The composition of cosmetics. What you need to know about the composition of cosmetics

The composition of cosmetics is always indicated on the product packaging, but few consumers rush to read it without attaching much importance to it. By what criteria do you choose decorative and care cosmetics? Most women focus primarily on the appearance of the product, its packaging, color and characteristics, texture, smell.

Experts believe that if the health of your skin is more important than beauty, it is better to start getting acquainted with the new product by carefully reading the information about the components and substances from which it was created by the manufacturer.

According to experts, the composition of cosmetic products is what remains when calculating biologically active substances. Be vigilant and treat the choice of such products with extreme caution. Learning to decipher the names of the main components is not as difficult as it seems at first glance.

The basic components that make up cosmetics

Manufacturers today use natural raw materials, as well as synthetic ingredients to create a cosmetic product. To natural types of raw materials It is customary to attribute ingredients of mineral, vegetable and animal origin. If you pay attention to the statistics, the basis of the composition of every second cosmetic product is about 2000 natural fats and oils.

Concerning synthetic raw materials used in the manufacture of cosmetic products, it is created chemically. This type of raw material is distinguished by the stability of physical and chemical properties, a high degree of purity, which is very important for the creation of component formulations of cosmetics.

Standard composition of cosmetics:

• emulsifiers;
• solvents;
• emollients;
• fragrances;
• surfactant(surfactants);
• film formers;
• fillers;
• stabilizers;
• pH regulators;
• protective UV filters;
• preservatives;
• organic or inorganic dyes(in the composition of cosmetics are almost always present);
• organic or inorganic pigments.

The basis of the composition of most cosmetics is 90 percent of the basic ingredients that were listed above, as well as 10 percent of BAS (biologically active substances). It should be noted that biologically active substances play a special role in the chemical composition of cosmetics: they act as stimulators of the process of cell division, as well as immunomodulators and not only.

Solvents in cosmetics

Solvents are special types of substances that can break down the components of cosmetic products. The main and most popular ones are:

• natural purified water(it is almost always included in the composition of cosmetics, because it is an excellent solvent, and also affects the color and consistency of the product, changes stability;
• low molecular weight alcohols(contribute to the dissolution of various fats, biologically active components of cosmetics, fragrances and extracts of plant origin);
• monohydric alcohols(isopropanol, ethanol);
• polyhydric alcohols(glycerin, propylene glycol, sorbitol);
• silicones(as part of cosmetics, they are necessary to create a protective film and used as solvents).

Surfactants in cosmetics

Surfactants or surfactants (surfactants) differ in chemical characteristics and affect surface tension. Also, surfactants are responsible for stabilizing the particles of one phase in another (purified liquid and oil). Surfactants allow fats to be broken down into tiny droplets, which makes it possible to reduce interfacial tension. Such components can often be found in cosmetics for removing makeup or detergent products for removing grease from dirty dishes.

Despite the advantages, surfactants in some cases can cause an allergic reaction, as they can affect the natural state of the lipid barrier of the skin. As soon as it is broken, the skin may become irritated.

Types of surfactants that are part of cosmetics:

Nonionic Surfactants	Once in an aqueous solution, they cannot form ions.
Cationic Surfactants	Once in an aqueous solution, they decompose, but at the same time positively charged ions (alkyldimethylamine oxide) appear.
Anionic surfactants	Once in an aqueous solution, surfactants gradually decompose, with the formation of negatively charged ions (sodium laureth sulfate, lauryl sulfate).
Amphoteric surfactants	Once in an aqueous solution, they exhibit anionic or cationic properties. This will depend on the pH of the medium.

Today, the main task of manufacturers who care about the quality of the composition of their cosmetic products is to reduce the amount of surfactants, as well as to choose the safest varieties. These usually include dermatologically mild surfactants that do not cause an allergic reaction and have almost no destructive effect on the lipid barrier of the skin.

Dyes and pigments in cosmetics

Specialists call dyes special additives that promote color formation. Dyes in cosmetics may dissolve in the environment of use. As for pigments, they are opaque substances that cannot be dissolved in the environment of use. Pigments are very often found among the components that make up decorative cosmetics.

Fillers in cosmetics

Mica, kaolin, clay, talc - all these components are fillers, solids of organic or mineral origin. The properties of fillers largely coincide with the characteristics of pigments. In addition, fillers in the composition of cosmetics perform several important functions.

Firstly, they have adsorption and adhesive properties. Secondly, they are involved in smoothing the skin, easily spreading and leveling their relief.

Fragrances in cosmetics

In order for a cosmetic product to have a pleasant unobtrusive smell, fragrances must be added to the composition of cosmetic products during production. Their main purpose is to "muffle" the natural odors of the ingredients used. Sometimes on the packages you can see the mark "no fragrances." Unfortunately, in most cases, the manufacturer does not specify: in fact, they are present in such products, but usually these are fragrances based on natural essential oils.

Emulsifiers in cosmetics

Emulsifiers are necessary to prevent the instability of the system, which is separated into its constituent components when water and oil are combined. Surfactants that are part of cosmetics are often used as emulsifiers.

This becomes possible due to the special structure of the emulsifier molecule (an elongated shape with one hydrophilic end and one hydrophobic end). The emulsifier molecule is localized at the boundary of the water and oil phases and creates a layer between them, due to which they do not mix.

Emollients in cosmetics

In the production of cosmetics, no less significant are substances that can be stored in the stratum corneum or on its surface, giving the skin a feeling of comfort. Such substances are called "emollients". Thanks to their effect, the skin remains softened and moisturized for a long time. In addition, with the help of emollients, the product is better distributed over the skin. These substances act as follows: the gaps between exfoliating corneocytes are filled, which makes it possible to achieve a smoothing effect.

The most common types of emollients that can be seen in the composition of a cosmetic product when deciphering it:

• synthetic oils;
• mineral oils;
• wax;
• silicones(organosilicon compounds that are part of cosmetics are responsible for the tactility of sensations);
• natural vegetable oils;
• animal fats;
• fatty alcohols.

Many emollients are good for skin health, as they contain trace elements necessary to maintain youth and beauty. However, some varieties of these substances can cause the formation of comedones. If your skin is prone to such dermatological problems, it is better not to use emollients and products that contain them.

Preservatives in cosmetics

Without preservatives, it would be impossible to protect cosmetics from the penetration of fungi and bacteria. Preservatives allow you to make the shelf life as long as possible, while retaining all the basic qualities (color, smell, properties, etc.).

However, not all consumers view preservatives in cosmetics with approval. The fact is that with a high concentration of these substances in the product, a serious allergy can develop. Recently, many manufacturers are trying to solve this problem by reducing the concentration of preservatives in the composition of decorative and care cosmetics.

Protective UV filters in cosmetic products

Substances that can absorb, reflect or neutralize the effects of ultraviolet radiation are referred to as UV filters. According to the modern classification, all existing UV filters are divided into:

• physical UV filters(zinc oxide, titanium dioxide);
• chemical UV filters(benzophenones, octylmethoxycinnamate, octocrylene).

Filters protect the skin from UVB and UVA spectrum. If both types of filters are indicated in the composition of a cosmetic product, this will mean that the degree of protection is quite high.

Why should you be careful?

The ingredients that make up cosmetics can be hazardous to health, as the skin absorbs the toxins they release, which over time can accumulate in the body and provoke an allergic reaction and serious poisoning.

Some components of the chemical composition of cosmetics can cause rashes and redness on the skin, clog pores and disrupt the lipid barrier. Treat the study of the label with the composition responsibly, because not only your beauty, but also your health will now depend on the product you choose.

Pay attention to the diagrams, which indicate the norm of the content of substances in the composition of cosmetics, as well as possible risks.

Sociologists have an opinion that a woman who chooses cosmetics first of all looks at the brand, then at the appearance of the packaging, and only then at the composition. However, recently it has become fashionable to understand the composition of what we put on ourselves, and more and more women decide for themselves whether glycerin, silicones or SLS is good or bad. Let's try and we will understand what the composition of cosmetics is, how to “read” it correctly and what main components it includes.

In our country, the legal basis for determining the composition of cosmetics are Law of the Russian Federation "On Protection of Consumer Rights" dated February 7, 1992 No. 2300-1, Rules for the sale of certain types of goods, approved by the Decree of the Government of the Russian Federation, dated January 19, 1998 No. 55 and Technical Regulations of the Customs Union "On the safety of perfumery and cosmetic products"(TR TS 009/2011), adopted by the Decision of the Commission of the Customs Union of 23.09.2011 No. 799.
According to these regulatory documents, the information on the packaging of perfumery and cosmetic products must necessarily include a list of ingredients included in the composition, which are listed in descending order of their mass fraction in the recipe. At the same time, the perfume composition is usually indicated as a single ingredient without disclosing its composition, and ingredients in a concentration of less than 1% or dyes can be listed in any order after all other ingredients.
The list should be preceded by the heading "Ingredients" or "Composition". And the composition itself can be indicated either in the official language of the state in which these products are sold, or in Latin according to the international nomenclature of cosmetic ingredients (INCI).

INCI - International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients / International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients. A dictionary that has been published since 1973. The latest, 13th edition, published in 2010, has more than 17.5 thousand ingredients. In Russia, this nomenclature is used as an official "landmark" for indicating the names of substances in the composition.

So, cosmetologists determine compound, as a complex multicomponent system of various ingredients. Ingredient is a substance or mixture of substances of synthetic or natural origin used in the manufacture of perfumes and cosmetics. All ingredients of a cosmetic product can be divided into several large groups, which we will consider below.

The foundation

This binding base for the rest of the cream is usually fat or oil. The first is an animal product, while the second is vegetable.
Their interaction with the skin is different: the oil usually mixes with the lipids of the epidermis and freely penetrates into the deeper layers of the skin, while the fat spreads over its surface, impregnating the stratum corneum.
In cosmetology, the following are often used base oils: apricot kernels, grape seeds, peach, almond, avocado, jojoba, coconut, cocoa, wheat germ and many others.
Animal fats are used less often, since they are less absorbed by the skin, and most of them remain on the surface in the form of a film that makes it difficult for skin to breathe. Examples of such a framework are mink and goose fats, badger and lard, chicken oil, fish oil, lanolin(fat, which is the main component of sheep's sebum, obtained by washing wool).

The basis can be fatty or emulsion. Fat-based creams are prepared without the addition of water and are usually too oily and "heavy" for the skin. Therefore, this type of base is practically not used in the cosmetic industry.
The emulsion base consists of two phases: water and oil. If oil droplets are suspended in an aqueous solution, we are dealing with an oil-in-water emulsion. If oil or fat-like substances predominate (about 50% or more), then this is a water-in-oil emulsion.

Also, the following substances of natural origin can be used as a basis:
- phospholipids (fat-like substances that have phosphorus in the molecule). Example − lecithin, a substance obtained by extraction from soybeans or peanuts;
- mineral foundations - liquid paraffin(aka vaseline oil), mineral oils(auto-catching, spindle, turbine, grease), low molecular weight polyhydric alcohols(for example, glycerin);
- waxes - bees white or yellow wax, spermaceti(animal wax obtained from special cavities of the sperm whale skull);
- colloids (substances that form colloidal solutions with water) - these are mainly polysaccharides, which include glues, starches, cellulose, or substances with a protein base - gelatin, casein(milk protein) albumen(substance from egg white).

In the modern cosmetics industry, the most commonly used semi-synthetic and synthetic bases. They are easier to obtain commercially, have a longer shelf life, are less picky about storage conditions, are easier to absorb, and are less allergenic than their natural counterparts. Examples of semi-synthetic (hydrogenated) fat are solid castor oil, synthetic isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl laurinate, butyl stearate and triglycerides of various higher fatty acids.

Separately, it is worth mentioning the basis of gels - they usually do not contain fat-like substances at all, therefore, other substances are used to obtain them:
- natural: glycerin, agar-agar, chitosan, gelatin, xanthone gum;
- semi-synthetic: carboxymethylcellulose and ethylcellulose;
- synthetic: polyethylene oxide and carbomers.

The type of basis depends on the tasks that this particular product must solve. In this case, it is always important that the substance used has a high degree of purification and is close in composition (homologous) to sebum and human skin lipids.

Solvents

Needed, respectively, to dissolve all other elements. Their amount in the finished product can be 60-90%. These include: water various kinds, alcohols(propylene glycol and its derivatives, ethanol, propanol), acids, ether, acetone and in some cases oils and fats.

preservatives

Necessary in order to ensure the resistance of cosmetics to microbial contamination during the expiration date. The higher their concentration, the longer the remedy will “live” and the higher the likelihood of an allergy. At the same time, they must have bactericidal, bacteriostatic, fungicidal and antioxidant properties. Examples of certified and permitted preservatives (according to the Technical Regulations, there are about 60 of them): ethyl and benzyl alcohols, bronopol, formaldehyde, imidazolidine urea, salicylic and ascorbic acids, benzoic acid and its derivatives(well-known parabens are esters of paraoxybenzoic acid and alcohols).

To understand whether a cream with this composition “works” or not, you need from 2 to 4 weeks. This is the time during which the epidermis has time to completely renew itself.

Emulsifiers

Needed to combine the fat and water phases in one product, giving them a uniform consistency, uniform distribution of active ingredients, and protecting the product from delamination.
The cheapest and most aggressive emulsifiers are surfactants (surfactants) designed to dissolve fats or break them into small droplets. These include sulfonates, sarcosines, copamides, betaines, ammonium, triethanolamine, and lanolin and lecithin derivatives. Detergent surfactants are the most commonly found in cosmetics. sodium and magnesium lauryl sulfates, for example.
In order to reduce the concentration of aggressive surfactants, the production is sometimes used co-emulsifiers- substances additionally stabilizing the emulsion. These include waxes (beeswax, jojoba, candelilla), silicone-based emulsifiers and hydrocolloids ( agar, pectin, gelatin, cholesterol, semi-synthetic and synthetic polymers). They cause less damage to the skin, but have less emulsifying power and are more expensive than surfactants.

emollients

Moisturize and soften the skin, fixing in the stratum corneum. However, they do not penetrate deep into the skin and do not interact with living tissues. In this role, related to our skin are good urea, lactic and pyrromidonecarboxylic acids, as well as milk and silk proteins, amino acids and sorbitol. But most often in production as emollients are used ceresin, mineral and castor oils, stearyl alcohol and silicones dimethicone and cyclomethicone.

It is believed that it is better to use products of the same line at the same time, since their main components must be coordinated (or the same), and the active ingredients reinforce each other without allergic reactions.

Biologically active substances (BAS)

They penetrate deep into the skin, into the dermal layer and have a direct effect on living skin cells. In the cosmetic industry, a great many of them are used - these are vitamins, and plant extracts, and trace elements, and hormones, and enzymes. According to their functions, they can be divided into three groups:
— deficiency fillers- substances that are lacking in the skin, since they are not synthesized in the body. These include vitamins, minerals, fatty and amino acids;
— protectors- protect the skin from harmful factors such as UV radiation, dirt, dehydration, low temperatures or free radicals. These substances, in turn, are also divided into three groups: forming a film on the skin to protect it from dirt, microorganisms and minor damage and reliably retaining moisture, - hyaluronic acid, collagen, chitosan, synthetic and semi-synthetic polymers. Antioxidants that protect the skin from free radicals green tea extract, vitamins A, E, C, carotenoids, bioflavonoids (phytoestrogens), coenzyme Q10, selenium. And antimicrobial agents that support the skin with a large microbial load - triclosan, for example.
— modulators- change the speed and intensity of physiological processes taking place in the skin - stimulate cell division, regulate the synthesis of various substances (collagen, sebum) and change the speed of skin immune reactions.

Enhancers

These are transporters that facilitate the penetration of water-soluble biologically active substances through the epidermal barrier. They increase the permeability of the surface layers of the skin either due to the destruction or liquefaction of the lipid layers between the horny scales, or due to the fact that they themselves are transdermal carriers - special complexes of molecules that surround BAS and "pull" them along through the epidermis. The role of enhancers can be played by liposomes, perfluorocarbons, dimexide, surfactants.

Cream with any composition should be homogeneous, without plaque, water or foreign bodies.

fragrances

Designed to give cosmetics a pleasant smell, neutralizing the smell of the raw materials used in the production. May consist of substances of natural, semi-synthetic and synthetic origin. Natural aromatic substances include: natural essential oils, balms and resins ( styrax, peru balsam) and fragrant substances of animal origin ( amber, musk). To semi-synthetic - geraniol and coumarin(the smell of hay), to synthetic - benzyl acetone, vanillin, phenone ethyl ester(rose scent).

Dyes

Designed to give a certain color to cosmetics or color the skin, hairline, nails. Because of the possible side effects, the use of dyes in cosmetics is strictly regulated - all synthetic dyes are subject to mandatory certification. The list of dyes permitted by the Technical Regulations includes more than 150 items. Natural dyes (indigo, henna, ultramarines and others) can be used without certification, so recently they are being used more and more actively.

* * *
Many of the above substances can perform several related functions in cosmetics at once. For example, mineral oil can be both a base and an emollient, while a surfactant can be an emulsifier and enhancer.

In addition, the Technical Regulations indicate about 1,300 substances that, in principle, are prohibited from being used in cosmetics. These include arsenic, chromium, antimony, lead, selenium and their compounds, some dyes, estrogens, antibiotics.

When writing the article, the following books were used: I.V. Bulgakov "Cosmetology from A to Z", N.A. Gvozdenko "Handbook of Therapeutic Cosmetology", Yu.Yu. Dribnokhod "Cosmetology", A.A. Margolin, E.I. Hernandez, O.E. Zaikin "New cosmetology".

Let's take a critical look together at which points the author of the list was wrong, and in which he was right. Write your reasons in the comments!

Note:
list sorted in Russian alphabet.

If the labels on the packaging are in English, see.

Not all ingredients on the list pose a risk to your health, read the explanations for the specific ingredient.

Unfamiliar words:

Carcinogenic(cancer - cancer) - dangerous and toxic substances that cause malignant tumors.

Mutagenic- dangerous substances that produce changes inside cells at the genetic level, i.e. change the structure of cells.

1,2-Dichloroethene, Acetylene dichloride, sim-Dichloroethylene - Dioform.

Used in many toothpastes and other tooth whiteners. Damages tooth enamel.

Alkylphenol ethoxylate - Alkyl-phenol-ethoxylades.

Reduces the amount of male sperm, mimicking the action of estrogen. Widely used in shampoos.

Alcohol, Alcohol - Alcohol.

Acts as a vehicle and prevents foaming. Dries quickly. Synthetic alcohol (unlike microbiological) is a poisonous, carcinogenic, mutagenic substance that causes adverse reactions in the body.

Albumin - Albumin.

Albumin is the main ingredient in skin tightening formulations. Advertised as an anti-wrinkle product. The formula contains bovine serum albumin (bovine serum albumin), which, when dried, covers wrinkles with a film, which makes them not seem so noticeable. Has a negative effect on the skin.

The last time a serious case was brought against a customer complaint was in the 1960s. Both of these drugs were wrinkle removers. The formulation contained bovine serum albumin which, when dried, formed a film over wrinkles and made them less visible...

Alpha hydroxy acids, Alpha Hydrax Acids - AHA's.

Exfoliate old cells from the surface of the skin, after which only fresh young cells remain on it. The skin looks young and not so wrinkled. By removing the outer layer of dead cells, we also remove the first and most important protective layer of the skin. In this case, harmful environmental factors that contribute to skin aging penetrate it faster and deeper. As a result, the skin ages prematurely.

Aluminum - Aluminium.

It is used as a color additive in cosmetics, especially eye shadow, and in deodorants and antiperspirants. Harmful.

Flavors - Fragrances..

Aromatic additives to most cosmetic preparations. They contain up to 1000 synthetic substances, which are mostly carcinogenic. May cause headaches, dizziness, allergic rashes, skin discoloration, severe coughing and vomiting, skin irritation. Clinical observation proves that fragrances can affect the central nervous system and cause depression, irritability, etc.

Acetamide, amide of acetic acid - Acetamide MEA.

Used in lipsticks and blushes to retain moisture. It is toxic, carcinogenic, mutagenic.

Benzene, Aromatic hydrocarbon - Benzene.

Benzene is a bone marrow poison. In combination with other components, it is widely used in cosmetics. It is toxic, carcinogenic, mutagenic.

Bentonite - Bentonite.

Bentonite - 1. Highly plastic clay, 2. A grade of bleaching clay. This is a natural mineral that is used in masks, powder and other cosmetics. It differs from ordinary clay in that it forms a gel when mixed with a liquid. It is assumed that bentonite is able to draw out toxins.
It is a porous clay that quickly absorbs moisture from the skin. Forms gas-tight films.
Intensively retains toxins and carbon dioxide, preventing the skin from breathing and excreting waste products. Suffocates the skin, cutting off the supply of oxygen. Bentonite particles can have sharp edges and scratch the skin. Comedogenic. Experiments on mice showed high toxicity.

Biotin, vitamin H, vitamin B7, coenzyme R - Biotin (Vitamin H).

Biotin (Vitamin H) is an exotic ingredient touted as essential and beneficial for skin and hair care. A lack of this vitamin has been linked to oily skin and hair loss in rats and other experimental animals. However, human hair is different from animal hair. Biotin deficiency is extremely rare, and therefore it can be considered a completely useless additive in cosmetic preparations. Moreover, the molecular weight of biotin is too large for it to penetrate the skin.

Bronopol, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol, BNPD -Bronopol.

Forms nitrosamines, which are carcinogenic. Chanel's most expensive cosmetic line uses this ingredient. Even stores specializing in natural cosmetics sell products containing bronopol, although there are many other natural substitutes. Very dangerous.

Butylhydroxyanisole, E320 - Butylated Hydroxyanisole (BHA).

Butylated Hydroxytoluene, Butylated Hydroxytoluene (BHT).

Antioxidant, widely used not only in cosmetics, but also in the food industry. It is quickly absorbed into the skin and remains in the tissues for a long time. Carcinogen.

Gamma Hexachlorane - Lindane, hexachlorocyclohexane.

A pesticide that is used in agriculture. Trade names Kwell, linden, Bio-Well, GBH, G-well, Kildane, Kwildane, Scabene and Thionex. Add to creams, lotions and shampoos. Carcinogenic. Causes skin cancer. Very toxic to the nervous system. Damages the brain.

Hyaluronic acid, hyaluronate, hyaluronan - Hyaluronic acids.

This is the "last peep" in the cosmetics industry. It happens that cosmetic companies use only a small amount of this acid in their products, so long as the ingredient is mentioned in the composition on the sticker. It doesn't do the skin any good.

Glycerin (conditionally useful), 1,2,3-trihydroxypropane, 1,2,3-propanetriol - Glycerine.

Advertised as a beneficial moisturizer. It is a clear, syrupy liquid obtained by chemically combining water and fat. Water separates fat into smaller components - glycerol and fatty acids. This improves the penetration of creams and lotions and prevents them from losing moisture through evaporation. Glycerin is the basis of all fats. In general, fat is glycerol + fatty acids. Glycerin is valued in cosmetology for its moisturizing and water-retaining properties. Moisturizing effect - glycerin molecules are surrounded by water molecules (because glycerin has three hydropower groups) and, getting into the skin along with water, retains moisture.

But if you use a large percentage of glycerin - 40-50%, a harmful substance is formed as a by-product (this is exactly what they say about harm). Studies have shown that at air humidity below 65%, glycerin sucks water out of the skin to the full depth and holds it on the surface, instead of taking moisture from the air. Thus, it makes dry skin even drier.

Dimethylamine - Dimethylamine..

Carcinogen.

Dioxane, diethylene dioxide - 1,2-Dioxane -ethoxylated alcohols, 1,4-dioxane, polysorbates, and laureths.

It is found in shampoos, conditioners, facial cleansing lotions, creams, soaps, and various cleaning products used in the household. Easily penetrate into the skin, and with the air into the body. Strong carcinogen. Causes cancer of the nasal septum, destroys the liver.

Dioxins, polychlorinated dibenzo-1,4-dioxins - Dioxins..

500,000 times more carcinogenic than DDT. Used to bleach paper. There are facts that confirm the presence of dioxins in milk and other dairy products that are packaged in cardboard boxes, since paper bleaching was carried out using this substance.

Disodium EDTA - Disodium EDTA.

Hazardous carcinogen, may contain ethylene oxide and/or dixane.

DEA, Diethanolamine - diethanolamine, 2,2'-Iminodiethanol 2,2'-Dihydroxydiethylamine, DEA;
MEA, Monoethanolamine - Monoethanolamine (MEA);
TEA, Triethanolamine - Triethanolamine, TEA,
as well as others: Cocamide DEA -
Cocamide DEA, Diethanolamide;
DEA-Cetyl phosphate - DEA Cetyl phosphate;
DEA Oleth-3 phosphate - DEA-oleth-3 phosphate,
Myristamide DEA;
Stearamide MEA - Stearamide MEA;
Cocamide MEA - Cocamide MEA,
Lauramide DEA - Loramid DEA,
Linoleamide MEA - Linoleamide MEA, a mixture of linoleic acid ethanolamides;
Oleamide DEA - Oleamide DEA;
TEA-Lauryl Sulfate - TEA lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate.)

They are used as emulsifiers and foaming agents in face cleansing lotions, shampoos, body and bath lotions, soaps, etc. Ethanolamines irritate the eyes, skin and mucous membranes, cause dermatitis. Diethanolamine easily penetrates the skin and settles in various organs, especially in the brain. Animal tests have shown that this substance can be toxic to the kidneys, liver, brain, spinal cord, bone marrow, and skin. These substances are carcinogenic.

Animal fat - Tallow (animal fat).

Animal fat: beef, pork. In cosmetics, it promotes the growth of bacterial colonies.

Isopropyl alcohol, propanol-2, isopropanol, dimethylcarbinol, IPA - Isopropyl Alcohol (SD-40).

Causes cancer of the mouth, tongue and throat. It is used as a cleaning agent, as well as in cosmetics, perfumes, and mouthwashes. Symptoms of poisoning - headache, nosebleeds, dizziness.

Imidazolidinylurea - Imidazolidinyl Urea.

After parabens, it is the most commonly used preservative in cosmetics. Colorless, tasteless, odorless substance. Add to powder, baby shampoos, colognes, eye shadows, hair tonics and lotions.
Causes dermatitis. At high temperatures, it releases formaldehyde, which is very toxic.

Coal tar, Coal tar - Coal Tar.

Used in anti-dandruff shampoos. Usually put on labels under the names: FD, FDC or coloring FD&C.
Coal tar can cause serious illnesses: allergic reactions, asthma attacks, fatigue, nervousness, headaches, nausea, poor concentration, and cancer.

Carbomer, Carbopol, 934, 940, 941, 960, 961 C - Carbomer.

Used as a thickener and stabilizer in creams, toothpastes, eye makeup, and bath products. artificial emulsifier. May cause allergies and eye inflammation.

Quaternium-15 - Quaternium-15.

Used in cosmetics as a preservative and antimicrobial agent. Forms formaldehyde, which is very toxic. Causes dermatitis.

Cocamide DEA, diethanolamide, coconut oil NN-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)amide - Cocamide DEA.

Mainly present in shampoos. Contains nitrosamines, which are known carcinogens.

Cocamidopropyl Betaine - Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Used in shampoos in combination with other surfactants (surfactants). Synthetic substance. Causes eye irritation.

Collagen (not to be confused with vegetable liquid-soluble collagen), fibrillar protein - Collagen.

Collagen is a protein - the main part of the structural network of our skin. It is believed that with age, it begins to break down, and the skin becomes thin and flabby. Some companies insist that collagen can improve the skin's own collagen structure. Others say that it is absorbed by the epidermis and moisturizes the skin.

Collagen is an insoluble fibrous protein that is too large to penetrate the skin. Used in many cosmetic preparations. Obtained from the skin of animals or ground chicken legs.

The use of collagen is potentially harmful for the following reasons:

1. The large size of collagen molecules prevents it from penetrating into the skin. Instead of being beneficial, it settles on the surface of the skin, clogging pores and preventing water from evaporating, just like technical oil. Forms a film on the skin under which the skin can suffocate. It's about the same as playing tennis with a soccer ball. (The molecular weight of any ingredient must be 3,000 to penetrate the skin, 800 to the cell, and 75 to enter the bloodstream. The molecular weight of the ingredients in most cosmetics and shampoos is 10,000).

2. Collagen used in cosmetics is obtained by scraping from the skins of cattle or from the underside of the paws of birds. Even if it penetrates the skin, its molecular composition and biochemistry are different from human, and it cannot be used by the skin.

Lanolin, wool wax, animal wax - Lanolin.

Advertisers have found that the words "contains lanolin" (advertised as a beneficial moisturizer) help sell products, and in this regard, they began to claim that "it is able to penetrate the skin like no other oil", although there is not enough scientific evidence for this. confirmations. Studies have found that lanolin causes an increase in skin sensitivity, and even an allergic rash. There is a high content of pesticides, sometimes up to 50-60%. Very harmful to the skin: clogs pores, does not allow the skin to breathe. Possibly carcinogenic.

Ammonium laureth sulfate (ALS) - Ammonium laureth sulphate (ALS).

Easily penetrates the skin. Found in hair care products and bath foams. It is toxic, carcinogenic, mutagenic.

Sodium laureth sulfate - Sodium Laureth Sulfate - SLES.

Ingredient similar in properties to SLS (ether chain added). Found in 90% of shampoos and conditioners. It is very cheap and thickens when salt is added. Forms a lot of foam and gives the illusion that it is thick, concentrated and expensive. This is a rather weak detergent. SLES reacts with other ingredients and forms dioxins in addition to nitrates. Eat away the hair follicle and slow down hair growth. Quickly penetrates the body and settles before the eyes, in the brain, liver. Very slowly excreted from the body. May cause blindness and cataracts. Carcinogenic. Irritates the skin and eyes, causes hair loss and dandruff. Causes severe allergic reactions. Very dry skin and scalp.

Used as a wetting agent in the textile industry.

Sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium dodecyl sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfonic acid salt - Sodium Lauryl Sulfate -SLS.

It is an inexpensive detergent derived from coconut oil and is widely used in cosmetic cleaners, shampoos, bath and shower gels, bath foamers, and the like. This is perhaps the most dangerous ingredient in hair and skin care products.

In industry, SLS is used in garage floor cleaners, engine degreasers, car washes, etc. It is a very strong corrosive agent (although it does remove grease from the surface).

Sodium lauryl sulfate is used in clinics around the world as a tester for skin irritability in the following way: researchers use this drug to cause skin irritation in animals and humans, and then treat it with various drugs.

Recent studies at the Medical College of the University of Georgia have shown that SLS enters the eyes, the brain, the heart, the liver, and more. and stays there. This is especially dangerous for children, in whose tissues it accumulates in high concentrations. These studies also show that SLS alters the protein composition of children's eye cells and delays the normal development of these children, causing cataracts.

Sodium lauryl sulfate cleanses by oxidation, leaving an irritating film on the skin of the body and hair. It can contribute to hair loss, dandruff, acting on the hair follicles. Hair dries out, becomes brittle and split at the ends.

Another problem. Sodium lauryl sulfate reacts with many cosmetic ingredients to form nitrosamines (nitrates). These nitrates enter the bloodstream in large quantities when using shampoos and gels, taking baths and using cleansers. If you wash your hair once with shampoo that contains SLS, it means to nourish your body with a huge amount of nitrates, which are quickly carried by the blood throughout the body. It's like eating a kilogram of ham stuffed with the same nitrates. Carcinogenic. The molecular weight of SLS is 40 (substances with a molecular weight of 75 or less quickly penetrate the bloodstream).

Many companies often disguise their SLS products as natural, stating "derived from coconuts".

Liposomes (not to be confused with phytoliposomes) - Liposomes (Nanosphenes or Micellization).

Considered a radical remedy for the fight against aging. According to one of the latest theories, cell aging is accompanied by a thickening of the cell membrane. Liposomes are tiny sacs of fat and thymus hormone extract suspended in a gel. It is assumed that they merge with the cells, revitalize them and add moisture. However, recent scientific studies do not support these assumptions. The cell membranes of old and young cells are identical.
Thus, liposome moisturizers are another costly scam.

Loramide Day - Lauramide DEA.

Lauric Acid is usually derived from coconut or bay oil and is used to lather and thicken various cosmetic preparations. Included in the basis for the production of soap, because it creates a good foam. It is also used in dishwashing detergents due to its ability to remove grease.
In a cosmetic formula, it reacts with other ingredients to produce nitrosamines, known carcinogens. Dries hair, skin and scalp. Causes itching and allergic reactions.

Methylchloroisothiazolinone, commercial name Kathon CG, abbreviations: CMIT, CMI, MCI - preservative - Methyl Chloroisothiazolinine.

Carcinogenic, toxic and mutagenic.

Sodium oleate sulfate - Sodium Oleth Sulfate.

Sodium pyrrolidone carbonate - Sodium PCA (NAPCA).

Synthetically obtained, it can seriously dry out the skin and cause allergies.

Orthophosphoric acid, phosphoric acid - Phosphoric acid.

Inorganic product. In high concentrations, it is very toxic to the skin.

Para-aminobenzoic acid, bacterial vitamin H1, vitamin B10 - Paba (p-aminobenzoic acid).

Water-soluble vitamin from the vitamin B complex. Widely used in sunscreens. May be phototoxic and cause contact dermatitis and eczema.

Parabens - Parabens.

Trade name: butylparaben, ethylparaben, methylparaben, propylparaben. In cosmetics, they are used as preservatives. Cause dermatitis and allergies. May cause breast cancer.

Para-Phenylenediamine Dyes..

Hair dyes: dark or brown. Carcinogenic when oxidized. Causes various types of cancer - non-Hodgkin's lymphoma and multiple myeloma. Jacqueline Kennedy dyed her hair black every two weeks. She died of non-Hodgkin's lymphoma.

Petrolatum - Petrolatum.

Fat, a petrochemical product - petrolatum - has the same harmful properties as industrial oil. By retaining liquid, it prevents the release of toxins and waste products and interferes with the penetration of oxygen.

Polysorbates, ethoxylated sorbitans, nonionic surfactants - Polysorbate-n (20-85).

Used as an emulsifier. Causes skin irritation and contact dermatitis. Toxic.

Polyelectrolyte - Polyquaternium.

It is toxic, carcinogenic, mutagenic.

Polyethylene glycol, PEG, macrogol, polyethylene oxide, PEO - PEG (4-200).

Abbreviation for polyethylene glycol, polyoxethylene, polygocol, polyether glycol. Cause allergic skin reactions and eczema. Contain dangerous levels of the highly toxic substance dioxane.

Propylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol - Propylene Glycol.

Polyethylene Glycol (PEG) - Butylene Glycol (BG) - Thylene Glycol (EG). The most commonly used vehicle (after water) in a cosmetic formula. Propylene glycol is a petroleum derivative, a sweet, caustic liquid.

In cosmetics for skin care and shampoos, it is claimed to be able to retain moisture in the skin. It actually draws moisture out of the skin. Degreases and dries out the skin. Irritates eyes. It is cheaper than glycerin, but causes more allergic reactions). It is believed to give the skin a youthful appearance. Its proponents are conducting research to prove that propylene glycol is a safe and effective ingredient. However, scientists believe that it is harmful to the skin for the following reasons:

1. In industry, it is used as an antifreeze in water cooling systems and as a brake fluid. On the skin, it gives a feeling of smoothness and oiliness, but this is achieved by displacing components important for skin health.

2. By binding liquid, propylene glycol displaces water at the same time. The skin can't use it, it functions with water, not antifreeze.

3. Data from the safety study (MSDS) of propylene glycol show that its contact with the skin can cause liver damage and kidney damage. In cosmetics, a typical composition includes 10-20% propylene glycol (note that propylene glycol is usually one of the first in the list of ingredients of preparations, which indicates its high concentration).

4. In January 1991, the American Academy of Dermatology published a clinical review regarding the association of dermatitis with propylene glycol. The report proved that propylene glycol causes a large number of reactions and is one of the main skin irritants even in low concentrations.

Studies show that this substance is mutagenic. Quickly penetrates the skin, destroys cellular proteins and settles in the body.

Propyl stearomide, Tetrasodium salt EDTA - Stearamidopropyl Tetrasodium EDTA.

Forms nitrosamines in cosmetics. Nitrosamines are known carcinogens.

Styrene C8H8, phenylethylene, vinylbenzene - Styrene Monomer.

Carcinogenic, toxic, mutagenic. Irritates skin and mucous membranes.

Talc

Obtained from magnesium silicate. There is an opinion that talc is dangerous and toxic and that it should not be used on children because it can cause lung cancer. According to other sources, this applies only to talc mixtures containing lead.

Technical oil, Petroleum (mineral) oils - Mineral Oil (heavy and light).
This ingredient is derived from petroleum. It is a mixture of liquid hydrocarbons separated from gasoline. It is used in industry for lubrication and as a solvent liquid. When used in cosmetics as a humectant, technical oil forms a water-repellent film and locks moisture into the skin. It is believed that by retaining moisture in the skin, you can make it softer, smoother and look younger. The truth is that a film of industrial oil retains not only water, but also toxins, carbon dioxide, waste and life products; it prevents the penetration of oxygen. The skin is a living breathing organ that needs oxygen. And when toxins accumulate in the skin and oxygen does not penetrate, the skin becomes unhealthy.

Studies have shown that saturating the skin with liquid, retained by the oil film, slows down the growth and development of cells. The new skin cell migrates to the surface where it is sloughed off and washed away. This process takes 20 days for young people and up to 70 days for older people. During this migration from the lower layers of the skin to the surface, the cell changes both structurally and in composition. These changes are necessary for the skin to remain healthy and act as a barrier and protector of the body.

When the skin is sealed and the ducts are overflowed with a large amount of excess fluid, saturated with toxins and waste, the vital functions of the skin are disrupted. Cells cease to develop normally, and their growth slows down. Immature cells rise to the surface and cannot perform a barrier function. Such skin easily cracks and dries out, becomes irritable and sensitive. Due to growth retardation, the skin becomes weaker and thinner. Natural mechanisms of recovery and self-defense are weakened and harmful elements of the environment affect the skin faster and easier. In short, the skin, quickly wrinkled, becomes thinner and more sensitive, easily irritated. The youthful appearance of the skin and the flush fade as she loses her health. In fact, liquid is the only way to improve dry skin, but improper moisturizing methods are very harmful and cause premature aging, not rejuvenation. Dr. T.G. Randolf, an allergist, found that this ingredient causes petrochemical allergens. Allergic reactions can be very serious, leading to arthritis, migraine, hyperkinesia, epilepsy, and diabetes. When ingested, technical oil binds fat-soluble vitamins A, D, E and, preventing their absorption, removes from the body. And, although only a very small amount can penetrate the skin, this tendency is so dangerous that Adelle Davis, in her “Let's Eat Right to Keep Healthy,” says that she personally “is careful not to use technical oil even in baby oils, cold creams and other cosmetic products. preparations"

Technical oils tend to dissolve natural sebum and increase dehydration. It is recognized as the most common cause of acne and various rashes in women using technical oil cosmetics. It was found that in the production of technical oils, they contain carcinogens, and a strong concentration.

Tyrosine (alpha-amino-beta-(p-hydroxyphenyl) propionic acid) - Tyrosine.

Some tanning lotions contain tyrosine. Be sure that this will certainly be reflected in the advertisement of a cosmetic product - an amino acid that enhances melanization (tanning) of the skin. But melanization is an internal process and smearing lotion on the skin cannot affect it. Similarly, you can rub yourself with food to satisfy your hunger.

Manufacturers' claims about the effectiveness of tan enhancers remain unconfirmed. Recent independent studies have not confirmed these claims. It is doubtful that tyrosine can penetrate the skin to such a depth as to affect the melanization process.

Triclosan - Triclosan.

The latest advance in antibacterial chemistry. It is used in household cleaners and detergents, as well as in cosmetics.
Triclosan is a chlorophenol, a class of known carcinogenic chemicals. Irritates the skin. Very toxic to the whole body.
It has a negative effect on the liver, kidneys, lungs, brain, can cause paralysis, reduces sexual functions.

Triethylamine - Triethanolamine (Trolamine, TEA).

Causes severe dermatitis on the skin of the face, making it sensitive and allergic. Usually in cosmetics, it regulates the pH balance. May contain nitrosamines, which are highly carcinogenic.

Toluene, methylbenzene - Toluene (toluol).

Obtained from petroleum products. Reminds me of benzene. Toxic. May cause anemia. Damages the liver. Irritates skin and mucous membranes.

Humidifiers - Humectants.

Most moisturizers contain humectants. It is believed that they attract moisture from the air. In fact, they draw moisture from the skin. Humectants including propylene glycol and glycerin act as humectants in humid environments. If you are in dry places, such as an airplane cockpit or a well-heated room, they, on the contrary, draw moisture from the skin.

FDS - FDC-n (FD&C).

Available in various colors. Some are skin irritants, others are strong carcinogens. It is believed that levels of acceptable safe use of these funds for each color category have not yet been established.

Phenoxyethanol - Phenoxyethanol..

Causes severe allergic reactions. The trade names are Arosol, Dowanol EPH, Phenyl Cellosolve, Phenoxethol, Phenoxetol and Phenonip.

Formalin DMDM, aqueous solution: 40% formaldehyde, 8% methyl alcohol and 52% water - Hydantoin DMDM..

May cause dermatitis. As a preservative, it can form formaldehyde, which is a dangerous carcinogen.

Phthalates, salts of phthalic acid - Phthalates.

Dibutyl Phthalate - Diethyl Phthalate - Dimethyl Phthalate. Phthalates are very widely used in cosmetics and perfumery. Interestingly, environmental laws govern and control the use of phthalates as they are considered toxic.
Cosmetic products do not even have warnings about their high toxicity.
They destroy the liver and kidneys, are very dangerous for the fetus, reduce the amount of sperm.

Fluoride, a fluorine compound - Fluoride.

Hazardous chemical element. Especially dangerous in toothpaste. Scientists associate this element with the occurrence of dental deformities, arthritis, and allergic manifestations.

Fluorocarbons, perfluorocarbons - Fluorocarbons.

Usually used in hair sprays. Toxic to the respiratory tract.

Formaldehyde, methanal, formic aldehyde, formic acid aldehyde - Formaldehyde.

Used in nail polish, soaps, cosmetics and shampoos. Causes severe mucosal irritation. Trade name: DMDM ​​hydantoin or MDM hydantion.
Very toxic to the skin. Known carcinogen. Two substances from the formaldehyde family are used as preservatives in cosmetics: DMDM ​​(Dimethylol Dimethol Hydantoin) and Imidazolidinyl Urea. Toxic. Cause contact dermatitis.

Sodium cyanide, sodium cyanide, NaCN - sodium salt of hydrocyanic acid - Sodium Cyanide.

It is toxic, carcinogenic, mutagenic.

Placental extracts - Placental Extract - Placenta.

Placenta extract is dangerous because, if all sanitary requirements were not met upon receipt, it can cause very serious diseases. Is it worth risking your health?

Elastin (not to be confused with Cross-Linked Elastin) - Elastin.

Another ingredient touted as beneficial for skin and hair care. This substance is the structure that holds the skin cells in place. It is believed that with age, elastin molecules are destroyed, and thus wrinkles are formed. In order to restore the skin, many cosmetic companies introduce elastin into their preparations.

Like collagen, elastin is derived from cattle and also forms a suffocating film on the skin due to its large molecular weight. Elastin cannot penetrate the skin and, even if injected, does not perform its functions due to an unsuitable molecular structure, because human elastin differs in structure from animal.

Only one type of cross-linked elastin is able to penetrate human skin and is compatible with it. This form of elastin is called desmosine or isodesmosine.

Ethylene glycol, glycol, 1,2-dioxyethane, ethanediol-1,2 - Glycols.

They are used as humectants (substances designed to retain moisture in the skin). They can be of both animal and vegetable origin. They are also produced synthetically. Diethylene glycol and carbitol are toxic. Ethylene glycol causes bladder cancer. All glycols are toxic, carcinogenic and mutagenic.

Natural cosmetic

Natural cosmetics can be called with confidence, for example, the cream or mask that you made yourself from the natural products, plants, herbs you have.

As for purchased industrial “natural cosmetics”, it will only be more or less natural, which, in principle, is not bad. But sometimes they can just lie.

There are no legal definitions for the word "natural", which you can see everywhere. The chemical definition of the word "organic" means that the compound simply contains carbon.

In cosmetics, the word "natural" can mean anything the manufacturer wishes. There are no legal obligations associated with this term. Often "natural cosmetics" is just a publicity stunt.

There are no clear criteria for what a "natural" product can and cannot contain. Cosmetic preparations referred to as "natural" may contain preservatives, colorants, and any other ingredients that cannot be called natural.

Thus, the products of the cosmetic industry majority firms do not give the consumer what he expects. The benefits of such cosmetics, rather, psychological than the real one.

If the labels on the packaging are in English, see .

USED ​​MATERIALS:

1. Begoin, Paula Blue Eyeshadow Should Still Be Legal, Beginning Press, 1988.
2. Brumberg, Elaine Take Care of Your Skin, Harper & Row Publishers, Inc. ,1989.
3. Chase, Deborah The New Medically-Based No-Nonsense Beauty Book, Henry Holt & Co., 1989.
4. Friend, Tim USA Today, 4-10-90.
5. Green, Dr. Kaith Detergent Penetration Into Young and Adult Eyes Department of Opthamology, Medical College of GA, Augusta, GA.
6. Hampton, Aubrey Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients Organica Press.
7. Metarasso, Dr. Seth L. "Faking It" - Muscle & Fitness, November, 1990.
8. Valmy, Christine & Vons Ulrich, Elise "Mid-Air Skin Care" - Entepreneurial Woman, July/August 1990.
9. Winter, Ruth A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients, Crown Publishers, Inc., 1989.
10. Wright, Camille S. Shampoo Report, Images International, Inc., 1989.
11. Phyto-Cosmetics (www.skindoсtor.ru).

Decorative cosmetics and body care products should make us more beautiful and healthier. Consumers often fall for the trick of advertisers and purchase a similar product without studying its composition at all. Meanwhile, doctors and scientists assure that the composition of cosmetics contains substances that can have an extremely negative impact on health. There is also a flip side of the coin: in pursuit of fashionable "ECO" and organic products, we begin to believe in rumors about the dangers of those components that have been used in the production of cosmetics for decades and in fact are not at all dangerous to human health.

Let's try to figure out which substances in cosmetics can actually be harmful to us, and which ones are not.

The main components of cosmetics

There are a number of components that are necessarily present in every cosmetic product. These include:

• natural fats - cocoa butter, fish oil, lanolin and others;
• synthetic (or semi-synthetic) fats - for example, castor oil, chitosan, gelatin and others.

The task of these components is to maintain the level of moisture in the skin and its fat balance, nutrition. They are perfectly preserved on the surface of the skin and, in theory, should cope with the tasks. But if the cosmetics were chosen incorrectly, then these same components have a negative effect - they stop / slow down the respiratory processes in the skin, disrupt the state of its water balance and the processes of removing harmful substances from the cells.

Another main component is emulsifiers , which provide a uniform consistency of the cosmetic product. If their number is too high, then the use of such cosmetics leads to drying of the skin, a feeling of tightness appears, the surface begins to peel off - all this brings quite uncomfortable sensations.

The basis of any cosmetic product are and biologically active substances . They are designed to enhance the effect of the product, or they themselves have a beneficial effect on the skin. But the problem is that it is biologically active substances that can cause a powerful allergic reaction, so when choosing a cosmetic product, be sure to look at contraindications for use and study specific biologically active substances.

To give the cosmetic a pleasant aroma, manufacturers must use fragrances . They only play the role flavoring , but often it is on them that outbreaks of an allergic reaction occur, which proceed in a severe form. Here you need to take care of yourself on your own - study the composition of the cosmetic product and exclude yourself from allergies to certain aromas.

Usage preservatives in cosmetics is also necessary - they allow you to extend the period of their use. Conscientious manufacturers use quality certified preservatives, but there are those who prefer the lower quality of this component - money in this case is everything for them. And such low-quality preservatives can damage skin cells! What are preservatives in cosmetics?

• antioxidants – they slow down the aging process of fats in cosmetics;
• bactericidal components - they destroy those pathogenic microorganisms that can get into cosmetics from the outside;
• pro-oxidant inactivators - they slow down the aging process of almost all ingredients.

Ingredients in cosmetics that can cause allergies

Allergenic ingredients in cosmetics can be both natural ingredients and synthetic ones. Therefore, doctors strongly recommend studying the composition of cosmetics, and not buying widely advertised ones.

Vaseline (Petrolatum) and Liquid Vaseline (Paraffinum liquidum)

In general, these products are made on the basis of petroleum products, among them white and yellow vaseline are distinguished. White Vaseline always goes through many stages of cleaning, it is absolutely harmless to health. But yellow Vaseline has a much worse quality and can cause an allergic reaction - it is usually added to the cheapest cosmetics.

Talc (Talc)

This component is actively used not only in the manufacture of cosmetics, but also in pediatrics. But if talc is used too often, it can cause dry skin, allergic reactions, and even provoke the development of cancerous tumors - these data were published by American researchers. So, scientists have found that regular application of powders containing talc to the female genital area increases the risk of developing uterine cancer http://site/rak-shejki-matki/.

Antibacterial substance Methylchoroisothiazolinone

Even if the concentration of this substance in a cosmetic product is insignificant, it can irritate the skin - redness, itching, peeling and small rashes will be constant when using such cosmetics. The maximum recommended concentration of this substance in rinse-off cosmetics is 0.1% by weight of the product, and in products left on the skin for a long time - 0.05%. In the EU and the USA, the permissible concentration, even in flushed products, is even lower - 0.0015%.

Interesting! In Japan, this preservative is only allowed to be used as a component of rinse-off cosmetics.

Alpha hydroxy acids (Alpha Hydroxy Acid)

Such components include, for example, lactic acid. Alpha hydroxy acids are used for additional cleansing of the skin surface from dead cells and dead epidermis. But in addition to such a positive effect, these same substances can disrupt the protective barrier of the skin, and this already leads to the development of other skin diseases.

The US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has warned consumers that alpha hydroxy acids may increase photosensitivity to the sun.

Cosmetics containing alpha hydroxy acids should be recommended for use by specialists, and used only in strict accordance with the instructions for use.

Borax (Borax)

This component in a number of countries is used not only in cosmetics, but even in food and medicine. However, scientific studies have shown that borax can have a negative impact on the functioning of the body as a whole and is generally a toxic product.

On December 16, 2010, sodium tetraborate (borax) was added as a "Substance of High Hazard (SVHC)" to the Candidate List of Highly Hazardous Substances. This list is part of the EU Regulations for the Registration, Evaluation and Restriction of Chemicals and the addition is based on the revised classification of borax as Reproductive Category 1B toxic under the CLP Regulations. Once listed on this list, all substances and mixtures imported into the EU containing borax must be labeled with the warnings "May damage fertility" and "May damage the unborn child".

Lanolin (Lanoline)

Let's make a reservation right away - this high-quality component used in the manufacture of cosmetics is absolutely harmless to humans. But here's the problem - when using low-quality lanolin, which has been contaminated with pesticides, a powerful allergic reaction can develop, rashes will appear on the body.

DMDM Hydantoin

This substance serves as a preservative in cosmetics, it provides agents that have an antimicrobial effect and prolong the use and shelf life of cosmetics. The problem is that the same substance can cause allergic reactions, has an irritating effect not only on the skin, but also on the human respiratory tract, and negatively affects the condition of the mucous membranes.

Components in cosmetics of toxic action

Some cosmetic products also include toxic substances that can have a destructive effect on the entire body as a whole. Experts recommend completely abandoning the use of such cosmetics, or get advice from a cosmetologist about the correct use.

Methylisothiazolinone (MIT)

This drug has a powerful antibacterial effect and is used in the manufacture of liquid cosmetics - lotions, gels, shampoos, foams and more. But, according to certain scientists, it is this component that is capable of destroying nerve cells, including the brain. In fairness, it is worth noting that the results of these studies have been repeatedly disputed, however, the discussion is still relevant.

By the way, consumers often confuse the presented drug with Methylchoroisothiazolinone, but their actions are different - the latter only dries the skin and mucous membranes and does not affect nerve cells at all.

Triclosan

This tool belongs to the group of antibacterial, it can be used in the manufacture of soap or in toothpastes as an antiseptic. But the fact is that Triclosan can cause inflammation of the skin, has a toxic effect on hormonal balance and reproductive functions in general. Experts recommend using cosmetics with this component strictly according to the doctor's prescription.

Triethanolamine

It is used in order to achieve the desired pH level in cosmetics - everything seems to be within the acceptable range. But if you use cosmetics with such a component for a long time (this is mascara, sunscreen and nourishing creams), then the body's immune system will suffer, and there will be a negative effect on the skin and respiratory tract. There is evidence of an association of this substance with the risks of developing cancer.

Important: as in the case withDEA, the carcinogen is not MEA itself, but nitrosamine, a substance that is formed as a result of the chemical reaction of MEA with other chemically active substances.

Butylated Hydroxytoluene (or BHT)

This substance is strictly prohibited in some countries - for example, in Japan, Australia, USA, Sweden. Some manufacturers use this component as a preservative - it binds to oxygen and prevents the rapid oxidation of fats that make up cosmetics. Disputes around the carcinogenic effect of BHT are still ongoing.

Instead of a conclusion

All publications on the Web and loud statements from TV screens should be treated sensibly. Check the information before making any decisions. Products marked "ECO", "Organic", etc. are more expensive than the means we are used to, however, their safety and effectiveness, as a rule, are not confirmed by anything, as well as the harm of some components that are considered dangerous for some reason.

Some sources even list salicylic acid as a carcinogen. But no studies on this subject have been published over the past few years, which means that such an opinion is hardly worth trusting. Of course, salicylic acid can have a negative effect on the skin - it dries it a lot, which provokes the appearance of early wrinkles and areas of irritation, but this is not a reason to talk about its carcinogenic effect.

Within the framework of one article, unfortunately, it is impossible to cover absolutely all the harmful components that may be part of cosmetics. Therefore, we recommend that you visit a beautician and consult with him about the use of a particular cosmetic product. Moreover, such advice applies not only to synthetic products, but also to those made on natural ingredients - too often even they cause allergic reactions. When it comes to choosing funds for children, especially the first year of life, you need to listen to the advice of a pediatrician.

If you are interested in your well-being and health, we advise you to always check the content of the cosmetics you use. It is desirable that they have a natural basis and do not contain components that can harm your body. Below is a detailed description of 15 popular cosmetic ingredients, followed by a more extensive catalog of cosmetics.

A

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer - With synthetic component. Film former.

Acrylatescopolymer- synthetic component. A antistatic, binding agent, film former.

Aetznatron- cm . (sodium hydrogen sulfate).

albumin (albumin)- the main ingredient in compositions that tighten the skin of the face. Advertised as an anti-wrinkle product. “... the last case of initiation of a serious case regarding customer complaints occurred in the 60s. Both of these drugs were wrinkle removers. The formulation contained bovine serum albumin which, when dried, formed a film over the wrinkles and made them less visible..."

Allantoin (Glyoxyl-diureide, Comfrey root extract) - With synthetic component derived from urea or grass comfreyby oxidizing uric acid. This uric acid oxidation product is found in allantoic and amniotic fluids, fetal urine, and some plants.

It has the property of softening the skin (keratolytic effect) and cell regeneration by depositing proteins on the skin. It is also used as an abrasive and astringent in the final product, including cosmetic lotions, creams, shampoos, lipsticks and various aerosols, as well as oral care, eye and ear drops.

Alcohol Denat- made by fermentation from carbohydrates or synthesized from petroleum. Solvent. Sign " Dangerous ».

Alpha Hydrax Acids (Alpha hydroxy acids) - lactic and other acids is a discovery in the field of skin care cosmetics. AHAs act as a means of exfoliating old cells from the surface of the skin and leaving only fresh young cells on it. The skin looks young and not so wrinkled.

However, scientists believe that by removing the outer layer of dead cells, we also remove the first and most important layer of the skin, as a result of which harmful environmental factors penetrate it faster and deeper. As a result, the skin ages prematurely.

Aluminum (Aluminum)- increases the risk of cancer of the throat and mouth.

Amprolene- cm . ( Ethylene oxide).

Anprolene- cm . ( Ethylene oxide).

Anproline- cm . ( Ethylene oxide).

Aroma Dangerous ».

Arosol- cm . .

Ascarite- cm . ( hydrosulphatesodium).

B

5-bromo-5-nitro-1,3-dioxane- Cm ..

Cm ..

Bentonite (Bentonite)is a natural mineral that is included in face masks. It differs from ordinary clay in that, when mixed with a liquid, it forms a gel. Bentonite particles can have sharp edges and scratch the skin.

It is used in preparations and masks, forming gas-tight films. Intensively retains toxins and carbon dioxide, preventing the skin from breathing and excreting waste products. Suffocates the skin, cutting off the supply of oxygen. Most bentonites dry out the skin.

Benzylhemiformal- Cm .

Benzyl Salicylate- With

Beta-hydroxyethyl phenyl ether - cm . .

Bisabolol- there are synthetic forms, but, basically, it is obtained from the plant Chamomilla recutita (chamomile). Purpose - additive. Marked with " Dangerous ».

BHT- synthetic component. A antioxidant. Marked with " Dangerous ».

Butane (Butane)- aerosol propellant. Easily flammable, in large doses it has narcotic and asphyxiating properties.

Butilparaben- synthetic component. preservative. Marked with " Dangerous ».

C

C9-15 Fluoro- Alcohol- Information not found.

C12-15 Alkyloctanoate- a mixture of synthetic components derived from petroleum. Purpose - softener.

CI 14700 ( FD& CRed №4) E 124, Ponceau SX, FD&C Red #four). Red dye. Marked with " Dangerous ».

CI 17200- dye (red color). Synthetic nitrogen dye and reddish pigment (D&C Red #31, Acid Red 33). Marked with " Dangerous ».

CI 19140 (FD&C Yellow #4)- Synthetic nitrogen dye ( E 102, Tartrazine, FD&C Yellow #5). Yellow dye. Marked with " Dangerous ».

C.I. 77491 III ) (ferric oxide, diiron trioxide). Red dye.

CI 77492- artificially obtained iron oxide ( II ) (ferrous oxide). Yellow dye.

CI 77499- artificially obtained iron oxide ( III, II) (iron (II,III) oxide, diiron trioxide ). Black dye.

CI 77891 - natural mineral rutile (titanium dioxide). Often produced artificially. White dye.

Calendula officinalis- oils obtained from calendula or marigolds. Softener, humidifier. Marked with the sign " Dangerous ».

Carbomer- synthetic component (polymer). Emulsion stabilizer, viscosity regulator.

Caustic soda- cm . ( hydrosulphatesodium).

Cellulosegum- a semi-synthetic component extracted from cellulose, which is obtained from plant materials. Coupling agent, emulsion stabilizer, film former, viscosity regulator.

Cera Alba- wax obtained from honeycombs. Composed of high molecular weight carbohydrates, cerotic and palmitic acids and esters. Emulsifier, moisturizer, softener, film former. Marked with " Dangerous ».

Cera Microcrystallina- various types of wax obtained from oil. Coupling agent, emulsion stabilizer, opacifier, viscosity regulator.

Ceteareth-6- a semi-synthetic component derived from fatty acids and ethylene oxide ( c m.). Emulsifier. Marked with " Dangerous ».

Chamomila Recutita - oils derived from chamomile Matricaria recutita) or umbilical field, a short, flowering plant of the Compositae family. This ingredient is often confused with chamomile extract ( Chamomile recutita extract ). Softener, humidifier. Marked with the sign " Dangerous ».

Cheladrate- cm . .

Chelaplex III- cm . .

Chelaton III- cm . .

FROMitnatin- cm . .

FROMitrene- cm . .

Citric Acid (citric acid) - natural extract from citrus fruits. Control of pH , gelatin component, exfoliating agent. Marked with " Dangerous ».

Citrosodine- cm . .

Cocamidopropyl Betaine (Cocamidopropyl Betaine ) - Produced from the fatty acids of coconut oil. Serves as a surfactant. Marked with " Dangerous ».

Collagen (Collagen) -P obtained from the skins of cattle and chicken feet. Some companies insist that collagen can improve the skin's own collagen structure. Others advertise that it is absorbed by the epidermis and moisturizes the skin.

Collagen is a protein - the main part of the structural network of our skin. It is believed that with age, it begins to break down, and the skin becomes thin and flabby. The use of collagen is potentially harmful because the large size of collagen molecules (molecular weight - 30,000 units) prevents it from penetrating into the skin.

Instead of being beneficial, it settles on the surface of the skin, clogging pores and preventing water from evaporating, just like industrial oil. It's about the same as playing tennis with a soccer ball.

Collagen used in cosmetics is obtained by scraping from the skins of cattle or from the underside of the paws of birds. Even if it penetrates the skin, its molecular composition and biochemistry are different from human, and it cannot be used by the skin.

Note:collagen injections are used in plastic surgery to inject under the skin and smooth out wrinkles by creating swelling. But the body perceives such collagen as a foreign body and removes it within a year. Therefore, additional injections are required every 6-12 months to maintain the appearance.

Collo Grill Rein- cm . ( hydrosulphatesodium).

Collo Tapetta- cm . ( hydrosulphatesodium).

Complexon III- cm . .

Coumarin- P coumarin derivatives - found in herbs and citrus peels. Pure coumarin is found in clover. It has a simple chemical structure and is often prepared by synthetic methods. Other names: Cumarin or Benzopyrone . Additive, fragrance. Marked with " Dangerous ».

Cyclomethicone- synthetic silicone oil. Antistatic agent, moisturizer, solvent, viscosity regulator, emollient (softener), which improves the distribution of a cosmetic product over the skin or hair, eliminates the effect of stickiness, has a protective effect, forming a thin protective film on the skin or hair.

D

Diazolidinyl urea- cm . .

Diathanolamine ( DEA) (Diethanolamine)- foaming surfactant (surfactant) ( surfactant ). A potential carcinogen that combines with nitrates to form carcinogenic nitrosamines.

Diethanolamine (DEA)is a semi-synthetic chemical used to create foam and thicken various cosmetic preparations. It is also used in dishwashing detergents due to its ability to remove grease. Can dry hair and skin, cause itching, and also, allergic reactions.

Dihydrooxirene- cm. ( Ethylene oxide).

Dimethylene oxide- cm . ( Ethylene oxide).

Dimethicone- synthetic silicone polymer. It is used as a defoamer, softener, moisturizer. Sign " Dangerous ».

Disodium dihydrogen ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid - see see .

Disodium EDTA- or cheladrate, chelaplex III, chelaton III, complexon III, disodium dihydrogen ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, disodium EDTA, disodium edetate, disodium edathamil, disodium versene, EDTA disodium salt, kiresuto B, complexon III, metaquest B, perma kleer 50 crystals disodium salt, perma kleer di crystals, selekton B2, sequestrene sodium 2, titriplex III, trilon B, trilon BD, triplex III.Molecular formula: C 10 H 16 N 2 O 8 Na 2

synthetic component. Gelatin agent, viscosity regulator. Harmful if this substance is swallowed, inhaled, or if it is absorbed into the skin. Irritating to the respiratory tract and skin. Marked with " Dangerous ».

Disodium edetate- cm . .

Disodium edathamil- cm . .

Disodium versene- cm . .

Disodium Phosphate- synthetic component. Control of pH .

Distarch Phosphate - a synthetic component derived from starch. It is often referred to as "modified starch". binding agent.

DMDM Hydantoin (Formalin) - P Do you remember your first visit to a museum of natural sciences, where jars filled with a transparent liquid were lined up in the windows, in which strange creatures floated or twisted embryos sat? Later, you learned that the liquid that retains these fragments of former life is called formalin.

Its antimicrobial and preservative properties are so strong that embryos, organs or small animals are stored in these jars for many years, practically without spoiling. And you also learned that this liquid smells very bad and is extremely poisonous, therefore, you can’t drink it, although it looks like alcohol. And of course, the last thing that could come to your mind is to apply formalin to the skin. However, many people do just that without knowing it.

The fact is that formalin is a very good preservative agent not only for museum exhibits, but also for any other products. In particular, as it turned out, it effectively protects cosmetics from microbes. The only bad thing is that not only microbes, but also living cells suffer from formalin, especially since it easily penetrates the skin.

If there is very, very little formalin in cosmetics, it most likely will not cause much damage, but its preservative power will be less. Taken in a higher concentration, it alone is able to keep the cream as reliably as an embryo in a jar, however, the benefits of such cosmetics will be doubtful.

Each manufacturer using formalin in cosmetics solves this problem according to his own interests - if it is more important for him that the product is stored longer, he takes more formalin, if the condition of the skin of cosmetics consumers is more important to him, he ... probably chooses a different preservative.

However, cosmetics manufacturers still do not have complete freedom of choice, since it is possible to increase the concentration of formalin in cosmetics only up to a certain limit. For example, in Europe, its maximum allowable concentration is0,2 %, while if the concentration is more0,05 %, the cosmetics manufacturer must write on the label: "Attention, this product contains formalin."

Of course, the presence of formalin in the list of ingredients does not add to the attractiveness of the cosmetic product. Therefore, most often, not free formalin is added to cosmetics, but substances that release formalin, already in cosmetics. it:

5-bromo-5-nitro-1,3-dioxane

? 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol

Imidazolidinyl urea

Methenamine

Quaternium-15

DMDM hydantoin

Diazolidinyl urea

benzylhemiformal

The maximum allowable concentration of these substances in cosmetics is calculated in such a way that the amount of formalin released from them does not exceed 0.2%. There are methods that measure the amount of formalin released by each of these preservatives.

However, the rate of release of formalin and its amount are highly dependent on the formulation, temperature and storage time. In a jar of cream that sits on a shelf in a stuffy and humid bathroom for months, formalin can be released so intensely that its concentration will be much higher than that which cosmetic manufacturers were guided by.

The four preservatives on this list are known to beimidazolidinyl urea , diazolidinyl urea , sodium hydroxymethyl glycinate and benzylhemiformal - formalin is released especially quickly. And two of them -imidazolidinyl urea and diazolidinyl urea - form several isomers of formalin, the concentration of which is very difficult to determine.

According to experts from SCCNFP (Scientific Committee on Cosmetics and Non-Food Products - Scientific Committee Cosmetic and Non-Food Products), when using the maximum allowable concentration of these substances, the amount of free formalin released from them may exceed the allowable0,2 %. Marked with " Dangerous ».

DowanolEP- cm . .

Dowanol EPH- cm . .

E

1,2-epoxyethane- cm . ( Ethylene oxide).

EDTA disodium salt- cm . .

Elastinofhigh- molecularWeight(Elastin)- an ingredient advertised as useful for skin and hair care. This substance is the structure that holds the skin cells in place. It is believed that with age, elastin molecules are destroyed, and thus wrinkles are formed. In order to restore the skin, many cosmetic companies introduce elastin into their preparations.

Like collagen, elastin is derived from bovine tissue, and it also forms a suffocating film on the skin due to its high molecular weight. Elastin cannot penetrate the skin and, even when injected, does not perform its function due to an inappropriate molecular structure.

Human elastin is very different in structure from animal elastin. There are some varieties of elastin called "cross-linked elastin". However, these altered elastin molecules are too large to penetrate the skin and are also structurally incompatible.

Emery 6705- cm . .

ENT-26263- cm . ( Ethylene oxide).

EO- cm . ( Ethylene oxide).

Epoxyethane- cm . ( Ethylene oxide).

Ethylene glycol monophenyl ether - cm . .

Ethylene glycol phenyl ether- cm . .

Ethene oxide (Ethylene oxide) or : amprolene, anprolene, anproline, dihydrooxirene, dimethylene oxide, ENT-26263, EO, epoxyethane, 1,2-epoxyethane, ethene oxide, oxacyclopropane, oxirane, oxirene, oxyfume, T-gas).Molecular formula: C2H4O.

Stable when isolated, but rapidly reacts with water, bases, corrosive metals, acids, alcohols, alkali metals, ammonia, reactive metals and their salts. Very flammable. Explosive on contact with air.

Carcinogenic, mutagenic, dangerous for reproductive function, toxic. Strong irritant. Sensitizer. Toxic by inhalation, ingestion and in contact with skin. Marked with " Dangerous ».

Ethoxydiglycol- With synthetic component. Humidifier, solvent.

Ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate-c synthetic component. UV absorber.

F

Farnesylacetate- a derivative of farnesol, a natural plant extract (about it - below). Purpose - additive.

Farnesol(Farnesol)- a natural component obtained from various essential oils, especially from oils obtained from Acacia farnesaina (acacia). Purpose - additive, flavoring.

Fotofoil etchant- cm . ( hydrosulphatesodium).

G

Glycerin (vegetable glycerin)- obtained, as a by-product, in the production of refined vegetable oils. It is used in the composition of cosmetic products as a natural moisturizing complex to regulate the water content in the stratum corneum.

Advertised as a beneficial moisturizer.It is a clear, syrupy liquid obtained by the chemical combination of water and fat. Water separates the fat into smaller components - glycerol and fatty acids.

This improves the penetration of creams and lotions and prevents them from losing moisture through evaporation. But, recent studies have shown that, at air humidity below 65%, glycerin sucks water out of the skin to the full depth and keeps it on the surface instead of taking moisture from the air. Thus, it makes dry skin even drier.

Glycine Soja- R Various extracts and derivatives from soybeans, including soy flour, soybean oil, and soy-derived proteins and amino acids ( Soja hispida ). There is a possibility of their genetic modification or contamination with genetically modified material. natural supplement, softener, moisturizer.

Glycol Distearate- With synthetic polymer derived from glycol, a petrochemical product, and fatty acids. Emulsifier, humidifier, softener, silencer, viscosity regulator.

Glycol monophenylether- cm . .

H

Hexyl Cinnamal- pale yellow liquid. Aromatic additive. Molecular formula C 15 H 20 O. Allergen .

HydratedSilica- silicic acid obtained from the mineral silica (silicon dioxide). Abrasive, absorbent, silencer, viscosity regulator.

Hydrogenated Polydecene (Polydecene hydrogenated) - Synthetic extra pure oil, promotes easy distribution of cosmetic products on the skin, softens it. It is used in the food industry, in the manufacture of sweets. Trade name Nexbize 2008 FG.

Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaidehyde - trademark Lyral ® is a colorless liquid with a floral scent with a note of lily of the valley. Molecular formula C 13 H 22 O 2. Aromatic additive. Allergen . Causes allergic reactions in people with eczema.

I

Imidazolidinyl urea- Cm . .

Isobutilparaben Dangerous ».

Isopropyl Palmitate- With synthetic component derived from fatty acids. Antistatic, binder, softener, moisturizer, solvent. Marked with " Dangerous ».

Isopropylparaben- synthetic component. preservative. Parabens - esters of para-hydroxybenzoic acid and alcohols: methyl - methylparaben, ethyl - ethylparaben, propyl - propylparaben, etc., are used as a preservative, differ in the severity of antimicrobial activity. Marked with " Dangerous ».

J

K

Kaolin (Kaolin)- This is a natural clay of fine structure (got its name from the Kaolin deposit in China), which has a drying effect. Dehydrates the skin. In addition, kaolin can be contaminated with various harmful impurities. It is used in masks and as a base in tonal creams. Intensively retains carbon dioxide and toxins in the skin, depriving it of vital oxygen.

Kiresuto B- cm . .

Complexon III- cm . .

L

Lanolin- obtained by cleaning the fat left after processing the sheared sheep's wool. It is a pale yellow substance, similar to wax.

Lanolin often causes allergic reactions due to the peculiarities of its origin. Lanolin is a purified fat-like substance secreted by the skin glands of sheep, which open ducts into the hair follicles.

Water, after washing the wool, is centrifuged. The rest is treated in a special way. Lanolin is used not only as a basis for a cream, but as a substance that improves skin circulation and stimulates regeneration.

Advertisers have found that the words "contains lanolin" (it is advertised as a beneficial moisturizer) help sell products, and, in this regard, began to claim that "it is able to penetrate the skin like no other oil", although, for There is not enough scientific evidence for this. Studies have found that lanolin causes skin sensitization, and even an allergic rash upon contact.

linalool- n A natural aromatic component that exists in some aromatic oils such as lavender, bergamot and coriander oils. Deodorant additive.

Lauramide Dea (Loramide Dea) is a semi-synthetic chemical used to create foam and thicken various cosmetic preparations. It is also used in dishwashing detergents due to its ability to remove grease. Can dry out hair and skin, causing itching and also, allergic reactions .

Lauroullysine- a synthetic component obtained by chemical modification of lauric acid, a natural fatty acid, and lysine, an amino acid. Purpose - viscosity regulator.

Layryl Polyglucose - a semi-synthetic component extracted from fatty acids. Serves as a surfactant.

Lewis red devil lye- cm . ( hydrosulphatesodium).

Lye- cm . ( hydrosulphatesodium).

Lyral- cm . .

M

Methylpolysilsesquioxane- Information not found.

methylparaben,Dangerous ».

Metaquest B- cm . .

Methenamine- c m. .

Mica- mica. mica. It is a mineral that can be split into very thin plates. These plates are so thin that 1000 pieces take up 1 inch. Mica can be transparent, black, green, red, yellow and brown. The transparent mica is called "Moskvich" because it was found near Moscow in Russia and was used as window panes. "Moskvich" contains water, which makes it transparent. Biotite mica is dark green to black because it contains iron and magnesium.

Mica is mined in Brazil, India, Africa, Canada and the USA. It is used in the manufacture of electronic and electrical appliances.

At present, mica windows are still used in cast iron stoves, but most mica is used as an insulator in electrical equipment.

Mineral oil (Mineral oil)

In addition, it prevents the penetration of oxygen. May cause the symptom of dry skin by inhibiting natural moisturizing mechanisms. Marked with " Dangerous ».

N

NAOH- cm . ( hydrosulphatesodium).

Natrocitral- cm . .

O

0leum vaselini (Vaseline oil) - antistatic agent, softener, moisturizer, solvent.

This ingredient is derived from petroleum. It is a mixture of liquid hydrocarbons separated from gasoline. It is used in industry for lubrication and as a solvent liquid. When used in cosmetics as a humectant, technical oil forms a water-repellent film and locks moisture into the skin.

It is believed that by retaining moisture in the skin, you can make it softer, smoother and look younger. The truth is that the technical oil film retains not only water, but also toxins, carbon dioxide, waste and waste products that are excreted through the skin.

Dangerous ».

Oxacyclopropane- cm . ( Ethylene oxide).

Oxirane- Molecular formula: C2H4O.

Stable when isolated, but quickly reacts with water, bases, corrosive metals, acids, alcohols, alkali metals, ammonia, reactive metals and their salts. Very flammable. Explosive on contact with air.

Dangerous ».

Oxirene- cm. ( Ethylene oxide).

Oxyfume- cm. ( Ethylene oxide).

P

1-hydroxy-2-phenoxyethane- cm . .

2-phenoxyethanol- cm . .

2-hydroxy-1,2,3-propanetricarboxylic acid trisodium salt - cm . .

Palmitate -salt of palmitic (hexadecanoic) acid. Antioxidant. Vitamin A component. Added to skimmed milk to make up for vitamin deficiencies due to skimming. Palmitate (better known as retinol palmitate) contains palmitic acid- saturated fatty acid, which is the main fatty acid found in palm oil. Palmitic acid is added to the alcohol form of vitamin A, called retinol, to keep vitamin A stable in milk.

Panthenol- pro-vitamin B 5. Antistatic, humidifier.

Panthenyltriacetate- a semi-synthetic component derived from panthenol (pro-vitamin B5). Purpose - antistatic.

Paraffinum Liquidum (Vaseline oil, mineral oil) - antistatic agent, softener, moisturizer, solvent

This ingredient is derived from petroleum. It is a mixture of liquid hydrocarbons separated from gasoline. It is used in industry for lubrication and as a solvent liquid. When used in cosmetics as a humectant, technical oil forms a water-repellent film and locks moisture into the skin.

It is believed that by retaining moisture in the skin, you can make it softer, smoother and look younger. The truth is that the technical oil film retains not only water, but also toxins, carbon dioxide, waste and waste products that are excreted through the skin.

In addition, it prevents the penetration of oxygen. Marked with " Dangerous ».

perfume- in cosmetics, a mixture of odors is usually used, mainly of synthetic origin. Marked with " Dangerous ».

PEG (Poly-ethylene glycol)- a synthetic component, often obtained by chemical modification of natural substances. Widely used in cosmetics and toiletries. Has a wide range of applications. Sign " Dangerous ».

PEG-14M- With synthetic polymer derived from ethylene oxide. Binding agent, emulsifier, viscosity regulator.

PEG-75 Lanolin- a synthetic polymer derived from ethylene oxide and lanolin. Softener, moisturizer, emulsifier, surfactant.

Lanolin is obtained by refining the fat left after processing sheared sheep's wool. It is a pale yellow substance, similar to wax.

Ethylene oxide (or: amprolene, anprolene, anproline, dihydrooxirene, dimethylene oxide, ENT-26263, EO, epoxyethane, 1,2-epoxyethane, ethene oxide, oxacyclopropane, oxirane, oxirene, oxyfume, T-gas)

Molecular formula: C2H4O.

Stable when isolated, but quickly reacts with water, bases, corrosive metals, acids, alcohols, alkali metals, ammonia, reactive metals and their salts. Very flammable. Explosive on contact with air.

Carcinogenic, mutagenic, dangerous for reproductive function, toxic. Strong irritant. Sensitizer. Toxic by inhalation, ingestion and in contact with skin. Marked with " Dangerous ».

PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate- With synthetic polymer derived from ethylene oxide, fatty acids and sorbitan (sugar). surfactant. Marked with " Dangerous ».

PEG-150 Distearate- With synthetic polymer derived from ethylene oxide and fatty acids. Emulsifier, surfactant, viscosity regulator. Marked with " Dangerous ».

Pentaerythrityltetraoctanoate- a synthetic component derived from fatty acids. Purpose - softener, humidifier, viscosity regulator.

Perfluoroalkylphosphate - information not found.

Perma kleer 50 crystals disodium salt - cm . .

Perma kleer di crystals- cm . .

PH

pH stands for the strength of the hydrogen atom. Human skin and hair do not have a pH. pH is measured in units from 0 to 14 and is used to measure the acidity or alkalinity of solutions (pH=7 - neutral). Acidity increases as pH decreases and alkalinity increases as pH increases.

Generally, the pH of cosmetic products does not change the natural pH of the skin and hair because they contain keratin, fatty acids and other substances that "adjust" to the pH level they come into contact with. And if the pH is not very high or low, then there are no problems with cosmetics.

Naturally, high pH solutions and hair conditioners can damage hair and skin, but even this is rare if the right conditioners and moisturizers are used afterwards. There are no "pH-balanced" products, as some manufacturers claim.

While the drug is in the bottle, its pH does not concern anyone, and its harmful effect is manifested only when applied to the skin or hair. The pH of the product itself is not harmful, much more harmful are the chemicals that are used to affect the pH and please lovers of "balanced" products stories.

Phenoxetol- cm . .

Phenoxyethanol- or : arosol, dowanol EP, dowanol EPH, emery 6705 , beta-hydroxyethyl phenyl ether.Molecular formula: C8H10O2.

synthetic component. Preservative, antiseptic, insect repellent, solvent for cellulose acetate, dyes, ink and rubber.

Harmful if this substance is swallowed, inhaled, or if it is absorbed into the skin. May cause reproductive defects. Irritating to eyes and skin. Marked with " Dangerous ».

Phenoxyethyl alcohol- cm . .

Phenylmonoglycol ether- cm . .

Poloxamer 407is a synthetic polymer derived from ethylene oxide and propylene oxide. Emulsifier, surfactant. Marked with " Dangerous ».

Polydecene- synthetic polymer (plastic). bonding agent.

Polyperfluorisopropylether- synthetic polymer (plastic). Purpose - additive.

Polyquarternium-7- synthetic cationic (positively charged) polymer obtained from organic components containing nitrogen. Serves as an antistatic agent.

PotassiumChloride (potassium chloride)- synthetic component. Viscosity regulator. Marked with " Dangerous ».

Potential Health Risks: Inhalation of potassium chloride powder may cause irritation to the lungs and nasal passages.

When ingested, large amounts of the substance may cause irritation of the gastrointestinal tract and vomiting. May cause weakness and circulatory problems. May affect the heart. In severe cases, it can lead to death.

Contact with skin, especially damp skin, may cause irritation.

In case of contact with eyes, it may cause irritation: redness, watery eyes.

The most susceptible are people with kidney dysfunction.

PPG-10 Cetyl Ether- a synthetic component derived from methyl oxirane (propylene oxide ), petroleum product and fatty alcohols. Emulsifier, surfactant.

Propyleneis an olefin molecule. Chemical formula C 3 H 6. Produced from natural gas

an olefinmolecule of chemical formula C 3 H 6 produced from natural gas liquids and refinery streams in steam crackers. Chevron Phillips Chemical uses propylene internally to manufacturepolyethylene, alpha olefins, and styrene and sells it to external customers who produce these and other materials such as polyester, acrylics, ethylene glycol antifreeze, polyvinyl chloride (PVC), propylene oxide, oxo alcohols, and isopropanol.

propylene glycol (Propylene Glycol)- derived petroleum product, dihydric alcohol, sweet caustic liquid. In cosmetics, it is widely used in creams, moisturizers, because. attracts and binds water. It is cheaper than glycerin, but causes more allergic reactions and irritation. Causes the formation of acne. It is believed that it gives the skin a youthful appearance.

Its proponents are conducting research to prove that propylene glycol is a safe and effective ingredient. However, NEWAYS scientists believe that it is harmful to the skin for the following reasons:

1. In industry, it is used as an antifreeze, in water cooling systems and as a brake fluid. On the skin, it gives a feeling of smoothness and oiliness, but this is achieved by displacing components important for skin health.

2. By binding liquid, propylene glycol displaces water at the same time. The skin can't use it, it functions with water, not antifreeze.

3. Data from the safety study (MSDS) of propylene glycol show that its contact with the skin can cause liver damage and kidney damage. In cosmetics, a typical formulation includes 10-20% propylene glycol (note that propylene glycol is usually one of the first ingredients on the list of ingredients, which indicates its high concentration).

4. In January 1991, the American Academy of Dermatology published a clinical review regarding the association of dermatitis with propylene glycol. He proved that propylene glycol causes a large number of reactions and is one of the main skin irritants even in low concentrations. Marked with " Dangerous ».

Propylene Terephthalate- synthetic component. Product of the oil refining industry. Prepared from ethylene glycol and terephthalic acid ( terephthalic acid).

Propylparaben- parabens - esters of para-hydroxybenzoic acid and alcohols: methyl - methylparaben, ethyl - ethylparaben, propyl - propylparaben, etc., are used as a preservative, differ in the severity of antimicrobial activity. Sign " Dangerous ».

Prunus Armeniaca- oil obtained from apricot kernels. Emulsifier, moisturizer.

Q

Quaternium-15- cm . .

R

rose ether- cm . .

Royal bee jelly (royal jelly) - advertised as a nourishing and moisturizing agent. This substance is found in bee hives. It is produced by the digestive tract of worker bees. Drones and worker bees feed on it for only a few days after birth, and the queen - all her life.

Due to the fact that royal jelly is associated with the health and longevity of the uterus, there is a prejudice that it has the ability to delay aging. This is not true. Scientific studies of the properties of royal jelly were carried out, as a result of which scientists came to a consensus: it is useless for humans.

Anyone who claims that it has special power is a deceiver. Eggs, milk, honey and royal jelly are favorite ingredients for some moisturizer manufacturers. There are no words, eggs are really nutritious for embryos, milk is for children, royal jelly is nectar for bees. However, if you slather them on your skin, it won't do much, although it does give the moisturizers that contain them a more "juicy" look and feel softer to the touch.

Royal jelly is widely touted as a magical ingredient in cosmetics that restores youthfulness to the skin. Two weeks after storage, royal jelly ceases to be nutritious even for the queen bee, but even fresh does not give any positive effects in cosmetic preparations.

S

Seaweed (agar-agar)- advertised as nourishing and moisturizing the skin. This plant has gelatinous properties. A widely used ingredient for liquid transparent masks that are perceived as one. These masks allow the skin to accumulate a supply of water. Agar-agar is also included in some creams and lotions, to which it gives density, but not to the skin.

Selecton B2- cm . .

Sequestrene sodium 2- cm . .

Silica ( silicon) is a natural mineral found in quartz and sand. Abrasive element, absorbent, silencer, viscosity regulator.

soda lye- cm . ( hydrosulphatesodium).

Sodium C12-13 Pareth Sulfate- a synthetic component extracted from oil and ethylene oxide. Serves as an emulsifier. Marked with " Dangerous ».

Sodium Citrate (sodium citrate dihydrate)- or: trisodium citrate, sodium citrate, 2-hydroxy-1,2,3-propanetricarboxylic acid trisodium salt, citnatin, citrosodine, citrene, natrocitral . Molecular formula: C 6 H 8 O 7 Na 3 2 H 2 O.

The semi-synthetic component is the sodium salt of citrus acid, obtained from citrus fruits. Control of pH , gelatin component. May be an irritant.

SodiumFluoride(sodium fluoride)- a synthetic component in the form of white crystals. It is used for oral care, as an antibacterial agent. The active part of the molecule is the fluoride ion. Fluorides reduce the ability of bacteria to produce acids and also remineralize areas of the tooth that have been affected by the acids produced by the bacteria. Marked with " Dangerous ».

Sodium fluoride - very dangerous . May be fatal if inhaled or swallowed. The first symptoms of poisoning are nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and weakness. Later - damage to the central nervous and cardiovascular systems, death.

It affects the respiratory system, heart, bones, circulatory system, central nervous system and kidneys. Causes skin, eye and respiratory tract irritation. Irritation may not come immediately.

If inhaled, causes severe irritation of the respiratory tract. Symptoms - cough, sore throat, difficulty breathing. Irritation may not come immediately.

When taken internally, it is toxic! May cause salivation, nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and stomach pain. Weakness, trembling, labored breathing, heart attack, convulsions and coma. It can affect the brain and kidneys, the cardiovascular system. Death can occur as a result of paralysis of the respiratory tract. The approximate lethal dose is 5-10 grams.

On contact with skin, causes irritation, redness, pain. Solutions are corrosive. The consequences may not appear immediately.

Contact with eyes causes irritation and serious damage to the eyes. The consequences may not appear immediately.

Chronic exposure to sodium fluoride can cause mottled teeth, damage bones(osteosclerosis) and fluorosis. The symptoms of the latter are brittle bones, weight loss, anemia, hardening (liming) of the ligaments, deterioration in the general condition of the inflexibility of the joints.

People with diabetes and kidney failure are especially susceptible to sodium fluoride.

Sodium Carbomer- a soluble synthetic component derived from polyacrylic acid. Viscosity regulator.

SodiumChloride (chloride Na) - used to increase the viscosity of some drugs. In high concentrations, it can cause irritation of the skin and mucous eyes.

sodium hydrate- cm . ( hydrosulphatesodium).

sodium hydroxide (hydrosulphatesodium) - or : caustic soda, soda lye, lye, white caustic, aetznatron, ascarite, Collo-Grillrein, Collo-Tapetta, sodium hydrate, fotofoil etchant, NAOH, STCC 4935235, sodium hydroxide pellets, Lewis red devil lye.Molecular formula: NaOH.

Synthetic component, which is a strong alkali (caustic soda). Control of pH , denaturator. Very corrosive, leaves severe burns. May cause serious eye damage. It is very dangerous if it enters the gastrointestinal tract. Harmful in contact with skin or if inhaled. Marked with " Dangerous ».

Sodium hydroxide pellets- cm . ( hydrosulphatesodium).

Sodium hydroximethyl glycinate - cm . .

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) (Sodium lauryl sulfate) - no one advertises this ingredient, and for good reason. It is an inexpensive detergent derived from coconut oil and is widely used in cosmetic cleaners, shampoos, bath and shower gels, bath foamers, and the like.

Perhaps this is most dangerous ingredient in hair and skin care products.

In industry, SLS is used in garage floor cleaners, engine degreasers, car washes, etc. It is a very highly corrosive agent and does remove grease from surfaces. SLS is widely used in all clinics of the world for experiments, as a skin irritability tester.

Researchers use SLS to irritate the skin of animals and humans, and then treat the irritated areas with various drugs. Recent studies at the Medical College of the University of Georgia have shown that SLS penetrates the eyes, as well as the brain, heart, liver, etc. and stays there.

This is especially dangerous for children, in whose tissues it accumulates in high concentrations.

These studies also show that SLS alters the protein composition of children's eye cells and delays the development of these children, causing cataracts.

SLS cleanses by oxidizing, leaving an irritating film on body skin and hair.

It can contribute to hair loss, dandruff, acting on the hair follicles. Hair dries out, becomes brittle and split at the ends.

Another serious problem is the association of SLS with carcinogenic dioxins and nitrates. SLS reacts with many cosmetic ingredients to form nitrosamines (nitrates). These nitrates enter the bloodstream in large quantities when washing with shampoos and gels, taking baths and using cleansers.

Many companies often disguise their products with SLS as natural, indicating " derived from coconuts».

Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) - an ingredient similar in properties to SLS (an ester chain has been added). The number one ingredient in cleansers and shampoos. It is very cheap and thickens when salt is added. Forms a lot of foam and gives the illusion that it is thick, concentrated and expensive. This is a rather weak detergent. Used as a wetting agent in the textile industry. SLES reacts with other ingredients and forms dioxins in addition to nitrates.

Sodium phosphate - synthetic component. Purpose - control overpH.

Sodium Saccharin - synthetic component. An artificial sweetener used in oral care products.

Sorbitol (Sorbitol) - six-hydric aliphatic alcohol, a white crystalline substance with a sweet taste. Found in seaweed, rowan juice, starchy fruits. Hygroscopic.

In cosmetic preparations, it is used as a moisturizing ingredient. In recipes, it successfully replaces glycerin, glycols. It is used in a wide range of cosmetic products: moisturizers, masks, liquid powder, makeup base, toothpastes, aftershave lotions, deodorants, antiperspirants, blush, shampoos, gels.

Soy lecithin – cm. .

STCC 4935235 - cm. ( hydrosulphate sodium ).

Stearic acid (Stearic acid) or octadecanoic acid. White scaly mass. Insoluble in water, poorly soluble in ether, benzene, chloroform, ethanol. Widely distributed in natural fats and oils, one of the main fatty acids in human tissues.

It is found in the free form in the secretion of the sebaceous glands. It is obtained from natural fats and oils, mainly from beef fat. As part of stearin, it is used in emulsion creams, as a structure-forming and emulsifying component.

Stearyl Alcohol - fatty alcohol obtained by chemical reduction of stearic acid obtained from beef fat. Emulsifier, softener, humectant, emulsion stabilizer, opacifier, viscosity regulator. Marked with " Dangerous ».

T

Talc - a natural mineral from the group of layered silicates, usually white or light green, sometimes brown, gray, yellow, blue or pink; greasy to the touch. Insoluble in water, mineral acids. Contains oxides of silicon and magnesium, impurities of iron, nickel or calcium salts, as well as water. It occurs in the form of leafy, scaly, radially radiant, less often fibrous aggregates. In cosmetics, it is used as part of powders and powders, blush, dry shadows.INCI TalWith

T-gas - cm. ( Ethylene oxide ).

Terephthalic Acid - In its highly pure form, it is known as PTA (Purified Terephthalic Acid).TPA is a chemical intermediate that is used to produce PET resin and other polyester materials. TPA is the primary consumer ofp -xylene

Tetrapotassium Pyrophosphate (potassium pyrophosphate) (K 4 P 2 O 7 ) - a substance in the form of colorless or white crystals or powder. Soluble in water. Emulsifier, texture improver. It is an active ingredient in detergents, both industrial and household. Used in toothpastes. Marked with " Dangerous ».

A potential health risk is associated with powder inhalation. The substance may be corrosive to the eyes, skin and respiratory tract.

Tetrasodium EDTA - an agent that binds heavy metal ions (mainly iron), while helping to avoid discoloration.

Titanium Dioxide ( CI 77891) (titanium dioxide)- a contrast agent with good whitening properties. It is used to impart white color and opacity to cosmetic products.

Titriplex III - cm. .

Tocopheryl Acetate ( Tocopherol , vitamin E , d-alfatocopherol E) - fat-solublevitamin, famous, howvitaminbeauty. A unique property of vitamin E is the ability to protect fats from oxidation, which is important for the normal functioning of the cardiovascular system. Scientists say that it is impossible to get enough vitamin E from food.

Main sources of vitamin E: wheat germ oil, whole grains, green leafy vegetables, vegetable oils, meat, eggs, avocados.

Result of dietary deficiency: fatigue, premature aging, lethargy, inability to concentrate, anemia, infertility, miscarriages, muscular dystrophy.

Triceteareth-4 Phosphate (soy lecithin) - Increasing importance, in recent years, is given to the use of natural and synthetic phospholipids. The most valuable of them is lecithin, which is actively involved in metabolism, including in the skin. According to the chemical structure, lecithin is an ester of phosphoric acid and alcohols: choline and glycerol substituted with fatty acid residues, which are represented by residues of saturated (stearic) and unsaturated (linoleic, linolenic, arachidonic) acids.

There are two types of lecithin - egg and soy. More accessible is soy lecithin, which is a mixture of 65% natural phospholipids, 30-35% soybean oil, a small amount of glycerin, ethanolamine, galactose, B vitamins, biotin, choline.

Attention! There is an increasing use genetically modified SRI .

Vegetarian food is the first in a series of "suspicious" foods. For example, Unilever, one of the largest manufacturers of instant soy products, was the first to approve the production of GM products in the UK. Greenpeace, Friends of the Earth and other organizations constantly oppose the activities of this company.

For example, GM soy protein can be used in the manufacture of sausages, noodles, baby food, beer, bread, frozen foods, pies, pet food. In addition, it is used in the production inks, glues, paints, plastics and pesticides.

The most widely used is soybean oil. Often it is mixed with other oils in margarine, which contains soy lecithin to varying degrees. Mayonnaise, cooking oil, sandwiches, and ice cream may also contain GM soybean oil.

Soy lecithin is widely used in chocolate, baked goods, margarine, and diet foods (such as Slim Fast shakes). Examples are Nestlé chocolate and chocolate biscuits and McVities. Marks and Spencer have acknowledged that they use GM soy in many of their products.

Just like soy, GM corn is used in a variety of food and non-food products, such as in Doritos chips, Uncle Ben's Tacos, or the more common corn oil, syrup or starch.

Cornstarch is incorporated into many foods, from soups and sweets to toothpastes. In addition, GM corn is actively used in animal feed.

Triclosan - The antiseptic agent triclosan, which has a pronounced antibacterial activity, is often used as an antimicrobial ingredient in the manufacture of toothpastes, soaps, shampoos, cosmetics, antiseptic solutions and plastic materials used in medicine.

Most companies producing hygiene products - soap and toothpaste, cleaning powders and dishwashing detergents - focus the consumer's attention on the antibacterial effect of products. When advertising their products, they try to be sure to indicate the content of triclosan in soap or toothpaste.

Triclosan does have antibacterial properties, but, unfortunately, advertising is silent about the fact that triclosan can destroy many beneficial bacteria, leaving harmful ones intact, and also cause unwanted mutations of the most dangerous bacteria. This issue is currently being discussed among microbiologists.

A group of researchers from Pennsylvania (USA) found that there are bacteria, and quite dangerous ones, that have already developed resistance to triclosan. And, although triclosan continues to be a mandatory component of more than 700 hygiene products, including the well-known Safeguard soap, Signal toothpaste, the authors of the study advise not to use products containing triclosan in everyday life at all.

Take care of your normal microflora, it contains beneficial bacteria that inhibit the growth of pathogenic microbes, more effective than triclosan.

Trilon B - cm. .

Trilon BD - cm. .

Triplex III - cm. .

Trisodium citrate – cm. .

Tyrosine (tyrosine) - is advertised as an amino acid that allows you to get a deep dark tan. Some tanning lotions contain tyrosine. Be sure that this is reflected in the advertisement of a cosmetic product - an amino acid that enhances melanization (tanning) of the skin.

Y

Yeast (Faex) extract - extractyeast, receivedfrom Saccharomyces. biological additive.

Z

Zinc Stearate (Zinc Stearate ) - anionic surfactant (surfactant). Powder of white or cream color. Insoluble in water, lower alcohols. When heated, soluble in oils. It is used as a filler in the composition of powder (up to 15%), as a structure former and stabilizer - in cosmetic creams.

International symbol " Dangerous » (orange square with two black diagonal crossed lines) means that the substance may be a mild irritant or cause an allergic skin reaction, may be potentially toxic or carcinogenic, or have the potential to contaminate the environment with hazardous by-products during its manufacture.

This mark also means that restrictions have been placed on the production of this ingredient. The absence of this symbol does not mean that this ingredient is safe for all individuals. (Taken from website Cosmetics Unmasked).