Collars knitting types and patterns. Collar knitting patterns

Knitting a beautiful collar is, in fact, quite difficult, and it is unlikely that it will be possible to avoid this work, because the higher the skill of the knitter, the greater the number of various models, including with various collars, can be knitted. Knitting collars with knitting needles, especially turn-down ones, is best done separately, and then carefully sewn to the collar. Turn-down collars come in various types and shapes. The most common models are shawl collar and turn-down collar with rounded or pointed tips. Consider the ways of knitting these models in order.

A shawl collar is knitted with rather thin knitting needles from yarn in two threads. They collect the required number of loops, which depends on the width of the gate, and knit with an elastic band for about ten rows. Then, at the same time, from both ends of the knitting, they do not knit sequentially through a row nine times in four loops and three times in three loops. After that, all remaining loops are closed at the same time. You can not close the loops, but knit one row with an auxiliary thread. When sewing the collar to the neck, the auxiliary row is gradually unraveled, and the open loops of the outer row of the collar are carefully sewn with a loop stitch to the knitted fabric.

Knitting collars with needles with pointed tips is also best done from doubled yarn. Needle size - 2.5. Knitting starts from the outside of the collar. Gather the required number of loops and knit with an elastic band. Simultaneously with the beginning of knitting, 26-30 loops are counted on each side. The 26th or 30th loop will be central at the same time: on both sides of them, in each front row, the loops are reduced, knitting together two loops for the back leg with facial knitting. Knit in this way until the required collar width is obtained. All loops remaining on the needle are closed at the same time, or done in the same way as described above.

Knitting collars with rounded needles, on the contrary, starts from the inside of the collar. Gather on the auxiliary thread the required number of loops and knit one or two rows. After that, they switch to the main knitting yarn and knit ten rows with the chosen pattern, after which one loop is reduced on both sides of each row in seven steps.

In addition to turn-downs, stand-up collars are very common in knitted models, which are typical for sweaters, shirt-fronts and knitted jackets. Knitting a stand-up collar is performed after the seams on the shoulder are sewn. The required number of loops are cast on circular thin knitting needles along the neckline and four rows are knitted with facial knitting. Then they move on to the main pattern for the collar (elastic band, lace, or facial knitting). The stand-up collar under the neck is knitted directly to the required length. After that, all loops are closed at the same time, making a free elastic edge. If it is necessary to knit a collar that is lagging behind the neck, or a collar collar, then, having knitted about five centimeters straight, they begin to add loops at the same distance from each other along the entire length of the collar.

Knitting on circular needles is quite difficult and not very convenient. Therefore, stand-up collars are often made with a seam at the back, or a fastener. Seamed collars are knitted on two needles separately and then sewn to the neckline. Also, a stand-up collar with a clasp is made separately, which can be at the back, side or front. To knit a fastener on both sides of the collar detail, a placket is made with a string, or loops for buttons are knitted on one side of the placket. When calculating the length of the collar, it is necessary to add about two centimeters to the clasp, and, sewing the collar, put one part on top of the other to the width of the clasp. To avoid a thick and sloppy seam, knitting begins on an auxiliary thread. Then open loops are sewn to the neck.

Knitting collars with knitting needles is an opportunity to create a beautiful additional detail that will make the knitted model more stylish and original.

Knitting the neckline is one of the most important steps in the process of creating any sweater, cardigan or dress. An inaccurately made, unevenly sewn or stretched neckline will spoil even a beautiful and original product. How to make it frame it, emphasizing only its merits? We will talk about this in today's master class! Our tips and step-by-step instructions will help you quickly and seamlessly learn how to knit and process various types of necks, and the finished item will always look stylish and neat.

Option one: smooth edge

Such processing of the neck with knitting needles is universal: it is suitable for products for children, and for framing "adult" clothes.

To create it, knit all the cast-on loops in seven rows from l. P..

We turn the knitting inside out and gently, not tight, with the help of an overcast seam, sew the edge to the finished product.

From the wrong side of the inlay, it will look like this:

From the front side, the processing looks perfectly even.

Option two: decorative small zigzags

Another simple decorative neckline that even beginner craftswomen will be able to handle.
To begin with, we make seven rows of l. P..

The eighth row is done as follows: 2 l. p. vm. l..

Then we make a crochet, and again 2 liters. p.m., yarn over again, and so on until the end of this row.

Having reached the purl row, all the sts of the previous row should be knitted only with the purl ones.

Now we need another sp. as an auxiliary, on it we collect loops from a typesetting row.

Now the harness is folded in half along the pattern line. After that, the right sp. we capture the item from the far side ..

We put it on the joint, which is in front.

We knit from the front sp. 2 p.m. front (thrown and own). This will give us a row of small cloves.

This is how the processing from the inside should turn out:

Neck side:

Neck strapping: video master class

Option three: tying the neck with knitting needles using an inlay

This processing is the most popular and results in a solid neckline, so the binding is carried out with circular knitting needles.

On the side, along the neckline, we collect stitches from the row located under the hem.

On the okata, we pull them out with knitting needles from each subsequent p., But a row lower - in this way we smooth out the neckline.

Having reached the horizontal part, we draw out the loops from the hem with knitting needles. It is important to remember that, in order to avoid deformation of the cutout, you should skip every 5th loop.

Having finished the set of stitches along the entire length, we proceed to knitting in any usual way. You can, for example, do this with a 1 x 1 or 2 x 2 rubber band.

Option four: separate inlay (first method)

This processing is also universal for tying the necks of products for adults and children.
With ordinary knitting needles, we collect the number of stitches we need, then the “elastic band” for seven rows.

Now we compare two loops - from the inlay and from the cutout, we connect them using a free kettle seam.

We start it from the inside, introducing the needle with the thread immediately into the second loop, then we bring the needle out from top to bottom to the back side through the first loop. Further, at the bottom we bring the needle into the third p., And from the front side to the wrong side into the second and further by analogy, thus connecting the frame and the cutout on both sides.

If we do everything right, the processing will look like this:

Neck with a kettle seam: video master class

Option five: a separate inlay (second method)

Another way to tie the neck separately.

We collect the required number of loops with knitting needles, then an elastic band 2 x 2.

Having made 7 rows in this way, we perform double knitting. We remove the first edge with knitting needles without knitting, yarn over, l. n. and so on until the end of the row.

In the next row, we remove those loops that are purl without knitting, always keep the thread in front.

Having reached the crochets of the previous row, we knit them with facial loops.

Flip knitting.

We continue further: reaching the crochets, we knit. from l. p., remove all other p. without knitting, always keep the thread in front. Having connected three more rows, we divide the knitting in half into 2 separate joint ventures. We close the loops on one of the sp. the way described above.

We smooth this part and the second one, which is still with open stitches, well. We put the parts one on top of the other and sew them with a stitch seam.

The part with open loops is sewn from the wrong side with the help of an overcast seam.

As a result, we get the following processing:

Option six: double inlay

We follow the smoothness of the lines.

After processing the part and making seams, we collect on circular sp. loops along the edge: we divide the edge into sections of 10 cm each, we collect sts at the rate of “number of sts + 3-4 sts”. Now alternate 2 l. n. and 2 and. item ("elastic band" 2 x 2) or 1 l. n. and 1 and. n. (“elastic band” 1 x 1), the number of sts is a multiple of four or, respectively, two.

Having connected the frame, freely close all the stitches, cut the thread, leaving a long tail. We fold the knitting in half, turn it inward and pin it with pins, sew the closed edge to the neckline.

Option seven: V-neckline (first method)

We start with a set of p., as shown in the photo below.

After a set of loops, you can start knitting an elastic band 1x1.

The height should be selected depending on the type of product.
Upon completion of work, all p. should be closed as l. n. On the cape, we sew the edges with a thread with a needle.

Option eight: V-neck (second method)

We carry out a set of loops in the usual way, starting from the side of the shoulder.

Option nine: rectangular cutout

In a circle we knit one row l. p., mark the corner p.. Then we continue, alternating l. p. and i. n., corners should account for persons. p., if necessary, here you can add or subtract additional p..
In all rows of gum, we remove the corner and previous stitches together, as with faces. knitting, and knit the next stitch with the front one and stretch the removed stitches through it..

We make an inlay of the width we need and close the loops. Corner reductions are performed as when fixing the eyelets.

Tenth variation: with inlay and Italian edge

We start, like a double inlay, but for the elastic we knit 1 x 1, alternate l. p. and i. P..

In the last 4 pp. take sp. half size down and length. knit the neckline.
In the first of the last 4 pp. every l. we remove the item, as in the case of persons. elm., and we stretch the thread for p..
I. p. as well as. P..

In sl. r., each and. we remove the item, as with the worn out. elm., and stretch the thread in front of p..
L. p. as l. P..

Once again, rep. these two r. and fix p. last. R..

Variation eleventh: processing "boat" with an elastic band

We process the neck with an elastic band. A scheme is being made-the basis of the back, on which we draw another line and a finishing plank, 6 cm wide. The scheme of the front is similar.

We knit the front and back "squares" to the finishing plank, then - an elastic band 1 x 1 or 2 x 2 for 3 cm, changing the joint number. through every 2-3 p. from larger to smaller, now change sp. from a smaller number to a larger one at the same intervals. We complete the bar several. R. auxiliary. n. and, without closing p. p., remove knitting from the sp..

We do the same with the front part, then we sew them over the shoulders, fold the plank in half, baste, then the “boat” is sewn with a stitch seam to the wrong side of the product.

Variation twelfth: "boat" stocking stitch

A product diagram is made, on which we draw a new cutout line and a plank of 2.5 cm.
Upon completion of the main work, knit. 2.5 cm stocking knit., then several. R. auxiliary thread, we do not close the item, we remove the work from the cn. and make the front. The swept boat is sewn with a kettle seam, without passing the needle on the faces. side of the product - we capture only half the thickness of the thread.

Closing the neck loops: video master class

We will be glad if today's lesson will help you in your work. Smooth loops!

A stand-up collar is a very convenient solution for the cold season. In a jumper with a knitted stand-up collar, you will look stylish and at the same time you will be warm. In fact, we have with you a stand-up collar, like on a turtleneck.

The types of knitted collars are diverse, but the most popular is the knitted stand collar with a lapel. Such a collar is usually knitted with an elastic band. The number of purl and facial loops in the rapport may be different. If you need an elegant collar without visible "noodles", then a knitted stand-up collar should be made with a single elastic band. If you need a more massive collar or you want to turn the stand-up collar into a significant element of sweater decor, then make a knitted collar with your own hands with an elastic band 2x2, 3x3, 4x4 or even 2x3, 4x2 and so on.

Such fashionable knitted stand-up collars can be made not only with plain yarn, but also with melange or yarn with the addition of lurex, which will give a special elegant look to your knitted product.

So, consider the models of knitted collars

Stand-up collar with lapel

Such a knitted stand-up collar with a lapel can be used when "adding" a jumper that bothers you. Measure the width of the back of the jumper, divide the resulting number by 3 and then add three more units to the answer. Thus, we will find out what the width of the neck should be in order to make a knitted collar with knitting needles. After that, we raise the loops along the edge of the neck with knitting needles and start knitting gum. As we have already said, the number of loops in elastic bands can be arbitrary: 1 x 1, 2 x 2 and so on. Collar height can be any. The average height for a stand-up collar with a lapel is 20 cm.

Now you will learn how to knit a collar with knitting needles so that the head passes freely into it.

So, how to knit a collar with knitting needles

• It is important to follow the correct method of casting on the edge of the neckline. It should be like this: on the side of their vertical or oblique arrangement, 3 loops out of 4, skipping the 4th, on the horizontal side - each loop - and 1 circle is knitted with facial ones.

• The second rule is that you need to knit an elastic band freely, without tightening the loops. If you knit tight, then take the needles of a slightly larger number than those with which you knitted the main part of the jumper.

• The third rule says: when closing the loops, use a method in which there will be no effect of tightened loops. If you know how to close the loops in the Italian way, then you should not have any problems.

• Also, in order for the head to freely pass into the hole of the stand-up collar connected with an elastic band, you can knit the collar by adding loops.

To do this, after several initial rows are knitted with a 1 x 1 elastic band along the edge of the base of the neckline, then proceed to the increase. In the 1st row, one increase is made for 5 loops (in order not to disturb the elastic pattern, add loops using the double inc method). To do this, 2 are knitted from 1 front loop: front for the front wall and purl for the back. The front loop is lowered from the left knitting needle. Now on the right needle -1 front and 1 additional purl loop; 1st loop on the left needle - purl. With the left knitting needle, pick up the transverse thread between 2 purl loops and knit the front crossed. Thus, 2 loops are added: purl and front. Therefore, this type of addition is called double.

Continue knitting the stand-up collar straight until the desired height is reached.

Knitting collars with knitting needles is neat only when they are created separately and then sewn on. Well, that's also a way out. However, the seams have never been decorated with knitwear, they are obviously thicker than the rest of the fabric. Some use machine stitching. This means that the yarn will not receive a second life - it is simply impossible to dissolve knitting without damaging the thread. We offer a different knitting of collars with knitting needles - the best option. Even after many years it will be possible to put this sky-blue sweater on hats and slippers.

Sequence of work

The knitting of the stand collar in the first photo is almost finished. For clarity, in the sequence of work, you need to return to the very beginning. Take the workpiece and turn the wrong side towards you so that the pulled loops do not form an imitation of a seam on the front side. On the wrong side, by the way, it is also, of course, absolutely useless. Therefore, first of all, carefully consider the edge from which you will begin to knit the collar. From above you will see a fairly even edge of closed loops if the sweater is knitted in separate parts, but since this blouse is knitted like a raglan - without seams, you already have open loops of the front shelves, back and sleeves. This is a plus. Count the number of loops. The combination of the main pattern of the product with the pattern of the collar is one of the most

Interesting and not so easy tasks. So we need to change the knitting pattern on the collar - the whole sweater is knitted with an elastic band 2x1, and the collar needs an elastic band 2x2. Make sure that there are 2 front loops near the fastener, and not wrong ones, and even more so not different. Make the necessary calculations and mark the required number of stitches for the additional loops with a thread of a different color. The least noticeable additionally typed loops are located in places of raglan lines.

Success Secrets

The knitting of the collar progresses without excesses if all measurements and calculations are made correctly. Please note - the absolute accuracy of the set of additional loops at the junction of raglan lines. The shoulder itself wrinkles slightly, but this is a characteristic feature of raglan sleeves, in the process of wearing everything falls into place. Knitting collars with knitting needles requires care and patience. The main thing is not to make mistakes at the initial stage. We check the quality of work often and with

passion, if we do not want to subsequently start all over again. In this case, the collar does not twist, the stripes stand straight, do not look at random. Now you can take care of the collar height. A low stand-up collar sometimes looks good, but not for this model. Knit it under the chin - you will not be mistaken, especially since the already worn sweater will certainly pull the neckline down, and the collar will definitely fall behind it. When you decide that the collar height is sufficient, close the loops - front ones, purl inside out and do not try to close the knitting of the collar tighter than the main one. The edge should be sufficiently elastic. Now everything is ready. And you can consider that knitting collars with knitting needles has been successfully mastered.

Learning to knit V - shaped neckline

This type of neckline for knitwear is unlikely to go out of fashion. It is used in knitting sports and sophisticated patterns for men, women and children. You can wear a model with such a neckline over a blouse or just on the body, beautifully tie a handkerchief well matched to the model.

For a V-shaped cut, the loops are divided in the middle and bevels are formed on both sides of the middle with the help of reductions. With an odd number of loops, close the middle loop or leave it temporarily (see red ring in photo 3).

Simple reductions are performed directly at the edge, for this one loop is pulled through the other (of which 1 is chrome). For the right half of the work in every 4th p. knit a row, except for the last 2 p., then knit these 2 p. together with the front one (photo 1). For the left half of the work, knit the first 2 sts together with a slope to the left, i.e. remove the 1st st as a front one, knit the 2nd st with the front one and stretch it through the removed loop, then continue knitting with the main pattern (photo 1 ).

It is not so easy to pick up loops for inlay along such edges. Therefore, the 2nd method is recommended, in which the reductions are noticeable, because they are performed at a distance of one or more loops from the edge. For the right half of the work in every 4th p. knit a row, except for the last 4 p., then knit 2 p. together with the front one, finish with 1 front and edge loop (photo 2).

For the left half of the work, start with an edge and 1 front loop, then knit 2 sts together with a slope to the left, as described above, then continue knitting with the main pattern (photo 2). An inclined path is formed between the main pattern and the edge. Decreases, performed with some interval from the edge, may have a slope of the loops towards the bevel, then they are a decorative design of the cutout. In this case, knit as in the previous version, but 2 sts, knitted together with the front, and 2 sts, knitted with an inclination to the left, change places (photo 3). When knitting with some patterns, such as semi-patent or patent elastic bands, a cutout is not formed with simple reductions, because. they fall alternately on the front or back loop.

Decrease for V-Neck

In this case, it is recommended to perform double reductions, which are done not in every 4th, but in every 8th p. In photo 4, the part is made with a semi-patent rubber band. For the right half of the work, knit all the loops of the row, except for the last 6 p., Then knit 3 p. Together (= 1 double decrease), finish the row with 2 p. For the left half, start with the hem and 2 sts of semi-patent gum, then double decrease, i.e. remove 1 st as a front, 2 sts knit together and stretch the removed loop through the knitted one (photo 4). If a pattern motif is made in the middle of the knitted part, it is recommended to use it to decorate the V-neck.

For example, two slanted front loops of a rhombus serve as the edge of a V-shaped neckline (photo 5). The middle "braid" continues on both sides along the bevels of the cutout (photo 6). The symmetrical middle motif of the white pullover from page 23 at the beginning of the V-neck is divided into 2 sections that continue on both sides of the neckline. Decreases in this model are performed at a distance of 27 points from the edge.

V-neck trim

When knitting the inlay in the middle of the front, an angle should be formed. There is a very simple way to knit the inlay. Cast on circular or flexible needles along the edge of the neckline (start and end in the middle of the front) and knit the trim with an elastic band (alternately 1 front, 1 purl) in rows in forward and reverse directions to the desired width.

In every 2nd p. at the beginning and at the end of the inlay, add 1 p.

Put the ends of the inlay on top of each other and sew along the edge of the cutout (photo 7). If the V-shaped neckline is deeper and the inlay is wider than in the photo, then the design of the neckline with such an asymmetric inlay is very impressive.

For a symmetrical inlay, the loops decrease in the middle of the front. Dial on short circular needles along the edge of the neckline an even number of loops and knit in a circle with an elastic band (alternately 1 front, 1 purl).

In every 2nd p. knit the last 2 sts before the middle of the front together with a tilt to the left, knit the next 2 sts together with the front (photo 8). If the middle loop of the main pattern was closed or temporarily left, then it is included in the inlay. For the inlay shown in photo 9, in every 2nd p. knit the loops of the row with an elastic band, except for 1 p. in front of the middle loop, remove the next 2 p. together, like faces. (i.e., insert the needle from left to right, first into the middle, then into the previous loop), knit the next loop in accordance with the pattern and stretch the removed loops through it. If the neckline is made out with a double trim, then first on the faces. on the side of the inlay on the middle loops, decreases are performed, then on the inside. side of the inlay also on the middle loops - increases. Decrease the trim as described above to the desired width and mark the fold line = purl row. Then, on both sides of the middle loop, increases are made (knit 1 crossed loop from the broach) in the same rhythm as the decreases, until the initial number of loops is on the needles, respectively. double-width inlay is tied (photo 10).

If the inlay is done with an elastic band 2x2 (alternately 2 front and 2 out), then 2 front loops should fall in the middle of the front. In every 2nd p. knit loops, except for 1 p. before the middle 2 p., then knit 2 p. together with the front one, knit the next 2 p. together with a slope to the left (photo 11).

If the main pattern is embossed, especially along the edge of the neckline, then the processing of the edges should be simple and inconspicuous. Pick up loops along the edge of the neckline, tie 1 p. elastic band (alternately 1 person. and 1 out.) and close the loops (photo 12). The pullover from page 23 has an edge tied with st. b / n and pico, emphasizes the romantic openwork pattern.