Long sleeve flashlight. Modeling of short sleeves: flare, frill, puffed sleeve

Flashlight - the style of the sleeve, sewn into the armhole with the formation of gathers and tapering at the bottom to fit the arm. Due to the originality of the pattern, it turns out to be lush and rounded. This piece of clothing got its name because of its resemblance to a street lamp. Less commonly, such a sleeve is called a buff.

Many people like the puff sleeve dress because of its lightness and romanticism. In this case, a buff can have both for a girl. A puff sleeve paired with an A-line dress creates a casual, youthful style. At the same time, it can be of various lengths and splendor, end with a cuff or an elastic band, be made of lace, organza and other light fabrics.

A-line dress: pattern

The construction of the A-silhouette pattern is based on changing the base drawing:

1. Build a basic drawing (base pattern).
2. Determine the desired length of the dress, mark it on the line of the middle of the drawing of the front and back (segment AB).
3. Change silhouette. To do this, increase the width along the bottom line by 4-6 cm. Draw a straight line from the lower corner of the armhole to the marked point (segment HK).
4. Adjust the bottom line by raising it along the side by 1.5-2 cm as shown in the figure (KM segment).
5. Remove darts at the waist.
6. Remove shoulder darts (if the chest is large, shorten it by 2-3 cm).
7. Shorten the shoulder seam by 0.5-1.5 cm from the side of the armhole for a better fit of the lantern sleeve.
8. Measure the side lines of the front and back, correct if there is a discrepancy in length.
9. Design the neck line according to your own wishes. If necessary, mark the position of the fastener.

Cut out the finished parts and cut them out on the fabric from which the dress with the lantern sleeve will be made. The part of the shelf is one-piece, with a fold in the middle. The back can be either solid or made up of two parts with a seam in the middle.

Flashlight sleeve extended to the bottom

As a basis for a flashlight, extended to the bottom, a single-seam sleeve pattern is used:

1. Build a base drawing.
2. Draw a vertical line of the middle, divide the sleeve into eight parts, as shown in Figure 1.
3. Cut out the resulting pattern and lay it out on paper, spreading the lower part along the cuts. The wider the gap between the parts of the pattern, the more magnificent the sleeve will turn out. For medium puff, the sleeve width should be doubled.
4. Set aside 6 cm from the middle line (less - for children's patterns), draw a smooth bottom line as shown in Figure 1.

Such a pattern of a lantern sleeve requires a slight shortening of the shoulder seam of the base of the dress (0.5 cm).

Gathered flare sleeve at top and bottom

The base for the flashlight, extended along the collar and bottom, is also a pattern of a single-seam sleeve:

1. Build a base drawing.
2. Draw a vertical line of the middle, divide the sleeve into eight parts, as shown in Figure 2.
3. Cut out the resulting pattern and lay it out on paper, spreading the cut parts parallel to each other at a distance of 6 cm for medium splendor. The gaps can be increased up to 8 cm for a larger volume of the finished sleeve, or, conversely, reduced to get a narrower version.
4. Set aside 6 cm at the middle mark down (less - for children's patterns), draw a smooth bottom line as shown in Figure 2.
5. Raise the collar of the sleeve by 2 cm (less - for children's patterns), smoothly draw a line, as shown in the figure.
6. Cut out the piece, cut it out of the fabric, adding allowances for the seams.

Depending on the volume of the sleeve, it is required to shorten the shoulder seam of the base of the dress from 0.5 to 1.5 cm.

The long puff sleeve is puffy at the top and at the wrist. Most often, this version of it is used in evening dresses and carnival costumes, however, you can also find it in everyday clothes.

Flashlight sleeve extended at the top

The pattern of the flashlight sleeve, extended from above, is made on the basis of the drawing of a single-seam sleeve:

1. Build a base drawing.
2. Draw a vertical line of the middle, divide the sleeve into eight parts, as shown in Figure 3.
3. Cut out the resulting pattern and lay it out on paper. Extend the upper part of the sleeve, which will form a flashlight, to the desired distance.
4. Raise the collar of the sleeve by 2-3 cm (less for children's patterns), smoothly draw a line, as shown in Figure 3. This is necessary for a beautiful fit when creating assemblies. The bottom part remains unchanged.
5. Cut out the piece, cut it out of the fabric, adding allowances for the seams.

Depending on the volume of the sleeve, it is necessary to shorten the shoulder seam of the dress by 0.5 to 1.5 cm.

The bottom of the sleeve-lantern can be decorated with lace, cuff, oblique trim.

Tailoring the base of the dress

A dress with puff sleeves, which has an A-line silhouette, is sewn very simply and quickly. The whole process consists of the following steps:

Before sewing the sleeves-lanterns, the finished base must be ironed, check the presence of marks on the sleeves and measure the size of the armhole.

Tailoring and sewing in a flashlight sleeve

When the base of the dress is ready, you can proceed to work with the sleeve. Its sewing and stitching into the armhole consist of the following steps:

Knowing how to sew lantern sleeves, you can experiment with their width, length, as well as with the choice of the base of the product. This piece of clothing can look completely different on an adult woman and on a little girl's home outfit.

A flashlight is very relevant today. If it has an A-silhouette, then in the summer it will go well with flat sandals, and in the cold season with over the knee boots.

Hardworking - a bright light burns through life, lazy - a dim candle

Sleeves for children's clothes - we do it ourselves. Part 2 Flashlight sleeve.

Good afternoon, dear mothers and grandmothers - all those who love to sew clothes for children with their own hands.

We take this standard pattern and find the middle in it - finding the middle is very simple - this perpendicular from the highest point of the eye of the sleeve. From the highest point of the eye we draw a line down.

Now, on both sides of this line at the same distance from it, draw the same parallel lines (Fig. 1)

We cut the pattern of the classic sleeve along the marked lines. We will get four pieces of the sleeve. We put them on a piece of paper an equal distance apart(Fig. 2). We choose an arbitrary distance - 3-6 cm - the greater the distance, the more magnificent the flashlight sleeve will be.

Now draw a contour future new pattern.

The lower edge of the flashlight sleeve pattern can simply be in the form of a straight line (lilac line AB in Fig. 3). Or a semicircular downward curved line. Or like mine (see fig. 5 - red line) curved down on the back of the sleeve and concave up on the front of the sleeve.

That's it - the pattern of the classic flashlight sleeve is ready.

note that assembly area when sewing the sleeve to the armhole, it is located only in the area where we expanded our pattern (Fig. 7).

There are many ways to sew a sleeve to the armhole of our dress or blouse..

Method 1.

First, we manually make folds on the sleeve part itself - we assemble the sleeve part even before sewing it to the armhole. When forming tucks and folds, you need to constantly apply the sleeve part to the armhole so as not to pinch too much - otherwise, when it is sewn from armpit to armpit, it may not be enough.

Method 2.

We sew by hand to the armhole the front and back "axillary" parts of the armhole. That is, we tack the sleeve to the armhole in those areas where it does not shrug(Fig. 7 - eye line, where there is no yellow dotted line). Sewn on, and the rest of the sleeves evenly trim relative to the shoulder section of the armhole- the sleeve is already sewn to the axillary parts of the armhole without assembly.

Sewn by hand - now you can sew on a typewriter.

And gather the lower part of the sleeve to the cuff, or draw the elastic into it, or sew the elastic along the edge of the sleeve with a zigzag stitch. That's actually all wisdom.

Pattern of a very puffy lantern sleeve.

Sometimes, according to the idea, it is very necessary that the flashlight sleeve be more magnificent. Then you should make adjustments to the pattern of the classic flashlight sleeve.

On the flashlight sleeve pattern, draw lines again - two on the front of the sleeve and two on its back (Fig. 9). And we cut these lines from below and almost to the very eye.

Then the cut pieces fan out at an equidistant distance from one another(Fig. 10).

We put our "fan" on a piece of paper and circle- as a result, we get a pattern of a puffy sleeve of a flashlight (Fig. 11).

It is sewn to the armhole of the product in the same way as a classic flashlight sleeve. With the only difference that below, to the cuff, it is gathered in larger folds than at the top, to the armhole.

In a special part of the cycle, I will tell, how to sew a lantern sleeve to an off-the-shoulder dress, that is, to a dress without an armhole or to a dress with straps.

In the next article, read how to make a puff sleeve yourself.

Good luck with your tailoring.

Olga Klishevskaya, especially for

Before you make a flashlight sleeve pattern from a regular sleeve, you need to decide on the length of the sleeve. It can be any. Short, to the elbow, three quarters or long. When choosing the length of the sleeve, add an allowance of 2 to 10 cm to it for a beautiful slouching. The size of the allowance depends on the chosen model of the "flashlight" sleeve, and on the properties of the fabric. The largest overflow is typical for a long sleeve made of light fabric.

In order to model a flashlight sleeve, cut the straight sleeve pattern along the line of the middle of the sleeve and spread it 5-10 cm. Make allowances for the seams.

Before sewing the sleeve into the okat, you need to make an assembly. This can be done by machine or by hand. It is necessary to assemble along the okat line only in the place where the sleeve pattern was expanded. When making the assembly along the bottom of the sleeve, you should also follow this rule. In a long sleeve, you can assemble along the lower cut along the entire length of the cut.

If desired, you can make not an assembly, but an opposite fold on the sleeve at the place of expansion of the "flashlight" sleeve pattern. Thus, we get a sleeve with a fold.

And yet, the type of sleeve "flashlight" depends on the method of processing the bottom of the sleeve. It can be a strict cuff or an oblique trim. Or maybe a romantic drawstring with a frill.

In order to get a sleeve expanded at the top, cut the straight sleeve pattern along the line of the middle of the sleeve and, without disconnecting at the bottom point, move it apart at the top by 4-6 cm.

The processing scheme is the same. We make an assembly in the place of expansion and sew the sleeve into the okat. Another type of "flashlight" sleeve can be found under the name "puff" sleeve.

The sleeve, expanded at the bottom, is the same one of the types of sleeves "flashlight". The length can vary from short to long. This sleeve is characterized by a large expansion at the bottom. The top of the sleeve remains the same as the classic set-in sleeve.

Cut the pattern along the line of the middle of the sleeve and, without disconnecting at the top point, move it apart at the bottom by 10-14 cm.

For even more flaring of the sleeve, the pattern can be cut in some places, at an equal distance between them and push each cut an equal number of centimeters.

If you do not assemble in such a sleeve along the lower cut, then you get a "bell" sleeve.

The sleeve, gathered at the shoulder cut, is the same "puff" sleeve, but perhaps does not have too much gathering and shoulder line.

Set aside 2-2.5 cm from point A (middle of the sleeve) and connect the resulting point with a smooth line with points M2 and M3.

While I was running around the Internet in search of the right pictures, I came across many different names for the "flashlight" sleeve. This is a sleeve "bubble", a sleeve "puff", a sleeve with an assembly, a bell sleeve. All these sleeves can be modeled independently, relying on your imagination. And if there is any doubt, then you can always make a probe out of cheap fabric.

And one more piece of advice. If you need to get a rigid shape of the sleeve, you can sew the sleeve in two layers. The top is made from the main fabric, and the bottom is made from a fabric that holds its shape well. It can be a rigid mesh or a simple lining fabric, which is also quite elastic. You can, of course, simply duplicate the fabric with non-woven fabric, but this is not always appropriate. Non-woven glue can peep through a thin fabric, and the fabric will become too "oak", lose its lightness, possibly shine

A blouse with a flashlight sleeve is that versatile and win-win option that makes children and adults dressed up. This style of blouse is well suited for wearing with trousers, a skirt and a sundress and is one of the most successful inventions of fashion designers. A well-chosen model will hide the flaws of the figure and hide its flaws.

The principle of constructing a pattern

The pattern of a blouse with a flashlight sleeve is built on the basis of a classic base pattern of a suitable size. The spherical shape of the model is obtained by expanding and then gathering the head and bottom of the sleeve to the original size of the base pattern. In practice, this task is carried out in several ways.

Option 1: Cut the warp pattern into 2 identical wedges.

This is the easiest way to build a pattern for a fashionable model. The pattern-base of the sleeve must be cut in the center and push the resulting halves a certain distance.

More clearly, the process is shown in the figure.

In the process of sewing a blouse, the sleeve around the place where the pattern was moved apart must be gathered up, due to which the model will take on the shape of a flashlight ball.

Option 2: Dividing the main pattern into 4 wedges.

A beautiful and rather interesting blouse model is obtained by cutting the base pattern into four wedges. The diagram shows that the base template in this method is divided by three lines along which the cut is made. The top edge of the part remains intact.

The assembly of folds is carried out along the bottom of the product.

A cuff can complement the style. It is quite simple to cut it out - a strip of fabric (16 cm wide and equal to the arm circumference in the upper part + 5 cm long) is folded in half and stitched to the gathered bottom of the sleeve.

Option 3: Cutting the warp into 6 or more parts to form gathers at the top and bottom of the sleeve.

The base pattern can be cut into six or more pieces. The resulting parts are evenly pushed apart by the same distance, so that the desired width of the part is ultimately obtained.

When making a pattern, in order for the cut part to fit well into the bodice, smooth allowances of 1–2 cm are made along the height of the template (in the upper and lower parts). The process of constructing the pattern will become more understandable if you carefully consider the drawing.

While basting the cut-out part to the bodice, the gathering is carried out both along the rim and along the bottom of the sleeve. "Flashlight" in this case will be especially magnificent.

As in the previous versions, the bottom of the product can be decorated with a cuff or gathered with an elastic band. If the edge is hemmed or processed with a zigzag, then you get a variant of a blouse with wings.

Option 4: Extension of the base template at the top of the eyelet.

The presented version is considered a classic. The assemblies in it are located at the top of the template's circle. To give more splendor along the upper and lower borders of the pattern, allowances are made with a height of 2-3 cm.

The figure shows a pattern of a short sleeve, but by extending it to the required height, you can make a template three-quarters long or the entire length of the arm to the wrist.

Lace blouses

An important role in tailoring a blouse is played by the fabric. Clothing with a lantern sleeve is usually made from materials that are light and drape well into folds - silk, crepe de chine, crepe satin and similar in quality. Sewing does not belong to those, but a sewing blouse looks very elegant and solemn. Due to the stiffness of the material, gathers on the collar perfectly keep their shape, emphasizing the femininity of the shoulder lines.

The model shown in the photo is businesslike and at the same time very elegant.

The bodice and back of the blouse have a yoke, front closure, buttons. The collar is rectangular. The waist is accentuated with a tie belt. The sleeve is long, on the cuff, one-sutural. On the border of the seams of the bodice and the coquette, decorative pockets are sewn on. The chest tuck has been moved to the waist tuck.

The pattern of a blouse with a lantern sleeve from sewing is made according to the principle of constructing the pattern of Option No. 4. The expansion, and subsequently the collection of the sleeve, is carried out only along the upper rim.

Secrets of harmony and beauty

In order to catch admiring and envious glances on yourself, you need to have in your wardrobe not so much trendy attire as clothes that will emphasize the beauty of the lines of your particular figure. Therefore, before you start sewing, critically evaluate the following secrets of the model in relation to the features of your silhouette:

A well-chosen style corrects the figure, bringing it closer to the ideal - "hourglass".

Attention, only TODAY!

Sleeve "Flashlight" has gained incredible popularity in recent seasons, even in hand knitwear. Designers turn to this sleeve model in their summer collections. "Flashlight" - a short voluminous sleeve with gathers along the collar and bottom of the sleeve. Sometimes assemblies are replaced by folds. But the modeling of the pattern is similar.

For modeling, we need the base of the set-in sleeve.

We mark the desired length of the sleeve on the pattern. It should be borne in mind that after assembly, its length will decrease. Cut off the bottom. Draw a vertical line along the center line and cut the pattern along this line:

Now we push both parts of the sleeve to the sides to the desired width. The width and shape of the "flashlight" can be absolutely any, slightly gathered at the bottom and top, as on a Red Valentino dress, or with abundant gathers and pleats along the collar and bottom of the sleeve, you can not assemble from below, but leave the sleeve freely falling. But along the okat, the sleeve must be shirred in any case in order to “fit” it into the armhole.

Now we raise the eyeline at its highest point by 2 cm and draw a new smooth eyeline:

If you are going to hem the flashlight down the sleeve, then you need to build a cuff. Its width can be anything, from 1-2 cm, equal to several rows of garter stitch, to a wide cuff, knitted with any other pattern, elastic or some other dense finishing pattern.