Doll on a frame. Create a wire frame

DIY frame doll.

"Stage 1
Creation small doll with hair made of plastic material in stages it looks like this:
1) sketch
2)frame+stand
3) sculpting
- heads
- hands
- other exposed parts of the body
+ refinement (grinding)
4) body building
5) painting
- faces
- other parts of the body
6) hair
7) suit
8)details
It is not necessary to do everything in this order - at your discretion.

Stage 2
We make the frame - this is the basis of the doll, and further problems arise from the shortcomings in its design, so this item must be approached very responsibly! When making a doll, you should never forget about your wonderful idea. But, how disappointing it is when you have to redo everything anew just because a couple of days ago you hurried to move forward and didn’t twist and foresee something here and there and your doll doesn’t stand on the stand, the center of gravity outweighs it and it falls sideways or back, and the arm falls off, and a wire sticks out of the neck, which you thought would not be visible under a layer of plastic or a cotton body ...

1) First you need to choose a wire that will be both flexible and durable. Let me remind you that our doll is 30-40 cm high, that is, not quite small and ordinary copper, aluminum wires will not work.

Option 1 - the so-called "knitting" wire. I found it at a construction site (but it is also sold in some specialized stores for builders), it can be different in cross section, but best option- 2.5-3 mm - it is flexible enough so that you have enough strength to twist it in the right places, but not springy and not brittle.
- Option 2 - thick copper wire with a diameter of 2.5 mm. It does not break even with great effort, it is flexible enough, but its trouble is that it springs. Doing so may break the plastic top layer. But in general, this option is quite suitable.

2) Next, we knit the skeleton of the doll. Personally, I make the whole doll at once. According to classical standards, the doll is made according to the details, the head and handles definitely come separately (many puppeteers make the doll in general as if from a designer). But since I'm telling you my version, you may tell another one yourself))))

Next, see the photos, and I will briefly tell you: we knit the knots stronger, because if the wire handles-legs are movable. the material you put on top will crack. The immobility of the fasteners is also important for the overall stability of the structure. Whether your doll is sitting, standing, or even hanging, its center of gravity must be thought out to the smallest detail. Because a beautifully made doll that does not want to stand is a sad sight :). Therefore, remembering that a doll is a toy man, do we remember where is the center of gravity of a real man? In the pelvis. It is there that it is worth weighting the doll, as well as increasing the feet if the doll is standing without a stand. And even if your doll is attached to some kind of platform, still the head should not be too heavy. And the whole weight of the doll should, as it were, flow down. The stability of the doll can also be enhanced with some additional elements(tree trunk, staff in hand, another figure nearby).

I additionally wrap the knots narrow ribbon from sheet copper. This holds them together tightly. Make hands. I especially love this business, although many people tremble just at the thought of this complex element of the doll. But I will talk about this in my next message to you.
The stand had to be very heavy to hold the doll in this position firmly on the plane, so I made it from several layers of drywall glued together. The doll is only inserted into the drilled hole for the time being for the convenience of work, and later it will be glued there with strong glue (I use Poxipol).




I can immediately say that as a result of further work in the above framework, the following problems were revealed: left hand turned out to be longer than the right, which was not noticeable when the arm was bent. I also had to increase the foot of the left leg and move the doll relative to the stand, so the pose became more correct.

Stage 3
Hands - we make a frame: an aluminum or copper plate (as in a set for chasing), a tin of beer cans is also suitable - for a palm. And the second element for the fingers is a thin, but strong wire, which I take from steel cables. Steel cables (sold in hardware stores, hardware stores, fishing stores)) if you look closely, they consist of many thin, strong wires, and that's what we need.
We assemble the structure as in the photographs, attach desired position fingers and the brush itself, in critical places we coat with some kind of super-glue for strength and, with a thread, fasten it to our main frame for one of the protruding wires. Now, if you did everything carefully enough, then after we go over the top with PVA glue - bumps and roughness, joints and seams will be smoothed out so that they will be completely invisible. PVA will also give elasticity and “rubberness” to the fingers, and even if the doll falls on them, nothing bad will happen to them.








What happens next:

PVA is liquid and if you apply it right away, it will drain in ugly drops. Apply, wait until it thickens a little and smear again.
After drying, PVA becomes transparent. The doll from above still has to be painted with acrylic using the technology that I can do. The porcelain effect comes from the varnish.
You can paint over PVA with PVA and gouache of the desired color (shade).
Stage 4
Building a body - I build up with cotton wool, although it is always advised to use a synthetic winterizer everywhere. I tried the synthetic winterizer, but it is too springy, without giving desired density. The synthetic winterizer layer goes on top of the cotton one, last of all, in order to give a neat appearance.
I just apply cotton wool in the right amount to right places and I sew with a thread (sometimes I just wrap it), in some places smearing it with Moment glue, where special accuracy is needed in shaping the silhouette. I simply wrap the arms and legs and other thin parts of the body with a thread so that the plastic material fits better on top, as it will slide along the wire. In some places, you can increase the volume with a thicker thread.



Stage 5- modeling of the head and other exposed parts of the body (+ processing and painting)
The plastic material in my doll is paperglue, but you can just as well use other self-hardening materials, as well as those baked in the oven, as it has been empirically verified that even with an already wound carcass, the plastic can be fired in the oven: cotton wool can only darken a little , but it does not have time to heat up to such an extent that it flares up and burns out (and if it is also wrapped in foil, then in general, I think it will be completely protected).

Paperclay is convenient in that even after it is completely dry, you can build up countless layers, bringing facial features to the ideal (in your mind), and also diluting it with water to a mushy state, smooth out bumps and smooth out sharp corners. That is, paperclay is for those who love the smoothness and roundness of silhouettes, they practically cannot fashion small details. But paperclay needs to be sanded, especially if you diluted it with water and smoothed out irregularities, since after drying it is not at all smooth, but rough (although this also turns out beautifully and is quite suitable for some effects). You need to sand it with a zero sandpaper, and polishing for nails (cap) is perfect for the final processing, it brings it to a perfectly smooth state, but this requires hellish patience.
The result is visible in the photo.

Coloring
Someone paints only the eyes and tints the face a little, personally I paint the whole face and other open parts of the body because I like decorativeness in the doll. I like to apply spray acrylic as a pre-coat, it additionally smoothes the surface and strengthens it, and evens out the color. But here accuracy is needed so that there are no streaks, otherwise you can ruin the whole doll in general, since these streaks are difficult to scrape off. Then you can use any paint, especially for paperclay. And watercolor, and gouache, and acrylic, and oil paint, who likes what. I use acrylic, sometimes I add soft shadows and blush. conventional cosmetics, I love sequins for even more decoration))
The last layer is varnish, which, again, each one is an amateur, to whom what. I found a very interesting matte varnish for acrylic. It's water soluble, doesn't smell and dries quickly unlike the pistachio polish I've used so far, and it doesn't leave that nasty yellow tint or streaks. Its strength is not so high, but it is quite enough to protect against moisture and dust.

My result is this:


I make eyes in a stupid way, I think it looks funny, but I like it, but for now I'm not going to deviate from what I like, although I think I fall out of all the classic requirements)))
I just insert colored transparent beads with a drop of color inside, and draw the pupil. But before that, I glue a loose ribbon into the eye socket, like cilia. And so, in general, the eyes are the basis for fantasy and the most easy way to the originality of your images. They can be drawn directly on the plastic formed under the eye. You can first make a base from a mother-of-pearl bead, which will play with highlights like a real white of the eye, and draw an iris with a pupil, you can insert ready-made purchased eyes, glass and plastic, you can make eyes from Fimo yourself.
Well, after varnishing, as everything dries, I sheathe the carcass with nylon (you can use supplex, but it seems rough to me))) and that's it, the basis for further creative work ready.
I sew clothes directly on the doll, you can’t take it off or put it back on. The so-called monofilament is very convenient in work (and in fact it is a thin transparent fishing line), the rest is up to you. Your skills and accuracy, and, most importantly, do not forget about fantasy and the image that you would like to create.
I make hair from all sorts of threads ... I tried to make it from doll hair, from 100% human hair, and I also tried those for dreadlocks. But due to the fact that the doll is decorative - real hair do not fit in any way - they look alien.
And the varnish is the German company Nershau (they have a logo with a multi-colored elephant with a brush on the tail), called silky-matte transparent in Russian acrylic lacquer(Klarlack seidenmatt), very nice!
pistachio, although it dries quickly, it has stickiness for another month !!!

see others master classes in this section.

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A skeleton doll is a doll with a soft fabric body on a flexible wire frame with a molded head, arms and legs. It's not that hard to make it. In this master class, I will show and explain in detail how and from what to make a good wire frame, what fabric is best to cover it, what can be used as a filler, how to correctly and securely attach the molded head, arms, legs.

Materials for making a frame doll

To create your own flexible wire frame doll, you will need the following materials:

• wire for the frame (preferably copper, but you can take any other);
• synthetic winterizer for giving volume to the body;
• knitted fabric for covering the body of the doll;
• threads, needles and pins - as we will have to sew;
• already molded, dried and painted head, arms and legs of the doll;
• tools: wire cutters, pliers, round nose pliers.

The foundation frame doll- flexible wire frame. For its manufacture, it is better to take a strong wire. I took a copper wire with a thickness of 4 mm in a braid. If it is not possible to get copper wire, then aluminum will do, and even steel. The thickness of the wire used depends on the value created doll. The larger the doll, the thicker and stronger the frame should be for her. My doll will be 35cm high so I use 4mm diameter wire. This will be enough for her. In some places, for additional strength of the frame, the wire is used in two (or more) additions and intertwined. When working with wire, it is better to use wire cutters, pliers and round nose pliers. Save your fingers! The winding of the frame must be tight and strong, the frame must be stable. The wire should not "spread". The better the frame is twisted, the stronger the doll will turn out. My dolls on wire frames can even stand on their own.

I wrap the doll's body with a well-stretched jersey. Advice for beginner puppeteers: better to take knitted fabric, which, when pulled, does not let the "shooter" from the cut edge. It is much more convenient to work with such a fabric, you do not have to patch numerous "arrows". How to check it? Pull harder on the cut edge different sides. If the edge went with arrows, such a fabric will not work.

So, let's start creating a doll.

The process of creating a frame doll

	First, we draw a diagram-drawing. This is necessary in order to make the frame exactly under the intended figure. Indeed, in the case of a skeleton doll, a wire frame performs the same role as a human spine. At the same time, we determine the proportions of the future doll. Will it look like a person, or will it be some kind of creature unknown to science with its own characteristics.
	Then, according to the resulting scheme, we lay out a piece of wire as shown in the photo and cut it off. This is our sample. We straighten the resulting sample and cut off three more of the same piece of wire. We should get 4 equal pieces of wire. Now we begin to fold and twist the frame.
	We take two pieces of previously cut wire, and begin to twist them together. Twist the wire tightly and tight enough. It is desirable to make the frame stronger, it depends on how long it will please you in the future.
	Photos of the stages of creating a puppet wire frame.
	This will be the doll's body.
	We outline the arms and legs. It is better to braid the intended hips with wire two or three times so that they are stronger and thicker.
	It is also better to wrap the torso with wire several times. It will be stronger.
	The same applies to the arms from the shoulder to the elbow.
	An additional braid will strengthen the junction of the arms with the torso.
	We form the basis of the "chest". So it will be easier for us to model the figure of the doll later.
	The wire frame for our doll is ready. Now we need to give it the necessary volume and thickness. This is done with the help of a synthetic winterizer.
	Before you start to form a puppet figure, you need to cut the existing synthetic winterizer with long strips of ribbons. The width of the stripes depends on the size of the doll. The larger the doll, the wider the stripes can be. For my doll 35 cm high, I made stripes 2-3 cm wide. Before cutting ribbons from synthetic winterizer, you need to check in which direction it stretches better and breaks faster. Ribbons should be cut across this weak side. So they will turn out stronger and it will be possible to wind more tightly. Wrapping the wire frame, we hold the padding tape with tension. The puppet "body" should be dense. How thick should the winding be? It depends on what figure your doll should have. A slender woman will need less synthetic winterizer, a plump fat woman, respectively, more. At the beginning of the winding, we fix the tip of the synthetic winterizer with a booth, which can then be pulled out. It is best to start wrapping the puppet frame from the limbs, from the arms or legs. On the "body" we fix the remaining "tails". We wrap the body itself with the latest.
	When wrapping the arms and legs of the frame, do not forget to leave wire "tails". We will attach stucco details to them!
	Wrapping the frame with padding polyester, we form the figure of the future doll. It can be made curvy or thin. If you are making a humanoid doll, then when forming her figure, you can peep into the anatomical atlas (or on photos of models in bathing suits). If this is an "animal unknown to science", then it all depends on your imagination.
	I got this body. Or rather, almost succeeded. Because now it needs to be sheathed with knitwear.
	What knitwear is better to take for a doll? The color depends on your idea. And I already mentioned the ability to "shoot arrows". My doll is a person, but her body will not be visible under clothes, so I didn’t find fault with the color of the fabric and just took what came to hand. I got a light jersey. Before you start cutting out the trim piece from the jersey puppet body it is necessary to check in which direction the fabric stretches better. Regarding the wire frame, the fabric should stretch well from top to bottom, and stretch poorly in breadth. This is necessary in order to make the puppet body as tight as possible. We put the "body" on the knitwear, with a wire "neck" we very carefully pierce a hole in the fabric, but not tearing, but pushing the fibers apart. If the fibers are allowed to break, you can get "arrows" in abundance, which will then be very problematic to sew up.
	We measure the required size piece, cut off all unnecessary. Vertically, the cut should reach the middle of the doll's hips.
	Since the knitwear stretches perfectly “from top to bottom” along the “growth” of the carcass, we will diligently pull it when sheathing the doll body and we will reach it just to the end of the legs. The length of the fabric for covering the doll body also depends on which part of the legs you are going to sculpt. Only the feet, or almost to the knee.
	Before you start sewing, we stretch the fabric and cut the figure with pins along the silhouette, indenting from the edge. We cut off the excess and sew it with a seam "over the edge", gradually getting rid of the pins.
	We make the seam neat, as small and dense as possible. And now we have a puppet body.
	Now let's talk about the stucco parts. I decided to sculpt doll legs almost to the knee, and arms to the elbow. Here is a photo of the legs. Take a closer look: in the center of each part there is a hole for the wire.
	And along the edge of each stucco detail that will be in contact with the "calf", a rather deep hollow is made. We will attach the tissue of the body along this hollow. The deeper the hollow, the better it will be possible to sheathe the joint with a cloth and hide the "fastening".
	Most often, for frame dolls, masters make a head immediately on the neck, rigidly fastening them. Sometimes shoulders are "added" to the neck, if, for example, it will be a lady in evening dress with neckline. In this case, the head is fixed on the frame in the same way as the arms and legs. I decided to complicate my task a little and mold a part of the torso so that I could dress the doll in a shirt that swings open on the chest. I made the chest with the neck in the form of a voluminous overlay on the frame, to which I tried to give some anatomical human features. In order for the doll to turn its head, I blinded the head separately from the neck, and I arranged the fastening of the head to the body like a fastening at articulated dolls. I made a neat hole in the neck, through which I connected the head with the torso with a strong rubber band.
	The head of my doll is hollow, the eyes can be inserted from the inside and periodically changed (by analogy with the BJD). The cranium is made with a lid. The head is connected to chest and a wire frame with an elastic band. Under the chest, the elastic band firmly covers the frame and is attached to it, and in the head it is fixed with a metal hook.
	We insert the wire tails of the frame into finished parts arms and legs, into the very holes in the center of each part. You can add glue inside these holes for greater strength in order to glue the frame wire with stucco details. We stretch the fabric from above and sew along the edge several times with strong threads, we melt the fabric into the hollows made. Thus, we will more firmly attach the stucco parts to the frame and close the joints, arrange them neatly. My doll has molded parts made of LaDoll plastic. When fixing the wire in the stucco part, I added a little raw LaDoll, diluted with PVA glue, into the holes of the handles and legs of the doll. The mixture is very strong and has good adhesive properties. If your doll's handles and legs are made of baked plastic, then a few drops of Moment glue (acetyl acrylate in small tubes) can be added to the holes for the wire. This will allow you to glue the frame with the stucco parts almost tightly.
	We dress our doll in suitable clothes. Our frame doll is ready! The arms and legs are bent, the head is spinning. However, it is not recommended to play too actively with such skeleton dolls and partly change their poses. The wire may not withstand, and it will be difficult to fix it.

I hope this master class will be useful to you and help you create your own skeleton doll. Believe me, it's very interesting!

Thank you for your attention and good luck in your work!

Dolls are not at all like ordinary toys, especially when it comes to designer dolls. self made. They do not just look like they are alive, because any master who creates these little masterpieces with his own hands puts into each doll the whole world: invents and thinks up the smallest details her future image, endows creation with a name, character, destiny and its own history. That is why all dolls are so original and unique.

If you want to become a part of the world of doll makers, try to learn from already recognized and venerable masters. Thanks to their tips, photo tutorials and master classes, you too can make beautiful doll with your own hands. The main thing is just to want and start inventing her image ...

Doll as a mirror of the soul of its author

Any creation begins with a plan, with a spark of an idea. Not all master classes can show this, but often the masters draw sketches of the future doll so as not to miss or forget anything. Depending on what image is planned, the material is selected. However, sometimes a master can work with only one material, trying all the time to improve and achieve the ideal in his creations.

Author's dolls are created in the most various techniques ah: they can be made of plastic, papier-mâché, fashioned from polymer clay or porcelain, sewn from fabric, have a soft body or a wire frame, etc. Today we will talk about frame dolls, for the manufacture of which a material such as paperclay is used.

In translation, its name means "paper clay". This material is a pliable mass created on a cellulose basis (it is worth distinguishing between a polymer-based material and a clay-based material). From it you can sculpt and model anything. Paperclay has many advantages over other plastics:

• it is lightweight and not subject to dust sticking during the sculpting process, like baked plastic;
• you can easily grind the product so that sandpaper will not leave scratches on it, and it will be possible to get rid of small flaws with a simple putty;
• paperclay is like a canvas that you can paint in any color you like. desired color, based on the range of the doll's costume and her image, it is also worth noting that paperclay can be easily painted with acrylic paints (their advantage over oil is that they dry faster).

True, this material is rather fragile, but this small drawback can be dealt with by observing some secrets of puppet masters.

For inspiration and search possible images look at the works of famous authors who have been creating dolls for a long time: Alisa Bazhenkova, Galina Shitova, Lyubov Lukyanchuk, Victoria Minenko, Yulia Nazarenko, Oksana Dyachenko and many others. Their dolls can be found in various famous art galleries, they are also often exhibited at thematic exhibitions and are purchased by avid collectors for private collections.

Of course, such author's dolls cost quite a lot, for example, the simplest specimens can be bought from 10,000-12,000 rubles, and if you want to get a custom-made doll in an outfit from some historical era, completely made by hand using various techniques, with expensive fabrics or accessories, then its cost can start from $ 100 and up.

From theory to practice, from idea to creation

Do not be discouraged and afraid that you will succeed like the masters, because they once also started small. Be prepared for not very successful instances at first, but believe that after numerous practical exercises You will definitely be able to make your dream doll with your own hands.

Paperclay frame dolls are presented in collections in the most unexpected images: gentle angels, mysterious fairies, nymphs, elves, fatal beauties and prim ladies, sophisticated dancers and graceful cocottes, harlequins, hatters, cute and naive children, etc. However, the manufacturing process will usually be the same.

1. After creating a sketch of the future doll and preparing all necessary materials you can get to work. Your initial task will be to make a frame and stand on which the doll can sit, stand or take the position that you have in mind.
2. Do-it-yourself frame can be made of wire. It is better to use thin steel or copper wire (copper is suitable with a cross section of 2.5-3.5). The wire frame is very important point for a frame doll, because if you make it fragile, then the doll will fall over, will not be able to stand on its feet. It is also worth carefully approaching anatomical features and the proportionality of the parts of the body of his creation, so that later they can be molded correctly.
3. So, according to the proportions, we rotate the skeleton from the wire. Get yourself some cuts different lengths so that you can not dwell on it in the process of work. You can take two approximately identical wires and bend them in half - so you get two segments that will have four tails at the bottom and a fold at the top. Form the neck and bend the tails perpendicular to it to make the shoulders. Then twist all the tails below - you will get a waist. Spread them at the bottom of the waist to the width of the shoulders and form a pelvis.
4. Next, you will need new pieces of wire to make the legs and arms. Bend one segment and fasten it in the pelvic area to the already obtained frame (you can use a thermal gun, medical plaster, electrical tape or the same wire for fastening). To get the handles out, take another piece, attach it to the shoulder area and bend it on both sides. Attach these handles to the overall frame.
5. Additionally, other parts of the body can be twisted from wire, such as breasts or ass for a doll. This is optional, but with them it will be easier for you to wrap the frame later.
6. There will be five wires in the legs. Wrap them in a spiral with wire of a smaller cross section so as not to twist them together. If the doll's arms or legs are longer than you wanted, you can cut off the excess.
7. Check body symmetry. Further work on its formation begins. Some craftsmen use for this winding with cotton threads impregnated with glue, others prefer batting or synthetic winterizer for volume, you can also take foil, toilet paper, and for the final winding - floral tape or a medical bandage with a PVA primer. We build up the body and sheathe it with knitwear. At this stage, it is worth deciding on the pose of your doll, since when the “carcass” dries and hardens, it is unlikely that it will be possible to change it.
8. Let's move on to sculpting the head and hands, as well as modeling the face. To do this, we need such a wonderful material - paper glue, which is called self-hardening plastic. However, it doesn't look like plastic. You can sculpt by building up any number of layers until you achieve ideal features faces. If you dilute it with water (to make a slurry), then you can smooth out the bumps or smooth out sharp corner. When you are done with sculpting, so that the head, face, and hands will look as they should, you will need to sand the surface with zero sanding (you can also take sanding caps at the end).
9. Paint all exposed parts of the body acrylic paint(very carefully, making sure that there are no drips). Then paint the doll's face, apply to her desired makeup, make eyes (you can use purchased ones, outline a bead, make them from Fimo, etc.), sponges, cheeks. You can add glitter at the end and apply the last layer of matte acrylic varnish - this will protect the doll from dust and moisture.
10. Eyelashes and hair are done at your discretion - you can take thread, dreadlocks, fur, special items for dolls or real natural wigs.
11. Clothes can be sewn directly on the doll, then it cannot be removed. If you want to make her a wardrobe, then you need to create outfits separately. Do not forget about shoes, hats, jewelry and other accessories necessary for your doll.

How to make a doll with your own hands? How to avoid embarrassing mistakes? What to make the head, arms, legs, torso from? These and countless other questions may come to the mind of a person who is just about to make a doll. It often happens that the simplicity of technology is confusing. In my master class, I would like to offer a fairly detailed sequence of actions that is convenient when creating a frame doll. Here are well-known truths, and some know-how. It is possible that while working on your doll, you will find other, simpler and more convenient techniques and methods. All in your hands! Create!

First of all, you need an idea. It will not necessarily be fully realized, but it is necessary to make a few sketches. Sometimes just to remember the details.

From a wire (steel is better: copper and aluminum are quite fragile), it is necessary to twist the doll's frame, its "skeleton" with the following additions: +8 cm to the length of the neck, +5 cm to the length of the arms to the hands. Mark on it the location of the elbows, knees. Sculpt from plasticine simple form for the head.

Using the papier-mâché technique, make a blank for the head. It should have at least 5 layers, each of which must be dried.

Using the same technique, make those parts of the doll's body that you want to see as solid (in this doll, these are the legs to the knees).

You can also make papier-mâché pens. But for this doll I make other handles.

Prepare fine sanding paper (“skin”), Prepare the legs and head blanks: carefully cut off the excess layers of paper from the legs with a breadboard knife, cut the head blank in half, remove the plasticine, glue the halves of the “skull” and dry.

Firmly pressing the pieces of sanding paper to the surface, sand the details.

Details should be smooth and pleasant to the touch.

Prepare stacks and other sculpting tools. In addition, we need toilet paper and paste.

From toilet paper and paste, knead the mass for modeling to the consistency of a stiff dough. From this mass we form small facial features.

We paste over the resulting relief with thin strips of newspaper, dry it, grind it.

With the help of any fillers (cotton wool, synthetic winterizer, batting) we form the volumes of the body.

We wrap the wire frame with filler, fixing it with turns of thread.

From thick copper wire(0.7 - 1.5 mm depending on the scale of the doll) we cut the segments for the fingers and palms with a small margin.

Sewing pieces of wire thin cloth and collect the segments in the palm of your hand.

With the help of the allowance laid at the beginning in the length of the arms, we fasten the bundle of wires assembled in the palm to the arm.

We prepare the material for lining the filler and smoothing the relief (coarse calico, knitwear, in this doll - felt).

We sew parts of the doll's body with pieces of felt.

We prime the legs and head with acrylic paints, prepare them for painting.

With a thin fabric for the "skin" we sheathe the areas that will be visible. These are thighs.

As well as the neck, shoulders and palms.

We select fabrics and accessories for a doll dress.

If the dress is planned to be non-removable, then its elements are sewn in layers, overlapping each other.

The sleeves are also made.

And the bodice of the dress.

From pieces of fur, taffeta and cord we make a boa and a muff.

Finally, you can paint the face. This could have been done earlier, but more often I finish the outfit so that I can already color scheme do beautiful make-up. For painting I use tempera and acrylic paints.

You can paint with anything, but it's better to add acrylic base or a drop of matte acrylic varnish to make the paints waterproof. In addition to the head, we also paint the legs.

Paint the face with thin brushes to make the work more accurate.

Dry the painted parts and cover with acrylic matte varnish. This will keep the painting from damage and give additional moisture resistance.

Then on shiny surfaces (eyes, lips) we apply transparent nail polish or glossy acrylic varnish. But for some reason, nail polish shines brighter.

We dress the doll with haberdashery - stockings, tights.

From segments satin ribbon let's make the hair.

We dissolve each segment, equal in length to the intended length of the hair (for short haircut be sure to give an allowance of 1 - 2 cm) not reaching 5 mm to the edge. It is for this unraveled area that you need to glue the hair, row by row.

In the end it will pretty haircut in early morning style.

Human eyelashes are also suitable for doll eyelashes if you want to achieve a theatrical effect. For a more natural look, you need to purchase special doll cilia. They are sold in the form of ribbons and one such ribbon is enough for several dolls.

In the case of human false eyelashes, take one and cut it in half. Glue these eyelashes on upper eyelid dolls.

The doll is almost ready, only the shoes remain.

Velvet cardboard, leather, taffeta, polyurethane heels and lace

You can make these simple sandals.

And you can go for a walk!

More detailed master class for the manufacture of a frame doll, see

There are many words, and almost all these actions are done within one minute. Further it will be easier.

2. We bend a new piece of wire (length 50-60 cm) in half, and more
once we bend, we look at the photo above. The fold is rounded, along the width of the pelvis. rounded
the fold will create a pubic articulation of the pelvis, the ponytails are future
doll legs. We combine the started puppet frame with a new element.
See photo below (left).

The height of the resulting design, excluding legs (from the chin of the doll to
pubic articulation - 3 doll heads. I have 15 cm. We connect both
details with electrical tape. Strong, secure, so that the height of the pelvis does not
changed. Can be fixed with wire, medical plaster,
hot air gun, etc. The main thing is that the details do not move alone
relatively different. We look at the photo on the left.

3. We make pens. We take a new piece of wire, bend it in half,
form the shoulders. To do this, we apply our new piece of wire to
frame in the shoulder area and bend the wire down on both sides.
Got "handles". Pictured above on the right.

The length is not yet fundamental, you can always bite off the excess
pliers. We fasten the part to the frame with electrical tape. Result on
a photo:

4. Next, I shape the chest. This is not a mandatory step, but its presence
facilitates the future winding of the frame. Take another piece of wire
(50-60 cm), we form a rounded fold (letter P, upper bar with
round ends). The width of the "letter P" is approximately 1.5 the width of the head
dolls. We bend the upper bar of the "letter P" by 1.5-3 cm. We get a figure,
shown in the photo (left).

Again, easier done than described. In the photo, the wire is uneven
laid down, the upper element is symmetrical on both sides. I fix the "chest" in
chest area. I fix with tape in the sternum and in the area
waist. We look at the photo.

The tails from this piece of wire will help in creating the doll's priests.
This is also an optional step, it helps me in winding. Just bend
wire in the shape of the buttocks, we breed them from the waist down to the legs and
we fix both tails on the legs, one on the left, the second on the right. On the picture
the ends of the wire are not fixed yet.

Here is what we have at this stage:

We now have five wires in the legs, their number can be changed in
depending on the wire you are using, height and weight
dolls, from the method of attaching it to the stand. I don't twist wires
among themselves, and wrap them in a spiral or with additional wire
smaller section, or tails of the wire remaining at
shaping the buttocks.

Let's try on the doll's head, bend the arms at the elbows first, look at the result.

Let's check the symmetry, you can form a curve of the spine.

Now the arms and legs are much longer than necessary. I find it easier to cut off the excess later.

And now I will bend the ends of the wire and wrap them with electrical tape so that they do not interfere with further work and didn't scratch.

We continue to work on the formation of the body of the doll.

To do this, we need an already made puppet frame, threads
reel any, floral tape or adhesive tape, scissors and
the most important thing is ta-da-da-dam - half a roll of toilet paper.

Do you love toilet paper as much as I do? This is one of the most
grateful and malleable materials. Also inexpensive and readily available
). Paper is needed the most ordinary, gray.

Why do I like to use paper for wrapping, and not
strips of synthetic winterizer, for example? I sometimes work with both sintepon and
sintepuh, and with a cord. When using toilet paper (hereinafter referred to as TB)
it is easier for me to gradually form the necessary volumes, the process is slow,
because paper layers are thin, all mistakes are easy to correct at once. AT
depending on the width paper strip is changing and involved
workspace. Using TB gives a fairly dense body, but
malleable to change posture. Yes, and pierce the carcass with a needle if desired
possible (for example, when decorating clothes or attaching accessories).

If you need a completely rigid structure, then a body made of TB can be
primed with PVA. Sometimes, after wrapping the TB with the final layer, I use
an ordinary medical bandage, which is primed with diluted PVA. TB can
combine with winding sintepon. In general, creativity is always
welcome))).

First, I prepare the material: I tear off strips of toilet paper
about a meter long. I put some of the strips aside, I fold some
in half several times and tear in the middle (I’m tearing, not
cut, I need torn edges so that the winding elements smoothly
passed into each other and there were no sharp breaks in the form). Desirable
make the outer edges of the paper also torn, at least cut off a couple of mm
arbitrarily. I forgot to do this and was wrong). Part of the bands ditch for 3
parts, part - by 4. Now that the materials are ready, you can proceed to
work.

• We take the frame, 2 prepared whole pieces of TB, crush
  each segment into a lump, fill the sternum with one lump
  future doll, the second - the pelvic region. We do this so that there is no
  voids inside the body and it did not "walk". We fill quite densely, with
  fix with threads if necessary. Photo result.



• I start winding from the doll's waist. I wind whole segments of TB in
  one direction. Pretty tight. If necessary, I fix with threads,
  when I move from one piece of TB to another. We look at the photo.



• Then I wrap my shoulders crosswise several times, again
  I go through the chest area. Now I am already using
  pieces of paper torn in half. A photo:



• We wrap the handles. Depending on the size of the doll
  you will need segments of TB either torn into 3 or 4 parts.
  I start winding from above, grabbing the shoulder and chest (I do
  one or two turns along the torso, then I turn to the handle). winding
  paper in a spiral, tight, stretching the paper in the process of winding.
  The main thing is not to overdo it so as not to tear the paper))). I wind up
  of the place where, according to my plan, the stucco part of the hand will begin, I continue
  winding in opposite direction. It is important that the layers of paper
  tightly attached to each other. The coils go obliquely, slightly
  overlap. Do not forget that the hand has a certain relief, winding
  must repeat it. We don't want to get two sticks on the sides
  torso. At locations muscle tissue number of layers
  windings can be increased (walk the paper back and forth several times
  one place). We always fix with threads, if necessary. Don't forget
  about elbows. If the doll is static and its handle must be bent,
  you can wrap a lump of TB in the elbow area and fix it with threads.
  Intermediate results in the photo.



• I continue to work with the chest. I wind lumps of TB in
  chest area with ribbons of paper, fix with threads. I form the back
  similarly, only instead of wads of paper I use folded
  several layers cut TB. Pay attention to the area of ​​the shoulder blades,
  so that the back does not turn out to be too hollow or hunchbacked. Correcting
  curvature of the spine, if needed.



• Next I work on bottom body. Legs are formed
  similar to handles. I have a molded part of the leg above the knee, so
  I only do the hips. If you need to form a leg below the knee,
  We act similarly to working on pens. Don't forget the muscles
  knees. The leg should also not look like a stick. Ponytails
  We fix the paper with threads, if necessary. Wrapping my legs, I, as in
  in the case of the arms, I start with one or two turns in the pelvic region. it
  helps to better fix the paper. This is how we avoid scrolling
  paper around its axis in the already wound state. And don't forget
  that the paper is always wound in the same direction on one
  limbs. On the other limb - better in the opposite, but also all
  cuts in one direction! Otherwise, each subsequent segment
  paper will tend to unwind the previous one and the winding will fail
  dense and hard.


• In conclusion, we work with the pelvis. We form the buttocks, tummy,
  groin area. Where possible, we use wads of paper tied
  stripes and fastened with threads. Where it doesn't work, just
  we continue wrapping with TB tapes half a roll or a third wide. At
  we capture the winding upper part thighs, draw paper between
  legs of the doll, wrap the paper around the waist.


• We look closely at what is obtained and correct those
  areas that do not suit us. We fix the tails of the paper
  threads. We look at the photo. Here the tips of the TB stick out, they do not interfere with me,
  but they can be glued. The carcass will look more aesthetically pleasing.


• 


• Please note that the winding of the doll's limbs from top to bottom becomes
  thinner. I do it on purpose. While trying on the arms and legs, I
  I will adjust the length-width of their winding. It's easier for me to increase the missing
  volumes than to reduce the existing ones))).


• When the wrapping of the doll's body with paper is completed, I carry out the final
  winding with either floral tape or bandage, followed by
  primer with diluted PVA or slip, or with a medical plaster.
  You can prime the carcass directly from TB. Here I show the winding
  floral tape. The color is bright for contrast. Work,
  of course, it is better with the color of the ribbon that is present in the suit. Or
  use skin tones, can be white. It is easier to wind in
  expansion side. That is, from the waist - to the pelvis, from the waist - to the chest
  cage, from the knee to the groin, etc. We wind tightly, but not overtightening.
  Overlapping, slightly oblique. Hands - go down, come back. Shoulders -
  first crosswise, then with a ribbon we pass around the torso a few
  once. Adjust body position if necessary. I do not fix my hands firmly and
  I don’t wind it, I’ll look for the right position later. If the position of the doll
  you know for sure, wrap the shoulder joint tightly several times until
  immobility.


• 


• Describe it for a long time, but do it easily and fairly quickly. For me it
  one of the most pleasant and meditative stages of work))). You can always
  play with volume and reliefs and on the basis of the same frame
  get completely different doll carcasses.