Perfume oils: purpose, composition, use.

What is the difference between perfume, eau de parfum, eau de toilette and cologne, what do they consist of? What is better to buy and why?

___________________________

Perfume manufacturers most often produce each fragrance in several versions..

As a rule, this is:
# perfume (parfum, extrait);
# eau de parfum or toilet perfume (eau de parfum, parfum de toilette, esprit de parfum);
# toilet water (eau de toilette); # cologne (eau de cologne);
# perfumed haze (body mist, voile, brume, parfume pour le corps), etc. All fragrant products consist of a fragrant concentrate (fragrans), alcohol, water and dyes and differ only in their proportional ratio.
# Perfume contains the largest percentage of aromatic composition. The share of odorous concentrate is from 20 to 30 percent, and sometimes more. It is dissolved in very pure alcohol (96% vol.). The high content of the extract provides the perfume with much more durability and strength compared to other types of perfume products. But this is the most expensive type of aromatic liquid.
# The perfumed water or toilet spirits - the most popular type of perfumery production today. It ranks second in terms of strength, the share of odorous oils is from 15 to 25 percent. As a rule, eau de parfum is always in a spray bottle, which is convenient for use and transportation. This is the best perfume replacement.
# Toilet water has a share of odorous substances from 4 - 20 percent. She is in great demand and her smell is more discreet and light. Many fragrances exist only in this concentration (L Eau par Kenzo, Cool Water Woman, Panouge products and many others). Almost all men's perfumery is represented by eau de toilette. Men's perfumes are often produced under this heading.
# Cologne in the traditional sense of the word is the least concentrated perfume product. Fragrant fragrance is 3 - 10 percent and is dissolved in 70 percent alcohol. Sometimes, under the brand of cologne, they mean the same thing as toilet water, but this term is used to highlight products for men. Now it is clear what is common and what differences exist between products that at first glance differ only in price, but have the same packaging.

fl is fluid (liquid)
fl oz - fluid ounce (unit of measure).
1 oz liquid eng. = 28.413 ml (cm3)
1 oz. liquid amer. = 29.56 ml (cm3)

Perfume, eau de parfum and eau de toilette are distinguished by the durability of aromas and the concentration of aromatic oils.

AT spirits the base notes of the fragrance are more pronounced. The concentration of aromatic oils in perfume 15-22% (according to the standards of the French Committee for Perfumery). Durability of fragrances in perfumes: Citrus aromas - 4-6 hours Floral aromas - 6-8 hours Amber aromas - more than 8 hours

AT perfume water heart notes are more pronounced. The concentration of aromatic oils in perfume water 12-13% (according to the standards of the French Committee for Perfumery). Perfume perfume water - 3-4 hours.

AT toilet water the top notes are more pronounced. The concentration of aromatic oils in toilet water 10% (according to the standards of the French Committee for Perfumery). Persistence of toilet water - 3 hours.
___________________________

And which is better - when the number is more or less? Or does it not matter?
This is just a conversion of the volume of your bottle from milliliters to ounces :) The larger the bottle, the larger the number.

The influence of aromas on the physical and emotional state of a person has long been known. Incense was used by the ancient Sumerians and Egyptians. It is believed that the Greeks were the first to flavor olive oil by adding aromatic substances derived from plants to it. They also created a classification of oils, dividing them into those that can relax, tone or excite. And only much later did perfume oils appear as a household chemical product.

What is the difference

For millennia, aromatic substances have been obtained by pressing, distilling and extracting plant material. Literally everything went on:

• roots;
• flowers;
• leaves;
• stems;
• resins;
• fruit.

In this way, essential oils were obtained, which today are sometimes mistakenly identified with perfumery. However, they are not the same. The main difference lies, firstly, in the raw materials used, and secondly, in the manufacturing method.

So, perfume oil, also called "perfume", is a synthetic product used for the production of cosmetics, perfumes and household chemicals. Essential oils are obtained exclusively from natural raw materials. Based on this, it is clear that the cost of synthetic aromatic substances is much lower than vegetable ones.

Composition of perfume oil

Colorless liquids with a low level of viscosity, which are based on various types of alcohols, are obtained by chemical synthesis. This is how oils used to make soaps, shampoos, perfumes, lotions, colognes, lipsticks, detergents, and food additives can be defined. The higher the concentration of such substances, the higher the price of the product.

Ultimately, the fragrance of perfume oil depends on the alcohol used to produce it. For example:

• geraniol is equivalent to the smell of a rose;
• citronellol - floral fresh aroma;
• farnesol - lily of the valley;
• menthol - mint;
• octanol-1 - strong citrus aroma;
• santalol - the smell of sandalwood.

Main categories

Depending on the smell, perfume oils are classified as follows:

1. Citrus fruits: mandarin, grapefruit, orange, lemon.
2. Floral: rose, jasmine, lavender.
3. Woody: camphor, patchouli, cedar, sandalwood.
4. Wine glass: fern, oak moss.
5. Leather: honey, tobacco, woody scent.
6. Oriental: musk, spices, amber, vanilla.

A wide variety is the main plus of synthetic oils. In addition to analogues of natural odors, among them there are many that simply do not exist in the list of natural essential fragrances.

Application rules

Today, perfume oils are used not only for the production of eau de toilette or cream, but also as independent body perfumes. Such products have millions of adherents all over the world because of their durability and richness. It is distinguished from perfumes by the instantaneous and complete disclosure of the aroma immediately after application. As a rule, oils are produced in roll-on bottles, which, on the one hand, is very convenient, and on the other hand, allows you to control the saturation of the smell.

To keep the fragrance for a long time, you must follow simple rules:

1. Apply perfume oil only to washed skin.
2. Never rub, because in this way its composition is destroyed.
3. Do not apply on clothing made of synthetic materials.
4. Do not store oil in the refrigerator, in the light or in the bathroom.
5. Just a few drops are enough to create your own look. Even the most luxurious fragrance should not follow you in a dense trail.

Synonymous with passion

Perfume oil with aphrodisiacs has a stimulating effect. The fact that certain aromas can arouse interest in the opposite sex was known even by the ancient Greeks. However, in addition to increasing physical attraction, aphrodisiac oil helps to reduce anxiety, stress, depression, cheer up, get emotional satisfaction.

But still, its main purpose is to stimulate passion. Not all odors in this regard affect men and women equally. The strong floor "responds" to the aroma:

• patchouli;
• sandalwood;
• pines;
• cinnamon;
• myrrh;
• rue;
• vetiver.

Women, on the contrary, are attracted to the smell:

• bergamot;
• rosemary;
• geraniums;
• jasmine;
• ylang-ylang;
• neroli;
• petitgrain.

But the smell of a rose is equally exciting for both women and men. You can use pure aphrodisiac fragrances or create your own compositions based on the combination of several oils.

DIY

In recent years, homemade cosmetics and perfumes have become very popular. Natural ingredients in such products are combined with synthetic ones. Perfume essential oil, for which it was used, is expensive. Therefore, in order to reduce the cost of production, craftswomen often use synthetic fragrances.

In soap making or the manufacture of creams, oil aromatic substances are used in small quantities. Most often, any one flavor is taken for this purpose. Another thing is spirits. Here you need to understand the basic, middle and upper notes, as well as be able to combine them. However, it is not difficult to learn how to do this, the main thing is to set a goal to create your own unique and inimitable fragrance!

Those who constantly use perfume, probably noticed that some fragrances have amazing durability and can be felt even a week after they were applied. The smell of other perfume compositions disappears after one or two days, and some aromas disappear after a few hours, leaving no trace. What is the reason for such an ethereal inconsistency in perfumery?

The answer to the mystery lies in the percentage of aromatic oils, thanks to which the perfume is divided into five main classes:

They have the highest saturation with aromatic oils - from ten to fifteen percent. This provides them with the stability of the aromatic composition and its saturation - it is enough to apply only a few drops of such a perfume to the body so that its fragrance envelops the owner of the perfume from head to toe, leaving behind a thick plume. As a rule, the aroma of natural perfumes lasts from three to five days, and this type of perfumery is preferred by brands specializing in the production of heavy deep fragrances - Clive Christian, Guerlain, Christian Dior.

• perfumed water

The content of aromatic components in eau de parfum, which is usually labeled "eau de parfum" or "parfum de toilette", also ranges from ten to fifteen percent, but it includes specially softened water, which makes the smell of this type of perfumery less persistent. . Perfumery water is a favorite type of product of all manufacturers without exception, including Lancome, Givenchy, Hugo Boss, Lacoste. And it is this type of perfumery that the vast majority of consumers prefer today.

• toilet water

Issued with the mark "eau de toilette". It contains from four to ten percent of aromatic oils. The smell of such a perfume, as a rule, is quite light and discreet, so products of this class have long been the hallmark of brands such as Salvatore Ferragamo, Hermes, Giorgio Armani, which produce strong fragrances.

• Cologne

As for colognes, there is an opinion about their strength and durability, as well as about belonging exclusively to the masculine type of perfumery. However, this is not true. The content of aromatic oils in this type of perfume is only one and a half to three percent. Therefore, colognes are usually chosen by men and women who do not tolerate harsh saturated aromas. Today, this class of perfume can be found in the collections of brands such as Paco Rabanne, Marina de Bourbon and Chanel.

• scented water

The lowest content of fragrant oils - less than one percent - has fragrant water, which is often marked by the manufacturer with the inscription "eau parfumee". That is why it can often be found in children's and teenage collections of fragrances from Bvlgari, FM Group, Biopha Laboratories.

Quite often, perfume manufacturers, wanting to satisfy the demand of all categories of users for a particular fragrance, release it in several categories. So, "Incanto" from Salvatore Ferragamo can be purchased both in the form of perfume and in the form of toilet water, "Yujin Amore" from Ella Mikao are available in the form of perfumery and toilet water, and the famous fragrance "Coco" from Chanel is represented by perfumes, perfume water and cologne.

The destiny of a fashion designer is temporality. And spirits are eternal.
Pierre Dinan

Alcohol base for perfumes. Units of measure, compound, formulas. Creation of cologne

Cologne is traditionally made only on an alcohol basis, namely, they use pure medical alcohol, 96%.

Since alcohol does not mix well with jojoba oil or fractionated coconut oil, 100% undiluted essential oil should be used in the fragrance composition.

In cologne and toilet water, alcohol can be diluted with distilled water, entering from 5 to 10%. Do not add more water, as the solution may become cloudy and exfoliate.

Incredible scope for creativity is opened by natural hydrolates.

Hydrolats (floral waters) are distilled water enriched with essential oils.
Most of them, it is worth noting, are organic.

To get started, you can purchase:

• pink water
• neroli
• lavender
• verbena
• linden flowers
• rosemary

There is a little trick in the manufacture of alcohol perfumes. If we make oil perfumes or solid ones from wax, the structure of the fragrance is stable and you can immediately understand whether you like the final result, or if you need to correct it.

Oil perfumes "ripen" for about a week, while the aroma changes slightly, and solid perfumes and wax-based lipsticks are ready immediately. Alcoholic perfumes require aging for "ripening", from two to four weeks. If the result after 2-4 weeks is not satisfactory, then the inevitability of adjusting the formula, and waiting for the same amount more, can greatly discourage a novice perfumer. Therefore, make an oil-based training formula, bring it to shine and perfection, and only then create alcohol perfumes with a more predictable result.

Approximate units of measurement of essential oils:

• 0.5 ml = 10 drops
• 1 ml = 20 drops
• 1.5 ml = 30 drops
• 2 ml = 40 drops
• 2.5 ml = 1/2 teaspoon or 50 drops
• 3 ml = 60 drops
• 3.5 ml = 70 drops
• 4 ml = 80 drops
• 4.5 ml = 90 drops
• 5 ml = 1 teaspoon or 100 drops
• 10 ml = 2 teaspoons or 200 drops
• 20 ml = 1 tablespoon or 400 drops

It should be noted that these calculations are approximate, since oils have different degrees of viscosity and density, however, they are quite suitable for making aromatic mixtures and perfumes at home, and not in industrial ones.

Now you should learn how to calculate the concentration of a perfume composition for different purposes.

For 10 ml base - oil or alcohol:

5% - 0.5 ml essential oils
10% - 1 ml essential oils
15% - 1.5 ml essential oils
20% - 2 ml essential oils
25% - 2.5 ml essential oils
30% - 3 ml essential oils

Example. To get 10 ml of cologne, should be poured from a 10 ml container - 0.5 ml of alcohol, and, accordingly, add 0.5 ml of essential oils back. Or immediately pour (with a Pasteur pipette or syringe) into a beautiful atomizer 9.5 ml of alcohol, and then add 0.5 ml of the compound.
Compound is liquid concentrated composition, from a mixture of aromatic materials, in our case, natural (natural) origin. It can be essential oils, concretes, absolutes.

Now the formula (compound composition), in 0.5 ml drops (10 drops):

• Bergamot - 4
• Petitgrain - 2
• Lavender - 2
• Cedar - 1
• Rose - 1

As mentioned above, first make a mixture based on oil diluted by 10%. Study carefully, try to play with the composition, if there is no oil from the list, add what is, from the same group (citruses, flowers, etc.) carefully observing the proportions. If everything went well, make a compound of pure undiluted essential oil and alcohol, while thoroughly shaking the mixture.
So, after 2 weeks, your cologne is ready., it remains to filter it with paper coffee filters. This is to ensure that it is clear, free of haze, and to remove vegetable wax and other particles that may compromise the stability of the composition.

Create your own unique formulas for the following colognes:

• Male
• Female
• "For two"
• fantasy
• Floral
• Citrus
• Woody
• Herbal
• Spicy
• Earthy

Start with a simple, citrus cologne, gradually moving to floral, herbal and others. Think and write down what oils and hydrolats will help you cope with the task, then, make a compound, write down successful formulas, and, finally, put your Energizers to infuse. Do not forget that the perfume container should be made of dark glass, and the ripening place should be dry, dark and cool. It does not make sense to smell alcohol-based fragrances for the first week, then you can open the bottle and, if necessary, correct the composition. Write down your observations, wishes, recommendations in a diary, this is an invaluable personal experience.

Soon you will be able to evaluate each of the works separately, and feel how different the fragrances turned out to be, their characters, stories of creation. The fragrance of natural aromas affects us like vitamins, or freshly picked berries from the garden. Passion for "live" perfumery gives us a great mood, cheerfulness, and, most importantly, awareness of our uniqueness. Craft perfumes are not for everyone, they are exceptionally original and unique.

Compare your "live" perfumes with modern synthetic ones, try to find differences. What are their advantages?
If possible, sniff natural rose oil and ready-made synthetic perfumes that mimic the scent of a rose, such as:
Bulgarian Rose, Demeter
Rose Jam Lush
Rose, Marks and Spencer
Une Rose, Frederic Malle
Sa Majeste la Rose, Serge Lutens
Aqua Allegorias - Rosa Magnifica, Guerlain

Try modern and vintage fragrances, study the literature on the art of perfumery, follow the news in this field. Expand your horizons through good theatrical performances, ballet, musical concerts, fiction - this is extremely inspiring and contributes to new knowledge, skills and abilities.

Aroma concentration is an important concept in perfumery. So, it is in it that lies the answer to the question of how toilet water differs from perfumes and eau de parfum. This refers to the concentration of aromatic components in a solution, which is usually ethanol or a mixture of standard and water. In the perfume industry, it is customary to distinguish four main categories of fragrances, but there are also secondary concentrations.

Perfume (Extrait de Parfum)

Perfumes with the highest concentration of aromatic substances - from 15 to 40 percent - belong to the category of perfumes. According to the International Fragrance Association (IFRA), more often the concentration of pure aroma in perfumes is closer to 20 percent, not 40. Perfume brands produce perfumes in very small bottles, they cost more than perfumes and eau de toilettes of the same type. High concentration is the key to the durability of the fragrance - despite the slightly muffled sound, the perfume stays on the skin longer than other perfumes.
Historically, fragrances were produced in the concentration of perfumes: perfumers mixed aromatic substances, checked the final sound, and then diluted to a lower concentration.

Eau de Parfum (EDP)

This is the most popular type of perfumery products. The concentration of aromatic components in eau de parfum is from 10 to 20 percent (usually about 15), the aromas sound very intense and have good durability. The category Eau de Parfum appeared in the perfume industry quite recently - in the 80s of the last century. The first eau de parfum, originally released in this concentration, and not in the form of perfume, was Chanel Coco, created by Jacques Polger. The Polje fragrance was developed specifically for the younger generation, who craved an intense, bright, noticeable perfume from afar.

Toilet water (Eau de Toilette, EDT)

The Eau de Toilette category includes perfumes with a concentration of aromatic substances of 5-15 percent. Eau de toilette appeared before perfumed and was originally intended for people who could not afford expensive perfumes, that is, it was a "budget" version of fragrances. However, over time, toilet water almost surpassed the original perfume in popularity.
Perfume houses began to produce bottles of different sizes, thus facilitating the choice, the convenient design of bottles with a sprayer also played a role, making the use of perfumes more convenient. Today, Eau de Toilette is primarily a light daytime version of Extrait de Parfum, cheapness is usually not a fundamental factor for perfume lovers.

Eau de Cologne

Cologne was born after the perfume revolution of the late 19th century, associated with the beginning of the use of synthetic ingredients. Encouraged by the breakthrough in the industry, perfume brands have started producing new, lighter versions of their fragrances. The concentration of aromatic components in Eau de Cologne traditionally does not exceed 5 percent. Colognes come in large bottles and are usually more affordable than more concentrated perfumes.

Other concentrations

In addition to the four main types of perfume and cologne, there are other concentrations, but they are much less common.

Esprit de Parfum. A very rare category, average between perfume and eau de parfum. The concentration of aromatic substances in Esprit de Parfum is almost 30 percent. The term was used mainly by Christian Dior during the 1980s.

Perfume Mist, Eau Sans Alcohol, Voile de Parfum, Brume de Parfum, Eau Parfumee. All these terms refer to the same type of perfume products - the so-called "perfumed haze". This is the lightest version of perfumery with a concentration of aromatic substances of 3-8 percent. Perfumed haze usually contains no alcohol.