Beautiful combination of colors in makeup. What is the color wheel in makeup? What are the main properties and characteristics of color?

  • The artist Johann Itten was one of the first to think about how to choose the right colors. He also invented the theory of color types, which cosmetic companies subsequently began to actively use in the field of makeup, for the makeup of actors. And then - create sets of cosmetics suitable for different color types, so that customers do not get lost in the variety of products and can easily choose something for themselves.
  • Over time, a simple theory that divided the diversity of people’s appearance into only four types (“spring”, “summer”, “autumn” and “winter” - determine yours by going through) began to become more complicated. After all, it is impossible to fit everyone into such a limited number of types. Endless options began to appear" cold autumn", "natural spring", " mild summer“, and it became more and more difficult to understand this whole complex scheme.
  • Today, beauty professionals often select colors and shades in makeup based on a more understandable and easier method. According to it, in order to find “your” colors in makeup, you need to determine and take into account only three parameters of appearance: lightness, contrast and temperature. Let's talk about this in more detail.

Lightness

  • Lightness is the location of a color between white and black. When determining the level of lightness, they rely on the color of the skin, eyes and hair. For example, blonde hair light eyes and fair skin is a sign of “fair” appearance. Dark eyes, dark hair and dark skin is, accordingly, a sign of “dark” appearance. If the details of appearance have different level lightness, determine what exactly dominates and makes the main impression. Hair often sets the tone for everything, and, for example, the appearance of a brunette with medium light skin is more “dark.”
  • This option allows you to select the lightness of the colors in your makeup. In order for it to be as harmonious as possible, the lightness of the shades in the makeup should approximately correspond to the lightness of the appearance. For example, a blonde with light skin may look as if her eyes are “glued” to her face: they are so inconsistent with her natural characteristics. On a “dark” appearance, even black shadows will not look too bright.

Contrast

  • Contrast is the difference between the lightest and the brightest dark color in appearance. Again, you should start from the color of your skin, eyes and hair. Typically, hair is the darkest element in appearance and skin is the lightest, but there is room for other variations. The contrast may be low (for example, as in girls with fair skin and blond hair), medium (brown hair and a little tanned skin), tall (brunette with milky skin).
  • Determining contrast helps you choose the saturation of colors in your makeup. If the appearance has very low contrast, then rich, bright colors in the makeup will look quite artificial, whereas in the appearance with high contrast the only way do it for real bright makeup– this is to use not dark, but “active”, saturated colors. That’s why muted, delicate shades, and brunettes with white skin even in daytime You can easily wear black eyeliner or a dark smokey eye without it looking too pretentious.

Temperature

  • The temperature of flowers in appearance can be either warm or cold. You can determine it based on the color of your hair and eyebrows, skin, eyes, lips. In short, the rule is: the more in appearance golden shades, the warmer it is, the more blue it is, the colder it is.
  • Try to choose makeup colors based on the prevailing temperature. Then you are guaranteed a healthy, radiant look. Any color except orange can have both warm and cold shades, so the temperature of your appearance does not limit you in anything, but only helps you choose suitable shades.

But the fact is that using it to combine colors in the interior, wardrobe and makeup has some nuances. And since this article is about makeup techniques, as you already understand, let’s look at the use of the color wheel in makeup. Or rather, let's look at small, but very useful tricks perfect makeup- color in makeup.

Eyes are the mirror of a person's soul... And let's start with them. What color are your eyes? Surely you know that with the help of correctly selected shadows you can emphasize and make brighter color eye. And how can you make your eyes brighter?

Let's start in order: we use “complementary colors” - these are those colors that contrast with each other. On the color wheel they are opposite each other. What should I use them for? - To highlight your eye color.

How it works? - Let's look at the first example in detail. Let's say you have blue eyes ( blue eyes), orange is opposite blue on the color wheel. Orange color in the shadows - these are not only peach and coral, but also all shades of brown and beige.

It is worth noting that the first option (coral, peach shadows) suitable for girls With warm tone skin, and girls with cool skin tones should opt for beige and brown shadows.


And for owners of green eyes, shadows that contain red pigment (purple, lilac, burgundy, violet, etc.) are suitable. Please note that you should avoid cold shades Pink colour. Since they will make your eyes swollen and tear-stained, but at the same time, blush on the cheeks of this color is quite appropriate.


Brown eyes are emphasized by shadows blue shades, and those who are afraid to use blue shadows can be advised to use blue eyeliner or blue mascara.

But if you have black-brown eyes, it's better to use White color. And the lighting principle in the form of color shadows Ivory, golden beige, pastel yellow gold, etc.


And the last option grey eyes. Any eye shadow will suit the lucky owners of gray eyes, and with the help of the appropriate eye shadow colors you can get any “eye color”. If you want to “get” green eyes, use eyeshadow with red pigment. For getting brown eyes- shadows with blue pigment. Blues are warm neutral orange, beige, brown shadows.


Please note, if not correct use colors can have the opposite effect. So green mascara or eye shadow will enhance the redness of the eye vessels on the cornea. And lipstick purple shades will make teeth yellow, etc.

The next principle of using the color wheel in makeup is based on the same additional colors. But now let's take advantage of the fact that when mixing them we get a neutral grey colour, mixed on the skin, we get a gray-brown tint. This property is useful for hiding skin imperfections. Cover all redness on the face with green concealer, mixing it with the tone color. But we neutralize bruises orange. Yellow spots we will compensate purple, and purple circles under the eyes, respectively yellow etc.

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How to choose makeup colors

Seeing beautiful thing on the model from glossy magazine or spectacular makeup in a master class, any woman immediately strives to take the information on board and try it on herself. But in reality it turns out that makeup shades are not at all suitable for our skin tone and eye color. Just like the chosen colors of clothing do not emphasize natural shade hair or eyes. What to do, how to choose perfect color makeup and clothes for yourself? Let's try to understand this issue.

And here you are again making a mistake in choosing makeup or clothes. Why did it happen? Surely, the basic principle was violated: the easiest way is to choose the right one contrasting shade possible if you use a special “Color Wheel” or “Chromatic Wheel”.

Each of us is individual, and what suits one girl is completely unsuitable for another. And the chromatic circle is designed in such a way that any representative of the fair sex can, without further ado, choose the optimal color scheme in clothes and makeup.

The chromatic circle was invented by the artist Johannes Itten.

The first level - in the center there are 3 primary colors: red, yellow, blue.

The second level is obtained by mixing primary colors: red and yellow produce orange, yellow and blue produce green, red and blue produce violet.

The third level is obtained by mixing primary and secondary colors and shades.

To enhance one shade, you need to select the opposite color in the circle. If you combine colors located next to each other, they will absorb each other. In addition, when choosing shades, you need to pay attention to their “warmth” or “coldness”.

Warm colors - from yellow to red-violet.

Cool tones - from purple to yellow-green.

If chromatic shades are combined with white, they become more voluminous and deep. By combining chromatic tones with black, you achieve their saturation.

With the chromatic circle, everything seems to be clear. But what color is usually taken as a basis? What to consider when choosing the desired shade? It turns out there are 2 options for approach:

Choosing a shade based on eye color;
- choice of shade according to the color of clothing.

Selection of makeup colors

Before you start choosing a palette, you should study your own eye color and determine how best to highlight it. The easiest way to explain this is with an example: for women with blue eyes, peach and coral shades of eyeshadow are suitable for beige skin tones or beige-brown colors for ivory skin. Just look at the chromatic circle to choose your makeup and choose the shade you like.

The most suitable shades for a certain color eyes are shown in the image. Cold and warm colors depend on skin tone.

By the way, to choose a suitable, additional shade, it is not necessary to use only the principle of contrast. You can combine colors in groups of 3 and 4, using the principles presented in the figure. This will allow you to combine not 2, but more colors in makeup or clothing.

To determine your color type, consider the main characteristics using the “4 seasons” method.

Makeup color selection chart

Combination of makeup with selected clothes

If a certain color scheme dominates in clothing, it is necessary to take into account that the shade of lipstick, blush and nail polish should be combined with it.

It is believed that the brighter the palette in clothes, the brighter the lipstick should be. This rule does not apply to women with fair skin and blond hair, who should choose a lipstick of a calmer shade.

If the clothes are dominated by black or white shades, the makeup can be either calm or bright - it all depends on the event you are going to.

Having chosen red clothes, shades of makeup should be selected depending on whether it is cold or warm color suit. Red and purple outfits are in harmony with plum flowers, red-orange with yellow, brown, orange and their shades.

Soft brown tones in clothing go well with a variety of warm shades from light apricot to yellow-brown. Gray-brown shades harmonize with the cool pink-lilac and plum palette.

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Professional make-up consists not only of using a variety of brushes and other cosmetic devices, but also in the competent selection, according to Itten’s color wheel, of individual color range model, highlighting her beauty. In this article we will reveal the secrets harmonious combinations in makeup.

How to hide skin imperfections

Before applying decorative cosmetics, it is necessary to even out the skin tone and disguise its defects using special means. Thanks to contrasting colors neutralize each other, and when mixed, a neutral is obtained flesh tone. Since the red color in the Itten circle is opposed to green, it neutralizes redness, pimples and vascular network A green concealer mixed with the main tone will help on the skin.


To lighten up a little dark spots and give a bright shine yellowish skin face, apply a lilac-violet base on it, and highlight the cheekbones with a highlighter. When you need to remove darkening, redness and swelling under the eyes (both on the bottom and on the upper eyelid), apply yellow or peach concealer.


Bruises are a little more difficult because they all come in different shades:

Red, brown or purple are removed with a yellow corrector;
blue-gray - peach and orange.

The correct selection of blush according to Itten's color wheel makes the skin fresh and radiant. After masking skin defects, you need to even out your complexion tone and get rid of greasy shine. If you use only one foundation, it will make your complexion unnatural, so you can’t do without blush. They will help highlight the cheekbones and oval of the face and add volume. Blush is made with cream or powder texture in exclusively warm shades:
pink,
cherry,
plum,
beige,
peach

You also need to choose blush according to color rules.

Cannot be used more dark shade than a natural blush. To see its saturation, you need to lightly pinch the skin on your cheekbones.

Warm, luminous peach or beige blush is suitable for thin red- and blonde-haired women. light skin cold shade and blue eyes. Brown-eyed dark-skinned women with round face- cold plum and cherry with a slight addition of blue.

Because in the summer due to light tan the skin becomes darker, then summer blush should be a darker shade than winter blush.

Apply blush on top of foundation before applying powder with a brush or sponge to the cheeks, tip of the nose and chin.


How to choose eye makeup using Itten's color wheel

It has long been out of fashion to use eye shadow and eyeliner to match the color of your iris. Many makeup artists believe that this does not fully emphasize the beauty and clarity of the look, making it dull.

Dark purple shadows add chic expressiveness to green eyes.

This makeup option is ideal for creating a custom look for a professional photo shoot.


For green-eyed people, dark burgundy, lilac and purple shadows that contain red pigment suit them. Pink eyeshadow, eyeliner and pink eyeliner should be avoided as they will give a tear-stained and puffy look. It is easiest to choose a complimentary eyeshadow tone for black-brown eyes, since the opposite color of black is white. The lighter the shadows, the stronger the contrast.


Blue or green eyeliner and mascara, but decorative cosmetics in these colors can increase the redness of the eyes.

To emphasize the brightness and richness of light blue eyes, use coral or peach shadows.


For cool skin tones, beige-brown shadows are suitable - both glossy and matte textures.

Any shade of shadow will suit owners of gray eyes. With their help, you can visually change the shade of the iris.

Do you dream of green eyes? Use eyeshadow with red pigment.

To achieve an emerald tint to the pupils, apply light lilac eyeshadow.

You can darken gray eyes with dark shadows with blue pigment.

Do you want your pupils to become sky blue? Give preference to neutral, nude shades of eyeshadow - beige or brown, as well as the classic triad - orange, purple and green. These techniques are often used Hollywood makeup artists and stylists when actors cannot wear colored lenses. Also in trend are copper, red and bronze shadows, which give the pupils a bright turquoise shade and shine.

If you use exclusively cold tones in your makeup, your facial features will look as if they were artificial. To make your look warmer and more cheerful, it is recommended to apply golden shadows to the inner corners of your eyes.

To the owners of eyes walnut color Do not overuse warm shades, otherwise the look will seem too heavy and annoying. You can highlight the lower eyelid thin line green or blue pencil.


What you need to know about choosing the right lipstick?

Main selection criteria decorative means for lips:
lip shape - dark colors(especially matte ones) visually make lips smaller, and light satin glosses give them additional volume;
skin tone - more preferable for cool skin tones light lipsticks and shine, and when warm (dark and dark skin) - bright and dark;
hair color - lipstick should be one tone lighter than hair;
eye makeup - it is desirable that the lipstick color belongs to the same group as the eye shadow. If they warm shade, then the lipstick should be warm.

Sequins and mother-of-pearl are no longer in trend, and they don’t suit everyone.

Girls with fair and brown hair With fair skin and green eyes, coral, salmon and beige lipsticks are suitable in combination with brown, peach, bronze and golden shades.

Black- and brown-eyed women with fair skin suit raspberry, plum and bright pink tones of lip glosses and lipsticks.

For fair-skinned blondes, it is better to focus on the eyes, using a contrasting combination of colors of the classic triad (blue, yellow, orange), and will have to abandon bright lipstick. In this case, gentle ones are preferable. matte shades- terracotta or apricot, for evening make-up - transparent pink. Stylists advise red-haired girls to use translucent lipsticks neutral colors- beige, caramel, light pink.

Brown-haired women should avoid cold shades of pink in lip makeup, and opt for red, brown and wine-colored lipsticks. Carrot, burgundy and red shades suit fair-skinned brunettes very well.

Experiment with colors. Using Itten's circle, create new original combinations and harmonious make-up according to your preferred range and style of clothing - and you will always look irresistible!

The properties of colors to enhance and highlight each other are very often used in makeup. Especially large field for experimenting with color in eye makeup.

Exist different ways matching the color of shadows to the color of the eyes, but the most popular are the use of colors related to the color of the eyes and the use of colors that are complementary or split complementary to the color of the eyes. Today I will give examples of myself simple makeup using only one eyeshadow color.



Important Note : When using eyeshadow, make sure that the undertone color of the eyeshadow matches the undertone of your skin, otherwise you will get the effect of puffy eyes.

Eye shadow palettes from the book "Makeup in 5 Minutes" by Ray Morris






Interestingly, the border between transitional eye shades (all shades of green and gray) is very blurred , so green and gray eyes may change color slightly depending on makeup and clothing. For example, blue-green eyes may appear warm blue (color sea ​​wave) or cool greens. Warm green eyes may appear light brown (hazel), etc. With the help of makeup, you can slightly change the color of chameleon eyes in one direction or another.

How it works

1) Complementary (opposite) colors
Complementary colors enhance each other, so next to a complementary color, the eye color will become brighter and more defined (i.e., more blue or greener or more brown)

Let's take a couple copper -aquamarine (blue-green)


Despite the photoshop, the principle of action is visible - the colors reinforce each other.

Let's try without Photoshop and vice versa - my eye color is dark grey-blue-green, moreover, skewed green




Let's try to emphasize the color with copper shadows and make the eyes bluer

2) Related colors
Similar colors tend to adapt to each other, so in the vicinity of related colors the eye color may also seem brighter. However, makeup artists usually do not recommend using tone-on-tone eye shadows (you risk getting the appearance of a color spot that is unclear in outline) - it is better to use shadows slightly darker or lighter. Lighter shadows will make your eyes appear darker; darker shadows will make your eyes appear lighter.

Again, using related colors you can adjust the color a little:

The girl's eye color is probably gray-blue or gray-green, but when using turquoise eyeliner, her eyes appear turquoise.

Now let’s “test it for ourselves” again:


Light green: eye color appears very dark

Dark green - it was very difficult to choose a darker shade - the eyes are enough rich color, however, I think the difference is noticeable compared to the previous picture - the eyes seem slightly lighter.


Have fun experimenting with color!


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