Correct filing of nails. Step-by-step instructions: how to build gel nails on forms? Help for beginners

Every day the stylist meets with various types nail bed, while he must give the same and symmetrical shape of the artificial nail on all ten fingers. This is almost impossible to do correctly without some guidelines, against which the lines of the sawdust of the nails will be made and the correctness of the form will be checked. A novice master needs to have a clear diagram that describes in stages the implementation of an ideal artificial turf. To control the quality of an artificial nail, 12 main guidelines are distinguished.

LINE 1 - it is mentally drawn along the middle of the phalanges of the finger in the longitudinal direction. The line is a guide for the rest of the lines.

LINE 2 - perpendicular to line 1 (limits the length free edge nail). The perpendicularity of line 2 is checked by pressing the fingertip with inside free edge of the nail.

LINES 3 and 4 - run perpendicular to line 2. Lines 3 and 4 start from the place where the free edge of the nail comes out of the sinuses, or stress zone (hereinafter referred to as the stress zone), ends at the point of intersection with line 2. The free edge of the nail is given a given shape (the parallelism of lines 3 and 4 relative to line 1 is checked by pressing the fingertip from the inside of the free edge of the nail).

LINE 5 - runs parallel to the cuticle line. The beginning and end of the line is the right and left parts of the stress zone. The sawdust area is the upper third of the nail bed. Artificial coverage at the cuticle line and the lateral part of the stress zone is nullified. The upper border of the material should be 2 mm from the cuticle line and 1 mm from the lateral parts of the stress zone. The sawdust area is the upper third of the nail bed.

LINES 6 and 7 - run parallel to line 1, through the quarters of line 2 (to the right and left of line 1). After lines 6 and 7 are aligned, they are smoothly reduced to zero to lines 3 and 4. On these lines, the material thickness is left slightly less than 1 mm (stiffening ribs are formed).

POINT 8 is the highest point on the surface. There should be a maximum thickness of the material (1-2 mm) depending on the bulge of the nail plate in the longitudinal direction and the length of the free edge of the nail.

If the length of the free edge of the nail does not exceed half the length of the nail bed in the longitudinal direction, then point 8 is on line 1 in the center of the nail plate. If the length of the free edge of the nail is equal to the length of the nail bed in the longitudinal direction, then point 8 is in the center of the lower third of the nail bed.

If the length of the free edge of the nail exceeds the length of the nail bed in the longitudinal direction, then point 8 becomes zone 8, which is on line 1 and covers the lower third of the nail bed and the upper third of the free edge of the nail. The sawdust area between lines 6 and 7 is nullified from point/zone 8 to line 5.

LINE/ZONE 9 - located between lines 6 and 7 parallel to line 1.

What master would not want to create perfect nails, from which clients would be delighted? Of course, all this comes with experience: beautiful nails require not only theoretical knowledge, but also refined practice. Starting to model nails, some masters do not even suspect what “pitfalls” can be encountered in the process of work. But folk wisdom says: learn from mistakes. And in order to learn not from our own mistakes, in this article we will consider the most common mistakes that masters make in their work. Many specialists do not pay due attention to such errors, but they can affect the finished result in the worst way.

Onychogriffose type of nail plate. All of them have their own characteristics, so each needs an individual approach. So, it is not possible to model the desired shape for any type of nail artificial nails and especially the length.

Let's take the most common and, at the same time, the most complex type of nail plate - trapezoidal. Long nails should not be extended to this type, as a short nail plate will not withstand the length. Nails can break and even injure natural nail. Also on this type, we do not recommend building up such forms as modern almond, almond, pipe, stiletto, age. All these forms of artificial nails require the maximum length of the free edge, and trapezoidal nails have a too short natural nail plate. Most creative forms involve setting templates up for proper nail architecture. On trapezoidal nails, this should not be done in any case.
Remember that the correctly selected form of artificial nails to the natural nail plate provides not only a beautiful appearance, but also prolongs the time during which the nails will be worn perfectly.

Second mistake
Preparation of the nail plate for modeling.
It seems that it could be easier? It is at this stage that masters often make fatal mistakes. Improper preparation leads not only to exfoliation, but also to the wrong architecture of the future artificial nail. An incompletely sawn free edge will not make it possible to correctly substitute the template. This will lead not only to a violation of the architecture and appearance artificial nail, but also to cracks, peeling and breaking.

The second point to consider is a manicure before modeling. Many masters have a question: is it worth doing or not? There is an answer. By guidelines it is forbidden to perform deep edged manicure, and instead do a preparatory hardware manicure. It is recommended to perform it with diamond or ceramic nozzles. Do not use for work hardware manicure carbide, as they polish nail plate, which leads to detachment artificial material.

Third mistake
Preparing and staging a template
It should be remembered that the template is the foundation of the future nail and its appearance and strength will completely depend on its correct setting. A template is just an approximate pattern for a nail. Each nail has its own shape and width. In order for the template to be correctly installed, it should be tinted for each nail individually. A properly prepared and installed template deprives you of unnecessary and unnecessary tightening of the nails.

A pattern not pointing up enough will result in subtle stress or a thick nail end. If, on the contrary, the template is too directed upwards, this will make the butt very thin.
And remember the most important thing: for each type of nail plate, templates are installed according to their own rules.

Fourth mistake
Lengthening of the nail bed
Here it is necessary to remember the following: a jacket is not a free edge, a jacket is not a design. French is an extension! And lengthening is, in turn, 70% of the finished nail.
When lengthening the nail bed, remember that it should be
- centered;
- symmetrical;
- oval-almond-shaped, with slightly rounded sides.

Main elongation errors:
- round extension;
- acute elongation;
- very high mustache;
- shift of the center;
mustache asymmetry.

An important factor correct modeling elongation is the knowledge of its architecture and the ratio of the length of the free edge to the length of the elongation. The lengthening should be visually the same on all 10 nails. The word “visual” is important here! But the free edge must be exactly the same in length.

When modeling a French butt to butt, pay attention to the height of the camouflage material. Too much material will result in ready-made to a curved smile line. Not enough thickness - to a thin stress zone.

Fifth mistake
Does not polymerize white gel
We would like to draw your attention to the fact that not all gels polymerize perfectly. The more pigmented they are, the more likely they are not to dry out. It is important to understand here that the white gel requires exposure to ultraviolet rays from both above and below for 100% polymerization. Therefore, we do not recommend polymerizing the white gel in several layers. Ideally, the gel dries in one layer laid out for readiness. That is not a thick layer. We recommend modeling the free edge as shown in the photo.

Sixth mistake
Removing the Template
On the one hand, there is nothing easier than removing the template. And here for many masters it becomes a real surprise that wrong withdrawal pattern can lead to bad consequences. The most common of them:
- violation of the inner arch
- creases on the sides
- raised free edge
- delamination of substrate and white gel

Seventh mistake
Compression of artificial nails
Why should you purse your nails at all? For a beautiful arch? Or for a narrow free edge? In fact, in order to achieve a perfect arch and a beautiful free edge, it is enough to correctly install the template. The nails are pressed exclusively in the stress zone so that the sides of the nail plate are parallel. Any compression requires fixation so that the material does not expand during the polymerization process, both in acrylic and gel technologies.

Eighth mistake
sawdust
This is one of the hardest steps in modeling. Most masters believe that nails are modeled with a file and leave the most incredible hopes for this step. IN real life a file can only spoil the appearance and quality of nails. Exists the whole scheme filing, which is based on following a sequence of steps, each of which leads to a specific result.

Ninth mistake
Coating with finishing gel
Top coats exist with sticky layer, and without. Coatings with a sticky layer are recommended to be applied on gel nails for their protection, as well as in order to secure artistic painting on nails. At the same time, it is not entirely suitable for acrylic technology. acrylic nails it is better to cover with a finish without a sticky layer. Another tip: do not apply a thick layer of finish gel, otherwise it may boil, or it will thicken the end of the free edge, which is far from in the best way will affect the appearance of the finished nail.

Tenth mistake
Warranty issue
Probably, each of the masters is familiar with this concept. When purchasing goods in a store, we often require warranty card which gives us confidence. It is the same with nail modeling masters. Under the guarantee is not only the peace of mind of the client, but also the confidence that this product is of high quality. Therefore, as in a store, give a guarantee to customers for their work! For the master, this is a kind of motivation to do their work with high quality and conscience. The guarantee also makes it possible to book a client in advance for a future correction, since after three weeks the guarantee for your work is no longer covered and in case of breakage, nail repair will have to be paid additionally.
In order for the above errors to occur as rarely as possible (or better never) in your work, you need to constantly improve your skills and abilities. Remember that it is never too late to learn and there is never too much knowledge!

The correct filing of nails is the basis of not only a beautiful manicure, but also healthy nails. The wrong sawdust can not only complicate the manicure process and worsen its result, but also significantly damage the nails and weaken them. The photos and videos posted in this material will tell you how to properly cut nails in a square, oval or other shape.

General rules for filing nails

There are several simple rules, which will help not only create a beautiful manicure relatively quickly, but also maintain the health of nails. They cover not only sawdust technique, but also the selection of materials and tools for this. In order to properly file your nails, you need to know the following:

• Sawdust can be carried out only on dry nails;
• Carefully select the file according to the degree of abrasiveness and material, as well as ease of use;
• Do not use iron files, they contribute to the delamination of the nail, even with the correct filing technique. Most acceptable option- glass files;
• It is necessary to cut nails strictly in one direction each side. You can not alternate the direction of sawdust, as this contributes to delamination and significantly weakens the nail.

In order to learn how to properly file your nails evenly, you can watch the video below. It shows all the steps this process, as well as its nuances.

Square and trapezoid

The square shape of nails is currently the most fashionable and popular. She is quite glamorous, it is easy to design on her and many girls choose her. However, it is the most difficult to create from natural nails, in addition, it is fragile and can break and crack during operation, even if the nails are strong enough. So about how to file nails square shape will be explained correctly in the instructions below.

The shape of a trapezoid is created in the same way, but when filing the sides, it is necessary to ensure that they go to the gathering to the desired degree. Rounding and making the trapezoid soft is not recommended.

Stylet

The stiletto shape is a very sharp nail. Such plates are also quite fragile, but can last quite a long time if you are careful when handling them. Often, this form is also coated with a gel for greater reliability and strength of the nail. But if you know how to file nails of this shape correctly, then this can also contribute to greater stability of the manicure.

It is convenient to form this type of free edge from triangular shape. However, a similar statement applies to almost any other form of nails. Square nails have clearer and smoother sides, and therefore any shape can be cut out of them as evenly and clearly as possible. In this case, you do not have to worry about how to properly file your fingernails.

Oval and almond

If you are thinking about how to file short nails beautifully, then the oval and almonds will be the ideal shape for you. These forms differ from each other only in one. The almond has a slightly more pointed tip, as if tending to the stylet. Whereas the oval has only a smooth rounding, which can accurately repeat the shape of the smile line or the base of the nail. In addition, almonds turn out flawless on slightly longer nails.

The oval is sawn very simply. Most often this is natural form nail, which only needs to be slightly corrected. The filing starts from the center, it is necessary to move in soft rounded movements towards the ends of the smile line. The main difficulty in this case- strict observance of symmetry.

Almonds are sawn as something between a stylet and an oval. Such sharp and straight lines as with the stylet should be avoided, however, the sides should also converge, but to a lesser extent. When the desired angle between the sides is reached, start filing from the center point of the saw cut of the free edge of the nail in two directions. The movements should be pendulum-like, their amplitude should increase with each new touch of the file.

These forms are the least fragile compared to the rest. Thus, you will not have to worry about the safety of such a manicure if your nails are in normal condition. In addition, the shorter they are, the stronger the manicure, since the load is less. To learn how to properly sharpen nails of this shape, you can watch the video below.

Each person has their own nail shape. And the longer the length of the nail plates, the easier it is to make what you want out of what is given by nature. There are several basic shapes under which natural nails are cut: square, "almond", oval, "pipe", "stiletto". Each is good in its own way, but should be appropriate.

Shape of natural nails

Before filing your nails to any shape, you need to figure out if it suits you. Since filing can both decorate and disfigure hands. The shape of natural nails, those given by nature, can be of several types:

• trapezoidal;
• square;
• rectangular;
• round.

Sometimes nails on different fingers grow back various shapes, but it's more idiosyncrasy than pathology.

How to choose the right shape

Each natural form nails require their sawdust. The one that suits her perfectly. So, for example, trapezoidal nails look perfect if they are filed under an oval. This visually makes them more elegant, neater and more beautiful. Square nails the shape of nails "square" is ideal, but only with rounded corners. Sharp ones will give a too clumsy look to the hands. Preferred length: medium, that is, no more than 1/4 of the size of the nail bed. Round form nails can be filed to a soft and symmetrical oval, which will give the hands neatness, softness and beauty. In this case, the length should also not be too large. Rectangular natural nails are versatile. That is, they can be sawn to any shape, any length.

Finger shape

When choosing sawdust for nails, it is worth considering the shape of the fingers. So, for example, both the shape of nails "almond" and round are suitable for long and thin fingers. This visually makes them even more elegant and sophisticated. But the square shape of the nails is categorically contraindicated for short and plump fingers. She visually shortens them even more, makes noticeable fullness. Given the shape of the fingers, you need to determine the length of the nails. Long nails are not very suitable for short fingers, but neat short, but correctly sawn ones, will look perfect.

Manicure and pedicure colors

No matter what the shape of the toenails, a colored decorative pedicure can visually change it. For example, too wide nail plates will visually become smaller if you apply a varnish of a dark dense color. This also applies to manicure. Too wide nails become visually sleeker and narrower, if used dark varnishes. At the same time, they are applied not to the entire width, but only to the middle, without touching the edges from the side of the side rollers. In a pedicure, you should follow the same rule. In this case, regardless of the shape, the nails will become visually narrower and neater.

short nails

The ideal shape of short nails, which are only 1-2 mm long, is a square with rounded corners. At the same time, varnishes light shades make nails look longer. This must be taken into account when choosing colors for a manicure. The soft square is ideal for short nails also because it gives the nails the opportunity to grow evenly, even if before that the nails grew poorly and were of different lengths.

Almond

For shaping you need soft nail file for natural nails. It is better to choose glass or emery options, as they are more difficult to harm. But it is better to refuse metal nail files, they violate the structure of the nails too much. More precisely, the edges are stratified, which leads to further stratification of the nail, premature breaks, cracks. The almond nail shape is considered one of the most difficult to file, because you need to clearly observe symmetry, cut off the corners, while adhering to the extreme upper point of the free edge so as not to cut it off. This very point gives the nails the desired shape: like an almond. To perform such a sawing, you must first cut out the "square", and then "almond" out of it. The corners are cut evenly, the nail file is held at a slight angle, the movements are strictly in one direction: away from you. The number of movements on each side must be the same in order to maintain symmetry. For the first time when filing, you can put a pencil point at the upper midpoint of the free edge so as not to cut it off, but rather use it as a guide. After sawing under the almonds, the nails can be passed with a soft buff to align the edges.

Square

The easiest form to perform, since it does not require special skills, does not cause difficulties when cutting the edge. The nail file is placed strictly vertically from one side, the nail is filed strictly away from itself. Then the tool is applied from the other side, the actions are repeated, up to the number of movements. The sides should be perfectly flat and parallel. After that, the nail file is placed from the end. The movements are strictly horizontal in one direction.

To make it more convenient to cut your own nails, you can turn your fingers with the ends of your nails towards you. Corners, if necessary, are sawn down to be softer and neater. So that the nails do not scratch and do not cause inconvenience, you can treat them with a soft buff.

Oval

To get the shape of an oval, you must first give them an almond shape. How to do this is described above. After the almond shape is ready, you just need to cut off the upper middle point, rounding it. It turns out a full, symmetrical and regular oval. This shape, by the way, is suitable for nails that are not too long. And if you perform a decorative manicure in light colors with a vertical pattern-painting, it will make the nails visually narrower and more refined.

round nails

This is the most simple form from all existing ones. It is necessary to carefully cut the corners on the nails, making them round and soft. The ends after that usually do not have to be cut down. It is noteworthy that round nails are only suitable for small lengths, since even a small one (3 mm) requires a more elongated and thoughtful shape. Round nails are ideal for children, as they cannot scratch or cause even the slightest harm to themselves.

"Pipe"

It's relative new form, which is suitable exclusively for extended nails. Why? The pipe nail shape cannot exist without a steep arch. That is, if you turn the nails towards you, with the ends towards the eyes, a steep, symmetrical arc should be visible. Natural plates during regrowth cannot boast of such. But you can build up such a shape with both gel and acrylic. Sawdust is a cross between a soft square and almonds, but the most basic is the substitution of a form for building up. It is usually lifted up a little so that the tip of the free edge is flush with the apex. What it is? The highest point of the extended nail. That is, the nail is straight from above, neatly rounded to the side ridges and cuticle. And so that such nails do not break during wearing, the very C-arch that maintains symmetry is required. For its formation during extension, the form is strongly clamped with special crabs-clamps. You can check the symmetry with round tube. It is substituted under the form, then the form is clamped. After building up, before washing down the nails, the tube is repeatedly substituted to check the arch. The free edge is first sawn under the square. After that, the corners are strongly cut down, the sharp almond-shaped point on the end is leveled. The shape of the nails "pipe" is ready.

"Stylet"

Perhaps the most popular form of nails in 2013-2014 among masters. The jacket on it turns out to be very unusual if you add Chinese painting. "Stiletto" got its name for its similarity with ladies' weapons in Spain (thin knife conical shape). This form is suitable only long nails, since it simply does not look at a short length, it seems too strange and unfinished. The classic "stiletto" can only be obtained with extensions. Main feature: equal and perfectly even sides of the free edge, which converge at the end into one point, located strictly in the middle. The stiletto is pretty acute form. Some believe that it is not intended for daily wear, but is suitable exclusively for nail art exhibitions. But there are those who do an excellent job with household chores, having such long and sharp nails. If a "stiletto" jacket is performed, then it must be decorated with painting or decorative elements, otherwise it is simply lost, becomes unfinished.

Sawing when building up

During the build-up, about 40% of the work falls on cutting the material and shaping the nails as well. Regardless of what material is used to build up, this procedure cannot be avoided. How are the nails shaped in this case? Firstly, they first prepare the nails for extension. Secondly, a special cardboard form is substituted, which is then removed. Thirdly, a gel or acrylic substrate is laid out. This is where shaping the nails begins. The substrate is stretched to a certain selected length. The future shape of the nails, on which the manicure will then be performed, is already important here. If it's a square, then the backing stretches along that shape. If "stiletto", oval or "almond", then a base is created for "almond". Fourth, the substrate creates future nail, in compliance with all the rules and canons of extension: the apex is in its place, the indent from the cuticle is 0.5-1 mm, near the side rollers there is a minimum amount of carefully laid out material. Fifthly, the cardboard form is removed and sawing into the form begins. Files are used special for artificial material. All forms are filed according to the rules described above in the article. All excess is removed with a nail file, the surface of the nail plates is carefully polished with a special buff for extended nails. Only after that, perfect artificial nails are obtained - both in length and in shape. The last step in extensions is polishing the nails with oil or applying a special protective coating. The most difficult thing in the whole procedure is sawing, because if you move the tool carelessly, there is a risk of causing irreparable damage to the future shape. All this concerns how to build nails on the forms.

sawdust on natural nails

Before you do nice shape nails, you need to figure out how well it suits you. For example, the "stiletto" is insanely beautiful and original, but it will still be difficult to work with him at home, and even more dangerous when communicating with a small child. There is an easy way to find the perfect shape for your nails. You need to look at the lunula. This is a small strip on the nails near the cuticle. It differs in color from the entire nail plate. How to make beautiful nail shape? File them in the shape of a lunula. It will be the most ideal, the most correct and the most suitable shape for your nails. After you have made your choice, proceed to sawdust. How to perform it for a square, oval, "almond" is described above.

How to grow nails of the desired shape

Many people dream of beautiful manicure, but the length of the nails allows only filing them in a circle and covering them with light varnish. How to grow a free edge desired shape? First, take care of your hands and nails. The cuticle should be removed in a timely manner, and the free edge should be filed. Secondly, it is worth abandoning nail scissors. If you want to remove the length or unevenness, then you need to use a nail file. It is very easy to damage the structure of the nail and disrupt growth with scissors. Thirdly, you need to learn how to properly file your nails.

sawdust rules

The nail file should always move in the same direction. If you make movements back and forth with it, then there is a risk of greatly exfoliating the edge of the nail, which means contributing to the violation of its integrity.

The nail file is always placed at a slight angle to the end, so that the sawing is carried out as if from under the nail. This allows you to make the most correct and symmetrical shape. And most importantly - do not spoil the condition of the nails. If you cut only the butt, then it quickly becomes unusable: breaks, delamination, cracks begin.

How to protect your nails from injury

In order for the manicure to last longer, and the shape to remain flawless even with minor blows, you need to remember a few tips. First of all, choose the right length of nails. The free edge cannot be longer than nail bed. Otherwise, due to the heavy load, the nails will be weakened and vulnerable to even the slightest blow. Exception: stiletto nails. If all the rules for building this form are followed, then it will last a long time.

Much depends on the form itself. So, for example, a classic sharp square is vulnerable to impacts, since the corners break off quickly. And even protective equipment for a manicure is not always helpful. But a square with rounded corners practically does not break off. oval or almond nails- the most impact resistant. In rare exceptional cases, the form still bursts or cracks. For example, when strong blow end of the nail.

Shaping Conclusion

The shape of the nails should be not only beautiful, but also comfortable. In daily affairs, it should not cause discomfort. In addition, the shape and length of the fingers are not the last criteria in choosing the shape of the nails. Everything together should look natural and organic. When cutting, it is necessary to observe simple rules so that the shape of the nails is perfect and beautiful, and the nails remain strong and healthy. The use of metal nail files is strictly prohibited, as they harm the nails.

Top 5 the best craftsmen of the world in the nail industry according to the Championship Nailpro Nail Competitions 2013 Long Beach, California, Las Vegas, Nevada, creator effective methodology in preparation of participants for championships and competitions in nail aesthetics, judge of international and national championships, author and developer of artificial nail modeling in the form of PIPE (2005), chief technologist of cosmetics TM NL n.o.b.e.l, premium distributor of TM Trinity Beauty, founder of the Victoria Klopotova Nail Aesthetics Studio. Director and judge of the Eastern European Championship NAILPRO. Kyiv, Ukraine.

What is nail modeling? Not building, not lengthening, not growing, namely modeling. Asking this question to the masters who came for advanced training, in response I hear silence ...

In this article I want to propose to deal with the concept of "nail modeling". I will not talk about the anatomical structure of the nail now. I will not talk about nail pathologies, whether we can work with them and in what cases. Also, I will not talk about how to prepare a natural nail before the modeling procedure and why it is necessary to work with just such nail files. Today we have advanced training and you, as a working master, are required to know the basics of the profession. But, as practice shows (and I graduated more than 5,000 masters from the advanced training course), unfortunately, on the first day of training, the master can not always give correct answers to questions. So, back to the question of what is nail modeling and how to properly create an artificial nail.

Statement of forms

The very first, important and painful procedure for many masters is the setting of forms. Having been teaching masters for eight years now, I have developed unique schemes in order for students to perceive information more clearly and, thus, absorb it better. In order to simulate an artificial nail of one form or another, it is necessary to correctly substitute the template. At this stage, you need to decide together with the client: what shape of nails and what length you will do. And this choice must be final. Consider on the diagrams the modeling in the form of nails "square". Diagram 1 shows 3 types of nails. In the first case, consider the nail plate, slightly curved in a transverse arch and with hyponychium (part of the keratinized skin that forms under the free edge of the nail in the process of its growth) of a rounded shape. For this type of nail form, it is necessary to cut only in depth in accordance with the rounded shape of the hyponychium (Fig. 1). The second type of nail has a curved transverse arch (front view, an arc in the form of 40%–50% of the full circle), large lateral ridges, and hyponychium in the form of a straight line. In this case, the form should be cut in width (Fig. 2). The third type is competitive nails. Usually it is more difficult to choose and cut shapes for such nails correctly. They are characterized by a curved transverse arch (front view, an arc in the form of 50% of the full circle) and an overgrown hyponychium in the form of oval shape. In this case, the forms must be cut both in width and in depth (Fig. 3).

Architecture

Nail modeling is a correction of the appearance of a natural plate with a polymer and the achievement perfect shape artificial nail. With proper modeling, the nails become strong, thin and, most importantly, decorate the hands. When modeling, there must be a style - correct selection nail shapes, lengths and smile lines, if we talk about french manicure, to these hands. But more about that another time. The diagram shows three main angles that the wizard focuses on when modeling.

Using the example of Figure 1 (top view), consider the main criteria for a modeled nail in the shape of a square. The width of the nail in the stress zone and the free edge should correspond to the width of the proximal (posterior) ridge. The sides are parallel to each other and parallel midline finger, while the end of the nail has a straight line. When setting up the forms, we pay attention to the lateral axis of the finger (Fig. 2, side view). It is with respect to this line that the forms are placed in accordance with future form artificial nail. This stage in the work sets the basic style of nails. From this angle, the master must control the shape of the longitudinal arch, the placement highest point- apex, lower lines of the laterals, their exit from the stress zone, as well as the parallel between them. When looking at the nails from the front (Fig. 3), the master must check the transverse arch, the correspondence of the internal and external bends (concave - convex), the identity of the transverse bend, C-curve, which must correspond to at least 25% (a quarter-circle arc), and the thickness at the end of the nail, which must be 0.5 mm.

sawdust nails

It is not enough to make the modeling of artificial nails correctly, it is also necessary to file them correctly. Correct technique sawdust is not only an obligatory step in the creation beautiful nails, but also reduces the time of the service. Diagram 3 shows the angles described above. Based on this diagram, I will explain the filing technique, thanks to which you can achieve high speed - 10 nails in 10 minutes. The first stage is sawing of nails in shape, top view. After filing one nail, move on to the next. Visually “taking a picture of the picture”, transfer it further, to another nail. Thus, at this stage, the nails should be the same in length, shape and please your client. The second stage includes sawdust of one nail from all three angles. First, we perform sawdust of the cuticle zone (top view). The arrows in the diagram indicate the direction of the file when working in this area. Next, we file the surface from the sides to the center, directing the file along the trajectory of a quarter of a circle, filing 1, 2, 3 and 4 zones (from top to bottom). Go to the front view and, filing with reciprocating movements, control the concave and convex, as well as the end of the nail. In the side view, we check the shape of the longitudinal arch and the height of the apex. After filing one nail, we move on to another. The third stage is sawdust of the lower walls of the sides, the exit of lines from the stress zone and their parallelism. It is important to remember that at any stage your gaze should be projected exactly on the zone with which you are working at the moment.