Baby doll in tilde style. Joint tailoring of the tilde baby bear

The new tilde doll was given the name Sweetheart Doll, the literal translation into Russian is Sweetheart Doll. In the 2015-2016 season, the tilde is more of a game doll, and not an interior one, as we are used to. Such a cute little baby. Children will love this doll, as she will have removable clothes - panties, a jacket and a bow on her head. Also, this doll has an “anti-vandal” hairstyle, we know how quickly children can “fall in love” with a toy. Sweetheart Doll or Sweetheart Doll is sure to please every little girl. Sewn by mother's caring hands, it will become a favorite toy with which your daughter will sleep and walk every day. The growth of the finished tilde doll will be approximately 30-31 cm, so we give a full-size pattern. Just print it or translate it by attaching a sheet of paper to the computer screen.

It should be noted that in the new book “Tilda’s Toy Box” there are a lot of projects and patterns for children - a cute doll and a monkey (by the way, a symbol of the future of 2016), patchwork blankets, a playful textile house. The book is expected to be released at the end of September. It remains to wait quite a bit and there will be many new patterns and tilde ideas.

HOW MUCH DOES A BLANKET COST, OR HOW TO CALCULATE THE PRICE OF YOUR PATCHWORKMonday, June 30, 2014 8:06 PM + to quote book Starting to sew patchwork for yourself, hardly anyone immediately thinks about their price. Meanwhile, leaving our home for the world, things made of scraps bring the first customers - customers who "also want such beauty for themselves." And the first question of the customer: “How much does your patchwork quilt cost?” often confuses the novice master. And, meanwhile, this question is not idle. Imagine yourself in the place of the customer. You want to buy some thing (or order its manufacture), the quality suits you (we looked at friends, felt it, liked it), it is logical to find out if your desires coincide with your capabilities? At the same time, as a rule, the customer does not care about the price to the nearest cent. Interesting price range. What is the price? One hundred rubles or a thousand? Five thousand or fifty? Will the announced price be attractive for the customer or not? Therefore, do not be afraid of the question of price and frantically try in your mind (!) to draw up a complete calculation and business plan at the same time. Prepare for the question in advance, even BEFORE you are asked it. Or maybe already asked? Then arm yourself with a pen and a piece of paper - let's start the calculation. To begin with, let's calculate the cost of something that you have already sewn, for example, a patchwork quilt. Even if you sewed it for yourself and are not going to sell it. Product cost = material costs + depreciation of your equipment (sewing machine, iron, etc.) + resources (electricity, water, etc.) + your work. Let's go in order. 1. Material costs - this is how much you paid for the fabrics, threads, filling and other materials used to make the quilt. If the fabrics were from your old stocks - go to the store, see how much they cost now. Count everything, write down the number. 2. Equipment wear. The service life of a sewing machine is approximately 5 years, or 1235 working days, or 9880 working hours (assuming an 8-hour day with a five-day working week). That is, you, working on a sewing machine to order, should be able to buy a new machine in 5 years, no worse than the one you have now. Divide the cost of your sewing machine by 9880 hours - you get approximately how much you need to set aside for 1 hour of work for the wear of the machine. Write down the resulting number. 3. Resources. While we are sewing and ironing, the iron and sewing machine are working. Both devices consume electricity. Take a look at the specifications - find out how many kilowatts per hour they consume. Multiply by the cost of 1 kW in your region - write down the resulting figure. 4. Your work. The most difficult option for many. Imagine that you earn a living by sewing patchwork. What monthly salary would suit you? Treat yourself objectively, taking into account your experience and the level of prices / salaries in your area. You should not set yourself a salary that you cannot live on, but taking astronomical numbers “from the ceiling” is also not the best option. Divide the salary you just set for yourself by 168 hours (this is the average number of hours worked per month). And this new figure - the price of your work per hour - also write down. 5. And now the most important thing - remember how much time you spent on making a blanket. ***** For the future - somewhere near the workplace, put-attach a piece of paper with a pen or pencil to record the start and end times of work. It is rare when it is possible to sew a whole product in one sitting. Therefore, it is useful to record the time of your work immediately as you go. Then (when you finish the product) you will be able to calculate everything to the nearest minute, and draw conclusions about how much time it takes to manufacture this or that product. ***** So far, for calculations, we manage with your memory and memories, such as, “two hours during so many days, so many hours in total.” 6. The numbers that you got for the items "wear", "resources" must be multiplied by the number of hours that you worked on your equipment (typewriter, iron), and the figure for the position "your work" should be multiplied by all that time when you were working on making the quilt (including cutting fabrics and all sewing, including ironing). 7. At the end, add up all the data obtained in paragraphs 1, 2 and 6: material costs + depreciation of your equipment + resources + your work. So you get the cost of the product. 8. The final step is to convert the size of the blanket into square meters (multiply the width of the blanket by its length), and determine how much 1 sq.m costs. such a product (with such a patchwork pattern (according to the complexity of execution), with such a stitch, etc.), dividing the cost of the blanket by the number of square meters in this blanket. And here it is - the treasured figure - the cost of one square meter of your patchwork product - in your hands! Next - multiply it by the size of the blanket that the customer wants to sew (buy). Allowances for increased complexity (more difficult to manufacture patchwork blocks, more time-consuming stitch, etc.) also count. For those who have a difficult relationship with mathematics, you can omit the values ​​\u200b\u200bof “equipment wear” and “resources”. The cost in this case will come from the cost of materials and your work. There will be errors, yes. But after all, as I noted at the beginning, the calculation presented above is suitable for those for whom sewing patchwork products is not the only way to earn their daily bread. If you already approach the issue with all seriousness (as an entrepreneur), then you need to include in the price and future taxes, inflation, and associated costs, and profit from entrepreneurial activity (so that there is room to grow :)). Naturally, I do not claim that the option I proposed is the only possible one. Everyone thinks, as he can, by virtue of his knowledge and experience. Someone determines the price with a formula, such as, "for how much it will not be a pity to part with your creation." But, in my opinion, it is not very suitable for products that are still in the project in the head of your customer, and possibly yours. And further. Do not decide for the customer whether the price will be acceptable to him or not. You may not know the level of his material wealth, his attitude to manual work, in principle, and to your products, in particular. Yes, there are people who are unable to appreciate manual labor, in principle - be prepared for this. They just aren't your customers. You should not devalue your work - instead of sewing for such a person, do something more pleasant and useful for yourself. Take a walk, work with children, read an interesting book. Take care of household chores, in the end - and then there will be more benefits!

First, for sewing we need a pattern.
I’ll make a reservation right away, I made the pattern myself when I received an order for bears similar to those that Tatyana Konne sews. She has bears with a one-piece body - head and body together. Whereas in the pattern of the classic tilde bear there are 2 parts - the head and torso are separate. I don’t like this option, because it’s very difficult to sew on a head imperceptibly. But Tatyana Konne simply didn’t find the pattern. As a result, after suffering a little, she made the pattern herself, as best she could. Maybe that's why my bears turned out so lanky and not quite like bears. But they are mine, so to speak, copyright

I apologize in advance ha the quality of the pattern, I did it as best I could.
So the pattern

We print it on a sheet of A4 format, or translate it from the screen, having previously increased it to A4 format.

In addition to the pattern for sewing bears, we need:
- fabric for the body - any non-stretch fabric, preferably natural (coarse calico, linen, cotton, etc.)
- threads to match the fabric.
- filler (holofiber, synthetic winterizer, synthetic winterizer)
- fabric for clothes: any fabric of your choice for pants and dresses, as well as some stretchy fabric for jackets and jacket sleeves - knitwear, fleece, etc.
- to decorate clothes: ribbons, lace, braid, beads, buttons - depends on your imagination
- beads for black eyes - 2 pcs, or black floss to embroider eyes.
- floss for the nose and mouth
- buttons - 2 pcs, for sewing on the legs.
- a heart to put inside the body (button, fabric, paper - it doesn't matter). This item is optional
- scissors, tailor's pins, crayon / pen / pencil for transferring the pattern to the fabric.

We prepare everything necessary for tailoring, ask questions if something is not clear.
In this post, you can upload photos of what you have chosen for tailoring.

This time I have this set:

For the body - unbleached calico, for pants and dresses - silk, for the jacket - fleece and cotton for lining.

***************
Stage one - cutting and sewing the body here

We sew cutie Tilda and dress according to the Master classes of Elizaveta Krasnokutskaya (Master ToysFabric - Fabrics for needlework)

We sew the body of cutie Tilda

Most recently, a pattern of this sweetest Tilda appeared on the net and, without delay, at the request of my readers, I sewed it (to try out the pattern in practice) and made instructions. In order not to clutter up the publication, I divided the master class into two parts: the torso and clothes. I will try to write a minimum of text and place a maximum of photos, in general, as we all love .. Today there will be a torso. Go!

Pattern of a new tilde

Tildaman and not only were waiting for the new book by Tony Finnanger with the new Tilda, which leaves almost no one indifferent. Little chubby baby. We have prepared a pattern for you. Doll in the original 31cm. http://www.livemaster.ru/topic/1389589-vykrojka-no...dy-dozhdalis?vr=1&inside=0

For the body of a doll with a height of 31 cm, we need:

Materials:

- fabric for the body 17x110cm (or 45x55cm);

- holofiber 80 gr;

- black paint on fabric;

- two small buttons as fastening of hands.

Tools:

- scissors / patchwork knife;

- needle / sewing machine;

- iron (hair dryer);

- fabric marker

- handmade hands;

Step 1. Cut:

1) fold the fabric in half and translate all the details in duplicate, except for the body part (we translate it once);

2) we sew all the details, except for the details of the head, around the perimeter, leaving holes for eversion. We sew the details of the head only on one (less convex) side;

Step 2. Preparing the Parts:

) cut out all the details along the contour. Where seams are made - zigzag. I draw your attention to the fact that on the hands there is a hole for eversion on the side, on the pattern it is marked with a dotted line;

5) so that the details do not wrinkle after eversion, we make notches with scissors in the necessary places (especially in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe finger of the hand);

6) unfold the details of the head and iron the seam (this is a must!);

7) we cut off two parts of the head facing each other;

8) and stitch around the perimeter, leaving a hole in the neck for eversion;

9) we turn out all the details and iron;

Step 3. Let's take care of the legs:

Now that the parts are prepared, let's start assembling the doll.

10) stuff the legs with filler - I recommend balls (springs), because the detail is rather narrow;

11) fix the filler with a seam at a distance of 5-7mm from the edge;

12) sew the legs with a “forward needle” seam to one of the parts of the body;

13) fill the body with holofiber;

14) sew the hole with a hidden seam;

Step 4. We put the head in place:

15) fill the head with holofiber (tight!);

16) we make a small tuck in the neck area and tack;

17) try on the head to the body and fasten with pins around the perimeter;

18) sew the head to the body with a hidden seam with small stitches;

* After completion of work, the running seam (item 16) must be removed.

Step 5. Hair Bundles and Hands:

19) we turn the details of the hair bundles inward and tuck around the perimeter;

20) we fill the bundles with holofiber and try on how we found a suitable place - we fix it with pins;

21) sew around the perimeter with a hidden seam, then remove the running stitches;

22) we fill the handles and sew the hole with a hidden seam;

Step 6. Painting:

For painting, I strongly recommend using special paints for fabric (now there are a lot of them everywhere, not a shortage). I do not recommend using contours and spray. I use our St. Petersburg fabric paints olka (our answer to the sanctions) - I'm more than satisfied with them. Brushes choose synthetic, medium hardness, pile short or medium. I usually have enough 3 sizes for different subtleties of work.

23) using a disappearing marker, outline the eyes and hairline;

24) rear view;

25) this is my know-how, I came up with it by accident, because I rarely draw eyes - my hands tremble. In a piece of adhesive tape, make a hole with a hole punch (putting a piece of paper on the non-sticky side) and stick it on the doll's face so that the eye just ends up in this hole;

26) then carefully draw the eyes and remove the adhesive tape. So I avoided the possibility that the hand might tremble, and she might also have eyes - this is not hair, you can’t really fix it if you miss;

27) carefully paint over the hairline sparing no paint so that there are no bald spots, especially carefully it is necessary to paint over the seams. And send to dry. My paints dry quickly - after 1.5 hours, heat treatment can be carried out;

I don’t know how other paints are fixed on the fabric, I give instructions for my paint. After complete drying, heat treatment of the paint with an iron from the inside is necessary. Because it is impossible to iron it from the inside; there are 3 options for fixing:

* iron the painted areas with an iron through a dry cloth;

* bake in a preheated oven for several minutes;

* blow with a hot hair dryer. This is the way I use it!

Step 7. Hands and cheeks:

For fastening the arms, I used 2 buttons and reinforced threads to make a button-and-thread fastening.

28) did not describe this process in detail, because there are quite a few diagrams and instructions on the Internet for this common attachment of limbs to toys.

The last accent is to brown the cheeks. I usually use a watercolor pencil in the right color.

Ready! We are waiting for clothes ... Creative success to you! Elizabeth Krasnokutskaya.

http://www.livemaster.ru/topic/1393495-shem-tulovi...lashki-tildy?vr=1&inside=0

We sew clothes for Tilda Cuties

Today, the continuation of the master class on Tilda Cutie, we will sew clothes. Before starting work, you need to choose a fabric for clothes. You need at least two fabrics that match. The third fabric is for lining the jacket, despite the fact that it is not visible at first glance, it is better to pick it up immediately in the general color scheme, since the jacket will be removable.

For clothes we need.

(I didn’t write down the fabric consumption, but it will be easy to try on the printed pattern).

Materials:

- fabric for panties and headbands;

- fabric for the jacket;

- jacket lining fabric;

- narrow elastic band (optional);

- covered button, lace (optional);

- clothes hooks (optional).

Tools:

- scissors / patchwork knife;

- needle / sewing machine;

- iron;

- fabric marker

- Handmade hands.

Step 1: Pants

1. We fold the fabric in half and translate the details of the panties in a mirror. Sew along the AB line.

2. We unfold the parts, iron the seams, fold the parts facing each other. Sew along the vertical seams.

3. We make folds from the side of the belt and legs.

4. Carefully cut off around the entire perimeter.

5. We sew the gates. I prefer a blind stitch, but you can use a stitch forward with a needle or machine if the size of the product allows.

6. Since the panties are supposed to be removable, I inserted a thin elastic band (5 mm) into the waistband and into the legs. You can simply hem the collars to the right size if you don't want to mess with elastic bands.

7. Control fitting

Step 2. Jacket

Perhaps the most time-consuming part in the process of making Cuties, but it's worth it.

8. We cut out the details of the jacket, be sure to mark the darts.

We collect the front of the jacket.

9. We sew the shoulder seams, iron them out.

10. Sew on the details of the sleeves. To do this, we outline the middle of the sleeve and sew from the shoulder seams. It is better to make a basting seam first.

11. Fold the sleeves in half and make side seams.

12. We fold the tucks along the midline and sew in all four places of the jacket.

Let's do the collar.

13. We sew the details of the collar, leaving the edge unsewn from the side of the dotted line. Turn out and iron carefully.

14. We outline the place of the future collar and sew it to the front of the jacket.

Jacket lining.

6. We cut out all the same details for the lining, except for the collar and sleeves.

17. We sew the shoulder and side seams, as well as the darts, similarly to the front part.

18. - Fold the front part and the lining facing each other. It is better to pin the sleeves so that they do not accidentally fall into the seam. Assess the density of your fabric - whether you can turn the jacket inside out through the opening of the sleeve in the lining (my fabrics allow this). If you're unsure, it's best to leave an opening at the bottom of the jacket to turn inside out.

- Sew the pieces together around the perimeter.

- We twist and iron.

Step 3. Final finishing work

Just a few finishing touches left and Cutie will be pleased.

19. We turn the opening of the sleeve of the lining and sew it with a hidden seam, trying to get into the seam of the sleeve.

20. We turn the sleeves to the desired length and sew with a hidden seam.

21. - Cut out the details of the headband. The length of the bandage must first be measured on the head of the doll. I got 40x5 cm.

- Sew along the perimeter, leaving an opening for eversion.

- Turn inside out, sew up the hole with a hidden seam.

22. We tie a bow with a simple knot and sew it to the bandage. The ends of the bandage can simply be sewn together on the doll, I sewed a clothes hook on the edges so that it can be easily removed and put on.

23. We make out the clasp of the jacket. I chose clothes hooks as they look pretty neat and don't require any special equipment to install. Optionally, you can decorate the clasp of the jacket with buttons, snaps, ties or Velcro.

24. We decorate the jacket with a brooch. In the original pattern, the brooch is different, but according to the color scheme of the clothes in my version, a covered button, decorated with cotton lace, was more suitable.

Now that's all for sure! I hope I didn't bore you too much with the description. I tried to be short and to the point. Thank you Tony Finnanger for the new baby Cutie.

Creative success to you!

Elizabeth Krasnokutskaya.