How to dye fabric at home with natural dyes. Methods for painting and dyeing silk

How to dye fabrics

Fabrics and products before dyeing must be cleaned of stains and washed.

First you need to remove the layer of starch from the new cotton and linen materials that are on them. This is achieved by boiling in a soapy-soda solution for 30-45 minutes. After boiling, the material must be rinsed well in water until soda and soap are completely removed.

Old stains must be removed with special formulations. Residues of the stain remover must always be removed by washing and ironing the areas that have been cleaned. Failure to follow this rule may result in uneven coloring of the fabric.

If there are still dark stains left unremoved (for example, from ink), it is recommended to repaint the material only in a very dark or preferably black color, because usually such stains cannot be covered when dyed in light colors.

Metal buttons and decorations must first be torn off from ready-made items to be dyed to avoid the formation of rust stains.

Yarn, so that it does not get tangled, should be dyed in separate skeins, tied in several places. All skeins are recommended to be strung on a piece of thin rope. This will make it easy to turn them over while dyeing.

Preparation of dishes and water for dyeing

The dishes in which they are supposed to paint must be completely clean. It is best to paint in an enamel bowl.

Galvanized or aluminum utensils should be thoroughly descaled before dyeing.

The capacity of the dishes must be such that it can be freely placed in the material without crushing it, and that it is covered with a dye solution during the entire dyeing process. This makes it easier to achieve even coloring.

In addition to dishes, you need to prepare two wooden sticks with which you will have to turn over the material to be painted. The sticks should be smooth, free of knots so as not to damage the material, and strong enough to lift the material out of the dye bath.

Dyeing is best done in soft rain or snow water. Very hard water should be softened by adding 1 tsp. drinking soda or 1 tbsp. l. ammonia in 12 liters of water.

How to choose a dye for dyeing fabric

Before choosing a dye, you need to know exactly what textile material the product is made of. To do this, pull a small thread along and across the fabric (warp and weft) and set fire to a match. Cotton, linen and rayon burn well and smell like burnt paper. Wool burns badly, a black sintered ball is formed at the end of the thread, which smells like burnt (burnt) horn. Natural silk also burns poorly.

Universal or special dyes, which dye any textile materials equally well, are applied to fabrics made from different textile materials, they are called mixed (semi-woolen, semi-silk, etc.).

The choice of dye of the desired color depends primarily on what material is to be painted: white or colored. Dyeing white material results in the color indicated on the dye label. If a colored material is dyed, then its color can sometimes differ sharply from the color indicated on the dye label.

Remember that dyeing a colored material will always result in a darker color than before dyeing.

Dark-colored material is recommended to be dyed either in the same, but darker color (for example, brown - in dark brown, blue - in dark blue, etc.), or in black, as when re-dyeing dark fabrics in other colors ugly dirty shades are obtained.

The black color covers all others, but takes on a tint of the color of the material being repainted.

If you take the dye more or less than the norm, you get a lighter or darker color.

When renewing the color of worn, faded clothing, a smaller amount of dye should be used than when dyeing white material (depending on the degree of fading).

Fabric dyeing technology

Cleaned from stains and washed, the material should be soaked in warm water just before dyeing, squeezed well, straightened thoroughly and then painted. Pre-soaking of the material prevents color unevenness during dyeing.

Fabrics and items made of natural and rayon and staple fibers, as well as all delicate fabrics, must not be twisted during the spin cycle. It is better to squeeze such matters and things strongly between the palms.

The pre-soaked and squeezed material is immersed in a dye solution and dyed depending on the type of material.

When laying the material must lie freely. In no case should it be crushed, as stains and stripes can form from this.

During dyeing, the material should be rotated as often as possible. To do this, fabrics or products are hooked with one stick and raised above the vessel, and the folds are slightly straightened with another stick. Then, with the same stick, a fabric or product is hooked at the other end and lowered back into the dish.

The skeins of yarn strung on a rope (the ends of which, when dyed, should lie on the edges of the dish), are pulled out by picking up both ends of it, then the individual skeins are leveled with a stick and put back into the dish. In this case, you must ensure that the rope does not fall into the dishes.

It is imperative to straighten the folds when dyeing the fabric, otherwise stains may result.

Dyeing of cotton, linen and rayon products

In the prepared dye solution (multi-purpose dye for fabric), add table salt (1 tbsp. (30 g) for each dye packet) and stir well until the salt is completely dissolved. Then, the material, previously moistened with warm water, is immersed in the dyeing solution, the solution is gradually heated to a boil and dyed for 20 minutes at a low boil, turning the material all the time. This is usually done when dyeing white material or when repainting colored material in dark colors.

When dyeing in light and medium tones, table salt (for greater evenness of color) is added half an hour after the start of dyeing. To do this, the material to be dyed is lifted with a stick, held over the dye bath, salt is added, stirred, the material is again lowered into the dye bath and dyeing is continued while boiling for another 10 minutes.

Cotton fabrics with the addition of polyester look lighter after dyeing, since polyester is not dyed.

Material and products made of artificial silk are dyed in the same way, but the dye solution is not heated to a boil, but to a temperature of 60 degrees (as the hand tolerates) and table salt is not added. Then stop heating and dye for another 20 minutes in a cooling dye solution, turning the material all the time. After that, the colored material is removed with a stick, the liquid is allowed to drain and rinsed well in cold water.

Dyeing of wool and woolen products

In the prepared dye solution, add (for each packet of dye) 1 tbsp. l. vinegar essence or 1.5 cups of table vinegar. The dye solution is then stirred well. After that, the material, previously moistened with warm water, is immersed in the dye bath, the dye solution is gradually heated to a boil, turned off and painted for 10 minutes, turning the material all the time.

Usually, when dyeing white wool, almost all the dye is selected from the dye solution (the solution becomes slightly colored). If, after the set dyeing time, the dye has not completely come out, and the material is not colored enough, add another half the amount of vinegar and dye for another 10 minutes. The dyed material is cooled in solution.

After that, the material is removed from the dye bath with a stick, the liquid is allowed to drain and rinsed well in cold water.

How to dye natural silk fabrics

In the prepared dye solution, add 1 tbsp. l. (30 g) common salt and stir well until the salt is completely dissolved.

After that, the product, previously moistened with warm water, is immersed in the dye solution, it is gradually heated to a boil and dyed for 15 minutes at a low boil, turning the product all the time. Then stop heating and dye for another 10 minutes in a cooling dye solution, turning continuously.

After that, the product is removed, the liquid is allowed to drain and rinsed well in cold water, and then in a weak solution of vinegar essence (1 tablespoon of vinegar essence or 250 ml of vinegar per 5 liters of water). When dyeing silk materials, remember that silk requires twice as much dye as other materials.

How to process the material after dyeing

Dyed material should be rinsed well in cold water, changing it several times until it remains clean. After rinsing in cold water, it is recommended to rinse the painted product in warm water.

After rinsing in clean cold water, natural silk should be rinsed in cold water with the addition of 1 tbsp for every 5 liters of water. l. vinegar essence or 1.5 cups of vinegar.

The better you rinse the dyed material after dyeing, the less it will shed in subsequent washes and will not stain the laundry.

The washed material should be squeezed out as best as possible. In this case, thin fabrics and things made of artificial and natural silk should not be twisted, but should only be squeezed strongly with the palms and then dried in the shade.

Woolen and silk garments should not be hung out to dry as they stretch and lose their shape and may develop streaks. They are rolled up in a clean towel or sheet and wrung out several times in this form. The wrung out thing is laid out on a table or on a bed on a white bedding and stretched in shape and the correct size. In this position, leave the thing to dry.

Cotton fabrics and garments should be ironed while damp on the right side with a hot iron. Woolen and silk materials and products should be ironed in a slightly damp state from the inside out with a moderately hot iron (for wool and natural silk no higher than 150-160 degrees, for rayon - no higher than 120-130 ° C).

How to dye embroidery threads

Ordinary aniline paint should be taken on the tip of a knife, mixed in a glass of warm water and boiled. Dip dry floss threads into the solution and dye to the desired shade.

To create a full range from light to dark tones, the threads are kept in the solution for different times - from several minutes to half an hour.

To fix the color, the dyed threads are dipped in a salt solution (200 ml of water 1 tsp of salt) and boiled for half an hour, and then put in cold vinegar for half an hour.

Glycerin restores color after fixing in vinegar, as the threads change their color - turn pale. After vinegar, the threads should be rinsed and dipped for half an hour in a solution of glycerin (5-6 drops per glass of water).

Discoloration of dyed fabrics. Fabrics dyed with aniline dyes can be bleached with the following solution: hydrosulfite - 4 parts, 30% acetic acid - 4 parts (or formic acid - 85 parts).

Dissolve hydrosulfite in water heated to 50 °C. Add acid in very small portions until the milky milky liquid immediately clears up. This solution, when boiled, discolors the fabric for 0.5-1 hour, after which the fabric is thoroughly rinsed.

Thread dyeing and bleaching

For dyeing, the threads are cut or wound into skeins, depending on how long the ends are needed for work. Finished products are rarely painted. It should be borne in mind that the threads shrink during dyeing.

Separate fragments of a woven fabric can be tinted with a brush, using aniline dye diluted in a small amount of hot water (the color is preliminarily checked on a sample).

Before dyeing, the skeins are freely tied up in three or four places with a strong light thread (so as not to shed). Then they are left in water for several hours (preferably in rain or snow). They paint in a large enameled basin or tank. In order for the threads to be dyed evenly, the dye solution must completely cover the skeins.

A solution of aniline dye is prepared as follows: dye is poured into a glass half-liter jar and poured with a small amount of hot water (1/3 of the jar), stirred well and the same amount of hot water is added (rubber gloves must be worn when working with the dye).

If you need a saturated color, then one and a half to two packs of dye are taken for 500 g of threads; if a light rut is needed, then very little paint is spent on the tip of the knife for the same number of threads. However, only white or very light threads can be dyed in pastel colors. The darker the natural color, the more difficult it is to give the threads a new shade.

If the threads are mixed, then two dyes of the same color are used simultaneously - for cotton and synthetic fibers.

The dye solution is poured through three layers of gauze into a tank with water heated to a temperature of 30 - 40 degrees (no more). A strong light rope is threaded through wet skeins and they are lowered simultaneously into the tank, leaving the ends of the rope on the edge of the dish. The coils are heated for 5-10 minutes, stirring continuously, then they are removed from the tank by the ends of the rope and half of the saline solution is poured into the tank (2 tablespoons of salt per 1 package of dye). The coils on the rope are again lowered into the tank, brought to a boil and boiled for 10-15 minutes over low heat, then removed and the rest of the saline solution is added. The solution is thoroughly mixed, skeins are lowered into it and boiled for another 15-20 minutes. Then the tank is removed from the fire, but the skeins are not removed until the water has cooled. After that, they are rinsed in warm water with the addition of table vinegar (1 tablespoon per 1 liter of water).

Another recipe for dyeing cotton and linen threads. In this case, the dye solution is heated, cooled slightly and dry skeins are lowered into it. While stirring, keep them in the solution for about 30 minutes, depending on the desired color intensity. The dyed skeins are transferred to a second warm solution (1 teaspoon of salt per 1 glass of water) and boiled, stirring, for 30 minutes. Then dipped for 30 minutes in a third warm solution (1 tablespoon of vinegar per 1 liter of water). The threads in vinegar will become paler, and in order for the color to recover, they are placed for 30 minutes in the fourth solution (5-6 drops of glycerin per 1 cup of warm water).

Dyeing with natural dyes (the amount of dye is indicated per 100 g of threads)

Any of the following liquids is suitable as a dressing: vinegar, brine or tartaric acid (1 tablespoon per 1 liter of solution).

Beige color. 200 - 300 g of dry birch leaves are soaked for a day in cold water (1-2 liters of water per 100 g of leaves) and then boiled in the same water for 15 - 20 minutes. The broth is filtered into a dish for dyeing, mordant is added, wet skeins are dipped into the solution and boiled for an hour on low heat, stirring continuously. After that, the threads are left in the solution until completely cooled, and then rinsed in warm water and dried.

Yellow. 100 g of dry onion husks are soaked for 7 hours in 3-4 liters of water. The infusion is filtered, heated, pickled is added, wet skeins are dipped into it and boiled over low heat for 2 hours, then rinsed and dried. The color of the threads turns out to be reddish-yellow if the dyeing was carried out without mordant.

Brown color. As a dye, spruce cones are used, which have lain under the snow for the winter. They should be raw and red inside. 1.5 kg of crushed raw cones is poured into 6-7 liters of water and boiled for 4 hours. The broth is filtered, the fixative is dissolved in it and the threads are boiled in the resulting broth for 30 minutes, then the threads are rinsed and dried.

Fabric bleaching . A simple way to bleach is to heat the threads in a soapy solution. Wet skeins of unsuccessfully dyed threads are dipped in warm soapy water and heated (but not boiled) with continuous stirring. From time to time, the solution is drained and replaced with a new one until the threads acquire the desired color.

Another recipe. For 1 liter of water, take 5 g of 3% hydrogen peroxide and 1 g of ammonia. The coils are soaked in water with the addition of baking soda or ammonia (20 g per 8 liters of water), dipped into the solution for 30-40 minutes and then thoroughly washed in clean water. Before the last rinse, 9% table vinegar is added to the water (1 tablespoon per 1 liter of water).

What colors are obtained by mixing paints

Mixing colors	Received color
yellow and red	Orange
purple and red	Red purple
Blue and red	Violet
Green and red	Brown
gray and red	Dark red
purple and yellow	olive brown
Blue and yellow
gray and yellow	pea
yellow and green		light green
purple and green		Greenish brown
Blue and green		blue green
Brown and green		Olive
Gray and green		Grey-green
purple and blue		blue purple
Brown and blue		Dark brown
gray and blue		Grey-blue
Brown and purple		Dark brown
Gray and purple		gray purple
yellow and brown		tan
Red and brown		Red-brown
gray and brown		Brown
Red and purple
Red and blue		Lilac
blue and yellow		Salad

Marriage when painting products, its prevention and elimination

In some cases, things may be uneven or insufficiently colored, have stains, change color from washing, rubbing, light, etc.

All these types of marriage appear from poor preparation of the fabric for dyeing, the wrong choice of dyes, non-compliance with the proper conditions for dyeing and insufficient washing of the fabric. Marriage also depends on the condition of the fabric (worn, worn, damaged by various caustic substances, etc.). Excess dye and its poor solubility, the use of hard water, shortening the time of painting, non-compliance with temperature conditions, lack of fixing (for some dyes) reduce the strength of the color. Deficiencies can be partially eliminated by additional rinsing, washing with soap or other detergents.

♦ For worn items, it is necessary to use those dyes that have a good leveling ability. Uneven coloring is obtained by heating the dye solution too quickly, a higher temperature than is required for a given dye, insufficient mixing of liquid and things, with a small amount of dye solution, floating products, loading them in a dry state, etc.

♦ If things after dyeing are poorly rinsed and left unwrung out, streaks appear, giving an uneven color on the drying parts.

♦ Stains on clothes are formed from dirty dishes used for dyeing, when items are folded together, washed out, etc.

♦ If a lot of things are loaded into the tank, they are painted in a compressed state, which results in folds, wrinkled places that are difficult to straighten and sometimes do not smooth out. Such a marriage is called a marriage. A crease can also appear when things cool down quickly during rinsing, if immediately after painting they are lowered into cold water.

♦ To eliminate the crease, the products are moistened with hot water with a small amount of ammonia, dried in a stretched state and ironed with a heavy iron.

♦ Stains caused by uneven dyeing of wool can sometimes be removed by boiling in a solution of sodium sulfate (Glauber's salt).

♦ When rinsing the fabric after dyeing, it is necessary to check whether the excess dye has been removed, otherwise things will stain the laundry.

1. Any fabric, including silk, should be cleaned before the dyeing procedure. Dirt, dust that has fallen on the thing will prevent an even application of paint. Lightly shake off the product, lower it into a basin or bath with warm water, which is not heated much. Silk is a delicate fabric. It is recommended to wash it by hand. Strongly not squeezing, not twisting. Soap can be taken not only solid household, but also liquid. Delicately acts on silk fabric and washing gel. After washing, rinse the item in several clean waters. The remains of soap or powder are also undesirable: they will smear the result of the painting process.
2. Before dyeing silk, you can also wash it in the washing machine. You can wash silk in automatic mode. The most delicate. Complete with low revs.
3. After washing, it is better to dry silk, although you can continue to work with wet silk. You still have to put it in the water.
4. Dishes for dyeing silk are selected with an enamelled surface. It is advisable that you stock up immediately with a sufficient amount of warm and cold water and do not run later, risking disrupting the painting process.
5. Pour warm water into the selected container. Put some paint in there. What? Have you heard of the art of batik? When you go to a specialty shop that sells dyes for different types of fabric, you ask for silk. The shade you want. Consider the previous features of the silk pattern. On dark, black things, light paint is unlikely to fall as expected. Will have to take with a margin to re-paint. Just in case.
6. Dilute the paint according to the instructions. Before dyeing silk, keep in mind that adding more dye is not always a good thing. It is better not to expose silk delicate fabric to risk.
7. If you are going not just to dye silk, but to paint it (this is the popular art of needlework), first rinse the thing in saline, without squeezing it, dry it. True, on such a basis, bright colors will not work. That's why pastel is so welcome. But it will hold firmly and will not allow the contours to blur.
8. Artificial silk will also have to be boiled in a dye solution.
9. At the final stage, the silk is rinsed in cool water with the addition of vinegar (a tablespoon per bucket of water). This is to fix the paint and give the product a shine.

We will tell you how to dye fabric at home and how to do it correctly in our article. All about dyes for wool, silk, cotton and how you can dye synthetic and natural materials at home.

The best way to update old things that are faded, sun-bleached, dirty or just tired is painting.

Preparing to dye fabric

Before choosing how to dye a fabric, you should study all the nuances associated with this process:

1. Products of light colors can be painted in almost any color. But bright clothes are dyed only in dark colors or it will have to be discolored beforehand.
2. The composition of the material should be studied in advance, since the staining result will directly depend on this. The best result is obtained when painting natural materials, but synthetics are often not dyed at all.
3. Fabric dyeing is possible only if the thing is clean, that is, it must be washed before applying the dye.
4. Before you dye your clothes, you need to weigh them. This will allow you to correctly determine the amount of dye.
5. Fabrics are dyed in distilled water. Ordinary tap water will have to be further softened with soda (1 teaspoon of soda per 10 liters of water).

After all the preparatory activities with clothes are completed, you can proceed directly to the preparation of the dye. To dye products at home, it is recommended to use such types of fabric paint as factory water-soluble and natural (natural). Factory dyes are available in different forms, such as powder, paste or granules.

How can fabric be dyed?

If you do not take into account the composition of matter, you can paint the product as follows:

1. Pour dry powder dye into a glass of water, dissolve it and strain through cheesecloth.
2. Add dye to a metal bowl with prepared clothes and pour in enough hot water to completely cover the item.
3. Place the container with the product and dye on the stove and bring the liquid to a boil. Clothing must be constantly turned over so that the matter is dyed evenly. After 20 minutes from the start of boiling, salt is added to the water (from 2 to 5 tablespoons). This is necessary in order for the color to become more saturated.

This is a homemade interpretation of how fabrics are dyed in production. It is necessary to evaluate the resulting color of the product not immediately, as soon as it is painted, but after drying. The result largely depends on how well the raw material was prepared.

Important! A container that was dyed with factory dye can no longer be used for cooking.

Dyeing depends on the type of fabric. So, for wool, as a rule, acid dyes are used, and in addition to salt, vinegar is also added to the water during the dyeing process. It is also used when rinsing dyed silk, which makes it possible to better fix the color on the fabric. Before you dye synthetic fabric, you need to weigh the pros and cons in advance. It is very difficult to paint such material. Sometimes the paint does not fall at all, but simply flows off the clothes like from cellophane. If it is still necessary to paint, then it is better to choose a suitable dispersion paint in advance.

Dyeing fabric with natural dyes is considered safer and more natural.

To obtain it, vegetable, fruit and berry juices are used. To make the result stable, when preparing the dye, natural raw materials are mixed with either salt or vinegar. In general, the result of staining depends on how intense the color of the vegetable or fruit infusion was, which indicates a sufficient amount of coloring pigment in it.

Dye fabric at home: pros and cons

Before you dye the fabric at home, you must first evaluate all the "pros" and "cons" of home dyeing.

The advantages (pros) are as follows:

• for home dyeing, aniline dye for cotton fabric is used, which allows you to dye products easily and quickly even for a beginner in this business;
• renewal and restoration of things, the return of old products to life;
• obtaining an intense lasting color;
• safety of the dyeing procedure (especially when using natural dye for cotton fabrics based on vegetable and fruit juices). You can read general advice on the care of materials in the "" section.

Negative points of home staining:

• dyeing clothes is not as easy as it seems at first glance, and the result of dyeing does not always match what you expect to see;
• the first 2-3 washes, the clothes shed very much, and after that you will have to add vinegar to the water so that the paint does not wash out;
• Cotton dye is only for cotton and other natural materials and does not stain synthetics very well.

Before you dye a thing, be sure to read the instructions for the dye. This will allow you to achieve a really good result from the planned procedure.

Coloring video:

Products made of natural silk are prepared for dyeing in the same way as woolen ones. They are washed in a soap solution using softened water (when washing, the original color is also partially removed). In addition, they remove fatty stains that interfere with staining of the fabric.

When using direct dyes to obtain light and medium shades, soap (15 g per 1 liter of water) and sometimes gelatin (3-4 g per 1 liter of water) are added to the solution. They are separately boiled in water and (introduced into the dye solution before dyeing.

For dark colors add vinegar and ammonium acetate.

For light shades take 1-3% direct dye, 10-15% neutral soap, 5-10% Glauber's salt; for dark shades - 4-5% dye, 2-4% ammonium acetate, 5-10% salt, 3-7% vinegar (8 percent);

The dye solution for light shades is heated to 40 ° and things are loaded into it. The liquid is gradually brought to 90-95° and dyed by continuing stirring at this temperature for 30 minutes. Then, having stopped heating, leave the products in the solution for another 10-20 minutes. Finally, things are taken out, washed in warm, and then in cold water. 15-20 g of vinegar per 1 liter of water is added to the wash water.

In dye solution for dark shades add table salt and ammonium acetate. Things are immersed in liquid at a temperature of 40 °. Gradually bring to 90-95 ° and paint for 20-30 minutes, then, stopping heating, add vinegar. After that, the solution is again heated to 95° and staining is continued for another 15 minutes.

Silk things are dyed with acid dyes in much the same way as woolen ones. Sometimes when painting black, a two-bath method is used, that is, they are first dyed with direct dyes, and then with acid ones. This method is also applicable if silk items are sewn with cotton threads.

When painting with acid dyes, the following dosage is adopted: 1-4% dye, 5-10% Glauber's salt, 2-3% vinegar essence (all ratios are taken from the weight of things).

The dyeing process begins at a temperature of 40-50 °. The dye solution is gradually heated to 90-95° and dyed at this temperature for 30 minutes. When using dyes that quickly dye silk, vinegar essence is added in two steps (“half at the beginning of dyeing and the second half after 30 minutes) into a dye solution cooled to 50-60 °, which is then heated again to 95 °.

Usually, by the end of the coloring, an almost clear solution is obtained.

After dyeing, silk items are washed like woolen ones.

Bright colors for natural silk are obtained by dyeing with basic dyes in the presence of vinegar essence. But these dyes are not very durable in washing and do not tolerate the action of light.

When dyeing with basic dyes, the following recipe is adopted: 0.5-3% dye and 0.4% vinegar essence (percentages of the weight of things).

The main dyes include the following: methylene blue, basic blue K, basic violet K, basic bright green, rhodamine Zh and others.

The dye is dissolved in water softened with vinegar essence (10 g of vinegar essence per 10 liters of water). Things are loaded into the solution at a temperature of 30-35 °, then it is gradually heated to 80% and dyed for about 30-45 minutes. Then the solution is cooled, things are taken out and washed in warm and cold water.

Semi-silk things most often dyed with direct dyes.

The following dosage is accepted: 1-4% of the dye; 4-10% g of sound soap (60 percent); 10-20% Glauber's salt (as a percentage of the weight of things). Soap is added to the dye solution to obtain a more even tone. Things are loaded into the solution at a temperature of 60-70 °, heated to 90-95 ° and painted for about 60 minutes. Then the products are washed in warm water softened with baking soda or ammonia, and then in water acidified with a small amount of vinegar to revive the color.

Before the last rinse, you need to make sure that the soap is completely removed from the clothes, as the soap decomposes from vinegar, as a result of which fatty acids remain on the fabric.

Semi-silk items, consisting of natural and rayon or cotton, are also dyed with direct dyes, and natural silk and wool with acid dyes.

Before dyeing, you need to make a fixative solution that will help the fabric hold the coloring pigment.

If dyeing with berries, use saline solution: add half a cup of salt to 8 cups of water, put a cloth and simmer for about an hour.

If dyeing with vegetables, use a vinegar solution: add four parts of water to one part vinegar, put the cloth in the solution and also keep it on low heat for an hour.

After that, remove the cloth and rinse with cold water. Now it's ready for painting.

Dip the fabric in the dye solution and leave for a while. The longer you keep it in the dye, the richer the color will be.

As the fabric dries, the colors will fade a little, keep this in mind when removing the fabric from the water. The end result will be paler.

What colors can be obtained:

Beige and cream colors:
- strong (instant) coffee, brew with boiling water, put a cloth. Hold for a few minutes (depending on the strength of the coffee and the desired shade), rinse, dry. When washed with a mild shampoo and mild powders, it does not shed. Similarly, fabric is dyed in strong tea. Different types of tea and coffee give different shades

Yellow:
- birch leaves (bright yellow color)
- bark, roots and wood of barberry
- buckthorn bark. Fresh bark is yellow, dry brown
- wormwood - gives a straw and fawn color. If you add alum - the color will be lemon
- turmeric (bright yellow)
Blue colour :
- blueberries (berries give a purple color)
- blackberries (berries give a blue color)
- Ivan da Marya (flowers)
- meadow sage (all parts of the plant except the roots)

Green color:
- juniper berries
- marsh horsetail (stems)
- elderberry leaves - spinach leaves

Red and brown:
- elderberries (ripe berries will stain the fabric red)
- oregano (grass will dye the fabric red)
- buckthorn (dry bark will give a brown color. Young twigs and fresh leaves (until flowering) will give a red color
- horse sorrel root (brown)
- onion peel (red-brown color)

Orange:
- sea buckthorn berries

Gingerbread:
- cinnamon gives an absolutely delicious color (we dilute the powder in water or take sticks and cook fabric in this broth)

Desert, mustard shades:
- fabrics dyed yellow (turmeric or other plant), boiled in tea

All these dyes do not fade and retain the freshness of the color for years.
To dye the fabric, you need to grind the plant material (the one you chose) and then boil it in distilled or rain water (if there is, add potash - potassium or sodium carbonate). After that, the aqueous solution of the dye must be evaporated, for a more intense color and filter.

The fabric dyed with such dyes is no longer subjected to the process of washing or getting wet, as this leads to drips and stains, and direct sunlight is not desirable.

marble color
-coffee - the fabric is strongly crumpled and placed in a small (relative to the fabric) dish - dried on a battery in a crumpled form
- henna of various shades (also dry on a battery)

And a little about the chemistry that is in any home:

Divorces - patterns
We take a weak solution of potassium permanganate, draw patterns or stains with a thin squirrel brush. Depending on the strength of the solution, the color also changes.
(any chosen dye) dyed fabric, sprinkled with salt while still wet - we get interesting intricate patterns
wonderful stains gives any thick bleach (like domestos) - exposure time accordingly affects the intensity
And of course, you can always dye your fabric with any fabric dyes and acrylic paints.

To make the dyed thing shed less, add 2-3 tbsp to the dye solution. l. table salt, and in the last rinse water - the same amount of vinegar.