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What material are shoes made from? How to choose shoes made of genuine leather

Shoes made of genuine leather, by default, are considered to be of the highest quality. For its production, various animals are used - pork, calf, ostrich, deer, etc.

The cost of products differs depending on what types of material the shoes are made from. So, for example, various budget products are made from inexpensive pigskin, exclusive products are made from crocodile leather, soft and durable calfskin is used to make branded products.

Each variety has its own characteristics and advantages, based on which the material for sewing a particular pair is chosen.

Types of leather

Pork

The material is not soft, flexible, it is rough and is not used for the manufacture of exquisite model products. At the same time, it is one of the cheapest and most durable types, which makes it possible to produce popular and inexpensive economy-class products. Also, the advantages of pigskin include its high water resistance.

Pressed

The material is produced from crushed waste leather shoes. After grinding, the pieces turn into dust, then a special fastening agent is added and pressed into sheets. Shoes made from this material have some of the properties of natural leather - they are hygroscopic, allow your feet to breathe, but are inferior in strength to products made from natural materials.

These products are budget products.

Cattle

This type includes cow, bull and calf leather. As a rule, a pair of mid-price segments is produced from this material. High-quality and affordable products are made from very durable and reliable cow leather. These shoes are durable and have an optimal balance between product quality and cost. The only caveat is that the skin of an adult animal usually has defects from insect bites, so sometimes minor traces of damage can be seen on the product.

Ox leather is rougher and less expensive than cow leather. The skin of a young calf is somewhat inferior in strength to adult animals, but in terms of softness and flexibility it gives a significant head start, and, moreover, it usually does not have such damage. The highly elastic soft material lends itself well to all types of processing and can be used for branded models. You can often see shoes with a recognizable snake or crocodile pattern in stores at an inexpensive price. These are actually embossed calfskin leather shoes.

Sheep

Optimal for making model products. Distinguished by its softness and delicacy, it is susceptible to weather conditions, so shoes made from it require careful wearing.

Deer

Expensive, high-quality products are made from deer leather. The material retains heat well, is wear-resistant and durable. These shoes are not only exquisitely beautiful, but also incredibly comfortable - even in dress shoes you will feel like you are wearing slippers. Deer suede is especially popular in the manufacture of boots and clothing.

Reptiles

The characteristic pattern of reptile skin gives the products an original look. But this is not the only value of such shoes. The material is very strong, wear-resistant and durable, so shoes made from it can be classified as premium. Products made from alligator are especially prized and can cost several thousand dollars. These products are exclusive options.

Premium-class products are made from crocodile, and caiman has the most affordable price. The latter, unlike alligators and crocodiles, is quite tough and inferior to them both in aesthetics and in durability and quality. The advantage of caiman shoes is their attractive price.

Snake skin is slightly less expensive than crocodile skin, but also belongs to the premium class.

Ostrich

The products can be called piece goods; they all belong to luxury models. Soft leather makes it very comfortable to wear.

Types of leather depending on processing technology

Shoe manufacturers produce products from polished, embossed, laminated leather, etc. What types of leather are made from depends on the purpose of the product.

Nubuck

Natural nubuck is sanded leather. Thanks to grinding, the surface of the products is velvety and soft. Matte material has a light absorption effect and looks expensive and presentable. It is recommended to wear shoes made of natural nubuck in dry weather.

If nubuck is impregnated with a special agent, this material is called nubuck oil. Products made from it are more unpretentious to wear and durable.

Suede

Produced using fat tanning technology. During the processing process, the smooth front surface is removed from the skins of animals (mainly young calves and deer). Sometimes suede is processed from the inside (bakhtarmyana), sometimes from the front.

Characteristic features of the material are high hygienic properties, increased ductility and softness. Suede shoes are comfortable to wear and resistant to water penetration.

Velours

A type of polished leather. For the production of velor, the skins of goat, chevrette, opoyka (calf up to 6 months), and outgrowth are used. The material is processed from the inside, therefore, as a rule, animal skins with numerous defects on the front side are used.

The hairiness of velor resembles suede, but its properties are inferior to it. Velor shoes are afraid of water and dirt, and their dimensional stability leaves much to be desired.

Varnish

Made from chevro, opika, goat leather. The surface of the leather is coated with varnish or polyurethane resins. The result is a very smooth, shiny lacquered surface. Shoes made from it require special care and handling. It is not recommended to wear patent leather shoes or boots with patent leather tops in rainy weather; heat above 25 degrees and sub-zero temperatures are also contraindicated.

Shoes made of genuine leather are an excellent option for any season. In addition, these are also environmentally friendly products, since they do not contain chemicals.

The Russian company Ralf Ringer is already 17 years old. It has three of its own factories (in Moscow, Vladimir and Zaraysk), the largest distribution network in Russia (over 1,700 stores) and the largest production volume of men's shoes in the country. In total, she sold about 1.35 million pairs in 2012.

Shoe company Ralf Ringer

Location

Moscow city

opening date

1996

employees

3000 people

Annual turnover

2 billion rubles

Before production begins, future shoes go through a long journey. A team of brand managers, based on global fashion trends, market analysis and sales results of the previous collection, creates technical specifications. Based on it, fashion designers come up with a collection, which they show to the assortment department and company managers at the draft council. Next, models are selected that, in the general opinion, will be in demand on the market. For these models, a technological map and patterns are created, according to which the first samples are created in the experimental workshop. The completed collection is again shown to the expert council, which examines each style and model step by step, sends them to fashion designers for revision and approves the final assortment. Only now the collection is presented to buyers from various stores. The models they choose go into mass production.

The factory uses leather from four countries: from Russia - for rough men's boots, from Italy - for model classics, from Argentina - for semi-sports shoes, and from France comes highly selected raw materials, which are used in the production of the most expensive models.

The pads take into account the structural features of the Russian foot. Our shoes are wider and fuller than those of Europeans, so classic Italian shoes are often not suitable for our men. The width of the Russian foot can be not only a genetic feature, but also a consequence of orthopedic flat feet acquired in childhood from uncomfortable shoes.

In this workshop, parts of future boots are cut out. It is specially located on the first floor, because the presses for cutting out parts are very heavy - they simply could not withstand the ceiling.

This is how the insoles are cut. Each shoe (with rare exceptions, moccasins, for example, without a main insole), in order to maintain shape stability, must contain an insole made of shoe cellulose - a very dense, thick material. It, like the bones in the human body, creates the frame of the shoe.

On the table there are patterns tied with twine for a shoe of a certain style and size. Each such part is inserted into a cutter, which, under a press, cuts out the corresponding parts from the material.

This is a preparatory workshop where previously cut parts are processed. They are painted over, set on fire with a special blowtorch, bent, and marked with a silver pencil. Then comes the marking of the parts: on each shoe there is information about the type of shoe, color, size and lot number.

An important nuance when creating a boot is that it should not have pronounced scars or seams that could injure the leg. To prevent shoes from rubbing, the edges of some parts are ground down. To control the thickness of the skin, use a thickness gauge (pictured).

In the workshop where laser perforation is carried out, there is always a strong smell of burnt leather. According to the pattern specified by the program, the laser burns neat “holes” in the skin.

An automatic belt runs through the workshop, along which boxes of products travel. In order for the specialist to perform his operation, the master places the box on the tape, presses the number of the corresponding specialist on the remote control, and the box is sent to him. When the operation is completed, the specialist returns the box with the product to the master, and he forwards it to the next operator.

In this workshop, the main insoles are made, which are then attached to the upper blank, and then to the sole. The insole parts (main and heel) cut out on the first floor are glued together.

This machine makes a depression in the insole into which the arch support is then inserted.

The next steps involve shaping the boot. To do this, first an insole made of shoe cellulose is nailed to the last with three nails. Then, in special machines, the toe and heel-heel parts of the shoe are tightened and glued onto the last. The white threads on the bobbin in the photo are polyurethane glue that heats up inside the machine.

The shoe goes through a special sauna, where it is subjected to moisture-heat treatment, as a result of which it finally takes the shape of a last. Then the workpiece is used to prepare the attachment to the sole: the drawing is washed off, the boot is pre-primed and polished, and the excess of the tightening edge is sanded using a coarse abrasive.

Next, the last is removed from the shoe, insoles are inserted into it, treated with cream, tinted with water-repellent paints, additionally sanded, and steamed with a special mini-iron, which straightens the inner toe. The shoes are also treated with carnauba wax, which is considered the most expensive material in shoe cosmetics. It is thanks to him that boots in stores look so sparkling.

To properly form the top of the shoe, special industrial laces are used on the last, which are finally replaced with regular ones.

The finished boot is then checked to ensure it matches the sample. If everything is good, they put a paper ball in it, wrap it and put it in boxes. The future collection is always presented in the showroom (pictured below) at the factory, as a sample.

More than 40 people work on each of our boots. As a rule, it contains from 40 to 60 parts, each operation is performed by a separate worker. In total, the factory produces about 3,000 pairs of shoes per day.

Shoes are one of the oldest accessories of human clothing. Its history dates back thousands of years. People started wearing shoes a long time ago, back in prehistoric times. At first, apparently, these were simply pieces of animal skins or skins with which our distant ancestors wrapped their legs, trying to protect them from cold and dampness, from bruises and cuts. Later, pieces of skins or skins began to be sewn together, giving them the shape of a leg.

In ancient Rus', people who made shoes were called usmoshvetsy: “usma” is the ancient Russian name for leather. Around the 11th century. the word "shoemaker" appeared.

Currently, sewing operations make up no more than a quarter of all operations in the manufacture of shoes, but according to tradition, shoe production is still called tailoring, and the main workshops of shoe factories are called sewing.

The shoes that you wear every day - boots, boots, shoes, slippers, sandals, etc. - are called household shoes. In addition, there are special shoes: industrial, sports, military, etc.

Different shoes cover the foot differently and have very different shapes.

Each type of shoe is assembled from a large number of parts. For example, a typical boot consists of 9 leather upper parts, 6 fabric lining parts and 9 lower parts.

Shoes should be durable, light, beautiful and, most importantly, comfortable.

First of all, the shoes must match the length of the foot. To do this, the length of the shoe should slightly exceed the length of the foot, and have a margin or allowance. After all, our foot easily supports the weight of our body because it has a springy, arched shape. When we walk or stand, the foot can lengthen up to 1.4 cm and expand up to 1.7 cm. Therefore, if there is no reserve in the shoe, the foot quickly gets tired when walking. The amount of reserve depends on the shape and purpose of the shoes. Thus, the stock of winter boots, which are usually worn on thick woolen socks, should be greater than that of slippers or sandals, which are worn in the summer with a thin stocking or sock, or even just on bare feet.

The length of the shoe is determined by the distance along the axis of the insole from the extreme point of the heel to the extreme point of the toe. This distance - shoe size - is measured in units, special units of length (one unit is equal to 2/3 cm). The shoe number is determined by the number of stitches. If, for example, the length of the insole is 36 lengths (24 cm), then the shoe is assigned the number 36. This system for determining shoe sizes was adopted in our Soviet Union. It is called stichmassova. But there are other systems: metric (a length of 1 cm is taken as a number), inch (a unit of length is taken as 1/3 of an English inch, i.e. 8.467 mm).

Footwear can be household (boots, shoes, sandals, etc.) and special (industrial, sports, military, etc.).

In the Soviet Union, shoes are manufactured from sizes 10 to 48. The smallest - from sizes 10 to 16 - is intended for babies who have just learned to walk, and is called “booties”, and from sizes 17 to 21 - “hussars”.

When choosing shoes, you should also take into account its fullness (height, girth), which is designated conventionally by a number corresponding to the size of the widest part of the foot. The fullness of shoes is determined according to tables obtained as a result of mass measurements of the feet of people of very different builds. The fullness number along with the length number is placed on the lining of the shoe and on its sole near the heel. Shoes of various sizes go on sale according to so-called sizes, i.e. with a certain percentage of different numbers in each batch.

Fabrics and wood, rubber and cardboard have long been used in the production of shoes along with leather. Recently, the shoe industry has widely used artificial materials produced synthetically in chemical factories and factories. These materials not only do not worsen, but often even improve the quality of shoes and at the same time make them much cheaper, since they are inexpensive.

Here are two pairs of beautiful women's shoes. Some of them are leather, others are made of artificial materials and cost 3 times less than the first, although they look no worse. What's the matter?

The history of these shoes is quite long. Their upper is made of synthetic rubber. This is a very cheap raw material. However, it was not so easy to obtain material from it suitable for the production of shoes. The fact is that the “skin” made of synthetic rubber did not allow air to pass through, and the foot in such shoes could not “breathe”. After a long search, a solution was found. Crushed potassium chloride was added to the rubber mixture, then the resulting mass was applied in a thin layer to the felt. After heat treatment, the “skin” was washed with water; potassium chloride dissolved in water, and many pores appeared on the “skin”.

What are the soles of these shoes made of? It's lighter than cork! Its specific gravity is only 0.1-0.2 g/cm², while that of leather is 1. The new microporous sole, currently produced in the USSR, is elastic and durable. The foot does not get tired when walking on such a sole. This happens because a special substance, a blowing agent, is introduced into the rubber mixture from which the sole is made. During the vulcanization of the material at high temperatures, it releases gas: expanding, this gas creates many tiny bubbles, thus forming “air rubber”.

Very high demands are placed on the material from which shoes are made. First of all, it is unacceptable for him to be harsh; After all, when worn, shoes constantly bend on the foot, and a person should not spend a lot of effort on this. In addition, the material must have the ability to stretch, otherwise shoes cannot be made from it. And, finally, it must well absorb the moisture released by the foot (and 0.5-1 G is released per hour) and release it to the external environment, i.e. evaporate.

Shoe manufacturing is divided into the following main operations: 1) cutting the material, 2) preparing parts for assembly, 3) assembling and fastening the workpiece (the workpiece is the upper of the shoe, sewn from individual parts), 4) molding the workpiece, 5) attaching the bottom parts to the workpiece and 6) finishing of finished shoes.

Shoe parts are cut out from basic materials (sheets of leather, cardboard, artificial leather, fabric) on special presses using cutters (knives). The steel blades of the cutters are made in the form of a contour closed in the shape of the part. The material is placed on the press base plate, the desired cutter is installed on it, then the press impact plate is lowered.

At first glance, cutting the material does not seem particularly difficult. In reality, it requires very high qualifications from the employee. The cutters must be placed on a piece of leather so that after cutting there are as few scraps as possible. The cost of the shoes depends on this.

The most important parts, for example vamps (a part of the upper of a shoe), are cut out from the central, stronger and thicker part of the leather, and the secondary ones are placed along the edges as close to one another as possible. In addition, each piece must be positioned in the direction in which the leather stretches (which, as you will see, is very important when shaping the workpiece). The difficulty also lies in the fact that from each leather it is necessary to cut out a strictly specified number of parts - a set.

When preparing shoe parts for assembly, mainly the edges of these parts are processed: they are cut off, painted, bent, etc. The soles and insoles are leveled in thickness and their surface is polished. Leather heels are assembled from individual plates and molded under high pressure in a press.

How many names have already been invented to refer to artificial leather: artificial leather, leatherette, PVC leather and many others. Recently another new word has appeared - eco-leather. In essence, all of the listed words mean artificial leather, but it is interesting that there are still differences between artificial materials. Any artificial leather is a polymer film coating applied to a knitted, fabric or non-woven fabric. The most common film-forming polymer is polyvinyl chloride (PVC), the top layer of which is not breathable. PVC is found in vinyl seat upholstery in trains, buses, trams, cafes, clinics, kitchens, etc. The eco-leather film is formed by polyurethane. The mechanism of its chemical synthesis is much more complex than the synthesis of PVC. All the required properties are established precisely during the chemical synthesis of the polymer, therefore, no additives - plasticizers - are needed. During operation, nothing comes out of the polymer film, which is why the name appeared - ecological leather, or eco-leather. Genuine leather is animal skin that has undergone special processing. To make a product made from genuine leather, specialists first soak the hide to get rid of dirt, salt and fats, followed by a liming phase (dissolving the hair or weakening the connection between the hair and the dermis), then tanning and, finally, dyeing and chemical treatment.

Most people prefer any products made from genuine leather (leather bags, jackets, furniture) and if not for their high cost, they would buy them more willingly, since genuine leather is a fairly durable material that can withstand both very high and very high temperatures. low temperatures. Artificial leather is still associated with cheapness and fragility. But today, thanks to modern technologies, it is possible to produce high-quality artificial materials. Now they can no longer be compared with artificial leather, but with genuine leather. Eco-leather is a modern material created to ensure maximum comfort. Eco-leather is a high-tech material, “breathable” artificial leather without PVC. Air permeability was achieved due to the formation of micropores penetrating the film, so it allows air and water vapor to pass through, but does not allow water to pass through. The breathability of eco-leather is tens and sometimes hundreds of times higher than that of any, even very expensive, genuine leather. The fact is that in Russia, as well as throughout the world, full-grain furniture genuine leather in most cases has artificial embossing and is treated with acrylic emulsions, after which there can be no question of the breathability of natural leather. Due to such processing, the breathability properties are practically reduced to zero and furniture made from treated leather becomes less comfortable for humans. In professional circles, such skin is called “skin with a corrected face.” Leathers with a natural, “native” face (“merey”), without artificial embossing and artificial acrylic impregnations, are very expensive; they are called “leathers with aniline finishing” (i.e. they are only painted with aniline dyes). It is paradoxical that the consumer, not knowing these nuances, chooses skin with a corrected, but very beautiful face, without scars, pockmarks and other blemishes. “Aniline leather” accounts for less than 1% of the Russian market. Eco-leathers are superior to natural leathers in breathability, but are inferior to them in terms of hygroscopicity (absorption of moisture from the air). Polyurethane (PU) itself is a class of polymers with exceptionally high wear resistance (an example is heels) and frost resistance (down to -35 C). The presence of these properties is due to the high mobility of the spatial network of polyurethanes, their ability to undergo restructuring under the influence of mechanical influences or temperature changes. Polyurethanes are even capable of “self-healing” damage to the polymer network caused by deformation. These properties of polyurethanes are largely due to the fact that they contain “functional groups” of atoms that are unique to natural leather. Eco-leather is warm to the touch, just like natural leather. If you sit naked on a sofa upholstered in vinyl or natural leather, you will definitely sweat. If the sofa is upholstered in eco-leather, then sitting on it is almost as comfortable as if it were upholstered in furniture fabric. The thermal conductivity of both natural leather and eco-leather is almost the same. As for the organoleptic properties (i.e. how pleasant the material is to the touch), then, of course, genuine leather with aniline finishing is higher than most types of eco-leather. Corrected leathers feel quite comparable to eco-leathers. Eco-leather is a hypoallergenic material, unlike natural leather, which can cause allergenic reactions. Eco-leather is a modern synthetic high-tech material that must be treated with care, just like natural leather. When caring for eco-leather, like natural leather, it requires compliance with certain rules, which you can familiarize yourself with by taking a reminder from the seller. Conclusions: 1) Eco-leather consists of a polyurethane film, and genuine leather is made from animal skin. 2) The air permeability of eco-leather is higher than the air permeability of natural leather coated with acrylic emulsions, but lower than the air permeability of natural leather with aniline finishing. 3) Eco-leather, like natural leather, is wear-resistant and frost-resistant, and is also capable of “self-healing” deformations. 4) Both eco-leather and genuine leather are warm to the touch, but bare parts of the body will not sweat if you sit on eco-leather, unlike leather. 5) Eco-leather is more pleasant to feel than leather coated with acrylic emulsions, but less pleasant than expensive leather with aniline finishing. 6) Eco-leather is a hypoallergenic material, unlike natural leather, which can cause allergenic reactions. 7) Both eco-leather and natural leather must be treated with care. Both types of materials require approximately the same care.

When choosing shoes, we often ask a question. How long will these shoes last me? Will the shoes get wet? Are these shoes suitable for every day at work, for a walk, etc.? ...

In this article we will tell you what materials are available for making shoes, as well as linings. Advantages and features of these materials. Let's learn to distinguish between these types of materials.

Smooth skin

Tanned animal skin. It can be the skin of lamb, kid, cow, horse, pig or any other animal (usually the skin of cows and calves is used, in about 75% of cases), which through chemical processing (tanning) is transformed into a product that satisfies our needs. Tanning makes the leather breathable, and special treatment subsequently ensures a long period of wearing the product (does not deteriorate like any natural product), and also makes the leather softer, giving it the ability not to tear when impacted, which is important when using products.

Advantages: Breathable, stretches well, more hygienic than synthetics.

Embossed leather

Embossing imitates textiles or other textures. Embossing is performed on the front surface of the leather; it helps hide possible defects on the surface of the skin. It is performed on a special press, where a design is applied under pressure; exposure to heat makes the skin darker.

Advantages: The same as in genuine leather + Due to the applied embossing, creases do not form.

Glossy leather

Has a shiny front surface. The personal layer is processed with glass rollers at high speed.

Advantages: Elegant look, unlike smooth skin.

Suede

Soft “velvet” to the touch material for shoe uppers. During tanning, the leather passes through a cutting machine, where long, very sharp knives separate the leather into the front and back parts. Leather can be processed in this way on both sides to form suede.

Advantages: Exquisite appearance; Smooth skin allows air to pass through better; soft and light; On suede, creases form on less than smooth leather.

However, suede that has not been treated with special water-repellent agents is afraid of moisture and is not recommended to be worn in wet weather.

Nubuck

Chrome-tanned leather for shoe uppers and haberdashery, obtained by polishing the front surface of the leather with abrasives with fine grain sizes to give it a refined appearance. The abrasive treatment process makes the smooth surface of the skin velvety and soft.

Advantages: Lightweight, soft, if a scratch appears, it can be rubbed off. Without additional treatment, it is not recommended to wear in wet weather.

Oiled nubuck

Nubuck, which after sanding was impregnated with an oil-based substance.

Advantages: Impregnated nubuck has a more “antique” look, its slightly greasy surface gives the shoe an originality; It gets wet a little less than regular nubuck.

Polished leather

Chrome-tanned leather for shoe uppers and haberdashery, with varnish coating (polyurethane varnish) or duplication with varnish film. Dries in complete absence of dust.

Advantages: Shoes made of patent leather are trendy in every season; they are afraid of low temperatures (may crack)

Faux leather

Artificial leather is a multi-layer system consisting of an impregnated or unimpregnated fibrous base (fabric, non-woven or knitted fabric) with a front polymer film coating and finishing depending on the purpose.

Advantages: Does not allow water to pass through, holds its shape well, is inexpensive, has low hygienic properties when worn for a long time.

Textile

Woven and non-woven materials, both from synthetic fiber and from natural fiber with synthetic additives.

Advantages: Easy to clean, breathable, keeps its shape well. A huge variety of textures and colors.

How to distinguish shoes with faux leather uppers from leather shoes?

This is difficult to do in finished shoes. If the edges of the upper parts are trimmed (stitched in the trim) and not folded, then threads or fibers from the base of the artificial leather may be visible at their ends. Natural and artificial leather have different thermal conductivity characteristics, so when we place our palm on a leather part, we instantly feel warmth, and on a faux leather part, coolness. During wear, the upper of a shoe made of genuine leather is deformed, adapting to the contours of a particular foot, while the upper of an artificial leather shoe, as a rule, retains the shape of the last.

Types of substrate materials

Leather hygiene, good air and vapor permeability, comfortable material for the foot.