Sew with a machine seam. Types of hand stitches: application and purposes
Permanent hand stitches are used when sewing clothes or any other fabric product. For example, a back and forth stitch can replace a straight needle machine stitch in small areas. The edges that are inaccessible to the machine are processed using an “over-the-edge” seam and an overcast seam.
A straight seam, more often used to secure folds. The seam is simple, but not very reliable. Work from right to left, sticking the needle in and out several times before pulling the thread through. Stitch length 3 mm.
Durable seam used instead of machine stitch. From right to left, make a small stitch. Insert the needle into the beginning of the previous stitch and pull it through the front of the thread. Sew the next stitches in the same manner, inserting the needle at the end of the previous stitch.
A strong stitch that can be used for both overcasting edges and sewing together multiple layers of fabric. From right to left, pierce the fabric with a needle, from bottom to top, stepping back a few millimeters from the edge. Continuing the seam, move to the left.
Used for invisible sewing of zippers. From right to left, make a small backstitch, pulling the needle 6-10mm to the left of the thread. Next, make the same tiny backstitch stitches.
Used for butt joining 2 layers of fabric. From right to left, sew a 6mm stitch inside the folded edge of one fold. Then make the same stitch inside the folded edge of the other fold.
Used for processing the edges of non-flowing fabrics. From right to left, stepping back a little from the edge, pierce the fabric with a needle from bottom to top. Step back a little to the left and pierce the fabric again from bottom to top.
A decorative stitch used instead of stitching along the top. From right to left, make a small backstitch, picking up a few threads from the fabric. Back off 7-10 mm and remove the needle, grabbing only the top layer of fabric. Repeat.
In this article we have described almost all the main manual permanent seams, about temporary hand stitches we will write in the next article.
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We will devote the third sewing lesson to hand stitches.
The parts of the product are fastened using seams made in one or more lines - a series of repeating uniform stitches.
Stitches can also serve decorative purposes - they are often used in decoration.
They should be even, with equal distances between stitches on both the front side and the back, with threads evenly tightened.
Let's look at the main types hand stitches.
Reminds me of machine stitching.
It is used to permanently connect two parts in places where machine execution difficult, or in cases where it is necessary to obtain a seam of increased extensibility.
There is no space between stitches. Sew from top to bottom. The distance between the entrance and exit of the needle is 0.1-0.7 cm.
The injection is made at the exit site of the previous stitch.
Marking seam(a seam behind a needle) is performed in the same way as a stitched one, but with a distance between the stitches.
The needle prick is made halfway between the entry and exit of the previous stitch.
Overlock Stitch
Overlock stitch protects cut parts from falling off.
There are several types.
Slant overlock stitch they do it over the edge.
The needle is inserted from the bottom up, the stitch is laid with the frame to the left.
Cross overlock stitch performed in the same way as an oblique, only in two directions.
The thread is not torn off and the product is not turned.
Looped process sections in loose tissues.
The needle is inserted from top to bottom, the thread of the previous stitch lies under the needle. The line is laid from left to right.
The seam density is 2-3 stitches 0.4-0.6 cm long per 1 cm of fabric.
Hemming seams used for hemming the edge of a product detail (bottom of a sleeve, bottom of a skirt).
The cut is pre-prepared for filing.
First, fold the entire hem allowance and baste it at a distance of 0.5-1 cm from the fold using a running stitch.
Then the cut is folded by 0.5-1 cm and basted at a distance of 0.2-0.3 cm from the second fold.
The folded cut is ironed.
There are hemming seamsseveral types.
Simple(open).
With the needle coming out of the fold, grab 2-3 threads of the main part, make an injection under the fold and push the needle.
The seam density is 2-3 stitches per 1 cm of fabric.
The entire basted hem allowance is folded back to front side, on the wrong side there remains 0.2-0.3 cm of a folded cut.
The thread is secured in the hem allowance, the needle is inserted under the fold of the edge being hemmed, and when exiting, 2-3 threads of the main part are picked up.
The line is laid from right to left. The thread is not pulled tight. The seam density is 2-3 stitches per 1 cm of fabric.
Curly (cross-shaped) seam.
This seam is used when hemming the bottom of a product made of dense, non-flowing fabrics and as a finishing seam.
Sew from left to right from bottom to top. The cut is open, the fabric is folded only to allowance.
The first injection is made into the main fabric near the cut, 2-3 threads are picked up on the needle so as not to pierce on the front side, the second injection is behind the hem allowance.
Seam density is 2-3 stitches per 1 cm of fabric, stitch length is 0.4-0.7 cm.
Finishing Seams
Finishing seams used to decorate children's and women's clothing.
The most common of them are loop, tambour, herringbone, cross, goat-cross, hemstitch, “nun” (triangle).
The nun secures folds, pockets, stitches, and cuts.
The outline of an equilateral triangle is drawn with a basting line.
The first stitch is made from one corner at the base of the triangle to its vertex, the second - from the vertex to the third corner, the next - from the third corner to the first near the starting point of the seam, etc.
The thread is laid tightly and with the same tension.
This fills the entire triangle.
For strength, a piece is sewn from the inside out lining fabric.
a - looped,
b - tambour,
c - herringbone,
g - cross,
d - goat-cross,
e - hemstitch,
Hand stitches often come to the rescue good housewives. Using hand stitches, you can join two cut parts, finish the edge of trousers, or decorate open areas of clothing, bags, and other items.
Seam “forward needle” (Seam No. 1)
The seam will help temporarily hold two pieces of fabric together. How is it done? Pass the needle and thread forward from right to left. There can be any number of stitches, it all depends on the size of the parts. This type of seam can save time next method: Pick up several stitches on the needle at once. The stitch length can be different: from 5 mm to 10 mm. Many needlewomen alternate lengths.
Copy stitches (snares, seam No. 2)
This seam acts as a copier. For example, a seamstress needs to copy a dart line. The stitch resembles the previous temporary stitch, but the stitch is not tightened. Hand stitching produces slack stitches. When the entire sewing operation is completed, the fabric moves apart and you need to use scissors to cut the resulting gap along the sagging stitches. IN finished form The snares are obtained in the form of small scraps of thread, but they are on those sides of the fabric where you need to see the stitching line.
Running seam (seam No. 3)
This seam is used if you need to temporarily fasten two parts together (for example, a sleeve along the side sections) or before preparing for fitting, to lay a machine stitch. The seam has another name. THIS basting. It is performed as a “forward needle” seam.
Blind stitches (seam No. 4)
The seam is used for hemming hems of dresses, trousers and other similar sewing operations. WITH wrong side Use a needle to pick up 2-3 threads and the basted edge, tighten the needle and thread. This technique will allow you to have the front side of the product clean, without any stitches. The stitches are visible from the reverse side of the product. The hem of the dress should be folded over once with the hem closed.
Loop stitch (seam No. 5)
This type of hand stitching is considered decorative. It resembles a seam on an overlocker (only by hand).
The work begins with an over-the-edge stitch. Thread a needle and thread into the loop formed and tighten. The loop stitch is ready. Using this method, you can make loops on the product (the stitches should lie tightly to each other).
Seam "over the edge"
This type of hand stitching is used to finish open edges on fabric. The stitches are applied along an oblique line. The distance between stitches is 0.5 cm.
All tailors want to sew a product quickly and efficiently. But as often happens, when working for sewing machine one part is extended relative to another or, conversely, assembled. Or when trying on already ready-made clothes, it turns out that the product does not fit the figure. Therefore, before you start laying on a machine, you need to secure the parts or some assembly in front (valve or side corner) manually. Many people neglect handmade due to laziness or speed, however, do not forget about the saying “The slower you go, the further you will go”! The more painstaking the manual work, the easier, faster and better quality a particular unit will be processed.
Types of hand stitches.
There are 7 types of hand stitches in total:
When making hand stitches, you need to make sure that they are even and uniform, and the threads need to be tightened evenly.
Straight stitches
Straight ones are the simplest and very easy to bloom. They are used only temporarily and are removed during further processing. The following lines are made from straight stitches.
Basting stitch
We fold the two parts with their right sides inward, aligning the cuts or control lines, and lay straight stitches 7-15 mm long - with a slight slack in one of the parts, and 15-25 - without slack.
Such stitches are used to connect side, shoulder sections, etc.
Basting stitch
We place one part on top of another and connect them with straight stitches 7-25 mm long - with a fit, and 25-50 mm without a fit.
It is used when you need to connect two parts by placing one on top of the other, as well as for connecting small parts with large ones, for example, when you need patch pockets, lining on a shelf, etc.
Note stitch
We bend the cut of the part along the intended line and lay a line of straight stitches 10-30 mm long.
Used to temporarily secure a folded section of a part (sweep the bottom of the product, the bottom of the sleeves, etc.).
Basting stitch
It is used to temporarily secure the facing edge of a part when making products from thin materials and materials with stripes and checkered patterns (flap, collar, bead, etc.). Stitch length – 7-10 mm. The stitch is laid from the side of the part to which I pass the seam, that is, they form an edging.
The edge is the distance from the edge to the seam.
Copy line
Used to transfer lines from one part to another. Two identical parts are folded with their right sides inward, aligning all the cuts, and a line of straight, loose stitches is laid along the marked lines, while forming loops 2-3 mm high, depending on the thickness of the fabric. Then we move the parts apart, stretching the stitches, and cut the threads of the stitches between the parts. Stitch length 10-15 mm.
Stitch for forming gathers.
To form gathers, lay two parallel lines 3-7 mm long with a distance from the cut of the part to the first line of 3-5 mm, between lines 1-4 mm. We tighten the cut of the part with thread to the desired size. We distribute the resulting assemblies evenly along the entire length.
Oblique stitches
They form a more durable and elastic connection of materials than straight ones. Oblique stitches are used to make lines for both temporary and permanent purposes.
- Temporary bias stitches include:
Basting stitch
Replaces basting stitch with straight stitches when it is necessary to obtain a more stable connection of parts, since oblique stitches do not allow one part to move relative to another. For example, with parts with a fit - collars on the front, top collar on the bottom, etc. Stitch length 7-20 mm.
Basting stitch
Replaces the basting stitch with straight stitches on all fabrics except thin dress fabrics and striped suit fabrics. Slant stitches can distort the design by pulling it across the stitches. For example: the edges of flaps, hems, etc. Basting is done from the side of the part to which the seam is passed, forming an edging. Stitch length 7-10 mm.
- Permanent bias stitches include:
Overcast stitch
We protect the cut parts from falling off. (bottom cut of the product, sleeves, etc.) Stitch length 5-7 mm. Width 3-5 mm. Stitch frequency 3-4 per 1 cm.
Quilt stitch
It is used for fastening the main and interlining fabrics to increase the elasticity of the part (lapel, jacket collar). To perform it, the upper fabric, the cushioning one, is pierced through, and the lower one, the main one, is half-thick. As a result, the stitching thread on the front side is not visible. Stitch length 5-7 mm, width 3-5 mm. The distance between lines is 5-7 mm.
Hem stitch
Used for permanently securing the folded edge of a part with an open raw cut in thick fabrics, as well as for edging the inner edges of hems, etc. Seam width with open cut– 2-3 mm, with closed – 1 mm. The stitch length for a seam with an open cut is 3-5 mm, for hemming an edge 5-7 mm, for attaching the inner edges of a part 4-10 mm.
Stitches for discreet fastening of parts
There are two types:
A) Stitching stitch - for inconspicuously connecting parts of a product made of dense, non-fraying fabrics where they were accidentally cut or torn. The parts are placed end-to-end, matching the pattern. At a distance of 2-3 mm from the cut, the needle pierces the tissue to half its thickness and is then inserted into the cut. The cut should be tightly connected with stitches. Nothing should be visible from the front side. Stitch length 1-2 mm, frequency 5-7 stitches per 1 cm.
B) Cover stitch - needed to make the seam made on a sewing machine inconspicuous.
Cross stitches
Used for hemming the bottom of products. A special feature of such stitches is the absence of threads on the front side of the product. Hemming can be done in open form along the edge or hidden - inside the hem allowance. You can also make finishing stitches using cross stitches. The length and width of the stitches are 5-7 mm.
Loop stitches
Used for hand loops, as well as for decorative design any details, napkins, blankets. Make a loop stitch. The stitch size is determined by the designer. When sewing buttonholes, the frequency of stitches is 6-10 for every 10 mm, the width is 2-3 mm.
Loop stitches
Stitches provide the most durable and elastic bonding of materials, and are used only for permanent stitches.
Loop stitches make the following stitches:
Fur stitch
They are used when finishing the edges of jacket parts (sides, collar, hem, etc.). When performing them, the threads of the stitches are placed inside the fastening of the fabrics and the stitching is hardly noticeable from the top and bottom sides. Stitch length 3-4 mm.
Marking line
Needed to connect several layers of fabric, if necessary, create a strong but elastic bond.
The needle pierces through all layers of fabric. Having made a stitch, step back 0.5 stitches from the execution side. On the front side it imitates a running stitch. Stitch length is 1.5-2 cm. Used when marking armholes, sewing shoulder pads, etc.
Hemming (hidden) stitch
It is this line that is used when they say “luxury treatment”. It is called “secret” for a reason; it is not visible either from the back or from the front side.
The needle is first inserted into the fold of the folded edge, and then, at the level of the fold puncture, we make a puncture along the edge of the folded allowance to half the thickness of the fabric. The stitch frequency is 3-4 per 1 cm. Used when you need to line the armhole of a sleeve or the bottom of a product, etc.
Stitch stitch
In other words, it is also called “back needle”. It imitates machine stitching, and on one side it is no different from it. Has a permanent purpose.
The needle pierces through all layers of fabric, after making a stitch, it returns back to the previous puncture. The next puncture is made from the opposite side of the execution at a distance equal to two stitches and again returns to the previous puncture. Stitch length 3-5 mm.
Special stitches
Used when you need to make loop fastenings, buttons, hooks or buttons.
Today it’s time to study the means of artistic representation in embroidery - various stitches. Be patient, read the article to the end, motivation and inspiration awaits you!
I will say right away that with such an incredible variety of stitches and techniques in embroidery, we will consider only the most important and interesting, in my opinion, my favorite embroidery methods.
Cross. I’ll start with the simplest, but at the same time the most significant element and method of embroidery. We have already talked about its connection with the rituals and beliefs of the ancient Russians in the first part of our conversation about embroidery. The cross was considered protection from dark forces and any evil. It is still used for the same purposes. The cross is laconic and beautiful, but its most magical and incredible property for me is that thanks to the little prickly hedgehog, pictures are created. It's all about the size and number of these "hedgehogs", of course. Crosses are like pixels: the more there are, the clearer and more realistic the image.
The thread consumption will be less, the work will progress much faster, the embroidery will look neater if you first embroider the lower diagonals of all the crosses (for example: from right to left from bottom to top). And then you will finish the crosses with a perpendicular crossbar (for example: from left to right from bottom to top). Note! The figure shows a way to save time: it is not necessary to pull the needle under the hoop and then return it to the front side of the embroidery. You can make a stitch with one movement and immediately find yourself in in the right place! 🙂 Here’s a little trick.
When people talk about cross stitch, it immediately seems simple. cross or "Russian cross", but there are many more types of cross stitch.
I will dwell briefly on the complex (double) cross and on the counted surface.
Double cross or " Bulgarian cross» looks a bit like a snowflake and consists of two crosses superimposed on each other with an offset.
Cross stitch also includes countable surface. Let me remind you that this stitch is called “counted” because the length of the stitch is determined by the number of warp (canvas) threads.
Now it would be logical to get acquainted with the namesake of the counting surface - with uncountable surface. In Rus' it was called Surface finished embroidery even and smooth as satin. Satin differs from counted satin stitch in that the length and direction of its stitch are determined only by the contour of a particular embroidery detail.
It is important to prepare the “flooring” - it is like a skeleton for musculoskeletal tissue, like a foundation for a future home. The flooring can be the outline of an embroidery detail (leaf, petal, etc.) “circled” by a chain stitch or other stitch (we will look at the chain stitch later).
If the embroidery piece is large in size, then flooring (as I call it) is necessary over its entire area, which is often done with threads to match the background. The flooring stitches can be quite rare; they should not cover the entire area of the part, but it is important that they are perpendicular to the future main satin embroidery. Such a “foundation” will support top embroidery, will make it voluminous, give it a neat and even appearance. The knit (top) stitches of the satin stitch itself will not fall or sag. Also pay attention to the tension of the thread while embroidering so that the stitches lie tightly, but at the same time do not tighten the fabric.
For extra volume, the piece can be embroidered using satin stitch in two layers, the stitches of which will be perpendicular to each other.
The next number in our program will be the “chain” or “tambour” seam - this is a continuous chain of loops coming out of one another. The loops can be small or large depending on the thickness of the thread and the length of the stitch being performed. Using a tambour chain, various patterns are embroidered along a free contour or the entire plane of the motif is covered in rows. This seam also has its own variations and complications.
"Loop with attachment" can be considered a type of chain stitch or rather a separate element of it.
And now on our stage there is a “French knot” - dearest visual medium in embroidery! With its help you can easily add volume and charm to your work. You can see for yourself what different images can be created with the help of this small and remote knot. 🙂
Meanwhile, it is done very simply: a needle is wrapped around two circles of thread, stuck into the fabric near the end of the thread coming out of the fabric, and pulled through these loops. The knot is ready!
The next seam is rococo. M This is not the name that reminds me of a chicken. 🙂 And if the “French knot” is a chicken, then Rococo is its mother, because Rococo is a complicated interpretation of the French knot, in my opinion. For rococo, the needle needs to be inserted at a distance from the thread exiting the fabric, and when the end of the needle appears next to the thread coming out of the canvas, you need to wind a little more loops of thread around it than for a knot. After you pull the needle and thread through the loops, you will get a “caterpillar” or “smile”, as you like. We lay it out as required by the design and composition of the embroidery, and fix it by sticking a needle into the fabric in the right place. Please note that the thread must be completely covered by the loops: the “caterpillar” should be dense. To do this, the number of turns of the thread around the needle must correspond to the distance between the thread exiting the fabric and the subsequent entry of the needle into the fabric. You can tighten and tighten the loops on the thread a little, but not indefinitely.
Rococo is most often used for embroidering flowers and leaves.
And now... My beloved . When my mother taught “workshops” (labor) in pedagogical school, she's on at will mastered this type of needlework, although she already possessed and still possesses an impressive range of creative skills. In the evenings, I watched with rapture as my mother worked magic with the hoop and performed miracles with threads...
In my opinion, the most unpleasant thing about hemstitching is the boring and rather labor-intensive process of pulling threads out of the fabric (pulling) in order to create a “springboard” for further creativity. And then you need to arm yourself with some kind of optics and provide good lighting(as for any type of needlework). If you have patience, you are guaranteed a masterpiece! Merezhka is the spirit folk embroidery! It is incredibly beautiful, original and gentle! See for yourself:
There are different hems. There are types of hemstitching designed to work with “tracks” (as I personally call holey, perforated striped spaces on fabric). And there are types of hemstitching suitable for decorating and processing the corners of the future pattern.
To avoid disappointment, you need to start with a “short distance race” - with simple type hemstitch and short “track”. When positive result will inspire you, you can take on more difficult options this end-to-end embroidery. Go for it!
In my opinion, hemstitch is the sister of weaving and a relative of macrame.
I bow before the beauty and nobility of yet another type of embroidery. Meet us! Magnificent in person. Just like hemstitching, this embroidery method is borderline with other types of needlework. Richelieu is very similar to lace. Cutwork is also close to knitting and macramé because it contains “hinged” (as I call them) elements over pieces of fabric that will later be cut out. These constrictions woven from threads, similar to rope bridges over an abyss, like Atlanteans, support the entire composition and the central fragments of openwork, end-to-end embroidery.
The next seam that we will consider is stalked. With your permission, I will end there. But don't rush to leave. 🙂 At the end of this article the most interesting things await you!
This was our last “exhibit” for today. But please, read the publication to the end.
If all this time you have been admiring the products of masters, admiring pictures and photographs, and sadly thought that creating such masterpieces was beyond your capabilities... I will give you reasons that can inspire you.
1. In China there lives a woman who was born without arms in the literal sense of the word. The most amazing thing is that she is a talented embroiderer!
Agree that after this, talking about yourself as full and healthy: “armless” or “arms grow from the wrong place” is simply a sin!
2. The modern world offers so many different devices to help that facilitate the creative process and help you get pure pleasure from embroidery.
Convenient lamps with magnifying glasses are at your disposal to protect your eyesight. Hoops of various sizes, shapes and models have been designed, as well as entire installations for securing fabrics during embroidery.
3. We have much more possibilities, time and energy for creativity for pleasure than our great-great-grandmothers, who had a subsistence economy with domestic animals and birds, a vegetable garden, as a rule, large families and heavy physical work in field.
4. You can not only enjoy the creative process, but also use the result (the product of your activity). It can be a wonderful gift for family and friends, a talisman for your home, or a decoration for yourself. Some people also receive financial rewards for their hobby, like the Fair masters, for example.
5. And finally, the most important thing, in my opinion! Creativity gives modern woman an opportunity to feel like a little fairy, a kind sorceress, a creator of comfort and a good atmosphere in the house. Embroidery or another type of creativity can make you an even more “kind and happy” woman, wife, mother, sister, friend... Any handicraft is many times more beneficial for mental balance and health in general than watching TV series or gossiping with neighbors. Creativity helps relieve stress, find inner harmony and peace.
Therefore, be creative and be happy, dear sorceresses!
