Women's fragrances with blackcurrant. Aroma of black currant

Blackcurrant (lat. Ríbes nígrum) is a deciduous shrub, a species of the genus Currant (Ribes) of the monotypic Gooseberry family (Grossulariaceae).

Chemical composition
Blackcurrant berries contain vitamins (vitamins C (up to 400 mg /%), B, P, provitamin A), organic acids (citric and malic), various sugars (mainly glucose and fructose), glycosides and flavonoids, pectin, tannins. , anthocyanins (cyanidin, delphinidin) and nitrogenous substances. The mineral composition of berries (in mg /%): sodium - 32, potassium - 372, calcium - 36, magnesium - 35, phosphorus - 33, iron - 1.3.
The content of ascorbic acid in other parts of the plant is also very high: in leaves (after picking berries) - up to 470 mg /%, in buds - up to 175 mg /%, in buds up to 450 mg /%, in flowers up to 270 mg /%.
Black currant leaves are rich in ascorbic acid, carotene, phytoncides, essential oils.

Pharmacological properties
Currant has diaphoretic, diuretic and fixing properties. Leaves, buds and fruits of black currant have a disinfecting effect associated with essential oils.

Significance and application
Blackcurrant is an ornamental shrub, variegated and with split leaves are known.
Provides honey bees with nectar and pollen. Honey productivity reaches 30 kg per hectare of plantings.

Application in cooking
Currant leaves are used as a spice when pickling vegetables and mushrooms. Young leaves are used for preparing dietary hypoglycemic salads and flavoring kvass, dry leaves - for making tea, added to sauces.
Berries have a sour-sweet taste and a special aroma. Extremely valuable for the abundance of vitamin C in the berries. They are consumed fresh and processed. Kissels, syrups, juices, tinctures, wines, liqueurs, jams, jelly, marshmallows, yogurts, candy fillings are prepared from berries.

Application in medicine
In folk medicine, fresh and dry berries are recommended for gastrointestinal diseases (gastric and duodenal ulcers, gastritis with low acidity, etc.), with cardiac arrhythmias.
Dried leaves are active against dysenteric bacillus and can be used as an adjuvant to increase the activity of antibiotics. Currant leaves are also used as part of vitamin collections with raspberry leaves, lingonberries and rose hips.
Black currant is used for the treatment and prevention of scurvy and in the complex of therapeutic measures for various diseases associated with bleeding.

Black currant in nature and in perfumery.
By: Olga Ikebanova & Elena Vosnaki
BLACKCURRANT IN NATURE
As I sat down to write this article about black currants (which do have a big place in my childhood memories), I noticed that something was missing from my desk. I went to the kitchen and opened the tea cabinet - my "magic" cabinet. There I found blackcurrant leaves, which were collected near St. Petersburg, and brewed a cup of fragrant tea.
While sipping this wonderful drink... I miraculously found a jar of blackcurrant jam in the kitchen as well. Oh, this is such a unique scent! Now, inspired, I can write an article!
The aroma of blackcurrant cannot be confused with any other! It's not like the scents of jasmine or honeysuckle that wrap you in a tight hug as soon as you walk up to a bush. The blackcurrant is very "shy", waiting for the "first step" from you. But as soon as you touch her green leaves, she greets you with a delightful fragrance! Moreover, the aroma comes from all parts of the plant - from leaves, green cuttings, buds, berries ...
Blackcurrant leaves are often added to teas and used to spic up pickles and marinades. Kidneys are excellent material for liqueurs; from them the absolute for perfumery is extracted. Berries are widely used to make juices, jams, liqueurs, ciders, wines and sweets; they are eaten raw and dried.

Blackcurrant is a shrub cultivated in both Europe and Asia. And everywhere it is very popular due to its healing properties. Blackcurrant berries and leaves are high in vitamin C and carotene, a decent percentage of potassium, phosphorus, iron, vitamin B, calcium and essential oils, as well as a wide range of other important nutrients.
Blackcurrant seed oil also contains many health-important substances such as vitamin E, omega-3 fatty acids (alpha-linolenic acid or ALA), and omega-6 gamma-linoleic acid (GLA). All these substances are important for the prevention of cardiovascular diseases.
All parts of the plant can be used to make tinctures that have high anti-inflammatory properties. They are used to treat colds, bronchitis, headaches, stomachaches, etc.

Blackcurrant tea
Here is my recipe for blackcurrant tea: take 3 tablespoons of currant leaves, 1 tablespoon of hibiscus flowers (hibiscus), put it all in a teapot, pour boiling water and wait 5-10 minutes. Enjoy!
BLACKCURRANT IN PERFUME:
Production and aromatic profile

Blackcurrant bud absolute is known in France as "bourgeons de cassis". The absolute is obtained from the Ribes nigrum shrub and its aroma is distinctly different from the synthetic "blackcurrant". The latter is often a rather sugary-sounding ingredient that was quite popular in perfumery in the 1980s and early 1990s. [For example, in Tiffany by Tiffany (perfumer - Jacques Polge) in 1987 and Poeme by Lancome (perfumer - Jacques Cavallier) in 1995.] Compared to the artificial berry aroma of blackcurrant, natural blackcurrant bud absolute is greener and lighter , with a characteristic "cat" nuance.
The characteristic aroma of blackcurrant berries and buds is due to trichomes (glandular hairs) that carry thiols, especially 4-methoxy-2-methylbutane-2-thiol, a component that adds a "cat's urine" note to the fruity top notes. Three different hydroxynitrites also contribute significantly to the aroma profile of blackcurrant. (And in her taste.) But these substances are present, in addition to blackcurrant, and in other plants. These plants, however, are much less commonly used in perfumery. For example, the leaves of the South African buchu are added to blackcurrants if you need to enhance the "cat" effect.

Blackcurrant absolute, as mentioned above, is obtained from the buds of a shrub. (It can be found, for example, in the line of products of the company Biolandes, which produces the absolute in France, in the regions of Le Sen and Valreas.) In addition, distillation of the leaves of the plant is possible to obtain a natural aroma. (This method is used by perfumer Aurelien Guichard.) In addition, blackcurrant extract can be extracted from a paste/slurry made from leaves, berries and shoots; it has a spicy-fruity-woody aroma, but retains freshness, sharp nuances and a slightly phenolic sound.

The most famous example of the use of natural blackcurrant is the Guerlain classic, the 1969 fragrance Chamade, created by Jean Paul Guerlain. Another, but also very special "face" is the natural blackcurrant buds of Van Cleef & Arpels in their First fragrance from 1976 (perfumer - Jean-Claude Ellena).

However, blackcurrant bud absolute can adversely affect the eyes, respiratory tract, and skin, causing irritation or allergies. Because of this, natural blackcurrant absolute should be no more than 1.0000% in a fragrance composition, and no more than 20,0000 ppm in a dietary supplement, for example.

In perfumery, blackcurrant bud absolute is especially often and successfully combined with the following components: allyl amyl glycolate (modern "pineapple" accord with metallic and musky undertones), ambrettolide (light scent of vegetable musk), benzoin (sweet resin), benzyl acetate (fruity-floral scent with a touch of jasmine), buchu leaf oil (to enhance the "cat" note), orange and other citrus oils, cyclamen, aldehydes, beta-damascone (rose-fruity fragrance), beta-ionone (violet accord), ethyl maltol (scent cotton candy), heliotrope, galbanum (bitter green resin), oak moss (a lichen-woody fragrance with bitter inky undertones), jasmine absolute and various raspberry ketones.

Aromas in which a note of blackcurrant buds is felt:
Black Orchid by Tom Ford
Champs Elysees by Guerlain
Gucci Rush II by Gucci
Amethyst by Lalique
Escape by Clavin Klein
Chamade by Guerlain
First by Van Cleef & Arpel
Beautiful by E.Lauder
In Love Again by YSL
Fan di Fendi by Fendi
Rock & Rose by Valentino
Enchanted Forest by The Vagabond Prince

I saw a review of Brocard toilet water from the series "Fragrances of Nature" Blackcurrant and mint.

I thought for a long time where to find them in stock, since I don’t like buying unfamiliar perfumes through IM. I’m afraid to get a pig in a poke. I went to all the inexpensive cosmetic stores in the area. And here he is, the cherished bottle, standing on a shelf in the company of his fellows.

First I tested other flavors of the series, and left the currant for dessert. Of all those presented, only tomato tops came to my liking.

And here it is, the moment of acquaintance with the currant from Brocard... The first breath... And I was gone. It's love... Incredible love, like in youth, like for the first time.

I found myself in the village, very young, not knowing negativity and disappointments. I stand and unconsciously crush the currant leaf in my hand and look at the sunset. And my heart is so light, light, joyful. Some indescribable feeling of anticipation of something unusual, bright.

Shine in the eyes, a lot of energy and ambition. - Decided! I run to the cash register and pay for this magical elixir.

It was all lyrics... Let's take a closer look at our acquisition.

Package.

You know, even with expensive perfumes I don’t always meet such a presentation. It's great! Such a sophisticated vintage design. Just look at her! How lovely. Nice font, soft colors. And the drawings from the botanical atlas delight! I want to sit down and redraw them myself on a piece of paper.

Bottle.

Made from glass. Not plastic, but natural glass. There is nothing superfluous in it. Smooth lines, neat sticker. Perhaps I would only make the cap different to my taste. But it's so wonderful. It adds zest to the bottle. The sprayer is working properly. Produces a very mild cloud of aroma.

Manufacturer's description.

Story. The name "Smorodina" comes from the old Russian "currant" - a strong smell. In folk tales and songs, "black currant" is a symbol of female youth and beauty. In Russian novels and poems, the currant bush in the quiet garden of the estate is a sign of happy childhood memories and home traditions.

Aroma. Spicy, warm, with a cheerful sourness on the tip of the tongue. The sweetness of the berries is light in summer, and the tart aroma of currant leaves gives a wayward note. Currants are set off by fresh herbs, mint and the delicate sweetness of roses. The trail of cozy garden scents is unexpectedly deep, like the mysterious twilight color of ripe berries.

Mood. Currant loves the light and itself seems to absorb the warmth of the July sun. In the aroma of "Black Currant" - the serenity of summer holidays, when all the worries are to collect ripe berries. And figure out what to do with them: bake a pie according to your grandmother's recipe, make jam that will take you straight to summer in winter, or maybe stretch out under a fragrant currant bush and eat a mug of juicy berries right now.

Persistence.

When I bought "Black Currant" I did not even count on good durability because of the price. But she was beyond praise. On the skin 8 hours sounds great. On clothes and hair for 12 hours or more.

Price.

240-250 rubles. These are mere pennies for such a magical fragrance!

My impressions.

To say that I am delighted is to say nothing! I am fascinated by this scent. I put aside all my other fragrances. My husband rarely notices fragrances on me. But he noticed currants. When I brought them home he even used them on himself. I was very surprised, because I had not noticed anything like this before. This fragrance really awakens forgotten memories and emotions. I am ready to use it for a long time, because I love the note of blackcurrant and I always look for it like crazy. And here it is, in its purest form. By the way, I almost do not feel mint.

And a couple of weeks after the first fitting of currants, I realized that I needed more!

And I bought a second pack. By the way, it's not very easy. It's being sold like hot cakes. In both stores where I purchased it - I took the last one. And the rest of the fragrances of the series remained sad.

In general, if you are the same fan of the currant note in perfume, you MUST find this bottle and test it. It is unlikely that you will remain indifferent, and at least get it for the collection. For the price allows you to buy at least 10 bubbles!

We have long been accustomed to the fact that on the shelves in stores you can find a huge selection of luxury perfumes from Yves Saint Laurent, and you, too, will surely find such a bottle. But not everyone knows about the Oriental Collection selective line - this is also YSL perfumery, only more complex and expensive, “for the elite”. We have no doubt that you will appreciate it! We especially liked Supreme Bouquet, an incredibly feminine and sensual fragrance that suits both daytime and evening outings. In its heart is tuberose, which gives it a special sound, and auxiliary notes are pear, pink pepper, ylang-ylang, amber and musk. Mm!..

Price: 13,000 rubles (80 ml)

Sunshine by Amouage

Amouage fragrances are already a symbol of luxury, and they are certainly attractive. The novelty Sunshine combines creamy accords of almonds, tart notes of blackcurrant and delicate flowers - jasmine, magnolia, osmanthus. With such a fragrance, you can conquer not only a man, but the whole world - you will definitely feel very confident.

Popular

Price: 30 800 rubles (100 ml)

01 Molecule

Molecule has already become a legendary perfume - girls, if they have not bought the coveted bottle, then dream about it. This fragrance is very difficult to describe, because it is absolutely individual and reveals itself on each person in its own way. Perfumer Geza Schoen created a unique woody-musky flair - many believe that it simply drives men crazy and, most importantly, blends harmoniously with the natural scent of the skin. In short, the bottle is definitely worth the money.

Price: 12 650 rubles (100 ml)

Killing Me Slowly by Kilian

Perfume with an intriguing name "Kill Me Slowly" will appeal to fans of rich, but soft, silky scents. This is a very sensual and intimate flair, which consists of notes of blackcurrant, lychee, Bulgarian rose, iris and Madagascar vanilla. The aroma is complex, rich, but at the same time delicate ... For a romantic date, it's just perfect!

Price: 13,500 rubles (100 ml)

Fleur Narcotique by Ex Nihilo

After reading the name of this fragrance, we were, of course, very intrigued! Fleur Narcotique (can be translated as "narcotic flower") from the young Parisian brand Ex Nihilo will appeal to girls of a daring disposition - you still need to dare to do this! In fact, it really is addictive - such an interesting and enchanting smell is enclosed in a bottle. Let's try to describe in words: the top notes are bergamot, lychee and peach, the heart notes are jasmine, peony and orange blossom, and the base notes are woody notes, oakmoss and musk. In a word, the composition is intricate and intriguing. Narcotic!

Price: 23,000 rubles (100 ml)

Jasmin Angelique by Atelier Cologne

"Angelic Jasmine" is a "green" fragrance that will suit both you and your boyfriend at the same time. And by the way, it is not at all like the sweet jasmine we are used to - the composition is much more complex and interesting. Help Egyptian jasmine notes of figs, galbanum, incense and white amber. It seems to us that eau de toilette is perfect as the main perfume for every day - it will be appropriate even in the morning at the office.

Price: 12,600 rubles (100 ml)

Oud Palao by Diptyque

Rich notes of oud wood are now at the height of fashion! So the perfume brand Diptyque has released its variation on the theme of oud - the Oud Palao fragrance is simply incredible ... Woody, with notes of Bulgarian rose, vanilla, tobacco and patchouli. And, best of all, they, again, can be used with your loved one!

Price: 11 250 rubles (100 ml)

Cannibale by Serge Lutens

Don't let this strange and slightly intimidating name of the fragrance scare you. The famous perfumer Serge Lutens is still an entertainer - he comes up with such names for his masterpieces that you definitely want to try it, if only for the sake of interest. In fact, Cannibale is a very rich woody-oriental fragrance that will appeal to lovers of the exotic and something unusual. Luten himself hints that a woman using this perfume "wants to eat." Agree, no one expects a more stunning effect from perfume!

Price: 7900 rubles (50 ml)

Amber and Roses by Mancera

A great option for the evening was released by the Mancera brand - if you love the scent of a rose, then you will definitely like it. Of course, not everything is so simple. In addition to the amber and rose declared in the name of the perfume, you will hear notes of white musk, Indian jasmine and Sicilian lemon. Like all Mancera fragrances, this one is very intense, so don't overdo it before going out.

Price: 14,400 rubles (100 ml)

Larmes Du Desert by Atelier Des Ors

The Atelier Des Ors brand has just come to Russia, but we have already managed to fall in love with it. The name of the fragrance, which we advise you to take a closer look at, is translated as "Tears of the Desert". It reflects the perfume traditions of the Middle East, which means it will appeal to lovers of spicy, oriental fragrances. Notes: incense, cypress, patchouli, cedar, amber... You definitely won't go unnoticed!

Price: 24,000 rubles (100 ml)

SoOud Ilham

And again fashionable oud notes! This oriental fragrance sounds very rich, and at the same time incredibly feminine. Oud is often associated with woody fragrances (and even more often with men's perfumes), but in this case, pink pepper, ginger, musk and patchouli create a sweet, festive sound. It seems to us that the fragrance can be more likely attributed to the evening — it will be perfectly combined with a cocktail dress.

Price: 16,500 rubles (100 ml)

You can't even imagine how many fragrances are dedicated to blackcurrant, and most of them are oriental and evening. And he wants to express his admiration for this beautiful Russian berry. This berry is native to Europe and Siberia. If you remember the recommendations of nutritionists - to eat fruits and vegetables from your region, then the currant is the name of the berry that we need.

Currant - the name is purely Russian, from the old Russian "morodch", that is, "strong smell", or "currant" - to emit a strong smell. A fragrance recognizable from childhood, from the grandmother's garden. Without currants, as well as without lilacs, it would be impossible to imagine a single Russian estate.

In every garden or in the country, and now there is more than one bush of this plant. We appreciate it for tasty and healing berries, for fragrant and sweet jam, which pleases especially in winter. And often, behind the familiar and familiar appearance, we simply do not notice it. But the currant is a very decorative bush that can decorate our garden, but perhaps only a garden. Currant can decorate our life with its beauty and fragrant.

Recently, among perfumers and fans of perfumery, interest in fruit and berry notes has especially increased, which can make the fragrance bright and cheerful, charming and mysterious. And among the many berry and fruit shades, blackcurrant enjoys special love, in which not only berries, but also leaves and stems have a thick and rich aroma.

The aroma of currant has a passionate and rich tone that can be found in the compositions of any brand. The fragrance plays on the skin, gives rise to unique shades that sound like a mysterious melody of feelings and passion.

In what perfumes can we find this fragrant berry?

Acqua Santa fragrance introduced the German niche brand Linari, created by perfumer Maurice Roucel. An oriental floral fragrance by Brecourt called Agaressence, with a surprisingly sensual character, created by perfumer Emilie Bouge, in which blackcurrant notes are placed at the very beginning of the melody.

And Tom Ford presented in 2007 a romantic, mysterious and seductive floral-oriental fragrance. Black Orchid Voile de Fleur, in 2010 he also created the floral-woody-musky perfume Azure Lime, and the famous Creed perfume house created the Aventus fragrance, dedicated to Napoleon Bonaparte, who is admired by France. All these aromas are brought together by one of the main notes - the note of black currant.

American perfume brand Ineke presented Chemical Bonding; and the American brand Tossa - a perfume composition dedicated to the Egyptian, fragrance Cleopatra; floral unisex perfume Donna– Italian Lorenzo Villoresi, fragrances Aube Pashmina and Myrrhiad by Huitieme Art Parfums. All of these completely different fragrances carry a magical note of blackcurrant in their composition.

Created in 2008 by Pierre Bourdon for Romea d'Ameor, an oriental floral fragrance The Mistresses of Louis XIV became a true masterpiece. Its rich composition delights with its versatility. It has notes of melon, galbanum, black currant, jasmine, lily, narcissus, carnation, greenery, lily of the valley, iris, rose, woods, amber, sweet apricot and musk, which make you enjoy the sweet and mysterious song of flowers and berries.

In the eau de parfum, designed by Armani himself, the bright and juicy aroma of currant echoes with the delicate notes of May rose.

Yves Saint Laurent Baby Doll- the aroma is sweet, warm and perky, the fragrance of which is opened by blackcurrant, orange, apple and pineapple, in the heart of the fragrance - notes of rose, freesia, heliotrope and lily of the valley, complete the perfume melody of cedar, sandalwood, tonka bean and vanilla.

And the famous brand Rance in 2005 introduced the fragrance Rance Josephine. A fragrance for a passionate and self-confident woman endowed with an independent character.

Rance Josephine- a fragrance mysterious and at the same time aristocratic, dedicated to femininity and beauty. The fragrance sounds either with floral-honey shades, enveloping with a dense veil, or with transparent, sweetish powdery notes, giving a mystery that remains unsolved.

The composition contains a colorful bouquet in which rose, bergamot, hawthorn, ylang-ylang, jasmine, hyacinth, lilac, peony, iris, peach, geranium, violet leaves, carnation, galbanum, blackcurrant, sandalwood, vanilla, amber, musk and ebony.

The list of blackcurrant fragrances goes on and on, and the fragrances are sensual, elegant, sophisticated. They sound poetry, love, happiness and mystery. They are dedicated to women.

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Blackcurrant aroma properties.

The aroma of blackcurrant is fresh, grassy, ​​slightly minty, fruity, with woody notes, balsamic. This smell relieves stress and tension, is used in the fight against depression and long-term emotional discomfort.

Combined with red orange, bergamot, clove, vanilla, ylang-ylang, cedar, cardamom, mimosa, carrot seeds, rosewood, chamomile, sage, violet.

Essential oil.

The essential oil (absolute) of blackcurrant is obtained from the leaves and buds of the plant by steam distillation, as well as solvent extraction. It is found in the glands that cover the underside of the leaves. It is thanks to the oil that blackcurrant leaves are used in pickling and marinades.

But every perfumer has his own secrets of obtaining a scent. For example, a spicy rich fruity aroma with a hint of wood is obtained using buds, leaves, shoots and berries.

It should be noted that black currant is the most fragrant of all types of currant, and especially its buds. In perfumery they are called "bourgeons de cassis". And this perennial shrub got its Russian name from the word "currant", which in Old Russian meant "strong smell".

The smell of currant in perfumery.

The aroma of blackcurrant in perfumery compositions is not uncommon. He is familiar to everyone since childhood and, perhaps, that is why he has become so loved and recognizable, and perfumes with him attract more and more fans. Despite its modesty, it often sounds in the most expensive and prestigious brands. In the collection of every perfumer there is at least one creation with this note.

And one of the first to use the smell of blackcurrant Jean-Paul Guerlain in his "Chamade".

Usually this smell is attributed to fruity notes when they want to convey the aroma of berries. Or use its grassy-woody shade with minty echoes. The absolute is often used in middle notes and also as a scent fixative.

In contrast to the light, playful mood of red currant, black is more noble, rich and bright. Her passionate notes turn out to be even oriental perfumes.

emotional impact.

The aroma of blackcurrant soothes, relieves stress, helps with depression. Therefore, in autumn and winter it is so pleasant to open a jar of currant jam or brew tea from the leaves.

medicinal and cosmetic properties.

Blackcurrant is one of the most useful berries. Enough 20 berries a day to raise the protective functions of the body. It improves metabolic processes, increases immunity, restores strength.

There are a lot of phytoncides in the oil, it is a good general tonic. During the period of cold weather and slush, it can be added to tea. The flavonoids quercetin, myricetin, isoquercetin, kempferol contained in the oil treat blood vessels, bleeding gums, and are also distinguished by their antioxidant properties.

Blackcurrant essential oil does not irritate the skin, is not phototoxic. In the food industry, the absolute is used as a flavor enhancer. In pharmaceutical - for the treatment of anorexia.

However, essential oils are not easy to find commercially. Therefore, for the treatment of dermatitis, as well as colds, cardiovascular diseases, gastritis, a decoction of leaves and buds is used.

Also, blackcurrant essential oil should not be confused with the base oil, which is extracted from the seeds and pomace of berries. It is no less valuable than essential oil, and is used mainly in cosmetology and the pharmaceutical industry.