The history and description of a kilt is a plaid skirt. Kilt

The kilt is considered the national symbol of Scotland. He personifies the courage and bravery of the harsh highlanders. How the checkered kilt went from a must-have piece of clothing to a symbol of independence - further in the review.

It is generally accepted that the kilt appeared in Scotland around the 7th century. In the village of Nigg there is a stone depicting a man in a kilt dating from this period. The first written mention of a men's skirt dates back to the 16th century. Bishop Leslie, in his reports to the Pope, wrote: “Their clothes are practical and great for battle. Everyone wears the same type of cape."

If we recall the humid climate of Scotland, it becomes clear that in the highlands, wearing trousers was impractical, because the feet quickly got wet. And in kilts, they quickly crossed the area, these clothes dried perfectly and were at night instead of a blanket. It is worth noting that at first only residents of the mountainous regions of the country preferred kilts to trousers.

There are two types of kilts: large and small. The first is a large woolen cloth that is draped around the waist, fastened with a belt and thrown over the shoulder. A “lightweight” version of a kilt, that is, without a top, appeared in the 18th century, when an “extra” piece of fabric began to interfere with workers in production.

The word "kilt" itself is translated from Old Norse as "folded". It is made of tartan - a woolen fabric with colored intersecting lines that form the famous check. Each clan had its own kind of pattern on the fabric, which allowed the inhabitants to immediately determine where strangers came from.

By tradition, the highlanders went to war in kilts, but if necessary they could take them off. In 1645, during the battle, the Scots threw off their skirts and defeated the enemy twice as superior (then there was no concept of underwear). One can only guess why the enemy fell: from the ferocity of the highlanders or their appearance.

A funny picture about curious ladies and Scots.

Sean Connery is a British actor of Scottish descent.

The kilt is also considered a symbol of freedom. In the 18th century, the English government deprived Scotland of independence and, among other things, obliged the population to wear pants. The highlanders, in turn, continued to walk in kilts, and carried trousers with them, stretched on sticks. Then the authorities completely adopted a law prohibiting the wearing of kilts. For disobedience, residents were threatened with a 6-month prison sentence, and for repeated - exile in a colony for 7 years. But it was not possible to expel everyone, and the highest circles of the nobility of Scotland continued to wear checkered vestments in protest. Today, the kilt is considered an integral part of the culture of Scotland, and its people are proud of this clothing and outraged when the kilt is called a skirt.

It was 2001 when they burst into my life - the Tatu group, girls in skirts in a cage. The whim of a 6-year-old lady was the acquisition of this wardrobe item. To announce my "want" I soaped myself in my parents' room. Imperiously opening the door, my victorious facial expressions underwent a correction after what I saw on the TV screen: guys in skirts. In checkered! "Mom, why are they running around in skirts?" I asked in a trembling voice. "Kilt is not a skirt"- Mom answered encouragingly. "They stole the idea from Tatu, didn't they?" - I whispered hopefully. There was no answer about the appearance of this attribute on men. Okay, not a skirt, but why do men wear these kilts? Let's dot the cells once and for all.

Why do men in Scotland wear kilts?

Kilt- it's not just a skirt, but part of a traditional male Scottish costume, which is a long (so much so that they can hide like a blanket) piece of fabric wrapped around the waist, held on it by buckles and straps.

Given the peculiarities of the Scottish climate, its increased coolness and humidity, it becomes clear that in mountainous regions wearing trousers quite simply impractical. BUT kilt- convenient alternative: givesfreedom of movement, dry quicklyaet and warmevaet turning into a warm blanket, you can quickly throw it off and rush at the enemy (and the enemy from him :)) It would seem, how is it, just like in Adam's suit? Now let's figure it out.

"At least take a peek..."

So what's underneath? There is a belief that kilt over lower underwear - taboo. You can, of course, by treating a native with a glass of Scottish scotch, get reliable facts (guys in kilts are not secretive at all :)), but if you dig a little in history, save a couple of euros;)

In Scotland, in present,kiltwear like alower underwear,so and without him. But when theyjust started to wear, a long shirt served as underwear, which, despite the length of the kilt, stuck out from under it in different directions and in every possible way hindered. Becoming an official military uniform him the same worn on the naked body.


Curious facts:

  • Previously, special checks when an officer with a special mirror looked into the soldiers "under the skirt" and in the case linen detection made him take it off.
  • nine out of ten Scottish grooms on their wedding day wear the traditional checkered kilt.
  • In some institutions plaid skirt - a must dress code element for men.

Conclusion

Even now, when there is no need to wade through swamps and tens of mountain kilometers, By wearing a kilt, they honor the memory of the deeds of their ancestors. And of course, men in kilts are a highlight that attracts tourists;)

The history of this wardrobe item began in the 16th century, of course, in Scotland. Its prototype was a long (up to 7 m long) checkered plaid that protected Scottish men from the difficult weather of their homeland. The upper part covered the shoulders and the lower part was laid in the fold around the hips and fastened with a belt with a buckle.

Later, only the lower part of this type of clothing remained - a pleated skirt called "kilt" - "kjilt" in Scandinavian "pleated". And the fabric for such a (still male) skirt was called "tartan", it is pure wool fabric with a checkered woven pattern. Each clan had its own tartan colors, so there are over a thousand different tartan colors in Scotland.

Classic tartan colors of the most numerous clans; combinations of red with black, black with white and gray, blue with purple and green. As women's clothing, the kilt skirt began to be used not so long ago, at the end of the 19th century. But she perfectly got accustomed in women's fashion due to functionality, decorativeness, simplicity of cut.

To date, a classic tartan skirt is considered to be a wool model in a bright check (usually red and black) with a length of approx. 50 cm, with or without a yoke, laid in even, smoothed folds. Such a model should be wrap-around and fastened on the side with 2-3 buckles (however, these elements can be purely decorative).

Models of Scottish skirts have not gone out of fashion for many years; in every season they are present in the collections of one or another fashion house. Fashion designers present the tartan in various variations and interpretations, sometimes it is even difficult to recognize it: the classic pattern from woolen fabric has switched to cotton, silk, and synthetics. Length varies from mini to knee length. The cut and colors are also changing ... In general, today any plaid pleated model can be called a tartan skirt.

What goes with a Scottish skirt? Photo images 2019

The Scottish skirt is an indispensable attribute of the college fashion style, and the preppy style similar to it. This is due to the fact that plaid pleated models were the uniforms of schools and colleges. In this style, the tartan is combined with blouses, vests, tight sweaters and short jackets. With "baby" shoes "Jane", or opaque, woolen tights. In a looser version of this style, baggy hand-knitted sweaters, denim shirts and jackets, and plain T-shirts are selected for such a model.

As a rule, plain things of neutral colors, for example, black, gray or white, are also suitable for it, since a bright check “solo” in the suit. You can also match the top of one of the flowers that make up the checkered pattern on the skirt. The only exception is the pattern of crossed rhombuses "argail" (the magical ornament of the ancient Celts). Sweaters, T-shirts and knitted vests with this pattern go well with plaid.

For an English style, a fitted jacket, a short coat, a blouse with a bow, or lace-up shoes are put on for a tartan (usually with a soft cage). To create a more romantic look, the skirt is complemented with a petticoat with lace, black or white, cream and a blouse with embroidery or lace, with crocheted openwork items. It is permissible to wear a soft Scottish skirt to the office, to a business meeting.

For free time, you can wear a checkered blouse or jacket with a round collar in the fashionable Peter Pan style for a playful and naive ensemble. In the summer, you can wear transparent tights with it or do without them at all. From shoes, depending on the chosen style, closed sandals or shoes worn with socks are suitable.

What is the name of the Scottish skirt, which for some reason is worn by men, and not women? Its name comes from the Scottish "kilt" and since the 18th century has denoted a knee-length skirt. The modern kilt is a woven, woolen, pleated skirt for men from Scotland. Its length is chosen so that it ends up to the top of the knees.

The history of clothing goes back at least to the end of the 16th century. Then he first appeared as a plaid on the belt or "big kilt" - clothes, the upper half of which can be used as a cloak, thrown over the shoulders, or thrown over the head like a hood. The small or marching kilt (by analogy with the "modern") did not exist until the end of the 17th or beginning of the 18th century, and, in fact, this is the lower half of a large robe.

The term "kilt" is used:

According to the Oxford English Dictionary, the noun comes from the verb to kilt, originally meaning "to wrap (a skirt) around the body", which appears to be of Old Norse origin, from the word kjalta, shortened by 2 letters.

Big kilt

The Breacan Fhéilidh (belted plaid) or Feileadh (large) most likely developed during the 16th century from a woolen plaid worn as a tunic.

With the increase in the availability of wool, the cloak grew to such a size that it began to be collected with a belt. The belted plaid was originally a thick woolen fabric consisting of two sheets 54 to 60 inches wide, and up to 7 yards (6.4 m) long. The top half was worn as a cloak draped over the left shoulder, or covered over the shoulders and head to protect against the weather. Once removed, it could be used as a blanket.

The description of 1746 says: the attire is certainly very loose, which is suitable for a man to make very fast transitions, go against the weather, make his way through the rivers. For battle, it was customary to remove the skirt in advance and put it aside.

The exact age of the large kilt is still debated. Early drawings or illustrations appear before the 16th century, the first written source that certainly describes a belted plaid or large kilt is dated 1594.

History of the small kilt

According to the most popular version, the modern Scottish skirt was invented by an English breeder from Lancashire, Thomas Rawlinson, after 1725. By wearing bulky large kilts, the Scots were at risk in the steel industry. Rawlinson separated the bottom of the plaid and got a skirt for men. The invention was liked by his colleague, Ian McDonnell, and after that it quickly spread among the highlanders and other inhabitants of the northern lowlands.

However, according to some coats of arms, a pleated skirt has been worn since 1692. These clothes showed the degree of wealth of the owner. Ordinary people chose monochrome or simple checkered fabrics, while the rich could afford multi-colored squares.

After the defeat of the Scots at the Battle of Culloden, kilts and plaids were banned as an element of Scottish identity in the Disarmament Act, and from 1746 until 1782 they were not used. This men's skirt was given a new life when the British King George IV visited Scotland in 1822 and wore a skirt to an official reception. The myth of the "Clan Tartan" also appeared during this period.

Drawing history

The oldest find of checkered fabric dates back to the 3rd century BC. This is a piece of linen created using the wool of light and dark sheep. This coloring was later called the "shepherd's plaid".

The colors of the cells and stripes depended on the area, or rather, on the plants that grew on it. Therefore, the coloring helped to determine from which region a person was, as well as his clan.

The most common name for this fabric is tartan, but in Russia it is often called "tartan". There is even a Scottish Register of tartans - this catalog contains all the existing fabric options. Many tartans bear a clan name. There are neutral models that are common in certain regions (for example, the Edinburgh tartan) or belong to specific organizations (such as the tartan of the Royal Scottish Dance Society or the Debian project).

It used to be that cloth was reserved for the citizens of the respective clans. Indeed, in Scotland, those who wear someone else's clan tartan are frowned upon. But there are no legal provisions prohibiting this. Scots who see themselves as members of the clan always wear the correct colors. But no one checks whether the buyer has the right to wear this particular look. And as a foreigner, you can choose any if you wish to purchase a kilt or fabric for it.

What does a kilt look like

A modern kilt for men of typical build uses about 6-8 yards of one width (about 26-30 inches), or about 3-4 yards of double width (about 54-60 inches) of fabric. The Scottish skirt is usually made without a hem. The exact amount of tissue depends on several factors, including the number of folds and the size of the person.

For a large kilt, 8 yards of fabric will be used regardless of the size and number of folds. The pleat depth will be adjusted according to the size. For a very large waist, 9 yards of tartan may be needed.

If the kilt is properly sewn, after fastening it should not sit so loosely that the wearer can easily twist it around his body, but also not so tight that the tartan is not wrinkled. The length of the plaid skirt should be about an inch above the knee.

Accessories

The Scottish kilt is usually worn with knee high woolen socks, often with garters, and a fur-lined leather bag that hangs from a strap or chain wrapped around the waist. It can be plain or embossed leather, decorated with fur or metal trim.

Other common accessories, depending on the formal context:

  • belt (usually with a relief buckle);
  • jacket (various traditional silhouettes);
  • pin;
  • sgian dubh (Gaelic for "black knife": a small sheathed knife worn at the top of a belt);
  • shoes (gilly);
  • sometimes the kilt is worn with a shirt, although this is a relatively modern invention and should not be confused with actual historical clothing.

Wearing a kilt with or without underwear is a matter of personal taste. Due to the thickness of the fabric and the folds, the cold is not terrible for men, but for practical and hygienic reasons, underwear is still recommended.

Kilt today

Nowadays, most people consider Scottish kilts to be evening wear or national wear. Although there are people who wear a kilt during the day, as a rule, skirts are bought or rented to be worn at weddings or other formal events, regardless of their nationality or origin.

Scottish skirts are also used for parades, bands. Some regiments/units of the British Army and the armies of other Commonwealth countries (including Australia, Canada, New Zealand and South Africa) with a Scottish background or heritage still continue to wear kilts as part of their clothing or uniform, although they have been used in combat since the 1940s. of the year. Ritual kilts were also designed for the US Marine Corps.

The kilt is associated with the Scottish sense of national pride and is often seen when fans watch a football or rugby match. The black knife is sometimes replaced with a wooden or plastic alternative, or omitted altogether for safety reasons.

The answer to the question why the Scots wear skirts is extremely simple. This is a centuries-old tradition dating back to the 16th century. In those days, Scottish skirts for men served as the main element of clothing, because they allowed them to move freely in the highlands, which is typical for almost all regions of the country. In addition, swamps and lakes, abundant in the historical lands of Scotland, often caused clothes to get wet, and the men's knee-length Scottish skirt saved from this. It is impossible to belittle the fact that this detail of the highlander's wardrobe was an ordinary piece of fabric, and therefore put on easily. Comfort, convenience, practicality and tradition - that's why the Scottish kilt skirt has firmly established itself in the men's wardrobe of Medieval Scotland.

Kilt and modernity

And why do the Scots wear skirts today, when there is no need to travel tens of kilometers on horseback, cross swamps and lakes, and spend the night in the open? The fact is that the independence and self-identification of the inhabitants of Scotland was not easy. Riots, wars and battles for their historical lands, which were not uncommon until the beginning of the 19th century, are firmly established in the self-consciousness of modern Scots. Wearing a kilt is a tribute to traditions, history, and memory of the deeds of ancestors. Of course, in everyday life, men prefer trousers and jeans, but nine out of ten Scottish grooms on their wedding day put on the traditional one, which is considered an attribute of masculinity and courage. In some institutions, a plaid skirt is a mandatory element of the dress code for men. What can we say about the importance of the Scottish kilt skirt for workers in the tourism sector of the state? Men in kilts are a highlight that attracts tourists.


Top