How to sew warm mittens. DIY fur mittens - Irzeis

Beautiful and elegant, warm and comfortable mittens can be sewn with your own hands, using an old sheepskin coat as a material. Such protection for hands during the winter cold is necessary for both adults and children.

The peculiarity of these gloves is that they:

• do not freeze even at the lowest temperatures;
• do not deform under the influence of precipitation;
• do not let in moisture from melted snow.

Mittens from an old sheepskin coat, in which all the fingers of the hand are pressed against each other, warm the hands more efficiently, and so that the wind does not blow them, you need to make a quality seam. Ease of use is ensured by the right size and precisely constructed pattern. For mittens from an old sheepskin coat, no lining is required, which simplifies work. Using the pattern shown in the photo, you can easily make a pattern, cut out and sew children's and adult mittens.

BUILDING A DRAWING

Before starting work, it is enough to build a drawing for one mitten. The second will be an exact copy of it. Put a relaxed hand on a sheet of cardboard and circle its contour so that the future pattern is made in full size of the palm and wrist. It is much easier to make mittens from a sheepskin coat according to a pattern. In addition, this will avoid inaccuracies and make the gloves really comfortable.

Another feature of handmade mittens is that there are no exact sizes used when constructing a pattern. All data are individual, and therefore the author of the work will be interested only in the actual size of the hand. The photo shows that the drawing consists of three parts. The most important detail can be called a protrusion in the area of ​​​​the thumb. It will allow you to sew the details in such a way as to maintain the mobility of the finger itself and not restrict the movement of the palm.

If you need to sew children's mittens from an old sheepskin coat, you should consider the need to ensure such mobility. Having cut out all the components from paper, you can attach the blank to your hand and perform a similar fitting until you get an accurate full-size mitten pattern. Thinking about how to sew sheepskin coat mittens, many housewives try to repeat not only the shape, but also the size of factory products. Doing this is not worth it. It is important to take into account the features and hands of the future owner, and the material used for tailoring.

TRANSFER THE DRAWING TO THE MATERIAL AND CUT OUT THE DETAILS

The sheepskin coat itself, which has been worn for a long time, may have scuffs in some places. When choosing a part of the product to which the pattern will be transferred, it is necessary to consider:

• strength;
• the presence or absence of seams;
• the ability to place all the components of the pattern on one piece.

Many mothers are interested in how to sew mittens from a sheepskin coat according to a pattern made for a child, and which part to use for cutting. In most cases, to sew mittens for a baby, they use the top of the sleeve, and products intended for teenagers are cut on the bottom of the shelves.

One of the important points is the correct layout, during which all components are placed, taking into account the appearance of the back of the mittens. Basic details of the drawing:

• palm;
• thumb;
• rear end.

Having carefully laid out the details of the future mitten on the outside of the sheepskin coat, they need to be circled with tailor's chalk or a bar of soap. Before you start cutting out the parts of the pattern, you should mark the necessary seam allowance with a dotted line. In an effort to do all the work with your own hands, you should pay attention to how to make the cut correctly without damaging the fur of the sheepskin coat.

Usually, a special knife, blade or even a scalpel is used to perform this work. With careful movements without strong pressure, the surface of the sheepskin coat is gradually incised, strictly following all the marked lines, taking into account the allowance for the seams.

1. from fleece and artificial fur (age 3-6-10 years old) download a pattern with a description:

- it's just fleece.

2. from scraps

• In order to draw a pattern of mittens, which is given in the figure, it is necessary to measure the palm below the thumb, add 2-4 cm of margin to the result, and then divide by the number of cells of the main part 1 (by 5). The resulting number will be the size of the side of the square for the pattern.
• For the pattern, we first line the sheet, then transfer the pattern to it.
• From leather and fur for lining, we cut out two pieces of each part. We sweep away the fur and leather part, folding them with the wrong sides.
• Then we connect parts 2 and 3 by folding them with fur. The connecting seam is the "dumpling" seam and it is on the outside. Then we sew the resulting part to part 1.
• The entrance to the glove can be decorated with a strip of fur

3.

When you cut, pay attention to what details are laid out on which side.

4. MITTENS-GINGS (for 3-6 years, for height approximately 98-122 cm.)

author Zhenya3
Waterproof mittens - it was a disaster for my son, he is very active and runs and plays a lot on the street. At one time, about 4 different models of mittens were tested, and only one turned out to be the most successful - the sewn-in rubber bands gathered the fabric well, and when necessary they stretched, and the Velcro strap perfectly held the mitten on the arm, the mitten never fell off. Long cuffs - leggings - were worn directly over the sleeves, and when felting in the snow, nothing got inside the sleeve, the elastic band held the mitten on the sleeve and did not allow the lower part to “pull up”. In other mittens, during the walk, the mittens had to be adjusted 5-10 times. Even more expensive models were not so successful. When it became necessary to buy the same mittens for the fourth time, I decided to try to sew the same ones myself, and removed the pattern from the ripped mittens.
The pattern was removed from the finished ripped product, so minor flaws and inconsistencies are possible. In addition, the insulation in the finished mittens was faux fur, I used thinsulate 100 and fleece as insulation and lining. The mittens turned out a little thicker than the finished ones, so you can keep that in mind. Thinsulate could be easily “halved”, i.e. make it thinner by splitting into two. The lower part - leggings - can be made more authentic. In addition, you can make mittens larger or smaller; I only saw one universal size on sale.
The pattern of the main product consists of 4 parts (on the sheets the lines are given with a simple blue pen), it is given without allowances (1 cm is enough for allowances along all lines):
1. detail A - this is the part of the mittens that goes along the outer (back) side of the palm
2. detail B - the lower part of the inside of the mittens
3. detail B - the upper part of the inside of the mittens
4. detail D - strap (or strap)

The pattern of the insulated lining consists of 3 parts (on the sheets the lines are given with a green felt-tip pen), it is already given with allowances, except for the bottom (grind 05,-07 cm from the edge):
5. detail A - this is the part of the mitten that goes along the outer (back) side of the palm
6. detail B - the lower part of the inside of the mittens
7. detail B - the upper part of the inside of the mittens

Sewing:
Details of the main product are cut out with allowances. Detail G is given folded, so it needs to be “doubled” and allowances should be given. Fold in half, right side inward, stitch along the lines, cut off the corners at the corners, turn out, iron, you can make stitching, stitch a piece of Velcro on the marked lines (it's Velcro, it's also Velcro tape, etc.) - the napped part (that which is softer).
Sew a reflective tape on detail A (if the tape is wider - focus on the upper border) and a piece of Velcro - the side with hooks. On the edge on the front side, pin or stitch a little closer to the edge of the finished part D. To do it right right away - this strap starts from the side opposite from the finger, goes around the palm on the inside along the elastic band and “sticks” on the outside on the Velcro, i.e. . it must be laid in the place where there will be no finger (near the piece of velcro on part A), face to face (the front part of part A and that part of the strap where the velcro is not visible), with the long part towards the finger. If it is not entirely clear - the Velcro on the strap can be stitched later, the main thing is not to forget to put the strap between the details.
Stitch parts B and C to the mark (along the line of the finger). Notch and cut allowances where necessary. Sew on detail B (you can use a regular straight stitch) from the inside along the intended line with an elastic band (the length of the elastic band is about 5.5-6.5 cm, excluding allowances).
Stitch parts B = C and part A, aligning the marks and the attached elastic (make sure that the ends of the elastic get into the seam).
On the resulting mitten from the inside, sew an elastic band in a circle along the intended line (it is this elastic band that will be the “bottom” of the mitten), what is lower will then turn up inside the mitten.

For an insulated lining, cut out parts A, B, C from fleece directly along the contour lines, cut it out, then circle it on a heater (for example, on tinsulate), pin it to the wrong side and stitch about 0.5 cm from the edge of each part separately with such the same detail from the heater. Then the insulation must be cut as close as possible to the laid line.
The tailoring is the same as for the main part of the mittens, but no elastic bands, no Velcro, etc. are sewn on. In addition, for eversion, you need to leave a small segment unsewn, this place is marked on the pattern (from the thumb down).
You can “try on” - put the insulated part of the mitten into the main one, if the insulated subframe does not “fit” (wrinkles the main part or lumps and creases are felt inside), you can reduce it by stitching a little further from the edge of the details.
Then sew the insulated lining and the main part - turn the main part out, put the insulated part into it (the face with the face inside, i.e. the face of the raincoat fabric and the fleece together). It turns out that the line will be laid on the wrong side of the main part of the raincoat fabric, and on the other side there will be a heater (tinsulate). Stitch along the marked line, while the main part will be a little longer, and the elastic will interfere a little. And make sure to stitch the left with the left and the right with the right (the thumb should be on the same line, and not in a mirror image). Trim the seam allowances, turn inside out, manually sew up the seam section left unsewn for eversion.
In addition, after that, you can still sew on loops from HB braid, so that there is something to hang on hooks.

It suddenly got colder, but you didn’t have time to buy gloves? Or has your child once again lost his mittens in kindergarten or school, and you don’t feel like going to the store specially far?
Or maybe you want to make something original? In this case, an interesting idea will help you.
How to sew cozy mittens quickly and simply with your own hands we will tell in this article.

In order to sew warm mittens in the shortest possible time, you will need:
old sweater or cardigan;
tailor's chalk;
scissors;
pins;
threads
needle or sewing machine.
Instead of a pattern, use your hands or your child's hands as a template.

Stages of work:

1. We lay out the cardigan on the working surface with an elastic band down, as in the photo. We put our hands in such a way that the wrists fall into the field of finding the gum. We begin to circle the left palm with chalk. Try not to stretch the jersey, especially in the ribbing area. If you doubt that your mittens can turn out to be of different sizes, for the right mitten you can copy the contours of the left mitten in a mirror image.

2. Carefully cut out the blanks of mittens, taking into account the allowance for the seams - 0.5 - 1 cm. Fold them with the front sides inward and grind. You can sew parts both manually and on a sewing machine. It is recommended to zigzag the edges of the seams so that they do not bloom during application. Turn the products on the front side - the mittens are ready and you can safely wear them!
This is how you can easily and quickly sew original mittens.

Advice: it is desirable that the selected cardigan or sweater has a dense knitted base. This will make it much easier to sew mittens. If the knitwear has a loose and weak weave of threads, you will have to tinker more, you will need tailor's experience. The following difficulties can be expected here: the edges of the blanks of mittens may unravel, or the products may turn out to be skewed after sewing. It should also be noted that mittens made of dense knitted fabric are an order of magnitude warmer than loose ones.

If you want your mittens to be even warmer, double the details on each mitten. Then they will become two-layer. This method is possible if the knitwear you are using is thin.

I wish you success in creating mittens!

And here is a useful video on how to make a pattern for mittens. The master class will be useful for those who want to make mittens according to all the rules and wear them for a long time. I advise you to look!

How to sew mittens with your own hands quickly and easily 2016-09-12T18:50:02+00:00 adminIdeas for needleworkUseful tips, needlework, creativityIt suddenly got colder, but you didn’t have time to buy gloves? Or has your child once again lost his mittens in kindergarten or school, and you don’t feel like going to the store specially far? Or maybe you want to make something original? In this case, an interesting idea will help you. How to sew cozy mittens quickly and easily...admin

Sometimes there is a need for work gloves, and for some reason it is impossible to run to the store. Then you can make them yourself from old unnecessary jeans.

For work you will need:

• Thick fabric (denim, tarpaulin);
• threads (preferably harsh);
• needle;
• chalk or remnant;
• scissors;

A sewing machine will come in very handy.

The product consists of three parts. It is necessary to make patterns for all the details. First, on a piece of paper, you need to draw the upper part of the mitten. To do this, a rectangle is drawn, its upper corners are rounded. If you attach a hand to this drawing, then the palm fits well and there is still enough free space.

By the same principle, two more details of the inner side are cut out.

Now you need to make fabric parts. Paper patterns are applied to the fabric and circled. For this, colored chalk or a remnant with a pointed end is most often used.

When the paper pattern has been circled, it is removed and allowances of another centimeter and a half are circled around the pattern drawn on the fabric. This is necessary so that the size of the finished part does not decrease when everything is sewn together. They are called "seam allowance".

The same is done with the other two parts. To make it more convenient to cut, and the fabric does not travel, you can fasten both layers with pins or sew a few stitches with a basting stitch.

All elements of the pattern are cut out. The resulting parts should be symmetrical for the left and right hand.

If you are a beginner, then you first need to sweep with a needle and thread, and then stitch. Experienced seamstresses can sew without preliminary basting.

Start sweeping with your thumb. This will be the inside of the glove. Sweep the front part to the front.

Slowly sew on sour cream on a typewriter. If you do not have a typewriter, you can flash all this manually. The seam back needle fits here. He's strong enough.

If the fabric frays, it will be very good to overcast the edge with an overcast stitch. Along the entire length. This will make the gloves last longer.

Then they fit the outer part to the inner one and trim it if the edges do not converge somewhere.

When everything is stitched or hand-sewn, you need to overcast new edges.

It remains to unscrew the glove and that's it. It turns out a finished product.

Please note that in this particular case, the fabric on the wrist of the mitten did not have to be hemmed due to the fact that the patterns were made from an already hemmed piece of fabric. Otherwise, you need to stitch this part as well.

This is what the finished product looks like.

Fur gloves are a necessary element of clothing in the cold season. In this article, we will consider tailoring fur gloves in more detail. Gloves:

Materials needed: pattern according to the size of the hand, art. fur, cardboard for a pattern, fabric lining, lace, a piece of ribbon, scissors, threads and a needle, a typewriter

Description of work: transfer the pattern to cardboard. Make adjustments to your size. Then cut out. Attach the pattern to the fur from the wrong side. sides and outline with chalk. Cut out the details of the gloves. Patterns are transferred to the fabric and cut out.

We add the details of the faces. sides and sweep. We sew on a typewriter along the edge. Mittens and lining must be sewn separately. On the lining, sew a line a little further from the edge.

Cut the ribbon into small pieces of three and a half centimeters. Vyvorach. mittens and around the wrist we sew on each. a mitten for four - six points from the tape. We sew fur. We fold a piece of tape in 2 - e and sew on the edges.

The edges of the gloves should be folded inwards. Sweep first, then sew on a line on a typewriter at a distance. one - one and a half centimeters from the edge. Do the same with the lining.

Then turn the mitten inside out and lay the lining on top. Along the edge, lay a line along the perimeter of the mitten. We turn the finished mittens and pull the lace into the item. We make the 2nd mitten in the same way as the first.

Pattern of fur mittens: