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Schemes of gradation of patterns of women's clothing by size. The essence of the process of gradation patterns

2.1. Set groups of sizes and heights for which patterns will be graded. For example, the basic size-height 164-88-94 is proposed to be graded into two large and two smaller sizes, i.e. from 80 to 96, for one (two) larger and smaller heights, i.e. from 158 to 170.

2.2. Perform the gradation of patterns in the following sequence:

establish and designate points of gradation;

from each gradation point of the original size, set aside in the direction of the coordinates of the gradation value ΔX z Г j , ΔY j Г j for large sizes and gradations with the opposite sign - ( ΔX z Г j), - (ΔY z Г j) - for smaller sizes) in accordance with the selected gradation scheme (Fig. 29.1-29.8).;

For greater accuracy of gradation, increments at design points should be set aside vertically and horizontally immediately for a group of sizes;

The final points of the graduated dimensions are found at the intersection of perpendiculars restored from points corresponding to k ΔX z Г j, k·ΔY j Г j ;

connect the corresponding points of the k-th size and get the contour of the details of the clothes k- that size;

Gradation is carried out separately according to size and height. First, you should perform a gradation in size; then the base (average) size is graded according to height. Students can perform gradation according to the growth of only the base size. It is allowed to perform gradation of patterns by size and height on the combined drawing.

Move each design point of the template horizontally and

3. Verify the quality of the execution of patterns of structures obtained by grading. It should be taken into account that:

1. transitions from size to size must be uniform;

2. The lengths of sections of parts of extreme dimensions (smaller and larger) connected in the product are compared with each other, compared with similar lengths in the base size;

3. measurements of the lengths of slices are performed along the lines of connection of these slices, i.e. along the seam lines;

4. slices having different lengths in the base size should remain equal in the extreme sizes;

5. The shear fit provided for in the IMC must be varied so that the fit rate remains constant;

6. According to the collar of the set-in sleeve, the average landing rate and the rate in the areas between the notches are controlled. in order to maintain the landing standards in sections, it is allowed to change the direction of the gradation diagonals at the points of the contour notches.

Test questions:

1. What is the purpose of grading patterns?

2. What methods of gradation do you know? in what cases do they apply?

3. Name the advantages and disadvantages of the ray method of gradation.

4. Name the advantages and disadvantages of the ray grouping method.

5. Name the advantages and disadvantages of the proportional calculation method of gradation.

6. Name the initial gradation lines for shoulder and waist clothing. What are they needed for?

7. What points are called initial points of gradation? constructive gradation points?

8. What is the interdimensional difference between adjacent clothing numbers?

9. For which cuts of parts is the necessary conjugation of lengths not ensured when they are graded in size? What, in your opinion, are the reasons for this and what suggestions could you give on changing the gradation scheme?

10. According to what design parameters of the product, during gradation, there is no correspondence between the variability of the dimensional features of the figures? How will this affect the quality of the finished product?

11. What is your assessment of the studied gradation methodology, and what suggestions can you give for its improvement?

12. What dimensional features of the figure have the greatest and least interdimensional and intergrowth variability?

Report requirements:

In the report on laboratory work No. 28, the following should be presented:

Objective;

Sketches of gradation schemes for the main patterns of products with set-in sleeves.

Drawings of the gradation of the patterns of the female (male) shoulder product in terms of size and height in M 1: 1.

Figure 28.1 - Scheme of gradation of the main details of women's clothing

Figure 28.2 - Scheme of gradation of the main details of women's clothing

Figure 28.3 - Scheme of gradation of the main details of women's clothing

Figure 28.4 - Scheme of gradation of the main details of women's clothing

Figure 28.5 - Scheme of gradation of patterns for the details of the sleeves of women's clothing

Figure 28.6 - Scheme of gradation of the main details of women's clothing

Figure 28.7 - Scheme of gradation of the main details of a men's jacket

Figure 28.8 - Scheme of gradation of the main details of the men's coat

Lab #29

Gradation of patterns (templates) of details of shoulder clothing
with raglan sleeves and one-piece

Objective: acquaintance with the features of the gradation of patterns of clothing details of non-standard designs; mastering the methodology for grading patterns of product details with one-piece sleeves and raglan sleeves.

Benefits and tools: training posters, patterns of the main details of products with one-piece sleeves and raglan sleeves, graph paper, drawing accessories .

Literature:

8. A.P. Andreeva, U.B. Deryabicheva and others. Illustrated manual for the production of outerwear patterns. Textbook / - St. Petersburg, SPGUDT, 1998, p. 83-87.

9. S.V. Kurenova, N.Yu. Saveliev. Clothing Design, Tutorial / Series "Textbooks, tutorials". - Rostov n / a: Phoenix, 2003, p. 352-355, 412-421.

1. The study of the features of the gradation of patterns of clothing details of non-standard designs.

2. Performing gradation of patterns of product details with one-piece sleeves and raglan sleeves in terms of size and height.

3. Verification of the quality of execution of structures obtained by grading.

Methodical instructions:

The primary design of the patterns of the model, called the original, is developed only for one average size and height in the weight and age group for which the model is recommended. Patterns of parts of other sizes and heights are obtained by proportionally reducing or increasing the linear dimensions of patterns of medium size and height. Changing the size and shape of the patterns is carried out according to certain technical rules, called technical reproduction(or serial production) patterns.
Technical reproduction of patterns is carried out according to size and height.
The transition from size to size is carried out by means of interdimensional increments, which give to the cuts of the patterns of the details of the original of medium size and height.
Technical reproduction of patterns by height is carried out with the help of intergrowth increments, which are given to the cuts of patterns of parts of each size.
With correctly found increments, the contours of the patterns of all sizes and heights should not be distorted in comparison with the original.

Patterns of variability of anthropometric dimensional features as the basis for technical reproduction of patterns

The change in the size of clothing details is associated with a change in the size of figures of a typical physique. Therefore, the rules for determining the size of clothing details of various sizes and heights should be based on the patterns of change in the subordinate dimensional signs of the body when the leading dimensional signs of chest girth and height change, according to which the clothes are numbered.
From the patterns considered at the beginning it follows that a closer relationship exists between the dimensional features of one direction: transverse - with chest girth, longitudinal - with growth.
However, due to the linear dependence of the subordinate dimensional features on both leading ones, with a change in chest girth (with the same height), not only the transverse, but also some change in the longitudinal dimensional features occur. And vice versa, with a change in height (with the same girth of the chest), not only the longitudinal dimensional characteristics change, but also to some extent the transverse ones.
Based on these patterns, when reproducing patterns of clothing parts in size (with the same growth), the change in the linear dimensions of the parts is carried out not only in the transverse direction, but also in the longitudinal direction. As a result, the design points of the parts move in the drawing along the diagonal of the rectangle, the sides of which are transverse and longitudinal increments to the given size of the part.
When reproducing patterns of clothing parts by height (with the same chest girth), the linear dimensions of the parts are changed only in the longitudinal direction, neglecting transverse size increments due to their relatively small size.
The theory of reproduction of patterns has been developed very little, therefore, in practice, various practical methods of technical reproduction of patterns are usually used.

Methods of technical reproduction of patterns

Three methods of technical reproduction of patterns are known: grouping, beam and proportional-calculated. A detailed analysis of them is given in.
Grouping method is reduced to obtaining patterns of clothing parts of various sizes as a result of combining two sets of patterns (middle and adjacent or middle and extreme).
After matching the patterns, the design points of the same name are connected by straight lines. The straight lines are divided into the number of parts corresponding to the number of intermediate sizes (Fig. V-45, a) and the increments from size to size are determined. By connecting the points on the straight lines, the contours of the patterns of intermediate sizes are obtained.
The main disadvantage of the grouping method is that it is necessary to build drawings not in one, but in two dimensions. The grouping method is used to determine the increments in the reproduction of patterns in other ways.
Beam method rarely used at present.
The essence of the ray method is that from a certain point (focus) straight lines (rays) are drawn through all the design points of the part. From the contour of the part along these rays, increments are plotted (Fig. V-45, b).
Based on the newly found points, the contours of parts of larger and smaller sizes are drawn.
This method is the simplest, but the least accurate. Its accuracy is affected, first of all, by the choice of the position of the starting point (focus). At different positions of the focus, the direction of the rays turns out to be different, the constructive points of the patterns are displaced, and their contours are distorted.
The ray method can be used in the reproduction of patterns of individual parts of headgear and corsetry, the size increments of which occur in the radial direction (Fig. V-46).
Proportional calculation method received the widest distribution in the design of clothing both in our country and abroad.
The essence of the proportional calculation method is that the displacement of the structural points of the patterns is carried out along the horizontals and verticals, taking into account the corresponding increments of the patterns along the horizontal and vertical axes (Fig. V-45, c).

The increments along the verticals and horizontals for each constructive point of the patterns are found based on a certain position of the point relative to the original lines (axes). For the main details of shoulder products (jacket, jacket, coat, dress, etc.), the following location of the base lines is recommended (Fig. V-47).
On the back the vertical line must coincide with the center of the back or a line tangent to the top of the center line of the back. The horizontal line is the chest line (armhole depth).
On the shelf the vertical line should be tangent to the armhole line. The horizontal line is the chest line (armhole depth).
On the sleeve a vertical line connects the ends of the front roll. Horizontal line - the line of the depth of the eyelet, corresponding to the line of the depth of the armhole of the back and the shelf of the product.
in the collar only the length changes, so one initial line is selected - a vertical one passing through the notch corresponding to the position of the shoulder seam.

Reproduction of patterns by size

The initial horizontal increment for multiplying patterns in size is an increment to the width of the finished product along the chest line. It is determined on the basis of the interdimensional difference between adjacent clothing numbers (2 cm).
The distribution of the interdimensional difference between the width of the main sections of clothing (back, armhole and front) is made in proportion to the width of these sections for typical products and the variability of the dimensional features W, and W "determining the width of the back and front (Table V-8).
Horizontal increments at the constructive points of the lines of the sprout, neck, shoulder sections, waist and hips are determined based on the variability of the corresponding dimensional features of the body. The total increments along the waist and hips are distributed between the back, armhole and shelf in the same ratio as along the chest line.
The values of vertical increments are found based on the data on the variability of the proportions of the figure and the distance of the constructive points from the original horizontal. So, the points of the middle of the sprout of the back and the top of the neck of the shelf have vertical increments in men's clothing, respectively: 0.45 - 0.5 cm and 0.6 - 0.65 cm, and in women's clothing 0.6 - 0.7 cm and 0 .9 - 1.0 cm*. At the same time, the vertical increment to the point of the top of the side slices, which lies close to the original horizontal, is 0 - 0.3 cm.

The total length of the part in different dimensions (with constant growth) remains constant. To maintain a constant length at the upper and lower points of the parts: on the back - at the points of the middle of the sprout and bottom, on the shelf - at the points of the ledge of the lapel (the top of the half-skid line) and the bottom along the side, in the sleeve - at the points of the top of the okonka and bottom, lay the same in magnitude and direction vertical increments.
The movement of points on lines taken as initial ones is carried out only in one direction: on horizontal lines - horizontally, on vertical lines - vertically. All other constructive points lying on the contour lines of the patterns move both vertically and horizontally.
Vertical increments for all constructive points, regardless of their location relative to the original horizontal, are directed upwards for large sizes, downwards for smaller ones. The direction of horizontal increments (left or right) depends on the size and location of the part contour line relative to the original vertical.

On fig. V-48-51 (a) shows the schemes of reproduction according to the sizes of the main patterns of the jacket details, made according to the recommendations of the LDM [33].
Reproduction of patterns of the back (Fig. V-48, a) and shelves (Fig. V-49, a) is usually carried out on separate drawings, patterns of the upper and lower halves of the sleeve - more often on one drawing (Fig. V-50, a). In this case, the lines of the front roll and the bottom of the upper and lower halves must match. When replicating the patterns of the sleeve details, the lines of the front cuts are left unchanged, and the sleeve width is changed by moving the elbow cuts.
The value of the increment to the width of the sleeve by all methods is taken approximately equal to the increment to the width of the armhole. The experience of the Bolshevichka company shows that in order to maintain a constant percentage of fabric fit along the rim in all sizes, when sewing a sleeve into an armhole, it is necessary to take this increment by 0.1 cm more than for the armhole.

The height of the armhole changes in accordance with the change in the depth of the armhole of the product.
Reproduction of patterns of the lower collar and the upper collar is carried out in the same way. The collar width is kept constant for all sizes. The increment to the length of the collar is set in accordance with the change in the length of the sprout of the back and neck of the shelf (this corresponds to an interdimensional increment to the half-girth of the neck, equal to 0.5 cm).
When reproducing the pattern of the selection, only the length of the upper part changes in accordance with the change in the length of the neck of the shelf.
-------------------
* At the same time, the balance of men's products from size to size changes by an average of 0.15 cm, and women's - by 0.3 cm.

Reproduction of patterns by growth

The initial increment along the vertical for reproduction of patterns by height is the increment to the length of the finished product, determined on the basis of the difference between heights between adjacent heights of the product.
To simplify reproduction according to the heights of the patterns of the back and front, changes in the longitudinal dimensions of the patterns are taken into account only in the parts of the parts located below the original horizontal line - the chest line, leaving the upper part of the part unchanged in all heights.
The Leningrad House of Models found that this is one of the reasons for the imbalance of the product, and developed their own rules for the reproduction of patterns by height, taking into account the change not only in the lower, but also in the upper part of these parts. The basis for this was the published data of anthropological measurements of figures. Armhole height measurements, which determine the position of the upper structural lines relative to the base of the armhole, vary not only in size, but to the same extent in growth. At the same time, with an increase in growth in the same size, the height of the base of the armhole at the back increases to a greater extent than in front, and with an increase in size in the same height, the height of the base of the armhole at the front increases to a greater extent. In accordance with the change in the depth of the armhole of the back and the front, increments are also given to the height of the collar of the sleeve.
Reproduction of the collar by growth is not performed.
On fig. V-48 - 51 (b) shows reproduction drawings based on the growth of the main parts of the jacket, made on the recommendation of the LDM.
* * *
When replicating the patterns of parts of products of complicated models, the total increments to the dimensions of the backs, shelves, sleeves and collars remain the same as in standard products, but they are distributed between the individual parts of the parts by proportional calculation.
The technical reproduction of patterns designed according to model samples is carried out using methods used in the industry. At the same time, in some parts of the parts of the improved design (non-cut-off selections, one-piece sleeves and a collar, the main parts of trousers without side seams), the design lines are found taking into account the features of the new design, while maintaining the applied increments between sizes (Fig. V-52, 53).

Pattern reproduction technique

Graphical construction of increments at each point during the reproduction of patterns is a laborious work that requires a lot of time and intense attention. In recent years, in our country and abroad, a number of methods have appeared that simplify the technique of pattern reproduction.
The essence of these methods is as follows. Pre-constructed increments are transferred to transparent tracing paper or plexiglass so that they all fit compactly on a straight line or disk radii (Fig. V-54). Each disc radius is used to reproduce one design point of the part. The radius serves as an axis coinciding with the direction of the vertical at the corresponding design point on the pattern drawing. At an appropriate angle to the axis, straight lines are drawn, on which constructive points of all sizes lie. Holes are made at the locations of the points.
In literature the simplest grademaster and variator devices are also described, which make it possible to mechanize the process of pattern reproduction. A medium-sized template is fixed in the levers of the device and manually moved in the desired horizontal and vertical directions and outlines the contours of a new template. The contours of the patterns are then cut out by hand.
The multigrader device combines the reproduction and cutting of patterns, so there is no need to outline the contours of the patterns.

LITERATURE

31. Vinogradov S.K., Repeikov V.N., Lebedev A.M. Designing men's outerwear, Rostekhizdat, 1961.
32. Unified method of designing clothes. Men's clothing, Gosmestpromizdat, 1962.
33. Experience in designing men's clothing. "Clothing Industry", Series VIII, Information 4(6). TsINTILegprom, 1963.
35. Unified method of designing clothes. Women's clothing, Gosmestpromizdat, 1962.
37. Tsarev N.I. Design of women's outerwear. Rostekhizdat, 1963.
39. Modern methods of dimensional increases and decreases in patterns. "Sewing and knitting industry", Scientific and technical collection No. 7, TsINTILegprom, 1962.
48. Pochus M.I. Experience in the use of nomograms for the manufacture of patterns of garments of adjacent sizes (technical reproduction of patterns), BTI, 1959.
51. Mirutenko O.S., Trukhan G.L. Analysis of methods for serial production of patterns. Journal. "Sewing Industry", No. 4, 1963.

Objective: mastering the methodology and techniques for reproducing patterns of garment parts and drawing up standard schemes for grading patterns.

1. Preparation of drawings of patterns of the main parts of the product.

2. Determining the displacements of the gradation points.

3. Performing technical reproduction of patterns of the main parts in size.

4. Drawing up standard schemes for the gradation of patterns.

5. Analysis of the results of work; formulation of conclusions.

Questions to prepare for work

1. What is called the gradation of patterns?

2. What methods of pattern grading do you know? List their advantages and disadvantages.

3. What is the essence of the proportional calculation method of gradation?

4. What is the location of the initial reproduction axes on the main details of the shoulder clothing?

Benefits and tools: patterns of the main parts of a product of a typical design, paper (millimetric, tracing paper), drawing accessories.

Literature: .

Guidelines

The work is performed using a proportional-calculated gradation method.

The proportional-calculated method of grading patterns in the clothing industry is most widely used and is mainly used for grading clothing details of basic foundations and standard designs.

With this method, the values of vertical and horizontal increments when moving the nodal points are determined in proportion to the distance of the corresponding design point relative to the gradation lines, using the values of the established initial increments along the main design lines. The farther the design point is from the gradation line, the greater the increment it will move.

The values of vertical and horizontal increments are determined according to the data of the variability of dimensional features and the calculation formulas of the corresponding design methodology.

An analysis of the displacement values of the design points of the patterns of product parts for men and women of all weight groups showed that one incremental value can be used:

for men of the subgroup of small sizes according to the circumference of the chest (92–108) of all weight groups;

men of the large size subgroup according to the circumference of the chest (112–128) of all weight groups;

women of the subgroup of small sizes according to the girth of the chest (88–104) of all weight groups;

women of the subgroup of large sizes according to the circumference of the chest (108–120) of all weight groups;

women of the subgroup of very large sizes in chest circumference (124–136) of all weight groups.

For children, age variability is of great importance, so it is necessary to carry out gradation in size and height for each age group separately. In total, 6 age groups were allocated for girls and boys: nursery (up to 3 years old), preschool (3–6 years old), junior school (7–11 years old), senior school (12–15 years old), teenage (15–15 years old). 18 years old) with Og III = 84–92 cm and adolescent (15–18 years old) with Og III = 96–108 cm.

With the proportional-calculated gradation method, it is necessary to outline the contours of the original pattern, designate design points and select the initial gradation lines - the X and Y axes, perpendicular to each other. As a rule, each detail has its own gradation axes.

Main Gradation Points are identical to the design points of the base base, therefore their designation corresponds to the designation of the design points of the base base in the corresponding design method

Typical position of the axes of gradation corresponds to the construction lines that define the base grid of the design drawing.

In shoulder products with a set-in sleeve:

on the back the vertical line coincides with the middle of the back or a line tangent to the middle line of the back, the horizontal line coincides with the waist line or chest line;

on the shelf the vertical line runs tangentially to the armhole line or coincides with the middle line of the shelf, the horizontal line coincides with the waist line or chest line;

on the sleeve the vertical line connects the ends of the front roll line or passes through the highest point of the eye of the sleeve, the horizontal line coincides with the line of the sleeve width under the armhole.

In shoulder products with one-piece sleeves:

on the back the vertical line passes through the top of the side cut of the back, the horizontal line passes through the chest line;

on the shelf the vertical line passes through the top of the side cut of the front, the horizontal line passes through the chest line.

in the collar only the length changes, so grading occurs only along the horizontal axis, which is located perpendicular to the middle line of the collar and passes tangentially to the line of insertion of the collar into the neck, the vertical reproduction axis passes through the notch, which corresponds to the position of the shoulder seam or through the end of the collar.

In belt products:

for a straight skirt vertical lines coincide with the middle line of the rear panel and the middle line of the front panel, horizontal - with the line of the hips;

for pants the vertical lines coincide with the “arrow” line on the back and front halves, the horizontal line with the seat depth line.

The movement of points lying on the axes is carried out only in one direction along the corresponding axis - horizontally or vertically. All other constructive points of the contour are moved along the diagonal of a rectangle, the sides of which are transverse and longitudinal increments to a given part size.

Generally the sequence of work when performing the gradation of patterns in a proportionally calculated way can be represented by the following diagram :

Outline the contours of the original pattern;

Designate gradation points;

Select initial gradation lines;

Determine the amount of movement of gradation points along the selected axes;

Set aside the displacements of the gradation points along the selected axes;

Find the final value of the displacement of constructive points and designate it;

Outline the contours of the new pattern;

Check the correctness of the construction of patterns.

Preparation of drawings of patterns of the main parts of the product.

1. Patterns of the main parts of a typical or basic design of the product are transferred to a sheet of graph paper, placing them at a certain distance from each other, taking into account the increase in the size of the patterns during their reproduction. The back and front patterns are positioned so that the chest line is aligned with the horizontal, and the sleeve patterns are positioned so that the line of the sleeve width under the armhole is aligned with the horizontal.

2. On the obtained contours of the patterns, the gradation points are indicated by the letters of the original basic design.

3. For each part, the initial gradation axes are selected and applied to the drawing.

Determination of the displacements of gradation points.

1. In tabular form, the values \u200b\u200bof the interdimensional difference in measurements of typical figures involved in the calculations of the selected product design are drawn up (Table 8.1).

Table 8.1

The values of the interdimensional difference in the measurements of typical figures

2. In accordance with the selected initial axes of gradation of each part, the calculation of the displacements of the gradation points is performed using the formulas CAPACITY TSOTSHL. It must be remembered that the points lying on the gradation axes move only along these axes. Calculations are drawn up in tabular form (Table 8.2).

Table 8.2

Calculation of the displacements of points during the gradation of patterns

Point designation	X-axis movement calculation	Y-axis movement calculation

Performing technical reproduction of patterns of the main parts by size

Graduation is performed on two adjacent sizes (one size more and one size less than the original).

1. The resulting displacements of each nodal point of the patterns are sequentially laid aside first in the direction of the X axis, then in the direction of the Y axis in the direction of increasing the size, thus obtaining the corresponding point of the new pattern by a size larger than the original one. By connecting the starting point of the gradation with the corresponding new point by an auxiliary straight line, the direction of movement of each gradation point of the original pattern is obtained.

2. In the opposite direction, set aside the final values of the displacement of gradation points to obtain patterns of a smaller size.

3. Based on the points obtained, outline the contours of new patterns for parts of products of adjacent sizes.

4. Check the correctness of the construction of patterns of clothing parts of adjacent sizes according to control measurements. If the obtained measurements of new parts differ from the calculated values by more than 0.2 cm, then the contours of the new patterns should be corrected.

Drawing up standard schemes for grading patterns

Draw up gradation schemes for the patterns of the corresponding typical design of the product on an A4 sheet. To do this, on the drawings of parts of a typical or basic design, made on a scale of 1: 4, put horizontal and vertical arrows at the gradation points in the direction of increasing the grading size and indicate next to each arrow the increment for one size.

Analysis of the results of the work and formulation of conclusions. At the end of the work, the student must analyze the accuracy of the obtained gradation schemes and indicate the reason for the inaccuracy, if any.

Of course, few people can boast that they know the meaning of all the words in the language. In addition, many of them can have several meanings. In order to understand this, there are dictionaries. They also help broaden your horizons.

In the article we will try to consider the meaning of the word "gradation". As you know, it is used in various fields, most often found in literature, art, commodity science and logistics.

Origin of the term and its application in fiction

Gradation is an artistic means to enhance the figurativeness of speech, a kind of stylistic device built on the gradual increase in the significance of an action or statement.

The word has Latin roots and can be translated as “gradual increase”. The one-root word is "degree", which means a change by one step, that is, an increase or decrease.

Gradation is often found in poetry: speech becomes more expressive and expressive. It is expressed by repetitions, which allows you to focus the reader's attention on significant actions for the narrative.

An increasing gradation is called a climax, and a decreasing gradation is called an anticlimax. Rise is most common in poetry. A striking example is the works of A. S. Pushkin. A decreasing gradation can be found in love lyrics: it makes it possible to demonstrate the full depth of the experiences of the lyrical hero. With the help of this stylistic device, the work becomes expressive and expressive.

In art

In the field of art, gradation is a smooth transition from darker shades to less saturated ones. With the help of this technique, the paintings acquire depth and richness. Gradation can be done not only on black and white shades, but also on other colors. It is not necessary to use the tones of the same spectrum. An example of such a gradation is the rainbow.

Transitions between shades can be both pronounced and smoother. The use of gradation allows you to use a large number of different colors to make the work of art three-dimensional and bright.

Significance in trade and logistics

Grading is an important criterion in the field of merchandising and logistics. It is intended to indicate the quality characteristics of the product. The definition of product gradation is the non-conformity of the product according to certain parameters.

Goods are the first, second and third gradation.

The first is products that fully comply with all requirements and quality standards.

The second is those products that need to be sold faster. Therefore, they are sold at a discount.

The third degree is goods that are disposed of in accordance with all requirements.

Due to the large number of meanings, it is not difficult to find synonyms for the word "gradation". This is a figure of speech or sequence, alternation, gradation.

The correct use of gradation as a stylistic device allows you to make the work more interesting and expressive. And the correct use of the word in speech will allow demonstrating literacy and erudition, the richness of vocabulary.

Gradation is not just an artistic technique, it is a way of influencing people by drawing attention to important things.

1. Determine the size and height options for the gradation corresponding to the given weight group and size subgroup of the base option. The required size and height options for figures should be determined according to OST 17 - 325 - 81, OST 17 - 326 - 81.

For example, the development of patterns for a women's jacket was carried out on a typical figure 158 - 96 - 104. This size is the base for the second fullness group, a subgroup of small sizes, which includes standard sizes 84, 88, 92, 96, 100, 104 and typical heights 146 152, 158 , 164, 170, 176. In gradation drawings, it is necessary to build 3 sizes down and two sizes up. For the base size 96, patterns of all the missing heights should be built: 146, 152, 164, 170, 176.

2. Construct the contours of the basic dimension of the assembly details. Apply gradation axes to each detail.

3. Choose a gradation method and scheme from among those recommended (1, 2, 4 ... 8) or available at the enterprise.

4. Draw a diagram of the gradation of the details of the back assembly. On the diagram, indicate the directions and magnitudes of gradation increments at characteristic points (∆х i, ∆у i).

5. Build gradation drawings by size, then by height. The drawings are made on graph paper in M 161.

6. Perform an analysis and refine the gradation drawings based on the results of comparing the lengths of the design parameters of the same name in the details of the extreme size options. The number of those analyzed includes the parameters controlled by the technical description sheet of measures. In tabular form, reflect the results of the alignment of the constructive increments incorporated in the controlled parameters.

Table 3.37

Analysis of the change in structural gains during gradation

Design parameter name

Product measurement, cm

The size of the dimension, cm

The value of the constructive increase, cm

Conclusions about the correctness of gradation

Back width

The amount of increase in the support zone is constant

Shoulder Width

The increase changes, which corresponds to the calculation system and the rational configuration of the armhole

7. Perform an analysis of conjugation, overlapping and invariance in the ratio of the lengths of the cuts of the patterns of the extreme size options.

Table 3.38

Analysis of changes in the lengths of joined slices after gradation