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Box made of tubes with a lid. Round box made of newspaper tubes

Many thanks to Owl (Paper Owl) for such a detailed, intelligible, incredibly useful master class. Her boxes are the most gorgeous I've ever seen!

“Good day, dear residents of the Country of Masters! I am fulfilling my promise to make a tutorial on weaving a box with a lid. In no way do I pretend to be the ultimate truth, but I’ll just tell you how I do it. I hope that this MK will be useful to you.

2.
Equipment: plastic salad bowl (its diameter at the top is 23 cm, at the bottom - 16 cm, height is almost 6 cm), a foam ball with a diameter of 10 cm (it is covered with paper, so 10.5 cm), a 1.4 mm knitting needle, on which I twist the tubes, a knitting needle 4 mm, which I use to separate the tubes and poke holes between them. What is missing in the photo is a glue gun, which I use to glue a cross from tubes to start weaving, and a weight.

3.
I roll the tubes from printed newsprint paper (in rolls). I twist strips 35 cm long and 7 cm wide onto a 1.4 mm knitting needle. The thickness of the finished tube is slightly more than 3 mm.
When weaving, I always moisten the working tubes with water so that they become elastic. For stand-ups I always use dry tubes and try as much as possible not to bend or break them.
Since during the weaving of the previous box (its tapering part), the risers made of printing paper were fairly “frayed,” I specially prepared the required number of tubes from consumer paper for them. During the weaving process, I will replace all the risers with new ones and use them for bending. I hope that consumer paper will perform better than the looser printing newsprint.

4.
To paint the tubes I used Novbytkhim water stain (without adding varnish or primer) and stamp paint. The stains and paint were diluted only with water. I used three colors of tubes: 1 – Mocha + a little Mahogany + water = brown, 2 – Lemon + Mahogany + water = yellow-orange, 3 – blue stamp ink + a little Rosewood + water = dirty turquoise.
Since the bottom of the box had already been woven before the start of filming MK, you will have to start with a verbal description, namely, by calculating the number of tubes. I measure the circumference of the shape (salad bowl) at the widest point = approximately 72 cm. Since when weaving I try to keep the distance between the risers no more than 1.5 cm, then I will need 72 / 1.5 = 48 risers at the widest point of the box. Since in the process of weaving the bottom from the center I have to double the risers, I begin to divide the resulting figure by 2 to determine the number of risers for the cross: 48 / 2 = 24. Then 24 / 2 = 12. Perhaps that’s enough dividing. 12 risers can be obtained by making a cross from 6 tubes (each with two ends).

5.
I begin to weave the bottom. I splice the tubes together in twos and use a glue gun to glue them into a cross of 3x3 tubes. I braid the crosspiece with two rows of regular rope. I spread the risers one at a time and continue weaving with a rope. During the weaving process, after 3-4 rows I double the stands and after the 7th row I spread them one at a time. I continue weaving again, double the risers again and after the 8th row I spread them one at a time. I weave a couple more rows and, while the bottom is still flat, I place it on the form (salad bowl). I put a weight on top and braid the shape almost to its top.

6.
The result is in the photo. If you look at the ruler, you can see that we managed to maintain a distance of 1.5 cm between the risers.

7.
I prime the weaving without removing it from the mold: using a brush I impregnate it with a deep penetration primer (or “under the wallpaper”). I'm waiting for it to dry well. After drying, the weave becomes hard and crackles when pressed. Priming helps to maintain the shape of the finished part of the product during further weaving without a template.

8.
I take the well-dried bottom part of the box out of the mold and put the ball inside it. During the weaving process, I will apply it from the inside to the front wall of the product and press the risers against it to give the wall a rounded shape. For ease of weaving, in addition to the ball, it would be nice to place a weight in the center on the bottom, but I don’t have one. Rolling the ball to each riser, I press each riser to the ball, trying to make it “look” at the center of the bottom and not deviate to the sides. For me, weaving without a form turns out to be looser than with a form, so I try to press the rows closer to each other.

9.
This photo shows the process of replacing risers. Last time, when weaving the tapering part of the box, the risers became frayed very quickly, and half of them broke. It may not have been noticeable in the photo, but that was the problem. This time I decided to replace the risers during the weaving process with others (from consumer paper), thereby catching a couple of bunnies at once. Now you don’t have to worry - the length of the risers is definitely enough for bending. I hope that consumer paper will behave more resistantly and that the tubes will withstand all manipulations and subsequent bending. Using scissors, I cut the risers at as wide an angle as possible, coated the cuts with glue and installed new risers.

10.
I continue weaving on new stands. Since the box is designed to be three-color, I gradually introduce yellow-orange color, imitating melange. Then dirty turquoise.

11.
In the process of weaving the tapering part of the riser, I carefully collect it into a bun in a spiral. Next, I take out the ball and weave it without a form. In order to further narrow the shape of the box, I periodically press down the bunch of risers with my hand.

12.
It's time to complete the box. I substitute another working tube and weave one row of rope from three tubes.

13.
The last row of rope of three tubes is completed. The distance between the risers has become slightly less than 1 cm. In order to weave the bend of the “rod”, I cut the risers “at the root” one after another with wire cutters. The distance between the remaining risers has become 2 cm. This will allow you to easily weave the bend of the “rod” and hide the tails inside the box.

14.
Before weaving the riser bends, I moisten them. I usually do this with a small hard brush. The photo shows the first stage of weaving a “rod” bend from three tubes: auxiliary tubes (blue) are inserted for ease of completion.

15.
The photo shows the next stage of weaving the “rod”, which is repeated until the end of the row.

16.
The bending of the “rod” is completed. I would like to draw your attention to the fact that the ends of the tubes stick out a little upward. Since the walls of my box are not vertical, but “piled” inward, the end plane of the bend is also inclined inside the box. And the risers tend to be located in the same plane.

17.
I’m starting to hide my “tails”. If the tubes are dry, I moisten them again with a brush to give them elasticity. This is important at this stage. Using a thick knitting needle, I make a path for the tube and then pull the tip of the riser into the hole formed. In the photo I showed with a red line the place where I am trying to place the riser.

18.
Here the red line shows the first riser, which has already been placed in place between the bending tubes (shot from the other side)

19.
This photo shows a finished bend with risers stretched inside the product. I will trim them after priming and drying.

20.
And this is the result of the work done. Let's start with the lid.

21.
The number of risers for the lid cross was calculated using the method described above, based on the circumference of the finished lid. The finished diameter of the lid will be 16.5-17 cm (including the bend). I begin to weave the lid. I splice the tubes together 2 at a time and glue the 4x4 cross with hot glue. I apply a square to maintain a right angle. Pay attention to the joints of the tubes. I specially place them so as to cover them with working tubes.

22.
I wet the working tubes and begin weaving. I bend one tube (usually 2/3) and bend it around the cross to start weaving. I weave 2 rows with a rope. I usually do this hanging, rather than on the table, wrapping the cross.

23.
I weave the subsequent rows already on the table. To maintain the angles, I place a sheet of paper drawn at the required angles under the weaving and align the risers with the lines on the paper. Next, I divide the risers into 2 rows and braid 3 rows with a rope

24.
3 rows of rope are ready. I separate the risers one by one. To avoid creases, I use a thick knitting needle. Next, I weave 4 rows of rope.

25.
I double the boners. Next you need to weave 4 more rows and again divide the risers one by one. Then another 5 rows of rope.

26.
The last 5 rows are woven. I moisten the risers with a brush and begin to weave the bend of the “rod”.

27.
The lid on the table is positioned with the front (top) side up. At the beginning of weaving, I again use auxiliary tubes (blue).

28.
From the outside it looks like this.

29.
The fold is woven halfway.

30.
Once again, a closer photo of the process of weaving the fold, from the side opposite to me.

31.
The bending is complete. All risers stick out on the front (top) side of the cover.

32.
I begin to stretch the risers to the wrong (bottom) side of the lid in order to weave the inner edge onto them. At the same time, I lay the risers in the direction of their natural inclination - to the right. Using a thick knitting needle, I first make a hole for each riser. I make a hole by stepping back from the edge 2 rows of rope and 2 risers to the right. The red lines showed how I counted 2 rows down and 2 rows to the right.

33.
I continue the process. The risers on the left are already stretched inside out.

34.
Ready! All the risers are on the inside (bottom) side of the lid, and on the outside it turned out to be a nice pigtail.

35.
To weave the inner side, I use a cylinder twisted from a strip of cardboard. Its diameter can be adjusted using ordinary clothespins and used many times for weaving the inner sides of lids of different sizes and not only lids. Comfortable. For the cylinder I used cardboard from candy boxes.

36.
To form the inner side, I wove 2 rows of regular rope. Next there will be a fold, which will add a little more height to the side.

37.
The bending is very simple: I place each riser in front of the two adjacent ones and bend it inward. I like how it looks from the outside and from the end, that the tails end up inside the lid, but I don’t like how the cut stumps look later . I'll try something else.

38.
The bending is complete.

39.
I'm preparing the lid for priming. I trim the ends of the risers, but not “at the root”. I will do the final trimming after the primer has completely dried.

40.
The fitting of the lid was successful! The inner edge fits into the base of the box with little effort. No wonder I struggled with fitting it last time, but now I have all the moves (rows) written down!

41.
Feel free to prime the lid and basket. The primer is perfectly absorbed into the paper. I don’t regret it, I soak it in.

42.
I decided to dry the lid like this - on a cardboard cylinder. It may help to tighten the inner edge of the lid a little so that it fits freely into the base.

43.
I cut off the risers on the lid and the box.

44.
To be honest, I don't really like how the selected colors on the box combine. Therefore, I decided to try to correct the situation with patina. I hope that it will smooth out the transitions and “make friends” the colors. Mixed white and brown acrylic paints. Quite a bit of brown.

45.
I apply the patina with a foam sponge.

46.
This is what the box looks like after applying the patina. I dried it for a couple of hours and applied varnish. I apply the varnish lightly and rub it in with a hard brush. I try not to have any shine. I use Poli-R varnish for saunas.

47.
Ready! You can admire the work done.

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I hope that this master class will be useful to you and that my efforts will not be in vain. I tried very hard and was in a hurry to finish it today, so I took the final photos of the finished work hastily, without waiting for the “lucky” sun. Please forgive me for this. I look forward to your comments, suggestions, corrections. I wish everyone a great mood and success in their creativity! According to the tradition I have established on my own blog, I am embarrassed to answer NOT all comments, but I will definitely answer ALL questions. Agree, it’s more convenient: if they answer, it means there is a question on the matter! shake your hand"

If you like to make things with your own hands, then you will love this round newspaper basket box.

How to weave a box from newspaper tubes for beginners

We will need:

newspapers
stationery knife
glue stick
PVA glue
thin knitting needle
water stain, or acrylic paint, food coloring
acrylic lacquer.

First we make tubes from newspapers

We unfold the sheets of newspaper, fold one sheet of newspaper in half and cut it lengthwise, then fold the resulting sheet in half again and cut it again. You should get newspaper strips the width of a quarter of a newspaper sheet.

Using a knitting needle, we begin to twist the strip diagonally. Pay attention to the angle between the knitting needle and the newspaper, it should be as small as possible.

At the end of the twist, seal the corner.

How to weave a box from newspaper tubes, master class for beginners

We begin to weave the box from the bottom, take 16 tubes for the base and arrange them as shown in the photo; it will be better if you glue them together at the intersection points.

Take one working tube and bend it in half. Start weaving with a rope. When the tubes run out, we extend them by inserting one tube into another.

The bottom of this box is woven in a regular pattern, so the transition to the walls is smooth. When the size of the bottom is sufficient, we place a heavy weight-form on the weaving and begin to braid the form with the same “rope”.

When we reach the desired height, we remove the working tubes and bend the tubes one after another outward, so the shape of the box will look like a barrel.

The lid is woven according to the same principle, only a ready-made woven box was used as a form for its walls.

You can make a handle for the lid. The shape of the handle for the lid can be very diverse. An unusual idea for its shape is shown here. This method is also good because the handle becomes functional and you can put something in it.

This is how you can weave an original box from an ordinary old newspaper, which will bring joy and benefit for many years.

Now you know how to weave a box from newspaper tubes. All that remains is to paint it and give it a more aesthetic appearance. The blue box is painted with acrylic paint, the brown boxes are painted with water stain. After painting, cover the entire surface of the box with PVA glue diluted with water, then cover it with acrylic varnish or any varnish for a wooden surface. The lid of the box can be decorated with lace, flowers, scraps of fabric, beads, braid - use whatever your imagination tells you. We wish you success in needlework and creative inspiration!

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Weaving from newspapers. Amazing boxes with a master class from Sovenok

For lovers of using waste material and weaving from newspaper tubes, I hasten to show the amazing works of the craftswoman Sovenok. Very neat and beautiful wickerwork - trays and boxes are woven by the author from gray newspaper consumer paper. The tubes were painted with water stains - Mocha, Maple, Mocha + Rosewood, diluted and mixed in different proportions. Below you will see a detailed photo master class from the author on weaving a box with a soft textile pad on the lid

Before you start watching a detailed photo master class on weaving a box, I want to appeal to all car owners who value not only luxury, but also their safety) Everyone is well aware of the need for a DVR - an honest and impartial witness to road accidents. Video recording from a DVR, like nothing else, will allow you to prove your innocence in any trouble that has happened. If you don’t yet have such a useful and necessary device, take a look at the website of the online store of modern accessories pulsevision.ru, here you can purchase a new compact Avtovision Micro, as well as learn about all the characteristics and features of this DVR.

The photo below shows everything you need for the job. Among other things, 300 green “fern” and 100 “walnut” tubes (the tubes remained), padding polyester, tablecloth linen, an aluminum mold (a primus lid), weights from collapsible dumbbells. The only thing missing from the photo is the glue gun.

Below is the author's text. I twist the tubes from strips 7 cm wide onto a 1.5 mm knitting needle from gray “Consumer” paper. The finished thickness is 4 mm. She showed the tubes in section. I always moisten the working tubes with water so that they become elastic. At the same time, the water stain that I use to paint them does not wash off and does not stain your hands, which is convenient. For stand-ups I always use dry tubes and try not to bend or break them. I ALWAYS splice the tubes on the wrong side of the weave. To do this, I cut off the thin tip of the tube at an acute angle (as in the photo) BEHIND THE STAND, along with the gluing area (there is usually some unpainting there due to the glue). I put a new one on the tube cut off in this way with the wide end. I try not to spare the tubes. Quality comes first!

I begin to weave the lower part of the box. I splice the tubes for the risers, otherwise they won’t be long enough to bend. I glue 4 pairs of risers with a glue gun (or I DO NOT glue them together, depending on the situation). I try to place the joints of the upper and lower pairs so that they are then covered with working tubes. The remaining joints are in the center.

I use one working tube to weave 2 rows and cut them. I glue the ends. At the same time, I try not to glue them to the risers, so that later the risers can be separated beautifully without kinks. The photo shows the WRONG side.

I take another tube and again weave 2 more rows with one working tube. The photo shows the WRONG side. I marked the place where the first working tube was glued with a circle on the right. Circled on the left is the place where the working tube joins (the second row is not finished yet).

The photo shows the FRONT side. In the circle I showed how I spread double risers, helping with a knitting needle so that they don’t break. The working tube is marked with a square. In the triangle, I glued a second working tube for the “rope”.

The beginning of the second row of the “rope” was marked with thread. I will do the transition to the “reverse rope” all the time at this position.

I showed how I cut the working one. a tube so that the joint is BEHIND the riser.

I have already woven 4 rows with a rope and the distance between the risers has increased - almost 2 cm. In the triangle I showed how I use a knitting needle to dig out a place for inserting additional tubes. In the square there is a stop sign for the transition, and in the circle you can see what the transition looks like.

I wove 2 more rads with a “string”. It’s time to place the risers, and to hide the place where the placement is made, I weave a volumetric roller with gray tubes like a “rope” of 4 tubes. In the circle I showed how I glued additional tubes. In the square is the mark of the FIRST stand. Between the first and second risers there is a red working tube. Between the second and third - yellow, between the third and fourth - green, between the fourth and fifth - blue. To make the joint of this row invisible, you need to join the end of each of the four tubes in the same places at the end of its weaving. Trim the ends. I'm weaving a row. Go...

We've arrived. In the circle is the mark of the FIRST stand. Between the first and second risers there is a joint working tube, which lies behind the FIRST riser - marked it in red. The remaining working tubes were marked with corresponding colors in the same order as at the beginning of the row.

I don’t cut the first working tube (red) yet, but lay it tightly to its beginning. The second (yellow) working tube is joined between the second and third risers, sliding it UNDER ONE tube. I help with a thin knitting needle.

The second (yellow) is docked, now you can trim the first (red). She's not going anywhere anymore.

The first one (red) is cut off and is not visible. The second (yellow) is docked. I join the third (green) between the third and fourth risers. I slide it UNDER TWO tubes.

The third (green) is docked. I cut off the second one (yellow). The last of four workers left (blue).

For order, the last one (blue) also needs to be docked between the fourth and fifth risers, but I don’t do that. I cut it BEHIND the fourth riser (shown in the square) and extend it with a green tube to continue weaving. I cut off the third working one (green). Phew... finished docking. Next, I’ll show it one more time to reinforce it. :)

Then I spread the double risers and weave them with a “rope” into 2 tubes. So, in the square I showed a working tube already extended in green. In the mug I glued a second working tube. And in the triangle I showed how I spread the risers with a knitting needle. Go...

I weave a “rope” with two tubes.

The old mark for the beginning of the row (in the circle) was left behind, since I continued weaving the last of the four tubes of the “gray” row, rather than starting the row where it should have started. As a result, this is not noticeable and I simply make another mark for the beginning of the row (shown in a square). In the triangle - transition to the “reverse rope”.

I wove 3 rows. I marked the places of transitions with circles. The square showed how long the tip I cut when doing extensions.

I try the bottom of the box on the mold - it’s time to make a smooth transition to the walls.

I built the following structure: a rotating circle, on it is a paint bucket, on it is a weight for weighting (it is under an aluminum form), a form on which is a wicker round and again a weight. I put all this on a stool and whip it. In each row, I bend the risers down a little so that the weaving fits smoothly to the shape. Wet tubes are elastic and easily take the required shape.

I lower the risers lower. Don’t forget to make the transition to the “forward” and “reverse” rope at the marked place. The distance between the risers is less than 2 cm, so I don’t double them.

The risers are at the bottom and you can turn the form over.

At a height of 4.5 cm, I begin to weave a rope from 4 tubes. I added additional tubes (put them next to the risers and bent them). Shall we repeat the lesson? The first riser is marked with pink thread, the tubes are decorated in the same order as last time. I'm weaving a row.

I wove a row. I'm joining. It's half past two in the morning, so no comments.

The docking is complete. I extend the blue tube, mark the beginning of the row again with a pin and...

I add 3 working tubes for weaving the second row.

2 gray rows of 4 tubes are already ready. Here is the result. The joints are not visible. There is a bend left.

Before weaving the bends, I moisten the risers with water so that they fit better. For this I use a soft brush. I bend one riser BEHIND one, IN FRONT of two, down.

The second riser is again BEHIND one, IN FRONT of two, down.

The rest are the same. At the same time, I TILT the bend inside the braid.

There are 3 last stops left.

I put the first one (red) also BEHIND one, IN FRONT of two and DOWN

I lay the second one (yellow) in the same way.

All three are packed. The joint is invisible. Hooray!!! The bottom part is done!

I'm starting to make a lid. I cut out 2 circles with a diameter of 8 cm from thick cardboard. Using a ruler, I put marks around the circumference at a distance of 1 cm. Then (important!) I draw radii to them from the center. I cut out larger circles from linen and sew a needle-forward seam along the edge to then tighten the fabric. I put padding polyester on a fabric circle, a cardboard circle on top and tie it with thread. Since the marks on the mug remained under the fabric, when gluing the tubes I was guided by the radii. On the right I showed a ready-made soft circle from the inside out.

I hot glue the risers. There were 26 of them.

I glued the risers. All that remains is to glue the second soft pad.

Ready. You can start weaving, but STOP! I forgot something. I will be weaving a rope from 4 tubes, so I take the tubes moistened with water and glue them between the risers with hot glue (marked them in yellow). The working tubes are wet, the risers are dry.

I am weaving a “rope” from 4 tubes.

The gray row is finished, the photo shows the WRONG side. In the yellow circle I showed where the last of the four working tubes was built up in green. There is a joint in the black oval. The row does not fit tightly to the circle. This means that the circle on the wrong side needs to be made larger next time.

I weave a “straight” and “reverse rope”, marking with a pin the riser at which I make the transition.

I wove 4 rows. This is what transitions look like. The distance between the risers has increased, it's time to double them.

I wove 3 more rows and substituted 4 working tubes for weaving a gray “rope”.

The gray “rope” is ready.

I'm trying it on for shape. Yes.... we should have started the smooth transition to the wall earlier, but that’s how it happened. Next time I'll do less stand-ups. Transitions are marked in yellow.

I built the pyramid again.

I spread the bones, helping with a thick knitting needle.

I weave a “rope” into 2 tubes. You have to simultaneously raise the risers and lower them when weaving. The distance between them is very small - inconvenient. But what can you do... it didn’t fit into the mold. :(I'll take it into account next time.

I continue to weave and lower the risers.

Since the weaving bends downwards, the distance between the risers almost does not increase. Weaving is inconvenient. :(

The stands had to be lowered quite steeply - in just 5 rows. I turn it over.

I continue to weave upwards with risers. It's cramped, the wet tubes are shaggy. I hide this mess as best I can.

Since it is impossible to try on the lid with protruding risers, I weave it by eye, not very tightly to the shape. Or I take out the mold, try it on the base of the box and estimate approximately how much wider the lid should be than the mold.

The height of the lid is 5 cm. The height of the bottom part of the box is the same, BEFORE the gray volumetric rims. I cut off the working tubes.

Since the distance between the risers is small, there is nowhere to hide them - I cut them off. :(((

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Before you start weaving a square box, you need to learn how to make a square bottom. Let us immediately warn you that the square shape often causes difficulties for beginners, so beginners are recommended to start with small round baskets. You can familiarize yourself with the procedure for weaving such baskets in our previous article.

There are several ways to make a square bottom:

Use ordinary plywood (we will tell you more about it below);
Weave the bottom using tubes, the bottom will turn out beautiful, wicker. But this option will be a little difficult for beginners at the initial stage;
The bottom for a wicker box can be a piece of corrugated cardboard covered with paper, wallpaper or fabric.

Let's first look at this option for making the bottom.

Cardboard bottom covered with vinyl wallpaper

Maintaining geometry while weaving a rectangular bottom is one of the most difficult tasks for a beginner. In such cases, a cardboard bottom is used, which is in no way inferior to a wicker one.

In order to make a cardboard bottom we will need:

Vinyl wallpapers. You can replace them with anything: from plain paper to fabric;
pva glue;
Cardboard with double corrugation.

We cut out the bottom of the dimensions we need from cardboard. The wallpaper must be divided into two rectangles of different sizes. We cut the first one to the size of the bottom, and make the second one a little larger (for bending).

Carefully coat the cardboard with glue on one side. We take a blank of a larger area and put cardboard on it. After turning it over, smooth the wallpaper with a polyurethane spatula to remove all bubbles. Of course, you can do without it, but such a tool will simplify the work and make it better.

Smoothed wallpaper sticks in a matter of minutes! Having smeared the base with glue, we press the fold tightly to the cardboard, as if pulling it from the edges to the center.

Important! In some cases, the wallpaper may not stick to each other. In such situations, it is recommended to glue the corners with a more powerful glue.

Next, apply pva to the base and firmly press a smaller piece of wallpaper (cut according to the size of the bottom). After this, smooth out and remove the bubbles using the same spatula. The bottom is ready!

Don't be alarmed if the corners are slightly off. Glue them with a more powerful glue, for example, polymer “Master”, “Dragon” or “Titan”.

Now, so that the bottom does not bend over night and dry out thoroughly, it needs to be placed under pressure. After a day, you can begin the next stage of weaving a box from newspaper tubes: creating holes for the stands.

To do this we need an awl with an extension and a rather sharp tip. Holes need to be made at the ends of the bottom along its entire perimeter, at a distance of approximately 2.5 cm from each other. Note! The awl should fit evenly. Do not damage the bottom walls.

Now you need to glue the racks into each hole.

Lubricate the holes with pva glue, and remove the excess with a cloth. The deeper you manage to place the rack, the stronger the structure will be.

Compared to bottoms made by gluing racks between two blanks (shown in the photo below), this method is particularly elegant. The products are thin and neat, which is great for creating small baskets and boxes.

In order for the glue to set well and to be sure that the racks will not fall out, it is necessary to leave the bottom for a couple of hours to dry. After this, you can safely continue working.

As a precaution, we will make the inside of the box on the side where the smaller piece of wallpaper was pasted. This is done in case the basket is placed on a wet surface.

In this case, nothing will come off, since the outer edge is wrapped in wallpaper. Also, to protect against moisture and make the structure stronger, the bottom is coated with acrylic varnish.

Let's start raising the racks. This should be done as follows:

Taking an auxiliary, new tube, we place it under the counter (pay attention to the photo below). Next, we bend the stand, bringing it under the neighboring ones and lifting it up. We repeat this action with all the other tubes.

Important! Pay attention to the angle! In order for the corner post to maintain its position, you need to move it towards you (look at the photo below).

Next, we bring the previous rack under it and lift the corner one up. Thus, the original corner post seems to hug the new corner post and lead it behind the next one. This method allows you to get an even angle.

Having done this around the perimeter of the bottom, remove the auxiliary tube and place the last remaining stand in its place. As a result, we got a neat bottom.

Now the main task is to beautifully braid the resulting frame in any convenient way, with calico weaving or rope.

Paper for the bottoms or imitation wrinkled fabric/leather.

If wallpapering cardboard seems too banal or just doesn’t suit your taste, don’t be afraid to experiment! For example, use regular A4 sheets or watercolor paper.

Take a regular sheet of A4 office paper and lightly spray it on both sides with a spray bottle. Next, scrunch it into a ball, making small folds, and hold it in your fist. This is necessary so that each fold is well saturated with water and slightly loosened. Carefully unroll the wet sheet of paper and place it on the film.

Take a brush and paint the sheet on one side with a light stain. Turning it over, paint it dark.

Advice! It will be much easier to turn the sheet over without damaging its integrity if you cover it with a second piece of film, turn it the other side and remove the piece on which the paper was originally located.

A very interesting pattern appears on the front side of the paper: veins painted with dark stain appear through the light stain.

After drying, the paper will shrink slightly and begin to look like leather. Before gluing it to the cardboard, it is recommended to spray the sheet on one side with a spray bottle.

After varnishing such bottoms, they turn out unique and quite attractive.

Alena Bugrova offered her step-by-step video tutorial on decorating the bottom of a wicker basket. This method requires more effort and time and involves applying a multi-layer patina. The result will pleasantly surprise you!

Weaving a square bottom from newspaper tubes using a machine

Without a machine, a beginner in this business will not be able to hold the racks in the correct position. They can taper towards the center, taking away the geometry of the bottom, so getting an even rectangle without having experience behind you is not easy. There are several types of homemade machines. Let's consider each of them separately.

Machine No. 1 - arched perforated plastic corner

Such a machine is constructed using an arched profile for drywall. It rigidly fixes the racks and dimensions of the product. The tubes are inserted into one of the parts of the corner (where the holes are) and not removed until the end of the weaving, and the other (where the recesses) are used for the active movement of the racks when creating the bottom. The opposite ends of the tubes are placed precisely in these chamfers.

Olga Ladoga covered the topic of weaving on this machine step by step and in detail. Watch the lesson in this video:

To maintain evenness and consistency of shape, it is recommended to place skewers or knitting needles on the outer posts.

To make weaving comfortable and enjoyable, one condition must be met. Tubes used as racks, must be completely dry, and workers (used directly during weaving) - wet.

There are several ways to braid racks: with chintz (you will need one tube) and with “reverse rope” (you will need 2). When weaving with chintz, you need to take turns placing the tube behind the counter and in front of it. When weaving with a “reverse rope”, the bottom will be more even and will not bend.

You can braid the racks as follows: if you weave with chintz, leave the ends of the working tubes on the sides, approximately every 2-3 rows. In the future they will be side posts. The result should look like this:

How to achieve this:

However, if you braid the posts completely without leaving the ends, then you need to add tubes to the two bare walls. This is done at the end of the work, after we remove the bottom from the machine.

With this option, glue new racks every 3 rows (look at the photo below):

After this, it is recommended to braid the racks with a simple rope, preferably 2 rows. This way they will be held in place more firmly. And only after this can you raise the racks.

Machine No. 2 - cardboard in combination with clothespins

If you do not have the opportunity to make a machine from PVC corners, make it from simple materials at hand, for example from a piece of cardboard. Just secure the posts with clothespins at the distance you need from each other. Important! The racks must be strictly fixed on one side and movable on the other.

Taking a piece of cardboard, draw stripes on it at a distance of 1.5-1.8 cm.

To each line, observing the ruler, we attach newspaper tubes using clothespins. The tubes can also be secured with masking tape instead of clothespins. The tape can then be easily removed without leaving any traces.

Machine No. 3 - penoplex (or cardboard) in combination with tailor's pins

Many people use penoplex as a material for making the machine, which can be purchased at any hardware store. The softness of the material allows you to insert tailor's pins into it, which can even be replaced with toothpicks. They serve as a kind of limiter for the tubes; during the braiding process they are not pulled to the sides. The distance between the posts can be made 2-2.5 cm, depending on your preferences.

The weaving pattern on this machine is discussed step by step in the video:

Maintain right angles

Often, craftswomen who take up this business for the first time have difficulties with the evenness of the corner posts. To achieve perfect evenness of the corners, you need to weave on a rigid form! The corners must be clear. For this, not only a cardboard box of the shape you need is suitable, but also other available materials that can hold their shape well. It is possible to use even large children's LEGO sets.

When raising the racks, remember that the outermost ones must be exactly in the center of the corner. Before you start braiding the walls, it is recommended to insert 2 additional posts into the corner. Thus, this corner post will not be single, but triple.

Olga Ladoga explains the basic principles of braiding corners in her master class:

Weaving a large laundry box

If you are just starting to weave, we advise you to use a cardboard bottom. It will be difficult to take on the task of making a wicker bottom without some preparation: after all, you need to follow the instructions and ensure the evenness of the corners and each post.

Since a laundry basket made from newspaper tubes is designed for a large load, in the case of a cardboard bottom it is recommended to make the bottom double: so that the posts are located between two sheets of cardboard.

If you plan to use plywood, then the bottom of the bottom for the linen box can be made single, in this case, the racks must be secured as firmly as possible using a furniture stapler and polymer glue. To prevent the staples from being visible, you need to take plywood at least 6 mm thick, otherwise they will come out from the inside out.

When forming double bottom made of plywood or MDF, it will look much neater if you take two sheets 4 mm thick. There will be no joints, the bottom will be smooth both inside and out.

If your choice still falls on corrugated cardboard, you will need two blanks made according to the template. Do not forget to cover them with wallpaper or other paper analogues. Between these blanks we glue the stands using polymer glue (look at the photo below)! This will give the structure greater strength.

Leave it to dry overnight under pressure. After this, we braid at least one row of ropes around the perimeter. You can braid a rope into 3 or more tubes, or you can braid it into 2 tubes. This step will eliminate the gaps between the workpieces.

Now, in a way already familiar to us, we lift the racks up, wrapping them behind the adjacent one, and align them.

If you place the racks behind the second adjacent one, the frame will take on the following form:

Now all that remains is to braid the racks with any of the patterns. For beginners, “chintz” may be suitable, as it requires a minimal amount of material to weave. Having placed the form inside, we begin weaving with moistened tubes. We continue to the height we need.

When weaving with a “simple rope”, approximately one and a half times more material is wasted than when weaving with “chintz”.

You can complete the work by cutting off the racks. Paint the resulting “stumps” with the same solution that was used to paint the tubes so that unsightly cuts are not visible.

Now the box needs to be primed. Mix the following ingredients in 1:1 proportions: varnish and water, or water and pva glue. After this, the casket needs to be thoroughly coated and dried.

Leave it for at least a day. In a day it will acquire rigidity and will squeak pleasantly. Then we cover it with acrylic varnish in 1-2 layers and let it dry.

Rectangular lid with inner edge

In order to make such a lid, you need to follow the following sequence of actions:

We glue 2 racks to the cardboard, as shown in the photo.

Next, after applying glue, we attach a second piece of cardboard and send our frame to dry under pressure.

We weave with a “rope” to the size we need, braiding both posts. The size should not exceed the internal size of the box.

Having tried it on and made sure that the lid does not reach the edges a couple of centimeters, we continue to braid only one rack, bending the second one. It will serve as the beginning of our future side. For ease of weaving, you can place books under the lid.

Having reached the desired size, we turn it over and begin weaving a side of 2-3 rows. Then we cut off the racks and try the lid on the box again.

Since the corners are not strong enough, these posts must be bent under the side, secured with glue, and then cut off. Since the rest of the weaving is dense, we simply cut off the remaining posts.

A box made of newspaper tubes can serve not only as a laundry basket, but also as storage for toys. Knitting them is no more difficult than knitting, and the possibilities are very diverse. In a similar way, you can make things of various sizes: it could be a small box or chest, which is very useful in everyday life.

Get inspired with us and create beautiful things!

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