Decoration of clothes in the old days. Presentation on the topic: "Clothes in Ancient Russia

How they dressed in the old days The old clothes of the Russian nobility in their cut generally resembled the clothes of people of the lower class, although they differed greatly in the quality of the material and decoration. The body was fitted with a wide shirt, which did not reach the knees, made of simple canvas or silk, depending on the wealth of the owner. At an elegant shirt, usually red, the edges and chest were embroidered with gold and silk, a richly decorated collar was fastened at the top with silver or gold buttons (it was called a “necklace”). In simple, cheap shirts, the buttons were copper or replaced with cufflinks with loops. The shirt was worn over the underwear. Short ports or trousers were worn on the legs without a cut, but with a knot that allowed them to be pulled together or expanded in the belt at will, and with pockets (zep). Pants were sewn from taffeta, silk, cloth, and also from coarse woolen fabric or canvas. A narrow sleeveless zipun made of silk, taffeta or dyed, with a narrow small collar fastened (encirclement) was worn over the shirt and trousers. Zipun reached the knees and usually served as home clothes. A common and widespread type of outerwear worn over a zipun was a caftan with sleeves reaching to the heels. In elegant caftans, sometimes a pearl necklace was attached behind a standing collar, and a “wrist” decorated with gold embroidery and pearls was fastened to the edges of the sleeves; the floors were sheathed with braid with lace embroidered with silver or gold. Among the caftans, they were distinguished according to their purpose: dining, riding, rain, "tearful" (mourning). Winter caftans made with fur were called "casings". Sometimes a “feryaz” (ferez) was put on the zipun, which was an outer garment without a collar, reaching to the ankles, with long sleeves tapering to the wrist; it was fastened in front with buttons or ties. Winter feryazi were made on fur, and summer ones on a simple lining. In winter, sleeveless feryazi were sometimes worn under the caftan. Elegant feryazi were sewn from velvet, satin, taffeta, damask, cloth and decorated with silver lace. The fur coat was considered the most elegant clothing. It was not only put on when going out in the cold, but the custom allowed the owners to sit in fur coats even while receiving guests. Simple fur coats were made from sheepskin or hare fur, marten and squirrel were higher in quality; noble and rich people had fur coats with sable, fox, beaver or ermine fur. Fur coats were covered with cloth, taffeta, satin, velvet, obyary or simple dye, decorated with pearls, stripes and fastened with buttons with loops or long laces with tassels at the end. "Russian" fur coats had a turn-down fur collar. "Polish" fur coats were sewn with a narrow collar, with fur cuffs and fastened at the neck only with a cuff (double metal button).

How they dressed in the old days The women's outerwear was a long cloth fringe, which had a long row of pewter, silver or gold buttons from top to bottom. Under the long sleeves, slits were made under the armpits for the arms, a wide round fur collar was fastened around the neck, covering the chest and shoulders. The hem and armholes were decorated with embroidered braid. A long sundress with sleeves or without sleeves, with armholes, was widespread; the front slit was fastened from top to bottom with buttons. A bodysuit was worn on a sundress. On their heads, married women wore “hairs” in the form of a small cap, which for rich women was made of gold or silk fabric with decorations on it. Over the hair, the head was covered with a white scarf (ubrus), the ends of which, decorated with pearls, were tied under the chin. When leaving the house, married women put on a “kiku”, which surrounded the head in the form of a wide ribbon, the ends of which were connected at the back of the head; the top was covered with colored cloth; the front of the cholie was richly decorated with pearls and precious stones; the headdress could be separated or attached to another headdress, depending on the need. In front of the kick, pearl strands (lower) that fell to the shoulders were hung, four or six on each side. When leaving the house, women put on a hat with a brim and with falling red cords or a black velvet hat with a fur trim over the ubrus. The kokoshnik served as a headdress for both women and girls. It looked like a fan or a fan attached to a volosnik. The headpiece of the kokoshnik was embroidered with gold, pearls or multi-colored silk and beads. Women and girls of all strata of the population adorned themselves with earrings, which were varied: copper, silver, gold, with yachts, emeralds, "sparks" (small pebbles). Solid gemstone earrings were rare. Bracelets with pearls and stones served as decoration for the hands, and on the fingers there were rings and rings, gold and silver, with small pearls.

Paneva Paneva (ponyova, understood, pony, ponka) is a women's woolen skirt worn by peasant women. It is a waist garment made of three or more partially sewn pieces of wool fabric, specially made on a loom. Paneva is an ancient type of women's clothing, it was worn in combination with a kichka and special breast and shoulder clothing. These are the clothes of mostly married women, the girls put them on when they reached puberty, and sometimes during the wedding ceremony. Panevs differ in cut and color. According to the cut, panevs are oar, open in front or on the side and with a seam, deaf. Both types are inherent in the regions of southern Russia. In the Smolensk province, among the swing panyas, there are a spreader, in which one panel is located in front and two behind, so that both sides are open, and a different shelf, consisting of three panels of different lengths, of which the short one is located on the right, and a third of the first and third panels were worn with they turned away with a tuck and threw it over the belt.

Sundress Sundress folk Russian women's clothing. Dress, most often sleeveless. Sundresses differed in fabrics and cut. Sundresses were worn in Central and Eastern Europe. Forms and styles of making sundresses have changed from century to century, from north to south, from a peasant woman to a noblewoman. In the 14th century, governors and great Moscow princes could wear a sundress. It became the final accessory of the women's wardrobe only in the 17th century. In Russian villages, one could learn from a sarafan about the social status of a woman and about her mood. Russian sarafans consisted of many elements, so they were very heavy, especially festive ones. Sheared sarafans were sewn from "hair" sheep's wool, woven black with a decoction of alder and oak. Festive and "everyday" sundresses differed. Festive ones for every day were decorated along the hem with a "chitan" ("gaitan", "gaytanchik") with a thin 1 cm braid of homemade red wool. The top was decorated with a strip of velvet. However, not only woolen sundresses were worn every day. Like a light, homely clothing "Sayan", a straight sarafan made of satin, gathered in a small fold along the back and sides. The young wore "red" or "burgundy" Saiyans, while the elderly wore blue and black ones. In the Smolensk region, a skew-wedge sundress (except for the common modern name “dress”), depending on its type, place of existence, cut, material, is called differently: feryaz (“queen”), sukman, sukmanka, sinikin, klinastic, nasovka, half-wallet, Chinese ("titaika").

Shirt In Russia, it was customary to trim shirts with embroidery along the most “vulnerable” places for evil forces at the collar, along the edges of the sleeves, on the shoulders, and especially along the hem. Embroidery served as a talisman; it was dominated by solar symbols, as well as images of birds, especially roosters, which were traditionally considered guardians, driving away evil spirits. In the 17th and 18th centuries, a border was sewn on shirts along the hem. In rich shirts, gold braid or gold braid was sewn along the seams. A shirt without a border was called a cover. In the folk costume, the shirt was the outer garment, and in the costume of the nobility, the lower one. At home, the boyars wore a maid's shirt; it was always silk. The colors of the shirts are different: more often white, blue and red (red shirts were worn along with white ports). They wore them loose and girdled with a narrow belt. A lining was sewn onto the back and chest of the shirt, which was called the background.

Women's headdresses In the general set of women's peasant costumes, an important item was a headdress. At the end of the 19th century, in the Smolensk region, in combination with a wedge-shaped sarafan, old, traditional forms of headdresses continued to exist: collections, warriors, kokoshniks, duckweeds, kits, magpies, fly, shawls "khransuskie", "punching" silk, shawls ... Blanks, Separate parts for headdresses came mainly from the neighboring Tver province: from Torzhok - velvet and brocade headbands, embroidered with gold, silver and silk threads, butt pads; from Rzhev - pearl and beaded duckweeds ... These hats were expensive and not everyone had them.

Men's hats Hats played a big role in the costume. In the old days, men's hats were made with a bright-colored velvet top of a conical or rounded shape, but always with a fur band. The edge of expensive fur or even earmuffs were a hallmark of princely hats. Over time, the hat became a symbol of a certain social stratum. That is why they did not take off their hats indoors, at a party, at receptions, and even in front of the sovereign. The higher the hat was sewn, the more noble was the boyar who wore it. This meaning of the word "hat" is still preserved in the proverb "According to Senka and a hat." High hats signified the nobility of the clan and dignity. Coming home, they did not throw an expensive hat, but put it on a special fixture, painted and being an ornament in the house. It was called a dummy. In the XV-XVII centuries. caps of the Russian nobility were of four types. Rich people, following Eastern customs, at home put on a shaved head a small velvet cap, embroidered with gold embroidery, beads and pearls, such as a round or square skullcap. She was called tafya or skufya. They wore such hats at home and did not take them off even in church. A special decree of the Church Council of 1551 forbade even rich people to enter the church in tafyas. Another form of cap was the already known and previously pointed cap. The rich wore caps made of satin, usually white, with a fastened band, studded with pearls and gold buttons, precious stones.

Onuchi Onucha is a long wide (about 30 cm) strip of white, black or brown fabric (canvas, woolen) for winding the leg to the knee (when wearing bast shoes). Such strips of fabric were wrapped around the entire foot and lower leg. Onuchi, if they were worn with short shoes or without them at all, they were tied to the leg with leather twists or rope or bast, knitted or wicker frills. The first ones were used on weekdays, the second ones (usually white or red) on holidays. Obory tied around the leg crosswise or in coils. Usually in the summer they wore canvas (linen or hemp fabric) onuchi, in winter they wore cloth (woolen fabric of linen weaving) and canvas together.

Lapti Bast shoes are low shoes, common in Russia in the old days, but, nevertheless, were widely used in the countryside until the 1930s, woven from wood bast (linden, elm, and others) or birch bark. Bast shoes were tied to the leg with laces twisted from the same bast from which the bast shoes themselves were made. Bast shoes were worn with footcloths (onuchi). From the bast shoes up and around the shin, in the manner of the ancient Greek sandal, there was a bast lace, which was attached to the bottom of the bast shoe and kept the footcloth from unwinding. Nevertheless, when walking for a long time, I periodically had to change shoes and rewind stray footcloths. The weaving of bast shoes was in Russia the winter occupation of the peasants, when there was no field work. Bast harvesting was carried out in a certain summer season, when the bast had the necessary strength characteristics. New, just woven bast shoes were made in one block and in a pair did not differ left from right. A pair of bast shoes was enough for a man for a week no more. Hence the saying: “Go on the road to weave five bast shoes!”.

Boots Footwear for wealthy people consisted of boots, chobots, shoes and ichetygi. They were made from the soft skin of morocco goats. Boots were also made from thick yuft leather and calfskin calf. Just like fabrics, leathers were dyed in different colors. Velvet and brocade served as material for princely shoes. Chobots are pointed and half boots with heels bent up. Boots were worn to the knees, and they served as protection for the legs, so they were lined with soft canvas. In the old days, boots were without heels and had soles that were soft in several layers of leather and pointed toes. Later, a heel appeared and the saying was added: “Fly from under the toe, the nightingale will fly, and around the heel, roll the egg.” The heels were attached with iron or silver staples, and the soles with nails. The front of the boot was usually higher than the back, the seams were located on the sides. Shoes were cut on one foot, since the blocks with which the shoes were sewn did not distinguish between the right and left boots. So they said: "Two pair of boots, and both on the left foot." Therefore, new boots took a long time to break in. Boots were made in black, green, and yellow, but most often red. The edges of the tops of rich boots were trimmed with braid, stripes of bright fabric, not to mention embroidery: even pearls could be seen on the boots of the most noble ones. The boots were quite expensive. For one pair of boots in the XV century. it was possible to replace 7 pounds of rye flour or 16 kg of butter. Therefore, most often rich people made shoes at home, for which they kept experienced slave shoemakers.

NECK JEWELRY In the burial mounds of the Smolensk region, rather frequent finds are necklaces made of beads and sometimes metal pendants; the most common beads are glass gilded or silver-plated, barrel-shaped or cylindrical; lunnitsa, round lamellar or openwork pendants, bells, occasionally, drilled fangs of animals served as pendants; Of greatest interest are pendants in the form of a plate horse, the body of which is usually decorated with a circular pattern, since over 80% of such decorations were found on the territory of the Krivichi.

Clothing from the very beginning of time expressed the characteristics of the one who wears it. Ethnic groups, entire nationalities were formed, and what they dressed in was directly related to culture, religion, living conditions, and lifestyle.

All these signs can be found in the design of the clothes of the people who lived in the times of Ancient Russia.

Names of clothes in Ancient Russia

Old Russian clothes are distinguished by a bright originality, which, however, was not formed without the use of some elements from other cultures. The shirt and trousers (ports) were the basis for outfits of all strata of society.

At its core, a shirt can be viewed as a simple underwear. The nobility wore it as underwear under an expensive outfit, and among ordinary peasants it was used as the main clothing. Therefore, shirts for different classes had completely different external characteristics. Decorated with rich embroidery and precious stones, long shirts made of colored silk, of course, were available only to princes and all nobles.

A commoner in Ancient Russia could only afford to wear linen clothes. Small children were also dressed in a shirt. At the same time, in order to protect them from the evil eye and harmful forces, up to three years old clothes were altered from the parent.

Ports were another mass accessory for men's clothing. They were trousers, tapering to the bottom, and hemmed them from coarse homespun fabrics. To know, over simple trousers, she put on more expensive ones, sewn from foreign fabrics.

Features of women's clothing in Ancient Russia

Old Russian women's clothing did not have a wide variety of cuts, however, like men's, it determined the material condition and status of the hostess. The lighter and more pleasant to the touch the outfit was, the richer and more numerous the decorations were on it, the higher the class belonged to its wearer.

Women's wardrobe in Ancient Russia consisted of the following elements:

1. First of all, of course, the shirt. In the female version, it was also called a shirt. Especially loved by the girls of Ancient Russia was canvas clothes called "zapona". The canvas of the desired size was bent in half, and a cutout was made in the middle for the head. They put on a zapon over a shirt, then beautifully girded it.
2. For holidays or special occasions, there was a pommel. It was usually worn with expensive fabric, which was trimmed with bright embroidery and rich ornaments. Today, the pommel could be called a tunic with or without a sleeve.
3. A married woman could be distinguished by a poneva - this was the name of a wide strip of woolen fabric wrapped around her hips and fastened with a belt at the waist. The color of the poneva was different for different tribes. For example, among the Vyatichi it was in a blue cage, and the Radimichi preferred red.
4. The festive shirt is long-sleeved - women dressed in it only on special days.
5. The head of a woman was necessarily covered with a warrior.

Winter clothes of Ancient Russia

The geographical areas of residence of the ancient Russian peoples, as well as climatic conditions, consisting of frosty winters and rather cool summers, could not but affect clothing. To survive in winter, the Russians wore a casing - outerwear made of fur-bearing animals with fur inside.

A more affordable option, a sheepskin coat, was made using the same method from sheepskin, and was worn mainly by peasants. Fur coats and sheepskin coats made of valuable fur worn by the nobility not only protected them from freezing, but were also used to emphasize their position in any season.

Despite the fact that the clothes of Ancient Russia had clear differences in terms of belonging (for the upper classes - from foreign fabrics, and for the lower ones - homespun), in general, they had common features. The main ones are layering, intricate embroidery, and complex ornamentation. Moreover, the latter did not just play the role of jewelry, but were considered amulets that protect against grief and dark forces.

1. Through the history of the Russian costume, show the life of a person, tell what role clothing played in it.

2. To teach by clothes to determine the era in which a person lived, his social status.

3. Introduce children to new words, with the names of the details of old Russian clothing.

4. To teach children to see history in the objects that surround us.

5. Develop imaginative thinking in oral work.

During the classes.

Stages:

I. Organizational moment.

II. Reviewing what was learned in the previous lesson.

In the previous lesson, we talked about clothes. Remind me why a person needs clothes? (Its purpose: not only warms, protects, decorates a person, but also shows his place in society.)

The task is the game “Dress the doll”.

Choose ancient Greek and Roman clothes and dress up a paper doll. ( Appendix 1 (pril1.zip))(Ancient Greece: tunic, himation. Ancient Rome: tunic, toga).

Why did the ancient Greeks have such revealing clothing? (Because warm, mild climate)

Could Roman clothing have taken root in other countries? In Europe? (Europe has a harsh climate and such clothing would be cold and uncomfortable)

III. Announcement of the topic and objectives of the lesson.

In Russia, the climate was also not hot - long winters and cool summers - another people lived with their own customs and traditions. Therefore, the clothes of the inhabitants of Ancient Russia were completely different. And what it was like - we'll talk about this in today's lesson, its topic is: "How they dressed in Russia." In the lesson, we will learn how the costume changed in different centuries. Let's see what role clothing played in the life of a Russian person.

IV. New material.

1. 1. “They meet by clothes ...” This well-known proverb came to us from the depths of centuries. A thousand years ago, it was enough for our ancestors to look at the clothes of a stranger once to understand what locality he is from, what kind of tribe he belongs to, whether he is married, whether he is married, whether he is rich or poor.

This made it possible to immediately decide how to behave with a stranger and what to expect from him.

2. And in ancient times, Russians called clothes - “clothes”. And the main garment was a Russian shirt. Ancestors believed that clothing is amulet. (the word "Charm" is put on the board) amulet means to protect. What does it protect from? From bad weather, shelters from the "evil eye", from the effects of evil forces. Therefore, all the vulnerable places of the human body were hidden: Ancient shirts were necessarily long - below the knee, had an almost closed collar, long sleeves to the wrists.

Everyone wore shirts: girls and boys, boys and girls, men and women, rich and poor.

2. Men's clothing of the tenth century.

As the story progresses, the teacher puts the drawings on the blackboard in a certain order. (The design of the board is presented in Appendix 2).

<Рисунок 1>A peasant shirt was sewn from canvas. They wore it for graduation and girdled with a narrow belt or colored cord. It was both upper and lower clothing.

<Рисунок 2>Since the clothes were festive and everyday, they put on a shirt on special occasions. sleeves(all underlined words are put on the board) and detachable round collars.

Picture 1

Figure 2

Noble people put on another, upper, richer shirt over the lower one. Ports or pants were not wide, narrowed down, tied at the waist with a cord.

3. Women's clothes of peasants.

Women also wore a shirt, but it was long, to the feet (like a dress) with long sleeves. The collar and the bottom of the sleeves were decorated with embroidery. The shirt was sewn from white linen or colored silk and worn with a belt.

<Рисунок 3>Worn over a shirt ponyuvu- a skirt consisting of 3 unsewn rectangular pieces of fabric, fastened to a strap. Poneva - meant a piece of cloth, a veil. She was shorter than a shirt, and in front her floors diverged. The fabric for the pony was colorful, with a checkered pattern (from the cells one could guess the village where the woman came from).

What were the peasants doing? They worked, and during work it was possible to tuck the corners of the poneva and put it in the belt so as not to interfere with movements.

<Рисунок 4>outerwear was zapon - overhead clothing, unstitched on the sides. The zapona was shorter than the shirt. It was worn with a belt and cut off at the bottom.

Figure 3

Figure 4

• What were the shoes of the peasants?
• What were the bast shoes made of? (from birch bark, from bast)

Birch bark is the top layer of bark stripped from birch. It was divided into strips and bast shoes were woven. (Showing bast shoes: sandals from aspen are light, from birch - yellow) But they took not only birch bark, but also linden, and aspen, and other trees. In different areas they wove in different ways (with and without a side).

Bast shoes were fastened to the leg with long strings or ropes. They dressed not on a bare leg, but on onuchi- pieces of fabric up to two meters long.

Practical work: putting onuche and bast shoes on the student.

Story while dressing:

Onuchi were wrapped around the leg in a certain way, covering the bottom of the pants. Weaving bast shoes was considered an easy job, which men did literally in between times. But bast shoes did not last long. In winter, they were worn in 10 days, after a thaw - in 4, in the summer in the field - in 3 days. Going on a long journey, they took a lot of spare bast shoes with them on the road. There is a proverb: "To go on the road - weave five bast shoes."

And merchants and noble people wore boots.

5. Clothing of noble people.

<Рисунок 5>Rich, noble women put on clothes called retinue. She had wide sleeves. In cold weather they wore raincoats.

<Рисунок 6>Scientists learned from handwritten books about what clothes the prince had (the prince is the ruler of the region, the leader of the army).

The prince is wearing a green retinue with golden sleeves. blue cloak Korzno with a golden border (only princes wore such a cloak) on a beautiful lining. On the head is a round hat with fur. On her feet are green boots made of very soft leather.

Figure 5

Figure 6

6. Let's repeat, what was common in the clothes of peasants and rich, noble people? (Everyone wore shirts)

There were casual and festive shirts.

Everyday shirts were almost not decorated - only the seams and edges were sheathed with red thread to block the way for evil forces.

For weddings, religious and labor holidays, our ancestors wore richly embroidered shirts. And since it was believed that on holidays a person talks with God, then the shirt also, as it were, participated in this “conversation”, in its language ornament- a repeating pattern - all the requests and desires of a person were recorded. Women diligently covered the collar, cuffs, shirt hem and sleeves near the shoulders with a pattern.

Reading a table. (A symbol table is posted on the board)

For security purposes, amulets (figurines) were worn on a cord or on a belt. The horse is a symbol of goodness and happiness, the wisdom of the gods. Spoon - satiety and well-being. The key - helped to preserve and increase wealth. Amulets in the form of weapons were purely masculine.

Creative task - each student is given paper templates in the form of a shirt and red pencils.

Explanation of the task: imagine ourselves as craftswomen of that time and “embroider” a pattern on shirts, write down our requests with symbols. Think about what kind of shirt you will have: everyday or festive.

(After completing the task, several students show their work in front of the class and decipher the symbols).

7. XV - XVII centuries.

And now let's look at the XV-XVII centuries. and find out how the people of Muscovite Russia dressed.

Men's clothing.

<Рисунок 7>men began to wear caftans. They were very different. Some are short, others are long, made of patterned expensive fabrics. Some were trimmed with buttonholes, metal and wooden buttons were sewn on. On others, the collar and bottom of the sleeves were beautifully embroidered with gold and silver.

<Рисунок 8>Fur coats were traditionally Russian clothing. She, as a valuable gift, was awarded for good service.

From above, the fur coats were covered with fabric, and the fur of sable, fox, arctic fox served as a lining. The fur coat was fastened with cords.

In Russia, the winter was cold and everyone wore a fur coat. And some boyars and nobles put on a fur coat in the summer and did not take it off even indoors, as a sign of their dignity.

Figure 7

Figure 8

8. Women's clothing.

<Рисунок 9>Wealthy women wear flyer- clothing extended downwards. A feature of the letnik was wide bell-shaped sleeves, sewn only to the elbow, then they hang freely to the waist. At the bottom they were embroidered with gold, pearls, silk.

<Рисунок 10>look at the picture and tell me what is the name of this clothes? (Sundress).

Figure 9

Figure 10

A sundress is a sleeveless dress worn over a long-sleeved shirt.

What do you think, whose clothes were the sundress, peasant women or rich women?

The fact is that the sundress, as scientists studying the history of the costume suggest, was first the clothes of women from the royal family and noble noblewomen. Only they were allowed to wear these outfits from expensive overseas fabrics - silk and velvet. Sundresses were richly decorated with embroidery and precious stones.

The Russian folk melody is included. A woman in a Russian costume enters the class.

“But she herself is majestic, acts like a peahen.” And indeed, a woman in a sundress does not walk, but “acts”, majestically and smoothly.

Fizminutka. The game is a round dance for words:

“Like in our lesson, Red Russian sundress
Here is such a width, Here is such a knot,
Here is such a beauty. Sing along soon:
Sundress, sundress, red Russian sundress!”

A woman in a suit puts on a shower jacket. - Dressed over a sundress I warm my soul- (warms the soul) short, wide clothes.

9. Hats. Pay attention to the headdress of our Russian beauty. It's called kokoshnik- This is the dress of a married woman. It was the most elegant headdress, it was embroidered with pearls. <Рисунок 11>

Figure 11

In the cold season, women of all ages covered their heads with a warm scarf. Only he was tied not under the chin, as we are used to, but in other ways.

Practical work. In front of the class, six students are tied with scarves, each in a special way. Example

And what hairstyles were worn in Ancient Russia?

Young girls wore their hair loose. But it is not convenient to work, wash, cook food with loose hair, so they tied it with a headband (show). They also braided their hair in a braid - certainly one - as a sign that while single - one). Only married women were allowed to weave two braids. They were wrapped around the head.

The girl's braid was considered a symbol of honor. To pull the scythe meant to offend.

10. XVII century. Let's travel to the 18th century.

In Russia, becoming Tsar Peter I changed a lot in the state, clothes also changed.

Peter forbade the boyars, all rich people to wear the old Russian costume and instead ordered the men to wear a short, tight caftan and camisole, long stockings and buckled shoes, a white wig or powdered hair and shave off beards.

<Рисунок 12>look at this and at the former costume of the boyars. They are completely different.

Imagine, now our president is issuing a decree that all men and boys wear skirts and dresses. And the girls were ordered to shave their heads. Would you like it? Even at that time, many people did not like Peter's decree.

<Рисунок 13>Women's costume was distinguished by splendor and wealth. Women wore dresses with a deep collar, such a collar was called - neckline. The dresses were fitted with a wide skirt. They wore corsages to be slimmer.

Be sure to wear a wig and high heels. Such clothes were supposed to be worn by people surrounding the king, and those who did not want to obey state decrees were forced by force, fined.

Everyone else was allowed to wear old boyar clothes, including a sundress. This is how the sundress became the favorite women's outfit of the common people. (The pattern of the sundress is outweighed)

Figure 12

Figure 13

V. Checking the assimilation of new material.

At the lesson, we looked at how the Russian costume changed over time.

Questions for children:

1. What is the purpose of the clothes of Ancient Russia?

• kept from the cold
• Amulet - protected from dark forces
• Decorated a person
• Shows his place in society.

2. All details of the Russian costume are “talking”. What can they tell?

• Rich or poor person
• Distinguish a girl from a married woman
• Festive or everyday wear

Task 1: try to determine who is in front of you from the illustration. <Рисунок 14,15,16,17>

Task 2: From the illustrations on the board, choose the costume that you liked the most and name all the details of this costume.

Like everything in the world, "talking" clothes are born and die. And now we wear very different clothes from what we used to wear. But we can in our time see people dressed in a Russian folk costume. Where can we do it? (At national holidays, at concerts, at the cinema).

Some elements of the Russian folk costume are used in modern clothes. (In the summer we wear sundresses, we put on scarves, shawls, mittens, embroidery, etc.)

Figure 14

Figure 15

Figure 16

Figure 17

VI. Summarizing. Homework.

What interesting things did you learn in the lesson?

Homework:

1. Text in the textbook on p. 63, answer questions.

2. Guess the crossword puzzle (given to each student). It encodes the names of the elements of Old Russian clothing.

Bibliography.

1. Kaminskaya N.M. Costume history.
2. Nersesov N.Ya. I Know the World: Children's Encyclopedia: Fashion History
3. Semenova M. Life and beliefs of the ancient Slavs.
4. We read, study, play // No. 7, 1998.

In the old days, clothes not only warmed and adorned, but also spoke about the origin of a person (poor or rich). Naturally, the royal and boyar dresses differed from the peasant ones. The peasants sewed clothes from simple fabrics - linen, wool. And the nobles decorated it with precious stones, beads, embroidered with gold and silver. Boyar costume could weigh kg.

Russian medieval costume was very different from Western European. The testimonies of foreigners are interesting: “Their men’s clothes are very similar to Greek”, “The cut of clothes is the same for everyone, but they use different materials”, “Muscovites are very scolding short Italian, French, Spanish, German clothes, because it leaves open those parts of the body that should be hidden the most. They themselves, following the custom of the whole East, dress for gravity in two or three dresses almost to the heels. The sleeves they wear are pretty long, so you can't even see your hands when they're doing something."

Spinners Peasants made all their clothes at home. She was called that - homespun. Linen threads were obtained from the fiber contained in the stems of this plant. Flax stalks were first soaked in water for a long time. When the outer shell rotted, the inner part of the stem was dried and then crushed and ruffled in the yard to get rid of the unnecessary part of the trunk. They did this with the help of special devices - grinders and rattles. After that, flax was combed with a comb with rare and long teeth. Gradually, flax tow was obtained - a fiber for spinning threads. The tow was spun by hand using a spinning wheel.

In Russia, the main clothing for women was a sundress and a shirt with embroidery. From above they put on a shower warmer. Often shirts were sewn with very long sleeves and worn pulled up into a small fold. If the sleeves were lowered, then it was impossible to do any work. Hence the expression - to do carelessly. Women's clothing

Poneva Paneva (poneva, poneva, pony, ponyka) is a women's woolen skirt worn by peasant women. Poneva was made, as a rule, from several panels of homespun, often checkered fabric, mostly blue, black or red. In some areas, bells were sewn on the ponyova, according to the peasants, their strumming protected them from evil spirits.

Sundresses could be of different colors: red, blue, brown ... At that time, only natural dyes were used for fabric. For example: Yellow was given - birch, hazel. Green is nettle. Red - St. John's wort. Buttons played a special role in decorating sundresses; they sometimes reached the size of a chicken egg. Sundress

In the old days, embroidery not only adorned clothes, but also served as a talisman. It was believed that it removes all trouble and brings health, good luck and wealth. It was believed that the ornament, along with the red color, has a protective effect, and therefore it was placed in those places where the clothes ended. At the same time, surrounding the hand with symbols, the person wanted to increase its strength and dexterity.

Women's headdress The headdress has long been considered an integral part of the Russian national costume. Some sources say that the tradition of covering one's head must have appeared in Russia since ancient times. Two-horned kika - a headdress. XII-XIII centuries Corollas (XI-XIII centuries)

12th century Gold, forging, enamel, pearls Diadem Jewelers made expensive jewelry: earrings, bracelets, pendants, rings, necklaces. They used a complex manufacturing technique - granulation, filigree, cloisonne enamel. At the end of the XI century. in Russia, the scheme of the Byzantine ceremonial headdress was borrowed. In the most magnificent princely ceremonial version, this headdress was crowned with a golden diadem. In addition to diadems, gold and silver ochelya-crowns were common, to which pendants-colts were attached on special threads-cassocks. The headdress was complemented by elegant beaded earrings and temporal rings decorated with filigree and granulation. Jewelers

SCAN - an openwork pattern made of thin gold or silver wire, soldered onto a metal surface. (12th century bead) Types of jewelry ENAMEL is a durable glassy coating worn on a metal object and fixed by firing. GRAIN - the pattern consisted of many tiny metal balls.

Rings Rings are one of the most common archaeological finds. They were worn by both men and women. The first rings were made of wire, but rings with a shield adorned with precious stones were already called rings. Rings, of course, were worn on the hands, but in the burials there are also those that are worn on the toes.

The prince wore a green or red caftan with a border along the bottom and gold sleeves, a blue cloak-korzno, trimmed with a gold border, on a red lining. On his head is a round hat with a fur band, on his feet are green morocco boots. Such cloaks were worn only by noble people. All men wore hats. it was an integral part of the male costume. Worn by the rich and the poor, but the rich hats were much better than those of ordinary men. Male princely costume

Commoners wore a more modest costume. In Russia, according to custom, only a wife could sew clothes for her husband. So they protected happiness and love in their home. The men's suit consisted of a shirt - a kosovorotka and narrow trousers - ports (from the word trousers, tailor). The shirt was belted with a long belt - a sash. The word "shirt" comes from the root "rub" "a piece, cut, piece of fabric", as well as from the word "hack", which once also had the meaning "to cut". Clothes of common people

At the bottom, the pants were tucked into boots made of colored leather or into onuchi (pieces of fabric that wrapped the legs), and bast shoes were put on top, tied to the leg with special ties - ruffles. Mandatory accessories of the ancient Russian costume were mittens and a bag - kalita, which was tied to the belt. Clothes of common people

Children under 7 years old, both boys and girls, wore the same clothes - long shirts with a belt, sewn from the clothes of their parents. It was believed that this would protect the child from misfortune. Girls only after 12 years were allowed to wear inexpensive jewelry - beads and earrings made from dried berries or fruit seeds and colored ribbons.

More than 500 years ago, it was said about the rules for wearing and storing clothes in Domostroy: “On holidays and in good weather, and people should wear smart clothes, walk carefully in the morning, and be protected from dirt, snow, and rain , do not pour with drink, do not stain with food and fat, do not sit on blood and wet. Returning from a holiday or from guests, take off an elegant dress, take it off, look at it, dry it, stretch it, wipe off the dirt, clean it and put it well where it is stored.

Currently, the fashion for traditional Russian clothes is experiencing a rebirth. There are many things that were familiar to modern man only from old books and fairy tales. Along with the peasant costumes popular in Russia, the traditional clothes of the ancient Slavs are often used, which served as the prototype for all Slavic costumes of a later time.

Despite the fact that women's and men's costumes of that era are quite clearly described in historical works, some fashion designers believe that it is enough to place a Slavic pattern on a shirt or dress for it to be considered national. In fact, these are just modern clothes in the Slavic style, which do not carry any historical authenticity.

A look into the ancient history of the Slavic costume

The clothes of the ancient Slavs did not resemble any of the traditional costumes that are now so popular. Due to the fact that most of the people lived in the wilderness, and trade caravans did not even go there, clothes were made from animal skins. After Ancient Rome began to conquer the original barbarian lands, the Slavs began to get acquainted with clothes made of fabric. However, it was available only for leaders and noble warriors, as it was quite expensive.

If among the Western Slavs things made of fabric ceased to be something outstanding, then the clothes of the Eastern Slavs were fur for a long time. With the spread of Roman culture and trade, the Slavs had the opportunity to join civilization. Instead of the skins of fur-bearing animals, they received cloth clothes and fabrics. After some time, the Slavs themselves learned to spin things from wool, flax or hemp.

In the winter Slavic style of clothing, furs played the main role for a long time, but gradually they began to be replaced by warm things made of natural wool. Judging by the archaeological excavations, linen and wool served as the main raw materials for the everyday clothes of ordinary people.

The traditional costume of a Slavic man consisted of the following main parts:

• Plain shirt;
• Trousers or trousers;
• Scrolls or caftan.

As a rule, these clothes were linen or woolen. The shirt was sewn in a tunic shape, with long sleeves. A belt was always relied on the shirt, with which the owner was tied up. Poor farmers wore simpler clothes, and the nobility decorated their shirts with embroidery. As a rule, it was Slavic symbolism, carrying a deep sacred meaning. In addition, such shirts had ribbons designed to tighten the sleeves at the wrists.

Pants were narrow cut and ankle length. In order for them not to fall off, a special twine called a girdle was used. A shirt and pants without outerwear were worn mainly in the warm season. If it got colder, then you had to put on a scroll or a caftan. Noble Slavs often wore a korzno lined with light fur over the caftan.

In winter they wore jackets and fur coats. As for the latter, despite the widespread belief that the fur coat is the clothes of the steppe nomads, this is a traditional Slavic invention.

If ordinary farmers had only one suit, then the nobility also had festive outfits that were richly decorated. Such a suit had a fine finish and rich embroidery.

Clothing of Slavic women and various decorations

Although the Slavs did not wear pants, the most common part of the wardrobe was a long shirt. Unlike men's everyday items, women's shirts were often decorated with the following elements:

• Various embroidery;
• Braid;
• Scenes from life or mythological birds and animals.

Although some sources claim that straight long dresses or sundresses, which were sewn by women on their own, were worn on the naked body, in fact, all clothes were worn exclusively on the undershirt. As warm outerwear, women usually wore ponyov, casings or fur coats. The more furs a woman wore, the higher she was considered in status.

As headdresses, women wore various headbands, headbands and rims. Often it was decorated with various plates, embroidery and traditional ornaments. The kokoshnik headdresses, traditional for the Russian costume, have not yet appeared in the Slavic environment. The first kokoshniks were found during excavations in Novgorod and date back to the 10-11th century.

As for women's jewelry, the Slavs wore specific temporal rings. In addition, the following decorations were often found:

• Beads of various colors;
• necklaces;
• Massive bracelets;
• Rings and rings.

Although films often show Slav women with massive and complex rings on their fingers, jewelry in Ancient Russia was poorly developed, so the rings were simple.

Children in Russia dressed the same as their parents. The main element of the children's costume was considered a long shirt. If the boys wore trousers, then the girls had sundresses. While adult casual clothes were in most cases devoid of decorations and embroidery, children's clothes had their own special decorations. Since the death rate of children from diseases was very high, each mother tried to embroider protective embroidery with ancient runes or signs with red threads.

Another feature of the children's attire was special bells, which were woven into the girls' hair, and sewn onto the boys' hats.

Children's shoes were also more colorful. Often there were various ornaments, notches and inserts of colored threads. Traditionally, girls' shoes were more elegant.

Features of Russian folk costume

Currently, the oldest Russian costumes that have been preserved in museums to this day date from the beginning of the 18th century. Some samples have been preserved in private collections, and some have been passed down as a memento to wealthy peasant families. During the formation of Soviet power in Russia, many wealthy peasants were repressed or expelled, so the clothes were not preserved.

Another source by which one can judge how the clothes of our ancestors looked like is literature. From pictures and descriptions from old books, you can see what Russian costume looked like in the 16th and 17th centuries. Later clothing samples can only be restored thanks to archaeologists who, with the help of modern technology, can determine not only the appearance of the fabric, but also its composition and even embroidery.

Judging by the findings of archaeologists, the Russian costume until the beginning of the 18th century was approximately the same. The same style of attire was traced both among ordinary peasants and noble boyars. Only a boyar could afford things made of expensive fabrics and a fur coat. In addition, he could be immediately distinguished by a high beaver hat, which only noble people could wear.

Strong damage to traditional Russian clothing was inflicted by Peter the Great, who forbade the boyars to dress in accordance with ancient customs. After that, the Russian costume remained only among the peasantry, merchants and bourgeoisie. True, after some time, Catherine the Second revived the “a la Russ” fashion, but this did not help much, since by that time the nobility had become accustomed to a variety of European-style costumes.

The last traditional Russian costumes were worn at the beginning of the 20th century in the villages, but only for weddings and major holidays.

The main features of the Russian costume

Traditional costumes, which were used in the Russian provinces until the end of the 19th - beginning of the 20th century, were multi-layered, especially women's models. Over their clothes, married women put on a ponyova. An already betrothed girl could also put on a ponyova. All Russian clothing had the following common features:

• Clothing was usually loose-fitting. This made it possible to divide it into just a few basic sizes. As a rule, it was a children's and adult size. To fit it for a particular person, a system of inserts and various ties was used;
• In any suit, there was always such an obligatory element as a belt. Its main function was to maintain clothing. In addition, Russian men put knives and axes into their belts. In some parts of Russia, belts were embroidered with protective ornaments and symbols;
• The key element of the Russian national costume was embroidery. By these patterns, one could recognize not only tribal affiliation, but also social status;
• Festive costumes are distinguished by their brightness and variety of various inserts, sequins and beaded decorations. Casual work clothes were usually grey;
• Hats were considered an integral part of men's and women's clothing. The most famous headdress of married women is the kokoshnik. This is a festive element of clothing, contrary to popular belief, it was not worn in everyday life. The weight of the kokoshnik in some cases could reach 5 kg.

Clothing in Russia was considered a great value, so it passed not only from adults to children, but also through several generations.

Features of the women's costume in the south of Russia and the middle lane

The main element of the Russian women's costume in the south of Russia was the same long linen or canvas shirt. From above, they put on a ponyova. It so happened that instead of a ponyeva, an andorak was put on, which was a wide skirt with a braid or elastic band. A zapon and an apron were put on top. Kika and magpie were used as a headdress. All women's clothing was richly decorated with embroidery. Ryazan costumes were the brightest, and Voronezh peasants embroidered their clothes with black thread patterns.

In central Russia, clothing consisted of a shirt, a sundress and an apron. The headdress was a kokoshnik and an ordinary scarf. In the northern regions, fur coats and fur coats to the toes were often found. Each province was famous for its craftswomen, skilled in any kind of needlework:

• The most beautiful kokoshniks were made in Siberia;
• The best lace was made in the Arkhangelsk province;
• In Tverskaya - the best sewing with gold.

Rich women from the merchant class ordered elements of their outfit in different parts of Russia.

Traditional men's clothing in Russia

Traditional men's clothing in Russia was not as diverse as women's. The main element of the costume was a long shirt. Unlike the old Slavic shirts, these had a slanting cutout on the left. It is for this reason that they were called blouses. However, straight cuts were often found in the south of the country.

Pants were narrow, although sometimes, in the peasant environment, there were still wide models. The pants were held at the waist due to a special ribbon called a gashnik. As for the material, the trousers were made of canvas or wool. Monochromatic colors or narrow stripes predominated. In the southern regions, the Cossacks wore more traditional bloomers, which could be blue or red.

Until now, a wide belt has remained popular, which was often decorated with embroidery. Purses, bags of tobacco and other little things could be tied to it. In central Russia and in the north of the country, men often wore vests. This element of clothing was especially popular among the merchants and wealthy peasants. Cloth headdresses were widely used. At a later time, soft cloth caps were everywhere replaced by caps.

Russian folk shirt and its features

Since the time when clothes began to be sewn from fabric on the territory of modern Russia, the main element of the costume was a long shirt. They were worn by everyone, from young to old, regardless of age and social status. The shirts were of the same cut, differing only in the quality of the fabric and the richness of the embroidery. By embroidery, one could immediately understand to which class a person belongs. Children's clothes were often altered from adult ones.

All Russian shirts had the following common features:

• The cut of the clothes was very simple, and the shirt itself was very spacious;
• A gusset was always inserted under the armpits;
• The sleeves were sewn very long, it happened that they covered the entire arm with fingers. Women's and children's clothing had especially long sleeves;
• The shirts were long, women's models often reached the floor. Male models could reach to the knees and never tucked into pants;
• Girls and women could often sew their shirt from two materials of different quality. The upper part, which was visible, was made of expensive fabric and richly decorated with embroideries, while the lower part was made of plain fabric;
• Most of the shirts were decorated with embroidery, and it had a protective meaning. These patterns were an echo of paganism, and were supposed to protect a person from evil spirits;
• There were work shirts, festive and ritual ones.

Festive and ritual items were often passed down from generation to generation.

After the bottom shirt, the most common element of women's clothing in central and northern Russia was a sundress. Until the 18th century, sarafans were worn by all sections of Russian society. After the reforms of Peter the Great, sundresses began to be worn only among peasants. Until the middle of the 20th century, sarafans remained the only elegant women's clothing for women in Russia.

Judging by the excavations of archaeologists, the first sundresses appeared around the 14th century. Most often, elegant and decorated sundresses were worn for the holidays along with kokoshniks, which were very heavy.

Modern fashion often refers to the traditional Russian style. Embroidered shirts and sundresses can be found on the street in everyday life. I am glad that domestic fashion designers have stopped blindly copying Western clothes, and are increasingly drawing inspiration from Russian traditions.