Fashion and style of the Second World War. Fashion and style of the Second World War Clothing style of the 40s

Historical events, politics and economics are the real factors in the development of fashion. Not designers and personal preferences determine how modern fashionistas will look, but history. A vivid example was the fashion of the 40s, when the lack of fabrics, the decrease in the work of light industry and the threat to the life of mankind pushed fashion back to the very last rows. However, today such outfits are considered one of the most sophisticated, as if symbolizing the femininity that the fair sex, who lived in that difficult era, preserved. Why are practical outfits that have become part of the fashion history of the 40s so attractive?

Fashion and history

The defining event in all spheres of life in 1940-1946 was the Second World War. It radically changed people all over the world, influenced their way of life, and, accordingly, fashion and attitude towards it. In this era, it was not the beauty of clothing that was important, but the urgent need for practicality and minimalism. It was at this time that the consumption of fabrics for manufactured clothes was deliberately reduced. Details are thought out that will help to act quickly and practically in any situation. The war pushed designers to new lines and silhouettes: pencil skirts, small hats, later giving way to even thinner scarves, as much as possible in keeping with the spirit of the times.

Innovations

After learning about the declaration of war, many leading designers created models that fit the lifestyle of ordinary people. There were sewn coats with hoods and pajamas "for shelters", comfortable low-speed shoes, voluminous bags in which you could carry everything you needed, including gas masks. Instead of leather, shoes are now made from straw, felt, hemp, leatherette, cellophane and wood details. It was these components, created at that difficult time, that determined the features of the fashion history of the 40s of the XX century.

Fashion inventions of the era

One of the most popular and revolutionary materials created during this period was nylon. At first, stockings were created from it, and later underwear. Its wide distribution was facilitated by the shortage of strong natural fabrics, since such materials of light industry were used on a large scale for the needs of the front.

Since 1939, a ban was introduced on the use of silk, leather and cotton in non-military needs. Natural fabrics were used to make parachute fabric, maps, and bullet and shell cases. Women's clothing was now produced in small quantities, and was also distinguished by minimalism, it was sewn without the frills and decorative ornaments familiar to previous eras.

The fashion and style of 1940-1946 was marked by the fact that, due to the political and economic situation in the world, the roles of trendsetters were replayed. After the capture of Paris by the Nazi army, some designers emigrated to the United States, someone closed their boutiques and stopped working. One of those who left the fashion industry was the great couturier Coco Chanel.

Despite the fact that many designers refused to work in the new conditions, some fashion houses remained open. Lanvin, Balmain, Balenciaga, Rochas, Nina Ricci and many others now, according to Hitler's plans, had to sing of German beauty.

The style of the 40s under the influence of Nazi Germany has changed markedly. The ideal of female beauty now became a larger figure, athletic women who could take on their shoulders not only housework and raising children, but also hard work for the good of their country. Peasant and medieval German motifs appeared, straw hats, broad shoulders in jackets and dresses, etc.

The impact of scarcity on fashion

In conditions of a shortage of fabrics and the re-profiling of excess production, almost no one could afford it. People began to be provided with coupons for clothes, with which you can get only the necessary things in one or two copies: a coat, a pair of boots, two or three changes of underwear, a sweater, a skirt, a blouse, and so on. Everything was provided for the bare minimum.

It was from the fashion of the 1940s that second-hand shops and handmade clothing stores that became widespread in wartime began to appear. New types of home-made patchwork dresses appeared, which were new models sewn from worn out old things.

In conditions of austerity, women are beginning to get rid of unnecessary acquisitions of constantly deteriorating wardrobe items. Now no one wore stockings, which were increasingly difficult to get, but very easy to tear. Women began to shave their legs and draw a neat thin black arrow along the length of the entire leg. Fashion magazines offered unique "recipes" for creating jewelry from bottle caps and corks.

Style Features

The two main components of the fashion of the 40s were sports style and military. Came in khaki. In addition to it, rather simple colors were used, almost without patterns: black, blue, gray, which could sometimes be used in a variation of a polka dot print or a small flower.

It was very difficult to find shoes in general, the industry offered dermantine boots and shoes with wooden blocks and soles. But even such models were in huge deficit.

Knitted items and accessories, large pockets began to spread. Hats were rapidly decreasing. Hats gave way to scarves and kerchiefs, thin berets. Shyness faded into the background, now everyone thought about practicality.

Cosmetics practically disappeared from the shelves, women not only thought about makeup less and less, but also could not buy even the most ordinary things, such as lipstick or blush. The United States, not involved in the war, could afford excesses in the fashion elements of the time. And also in this country they began to produce powder and lipstick of various bright colors.

Role reversal

The German-occupied former fashion capital of the world was now subject to German fashion trends. In this regard, Paris ceased to occupy an unconditional position as a trendsetter. Its economic decline, mass emigration of beauty professionals and declining interest in trends meant that the power of American style began to grow. Now it was up to them to create their own fashion industry. The greatest interest was given to everyday practical outfits.

The hallmarks of the fashionable side of the American way of life were created: casual Californian style, business New York attire lines and new details of a functional university suit. Bold steps were taken by American designers towards a casual, practical and functional style. The legendary wool jersey was created, as well as tracksuits made from natural fabrics. The United States celebrated everyday life, the value of every day, and the beauty of functional, comfortable clothing.

After the war

While France and all of Europe were moving away from the long stagnation caused by the war, the United States began to develop its fashion industry with all its strength and vigor. American designers made an active contribution to post-war fashion, with a particular focus on sports and leisure clothing. The real boom fell on the bikini swimsuit, which broke all records of courage in front of an open body and its beauty. The swimsuit was named after the atoll in the United States where the atomic bomb was first tested.

However, America did not reign supreme for long. Already in 1947, Christian Dior appeared, who breathed a fresh dose of elegance and sophistication into the post-war world. He became the most popular designer of the 40s and 50s, creating his collection in the new look style.

In modern fashion

The retro style of the 40s with asceticism and at the same time femininity remains a prime example of elegance. The lines and silhouettes of the outfits of that time are emphatically simple, but extremely refined and practical. A minimum of fabrics is used, however, all elements of clothing are thin and airy. Deep necklines, graceful lines of pencil skirts, simple buttons on jackets, thin straps that emphasize the waistline and elegance - all these are the details of the fashion of the military era.

The style of the 1940s became a trend that repeated the lines and patterns in the collections of many famous designers in the autumn/winter 2009-2010 and 2011-2012 seasons. Gucci, Prada, Jean Paul Gaultier, Donna Karan turned to elegance, which sought to emphasize the fragility of the weaker sex. Spring/Summer 2013 saw a resurgence of 1940s fashion with a reappearance of straight lines and silhouettes, high collar shirts and jackets, elongated pencil skirts and functional shirt dresses.

World War II affected all spheres of human life and was reflected in the fashion of that era. Everything felt like savings.

Natural expensive fabrics were replaced with artificial ones. Styles have become simpler. The choice of clothes of the 40s was small. All European women wore similar clothes.

Designers in France, the USA and England focused on convenience and practicality. Coupons were given out for clothes, second-hand shops appeared. Women sewed and altered things on their own. Fashion was divided into pre-war and post-war.

The style of the 40s in clothing is simple and practical. Warm coats with a hood, pajamas, corduroy suits, voluminous bags, low-heeled shoes, straight skirts to the knees came into fashion. Women often wore trousers, and not only for a walk.

Military was considered the basis of the style. Strict and practical styles prevailed, soft colors (blue, green, khaki, gray, burgundy, brown), fabrics with small patterns, without lush decor. The striped print was popular. Denim material, cowboy hats, boots, checkered fabric, Indian and Mexican ornaments appear in the USA.

At this time, natural materials are being replaced by new artificial materials. One of these was nylon. Stockings and underwear are sewn from it. Only in German-occupied Paris did clothes remain elegant and beautiful. Expensive fabrics were used, a lot of decor (folds, bow draperies, etc.).

There were fewer changes in men's fashion. The jackets became narrower, without buttons and additional decor, the trousers did not have arrows and cuffs, they became shorter and a little narrower. An overcoat was used as a coat, later it became shortened, hats were worn less often.

In the late 40s, wide trousers, suspenders and jackets with shoulder pads entered the youth fashion. The older generation wears tight trousers and jackets, a bowler hat.

Women's wardrobe of the 40s

The fashion of the 1940s was subject to the strict requirements of wartime. Often used dense fabrics for tailoring. Shirt dresses, women's white shirts of a simple cut became popular.

Dresses had a sporty cut, a row of buttons down to the waist, a narrow skirt with several pleats at the back, gathers at the waist, shirt-type sleeves and cuffs. A common silhouette: broad shoulders, a belted waist and narrow hips. Shoulder pads, belts with a buckle were used. In one product, several shades and different types of material could be combined.

Festive outfits were distinguished by femininity, had a flared skirt, folds, assemblies, draperies. Sundresses and overalls, under which they wore a shirt or sweater, became popular.

Sundresses and skirts were complemented with jackets. Outerwear had a militaristic look. Short single-breasted or double-breasted coats were considered relevant.

At the end of the decade, corsets, voluminous long skirts, blouses with loose sleeves and flounces returned to fashion. Christian Dior became a popular designer. Creating romantic outfits, he returned grace, femininity, and elegance to clothes. Collections quickly sold out.

Accessories and shoes

Among the shoes, models with low heels and wedges were popular. Products were made from suede, fabric and other materials. The skin was used less frequently, it went to the needs of the army. The sole was made of wood. Only at the end of the decade did they appear.

Graceful hats left the wardrobe, wide-brimmed hats, scarves (they were often tied like turbans), scarves, fur boas, and berets appeared.

Shoulder bags with long straps. The waist was emphasized with a wide belt with a metal buckle. Gloves were a necessary accessory.

How to create a look in the style of the 40s

To create a themed bow, follow the advice of stylists:

• Styles are concise and restrained.
• Wide shoulder line, use of shoulder pads.
• knee length.
• Shirt dresses with patch pockets
• A minimum of decorations and decor.
• Lack of ruffles, lace, frills, bows.
• Waist emphasized by a massive belt.
• Clothes in soft colors.
• From prints - a cage, peas, stripes, a small flower.
• High-waisted wide leg trousers and overalls.
• White cuffs and collars.
• Shoes with cork wedges or low heels.
• Nylon stockings.

Even in difficult times, women try to emphasize beauty with the help of clothes. Many styles of post-war fashion are still popular today.

The Soviet fashion of the 1940s, as well as the European one, was dictated not by fashion houses, but by the conditions that prevailed in all countries. During the Second World War, fabrics became scarce and the use of silk, leather and cotton was banned, unless it was for military purposes. This led to the fact that in the fashion of the 40s there were practically no decorative elements and other details that required the use of additional fabric, minimalism dominated. The main clothing styles of such a difficult period were sports style and.

As for the color scheme, it did not differ in its diversity, the most popular colors were black, gray, blue, khaki. The most common elements in clothing were a pencil skirt, a shirt dress and white collars and cuffs. Shoes became a huge deficit in the fashion of the 40s. Only leatherette shoes with wooden soles were produced. Hats were replaced in the forties by scarves, berets and shawls.

German fashion of the 40s

After the occupation of Paris by the Nazis, many of the designers emigrated, some simply closed their boutiques and left the fashion scene, among them Coco Chanel. Hitler decides to leave Paris as the capital of fashion, which must now work for the German elite. In the 40s, fashion succumbed to the influence of Nazi culture. Floral prints, plaid suits, embroidery on blouses and straw hats are in fashion. At the height of the war, clothes and shoes are in short supply, so women start saving and making their own clothes.

In the post-war period, the fashion industry is slowly moving away from the shock, and fashion designers are concentrating on clothing for sports and leisure. In 1947, a new star of the fashion industry lights up in Paris - Christian Dior. He shows the world his fashion collection in NewLook style. Dior brings elegance and grace back into fashion and becomes the most popular fashion designer of the late 40s and early 50s.

The world was on the verge of World War II. The militarization of society once again had an impact on fashion. As well as during the First World War, the silhouettes of clothing began to change noticeably. Since the late 1930s, padded shoulders have become the main style-forming detail, increasing every year. In the 1940s, massive shoulder pads were a must for both women and men. fashion clothes. In addition, details appear in the clothes that are characteristic of the military style and sports direction - patch pockets, coquettes and deep folds on the back, straps and shoulder straps, in fashion cinched waist. Women's skirts are becoming shorter than they were in the 1930s, with slightly flared and pleated designs predominating.

In the European women's fashion In the 1940s, elements of the Tyrolean-Bavarian costume and Caribo-Latin and Spanish motifs are very popular. Lantern sleeves, characteristic of Tyrolean and Bavarian dresses, Tyrolean hats, reminiscent of hunting, Andalusian polka dots, small bolero jackets, miniature hats, in the style of Spanish bullfighters, Basque berets, turbans like those of Cuban workers from sugarcane plantations are in fashion.

In 1940 the Soviet fashion close to European. Politicians fought for spheres of influence and divided the world among themselves, taking away territories from some states and giving them to others, and fashion, oddly enough, benefited from this cruel process, once again proving that it is part of the global world process, and it does not need borders. Thanks to the annexation of Western Belarus, Western Ukraine, which were part of Poland, to the USSR, the return of Bessarabia, which at that moment was part of Romania, Vyborg, which was the territory of Finland, the Baltic countries, in the Soviet space there was an update and expansion of such a concept as fashion.

For the USSR, states in which light industry was quite highly developed in the field of fashion were a kind of fresh blood stream, Soviet people received greater access to information about world fashion trends. In Lvov, famous for its excellent tailors and shoemakers, in Vilna, and especially in Riga, which at that time was even compared with Western European cities, calling it “little Paris”, one could freely buy a good fashionable clothes. Rigans have always been famous for their special elegance. There were many fashion salons in Riga, high-quality fashion magazines were published, informing about world fashion trends. People came to the Baltics for good shoes, linen, furs and French perfumes. Soviet actresses brought fashionable things from the tour. Lvov was also filled with goods. Magnificent fabrics, furs, jewelry, leather bags and shoes were brought from there.

During this period, Soviet women of fashion walked on a par with European fashion and wore padded shoulders, heavily flared things to the waist, just below the knee, blouses with lantern sleeves, worn with sundresses, high hats in the Tyrolean-Bovarian style, and in imitation of the Spanish and Latin American - insanely popular dresses and blouses with polka dots, berets and turbans. The Soviet women liked the turban so much that those who could not buy the finished product simply tied a kerchief folded with a strip in a special manner, with the tips up, constructing a large knot on the top of the head, thus, something imitating the semblance of the aforementioned headdress was obtained. Also in fashion are various felt hats and hats with veils, miniature leather or silk envelope bags, in the 40s they began to wear small handbags over their shoulders on a long thin strap.

In the USSR, original or stylized Spanish and Latin American songs performed by Claudia Shulzhenko, Isabella Yuryeva, and Pyotr Leshchenko are very popular at this time. And although the songs performed by Pyotr Leshchenko did not sound in the Soviet Union, since the former subject of the Russian Empire after the revolution ended up on the territory that had ceded to Romania, his records in a roundabout way got to domestic expanses, mainly from Bessarabia, from Western Ukraine and the Baltic States, included in 1940 became part of the USSR.

In the evening fashion dominated by the romantic trend. For fashionable evening and elegant dresses of the 40s, slightly flared skirts, neckline, tight-fitting bodice, or bodice with drapery, small puffed sleeves are typical. Most often, evening dresses were sewn from crepe-satin, fidechine or thick silk, crepe-georgette, crepe-maroquin, velvet, panne velvet and panchiffon, trimmed with lace and appliqués of flowers, beads. White lace collars are very common. The main addition to the weekend toilet was considered a boa made of silver fox. Of the jewelry, beads and large brooches were especially popular.

In the early 1940s, gabardine coats that flared downwards with large padded shoulders, often with raglan sleeves, became very fashionable. In addition, double-breasted coats and coats of fitted silhouettes with a belt are popular. Soviet models of outerwear of that period corresponded to world fashion trends. In addition to gabardine in the USSR, coats were sewn from boston wool, cord, carpet coat and from the most common fabrics of those years - fule, drape, drape-velor, ratina, cloth and beaver.

The 1940s is the time of platform and wedge shoes. Women all over the world preferred to wear similar shoes. A very fashionable model was shoes with open toe and heel, high heels, having a platform under the toe. In the USSR, there were practically no such shoes, only the elite could wear a fashionable “platform”, most of the platforms in those days were cut out of wood in an artisanal way, and then straps or vamps were stuffed on them from fabric or leather scraps. It turned out something like fashionable shoes. One of the most common models of women's shoes of the 1940s in our country were laced low shoes with a small heel and pumps.

In winter, women of fashion dreamed of getting boots, called "Romanian", again with a small heel, with lacing, but with fur on the inside, and trimmed with fur on the outside. Why they were called "Romanians" is unknown, perhaps in the 1940s, such a shoe model came to the Soviet country from annexed Bessarabia. But, often, both women and men had to be content with felt boots, or cloaks popular at that time - warm high boots with a top made of thin felt and a bottom trimmed with genuine leather.

Good shoes were in short supply, and they were not cheap, so on the feet of Soviet women one could often see rough models that looked a little like elegant shoes made of fashion magazines. Fildepers seamed stockings, a fetish of the 40s, were very difficult to get, and the prices for these stockings were simply unrealistic. Stockings were such a shortage, and such an object of dreams, that women drew a seam and a heel on their legs with a pencil, imitating a stocking on a bare leg. True, during the Second World War, such problems were in many European countries. In the USSR, white socks became an alternative to the coveted stockings. A girl in a dress with padded shoulders or puffed sleeves in white socks and pumps with small heels or sandals is a kind of symbol of the 40s era.

Short, wave-styled hair, so popular in the 1930s, gradually fell out of fashion in the 1940s. fashion, it was difficult to make them on your own, many hairdressers closed during this period. Women began to grow their hair, because it was easier to make a hairstyle from long hair without outside help. Curls from long hair, rollers and styling with rings laid out above the forehead, as well as all kinds of hairstyles with braids, have established themselves in world fashion. The most common hairstyles of the war years among Soviet women were - a roller over the forehead and a bun at the back, often covered with a net, or a roller and hair twisted with Marseille tongs or pinned up at the back, as well as the so-called lambs from braids and a basket - two pigtails with a tip one is attached to the base of the other. Fashionable smells of the 40s were the same “Red Moscow”, “Silver Lily of the Valley” and “Carmen”, and TEZHE cosmetic products were invariably in great demand.

Fashion magazines in the USSR continued to be published during the war years. Fashionable clothes the forties could be seen in the Fashion Magazine, Models of the Season, Fashions, etc. But, if we talk specifically about fashion, then this facet was present in the life of a relatively small circle of people, fashion was far from accessible to everyone, and even the problem of "fashionable or not fashionable" did not really worry the Soviet citizens. Most were preoccupied with thoughts of getting at least some clothes, saving up money to buy essential things. Life was very difficult and unsettled. If the inhabitants of the capital and large cities lived in conditions of scarcity and overcoming difficulties, having little interest in fashion, then for the outback the concept of fashion was something incomprehensible, distant and of little significance.

Since the mid-1930s, stores in large cities began to be more or less filled with goods, but abundance was still not observed in small settlements. The level of commodity deficit in different areas of the USSR varied greatly. The smallest deficit was in Moscow and Leningrad, of the union republics - in the Baltic states. Each settlement in the USSR was assigned to a certain “supply category”, and there were 4 of them in total (special, first, second and third). The flow of out-of-town buyers to Moscow was constantly growing. Large department stores had huge queues.

In the Soviet periodicals of the 1930s, one could read articles by retailers who complained that buyers were mainly interested in inexpensive products, and, for example, they could not afford the silk dresses that factories supply to stores, as well as talking about the problems of low-quality sewing at sewing enterprises, because of which it was often necessary to give the items received by the store for revision to cooperative artels. In addition, it followed from the publications that the sellers independently ordered consignments of clothes in cooperatives and personally agreed on the styles of the ordered models.

With the outbreak of war in the USSR, shops, fashion ateliers and other institutions associated with the fashion and beauty industry began to close. Soon, the card system for the distribution of goods, due to wartime, was again introduced on the territory of the USSR. The scale of destruction and disaster was such that it seemed that the nascent Soviet fashion won't respawn again. The war quickly left its mark on the appearance of people. Hundreds of thousands of girls and boys who got from school to the front simply did not have time to learn what fashion is, they had to put on military uniforms. Many of the women who remained in the rear did hard and dirty work instead of the men who had gone to the front - they dug trenches, worked in hospitals, put out lighters on the roofs of houses. Instead of fashion clothes Trousers, quilted jackets and tarpaulin boots entered women's life.

At the end of the war, in 1944, the Soviet government decided to promote the revival of modeling fashion clothes in the country and opened a fashion house in Moscow on the famous “fashion street” since the 18th century - Kuznetsky Most, house number 14. A new important stage in the history of the Soviet fashion industry began. The best fashion designers in the country were supposed to develop new models of clothing for the Soviet people, and clothing factories were going to oblige them to produce products not at their own discretion, but only according to the patterns of the most successful model samples. Such an intention was still in the late 1930s, but the war prevented all this from being put into practice on a national scale.

The USSR intended to demonstrate to the world the advantages of a centralized socialist economy. It was decided that the prospective development fashion should be associated with ensemble modeling, which involves the creation of a single concept of the costume. In those difficult war years, when the whole world experienced difficulties in the field of light industry, the idea of ​​ensemble modeling was extremely strange, since its implementation required significant financial investments. The state approach to the development of fashion in the country opened up the prospect for the authorities to control what the population wears, to regulate fashion trends, opposing the Soviet fashion bourgeois. The transfer of the country's light industry, which worked almost entirely for the needs of the army, to a peaceful footing was inevitable. It was necessary to start mastering the production of household items by garment factories.

A unified centralized clothing modeling system in the USSR was created gradually and went through several main periods in its development. At the first stage, in 1944 - 1948, only a few regional fashion houses functioned in the largest cities, among which the leading place was occupied by the Moscow House of Models (MDM). In addition to Moscow, in the 40s, fashion houses were opened in Kyiv, Leningrad, Minsk and Riga. At the end of the war, the state, which stood up for the revival of fashion design, did not have funds for fashion. Therefore, the Moscow House of Models (MDM) was obliged to work on the principles of self-sufficiency. It was planned that the garment workers would order and pay for MDM model design fashion clothes implemented in factories. But the enterprises did not want to order anything, it was more profitable for them to put on stream antediluvian models of their own manufacture, made according to old patterns, thereby replicating out-of-fashion, low-quality products. The situation was aggravated by high demand - any more or less cheap and practical clothes were sold out instantly. In addition to clothing factories, numerous artels were engaged in sewing clothes, producing cheap products of low quality, which, due to a shortage, were in constant demand. So the advantages of a centralized socialist economy over a capitalist one were very doubtful.

The Moscow House of Models was obliged to develop and offer new models of clothing to garment workers on its own initiative, working at a loss. Since modeling turned out to be unprofitable, the orders of a structure called Glavosobtorg became the main source of livelihood. MDM not only developed new models fashion clothes, but also sewed them in small batches, which were then successfully sold through commercial stores in the capital and exemplary special department stores that appeared in the country back in the 1930s. The resolution on the wide deployment of a network of commercial food stores, department stores and restaurants of the Glavosobtorg was adopted by the Council of People's Commissars of the USSR on March 18, 1944. The need for this measure was explained by concern for improving the supply of Soviet workers, or rather, their individual representatives. The resolution stated that workers in science, technology, art, literature, as well as the highest officers of the Red Army, have significant funds, but under the existing system of rationed supply they are not able to buy high-quality goods in the assortment they need, and in the opening commercial stores and exemplary department stores, they could purchase them within the limits of leave in one hand. Limited books were also put into circulation, the coupons of which could be partially paid off in a commercial network.

During the First World War, despite the economic difficulties in many European countries, life in the home front continued almost as before. Women of the privileged strata of society dressed up, and fashion houses continued their work. In letters from the war years that have survived to this day, one can easily see this, as women described entertainment and their acquired outfits.

Things were different during World War II. During these years, hostilities engulfed vast expanses of Europe. The lives of many were in danger, economic difficulties befell almost all countries. In connection with the hostilities, the production of civilian clothing almost ceased. Many women put on male military uniforms and joined the ranks of the defenders of their Fatherland.

Women's clothing has undergone significant changes, although there were no major upheavals in the fashion of the 40s, but the masculine style was clearly identified. Civilian clothing was complemented by military details - belts, buckles, epaulettes, patch pockets. Women learned to be frugal, each became a designer for herself. A habit arose of walking bareheaded, or at least wearing a scarf, twisted into a turban.

Clothing from the early forties to 1946 was shortened and widened at the shoulders, the waist was clearly marked. A thin waist emphasized fragility and grace, because even in military uniform a woman remained a woman.

In women's toilets, the waist was pulled together with a wide belt, a contrast was created with wide shoulders, a sun skirt and a thin waist. The shoulders were expanded with puffs or special pads, which were called "shoulders". In coats, in order to emphasize the horizontal line of the shoulders, collars were sometimes completely absent, even in winter coats and fur coats.

Short sleeves appeared on summer dresses - "wings". The sleeve of the kimono, which at that time was called the “bat”, was lined to clearly preserve the volume and wide shoulders.

Popular details in the fashion of the 40s were a variety of pockets, especially large ones, as well as collars, the ends of which reached the middle of the bodice. The suits were with a very long jacket, often close to men's jackets, and also with broad shoulders, and a short skirt. A feature of the 40s was wearing a jacket not only with a skirt, but also with an ordinary colorful dress.

Skirts were popular - sun-flared, pleated, corrugated. Draperies, assemblies, wedges, pleats, pleats were especially preferred. Evening dresses, and such were, were long skirts to the floor, tight-fitting hips and flared at the bottom, narrow sleeves made of lace, bare shoulders or a kimono sleeve. Trousers came into everyday use, as stockings were simply a luxury.

The silhouette was modified - its shape could be rectangular, more often this shape referred to a coat; in the form of two triangles, the tops of which were connected together at the waist line (coat and dress); in the form of a square (jacket of a square suit with a narrow short pencil skirt). These silhouettes emphasized long, thin legs with thick-soled (platform) shoes made of cork or wood, high-heeled shoes, as well as sports shoes with flat soles or boots with tops. This form of silhouette lasted until 1946.

Women liked these geometric lines so much that the transition to smoother and more natural lines after 1946 was not easy for many. In some countries, especially hard hit during the war, coats were sewn from woolen or even cotton blankets.

Elegant dresses and even underwear were sewn from parachute silk. Fallen parachutes were the perfect fabric to create beautiful dresses. And the first who came up with the idea of ​​using them were French and German women, although severe punishment was provided for picking up a parachute in Germany.

Wool, leather, nylon and silk were strategically important materials in the 1940s. That is why, when there was not enough leather in fascist Italy, cork heels appeared on shoes from which Adolf Hitler's girlfriend loved so much.

Was there jewelry during the war? Certainly. Those who could afford a lot, even during the war, wore gold and silver chains - this was the most fashionable decoration, and those who had cramped circumstances - simple metal chains.

Brooches and clip-on earrings were universally loved by women of the 40s. Women decorated their outfits themselves - some with a fringe of threads, it is difficult to even tell from which product, some embroidered with angora wool, and some with artificial flowers. Flowers, flowers, hair nets, knitted with their own hands, it was they who rescued women in those difficult war years. Nets decorated both hair and hats.

Especially high skill reached these things in Poland. Buttons in the 40s were also special - covered with the same fabric as the fabric of the dress (where to find the same buttons at that time). Visiting dresses had many of these small round buttons. Women wore bags on a belt over their shoulders, sometimes they themselves were sewn from the same material as the coat. Fur was rare. But those who could afford it certainly wore it. Fur muffs were especially loved.

During the war, high-quality materials disappeared in European countries, production switched to the manufacture of strategically important products and, of course, weapons. Therefore, in the 40s, combined products were especially fashionable - fabrics and fur from old stocks, fabrics of different textures and colors, tulle became fashionable for elegant dresses. Indeed, in order to appear at an evening celebration, one could sacrifice one's luxurious curtain.

Women tried to find opportunities and showed unusual ingenuity and imagination, who is capable of what. In one thing, everyone was united - in color. Many wore dark colors, the main color was black. The most fashionable was the combination of black and yellow, white almost disappeared.

However, in spite of all misfortunes, a person, like a blade of grass towards the sun, reaches for life, for love. And this is confirmed by the songs of the war years, music, poetry, movies.

In Russia, and then in the Soviet Union, there were few opportunities to afford what was said about the fashion of 1940-1946, there were mainly “quilted jackets”, tunics, short skirts with opposite folds, tightened with a military belt, a scarf on the head or a hat with earflaps, rough boots and a desire to win. The only thing that was possible for the girls of the 40s was to put on their favorite pre-war dress and twist their hair into curls that were fashionable at that war time. And what happiness it was during a short respite on the fronts of our Motherland, when there was an opportunity for an accordion player to stretch the furs of his accordion friend, and for our girls (our grandmothers and great-grandmothers) to start dancing, or to hear the words of songs that warm the soul.

... And the accordion sings to me in the dugout
About your smile and eyes ...
Sing, harmonica, blizzard out of spite.
Call the entangled happiness.
I'm warm in a cold dugout
From your unquenchable love.

And the women of Russia began to dress in the style of the military of the 40s only after the war, at a time when Dior offered his own to the women of Europe. At this time, the first fashion magazines appeared in Russia, brought from Europe by the wives of Soviet officers. Those combined dresses appeared that practical Germans and Austrians sewed in the military 40s, a horizontal line of shoulders with “shoulders” or, as we called them, “lindens” (fake shoulders). After the war, our young grandmothers took out everything they had left from the old wardrobe, altered, combined, embroidered.

The most devastating war in the history of Europe was over...

Fashion, contrary to claims that it is independent of politics, is directly related to it. Here you can quote the words of the famous French writer Anatole France - show me the clothes of a certain country, and I will write its history.