they are more forgiving of mistakes and allow you to ski perfectly quickly on prepared slopes, however, these skis are not very suitable for snow skiing. These skis have a narrow waist, wide toe and heel. The range of carving models from all manufacturers is very wide - from high-tech models for experts, which use various innovations, to simpler and inexpensive skis for beginners.

Universal Models- skis in which manufacturers tried to combine the best qualities of different models and make skis "for all occasions". On such skis, you can also accelerate on an empty prepared slope, or ride a little outside the slopes, along hillocks or crust. But, of course, like any “universal”, they are inferior to specialized ski models designed, for example, only for freeride or only for carving. A good option for those who want to have one pair of skis for skiing in the "big mountains" and for short trips to local hills.

Children's and junior models- as the name suggests, designed for children and teenagers. Children's skis should first of all be beautiful and not too heavy, so as not to discourage little skiers from skiing. But for junior models, which are intended for novice athletes, completely “non-childish” requirements are already being presented. When choosing children's and junior models, it makes sense to follow the recommendations of the trainer or instructor involved with the child.

9. In the store, the sales assistant sprinkles terms. I don't understand anything about this. What is the seller talking about?

In specialized sports and ski stores, the sales assistant may operate with the characteristics of skis and boots that will not be immediately clear to beginners. A small "educational program":

Soft skis. This term does not mean that the ski is soft to the touch, it is a conditional name for the characteristics of the ski. These skis are easier to forgive mistakes, allow you to apply not too much effort for skiing, and absorb large terrain irregularities well. Soft skis are primarily models for beginners, as well as models for freeride, although they are radically different - both in appearance, and in structure, and in other characteristics. It is convenient to learn on such skis, but it is easy to “grow up” from them quickly, so experts often do not recommend buying the “lowest” models.

Rigid skis- require good skills, physical form and effort for skating. On such skis it is easier to pick up speed, they clearly arc, but for beginners and not too well trained people on such skis it will be too difficult to learn. Each manufacturer in the same class of skis (carving, expert carving, all-rounders) offers models of different stiffness. In addition, modern technologies used in the manufacture of skis allow energy to be stored and released to increase glide speed. Heavier people are advised to buy skis with slightly more stiffness than recommended for normal weight skiers.

stable skis- a characteristic of the behavior of the ski on the slope. Sports skis have the highest stability indicators. It is assumed that more stable skis practically do not leave the slope at the moment of sliding, more precisely, they are in the flight phase for a minimum amount of time.

Ski width. A wider ski behaves better in deep snow and virgin snow, does not “sink”, as a rule, is more stable and stable.
The wider the toe, the easier it is to turn and initiate the turn. These skis are used for carving. The wider the waist of the ski, the better the ski is suitable for off-piste skiing. Such skis respond better to the actions of a freerider, float in deep snow, and do not sink in virgin soil. On skis with a narrower waist, it is easier to screw up.
Skis with a wide heel and a wide toe are used for carving. The wider the heel, the deeper the arc at the end of the turn.

Side cutout of the ski. The smaller the radius of the sidecut (measured in meters), the smaller the radius of the arcs that the skier can ride. A larger cut (and radius) is made on slalom and carving skis, these skis allow you to make more turns on short slopes. On skis for off-piste skiing, a shallow cut of a large radius is made.

Ski length or size. In addition to the basic rules for determining size, when choosing, you can focus on the following: longer skis are usually more stable, more stable and easier to ride on virgin ground. Such skis are suitable for skiing in the Alps or other "big mountains", on wide and long slopes. Shorter skis are better for frequent turns, they are easier to go on hard slopes with ice patches, they behave better on rough, bumpy tracks, they are easier to learn. When choosing a size, it makes sense to follow the manufacturer's recommendations for the target group, because in addition to the length of the ski and its geometry, a lot of other parameters affect the behavior of the ski.

Boot stiffness index- a characteristic of ski boots, showing how quickly and sensitively they transmit the efforts of the skier and his movements to the ski. The maximum stiffness index (150 or more, depending on the scale adopted by the manufacturer) is for sports skating boots. These boots are designed primarily for competition, but to be worn all day on the slopes usually require careful fitting and good physical condition of the wearer. "Rigid" boots make the skier work harder on the slope, but at the same time optimally and quickly convey any of his movements. The most "soft" boots (some models may have lacing instead of traditional clips), designed for beginners and those who prefer to spend more time in restaurants and sun loungers or prefer relaxed skiing. Each manufacturer determines the stiffness index on its own scale, sometimes designating it not with numbers, but with letters. The best choice for intermediate skiers and non-competitive skiers - boots that fit perfectly on the last, with a special insole and a medium level of rigidity. For each model, the manufacturer clearly defines its target group: beginners, intermediates, confident riders, experts, freeriders, athletes, etc.

thermoforming- a special process during which the boots are heated to a certain temperature and adjusted to the characteristics of the legs of a particular person. For example, if the boot is a little tight around the ankle, thermoforming will usually help solve this problem. It is strongly recommended that you do not try to thermoform yourself - this can damage the boot or achieve completely unexpected results. The ideal “tuning” of boots is a combination of professional thermoforming and an individual thermoformed insole (they will be individually adjusted not only to the features of the skier's feet, but also to a specific model of boots). A special insole helps to optimize the distribution of a person's weight while skiing, avoids discomfort with flat feet and a number of orthopedic features and diseases.

Walking-skating position- a special switch (usually on the back of the boot), which makes it easier to walk in boots and more clearly and quickly transfer forces to the skis while skiing. Do not forget to switch it to the desired position, especially when riding.

Canting- a characteristic of boots that allows you to adjust their inclination and position, depending on the anatomical structure and location of the shins and knees. It especially helps to ride comfortably if the skier has X- or O-shaped legs.

Adjustable buckle/clip- additional divisions on the clips or the ability to move them for expansion allows people with wide shins to ride comfortably.

Women's boots designed taking into account the anatomical features of skiers. Like men's shoes, they can be of any stiffness. Modern women's boots have a more elegant design, often with plush/fur trim, and tend to be lighter than men's boots. Many manufacturers offer cropped models with a low top for women with a wide shin. For beginners, there are also models with easy entry, which provide comfortable putting on / taking off boots.

10. Are there any special rules in the mountains?
Traffic rules in the mountains: safe riding rules
On the tracks, as well as on the roads, their own rules apply, and these rules must be known and observed. The rules of the FIS (International Ski Federation) are designed primarily to prevent accidents on the slopes and act as “rules of the road”, allowing disputes to be settled. Recently, many ski resorts have been running promotional campaigns to educate holidaymakers about these rules and reduce the number of injuries. Statistics show that many collisions and accidents in the mountains occur due to negligence and elementary ignorance of the “mountain traffic rules.”

Respect others

• The skier or snowboarder must behave in such a way that he/she does not endanger himself or others or harm others.
  Control your speed
• The skier or snowboarder must control his speed and direction of travel. You should measure your speed and driving style with the condition of the track, snow cover, weather and the number of people on the slope.
  Choice of direction
• A skier or snowboarder approaching from behind must choose the direction of travel in such a way as not to endanger the skier or snowboarder in front.
  Overtaking
• A skier or snowboarder may overtake another skier or snowboarder from either side, provided that the overtaken person has enough room for intentional or unintentional movements.
  Entering the slope, starting the movement, moving up the slope
• A skier or snowboarder entering the piste, starting from a stop or climbing up must do so without endangering himself or others.
  Stop on the track
• A skier or snowboarder must not stop in narrow areas of the course or where visibility is limited, except in cases of emergency. After a fall in such places, the skier or snowboarder must clear the track as soon as possible.
  Ascent and descent without skis
• A skier or snowboarder going up or down a slope without skis must walk along the edge of the trail.
  Pay attention to signs and markings
• The skier or snowboarder must follow the signs and markings.
  Giving help
• In the event of an accident, it is the duty of every skier or snowboarder to help the victim.
  Identification
• All skiers or snowboarders and bystanders, whether or not involved in the incident, must exchange names and addresses after the incident.

11. What you need to know when going to the mountains?

In addition to the elementary observance of the rules, there are several ways to protect yourself and others from trouble.
Don't hesitate to help and training from an instructor, relying on their own talents and athletic form. Beginners trying to learn on their own or with the help of non-professional “teachers” are at greater risk.
Don't force the process, trying to learn “everything at once” in 1-2 days.
enjoy own, well-fitting and well-chosen boots, or rent equipment from a good rental company. When choosing and fitting equipment, try not to overestimate your own level of riding. If the selected skis, board or boots do not fit - do not hesitate to return to the rental and exchange them.
Do not use the equipment of your friends - the risk of injury increases dramatically.
Necessarily do a warm-up before riding: a few simple exercises and stretching allows you to ride more confidently and safely.
Rest on time- most incidents occur in the afternoon. Those who are too tired, who have eaten or drank too much, or who do not feel well, should not go on the slope. In these cases, it is better to go down on the lift, not succumbing to persuasion.
Don't start running on the slopes. Often, as when driving a car, there is euphoria and the illusion of complete control of the situation, and modern alpine skiing allows you to reach speeds of over 120 km / h. Do not ride too fast: it is much easier to get a serious injury. Experts who are completely confident in their abilities should think about those who ride nearby - their level of riding and reaction speed may not be so good.
Don't starve and don't skip food. At the height of proper nutrition, and especially "slow" carbohydrates are simply necessary. They are the source of energy that makes the muscles work quickly and correctly.
Don't forget about water: in high altitude conditions, the body's need for fluid increases, but you should not drink coffee and alcohol exclusively. Dehydration can lead to premature fatigue and injury.

Never don't go off the trails by oneself. Even if you have all the avalanche equipment and you are completely confident. Do not forget about the avalanche risk, pay attention to the estimates of the likelihood of avalanches (marked with numbers from 1 to 5 or flags, posted daily at the ticket office, lifts and maps of the region).
Never do not ride on a closed track. In the event of an injury on such a track, you will most likely have to pay the cost of evacuation and the work of rescuers. Tracks are closed for a reason, even if at first it is not obvious.
Listen to your body and pay attention for anxiety symptoms. And, most importantly, leaving for the mountains - don't turn off your head. And don't forget to wear a helmet.

Apres-ski- literally (from French) - “after skiing” - all kinds of recreation in the mountains: bars, restaurants, discos, spa centers, sports complexes, etc.

Green track- a track for beginners, usually absolutely gentle. In some countries, green trails are not classified, but are marked in blue on the maps.

Kant- the lower edge of the ski, upholstered with a steel plate (edging). Depending on the position of the skis, the edges can be called internal (the ribs closest to each other on skis placed next to each other) and external, upper and lower. In a turn, the inner edge on each ski is called the one that is closer to the center of the turn, and the outer edge is the opposite, located farther from the center of movement.

Red track- a track for confident skiers, depending on the resort and terrain, as a rule, of medium difficulty.

off-piste- off-piste skiing on unmarked and unprepared slopes, requires a good level of training. In some resorts, such skiing is considered prohibited without a guide.

Plow- the position of the skis set at an angle with flattened socks. Technique of the simplest sliding, braking and turning on gentle slopes.

Ratrak- snow grooming machine that processes the tracks.

Blue track- an easy, simple track, usually with a minimum slope.

Ski stops- part of the ski mounts, necessary to hold a detached ski on the snow.

Rack- the position of the skier on the descent. In terms of height, the stance is low, medium and high, in terms of the degree of inclination of the body forward and backward - front, normal and rear.

Ski pass (ski pass, lift pass) - a subscription to the lifts.

Ski-bus- a bus for skiers, delivering them to the skiing regions and back to the resort center or to hotels.

Black track- the highest category of tracks in terms of complexity, as a rule, black indicates a track with a large steepness or a narrow one, requiring good technique from the riders.

It is quite difficult for a non-professional skier to pick up skis. In rental offices and sports shops, a beginner will be advised to make a choice based on physical indicators - height and weight. This advice is correct.

But in addition to physical data, experience in skiing should also be taken into account. No one can objectively do this, except for a person who buys or rents ski equipment.

So what do you need to know about skiing so that your vacation in the mountains does not disappoint? To How to choose the right skis?

Main types of skis

Due to the fact that forty manufacturers are simultaneously producing skis, choosing the right sample is not an easy task.

First of all, you should pay attention to ski type.

Sports or professional designed for people involved in skiing for more than one year in a row. They are distinguished by their high quality and the same prices.

Issued several types for different descents and the nature of the snow cover:

• For giant slalom (with elevation changes from 250 to 450 meters);
• Slalom (winding downhill with natural or artificial obstacles);
• Downhill;
• Freestyle (ski jumping and hill climbing).
• Amateur also belong to the sports type, but they are cheaper and heavier.
• Designed for non-professional skiers. The international designation is Fitness.

Tourist skis designed for long hauls. Relatively heavy - weighing up to one and a half kilograms and wide, with special notches to facilitate movement and prevent slipping back on slopes. Does not require lubrication.

Divided into several types:

• Taiga (wide and straight);
• Tundra (with fitted geometry and steel edging around the perimeter for ease of maneuvering);
• Universal (with a curved profile for better handling).

Baby designed for children and teenagers. More often they are made of plastic with adjustable fasteners for a regular boot. International designation - Junior.

Most manufacturers mainly produce skis universal view.

Extra options

Knowledge of some technical nuances will also facilitate the choice.

1. Movement type:
   - Classic skis are designed for skiing on tracks with parallel tracks;
   - Skate type for riding similar to cross-country skating.
2. Material:
   - Wooden ones get wet and delaminate faster. Suitable for teaching children to ski on dry snow. Now they are practically not for sale.
   - Plastic do not require lubrication, durable, glide well.
3. The form:
   — Classic straight line;
   - Carving with a fitted geometry. This form is convenient for beginner skiers due to the greater stability of the skis.
4. Deflection and block:
   - Soft - with a long block, skis are designed for riding on soft snow;
   - Hard - with a short block, for driving on a hard track at positive temperatures;
   - Medium - a combined option, universal skis for any surface.

You can save money by buying a model of the last year of manufacture. This will not affect the quality of the inventory in any way, but the family budget will only benefit. The approximate cost of skis for beginners is 150-180 dollars.

How to choose skis for height and weight

To how to choose the length of skis?

Basic Formula Calculating the length of skis for a beginner is very simple. 5-10 centimeters are subtracted from height in men, and 10-15 centimeters in women.

If you are unsure of standing on skis, it is better to play it safe and subtract more - 20 centimeters.
And amateurs who have mastered steep slopes can afford to choose skis equal in length to their height.

With a lot of weight(90 and more kilograms) skis are taken 5-10 centimeters longer.

For women special models are also produced, lighter and more maneuverable.

How to choose bindings, poles and ski boots

Sticks

Sticks must be chosen by sampling. Holding the stick by the handle, you need to press your elbow to the body and see at what angle the arm is bent at the elbow.

A right angle means the sticks fit. Deviations of a couple of degrees are not critical.

Mounts

To Which ski carrier is best?

Beginners do not need binding models suitable for sports skis. However, the quality of the product is important in any case.

The main thing what you need to remember when choosing - for all manufacturers, the bindings are suitable for absolutely any boots.

Main difference bindings lies in the width of the ski stop - a wire in the back, which is selected depending on the width of the skis (their waist). To put on bindings, these wires must be greater than the width of the skis. Usually the manufacturer specifies the recommended dimensions.

Also taken into account fastening type.

• Platform mount. The mount is attached to the ski platform. Some manufacturers come with pre-drilled platforms.
• Directly to ski. The fastening is screwed on. This method reduces the durability of skis and spoils their appearance in case of fastener movement.
• With the help of "sledges"- a special device that allows you to easily change the size of the boot (rearrange the mount). Such fastening is short-lived. From loads, it fails in the third or fourth year. Replacing the "sled" is difficult. By the time of a breakdown, this ski model and its components may already be discontinued.

Boots

The best option- purchase transformer boots with a fixed leg fixation while skiing. Once the latch lock is released, these boots are ready to walk. Properly fitted shoes allow the toes to move freely, while the heel is fixed.

The clips of a new boot should not fasten on the last prong! It is necessary to adjust the fit of the boot to the foot throughout the entire time of use. And it's not just one season.

To prevent injury it is extremely important to choose the right operation - detaching the boots from the skis in the event of a fall. It is installed with fastening screws with load scales.

To make an informed choice, you need to use special tables, which take into account weight, athletic training, frequency of falls.

• The weight is divided by ten (for professional skating). Beginners and older people should take 20-30 kg.
• For those who have mastered high-speed skating with sharp turns, the upper binding force should be greater than for beginners.
• With frequent falls, a soft mount is required. And for people who ride confidently, hard fasteners are more suitable.

How to choose skis for a child

To how to choose the size of skis?

When choosing skis for a child, you need to consider first of all the weight.

• Skis with a length of 80 centimeters are suitable for a young skier weighing 10-20 kg.
  With a weight of 20 to 30 kg, a length of 90 centimeters is needed.
• Meter skis will be required for a child weighing from 30 to 40 kg.
• For children heavier than 40 kg, skis are selected according to their height. The approximate height is the level of the chin, or nose.

Classic pointed skis with notches are ideal for on gentle slopes. They do not allow you to develop high speed and are suitable for inexperienced skiers.

Best for trails short skate skis with side rails. They require sufficient experience in skiing.

Skis are made of plastic or wood. Wooden ones are suitable for dry frosty weather. On wet snow, they quickly get wet and become heavy. Plastic is universal- you can ride both in the thaw and in the cold.

Choice of sticks

Sticks are not needed for small children. Their task is to learn to keep balance.

For older children, poles are selected according to the same principles as for adult skiers. Straps should tightly wrap around the hand to prevent the stick from falling out during movement.

stick tips in order to avoid injuries, non-sharp ones are selected, with ring-shaped supports.

Choice of mounts

Manufacturers produce children's skis with ready bindings, differing in hardness.

• soft - made of leather belts or rubber;
• semi-rigid, denser;
• hard - require the use of ski boots.

Choice of boots

Boots are getting matched strictly in size! Usually these are teenage models with one clip. The toes should move freely, and the heel should not come off the insole when walking. Properly selected shoes are a guarantee that the child will enjoy skiing.

How to choose skiing - video

Let's sum up now, let's watch a short video about how to choose the right skis.

Please tell us how you bought your first skis. What difficulties arose with the selection of bindings, ski poles and boots? Leave your

Before looking at specific skis, you need to decide what you plan to do on the slopes.

How to choose skiing for the intended purpose

Carving or piste skis (Carving)

Dynastar carving skis. evo.com

These skis are designed for skiing on ready-made ski slopes, they allow you to easily enter sharp turns and ride with carving equipment - not on the entire sliding surface, but only on the edges (narrow metal strips along the edges of the ski, with which turns are made).

Unlike racing skis, carving skis are softer and can be ridden with imperfect technique. Therefore, they can be chosen by beginners and those who prefer prepared slopes.

What to buy

Skis for professional racing (Racing)

Salomon racing skis. evo.com

These are special carving skis for slalom (SL), giant slalom (GS), super slalom (SG) and downhill (DH). Models are very different in geometry and features, designed for athletes and cost a lot.

What to buy

Universal skis (All-mountain, All-terrain)

Universal skis Armada. evo.com

These skis are suitable for skiing on compacted slopes, and for freeride on virgin lands, and for downhill skiing. Such skis are inferior to specialized ones, but their capabilities are quite enough for comfortable amateur skiing.

What to buy

Freeride skis (Big-mountain, Backcountry)

Skis for freeride Salomon. evo.com

These are wider skis for skiing on unprepared slopes. The increased width of the skis keeps the freerider on deep fluffy virgin ground, and also allows you to jump from rocks without harm to health.

What to buy

Skis park, for freestyle (Park & ​​Pipe, Freestyle)

Moment park skis. evo.com

These are skis designed for acrobatics and ski jumping in special parks, passing mogul tracks.

Often park skis are twin-tip models with the same curved toe and heel. In such skis, a freestyler can land comfortably after a ski jump with both his back and his face.

What to buy

Having decided on the purpose of the skis, you can begin to select a specific pair. In this case, several parameters must be taken into account: the length, stiffness and radius of the side cutout.

We will not consider skis for professional racing, as they are selected in accordance with a specific sports discipline, and the pros do not need recommendations. Better focus on choosing equipment for beginners and advanced.

Alpine skiing options

Length

The length of skis depends on their purpose and the width of the waist - the narrowest point of the ski.

• Carving, freestyle. To choose the height of carving or park skis, subtract 5–10 cm from your height.
• Freeride. If you choose less wide skis (with a waist of 80 mm), subtract 5 cm from your height. If you are wider (waist from 90 to 110 mm), add 10 cm.
• Universal. If you choose skis with a waist less than 85 mm, subtract 10 cm from your height. If the waist is more than 85 mm, the appropriate length will be -5 to +5 cm to your height.

Rigidity

Rigid skis allow you to develop high speed without losing stability, including during turns. However, hard skiing requires good technique.

Carving skis have greater longitudinal and torsional stiffness than universal skis. Due to this, the centrifugal force that occurs at high speed is compensated. With a lack of rigidity, it will not be possible to make a clear turn: the skis will break into side slip.

The more weight, the more rigid skis are needed to hold it.

It will be more convenient for beginners and amateurs to ride on soft skis, for example, universal ones. They allow you to make mistakes in technique and provide a more comfortable ride. In addition, the stiffer the ski, the higher the price, so for amateur skiing it is preferable to choose soft ones.

As a rule, ski stiffness indicators are indicated on the product card or on the ski tag.

Sidecut Radius

Sidecut radius depends on ski geometry. The larger the radius, the wider the arc along which your skis will pass.

Carving skis are divided into several types depending on the style of skiing. Slalom has a short radius - 9-12 meters, which allows you to move in small arcs. Long-radius skis with indicators of 17-25 meters are designed for wide slopes and allow you to develop high speed.

There are also medium-range skis with performance from 12 to 17 meters. Due to the reduced radius, these skis listen better on turns and, unlike long-radius ones, allow you to ride on rather tight, crowded slopes.

The radius of universal skis is from 15 to 18 meters. This radius is suitable for those who are just mastering the ski slopes.

Due to the increased width, freeride skis have a large sidecut radius - about 20 meters. Such models are best chosen by trained skiers.

Alpine ski designs

Now there are three main designs of alpine skis and many mixed options.

The core of such skis is usually made up of several layers of wood and synthetic materials and is reinforced with carbon or fiberglass mesh.

From the sides, the core is closed with plastic walls, on top - with a decorative strip, and from below - with a sliding surface. Due to several layers of the core, the strength of the ski increases and depreciation increases.

Unlike Sandwich, these skis do not have side and decorative trims, and the core is closed with one monolithic structure that reaches the edges.

Cap provides less weight and more torsional rigidity of the ski, which, in turn, increases its handling. In addition, production is less expensive, and therefore such skis are sold at lower prices.

Monocoque (monocoque)

This is a development of the Salomon brand, a one-piece composite body to which a sliding surface is glued. Inside the case there is a core made of wood or light synthetic materials.

Skis made using Monocoque technology have high torsional rigidity and low weight, which ensures cornering stability and less sensitivity to track irregularities.

In addition to these three designs, there are a large number of mixed options. For example, Monocoque-Sandwich or even Cap-Sandwich, when the middle of the ski is made according to one technology, and the ends - according to another.

Alpine skiing materials

Alpine ski cores are made from lightweight wood, plain foam, or a combination of wood and synthetic materials.

Wooden cores perfectly dampen vibrations, provide good ski control and uniform elasticity along the entire length.

In cheaper skis, foam cores can be found. For example, the Cap structure is filled with light synthetic foam. Foam does not provide such stability and elasticity as wood, but it weighs less.

Foam core. backcountry.com

The next layer is the core braid made of composite materials. The stiffness of the ski depends on it to a greater extent. The braid is made of fiberglass, carbon and fibers of other materials in combination with epoxy resin. To increase the rigidity, the braid can be supplemented with metal plates made of light alloys, such as aluminum and titanium.

In the production of a sliding surface, combined materials are also used. For example, polyethylene with the addition of graphite. Graphite reduces the electrostatic charge, due to which small ice crystals and dirt stick to the sliding surface, and polyethylene ensures better retention of the ointment on the surface.

How to choose ski bindings

The choice of fasteners depends on several parameters.

1. Mounting standard. There are several binding standards that are suitable for boots with a certain type of sole:

• Alpine Mounts. Suitable for ISO 5355 soles. This standard applies to most trail skating boots.
• Frame mounts. In such mounts, the front and rear are connected by a frame. Due to this, the skier can not only ride with a fully secured foot, but also unfasten the heel to go skiing, for example climbing a mountain. Most of these bindings are compatible with ISO 9523 (Touring) soles.
• WTR (Walk to Ride). Developed by Salomon. Boot bindings with a higher WTR sole with tread for comfortable walking.
• MNC (Multi Norm Compatible). These bindings will fit any sole standard: ISO 5355, ISO 9523 and WTR.

2. Elastic fastening. This is the maximum force at which the fastening will not unfasten, but will return the boot to its place.

Bindings for carving skis have a little elasticity. It is enough to shift the boot by 1 cm, and everything will come unfastened.

Freeride bindings are more flexible, as they are under more stress when riding wide skis on unprepared slopes. To release the freeride binding, the boot must move to the side by 2.5-3 cm.

3. Ski stop width. Ski-stop (ski-stop) is a metal bracket that is needed for braking if the ski comes unfastened. Looks like two wires on the sides of the mounts.

The waist (narrowest point) of the ski should be narrower than the ski stop. Otherwise, you will not be able to put the mount on the ski.

If the ski stop bracket is too wide, it will protrude far beyond the boundaries of the ski and cling to the snow when skiing. Therefore, choose a ski mount only after you choose the skis themselves.

4. Features of fastening on a ski. Bindings are installed on skis in different ways.

• With screws. This is the most secure installation method. Cons: You can't use multiple skis with the same binding. In addition, the screws break the structure of the skis a little, so if you want to change the bindings, holes will remain from the old ones.
• On a platform with holes. Some ski models have a binding platform. In this case, it is better to buy mounts from the same manufacturer: the platform holes will match the mounts and you will not have to spend a lot of time on installation.
• On a platform without holes. If the ski has a platform without holes, any bindings will work, since you will make the holes yourself.
• On a platform with guides. For such platforms, special fasteners are needed, which are put on the guides, after which the screw is tightened. Such bindings are easily changed to the size of the boot, which can be useful if several people ski on the same ski.

How to choose sticks

1. Material. Sticks can be made of aluminum or carbon fiber and fiberglass. When choosing aluminum models, pay attention to the numbers on the stick. For example, 5086 or 6061 is an indication of an alloy. The higher the number, the more rigid and durable the alloy.

Models made of carbon fiber and fiberglass are lighter, stronger and more expensive than aluminum, however, they do not last forever: if you damage a stick made of composite materials with a sharp edge of a ski, it will quickly break under load.

2. Shape. Sticks for normal skiing are straight. For high-speed descents, such as giant slalom, they are curved. This shape allows athletes to remove the rings of sticks behind their backs during the descent, increasing aerodynamics.

the-raceplace.com

3. The size and shape of the rings. The rings at the bottom of the stick are designed so that the stick does not go deep into the snow. Freeride models are equipped with large guides to keep the pole well on soft, fluffy snow. The poles for piste skiing are equipped with small rings that will not interfere and cling to the boots while skiing.

Some manufacturers make sticks with interchangeable rings for different riding conditions.

4. Stick length. This is the most important indicator.

To find the perfect length, turn the stick over and grab it under the ring. If in this position a right angle forms between the forearm and shoulder, this stick is right for you. Some experts advise adding 5-7 cm to this length to take into account the immersion of the stick in the snow.

Before choosing poles, put on ski boots: they will add a few centimeters to your height.

As for the lanyard (the strap that secures the stick on the arm), it is not advised to wear it. During a fall, ski bindings will automatically release your boots, but you are unlikely to be able to remove the lanyards from your wrists as quickly. And this is fraught with injury. Therefore, you may well choose sticks without lanyards or cut them off after purchase.

What to buy

Ski boots parameters

First, we will tell you what characteristics ski boots have, and then we will analyze how to choose boots depending on your style of skiing.

Rigidity

This characteristic indicates how much effort you need to make to change the angle of the boot top. The stiffer the boot, the better your muscle forces are transferred to the skis.

Soft boots dampen efforts due to the bending of the bootleg. As a result, ski control is reduced.

The stiffer boots you buy, the easier it will be to manage your skis.

However, hard boots have a drawback: while skiing, they can rub your feet, cause pain and swelling. Therefore, beginners are not advised to buy too hard boots.

sole type

ISO 5355 standard. Most ski boots (carving and sports) have soles of this standard.

ISO 5355 outsole. ebay.com

Touring (ISO 9523). The standard boot for ski touring or cross-country travel up and down. These boots have a higher rubber sole with a deep tread. Sometimes shoes are sold with interchangeable pads that allow them to be used with regular bindings.

Touring outsole. gearinstitute.com

WTR (Walk to Ride) is the standard for freeride boots that require special WTR bindings. Some models of these boots can also be used with Touring bindings.

WTR outsole. lugaresdenieve.com

Shoe width

Shoe width - the distance between the walls of the boot at its widest point. Should match the width of your foot. As a rule, this parameter is indicated on the boot, and you can measure your foot directly in the store or rental: usually there are special rulers there.

There are boots with adjustable shoe widths. They indicate the range, for example, from 100 to 150 mm.

Remember: in boots that are too wide, you will not be able to fix your legs well, so it will be difficult for you to control your skis while skiing. Therefore, it is better to focus on the numbers and not buy too spacious shoes.

thermoforming

This is the ability of the boot to conform to the shape of your foot when exposed to heat.

Inner boot in thermoformable material. backcountry.com

In some boots, only problem areas can be molded, in others, the entire surface of the boot is molded.

If your boots are labeled Auto Fit, they are thermoformed while you wear them, from the warmth of your foot. A few days of riding is enough for the self-molded boots to adapt to your features.

Walk around the store for 10 minutes before buying shoes. So you will understand whether your boots are tight or not, they need thermoforming or it is worth trying on others.

Custom Fit shoes are designed for hot forming with a special dryer. Hot forming is done in the store after trying on, if it seems to you that the boot fits in size, but it presses a little in some place.

First, the boot is heated with a hair dryer for about 10-15 minutes, then you put it on, fasten the clips and stand for about 10 minutes. Then remove and leave for at least an hour until the material hardens in the desired position.

Warming

Ski boots are insulated with down, wool and various synthetic materials, such as 3M Thinsulate hydrophobic insulation.

Unlike natural materials, synthetic materials have the ability to wick moisture away from the body, so you won't be riding in sweaty socks. At the same time, they should also be made of synthetic material: it is better to leave cotton and wool for other purposes.

How to choose ski boots for their intended purpose

evo.com

These boots will suit you if you are going to ride exclusively on prepared slopes and just for fun. That is, you will not work on speed and technique, set personal records and get out of the track to ride on untouched snow.

Boots for carving come in different stiffness. For beginners, boots with a stiffness value from 60 to 100 are suitable, for progressive amateurs - from 100 to 130.

When choosing boots, do not chase softness and convenience: you will be comfortable in the store, but on the track, when the skis are poorly controlled, this advantage will not seem so significant to you.

The sole of carving skis is equipped with heels made of soft material. This allows you to conveniently climb stairs or walk on the floor, for example, if you are going to relax in a cafe.

Such a snowy, such a dazzlingly beautiful winter! What winter activity can be more exciting than skiing? But for such a holiday, you need the appropriate equipment.

A ski suit is not only comfortable, warm and beautiful, but also, of course, technologically advanced. Modern ski suits are developed in laboratories and go through many stages of testing. However, not every mere mortal will understand all the fancy features and mysterious signs on the labels. It is important to understand that the most expensive model is not always the best. In some cases, you will overpay for a design or a brand, while the main qualities of ski clothing will not be at the highest level.

A ski suit is a whole set of accessories and clothes, the choice of which is strictly individual. This set includes: pants, jacket, thermal underwear, goggles and gloves.

If you go to the mountains in a fancy suit (pants + jacket), while wearing simple cotton underwear and a woolen sweater, don't expect a good effect. A ski suit should not be extremely warm, its main task is to keep the body from getting wet during active riding, and at the same time breathe. What happens if you wear wool and cotton underneath? At first you feel warm, but once you get hot, your body starts to sweat, and these natural materials collect moisture. Then you cool down, but this moisture does not go anywhere, and as a result, a sharp temperature drop and a cold. For this reason, special thermal underwear has been developed from synthetic materials, the main task of which is to remove moisture.

What should you pay attention to when choosing a ski suit?

Waterproof ski jacket

The first indicator: water resistance. This indicator shows how much water pressure the material of the product can hold. This indicator is measured in millimeters of water column (mm w. st). The higher this indicator, the better.

A good ski suit has water resistance values ​​of 10,000 (m w.st) and higher.

Vapor permeability of the ski jacket

The second indicator is very important. It largely depends on whether your skiing will be comfortable and long. The vapor permeability coefficient shows how much steam a material can pass per day per square meter. Again, the higher this figure, the better the body will "breathe" under all this equipment. With heavy loads, the vapor permeability of a ski jacket should reach a value of 20,000 g / m² / day, with loads of medium intensity - 10,000 g / m² / day, but if you are a beginner and no special loads are expected, then 5000 g / m² / day will do.

What you need to know about suits with membranes?

Ski suits with membranes have the best indicators of water resistance and vapor permeability. Currently, there are 3 types of membranes: hydrophilic, porous and combined.

The first type works on the principle that in order for moisture to be removed to the outside, a sufficient amount of condensate must accumulate on the surface of the membrane. For this reason, the suits of the first type are always slightly damp. However, this material is very durable and elastic, does not require the purchase of a special washing shampoo.

Pore ​​membranes they work on the principle that microscopic holes (pores) completely let steam through, but not water. Such membranes work only at very low temperatures, but they do not work in the rain. Products with such membranes are very short-lived and require careful handling.

The most modern at the moment are. They combine the best qualities of the first two types, but also disadvantages. Suits made of this material stretch well, remove moisture, but at the same time they do not work well in conditions of high humidity. It is the third type that has the highest rates of vapor permeability and water resistance and is ideal for extreme conditions. Prices for such suits, as a rule, "bite" the most.

How to wash a ski suit with membranes?

Unfortunately, not all manufacturers write on labels about how to properly care for such expensive suits. But after two or three washes in a washing machine with powder, all the useful qualities of suits with membranes are simply lost. When buying a product, check with the sales assistant whether it requires special care. As a rule, specialized stores sell special shampoos for washing products with climatic membranes.

Three Layer Rule

Choosing a good suit (pants + jacket) is far from everything. Proper equipment involves the presence of three layers, the first of which removes moisture from the body, the second - does not freeze, the third - protects from wind, snow and rain. We have already talked about the third layer, this is our costume. But what are the second and first layers?

The first mandatory layer is thermal underwear. It should be your size, in no case should you be free. It is better not to save on thermal underwear, it should be hypoallergenic and seamless, the material is polyester.

The second layer of equipment is insulation. It can be a variety of sweaters or vests made from synthetic materials. Tip: in some models of jackets, insulation is part of the ski suit, it is better that the second layer is separate from the third.

This was an article about how to choose the right ski suit, I hope the information was useful to you!