Creation of aromatic compositions. Basics of perfume compositions

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§ 2.

Purpose and composition of perfume compositions

Perfume compositions of even the simplest perfume composition consist of a large number of fragrant substances. For example, the recipe for the well-known perfume “Red”

Moscow” contains 16 individual aromatic substances and essential oils, as well as nine base compositions.

For a long time, perfume compositions were composed only of natural essential oils, resins and balms. The range of natural essential oils currently included in perfume compositions is quite wide and includes more than 200 names, including 20 domestic essential oils. Some natural essential oils come from abroad (orange, lemon, patchouli, santal, etc.).

With the development of the chemistry of synthetic fragrances, synthetic products occupy a leading place in perfume compositions. Using, along with natural products, a large assortment of synthetic aromatic substances allows the perfumer to obtain new original scents not found in nature. Among the large number of synthetic organic compounds that have an odor, only a small part belongs to the so-called synthetic fragrances - compounds that have a characteristic odor and are used in compositions. Currently, domestic compositions include more than 160 different synthetic fragrant substances. Along with natural essential oils and synthetic aromatic substances, base compositions are widely introduced into perfume compositions, both reproducing the smell of natural oils and having an original smell.

Based on the nature of the smell, perfume compositions are divided into two groups: floral and fantasy.

Floral arrangements reproduce the scent of a flower or a flower bouquet; fancy - have a smell that may not occur in nature.

A well-composed composition must satisfy the following requirements:

A harmonious combination of aromatic substances included in the composition;

A certain duration of odor sensation;

Relatively qualitative invariability of odor during their storage and evaporation during use, upon contact with human skin, clothing or hair.

§ 3. Basics of composing perfume compositions

Composition is the basis of perfume art. Creating perfumes is both a science and an art.

The success of constructing perfume compositions with an original hall-

xqm depends on the knowledge, experience of the perfumer, and his creative personality.

The type of smell of a perfume composition is determined by its composition and mainly by the ratio of the leading components. Thus, the leading components for compositions with the scent of violet are ionone, methyl ionone, iralia, iris oil, ver-violet; with the smell of lily of the valley - hydroxycitronellal, linalool, dimethyl acetal, phenylacetaldehyde; with rose scent - citranellol, geraniol, phenylethyl alcohol, rose oil; with the smell of cloves - eugenol, isoeugenol, clove oil; with the scent of jasmine - benzyl acetate, jasminaldehyde, jasmine oil.

In table Table 6 shows the components included in some compositions with a floral scent (violet, lily of the valley, rose, carnation, jasmine).

As can be seen from table. 6, in compositions with the scent of violet you can find components of rose and carnation; with the scent of lily of the valley - components of jasmine, rose; with the smell of jasmine - components of lily of the valley, rose, etc. Therefore, a perfumer can create an unlimited number of different scents by selecting a combination of fragrant substances. The nature of the smell will be determined by the combination and ratio of fragrant substances.

When composing floral compositions, the perfumer is somewhat limited in the choice of fragrant substances. However, it has been established that floral perfumes with the scent of lilac, lily of the valley, violet, etc., created by different perfumers, differ significantly in shades of smell. This is explained by the fact that different perfumers perceive and reproduce the smell of a natural flower differently. The perfumer's abilities are manifested to a much greater extent when creating fantasy compositions, for example, with the smell of chypre, fougere, leather, etc. Perfume compositions with a fantasy smell are the basis of numerous perfumes (''Triumph'', ''Visit'', ''Ogonyok'', '' Cinderella”, “Stone Flower”, “Only You”, “Opera”, “Sardonyx”, “Nocturne”, “Russian Shawl”, “Night Aroma”, “Chypre”, etc.). The scents of chypre and fougère are due to the combination of aromatic substances with a citrus scent, oak moss and components of rose, jasmine and clove.

To create a woody note, the following fragrant substances are introduced into the compositions: patchouli, santhal, vetiver oils, ionone, methyl ionone. Peruvian and Tolu balsams, benzoin resin, cistus, and opoponax add a balsamic note to perfume compositions. Notes of amber and musk are created by introducing into the composition infusions of ambergris, natural musk, beaver stream, indole, skatole, nitromusks and other synthetic aromatic substances with the smell of musk.

Let's consider the construction of a perfume composition with a fantasy scent using the example of a composition with the scent of chypre.

The main components that determine the smell of chypre are the following: oak moss resinoid, bergamot, lemon, lavender, vetiver, patchouli oils, cistus, ionone, methyl ionone, compounds with a musky odor, amber, and vanilla.

6. Components included in some compositions with the scent of violet, lily of the valley, rose, carnation, jasmine

There are three stages of smell in perfume compositions, depending on the rate of evaporation of fragrant substances: the initial smell (felt shortly after the evaporation of alcohol from the perfume), the main smell (the smell characteristic of a given name of the perfume) and the final smell (the smell that remains after long-term evaporation of the perfume).

The initial odor of the compositions is due to highly volatile aromatic substances (aldehydes, citrus oils, etc.), the main odor is due to less volatile aromatic substances (terpineol, ionone, methylane tranilate, etc.), the final odor is due to very low-volatile aromatic substances (oak moss, musk, ketone, etc.). Low-volatile products, as a rule, do not have a very pleasant initial odor, but in combination with other components they give the compositions a good note. To improve the smell of a mixture of non-volatile aromatic substances, more volatile products are added to the composition. Highly volatile products give the composition a pleasant initial note.

To create a chypre scent, they first find a combination of slow-volatile aromatic substances, such as oak moss and amber, which is most characteristic of the chypre scent. Since the scent of chypre contains a musky note, you should add to this combination, for example, musk-cous-ketone and then introduce veti-vere oil, patchouli and jasmine absolute in varying proportions. The combination of these products will determine the final scent of the perfume. However, this composition has an unpleasant initial note when evaporating from the strips of paper. To soften this unpleasant note and create a more characteristic chypre scent, more volatile substances are introduced into the composition, for example, with a floral scent, with a rose scent (rose oil, citronellol, geraniol, geranium oil), and then you can add, for example, fledo-range absolute oil or a composition with the scent of lily of the valley. By introducing these products in various proportions, the perfumer tries to find a combination of these aromatic substances with the most pleasant and characteristic odor.

The search for compounds for the initial note is easier, since there is a large assortment of highly volatile aromatic substances with a pleasant odor. You can introduce, for example, orange and bergamot oils, aldehydes with a molecule containing from 9 to 12 carbon atoms. The variations of this recipe can increase almost unlimitedly, while remaining within the framework of the scent of chypre with various shades. Thus, the perfumer can vary perfumes with a given odor character, choosing the combinations he likes. At the same time, he should not try to introduce all existing fragrant substances into the composition. First of all, he selects the products with which he intends to work to create the intended scent.

To obtain the desired scent, the perfumer usually starts from individual synthetic aromatic substances and essential oils, but can also combine one base composition with another, taking them in equal quantities or one in more and the other in less. Then individual aromatic substances are added to these combinations, which determine the initial, main and final odors of the composition. At the same time, many aromatic substances simultaneously determine the initial and main notes of the smell (for example, lavender oil, bergamot, rosemary, etc.).

Thus, first the perfumer creates the main, or so-called leading scent. Then, to the main smell, he selects aromatic substances that complement and harmoniously combine with the main smell and give the perfume a certain fullness, timbre, tone and color.

In both domestic and foreign practice, a new composition, as a rule, is developed not for one type of perfume product, but mainly for a complete series, which includes perfume, cologne, eau de toilette, bath preparation, fragrant talc, etc. Although the composition may also be intended for a narrower series (only for perfumes and colognes or only for perfumes).

The necessary components of perfume compositions for classic colognes are natural citrus oils: orange, tangerine, lemon, bergamot, as well as lavender, rosemary, petitgrain and neroli. Citrus oils contribute to the freshness of the initial scent of colognes. Other products included in perfume compositions for classic colognes only emphasize the note of citrus oils and complement it. Lavender, rosemary, petitgrain and lemon oils add a fresh, floral touch.

In addition to classic colognes, there are also fancy scented colognes, which are classic colognes with the addition of other products.

In foreign practice, over the past few years, the predominant direction has been compositions of a floral nature with various shades. Floral aromas of a sweetish-spicy nature, close in smell to the so-called oriental style in perfumery, are becoming especially popular.

In parallel with the leading trend represented by floral compositions, another one has developed in foreign perfumery in recent years - musk. The sharp, unpleasant smell of so-called musk oils distinguishes them from traditional perfumery products, as well as more complex compositions based on a combination of the smell of musk with the aromas of jasmine, sandalwood, oakmoss, vanilla and ylang-ylang.

Basics of perfume compositions

from "Basics of perfumery and cosmetics production"

Composition is the basis of perfume art. Creating perfumes is both a science and an art.
In table Table 6 shows the components included in some compositions with a floral scent (violet, lily of the valley, rose, carnation, jasmine).
As can be seen from table. 6, in compositions with the smell of violet you can find components of rose, carnations with the smell of lily of the valley - components of jasmine, roses with the smell of jasmine - components of lily of the valley, roses, etc. Therefore, the perfumer can create an unlimited number of different smells by selecting a combination of fragrant substances. The nature of the smell will be determined by the combination and ratio of fragrant substances.
When composing floral compositions, the perfumer is somewhat limited in the choice of fragrant substances. However, it has been established that floral perfumes with the scent of lilac, lily of the valley, violet, etc., created by different perfumers, differ significantly in shades of smell. This is explained by the fact that different perfumers perceive and reproduce the smell of a natural flower differently. The perfumer's abilities are manifested to a much greater extent when creating fantasy compositions, for example, with the smell of chypre, fougere, leather, etc. Perfume compositions with a fantasy smell are the basis of numerous perfumes (Triumph, Visit, Ogonyok, Cinderella, Stone Flower, Only You, Opera, Sardonyx , Nocturne, Russian Shawl, Night Aroma, Chypre, etc.). The scents of chypre and fougère are due to the combination of aromatic substances with a citrus scent, oak moss and components of rose, jasmine and clove.
Let's consider the construction of a perfume composition with a fantasy scent using the example of a composition with the scent of chypre.
There are three stages of smell in perfume compositions, depending on the rate of evaporation of fragrant substances: the initial smell (felt shortly after the evaporation of alcohol from the perfume), the main smell (the smell characteristic of a given name of the perfume) and the final smell (the smell that remains after long-term evaporation of the perfume).
The search for compounds for the initial note is easier, since there is a large assortment of highly volatile aromatic substances with a pleasant odor. You can introduce, for example, orange and bergamot oils, aldehydes with a content of carbon atoms in the molecule from 9 to 12. The variations of this recipe can increase almost unlimitedly, while remaining within the framework of the scent of chypre with various shades. Thus, a perfumer can vary perfumes with a given odor character, choosing the combinations he likes. At the same time, he should not try to introduce all existing fragrant substances into the composition. First of all, he selects the products with which he intends to work to create the intended scent.
To obtain the desired scent, the perfumer usually starts from single synthetic aromatic substances and essential oils; he can also combine one base composition with another, taking them in equal quantities or one in greater quantities and the other in less. Then we add individual fragrant substances to these combinations, which determine the initial, main and final odors of the composition. At the same time, many aromatic substances simultaneously determine the initial and main notes of the smell (for example, lavender oil, bergamot, rosemary, etc.).
Thus, first the perfumer creates the main, or so-called leading scent. Then, to the main smell, he selects aromatic substances that complement and harmoniously combine with the main smell and give the perfume a certain fullness, timbre, tone and color.
In both domestic and foreign practice, a new composition, as a rule, is developed not for one type of perfume product, but mainly for a complete series, which includes perfume, cologne, eau de toilette, bath preparation, fragrant talc, etc. Although the composition may also be intended for a narrower series (only for perfumes and colognes or only for perfumes).
The necessary components of perfume compositions for classic colognes are natural citrus oils: orange, tangerine, lemon, bergamot, as well as lavender, rosemary, petitgrain and neroli. Citrus oils contribute to the freshness of the initial scent of colognes. Other products included in perfume compositions for classic colognes only emphasize the note of citrus oils and complement it. Lavender, rosemary, petitgrain and lemon oils add a fresh, floral touch.
In addition to classic colognes, there are also fancy scented colognes, which are classic colognes with the addition of other products.
In foreign practice in recent years, the predominant direction has been compositions of a floral nature with various shades. Floral aromas of a sweetish-spicy nature, close in smell to the so-called oriental style in perfumery, are becoming especially popular.
In parallel with the leading trend represented by floral compositions, another one has developed in foreign perfumery in recent years - musk. The sharp, unpleasant smell of so-called musk oils distinguishes them from traditional perfumery products, as well as more complex compositions based on a combination of the smell of musk with the aromas of jasmine, sandalwood, oakmoss, vanilla and ylang-ylang.
One of the significant indicators of the quality of modern cosmetics, toilet soaps and detergents is their smell. These products should be moderately perfumed and evoke a pleasant feeling when used.
Almost all fragrant substances can be used to perfume cosmetic products, but in the concentration that is optimal for them. Some exceptions are those that do not tolerate a certain environment, cause irritation to the skin or mucous membrane, or are incompatible in combination with one another.

Traditionally, perfumes were a mixture of phytoessences extracted from spices, herbs, flowers, leaves and woods, to which fixatives (substances that increase the longevity of odors) were added.

To create a perfume with your own hands, we will need essential oils and a carrier base, in our case it is almond oil (or jojoba oil), a mixing bottle, and photo paper cut into strips as blotters.

To start with, you can purchase several essential oils for each note.
For example, the top note includes mainly citrus fruits - bergamot, grapefruit, orange, petitgrain, lemon.
For the heart note, you can take flowers: rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang (as a more economical option: geranium, carnation). Spices: cinnamon, coriander, nutmeg. Herbs: thyme, clary sage.
Base notes include wood oils, resins, and plant roots.
Suitable for us are vetiver, sandalwood, patchouli and vanilla.

The main secret of a person who creates fragrances is not a keen sense of smell, but a creative emotional perception of odors.
Just as an artist knows his paints, a perfumer must know the material with which he works. And therefore, before you start composing a perfume composition, you need to develop your olfactory memory.
This can take some time, from one day to several weeks, depending on how long it takes you to accurately recognize any of your essential oils.
After you have become acquainted, creatively characterized the aromas and recorded them in your memory, you can begin to conceive a perfume composition.

The structure of a perfume, as mentioned above, consists of three parts: the initial notes, which are the very first to open, the heart notes and the so-called “trail” or base notes. They depend on the time of evaporation of essential oils and the duration of the aroma on the skin.
First, the heart of the future fragrance is created, in which the original vision of the perfumer is manifested, then a base is applied to the heart, emphasizing the main direction of the perfume, and lastly, top notes are added.

I will give an example of how a natural perfumer works, in principle. This will help you in the future to create any compositions yourself, just adding your own individuality.

First, we choose the direction of future spirits.
Let's say it will be floral oriental.
Take photo paper cut into 1 cm strips.
Apply a drop of essential oils to the edge of the strip of each note.

Having combined them with a fan, with clean edges down, we bring them to the nose.
Also, for a more distinct perception of the mixture of aromas, you can use a large glass of cognac.

First we listen to the heart note, let it be: cinnamon, jasmine, rose, clove.
We also try combinations: rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang, clary sage.
Etc.

For example, we settle on a combination: jasmine, rose, cinnamon, sage, ylang-ylang.
We also do the same with base notes, choosing the best combination among suitable essential oils.
To add a fruity-citrus note, choose orange, grapefruit and bergamot as the top.
After this, you need to listen to the selected oils in the form of chords.
To do this, take one leading essential oil from each note on the blotters and listen together. For example, rose-vetiver-grapefruit, then jasmine-patchouli-bergamot.
We choose a good chord that is worth emphasizing in the form of a quantitative advantage in the mixture.

After all the tests, comparisons and searches, the next step in creating perfume will be drawing up a formula.
Proportions are necessary to maintain concentration, harmonious sound and possible correction of mistakes.
So, we take into account that the concentration of the perfume composition in the carrier substance should be 20-25%.
Then, for example, for 15 ml of perfume, we need 3 ml of essential oils, which is approximately 50-60 drops.

Of these, 50-60% are top notes, 25-30% are the heart of the fragrance and 15-20% are bottom notes.

Let's say our perfume formula looks like this:

Top:
grapefruit – 15 k.
orange – 8 k.
bergamot – 5 k.

Heart:
jasmine – 7 k.
rose – 4 k.
cinnamon – 3 k.
sage – 2 k.
nutmeg – 1 tbsp.
coriander – 1 tbsp.
ylang-ylang – 0.5 k.

Base:
sandal – 5 k.
vetiver – 4 k.
patchouli – 2 parts.
vanilla – 1 tbsp.

After compiling, we begin mixing the oils, but even here there is no need to rush and immediately add everything as written on paper.
Essential oils should be added drop by drop, listening to the mixture for aroma each time.

All changes and additions are made to the formula.

Don’t forget that first we create a heart, apply a base on it and finally finish it with the top of the whole composition.

After composition, dilute the composition with the required amount of oil.
Leave to brew for 3-4 days in a cool, dark place.
Alcohol perfumes mature longer - from 3 weeks to one and a half months.

We pour it into a convenient bottle and are proud of ourselves as a beginner perfumer.

This master class was prepared by Anna Bardina.
Anna is a true artist, she makes various jewelry - costume jewelry, paints ceramics and creates new fragrances. You can get acquainted with her works and purchase them on the page in the City of Masters

Often in descriptions of fragrances there is such a thing as a perfume composition. Many people think that it is simply a synonym for the word perfume, but this is not entirely true. Today we want to clarify this issue and understand what a perfume composition actually is.

What is a perfume composition

A perfume composition is a concentrated multicomponent mixture of fragrant substances with a specific aroma inherent in a specific perfume product. It is she who is the carrier of the smell, that is, the main element in the composition of any perfume. And it is this that determines the character and durability of your favorite perfume. However, she is not a spirit.

To obtain perfumes, eau de toilettes and colognes, the perfume composition is diluted in an alcohol or oil solution in a certain ratio.

So, perfume is a 25-30% solution of a perfume composition, eau de toilette is a 15% solution, and cologne is 6-10%.

Thus, we can simultaneously answer another frequent question from our readers - what percentage of aromatic oils do perfume compositions contain? Based on the previous logic, you yourself already see the answer. A perfume composition is a substance consisting of 100% pure aromatic substances.

What is included in a perfume composition?

Depending on the desire of the perfumer, the composition of the perfume composition may include:

Plant extracts - usually essential oils and absolutes
extracts of animal origin - amber, musk, civet, etc.
as well as synthetic fragrances, which are obtained from petroleum products in chemical laboratories.

Of course, no synthetic fragrances are used. Plant extracts, on the contrary, are the main working material of perfumers, from which they create their masterpieces.

Creation of perfume compositions

As we have already found out, various natural extracts are used to create perfume compositions. But how do individual aromatic substances, with their own unique aroma, produce a unique, multifaceted aroma that brings us into a state of bliss?

From a technical point of view, everything is simple. It is necessary to classify the available oils according to their level of volatility into three groups: rapidly volatile, moderately volatile and slowly volatile. Next, within each group, compose the top, middle and bottom chords of the future composition, respectively, combine them and, voila, the aroma is ready.

However, if you dig a little deeper, everything turns out to be much more complicated.

The final result largely depends on the talent and skill level of the person who is composing the perfume composition. It’s like in music: there are only 7 notes, but some people create masterpieces from them, while others create mediocre works.

Want to test your perfume talents? Here is a small instruction on how to do it at home. And we will continue and talk about existing types of perfume compositions.

Main types of perfume compositions

Despite the fact that perfume compositions are complex mixtures of fragrant substances, they usually have a leading accent that belongs to one or another family of fragrances.

Different perfume schools classify odors differently; perfumers do not have a uniform approach to this matter. Therefore, we will now consider the classification of fragrances that we ourselves adhere to in our atelier.

So, there are 10 main families of fragrances: citrus, spicy, fruity, floral, herbal, woody, fougere, chypre, oriental, leather, as well as resins and balms.

Citrus aromas

As you might guess, this family includes aromas of lemon, orange, lime, bergamot, grapefruit and other citrus fruits. Extracts are obtained by cold pressing from the peel of the corresponding fruit. These are invigorating, refreshing aromas that are great for creating bright, energetic perfumes.

Spicy flavors

The family of spicy aromas are made up of extracts extracted from the same plants from which we commonly obtain spices. Cinnamon, pepper, nutmeg, cloves, vanilla are the most popular representatives of this group. Expressive, rich, seductive... Just like spices in cooking, spicy aromas give a perfume character and special warmth.

Oriental (oriental) fragrances

Bright, temperamental, rich and incredibly seductive. This is how the perfume compositions of this group are usually described. The basis of these aromas are the essential oils of jasmine, iris, vanilla, sandalwood, musk and amber, traditional for oriental perfumery. Ambergris, by the way, is a powerful aphrodisiac, which is why oriental scents are so seductive.

Fruit aromas

Ripe, sun-drenched fruits have a stunning aroma. It would be strange not to use them in perfumery. Apple, mango, pear, peach, pineapple, papaya and other fruit aromas fill perfumes with warmth and tenderness, and therefore are considered more feminine. They are also found in men's perfumes, but in much lower concentrations.

Floral scents

This family of fragrances is the most extensive. These include rose, tuberose, jasmine, violet, orange blossom, champaca and dozens of other lesser-known but no less pleasant floral scents. However, a perfume composition is rarely dominated by the scent of a single flower; usually it contains a whole range of flowers, which, however, only makes it more interesting and richer.

Herbaceous (green) aromas

This type of perfume composition is based on fresh, energetic aromas of herbs. Mint, sage, chamomile, marjoram, lemon grass, rosemary are the most prominent representatives of this group. Since these aromas are quite rich and sharp, they are more often used in men's perfumery. However, do not forget that, therefore, you should not pay special attention to this point.

Chypre fragrances

Another great option for nature lovers. Bergamot, patchouli, oakmoss and cistus are the main components of these compositions. The perfumes produced on their basis combine the incredible - invigorating freshness with exquisite sweetness, and all this is shaded with a slight bitterness. If you fall in love with these scents, then immediately and forever.

Fougere aromas

Fougere or fern scents are somewhat similar to chypre ones, but without unnecessary sweetness. They have a fresh, slightly bitter smell, based on the aromas of bergamot, coumarin and wood moss. By the way, the name of the group has nothing to do with either wine glasses or ferns. She (the group) received this name as an inheritance from the first perfume with this smell, released in 1882. It was called "Royal Fern", a fern translated from the French "fougere".

Woody aromas

Woody aromas include perfume compositions based on honey, spices, oak moss, cedar, vetiver, sandalwood and amber. They also often include various resins and balms. Woody compositions form the basis of many unisex perfumes, as their aroma suits both men and women well.

Leather fragrances

Juniper, birch tar, vetiver and oak – these extracts form the basis of leather fragrances loved by many. Perfumes with the scent of leather have admirers among people of all age groups - many people like their warmth, thoroughness, solidity and, of course, a pleasant “expensive” trail.

You can become the owner of an original fragrance without resorting to the services of a professional perfumer. Making your own perfume from essential oils at home is not at all difficult, the main thing is to use high-quality components and follow the rules for composing perfume compositions.

Let's start doing it - is it difficult?

We reveal the secrets of creating your own perfume from essential oils!

Homemade perfume recipes include essential oils and a base - alcohol or oil. Also prepare:

• resealable dark glass bottles;
• dishes for mixing components;
• pipettes;
• scent sampling strips.

Alcohol and oil perfumes differ in their properties and durability. In the first case, the smell disappears faster, but reveals itself fully and richly. But in oil-based perfumes the aroma is muted, but more persistent. And the shelf life of such perfumes is longer than alcohol ones. But oil perfumes can leave marks on clothes!

Choose unscented oil for the base - olive, almond, grape, cocoa, jojoba. If it is alcohol, then buy medical alcohol at the pharmacy. There you will also find essential and base oils. You can also purchase them in online stores: Aromashka, iHerb, Aromarti and others.

The smell of perfume can be intense - the total content of essential oils is 30-40%. And for delicate, soft, discreet aromas - 10-15%.

When making your own essential oil perfume, record each drop you add. This will allow you to save the exact proportions of successful perfume compositions and use them in the future.

About the notes and strength of perfume

The principle of constructing perfumes is based on a little trick: the mixture includes three notes of aromas - top, middle and base. How are they different?

The top note, or “head” of a perfume composition, is the first impression, those aromas that are felt when the perfume evaporates from the surface of the skin within 10-30 minutes after application. We feel them when we smell a bottle of perfume. The initial note contains the most volatile phytoessences - with a high evaporation rate. These include light herbal and fruity aromas, for example:

• lemon, tangerine and other citrus fruits,
• basilica,
• lemon balm,
• mint,
• rosemary,
• verbena.

Strong-smelling perfumes based on essential oils often contain a large percentage of top note aromas. After all, they are the ones who evaporate faster and give the perfume its original brightness.

The middle note, the “heart”, is the basis of the composition - less light phytoessences, disappear within 8-24 hours:

• sage,
• hyssop,
• geraniums,
• lavender,
• jasmine,
• nutmeg,
• cypress,
• myrtle,
• ylang-ylang,
• daisies.

The base note includes heavy, long-lasting oils. We wear this scent on our skin the longest - it becomes distinguishable when the components of the “head” and “heart” of the perfume have evaporated. Bottom note oils are obtained from spices, plant resins, roots, fruits, flowers, seeds, fruits and tree bark. Examples of phytoessences:

• vanilla,
• ginger,
• patchouli,
• juniper,
• myrrh,
• sandalwood,
• rosewood,
• cumin,
• incense,
• carnations,
• neroli,
• fennel.

Each note of natural perfumes should contain no more than three essential oils, that is, to create a perfume with your own hands, choose a maximum of 9 phytoessences.

Essential oils cannot be used in their pure form as perfumes, as they can cause skin burns or an allergic reaction. The aromatic component of perfume is always dissolved in a carrier base - fatty oil or alcohol.

Many essential oil manufacturers create packaging in different colors. It's comfortable. For example, Vivasan has yellow, pink and green for the top, middle and base notes respectively.

• top 30%,
• average 50%,
• bottom 20%.

Such precision is not necessary, since when creating perfumes, the result depends on personal feelings and the selected components.

Fragrance families will help you choose

Any mixture can be attributed to a specific family of fragrances:

1. Citrus scents - include oils of bergamot, orange, grapefruit, tangerine, lemongrass (lime), lemon. They were part of the first colognes and eau de toilette.
2. Florals are a large family of scents; perfumes often use compositions of the aromas of several flowers. Rose, violet, jasmine, ylang-ylang, neroli (orange flower), and lilac are popular in perfumery.
3. Woody - aromas with notes of slight tartness or sweetness. They give the perfume sophistication and warmth. These are essential oils of sandalwood, iris, rosewood, myrtle, and patchouli.
4. Fern, or fougere, are compositions of lavender, woody scents with hints of bergamot, geranium, suede or moss. Fresh and tart.
5. Oriental (oriental, amber) - warm, sweet, sensual scents. The base is amber or musk combined with vanilla, aromas of resins and tree bark.
6. Spicy - close to oriental, but more tart. To create, oils of cinnamon, ginger, pepper, cloves and other spices and herbs are used.
7. Chypre - based on patchouli, bergamot, oakmoss, resin aromas. A classic for men's perfume. In combination with citrus fruits they create interesting feminine aromas and unisex perfumes.
8. Leather - a synthesis of floral notes with resinous, woody, juniper oils. Such mixtures give unusual smells - smoke, burnt wood, tobacco. Used primarily to create men's perfume.
9. Water, or aquatic - aromas of freshness, dew, fog, sea breeze, mountain air, summer rain, ozone. In such compositions, essential oils of mint and other herbs, citrus fruits, violets, and lemon are used. It is difficult to make natural perfumes with an aquatic aroma at home, since synthetic molecules are used in their creation.
10. Gourmet - a family of scents mostly with artificial ingredients. Perfumers create eau de toilette and perfumes with the aroma of caramel, candy, chocolate, cotton candy, saffron, cola, and pear. It’s unlikely that you can do this at home, but warm, delicious compositions with vanilla, orange, cinnamon, and ginger oils are quite possible.

There are also fruity, woody-oriental, green and other families of scents.

Which base is better to choose for your perfume?

The base makes the perfume easier to use and helps the components combine into a harmonious aroma.

Oil perfumes are persistent, but not bright (discreet), since the oil particles hold molecules of volatile aromatic compounds more firmly together. Essential components in such a perfume are no more than 10% of the total volume (20 drops per 10 ml). After mixing, it is better to let the perfume brew for 1-2 weeks. Disadvantage - cannot be applied to clothes and hair.

You can also make solid perfumes using an oil base. This is a great gift idea and a convenient option for carrying perfume with you, for example, in a locket or compact jar. They are even used as fragrances, for example, in cars. To create solid perfumes, add cosmetic wax to a liquid oil base or use hardening butters - shea, shea butter, cocoa, coconut.

Alcohol-based perfumes are rich, brighter, but evaporate quickly. After creation, they are left to stand for 1-3 months, shaking from time to time.

The procedure for a home perfumer is simple:

• Pre-select the scents of essential oils by applying them dropwise onto paper strips.
• Pour alcohol and water (or oil) into a clean, dry container.
• Add essential oils in order - base notes, middle notes and lastly top notes.
• Close the bottle, shake and leave to infuse in a cool, dark place.

Revealing secrets!

You can create natural scents yourself or use ready-made perfume recipes from essential oils.

• Perfume “Freshness of citruses”

Fresh, cool citrus scent with floral notes. Phytoessences in drops per 10 ml of alcohol:

• myrrh - 2,
• neroli - 3,
• myrtle - 1,
• lavender - 2,
• roses - 1,
• petitgrain - 5,
• bergamot - 2,
• bitter orange - 2.
• Perfume "English Garden"

For 20 ml of 80% alcohol and 3 ml of distilled water, take essential oils (in drops):

• valerian - 4,
• chamomile - 4,
• hyssop - 1,
• lavender - 2.

Oil perfume recipes for making yourself

For the base, choose one fatty oil, such as almond. And add the selected phytoessences drop by drop.

• Perfume "Tenderness"

Refined floral aroma. For 20 ml of base oil you will need essential oils (in drops):

• sandalwood - 3,
• blue iris - 3,
• jasmine - 1,
• roses - 1.
• Perfume “Southern Night”

Warm sweet scent with spicy, seductive notes. Add the following essential oils drop by drop to 10 ml of base:

• patchouli - 2,
• rosewood - 1,
• sandalwood - 1,
• vanilla - 2,
• jasmine - 1,
• clary sage - 1,
• neroli - 1,
• ylang-ylang - 1,
• tangerine - 1.

To make solid oil perfume, use the same mixing scheme, only instead of liquid base oil, take solid oil (Shea, cocoa or shea butter) and cosmetic wax previously melted in a water bath. Pour the prepared but not yet hardened mixture into a medallion or flat jar with a lid and wait until it hardens completely (30–40 minutes).

Perfume is an aphrodisiac to attract men

The recipes for these perfumes will not leave men indifferent!

Aphrodisiac oils affect the nervous system, enhancing sensuality and stimulating sexual desire. Among them are phytoessences of sandalwood, cedar, jasmine, bergamot, patchouli, ylang-ylang.

Recipe for aphrodisiac perfume (in drops per 10 ml of fatty oil):

• sandal - 2,
• cinnamon - 1,
• vanilla - 1,
• bergamot - 1.

The Aphrodite mixture is also known, in which 20 ml of base oil contains 3 drops of phytoessences of ylang-ylang and rosemary and 2 drops of grapefruit.

Famous perfumes - revealing recipes 😉

The ingredients of famous fragrances are often kept secret. But some recipes for famous perfumes are also available for creating at home. In production, components are used that are inaccessible to the average person, and the exact proportions are not disclosed. But, knowing the composition of all three notes of the aroma, you can reproduce something close in sound to the original perfume.

Montale Candy Rose:

• Base: vanilla;
• “Heart” of the scent: rose, patchouli, lily of the valley, jasmine;
• Top: raspberry, tangerine, lychee, blood orange.

Nina Ricci Nina L'eau:

• Base notes: musk;
• Base: cherry and gardenia;
• “Head” of the composition: neroli, mandarin, grapefruit.

Chanel Chance Eau Vive:

• Base: vetiver and white musk;
• "Heart": jasmine;
• Top: grapefruit and blood orange.

You can find the composition of famous perfumes and eau de toilettes in any major online perfume store and try your hand at creating your favorite scents.